We won! The East Africa Travel Podcast just won a global award!
The East Africa Travel Podcast by Diary of a Muzungu recognised at ATTA® for Action Awards 2025
Charlotte Beauvoisin deserves global fame for her beautiful podcast series that both inspire, inform and entertain while at the same time giving all the interviewees a voice. (Comment by Debbie Flynn of FINN Partners, one of the judges) pictured above with Charlotte and Chris Mears, ATTA® CEO).
I’m still pinching myself! A massive heartfelt THANK YOU to the judges, event organisers, fellow finalists, and everyone who has listened to the East Africa Travel Podcast. This recognition by international travel PR experts and colleagues from across the global African travel industry means a great deal to me: it reflects the purpose behind everything I have been doing in Uganda over the past 15 years: to share East Africa’s stories in a meaningful, responsible – and fun! – way.
The award-winners were announced at Experience Africa in London on 23 June 2025. It was particularly meaningful to be recognised in the UK, which is not only my home country but an important source market for visitors to Uganda.
“The ATTA® Media Voice for Action Award recognises the importance of creativity, accurate storytelling, ethical focus, and audience impact to amplify the message of responsible tourism in Africa.”
It’s rare for podcasts to be recognised in global tourism awards — another reason why this moment feels so powerful.
New here? Start listening to the East Africa Travel Podcast on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or right here on Diary of a Muzungu.
The East Africa Travel Podcast as a personal and upbeat exploration of responsible tourism in Uganda and beyond. It captures unscripted moments and conversations with tourism changemakers and conservation heroes, blending stories with East Africa’s natural soundtrack: the dawn chorus, the grunting of hippos, the call of the great blue turaco and chimpanzees calling deep in the forest.
From walking safaris in Kyambura Game Reserve with Wildplaces, to the Original Maasai Lodge in Tanzania, a lodge that is run entirely by the Maasai community, the stories are designed to inspire. Another highlight was chatting to Queen Sylvia, the Nnaabagareka of Buganda Kingdom after she returned from tracking mountain gorillas in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Fascinating expert guests include Ian Redmond OBE, Professor Richard Wrangham and Uganda’s official sports tourism ambassador Rob Walker. For the full list of season 1’s episodes and guests, click here. With so much ‘noise’ online – and AI producing endless generic (and sometimes misleading) content – I wanted to create something more personal. The podcast gives listeners a strong sense of place and a human voice behind every story.
Why did I start the East Africa Travel Podcast? And who is Diary of a Muzungu? Read more in the blog post I’m a finalist!
Comments from podcast listeners around the world
- “Miss Charlotte, I love your podcast. I love the way you bring in nature. It actually makes me miss home when I listen to the podcast… will I be listening to this podcast? Yes, yes and yes.” Thank you Sambaza (a Kenyan living in the US).
- Read the blog post “What people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast.”
What’s next for the East Africa Travel Podcast?
Season 2 launches in August 2025 and will feature:
- Diani Turtle Watch in Kenya
- Ikechi Uko, tourism guru visiting Uganda from Nigeria
- Harriet Owalla, Kenyan travel journalist on location in Mombasa
- Rowan Martin of World Parrot Trust discussing the impact of the pet trade on wild birds
- Cuthbert Ncube, Chair of the Africa Tourism Association, visiting Uganda from South Africa and Eswatini.
… as well as forest walks and gorilla tracking; long-distance travel by bus, train and ferry from Kampala to the Kenyan coast, and who know what else! Listen to the podcast here on Diary of a Muzungu, Apple, Spotify and all podcast directories.
What are the ATTA® for Action Awards? ATTA® is the African Travel and Tourism Association.
The ATTA® for Action Awards celebrate those who are making travel in Africa more ethical, impactful and sustainable. Each category recognises innovation and leadership—whether in community uplift, zero-waste tourism, or storytelling. Learn more at awards.atta.travel. (What an honour to be associated with awards whose values are so close to my own heart).
ATTA® for Action Awards are in their second year. Read about all the 2025 winners and finalists here.
How exciting to meet travel experts who “get” what I’m trying to do: using the sounds of nature and conversations with travellers, conservationists and a range of fascinating guests to inspire travel and promote “cool people doing awesome stuff to protect our planet.”
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A voice for action: I’m a finalist in ATTA® for Action Awards
The East Africa Travel Podcast is hosted by Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu
Update June 2025: I’m thrilled to tell you that I won the ATTA® Media Voice for Action Award at Experience Africa in London! Thank you to the judges, fellow finalists, and everyone who has supported the East Africa Travel Podcast.
“The ATTA® Media Voice for Action Award recognises the importance of creativity, accurate storytelling, ethical focus, and audience impact to amplify the message of responsible tourism in Africa.”
This recognition by African travel colleagues means a great deal to me: it reflects the purpose behind everything I have been doing in Uganda over the past 15 years: to share East Africa’s stories in a meaningful, responsible – and fun! – way.
What is the East Africa Travel Podcast?
I created the East Africa Travel Podcast as a personal and upbeat way to explore sustainable tourism in Uganda and beyond. It captures unscripted moments and conversations with tourism changemakers, blending storytelling with East Africa’s natural soundtrack: the dawn chorus, the grunting of hippos, the call of the great blue turaco and chimpanzees calling deep in the forest.
From walking safaris in Kyambura Game Reserve with Wildplaces, to the Original Maasai Lodge in Tanzania that is run entirely by the Maasai community, the stories are designed to inspire. Another highlight was chatting to Queen Sylvia, the Nnaabagareka of Buganda Kingdom after she returned from tracking mountain gorillas in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Fascinating expert guests include Ian Redmond OBE, Professor Richard Wrangham and Uganda’s official sports tourism ambassador Rob Walker. For the full list of season 1’s episodes and guests, click here.
Why I started the East Africa Travel Podcast
The idea was born during lockdown. Friends around the world loved the tropical bird backdrop to my audio notes – so I asked myself: how could I capture the sounds of nature to inspire travel, and to showcase the conservation heroes I’ve met over 15 years of travelling around Uganda and East Africa?
With so much noise online – and AI producing endless generic (and sometimes misleading) content – I wanted to create something more personal. The podcast gives listeners a strong sense of place and a human voice behind every story.
Who’s listening?
Listeners from around the world tell me they feel closer to booking a trip after hearing “the everyday sounds of life in Uganda.” Comments include:
- “I had no idea you could get so close to nature.”
