From peak to page: one woman’s story of adventure and purpose
“Echoes from Mountains of the Moon” by Dr. Lilly Ajarova
To mark International Women’s Day, I celebrate an extraordinary Ugandan woman: Dr. Lilly Ajarova, a lifelong champion of wildlife, conservation and tourism who has documented her most inspiring adventure – hiking to the 5,109 metre glacial summit of the Rwenzoris’ Margherita Peak – in Echoes from Mountains of the Moon.
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, I adore a travelogue! Lilly’s account ticks all the boxes for me; it’s a story of adventure, setting a personal goal and experiencing the wild in all its fabulousness!
Lilly’s book is endorsed by a number of eminent conservationists and adventurers:
Through Lilly’s eyes, you will marvel at the breath-taking beauty of the everchanging landscape of the fabled Mountains of the Moon. You will witness the extraordinary courage and endurance of this remarkable Ugandan woman as she conquers exhaustion and altitude sickness to reach the summit of Africa’s third-highest mountain. In Echoes from Mountains of the Moon, Lilly Ajarova highlights the urgent need to protect this awe-inspiring scenery and preserve the culture of the mountain people for generations to come. Echoes from Mountains of the Moon is a very inspiring story. It demonstrates the resilience of a woman with the heart of a lion. I wholeheartedly encourage you to read it and share its message with your friends.
Jane Goodall, PhD, DBE. Founder, Jane Goodall Institute & UN Messenger of Peace
People tackle the Rwenzori in different ways. Some simply climb to the top and then come down. Job done. Others, like Lilly Ajarova, immerse themselves in the mountain and absorb its unique meld of history, botany, meteorology, geology, hydrology, economics, tradition, culture, religion, warfare, wildlife, conservation and more. Lilly has been to the top of the Rwenzori and her keen eye has taken in all of the above facets of this fascinating massif. To her further credit, she has chosen to share her observations with us in Echoes from Mountains of the Moon. Of course, much has been written about the Rwenzori. Since Henry Stanley chronicled the first known ascent by his lieutenant, William Stairs in 1888, a veritable library has accumulated on the subject. In addition to their common theme, all of these preceding volumes have something else in common; all are written by men. Lilly’s memoir is, to the best of my knowledge, the first published offering from a female, which is all the better for it. To the shelves of books penned by (white) males, we can add a fresh and wide-ranging account by a Ugandan woman facing her greatest challenge. For the Rwenzori is not a realm to be entered lightly; it demands as much from the climber, in terms of physical and mental commitment, as it gives by way of its myriad rewards. Immerse yourself in the Rwenzori with Lilly Ajarova. Then – for how can you fail to be inspired by her tale – to climb this remarkable mountain yourself.
Andrew Roberts, Author, Mountaineer & Conservationist
A hike with a purpose
Lilly’s journey to the summit of the Rwenzoris was not just a personal triumph – her moments of doubt and utter exhaustion were so relatable – but also a call to action: nowhere is climate change more clearly visible than on the melting glaciers of Margherita Peak, Uganda’s highest point at 5109 metres. With the support of UNDP, Lilly and her team undertook this trek to highlight the threats to the Rwenzoris and the communities that depend on it.
This memoir chronicles that journey—a deeply personal one—that I hope will inspire you to visit these majestic mountains and support efforts to conserve their delicate ecosystems. Climbing the Rwenzoris is not for the faint of heart. The trails wind through lush forests, steep bamboo groves, and misty heather zones before the glaciers reveal themselves—both awe-inspiring and humbling. It is a path filled with challenges, both physical and mental.
Dr Lilly Ajarova, Author “Echoes from Mountains of the Moon”
Why the Rwenzoris matter
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park spans 996 square kilometres. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Ramsar site (for its wetlands) and an Important Bird Area (a site of international importance), being home to a remarkable diversity of “Albertine Rift endemics,” species that are uniquely found in this particular corner of our world. Protecting this ecosystem is crucial for biodiversity. Everything in nature is interconnected, including our own survival. The pandemic and the spread of zoonotic diseases (exacerbated by population growth and climate change) have brought this into sharp relief.
A personal note from Diary of a Muzungu
Lilly and I first met in 2009 when we worked with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. She was a director of UCF, and the CEO of Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary; I was UCF’s marketing development manager, and a VSO volunteer. In a blog post from 2021, “The euphoric Rwenzoris” on Diary of a Muzungu, Lilly shared her personal feelings about climbing Uganda’s highest peak. Her words resonated deeply with me and I was honoured to be invited to help edit her book.
A celebration of conservation and tourism
The book launch, at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s poolside, was a gathering of Uganda’s tourism champions and friends, as well as the team who climbed with Lilly and shared her passion – and exhaustion! – after this tough nine-day expedition. Coincidentally, the event also marked the end of her tenure as CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board, a position she held for six years.
Where to buy “Echoes from Mountains of the Moon”
For those eager to read Lilly’s inspiring journey:
- Hardback copies are available at Aristoc Bookshop in Kampala at UGX 80,000.
- The e-book is available on Amazon.com
- You can also order directly through Lilly’s website.
I know from my own experience climbing Mount Elgon (at 4321 metres) how demanding these multi-day mountaineering hikes are. (I still want to climb the Rwenzoris but reading Lilly’s experience is sobering and a reminder of the many months training you need to put in).
I recently did the one-day hike of Karungura Peak, climbing over a thousand metres above Bundibugyo, into Rwenzori Mountains National Park and down towards Fort Portal. It was tough! For most of the six-hour hike, we climbed. (At least that’s how it felt!) For the next two days, every part of me ached: my feet, my hips, my thighs, my everything! One day was enough. Could I possibly keep going the next day, and the next and the next, as a climb to Margherita or Weissmann’s, for example, demands? Our Karungura hike coincided nicely with Lilly’s book editing project; the two experiences have made me even more curious about exploring this incredible mountain, its waterfalls, fifty lakes and funky vegetation.
Lessons from the mountains for women everywhere
Lilly’s story is a reminder that real change starts with individuals who care enough to act. Whether we support conservation initiatives, try to reduce our carbon footprint, or simply keep physically and mentally fit so we can support the people around us, we all have a role to play. On this Women’s Day, let’s celebrate Lilly’s achievements by taking steps – big or small – to protect the wild places and its creatures that she so passionately champions.
Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know [UPDATED]
As a rule, all Ugandan tourist visas and work permits must be applied for online BEFORE you travel using the official Uganda visa application portal.
Which nationals need to pay for a visa to enter Uganda?
Click here to see the “List of visa exempt nationalities. If your nationality is on the list, you don’t need to apply for a visa to enter Uganda.
How to apply for Ugandan tourist visa?
The Ugandan government’s online electronic visa application system is mandatory for applying for all Ugandan visas, including: entry permit (work permit), Uganda tourist visa, multiple entry visa, transit visa, East Africa tourist visa, student pass, diplomatic visa, official visa, special pass, Certificate of Residence and dependent’s pass.