- “This episode made me want to return.”
- Read the blog post “What people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast.”
Who is Diary of a Muzungu?
In 2009, I left London life to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation through Voluntary Service Overseas, supporting rangers tackling poaching and human–wildlife conflict (anything to do with elephants really!) That experience changed my life. Life has come full circle: I now live on the edge of a Protected Area in a wooden house on the edge of Kibale Forest. Elephants are occasional nocturnal visitors.
Since 2009, I’ve dedicated myself to promoting Uganda – and Africa’s – tourism potential. Since 2013, I’ve trained over 1,200 guides, lodge staff and tour operators in digital marketing. In 2024, I became a sustainable tourism trainer. I’m known locally as Nagawa, protector of the Nkima (red-tailed monkey) clan.
What’s next for the East Africa Travel Podcast?
Season 2 launches mid-2025 and will feature:
- Watching baby turtles with Diani Turtle Watch in Kenya
- Ikechi Uko, tourism guru visiting Uganda from Nigeria
- Harriet Owalla, Kenyan travel journalist on location in Mombasa
- Rowan Martin of World Parrot Trust discussing the impact of the pet trade on wild birds
- Cuthbert Ncube, Chair of the Africa Tourism Association, visiting Uganda from South Africa and Eswatini.
…and more stories from forest walks and gorilla tracking to long-distance travel by bus, train and ferry from Kampala to the Kenyan coast. Listen to the podcast here on Diary of a Muzungu, Apple, Spotify and all podcast directories.
What are the ATTA® for Action Awards?
Tourism is competitive, and in the race to make quick profits, local communities and the environment are often overlooked. There is a growing business case for sustainable tourism – one in which local communities gain meaningful social and financial benefits, where the overall impact of tourism is neutral or even positive. I’m honoured to be a finalist in these well-designed awards, which go far beyond the prevailing narratives of ‘business as usual’ or the often superficial CSR efforts that amount to little more than greenwashing.
The ATTA® for Action Awards celebrate those who are making travel in Africa more ethical, impactful and sustainable. Each category recognises innovation and leadership—whether in community uplift, zero-waste tourism, or storytelling. Learn more at awards.atta.travel.
ATTA® for Action Awards are in their second year. Read about all the 2025 finalists here. Award categories are: Purpose & People, Earthkeepers, Eco‑Innovation, Zero Waste Trailblazer, Community Upliftment, Marine Impact, Collaborative Impact, Traveller Education and Awareness, Media Voice for Action, Emerging Changemaker. ATTA® is the African Travel and Tourism Association.
How exciting to meet travel experts who “get” what I’m trying to do: using the sounds of nature and conversations with travellers, conservationists and a range of fascinating guests to inspire travel and promote “cool people doing awesome stuff to protect our planet.”
Recognising sustainability at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo
The Sustainable Tourism Awards and Fair Trade Tourism at Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE) in Kampala, 2025
As Uganda continues its journey towards sustainable tourism, a growing number of companies and partners are working together to train, adopt, and promote best practices in sustainability, responsible travel, and Fair Trade Tourism. Recognising commitment through awards can effectively highlight success stories and inspire others to follow suit.
Sustainability is a hot topic in tourism — but what does it really mean for our industry?
The awards aim to educate both the industry and the traveller. True sustainability means profitable tourism that puts people and planet first – driving real social impact and environmental gains. Done well, it’s a radical rethink with long-term benefits.
How it works
The Uganda Tourism Board (UTB), with support from Enabel (the Belgian Development Agency), introduced the Sustainable Tourism Awards during the 2024 Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE). Now in their second year, the 2025 awards – held during POATE in May – continued to celebrate tourism businesses leading the way in sustainability. This year the Netherlands’ CBI (Centre for the Promotion of Imports from Developing Countries) played a key role by providing technical assistance to the team: continuously refining the awards selection criteria used by judges to evaluate exhibitors. CBI also helped identify individuals with proven track records and expertise in tourism development, sustainable product innovation and marketing.
Criteria
Judging focused on the sustainability of the exhibitors’ stands and the messaging and impact shared by stand staff. Judges assessed each exhibitor using the following criteria:
- Design and construction materials: EXAMPLES. Stands that used natural, locally sourced or recycled materials, and embodied local culture; thoughtful use of technology; materials that were sourced from within the community; can be reused or are recyclable.
- Waste reduction: EXAMPLES. Refillable metal water bottles and QR codes (instead of plastic bottles and printed leaflets); recycled products; promotional giveaways that were made in Uganda; locally sourced materials that can be (re-)used in multiple ways.
- General impressions of the stand: EXAMPLES. At stands that scored well, welcoming and knowledgeable staff wore traditional dress or branded uniforms, and gave a good sense of the destination or activity they were promoting.
- Sustainable product offer. EXAMPLES. Development of new activities that have a strong social or positive conservation impact; community-based tourism (developed by and for the community) and low carbon footprint activities were of particular interest; stands that run environmental initiatives such as the planting of indigenous trees.
How decisions were reached
With the Uganda Tourism Board, Enabel and CBI, the judges identified a set of criteria. The judges then toured all stands at the expo to nominate and assess eye-catching stands that they believed demonstrated the stand owner’s commitment to sustainability. The judges then deliberated to agree a shortlist and winners.
Judges for the Sustainable Tourism Awards 2025
- Assoc. Prof Jim Ayorekire – Makerere University, Department of Tourism
- Dorcas Namajja – Uganda Tourism Board (UTB)
- Lucie Carlier – Project Manager, Enabel (pictured top of page with Loremi Tours)
- Caroline Gwiina – Quality Assurance Manager, Uganda Hotel and Tourism Training Institute
- Grace Stead – General Manager, Fair Trade Tourism (FTT)
- Charlotte Beauvoisin – Diary of a Muzungu & CBI Netherlands (Trainer in Sustainable Tourism & Digital Marketing)
The judges agreed to make five awards in 2025:
- Best Sustainable Stand – Tour Operators
- Best Sustainable Stand – Accommodation
- Best Sustainable Stand – Experiences
- Best Sustainable Stand – Community Groups
- Best Sustainable Stand – Innovation
Awards and winners
Uganda’s Best Sustainable Tourism Stands 2025
On the last day of POATE 2025 – Friday 23 May – the Sunset Restaurant at Speke Resort Munyonyo was the setting for a lively celebration of tourism, with live music and traditional dance pulsating through the air. Nominees were clearly thrilled to be invited – and proud to receive their certificates.
The winners of the Best Sustainable Stands at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo 2025 are:
Best Sustainable Stand – Tour Operators
- Winner – Africa Runners Company
- Special mention – Loremi Tours, Gulu (pictured top of page)
Best Sustainable Stand – Accommodation
- Winner – Mucha Riverside Lodge, Kisoro
- Special mention – Fairway Boutique Hotel, Kampala
- Special mention – Fontis Residences Hotel, Kampala
Best Sustainable Stand – Experiences
- Winner – Kara-tunga Tours, Karamoja, northeastern Uganda
- Special mention – Mpanga Nature Center
- Special mention – Bruno Pottery Studio (Bruno is a lecturer at Makerere University)
Best Sustainable Stand – Community Groups
- Winner – Boomu Women’s Group, Murchison Falls National Park
- Special mention – Bwindi Mgahinga Conservation Trust
- Special mention – Ankole Heritage and Cultural Tourism Association Mbarara
- Special mention – Ride 4 A Woman, Buhoma, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
Best Sustainable Stand – Innovation
- Winner – Makao Kwetu on a “mission is to create eco-friendly spaces that inspire and empower communities”
- Special mention – Rwenzori Founders near Kasese
Recognising Fair Trade Tourism certification in Uganda
The Expo also celebrated “FTT-engaged” members of the Fair Trade Tourism certification in Uganda:
- The Acholi Experience and The Acholi Homestay (Loremi Tours), Gulu
- Turaco Treetops Kibale Forest
- Adrift River Club and Wildwaters Lodge, Jinja | Lemala Group
- Also recognised were Manya Africa Tours and Native Africa Tours, members of the Exclusive Sustainable Tour Operators Association (ESTOA) who are early adopters of Travelife, a global certification scheme for tourism sustainability.
Why Fair Trade Tourism certification matters
- Empowers communities: Ensures tourism income benefits local people and encourages development.
- Promotes ethics: Supports respect for culture, traditions and nature.
- Builds trust: Attracts conscious travellers looking for responsible tourism.
- Drives sustainability: Protects Uganda’s ecosystems and biodiversity.
- Gives market advantage: Differentiates certified businesses on global platforms.
- Develops skills: Training improves quality of service.
- Backs conservation: Encourages investment in conservation initiatives.
There was significant interest in more businesses becoming Fair Trade Tourism certified and we hope to celebrate these achievements at the 2026 edition of the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo.
Fair Trade Tourism certification in Uganda is essential for promoting a more ethical, sustainable, and community-focused tourism sector. It helps ensure that tourism contributes positively to local economies and the environment, which is crucial for the sector’s future viability and growth.
In the words of the judges
- Lucie Carlier (Enabel): The award event was clearly a highlight of the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo! The Sustainable Tourism Awards at POATE play a crucial role in promoting responsible and sustainable practices within the tourism sector. The awards highlight and recognise organisations and businesses that are leading in sustainable tourism practices. This not only serves to motivate others in the industry to adopt similar practices but also sets benchmarks for what is considered exemplary in sustainability.
- Grace Stead (Fair Trade Tourism): Well done to all the participants! It was good to see how some of the stands were innovative in use of items that were available to them without additional costs, creating visual impact and engaging with visitors. For example, Africa Runners (tour operator winner) was not only handing out trees, but following up to check where they were planted, which is commendable. Kara-Tunga (experience winner) created an experience which pulled people into their stand and shared their product in a very practical manner.
- Caroline Gwiina (UHTTI): The awards are an excellent way for us to increase awareness on the importance of sustainability across the entire tourism value chain. Recognising smaller and lesser known companies is particularly empowering for them because it clearly communicates that sustainability can be practised right where you are. I congratulate all the winners and look forward to seeing more surprising participants emerging next year.
- Dr Jim Ayorekire (Makerere University): Sustainability is no longer an option but a necessity as Uganda strives to position itself as a competitive destination. The POATE awards are a welcome step in this direction, given that they empower tourism stakeholders to understand and implement environmentally and culturally responsible practices. By incorporating sustainability into POATE, award-winners will encourage more enterprises to adopt and promote eco-friendly practices, respect local cultures, and conserve natural resources.
- Richard Okut (CBI): The Sustainability Awards at POATE are fast becoming a powerful catalyst and motivation for change in Uganda’s tourism sector. As a technical advisor and Chair for the Awards, I witnessed the creativity, innovation, and commitment to transform towards responsible tourism. Elements of conservation, culture and intangible heritage are becoming visible components of the POATE. Through simple, low-cost innovations or deeper engagement with environmental and cultural stewardship, these awards not only celebrate the winners but also send a clear message: sustainability is not a luxury, it’s a necessity, and it can start anywhere.
- Charlotte Beauvoisin (Diary of a Muzungu and CBI): There is a growing business case for sustainable tourism. Mastering a niche – such as adventure tourism or birdwatching – can make a business stand out, attract high-value clients, and price accordingly. Now’s the time to start thinking about how to make your 2026 stand – and your business as a whole – more sustainable.”
Looking ahead
UTB will continue its focus on sustainability by integrating these awards into future expos, encouraging tourism stakeholders to adopt sustainable practices. The board’s goal is to position Uganda among the top sustainable tourism destinations in Africa, ensuring that tourism development benefits both the environment and local communities.
Bradford Ochieng, Deputy CEO, Uganda Tourism Board.
As Enabel’s Lucie Carlier summed up: “We are convinced that sustainable tourism is the future of the sector in Uganda because it balances economic development with environmental preservation and community empowerment, ensuring that tourism benefits are long-lasting and inclusive for both the local population and visitors.”
Uganda has all the ingredients to become one of Africa’s leading sustainable tourism destinations — and these awards are just the beginning!
Did you attend the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo? Which stands caught your eye – and why? We’d love to know!
The legacy of the marabou stork lover
RIP Derek Pomeroy, a leading figure in Ugandan ornithology, who died in May 2025, aged 90.
PHOTO. Marabou storks along the railway line near Namuwongo Kampala. Credit: Achilles Byaruhanga.
Diary of a Muzungu writes: At last week’s Nature Uganda annual general meeting in Kampala, members learned with sadness of the passing of one of Uganda’s pioneer conservationists: Derek Pomeroy was the first ever chairman of Nature Uganda. NU’s Executive Director Achilles Byaruhanga called for a moment of silence: “Professor Pomeroy was the father of birds and birding in Uganda. He mentored and trained so many of us.”