Requests for tourist visas, passes and work permits (E-Visa and E-permits) should be completed via this link on the official Uganda immigration website.
Applicants for all immigration services such as visas, work permits and passes will be required to apply and pay online, and an electronic notification / authorisation will be sent to the applicant before proceeding to the preferred Entry Point e.g. Entebbe International Airport or the nearest Uganda Mission abroad for the visa to be issued. Uganda has 22 official ‘points of entry’ border posts. Entebbe International Airport has the majority of tourist arrivals, followed by Katuna / Gatuna (Rwanda) and Busia and Malaba (Kenya border).
Are you travelling to Uganda? Apply for a Ugandan visa online
Apply at least ONE MONTH prior to travel. (However, some applications are approved in hours, others days, some not at all… if you apply too early, your visa approval may even get cancelled and you’re unlikely to get your money back).
Be prepared. You need to complete the online application in one sitting. The online application does not allow you to save your information and return to the screen later.
NOTE: COVID-19 vaccination certificates and negative PCR test results are no longer required. HOORAY. For more info on the exact documents needed, according to the type of visa you are applying for, go to the Uganda immigration web site general information page.
If you’re applying for a single entry Uganda tourist visa, you’ll need to upload:
- Passport bio-data page (with validity of at least 6 months)
- Recent passport-size photo e.g. US or UK passport photo size (not Canadian size, which is larger, apparently).
- Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate. Read Frequently Asked Questions from travelers about Yellow Fever in Uganda – with advice from a tropical medicine doctor.
- Return ticket. Return ticket / tour itinerary. In reality, not all travellers have these so an alternative is to write and upload a letter detailing your onward travel plans.
The files you upload can’t be bigger than 250kb (that’s pretty small!) so resize all your docs before you start the application process. Only PDF, JPEG, PNG and BMP files are accepted.
The Uganda immigration web site details the fees for applying for Ugandan visas online.
Pay online for your Uganda tourist visa. Only Mastercard and Visa are accepted online and there is a 3% surcharge for online payment. In 2025, the single entry Uganda tourist visa fee is $50. Expect to pay $1.50 admin fee. For more info about the tourist visa, work permit and pass fees, the website of Africa Immigration Advisory Services, Kampala is very helpful.
When you complete the visa application process, make a note of your application number! You may need this in case you have to follow up. Otherwise, click here to retrieve your Uganda visa application ID but some people say this hasn’t always worked.
The decision taken on the online application (“yes” or “no” on whether you’re coming to Uganda) will be sent via email. Assuming you get the go-ahead, your visa approval letter will be sent as an email attachment. You’re advised to print this travel authorisation (showing a barcode) and keep this with your travel documents (although it is not mandatory apparently). However, Ugandans do love printed papers so print everything you can, just to avoid unforeseen delays.
Present the barcode at point of entry [that will be “Entebbe Airport” if you’re entering Uganda by air] together with a valid passport / travel document of “not less than 6 months validity” and you should get your tourist visa. You can get a maximum of 90 days in one go; if you want that, say so, otherwise you may just be given two weeks for example. Present the barcode at point of entry [that will be “Entebbe Airport” if you’re entering Uganda by air] with your valid passport of “not less than 6 months validity” and you should get your tourist visa. You can get a maximum of 90 days in one go; if you want that, say so, otherwise you may just be given two weeks for example. Visitors to Uganda can stay for up to 6 months on a single entry tourist visa, without being charged anything extra. To get an extension on the days written in your passport at Entebbe, go to one of the immigration offices, for example Jinja Road in Kampala.
NOTE: “the travel authorization [approval] letter does not guarantee entry into Uganda. Travelers will be subjected to secondary verification where necessary before personalization,” meaning it is not 100% guarantee you will be issued a visa at the airport / border / Uganda mission (but you probably will, unless you’ve been very naughty indeed).
For answers to Frequently Asked Questions, go to the Uganda immigration Help page.
As you’ll see from many comments below, lots of visa applications get stuck at the “pending” stage. This is normally because the applicant has forgotten to send in one of the documents, or immigration are requesting more information (but frequently aren’t clear what that is!) There have been lots of complaints about emails not being answered but Uganda immigration do reply fairly quickly via their Facebook page. If you’re telephoning Uganda Immigration, the country code for Uganda is +256.
The Directorate for Citizenship and Immigration’s call centre is open from 7am to 7pm Uganda time (with plans for it to be operated 24 hours at some stage). Call +256 417 102600 or toll-free 0800 199004 / 0800 199003 in Uganda.
In addition to visa requirements, every traveller has to consider health-related protocols. These are subject to change. For what to expect when passing through Uganda’s international airport, read Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport (updated regularly). I also have a post about the East Africa Tourist Visa and a post on Rwanda’s visa on arrival.
Any feedback or questions about Ugandan tourist visas? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues, visitors to Uganda and advice from an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, or moving to Uganda, I’m your woman! I’ve been advising travellers and expats on everything Uganda-related for many years. What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
Celebrate 90 years of sailing on Lake Victoria
Where better to spend a HOT Saturday than on the shores of Lake Victoria? 🌊🌊🌊 Programme of events for the next week 😎
90 years ago a group met on the shores of Lake Victoria and decided to start a sailing club. This Saturday 22 February, you are invited to celebrate Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club’s ‘Granite’ Jubilee 90th Anniversary at the club in Kaazi.
A full day of activities is planned – for the whole family – starting with the Recycled Raft Races on the lake (an annual event for kids) and Exhibitions about Recycling from 9AM. The afternoon’s activities include tree planting and the official opening ceremony of the Granite Jubilee at 3PM. (Live music 
and barbecue 
will follow until late, but tickets for the evening event are now sold out).
Celebrate the club’s history, hang out with friends, sign up to a sailing course(?) and learn more about innovative recycling ideas to combat plastic pollution…
Entry fees for the morning’s Recycled Boat Races and Recycling Exhibition / Market
10k adult & 5k child (with additional fees for snacks and drinks at the bar). The event is open to the public, but please book in advance with Kiwanda Emmanuel +256 755 159732.
For bookings & enquiries
Kiwanda Emmanuel +256 755 159732 can advise on all bookings (EXCEPT for the dinner and quiz night at Makindye Country Club. For that event, see the number on the flyer).
Note: the party is only the start of a full week of celebrations!
- 📢 Saturday February 22: Recycled raft race and Granite Jubilee Party at Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club, Kaazi, Busabala [EVENING EVENT SOLD OUT]
- 📢 Sunday February 23: Granite Jubilee Trophy Race at VNSC
- 📢 Tuesday February 25: Dinner and quiz night at Makindye Country Club
- 📢 Weds / Thurs February 26 – 27: Sailing Clinic with Olympian Mickey Beckett (limited spots, pre-registration required)
- 📢 Friday February 28 – Sunday March 2: Uganda Laser Open 2025
The Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club hope you will join them for these events BUT remember to book in advance 😎
Hanging up the boots for the holidays – 2024’s best bits
A big THANK YOU from Diary of a Muzungu & the East Africa Travel Podcast!