Below is an article by Rhett Ayers Butler, Founder of Mongabay, dated May 31 2025:
If Derek Pomeroy said to meet him at 7am, you were expected to be there by exactly 7am—not a minute later. Punctuality was not just a preference; it was a principle. Whether in a zoology lab, a birdwatching field station, or over tea at Makerere University, order and discipline mattered. Behind that exacting standard, however, was a deeper devotion: to science, to Uganda’s biodiversity, and above all, to the generations of African conservationists he helped train and shape.
Pomeroy arrived in Uganda in 1969 to study marabou storks. He stayed for most of his life. What began as ornithological curiosity became a lifelong project of institution-building, mentoring, and record-keeping. His field notes on birds, gathered across decades, became the backbone of the Bird Atlas of Uganda and the National Biodiversity Data Bank. He played a pivotal role in founding the Makerere University Institute of Environment and Natural Resources (MUIENR), a center that now shapes the country’s environmental policy and research.
Through civil unrest, political transitions, and global shifts in conservation priorities, Pomeroy remained a constant. He trained hundreds of students—many of whom now lead major conservation efforts in Uganda and beyond. His greatest legacy may not lie in peer-reviewed journals or global assessments, but in the lives he shaped. Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, one of Uganda’s leading wildlife veterinarians, remembered him as a mentor who encouraged her earliest efforts and celebrated her success. Edward Okot Omoya, now a professor, put it simply: “He was more than a supervisor. He was a father figure.” Others recall how he secured funding for dozens of students who might never have studied conservation otherwise. From senior professors to field biologists just starting out, the story was the same: a demanding, generous, and utterly committed teacher.
He published widely, including on bird population dynamics, wetland ecology, and biodiversity indicators, often ahead of global trends. His research illuminated the effects of agriculture on wildlife long before “sustainable landscapes” became a buzzword. A member of the IUCN’s Stork, Ibis, and Spoonbill Specialist Group, he saw local data as vital to global conservation.
Even in his final years, his curiosity never waned. At 88, he was still in the field, counting vultures in Murchison Falls National Park. He was working on several papers when he died.
“He never stopped being interested in life,” wrote Andrew Plumptre, Head of the Key Biodiversity Areas (KBA) Secretariat.
Pomeroy returned to the UK only in 2023. He died, fittingly, with his work unfinished but well-laid for others to continue. In a region where expertise was once exported, he helped root it firmly in place. For many, Derek Pomeroy didn’t just teach the study of birds. He taught them to stay, to build, and to give back.
Uganda’s conservation community has been sharing condolence messages that speak of the Professor’s impact:
- Ooh my!..sad to hear the passing on of Prof. Pomeroy…. He build such an admirable legacy in biodiversity conservation, natural resources management in Uganda & particularly at Makerere University…… personally he played a very key role in who I am today from MUIENR to Bwindi etc…..MHSRIP (Robert Bitariho)
- Oh no, a legend and huge influence to many of us. A big loss. Very sad. (Michael Keigwin, Uganda Conservation Foundation)
- Fare well Derek! We shall always remember you whenever we see karolis soaring above scanning for filth below & then doing the much undervalued dirty biosanitation work PRO BONO PUBLICO. They will lift & carry your spirit that opened our eyes! (Dr Ludwig Siefert, Uganda Carnivore Programme).
- Prof. Derek transformed the postgraduate training system at Makerere University and conservation of birds in Uganda. Another giant in conservation gone so early. Rest in peace Derek. (Bintoora)
- May his soul rest in peace. I first met him on a trip to Lake Mburo National Park in ’99. He was leading our birding trip and everyone was on tenterhooks because of his strict timekeeping! (Padjo Musiime)
- What a big loss to the conservation fraternity. The bird guru really served this country with passion. (Dom)
I’m sad that the conservation legend Derek has passed on. I know that death is a fact of life in this world. but I also know that the passing of such a great dedicated person leaves a huge gap in the conservation fraternity. I therefore mourn because of the vacuum left behind. but should it be a vacuum?
Derek stood with Uganda in his youthful days when the country was bleeding because of misrule. when expatriates were scampering for dear life during Amin’s time Derek stood his grounds and stayed in zoology department of Makerere University. Many scholars passed through his hands and I believe there many Ugandans in high positions in this country who were his students. he built human capacity. in conservation, he played a key role in promoting conservation studies and research for management. he was an authority on birds and ecological related issues of protected areas. he empowered protected areas managers by appreciating their skills and their potential. he was always there in time when. he was needed. in lake Mburo, he had his campsite where he pitched his tents, often with his students to undertake his monitoring programs. he lived a modest life and fitted well in our conservation economics situation.
so instead of mourning Derek, I suggest that the capacity he has left should stand up to be counted and ensure his legacy lives on. I think Derek was more than a lecturer or bird lover. he loved Uganda and was deeply committed to its natural resources. let’s celebrate his legacy, let’s promote the values he cherished.
Nature Uganda could establish a regular Pomeroy lecture series so that his legacy lives on and young conservationist learn more about him. May his soul rest eternally. Arthur Mugisha (Fauna & Flora)
Diary of a Muzungu adds: I arrived in Uganda in 2009 as a VSO with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. I’ve since offered pro bono support to numerous conservation organisations including Conservation Through Public Health, NatureUganda and In the Shadow of Chimpanzees NGO (at Sunbird Hill), as well as the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Although I didn’t know the Prof, his name was frequently mentioned by ornithologist friends.
From rollex to royalty: Kampala’s must-visit attractions
Don’t ignore the capital on a Uganda tour: Diary of a Muzungu’s top places to visit in Kampala
I confess: I love Kampala!
For all its crazy craziness, its frequently terrible traffic, the pollution and noise, the insane way in which charismatic old buildings are pulled down to be replaced by faceless malls, there’s something so exciting about this city!
I miss Kampala. I always get excited when I approach the city limits again. (I also feel my stress levels rise too. And quickly!) But as a Kampala resident for ten years, it has forever secured a place in my heart.
Uganda’s capital city has a mind-boggling list of restaurants, café’s, bars, nightclubs, hotels and more, but if you’re coming to the Pearl of Africa to track gorillas or chimps or go on safari, it’s likely you will be swiftly taken upcountry. That’s usually for good reason: if you’re a nature lover, you won’t want to get stuck in traffic gridlock during your precious few days in the country. However! If you really want a feel for what makes the country buzz, bypass Kampala and you’ll miss a big chunk of “the Uganda experience.”
Kampala’s seven historic hills now spread to twenty-one hills. The resident population of two million doubles daily with commuters. Despite the fast pace of development, climb to the top of any hill and you will be rewarded by refreshing views of Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater lake. It’s no surprise that houses with good views of the lake command higher rent.
Despite the rush to modernise, Kampala preserves its rich Buganda kingdom heritage. The British colonial influence is reflected in the city’s architecture, street names and historical sites.
Kampala’s concentration of government, banking and commercial institutions draws investors and jobseekers from across the world. This cosmopolitan hub’s languages and cuisines reflect the country’s 50+ tribes, its regional neighbours, refugee communities, international tourists and expats.
These are some of the top attractions that visitors to Kampala always love:
- Ndere Cultural Centre is my number one recommendation for all visitors: as excellent as ever, this evening dance show is a timeless celebration of Ugandan and African culture. Read my review of the Ndere show.
- Uganda Museum: you’ll be amazed at Uganda’s diverse cultural heritage illustrated through artefacts, exhibits and informative guides at this small museum on Kira Road, next door to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and the British High Commission. (NOTE: the Uganda Museum is temporarily closed for refurbishment).
- Local food: Ugandans can EAT! The famous buffet lunch is centred around matooke (steamed banana), a meat stew, beans and groundnut sauce. Pile your plate high with rice, sweet potato, cassava and yam. Sample street food favourites like rolex (omelette rolled in a chapati), muchomo roasted meat and luwombo (usually chicken or meat, slow steamed in smoked banana leaves). Uganda is famous for her tropical fruits: sweet pineapples, plentiful bananas, mangos, passionfruit, guava, papaya, watermelon and sugarcane. Less common in central Uganda but found in the downtown markets are tree tomatoes, tamarind, oranges and soursop. Read Virtually edible – a food tour of Uganda.
- Nightlife: No visit to Kampala is complete without a night out. (Don’t blame me if you end up forgetting your real reason for visiting Uganda!)
- Kasubi Tombs: explore the splendid traditional hut and meet the ancestors of long-gone Kabakas (kings) of Buganda Kingdom. Did you know you can make cloth from a tree? On the Experiential Trail of Buganda, watch the age-old skill of barkcloth making, take part in a cultural dance, and learn how to play a game of omweso. Site guides are ready to welcome you.
- Royal Mile: walk along the tree-lined Royal Mile (Kabaka Anjagala) between the Bulange (seat of the Buganda Parliament) and the Mengo (Kabaka’s) Palace in the Lubiri as you trace the footsteps of Ugandan royalty. Clans and totems are an intrinsic part of Buganda culture. See the statues of animal totems that decorate the Royal Mile (Kabaka Anjagala). Interpretative guides can be organised through the Buganda Tourism and Heritage Board or at the booking office at entrance to the Bulange.
- Also in Mengo are Rubaga and Namirembe Cathedrals.
- Namugongo and the Uganda Martyrs: did you know that in June every year, hundreds of thousands of pilgrims congregate in Namugongo? Many walk from remote corners of East Africa to pay homage to the 22 Ugandan Christians who were executed for their faith in 1886 at Namugongo, a modern day site of pilgrimage and remembrance. June 3rd marks the Uganda Martyrs’ public holiday. Visit the Uganda Martyrs’ Museum and learn the heart-wrenching yet inspiring stories of these brave individuals. Read excerpts from letters recounting the events of 1886.
- The Gaddafi Mosque: climb the minaret for undoubtedly the best views of Kampala and admire the architectural grandeur of East Africa’s largest mosque. Female visitors will be asked to cover their heads (headscarves are provided).
- The Baha’i Temple: this architectural landmark can be seen from all over Kampala. It’s a serene tree-covered hill, and the first Baha’i House of Worship in Africa. A multidenominational Sunday service is open to all.
- Click here for more of Diary of a Muzungu’s ideas on things to do in Kampala
Want to explore Uganda from Kampala for a few days or more?
- Book a sunset cruise on Lake Victoria or half day sports fishing in search of Nile Perch.
- Organise a day trip from Entebbe to Ngamba Island chimpanzee sanctuary.
- Laze on the sandy beach on one of Lake Victoria’s Ssese Islands.
- Go birdwatching for Shoebill in Mabamba Bay.
Visiting Kampala for the first time?
Stay in Kampala for a while and your new friends will want to show you the markets and happening nightspots. But the best way to see the city’s landmarks is on a guided tour. Whether you have two hours to spare, or a whole day, there’s a long list of guides and tour companies who are ready to show you the best the city has to offer. A cautionary note: make sure you book with a registered guide or company.
How to tour Kampala
Given the choice, I prefer walking, ideally with a map and a guide. Being on foot gives you a chance to be spontaneous. Look up and around you, talk to people on the street. For an authentically Ugandan experience, you can even do a Kampala city tour on the back of a boda boda motorbike (but they’re not the safest, so make sure you wear a helmet and only book with a registered company).
If you’re trying to pack a lot in, you might prefer to be driven around in an air-conditioned vehicle. The choice is yours. Ready-made tours can easily be adapted to fit your interests. Want to stop for a local luwombo lunch? Fancy an hour in Nakasero market? It’s your tour, so specify what you want.
How can I help?
I work with tour operators, safari companies, guides, lodges and hotels across the country. If you’d like a recommendation, feel free to contact me. Alternatively, check out my Travel Directory or contact one of Uganda Tourism Board’s registered tour operators. And remember to say the muzungu sent you 😉
This blog post is based on an article that I wrote for ExploreUganda.com the official destination website for Uganda, managed by the Uganda Tourism Board.
Heroes of the jungle
Diary of a Muzungu meets some of Uganda’s unsung heroes of primate tracking: the human protectors of the country’s gorillas and chimpanzees
“BIG UPS” to the rangers and porters who look after visitors + wildlife + wild spaces across Uganda!
Last week I tracked the Posho family of gorillas in Nkuringo, southern Bwindi. What a magical day – a very entertaining Silverback and five fluffy bundles of baby gorilla were just a few of the day’s highlights.
We had a professional welcome at the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s reservations office in Nkuringo, not to mention lively singing, dancing and tons of info during our briefing.