As we “hang up our boots” for the holidays, here’s a:
💚 Thank you to everyone who reads Diary of a Muzungu. In 2024, the blog has focused on practical travel advice, with my creative energy channelled into 🎧 the East Africa Travel Podcast. Season 1 (20 episodes so far) has been a labour of love – and a lot of fun too!
🎁 Thank you to everyone who has been part of the podcast: my fascinating guests* and my listeners. I’ve loved all your feedback 💚 please keep it coming!
🎁 To everyone I trained with this year: what a great learning experience! (I now train tour operators in sustainable tourism, in addition to digital marketing).
🎁 A special shout-out to my friend, Prof. Wolfgang Thome, for sharing my podcasts and stories on his website and to my support team: my awesome sound recordist Bryan Kisembo and trusted web developer of many years, Sam Risbond.
In festive newsletter tradition, highlights of 2024 included:
🐘 Proofreading the latest edition of Andrew Roberts’ fantastic Uganda Safari book. I devoured every page of hand-written maps, historical photos – and his irrepressible humour!
🧾 I was delighted when the Uganda Tourism Board invited me to join the judging panel at Uganda’s Sustainable Tourism Awards at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo. Thank you Lilly Ajarova! Here’s my story about the winners.
🔥 World Tourism Day celebrations in Kasese were HOT HOT HOT 🔥 The midday sun shone on the shiny new Equator Monument at Kikorongo, Queen Elizabeth National Park.
🗻 My work year ended at the foot of Mount Elgon – training staff from tourism projects from all corners of north / eastern Uganda.
🌊 Mombasa and Diani are two of the Kenyan destinations we’ll be featuring in Season 2 of the East Africa Travel Podcast, loading in 2025: turtle conservation along Diani’s beaches, and an epic journey from Kampala to Nairobi and Mombasa (think: bus, SGR train, ferry and a tuk tuk ride through Old Town Mombasa!)
🎙A feature in the Sunday Monitor was a great boost for my podcast: What people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast. (Thank you Tony Musho!)
🌍 Looking ahead, 2025 kicks off with a research trip for Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari, a guide I’m updating for the third time. 🦁
NEW TO DIARY OF A MUZUNGU? … Start your journey < here > with travel inspiration, useful resources (travel health, tourist visas, National Park entry fees, Travel Directory and more, all regularly updated).
🎄 🎁 Thank you for being part of my 2024. Wishing you an adventurous New Year!
As always, feel free to contact the Muzungu.
Entebbe Airport essentials: baggage & tax
What travelers need to know about revised baggage and tax policies at Entebbe Airport.
Planning a trip to Uganda or returning home after some time abroad? Whether you’re a first-time tourist, a returning resident or expat, or basummer visiting family and friends, it’s essential to be aware of the revised baggage clearance procedures at Entebbe International Airport, announced in July 2024. Here’s a rundown of what you need to know to avoid any surprises at the airport. The updated baggage clearance procedures are crucial for all travelers to understand, especially when it comes to bringing gifts or second-hand items.
Looking for the latest travel health advice at Entebbe Airport? Click here.
The Muzungu adds: when expats travel back to their home country, we often bring back little treats that you just can’t get in Uganda! Marmite, crumpets, dark chocolate digestive biscuits, and Coleman’s English mustard are high on my list! You might not be aware, but we’re not supposed to bring in second-hand laptops, for example, that well-meaning relatives would like to donate to a worthy cause. I’ve never had any problems with customs at Entebbe, but I know they keep a watchful eye on Ugandans who return home with bulging suitcases!
All passenger baggage is scanned at Entebbe Airport after passport control. “If scanner images show any items concealed/hidden, the baggage will be subjected to physical examination by a Customs Officer in the presence of the passenger.” Here’s what you need to know:
Key changes to baggage allowances at Uganda’s Entebbe Airport (and their tax implications)
No. 1. Higher allowances – better baggage values for travelers:
- The allowable limit for the value of passenger baggage has been increased from USD 500 to USD 2000.
- Important notes: This allowance is for personal use only and does not apply to gifts, items for sale, or goods you plan to distribute. This allowance applies to passengers who have been outside Uganda for more than 24 hours.
- The exemption does not apply to goods sent by others for delivery to someone else.
No. 2. Declaring to URA? Bring receipts:
Passengers must declare their baggage to URA officers and provide authentic receipts in the names of the traveling passenger, confirming the value of the items.
No. 3. Know before you go: info for traders
- “Dutiable” goods exceeding 50kg in commercial value will be transferred to the cargo terminal for customs clearance. Here, traders will have to use their tax identification numbers.
- Included in this category are phones and phone accessories, shoes, perfumes, vehicle spare parts, and IT equipment.
No. 4. Be aware of prohibited and restricted items
- Prohibited items include used fridges, second-hand computers/laptops, TVs (and even second-hand underwear!). You may ask: why are used laptops prohibited yet Ugandan schools in rural areas can’t afford to buy new ones? According to the URA, “Used computers were prohibited in the Finance Act of 2009. This is largely aimed at protecting the environment. When the government banned used computers, it dropped the import duty to 0% for new laptops.”
- Restricted items require clearance before you enter Uganda. Examples include drones and animal products or items related to wildlife. Penalties for importing or exporting wildlife products (elephant or hippo ivory, teeth, animal skins, pangolin scales, and more) are very high.
No. 5. Booze and smokes: Duty-free allowances explained:
Call this a party? Hmmm. You’re allowed to bring in the following without paying duty:
- Spirits: Up to 1 litre
- Wine: Up to 2 litres
- Perfumes and eau de toilette: Up to 250ml
- Tobacco/cigarettes: Up to 250 grams
No. 6. Kuli kayo! Welcome home: What you can bring tax-free as a returning resident:
- Ugandan residents returning after at least one year abroad can bring personal and household effects without paying taxes, provided the items were used in their previous residence. These individuals will also clear their items through the cargo terminal.
- Prohibited items will be forfeited “after payment of the applicable penalty.”
No. 7. Pay taxes quickly (to avoid the cargo terminal):
- Passengers who arrive with goods they need to pay duty on must pay the relevant taxes within two hours to avoid congestion. Non-compliance will result in the baggage being transferred to the cargo terminal.
This information is based on my summary of an article published by the Uganda Revenue Authority.
I haven’t listed all restricted or prohibited items because I’m not an expert (just a regular traveller who likes sharing a few tips). For more information about customs, read URA Customs FAQs.
I regularly travel through Entebbe Airport. If you have any questions about visas, travel health – or any other aspect of travel to Uganda, you’ll find this page very helpful.
Looking for a tour operator or lodge? Check out my travel directory.
How much does it cost to track mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
How much are gorilla tracking permits in Uganda and Rwanda?
A gorilla tracking permit includes entry into the National Park, experienced ranger guides who will escort you while sharing unlimited gorilla facts, one hour with the gorillas themselves and – most importantly – bragging rights in the form of a gorilla tracking certificate (in Uganda) and endless selfies (wherever you track!) Woo hoo!
The permit is just one part of the equation of course: you also need to cover transport, accommodation, meals, tips and souvenirs…
How much are Uganda gorilla tracking permits?
| Uganda gorilla tracking fees – (Bwindi & Mgahinga) July 2024 – June 2026 | Gorilla tracking permit | Gorilla habituation experience |
|---|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 800 | USD 1,500 |
| Foreign resident (expats) in Uganda | USD 700 | USD 1,000 |
| Rest of Africa | USD 500 | USD 1,000 |
| Ugandans & EAC citizens | UGX 350,000 | UGX 750,000 |
UWA’s price list or “conservation tariff” covers: National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees; gorilla / chimpanzee tracking; boat rides; game drives; nature walks; volcano and mountain hiking, and biking. Prices are for international tourists (foreign non-residents), foreign residents (expats) and East African citizens, including Ugandans (domestic tourists). Read a summary of UWA’s fees for 2024 to 2016 (with links to some of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite blogs).
How much are Rwanda gorilla tracking permits?
UPDATE 2024: Until 31 December 2024, Rwandans, expats and all Africans can track gorillas in Rwanda at the discounted prices listed above.
| Rwanda gorilla tracking fees (2024 fees) | Gorilla tracking permit |
|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 1,500 |
| Foreign residents in Africa (expats) including Rwanda | USD 500 |
| African citizens | USD 500* |
| Rwandans & EAC citizens | USD 200* |
- After repositioning itself as an upmarket tourist destination, in May 2017 Rwanda increased gorilla tracking permits to $1500 each, regardless of whether you were an international tourist, expat or East African residents. That sounds like a bum deal for local people (but RDB argue that only a tiny percentage of permits were sold to locals).
- Rwanda has an exclusive package for tourists who would like to book a whole family of gorillas. Priced at US$ 15,000, the group get access to exclusive personalised tour guiding.
- Visitors to Rwanda who track the gorillas and visit Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Parks for a minimum of three days will qualify for a 30% discount on their gorilla permit.
- International visitors attending conferences in Rwanda are eligible for a 15% discount on gorilla permit fees if tracking the gorillas before or after their conference.
How much are DRC gorilla tracking permits?
Gorilla tracking permits in the DRC are very cheap by comparison. Congolese citizens have preferential pricing but other East Africans don’t.
What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
For the best value for money, most visitors to East Africa will combine gorilla trekking with a Safari before or after their trip.
Booking your gorilla permits yourself and travelling by public transport is possible but there are pitfalls to be aware of. The downside of making your own arrangements is that you can sometimes end up incurring more costs. If, for example, you miss your bus or it breaks down (not uncommon) you might miss your gorilla trek. Permits are non-refundable, meaning if you arrive a day late, then you will have missed your slot. Most visitors therefore travel on a scheduled group tour or book their own driver and vehicle, usually through a tour company, such as one of the registered companies featured in my Travel Directory.
The other pitfall to avoid when arranging gorilla tracking yourself in Uganda is booking accommodation that is a long way from the gorilla family you are tracking. You will have to be up very early on the morning of your tracking so you want to stay as close as possible to the park headquarters. (Uganda’s gorilla families are spread several hours apart).
The average mid-range three day gorilla safari costs approximately $1200, depending on the number of people in your group. The cheapest way to see the gorillas is to travel on a scheduled overland trip during low season. If a tour is advertised to include gorilla tracking then the cost of the permit should be included in the price you are quoted, but do read the small print carefully!
A top of the range luxury gorilla Safari may cost $3 – $5,000 per person and may include fly-in options and five-star accommodation.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the links in the
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast
“Novel ways a podcast is promoting Ugandan tourism”
Dear Reader – and Listener? How is your life? As we say in UG.
Thank you to everyone who’s listened to the first episodes of The East Africa Travel Podcast. It’s fantastic to hear all your feedback!
Listen on Diary of a Muzungu – just click here 😉
“It’s amazing to hear the sounds of the jungle while I wait for my train in Lisbon” said my Portuguese friend Ana.
What to listen to first? 🎧
- The 3 minute Trailer. Recognise the wild sounds at the start?
- Episode 1 Welcome to my world! A glimpse of life at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale National Park.
- Episode 2 Chimps, elephants and how I ended up in Uganda. Who am I? Which guests am I hosting? And how can I help you?
- In episode 3, the Nnaabagereka, Queen Sylvia of Buganda tracks the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
- In episode 4, Uganda’s sports tourism ambassador and British TV personality Rob Walker Tickles a rhino and bows to the Shoebill.
- In Episode 6, I am fascinated by every word uttered by primatologist / anthropologist Prof Richard Wrangham!
- In episode 9 guidebook author Philip Briggs and I are high up in the birdhide at Sunbird Hill.
- In episode 10, we watch “Warring warthogs on a walking safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park. I stay at the luxurious Honey Bear Camp, the only private concession in Kyambura Game Reserve (Wildplaces)
- In episode 7, I’m mesmerised by powerful Maasai music and uplifting conversations about sustainable tourism at the Original Maasai Lodge in Tanzania.
- In episode 11, hear why ecologist and field researcher Chris Ketola loves snakes and adores bats!
- In episode 13, entomologist Dr Michael Ochse and I examine the 100s of moths and insects buzzing around our heads one dark night!
- In episodes 15 and 16, I spend time with renowned conservationist and “self-confessed gorillaholic who’s been obsessed for 40 years!” Time with the irrepressible Ian Redmond OBE is always a learning experience.
- In Episode 20, listen out for baboons during my live chat with Pam Cunneyworth of Colobus Conservation of Diani, Kenya.
- And in between all the scintillating conversations… it’s just you and me, ambling along in nature, taking in the rich backdrop of birds and wildlife… you never know what we will hear and see together.
- Season 1 comprises 20 podcast episodes, all here on Diary of a Muzungu and all podcast directories. Season 2 is loading…
- Where next? Jinja in Uganda; Mombasa and Diani in Kenya; news from Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo and the Sustainable Tourism Summit in Kenya – and Kibale Forest, of course!
- Who are my next guests? Harriet Owalla (Kenyan travel journalist), Ikechi Uko (Nigerian and West African tourism guru), Rowan Martin (World Parrot Trust), Diani Turtle Watch … and many more lined up.
The Muzungu has a request! 🙏🏻
I would LOVE you to:
- Listen to the podcast’s 3 minute Trailer + at least one episode
- Share the podcast with your friends and everyone interested in travel in / to East Africa and the natural world
- Leave a Review + add a comment.
- Why? Because reviews + ratings mean my podcast will be shown to a wider audience. Help me tell more people about this fabulously beautiful corner of our world.