If you’re tracking gorillas or hiking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, make sure you have more drinking water than you think you need. It’s easy to get dehydrated (I know, I have done it!) so bring two litres. Hire a porter, such as Eunice, pictured. She was very helpful. Not only did she carry my bag but she held my hand when we got to the steep, slippery bits! (We did both nearly end up in the water while crossing a river at one point!) We both giggled.
Thank you to UWA, Abaho, Levi, and Eunice for a perfect day in the forest.
There is plenty to do in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, a protected tropical rainforest and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The half-day walk through the forest between Nkuringo and Buhoma is magic! Read my account of Hiking the Ivy Trail with Nkuringo Safaris’ expert guides.
It’s one hell of a drive on the bumpy mountain roads from Buhoma (north of Bwindi) to Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo (to the south west) but the Muzungu did it!
What a gorgeous day for a drive. Round every corner appeared staggering views of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest: ancient trees covered the steep hillsides. Bejewelled bee-eaters and African emerald green cuckoos flashed across the road.
Another favourite destination is Kanyanchu visitor centre in Kibale Forest, three quarters of an hour’s walk from my home at Sunbird Hill. I checked in with UWA as part of my research for Fodor’s Travel.
I love the random encounters with friends, Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers such as Benson (pictured) and Alex (who gave the pre-tracking briefing to chimpers), and guides from Kampala. It’s always interesting to listen in on tourist conversations too! Kibale Cafe, adjacent to UWA’s Kanyanchu visitor centre is a vocational training cafe for the local community. They make a great cappuccino.
Did you know? UWA are habituating a third group of chimpanzees in Kibale Forest
The Dura group of chimps are named after a river that runs through this glorious tropical rainforest.
I’ve written extensively about gorilla tracking in Bwindi and Mgahinga and chimp tracking in Kibale Forest here on Diary of a Muzungu. In addition to updating the Complete Guide to the African Safari on behalf of Fodor’s Travel, I’m also recording a podcast episode about my favourite places. Expect plenty of insider info 😉
What’s next for the East Africa Travel Podcast & Blog by Diary of a Muzungu?
Production of Season 2 of the East Africa Travel Podcast by Diary of a Muzungu is in full swing. Chimpanzees have been regular guests; their PANT HOOTS and buttress drumming are regularly heard from my wooden house at Sunbird Hill. Some of season one’s expert primatologists include “self-confessed gorillaholic” Ian Redmond OBE, Professor Richard Wrangham (famous for his work with Kibale’s chimps) and the Nnaabagareka of Buganda, patron of Conservation Through Public Health, who work closely with gorillas. You can listen to the first 20 episodes of the podcast here and on all podcast directories. I always love your feedback!
How can I help you?
Start your journey < here > with travel inspiration, useful resources (travel health, tourist visas, National Park entry fees, Travel Directory and more, all regularly updated). As always, feel free to contact the Muzungu.
Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED]
This page is updated regularly and supercedes all previously published Uganda health-related travel info. Here I share updates on disease outbreaks and health screening at Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport.
Tropical diseases in Uganda
We praise the Pearl of Africa for her astounding biodiversity (so we shouldn’t be surprised that’s reflected in the bacteria and viruses too!) That said, the country is quick to nip outbreaks in the bud: Ebola, Marburg and Zika are just a few of that have hit the headlines. Thankfully, Uganda has high level support from international medical agencies, such as the US Center for Disease Control, and my advice to travelers is: try not to worry about any of these (very rare) diseases. (I’ve lived in Uganda for 15 years by the way). In my opinion, the Ministry of Health’s X account is the best source for the latest health info.
COVID-19 in Uganda – summary
Travelling through Entebbe Airport in 2025 and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or even “Yellow Fever certificate.” HALLELUJAH.
UPDATE MAY 2025: However, at the time of writing, a small number of cases of M-pox have been identified in Uganda (and Rwanda and the DRC) but we are not unduly worried. M-Pox is infectious but can easily be treated with antibiotics. As for Yellow Fever, you will need a certificate to complete your online application for a tourist visa or work permit. At immigration at Busia (Uganda Kenya) land border last week a sign said: Yellow Fever certificate is not requirement for returning Ugandans citizens. However it remains a requirement international travel. Kenyan immigration checked that everyone had a certificate.
Arrivals at Entebbe Airport
The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:
- Sanitise hands [now optional].
- Have documents checked:
- Yellow Fever certificate [see note above]
- Pass through immigration. (If you are a tourist, it’s imperative that you apply for your Uganda tourist visa online in advance. Some airlines will not allow you to board without your visa approval letter. For the latest info, read Uganda tourist visas and East Africa Tourist Visas. I frequently answer visa-related enquiries.
- Collect your checked-in luggage.
- If you need an ATM or Forex (foreign exchange), you can access both by the baggage carousel.
- Pass luggage (including cabin bags) through scanner.
- If you are a tourist, the Uganda Tourism Board has an information desk and seating just past the baggage collection area. UTB staff are on hand to make phone calls and order taxis, for example. This service is available for all tourists, 24 hours a day, even for those who travel independently. This initiative was spearheaded by Lilly Ajarova, former CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board.
- Entebbe Airport has free WiFi.
- Exit airport.
- Enjoy fabulous Ugandan weather!
Departures from Entebbe Airport
- (Although this advice is historical, I can’t confirm that every destination has removed pandemic restrictions).
- Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
- The muzungu adds: I advise having a screenshot or print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate. Print facilities are available at Entebbe Airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.
Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary
There’s a “neglible” risk of getting Yellow Fever in Uganda, however you will need to show proof of vaccination.
A Yellow Fever vaccination is now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. Got a question? In “Ask the Travel Doc,” Dr Natalie Prevatt answers traveler FAQs about Yellow Fever.
Which diseases should I worry about if I’m travelling to Uganda?
Your biggest health concern should be How to avoid malaria. I’m not medically qualified but I have plenty of personal tips to share, based on my 15 years living in Uganda. You might also enjoy Uganda travel advice I ignored!
Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? The Travel Directory has a list of tour operators who can help you plan a trip. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel questions.
Kampala and Nairobi by bus: the muzungu’s tips [UPDATED May 2025]
Taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Bus travel tips and visa info.