Are you on Spotify?
Then click here + listen + Follow + write a short review ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐😎
Do you listen on Apple Podcasts?
Go to the Apple Podcasts Show description to write a review ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ and we’ll be friends forever 😍
The East Africa Travel Podcast is hosted by Charlotte Beauvoisin, AKA Nagawa🐒 author of Diary of a Muzungu
Thanks to everyone who’s listened to the first episodes! Season 2 is loading… got an idea for a podcast guest or topic? Send me a message.
New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here
Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! Visiting this blog for the first time? Here are popular pages I just know you’ll like.
*Launched in 2024* The East Africa Travel Podcast is my biggest project in a long time. Tune in for the sounds of nature, inspiring conversations with award-winning travel writers and conservationists (and strictly positive vibes). Read what people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast. I’d love to hear your thoughts too! Season 2 is loading soon.
Coming to Uganda to work, volunteer or simply live?
Read Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats and Is Uganda safe? (expats share their experiences about life in Uganda).
Looking for a tour operator in Uganda? Advice on tourist visas?
If you’re looking for travel inspiration, you’re in the right place! I’ve been to almost every corner of Uganda, but sometimes you just want some basic travel advice:
- Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly! UPDATED MAY 2025
- Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport UPDATED MAY 2025
- Guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa (Uganda Rwanda Kenya) UPDATED OCTOBER 2024
- Is Kenya really “visa free”? How to apply for the eTA (the Electronic Travel Authorisation that replaced Kenya’s tourist visa) UPDATED MAY 2025
- The Travel Directory lists registered tour operators, accommodation and things to do in Uganda. New listings are added regularly.
- You can also read reviews of Uganda tour operators on SafariBookings, the largest online marketplace for African safari tours.
Going on safari?
- Guide to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s fees (2024 – 2026). is the complete price list or ‘conservation tariff’ for all National Parks, Wildlife Reserves, gorilla permits, game drives, mountain climbing and more.
- Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas a multi-page guide
- Uganda’s National Parks a page on each of the country’s ten National Parks
I regularly travel around Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania. I have visited – and researched – a long list of places that don’t always make it onto Diary of a Muzungu, since I also write for guidebooks, lodges, tourism boards and tour operators. If you don’t find the info you need here, feel free to contact me directly.
Who is Diary of a Muzungu?
Read a bit About me, some Interviews and my Portfolio of writing for other publications. Do get in touch!
Random Uganda that will make you smile
Diary of a Muzungu comprises 100s of personal stories, travel reviews, wildlife encounters (and dating disasters!) Here are a few favourites.
- What makes the Pearl of Africa so special? Read the ever-popular 50 reasons why I love Uganda (with over 120,000 page views)
- Pant hoots and knuckle spins. Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest on the doorstep of my forest home
- Are Muzungus all rich? Apparently!
- Ants in my pants insects EEEEH!
- How to feed a baby elephant … cute! but the truth is shocking
- Were Toto right about Africa? remember that song?
- My local name is Nagawa but what does it mean? And how did I get this charming name? Read Bwindi – eye to eye with my totem
- Downtown dreadlocks – the muzungu’s blind date
- Grateful every day or “how nature saved me” is dedicated to my home at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest. Life at Sunbird Hill inspired me to launch the podcast (season 2 loading…)
Want the latest news in your inbox? Then sign up to Diary of a Muzungu’s newsletter!
What is the risk of Yellow Fever in Uganda?
Ask the Travel Doc: what are our chances of getting Yellow Fever on holiday in Uganda?
In summary: the risk is “negligible” but you still need to have proof of having had the Yellow Fever vaccine in order to enter the country.
The “Ask the Travel Doc” series is designed to answer some of your frequently asked medical questions (FAQs) about travel to East Africa. The FAQs are some of the many enquiries I’ve received here on Diary of a Muzungu over the years.
I am advised by Dr Natalie Prevatt, a British Travel Medicine doctor who I became friends with when she worked here in Uganda. Dr Prevatt (M.B.B.C.H., M.R.C.P.C.H., D.T.M.H., D.P.I.D. C.T.H.) is a Paediatric Consultant certified in Infectious Diseases, Tropical and Travel Medicine. She chairs The International Society of Travel Medicine’s paediatric board. Although she specialises in the needs of travelling pregnant women and children, she is a treasure trove of info on tropical diseases. She’s given me tons of helpful advice over the years, from mosquito and tsetse bite prevention, to how to travel with an upset stomach. She’s recently launched The Children’s Travel Doc telephone service preparing people for travel so she can be on the end of the phone for you too – I just hope she’ll still have time for me 😉
Over to you, Travel Doc!
Frequently asked questions about Yellow Fever and travel to Uganda courtesy of the “Ask the Travel Doc” series.
What are the chances of getting Yellow Fever in Uganda?
Dr Prevatt advises: Yellow Fever is present in sub-Saharan Africa, South America and Trinidad.
The chance of getting Yellow Fever in Uganda is negligible. There was one confirmed case in Wakiso District in 2022, according to WHO. There may be other unconfirmed cases.
Note that you can’t enter the country without proof of vaccination. If you are an international visitor, you’ll need to upload a digital copy of your Yellow Fever vaccination certificate as part of the online application for your tourist visa. Ugandans (and others who do not need a tourist visa) may be asked to show their certificates too, whether at road borders or Entebbe Airport.
Regionally, the chance of spread from neighbouring countries into Uganda does exist, but at the date of publishing this post it’s very rare.
How do you get Yellow Fever?
Dr Prevatt advises: You can catch Yellow Fever when you are bitten by aedes mosquitoes (the “stripey ones”) that are infected with the Yellow Fever virus. Aedes mosquitoes bite mostly in the day (but also sometimes at night).
How to avoid catching Yellow Fever?
Dr Prevatt advises: If you are concerned about getting bitten in daytime, wear long sleeves and socks and use a good mosquito repellent (i.e. DEET. I could talk about repellents for hours!) and respray regularly, especially after swimming. Do not put repellent under suntan lotion as it needs to be evaporating off the top of your skin!
After dusk, use more repellent and always sleep under a mosquito net. Babies will need cot nets and carrier or pram nets. Wearing long pyjamas with the air conditioning or fan on (if you have that option) is also very useful. You may also choose to use a mosquito coil or plug in but many people don’t like them. The Yellow Fever vaccine is also good protection but the bite prevention techniques are good as they work for all mosquitoes.
What are the symptoms of Yellow Fever?
Dr Prevatt advises: Yellow Fever can be a flu-like illness with a bit of nausea and vomiting, and sometimes yellowing of skin and eyes called jaundice (hence the name Yellow Fever) or it can be a severe haemorrhagic (bleeding) disease that causes failure of the circulation.
There are approximately 380,000 cases of Yellow Fever worldwide each year. Out of these, there are around 180,000 reported deaths. That’s quite a high mortality rate, so it is a dangerous disease.