FIRST READ THIS COMPLAINT: On 13th May 2025, I took the 7:30 PM Mash East Africa bus from Nairobi to Kampala. The journey took 21 hours (River Road to Oceanic Terminal near Namboole). The bus broke down on the approach to Busia. I was alarmed by the poor customer service: staff told us to vacate the bus in such an unprofessional way that they almost caused a stampede (panic). I have sent a detailed letter of complaint to the general manager of Mash East Africa and am waiting for a reply. I will update this blog post once I have his response. In the meantime, I no longer recommend Mash buses. (I first wrote this blog post in 2016. The content on the rest of this page has not been updated since October 2022).
The East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post is regularly reviewed and updated. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].
Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey. Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up… over and over again.
We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?
The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.
Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.
The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat. My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.
Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.
The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.
Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.
My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.
According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).
Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi
NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.
- MASH buses leave on time.
- The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre.
- In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
- The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
- To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
- Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you.
Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi
(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).
Kampala to Nairobi
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.
Nairobi to Kampala
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.
MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.
- Make sure you have your Yellow Fever vaccination certificate.
- Keep photos of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone. Read why you must have your Yellow Fever Certificate here.
- Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
- Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
- Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border at no cost (although check the eTA electronic travel authorisation requirements before leaving home if you are going to Kenya).
- NOTE: the Kenyan eTA has replaced the tourist visa. Scroll down to read more.
- If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).
Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas
- Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
- East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
- Rwanda – All travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
- Kenya – Apply for your eTA (alternative system to a tourist visa)
- The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.
- The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
- In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
- Dreamline have also been recommended to me.
Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?
Serendipity in Mubende: the sacred Nakayima Tree
Have you visited the famous Nakayima Tree?
As regular readers know, I frequently travel between Kampala and Fort Portal to my home in Kibale Forest in western Uganda. Being on the bus, or sharing a ride with friends, means I have to stick to their route, making spontaneous detours a bit difficult… until last week!
I drove upcountry with my friend Andrew Roberts, cartographer and co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide. We chatted tourism non-stop for a few hours (as we do!) – the traditional site of Tanda Pits – spooky! A place to commune with the ancestors – but worth a visit; and the Nakayima Tree, tantalisingly close to Mubende (yet somewhere I still hadn’t been in person). I told Andy I had always wanted to see this centuries-old tree.
The journey was going well until the car engine suddenly stopped. Andy got it started again, but we were grateful to reach one of the bigger petrol stations at Mubende. As I sat in the car (munching the obligatory chicken muchomo and gonja), the mechanics dug around under the hood, and Andy poked his head in the window:
“They’re going to be another half hour here. Jump on a boda. Today’s your day to go see the Nakayima Tree!”
YES!
A few minutes’ drive through the back roads of Mubende, and the road winds uphill through rocky cliffs. Here, there are few people or houses, only open spaces and conifer plantations. It’s like a different world! Mubende, a long way below me now, seemed tiny.
Ten minutes later, and there it was: the Nakayima Tree, the sacred tree that I’ve been wanting to visit for years.
What or who is Nakayima?
Mubende Hill, one of the region’s highest points, was once a centre of power for the Bachwezi, the semi-divine dynasty who ruled much of the Great Lakes region before the rise of the Bantu kingdoms.
Nakayima is not the species of the tree but the name of a Princess who was the wife of King Ndahura, a prominent Bachwezi king. She is believed to have disappeared into the tree to become a part of the spirit world. Nakayima’s spirit is believed to inhabit the tree to this day.
The site of the Nakayima Tree is one of Uganda’s most important cultural heritage sites. The tree is visited today by people seeking blessings, healing, or spiritual connection.
Fenced off in 2024 (after an old branch fell on unlucky pilgrims), the tree is said to be over 1000 years old: 1,150 years old, according to my guide James (but a mere 650 years old according to other sources).
The Nakayima Tree’s tall buttress roots fan outward like natural walls, delineating distinct “rooms.” (I raised a quizzical eyebrow when my guide said the tree had one hundred such rooms). Here, pilgrims quietly place offerings — such as milk in calabashes — at the base of the roots, seeking blessings, or guidance.
Keen to convey a sense of mystery, my guide whispered “We cannot even say what species of tree it is….”
The site is simple and uncluttered, and (there is little of the litter you see in so many public places). It’s refreshingly uncommercial. On a Saturday afternoon in April, there were just a few dozen pilgrims, quietly contemplating. It was very peaceful.
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog and podcast
How can I find the Nakayima Tree?
- The tree stands on Mubende Hill (or Boma Hill), about 4 km north of Mubende town, approximately halfway between Kampala and Fort Portal. Here’s my review on Google Maps.
- I paid 10k Uganda shillings for entry and a guided tour. I can’t confirm that is the official price (only that is what I was charged!)
- It’s worth having a guide for the historical background and interpretation of everything around you.
- If driving upcountry, it’s a pleasant place to stop and stretch your legs. If you visit, be respectful: most people are here for spiritual reasons.
- The Nakayima Tree site is a low-key affair: two small shops sell sodas and snacks, but if you’re coming for a picnic or longer, you may want to pick up something in Mubende town.
A familiar face and a fun fan moment for Diary of a Muzungu
You never know who you will bump into on a road trip around Uganda! As I posed for photos in front of the Nakayima Tree, I was happy to hear someone calling “Madam Nagawa, is that you?” I last bumped into Blackfire De Lion (pictured) on the River Nile at Jinja.
A big thanks to the person who taught me how to write travel guides that sell – Miss Charlotte Beauvoisin.
Thank you Blackfire for your photos and the kind words — and for reminding me why I love what I do!
Have you visited the Nakayima Tree?
How was the experience (as a pilgrim, tourist, or simply a curious traveler like me)?
What else did the guide reveal to me about the Nakayima Tree? Sign up to my email newsletter to hear about future podcast episodes!
Falling in love with Bwindi all over again!
Who are the Kings of the Forest? And how have they transformed conservation and tourism in Uganda?
I tracked gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest just a few weeks ago. Every tracking is different, and the Posho group at Nkuringo gave us a magical hour on the edge of the forest — we even watched a female gorilla cross a river with a baby on her back. Delightful!
Sometimes I’m so busy travelling or researching a destination that I forget to simply be. Reconnecting with my purpose, being mindful, and immersing myself fully in wherever I am — that’s important.
Despite my recent “gorilla fix,” I was still curious to see what a major international media outlet like CNN would make of the mountain gorilla story. Their short documentary, “Kings of the Forest” filmed deep in the Impenetrable Forest, didn’t disappoint. As I told Dr Gladys “Watching the film made me fall in love with Bwindi and the gorillas all over again!”