How do you treat Yellow Fever?
Dr Prevatt advises: If you get jaundice you should go straight to hospital. Like many other viruses, there is no cure for Yellow Fever. In most cases (unless you get jaundice) it’s recommended that you simply get supportive nursing care until the virus passes.
Who needs Yellow Fever vaccination?
Dr Prevatt advises: Very few travellers catch Yellow Fever. Most people who get infected live in the region where Yellow Fever is spread.
Everyone travelling to Uganda is required to have certified protection against Yellow Fever, or a certificate of exemption. This applies to babies over age 9 months, or over 6 months if there was an epidemic (there are few reasons to take a baby into an epidemic!) By insisting on vaccination, Uganda are protecting themselves from people spreading the disease.
When you apply for a Uganda tourist visa for instance, you are asked to upload evidence of your Yellow Fever vaccination. This little yellow card is called the international certificate of vaccination.
People with weak immune systems (for example on low dose steroids, chemotherapy, pregnant, or at extremes of age) can have serious side effects from the Yellow Fever vaccine. They will be offered an exemption certificate, instead of the vaccine, when they see a Travel Health Specialist. Sometimes however, those people can have the vaccine if they cannot avoid travel to a Yellow Fever zone.
Once you have had the Yellow Fever vaccine, you will be issued with your yellow international certificate of vaccination card to show that you’ve had it. This card should be signed and dated by the clinic, with a log of your vaccination number. This certificate now lasts for life.
Tell us about possible side effects of theYellow Fever vaccine?
Dr Prevatt advises: Yes, most definitely! The Yellow Fever vaccine is a live virus vaccine which can cause serious adverse events. Its use is restricted to certified providers who have had training in deciding whether the vaccine is appropriate for you.
For example, very rarely having the vaccine can cause a disease similar to Yellow Fever itself. The risk of this appears to be approximately 1 in 200,000 people vaccinated. This risk is higher in people aged over 60, and very high in babies under 6 months (includes if a breastfeeding mother is given the Yellow Fever vaccine). More commonly, people can develop neurological problems after the vaccine; but the risk of this is still less than 1 per 100,000 people vaccinated.
A certified Travel Medicine Clinic will therefore assess your risk of catching the disease (remember Yellow Fever is nasty) and balance it against the risks of the vaccine.
Side effects are a different thing, and they usually amount to a very sore arm, with body aches and headache in one third of people.
Is it true that people in their 60s don’t need to have the Yellow Fever vaccination?
Dr Prevatt advises: No. It’s not that older people don’t need the Yellow Fever vaccination! Only that the risk of serious adverse events are higher for over 60s and at that age, the risk of the Yellow Fever vaccine itself usually outweighs the risk of the disease.
In such cases, you need to think carefully: if you need the certificate to enter a country where there is no Yellow Fever (but a certificate requirement) that is one reason to get an exemption certificate… if there’s a high risk of catching Yellow Fever and you haven’t been vaccinated, consider whether you really want to get an exemption certificate and travel there unprotected?!
Top tip: If you plan to travel somewhere when you are over 60 years old, think about having the vaccine earlier!
There are other groups of people who shouldn’t have the vaccine too, such as those living with HIV and with CD4 count of under 200. Your Travel Clinic will tell you if you shouldn’t have the Yellow Fever vaccination. In these cases, if you choose to travel you will be issued with a medical letter of exemption (MLOE). This is like the yellow card and explains why you haven’t been given the vaccine. If your immunity problem is your HIV status, you can ask that HIV not be mentioned on the yellow card and I would recommend they just write ‘medical exemption confirmed’.
What if you have lost your Yellow Fever certificate?
Dr Prevatt advises: If you’ve lost your certificate – um, don’t lose your certificate! – you will need to take a picture or copy of it to a Yellow Fever vaccination centre. They can then issue you with a new certificate. If you don’t have any evidence, then you’ll need to contact the centre that gave you the vaccine. They should be able to issue a new Yellow Fever certificate, once they have checked their records.
How many times in your life should you have a Yellow Fever vaccination?
Dr Prevatt advises: It’s only necessary to have the Yellow Fever vaccination once. In 2016 the World Health Organisation (WHO) announced that most people only need one dose to retain lifelong immunity.
You may have had more than one Yellow Fever vaccine and that’s not a problem, because it used to be given at 10-year intervals. However, nowadays, if you have had the vaccine and you have proof – you don’t need to have it again.
Top tip: WHO still recommends a second dose for those who had a weakened immune system at the time of their initial dose, including if you had it when pregnant or under 2 years of age.
What is the process for avoiding having a repeat Yellow Fever jab at the airport?
Dr Prevatt advises: Any border control that insists on seeing evidence of Yellow Fever vaccine within the last 10 years (old rules) and if not wanting to give you another dose – should be reminded of WHO’s revised rule that you only need one dose in your lifetime. If you find yourself in this situation, ask to speak to someone senior and explain that you do not need to be ‘jabbed’ again because your certificate is valid for life (even if it states a booster is due in 10 years).
Why the “Ask the Travel Doc” series?
My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin and I’ve lived in Uganda since 2009 when I arrived as a professional volunteer with Voluntary Service Overseas. Before touching down in Uganda, I was given a series of 14 injections (as it was thought to be cheaper to inoculate me than to expatriate me!) Since then I’ve shared numerous personal stories about travel health in Uganda. VSO volunteer friends included doctors, midwives and pharmacists, and tropical medicine experts such as Dr Natalie Prevatt, who also arrived in Uganda in 2009. She has been a regular visitor to Uganda every year (bar the pandemic), working in Mulago, Soroti, Mbale and Lacor Hospital. She has lectured annually in East Africa and back home in London where she was the first Travel Fellow of the London School of Health and Tropical Medicine to concentrate on the needs of pregnant women and children travelling. (As well as being an expert, our Travel Doc is a mum).
Do you have any questions about the Yellow Fever vaccination or certificate? (Or any other tropical or travel health related issues?) Feel free to ask questions in the comments (very helpful for other blog readers) or contact Dr Prevatt at The Children’s Travel Doc. Just say that Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉
Sustainable stars at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo
Showcasing sustainability at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE) 2024: the best sustainable tourism stands and Fair Trade Tourism Early Adopters
Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of Diary of a Muzungu, was honoured to help judge Uganda’s Sustainable Tourism Awards. Thanks to my fellow judges, Uganda Tourism Board team and Enabel for helping me compile this article.
As Uganda embarks on its sustainable tourism journey, many companies and partners are coming together to train, implement and promote best practices in sustainable, responsible and Fair Trade Tourism. The giving of awards is a good way to showcase best practice and encourage responsible tourism.
With this in mind, Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) with the support of Enabel (the Belgian development agency) held the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo’s inaugural sustainable tourism awards. In 2024, these awards were judged purely on the stands of exhibitors taking part in the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE). It’s hoped that in future years, the awards can take a deeper look at the company’s commitments and operations – beyond the expo itself.
The judges agreed to make four awards this year:
- Best Sustainable Stand – Overall
- Best Sustainable Stand – Tour and Travel
- Best Sustainable Stand – Hospitality
- Best Sustainable Stand – Innovation
For the full list of runners-up and special mentions, scroll down.
In 2024, the judges assessed POATE exhibitors based on the following criteria:
Design and construction materials of stand: EXAMPLES. Stands that used natural, locally sourced or recycled materials; designs that embodied the culture they are promoting; clever use of technology. The materials were considered biofriendly and encouraged community engagement since they were sourced from within the community and after use they would be easy to dispose of.
Waste reduction: EXAMPLES. Refillable metal water bottles and QR codes (instead of plastic bottles and lots of printed leaflets); the use or promotion of recycled products; promotional giveaways that were made in Uganda, and not imported. The judges applauded locally sourced materials that can be used in multiple ways.
General impressions of the stand, its attractiveness, welcoming staff with a sense of professionalism and inclusiveness: EXAMPLES. Smiling, knowledgeable staff are key to making a good impression. At stands that did well, staff wore branded uniforms or traditional dress, and gave a good sense of the destination or activity they were promoting.
Sustainable product offer: EXAMPLES. Development of new activities; promotion of new destinations; community-based tourism (developed with the community at heart) and low carbon footprint activities were of particular interest; stands that promoted environmental initiatives such as the planting of indigenous trees.
How decisions were reached
With the Uganda Tourism Board and Enabel, the judges identified a set of four criteria. The judges then toured the Expo and Cultural Village at the Pearl of Tourism Expo to nominate and assess eye-catching stands that they believed demonstrated the stand owner’s commitment to sustainability. The judges then deliberated to agree a shortlist.
Judges at the sustainable tourism awards 2024
- Assoc. Prof Jim Ayorekire – Makerere University, Department of Forestry Biodiversity and Tourism
- Lucie Carlier – Project Manager, Enabel
- Robert Ntale – Vice Chairperson, Exclusive Sustainable Tour Operators Association (ESTOA)
- Eric Ntalumbwa – PR Manager, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (UWEC)
- Charlotte Beauvoisin – Diary of a Muzungu & CBI Netherlands (Trainer in Sustainable Tourism & Digital Marketing)
- Samora Machel Semakula – Quality Assurance Manager, Uganda Tourism Board (UTB)
In the words of this year’s judges
“Sustainability is no longer about doing less harm. It’s about doing more good.” (Jochen Zeitz). As a sector and a country, we need to ensure tourism contributes to enhancing the experience of the tourists and at the same time improving the livelihoods of the host communities through responsible practices. Am glad to contribute in this direction.”
Assoc. Prof. Jim Ayorekire, Makerere University
“It was an honour to serve as a judge for the Sustainable and Fair Trade Tourism awards at the POATE this year. Seeing the innovative ways these tourism businesses are promoting sustainability and fair practices was truly inspiring. Their commitment to environmental protection, community empowerment, and ethical operations is helping to shape a more responsible tourism industry in Uganda. Being part of recognizing these early adopters and leaders in sustainable and equitable tourism was a highlight of the event for me.”
Lucie Carlier, Enabel
“Sustainability and innovation took centre stage at POATE 2024. My hope and prayer is that these Awards are sustainable! The stakeholders need more engagement to embrace sustainability through responsible tourism, because there is willingness to adhere.”
Eric Ntalumbwa
“Thank you to Uganda Tourism Board and Enabel for inviting me to be one of the judges. It was a pleasure to collaborate with my peers. Based on these first awards, I look forward to seeing a burst of creativity in sustainable tourism in Uganda!”
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu & The East Africa Travel Podcast
Winners of the Best Sustainable Stands at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE) 2024
Best Sustainable Stand – Overall winner – Buganda Heritage and Tourism Board
Best Sustainable Stand – Tour and Travel
- Kara-tunga Arts and Tours
- Maleng Travel
- Loremi Tours – experience the soul of Acholi
Best Sustainable Stand – Hospitality
- Mucha Riverside Lodge, Bwindi / Kisoro
- Lemala Authentic Camps and Lodges, Jinja
- Sambiya River Lodge, Murchison Falls
- Four Points by Sheraton, Kampala
- Kikonko Lodge, Lake Albert
Best Sustainable Stand – Innovation
- Good Glass, Kampala recycled glass household items
- SANA Gorilla Rafting
- KAFRED (Kibale Association for Rural and Environmental Development), Bigodi near Kibale Forest. Community-based tourism, locally made crafts, training centre for local guides
- “Beyond the Park” conservancy model of conservation outside three National Parks:
Kidepo Valley https://kkakkawildlife.org and Murchison Falls https://snarestowares.com and Lake Mburo https://rccuganda.org
Special Mention: Hospitality
- Lodge Solutions
- Gazelle Hospitality
- Whispers of the Nile
Special Mention: Innovation at the Cultural Village at the Pearl of Tourism Expo 2024
- Van Van Doch Art Studio: local artisans displayed a giant mountain gorilla made from recycled steel.
- West Nile Tourism Network: exhibited artefacts and culture, such as the porridge culinary experience.
- Kaynela Farms: mixed farming on large scale with food chain systems and BSF fly to feed chicken.
- Uganda Wildlife Education Conservation Education Centre (UWEC) waste management unit: initiative to upcycle waste material
- Kigezi Tourism Cluster: invited the Batwa minority ethnic group from the local community to dance at the expo. (They were a real hit with visitors!)
- Eco Action Uganda: created the thought-provoking elephant statue recycled from hundreds of discarded boda helmets.
Fair Trade Tourism Certification early adopters
POATE was also an opportunity to recognise the first ten “Early adopters of the journey towards Fair Trade Tourism Certification,” these being (in alphabetical order):
- Acholi Culinary Experience
- Acholi Homestay
- Bushpig Backpackers
- Karamoja Safari Camp
- Miika Eco Resort
- Morungole Eco Camp
- Muhabura Cultural Experience and Craft Centre
- Ruhija Community Rest Camp
- Timu Eco Camp
- Turaco Treetops
Making Fair Trade Tourism Certification available for Ugandan tourism and hospitality businesses is a project sponsored by Enabel. The development agency invites all eligible tourism businesses to register their interest in becoming pioneers of Fair Trade Tourism in Uganda, here. This initiative presents a unique opportunity to showcase their dedication to ethical tourism and responsible travel while opening up new market opportunities.
By recognising companies whose work directly and positively impacts communities and contributes to environmental preservation, we hope that more Ugandans will benefit from the positive influence of tourism. Through recognising exhibitors who have considered how to minimise their environmental footprint, and equitably supporting employment of Ugandans, we hope that we are setting the stage for a more sustainable tourism industry in Uganda.