It’s always interesting to see Uganda through someone else’s eyes. The film captures the timeless beauty of this 25,000-year-old forest — you read it right! — and its charismatic gorilla residents. The film follows vet Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka and the team from her NGO Conservation Through Public Health, and the Uganda Wildlife Authority, as they track the Rushegura group, examining nests and collecting samples to monitor their health.
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is one of Africa’s oldest and most biodiverse ecosystems; Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka has dedicated her life to protecting this population of mountain gorillas, building a conservation model that allows both humans and wildlife to thrive.
The narration is calm and clear, with forest birds, chimpanzees — and of course gorillas — adding a rich soundscape to every frame (much like what I try to create on the East Africa Travel Podcast).
It’s a joy to see familiar faces and places on the big screen. And interesting to think how CNN’s Kings of the Forest may stir something in international viewers: perhaps they’ll be inspired to visit Uganda and track gorillas with Dr Gladys, stay at Conservation Through Public Health’s camp in Buhoma, or buy a cup of Gorilla Conservation Coffee (ideal presents for friends back home).
Watch Kings of the Forest on CNN.
You might also like to read Walking With Gorillas, Dr Gladys’ memoir.
And there’s more!
I’ve written extensively about gorillas over the years, here on Diary of a Muzungu and for international guides. Whether you’re into gorilla conservation, or fancy tracking these great apes as part of a Uganda tour, read my Ultimate Guide to Gorilla Tracking or feel free to contact the Muzungu.
A visitor asks: should we reconsider travel because of Ebola? [OUTBREAK OVER]
A tourist from the United States asked: “should we reconsider travel to Uganda because of Ebola?” Simple answer: on April 26th 2025, the World Health Organization declared the Ebola outbreak finished after 42 days without any new infections.
The Muzungu writes: I often receive questions from potential visitors to Uganda. Here’s a copy of an email exchange I had with David in the United States. The Ebola outbreak is completely behind us now but I leave this post here simply for historical purposes.
Subject: Travel enquiry
I wanted to travel to Uganda soon, but the State Department says that because of ebola, we should reconsider travel to Uganda. Additionally, that if we do travel, we should expect flights to be cancelled. Finally, on arrival, we have to be taken to [New York (JFK), Newark (EWR), Atlanta (ATL), Chicago (ORD) or Washington (IAD)] designated airports for more screening before being released.
How is the situation? Have you heard of any flight cancellations from Uganda to the U.S because of ebola?
Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving.
The Muzungu replies:
Good morning David. Thanks for your message.
There is no reason why you should alter your travel plans. It’s most likely that you will go directly from Entebbe Airport to the National Parks and there are no reported cases in any of those areas.
Government information I saw yesterday says that we have had no new cases in 10 days. We have detailed contact tracing in place, based on decades of experience managing disease outbreak. World Health Organization, CDC (Center for Disease Control) and others are part of that process.
Most people are continuing to travel as normal. A few people have cancelled trips and a few people have postponed but note that Government advisories are always extremely cautious (often excessively so in the view of most us living in this corner of the world). We are pretty disturbed by how over the top the US / CDC are on this one. They are based on absolute worst case scenarios. We who live in Uganda feel the situation is under control.
If you have any more questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. I answer questions all the time from potential travelers.
Dear Charlotte
Thank you so much for your detailed and informative response. I couldn’t have asked for anything more. I was really scared after reading from the State Department and the CDC. Last thing you want is to be labelled as “an ebola carrier.”
If you say it is safe to go from the airport to the national parks, then I will talk to my friends so we can go from there. I hope you don’t mind if I share this email with my group with whom I am meant to travel. I want them to see it for themselves. They were all freaked out!
Thx again for the help Charlotte.
The Muzungu writes:
We’re all yearning to travel again post-pandemic so the last thing anyone wants to think about is Ebola…! Ebola is a contact disease, unlike coronavirus which is airborne, hence much easier to control, despite its devastating nature.
I regularly update several blogs, the most important being Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED]. Safe travels! And don’t hesitate to message me if you need a little reassurance from a Ugandan resident like me.
What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a lot of time (and money) applying for separate visas for the three countries: Kenya + Rwanda + Uganda. Most tourist visas are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.
1. Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
2. How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala, for example).
3. How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
4. Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, (former) Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new visa.
5. Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. The official line is that you cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa (although Rwanda states that you “may in exceptional circumstances.”To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below.
6. Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”
7. How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2024: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. For Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visas. For Rwanda, apply online in advance or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. Make sure you get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa online. Alternatively, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip.
NOTE: I have spent some time trying to understand Kenya’s eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation). Kenya claims it is now “visa free” yet most passport holders have to instead apply – and pay for – the eTA. Confused? Yes I was! Here’s Diary of a Muzungu’s advice on how to apply for Kenya’s eTA, along with some useful extra links below:
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa and Interstate Pass applications. (The Interstate Pass is available to East African residents).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, you can get your East Africa Tourist Visa on arrival. Read my blog post Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals, which I update regularly.
However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer. Use Irembo, the Rwandan government’s online visa application system. Click here to apply and look for ‘visa application.’ Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.”
For more guidance on the East Africa Tourist Visa in Rwanda, see Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa on the goevernment website.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the official Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to apply for your East Africa Tourist Visa. My blog Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more. I update these visa posts regularly.
You can also request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: immigration request a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration; they will always have the last word. If you do not have a detailed itinerary or evidence of where you will be staying, upload a letter explaining your plans, or immigration may deny you an EATV.
8. What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop!
NOTE: October 2024. I am reviewing the guidance for Kenya: scroll down for link to apply online for Interstate Pass.
Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.
In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.
March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.
9. Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
The East Africa Tourist Visa is only valid in Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda but we hope one day more countries will join the EATV party.
The East African Community has eight member states. In alphabetical order, these are:
- Democratic Republic of the CONGO
- Republic of BURUNDI
- Republic of KENYA
- Republic of RWANDA
- Federal Republic of SOMALIA
- Republic of SOUTH SUDAN
- Republic of UGANDA
- United Republic of TANZANIA
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.
Notes from friends and travelers regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who often make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
- If in doubt, it’s always best to apply online in advice and/or contact the muzungu. Don’t get stranded!
Any feedback or questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident and I regularly travel to Kenya and Rwanda. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues and visitors, supported by the advice of an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya (or wider East Africa) I’m your woman! What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