“UTB will continue to promote sustainability and Fair Trade Tourism amongst its stakeholders along the value chain. Our partnership with Enabel Uganda at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo 2024 boosted our efforts as champions of sustainability in Uganda’s tourism sector. We must continue to position our country as a sustainable tourism destination, an intervention that requires collaboration and partnerships, like we had with Enabel.”
Lilly Ajarova, CEO, Uganda Tourism Board
Uganda has a long way to go to meet the UN’s SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) but we believe that showcasing the companies listed here is a step in the right direction.
If you’d like to learn more about sustainable tourism in Uganda, click on the links in this blog post or send me a message. Sustainably yours, Diary of a Muzungu and colleagues.
What do a Queen & a sports commentator have in common? [PODCAST SEASON 1]
NEWSFLASH June 2025: We won! The East Africa Travel Podcast just won a global award!
The East Africa Travel Podcast has been a labour of love… my biggest project in many a year… with many long nights… and a steep learning curve. If you’ve noticed I’ve been quiet for a while, now you know why!
The East Africa Travel Podcast is inspired by life on the edge of Uganda’s Kibale Forest, a National Park famous for chimpanzees, forest elephants and African grey parrots.
It’s easy to listen to the Podcast section of Diary of a Muzungu – just click here
Listen to the podcast for birdsong, travel advice, lively chats (& strictly positive vibes with a long list of brilliant conservationists in Africa and beyond, along with glowing endorsements from visitors from around the world).
Season 1 of the East Africa Travel Podcast launched in 2024 with a Trailer and 20 episodes
Where do I start?
- The 3 minute Trailer. You’ll LOVE the beginning!
- Episode 1 Welcome to my world! sets the scene with a glimpse of life at Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. I know you’ll love the forest sounds…
- Episode 2 Chimps, elephants and how I ended up in Uganda. Who am I? Which guests am I hosting?
- Episode 3, tune in to my conversation with the Nnaabagereka, Queen Sylvia of Buganda after she returns from gorilla tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest with Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka.
- Episode 4, Tickling a rhino and bowing to the Shoebill is my conversation with Rob Walker, the British sports commentator and Uganda’s official sports tourism ambassador. His excitement is infectious!
- In Episode 6, I am fascinated by every word uttered by primatologist / anthropologist Prof Richard Wrangham!
- In episode 9 guidebook author Philip Briggs and I are high up in the birdhide at Sunbird Hill.
- In episode 10, we watch “Warring warthogs on a walking safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park. I stay at the luxurious Honey Bear Camp, the only private concession in Kyambura Game Reserve (Wildplaces)
- In episode 7, I’m mesmerised by powerful Maasai music and uplifting conversations about sustainable tourism at the Original Maasai Lodge in Tanzania.
- In episode 11, hear why ecologist and field researcher Chris Ketola loves snakes and adores bats!
- In episode 13, entomologist Dr Michael Ochse and I examine the 100s of moths and insects buzzing around our heads one dark night!
- In episodes 15 and 16, I spend time with renowned conservationist and “self-confessed gorillaholic who’s been obsessed for 40 years!” Time with the irrepressible Ian Redmond OBE is always a learning experience.
- In Episode 20, listen out for baboons during my live chat with Pam Cunneyworth of Colobus Conservation of Diani, Kenya.
- And in between all the scintillating conversations… it’s just you and me, ambling along in nature, taking in the rich backdrop of birds and wildlife… you never know what we will hear and see together.
- Season 1 comprises 20 podcast episodes, all here on Diary of a Muzungu and all podcast directories.
- Season 2 will go live in August 2025.
- Where next? Jinja in Uganda; Mombasa and Diani in Kenya; news from Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo and the Sustainable Tourism Summit in Kenya – and Kibale Forest, of course!
- Who are my next guests? Harriet Owalla (Kenyan travel journalist), Ikechi Uko (Nigerian and West African tourism guru), Rowan Martin (World Parrot Trust), Diani Turtle Watch … and many more lined up.
The Muzungu has a request!
I would LOVE you to:
- Listen to the Trailer + at least one episode
- Share the podcast with your friends and everyone interested in travel in / to East Africa
- Leave a Review / Comment
- Why? Reviews + ratings mean the East Africa Travel Podcast will be shown to a bigger audience. Help me tell more people about this fabulously beautiful corner of our world.
Got a Spotify subscription? Then click here + listen + Follow + rate 5 stars
Click to listen on Apple Podcasts and go to the Show description to write a review and we’ll be friends forever!
Thanks for all your comments and questions. I LOVE hearing from you!
The East Africa Travel Podcast is hosted by Charlotte Beauvoisin, AKA Nagawa author of Diary of a Muzungu
Guide to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s fees for 2024 to 2026
Uganda Wildlife Authority Conservation Tariff (comprehensive guide to fees for park entry, primate tracking permits and more) to June 2026.
The good news is that there are very few price increases. You hardly need me to remind you how hard travel – and thus conservation revenue – has been hit during the pandemic. It’s therefore no surprise that the authorities are doing everything they can to raise money. Some might argue that we need discounts to encourage people to travel. However, given conservation’s dire finances recently, I say let’s be grateful how few price increases there are. Now let’s book that safari!
UWA’s price list covers National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees, gorilla / chimpanzee / golden monkey tracking permits, primate habituation, mountain and volcano hiking, mountain biking and boat rides on the River Nile, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Mburo – among many other activities.
A few things that the muzungu is looking forward to include:
- Hiring a boat in Toro Semliki wildlife reserve to view the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
- Kidepo Lonyilli summit hike
- Kapkwai sector of Murchison Falls National Park. (Did you know you can get free entry to Kapkwai?)
- Mount Elgon mountain biking. That must be awesome!
- Bushiyi trail extension, the shortest trail to Wagagai, the highest peak on Mount Elgon.
- Chimpanzee tracking at Ngogo (Kibale National Park) a few hundred metres from my home at Sunbird Hill
- Golden monkey habituation in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Golden monkeys are very pretty creatures!
Uganda park entry fees – Murchison Falls slight increase
Since 2022, visitors to Murchison Falls National Park have paid a little more than other protected areas. Stephen Masaba of Uganda Wildlife Authority explained to Diary of a Muzungu:
For Murchison Falls, we observed high speeding and increased road kills (especially of baboons) but have also noted littering and high levels of plastic waste. Of the number of visitors to Murchison, over 10% of these people are just in transit (crossing through the park). The slight fee increase should help curb some of these effects.
Director, Tourism and Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority
Although they don’t (yet) have the facilities that more established National Parks do, now might be a time to explore some of Uganda’s less visited protected areas such as Pian Upe and Katonga Wildlife Reserves.
For full details on activities not listed in the summary (game drives, nature walks, birdwatching and more) download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s full tariff for July 2024 to June 2026 here.
Planning a Uganda safari?
Did you know I have a Travel Directory full of tour operators who would love to organise a trip of a lifetime for you? Alternatively, drop me a line for travel recommendations.
