Serendipity in Mubende: the sacred Nakayima Tree
Have you visited the famous Nakayima Tree?
As regular readers know, I frequently travel between Kampala and Fort Portal to my home in Kibale Forest in western Uganda. Being on the bus, or sharing a ride with friends, means I have to stick to their route, making spontaneous detours a bit difficult… until last week!
I drove upcountry with my friend Andrew Roberts, cartographer and co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide. We chatted tourism non-stop for a few hours (as we do!) – the traditional site of Tanda Pits – spooky! A place to commune with the ancestors – but worth a visit; and the Nakayima Tree, tantalisingly close to Mubende (yet somewhere I still hadn’t been in person). I told Andy I had always wanted to see this centuries-old tree.
The journey was going well until the car engine suddenly stopped. Andy got it started again, but we were grateful to reach one of the bigger petrol stations at Mubende. As I sat in the car (munching the obligatory chicken muchomo and gonja), the mechanics dug around under the hood, and Andy poked his head in the window:
“They’re going to be another half hour here. Jump on a boda. Today’s your day to go see the Nakayima Tree!”
YES!
A few minutes’ drive through the back roads of Mubende, and the road winds uphill through rocky cliffs. Here, there are few people or houses, only open spaces and conifer plantations. It’s like a different world! Mubende, a long way below me now, seemed tiny.
Ten minutes later, and there it was: the Nakayima Tree, the sacred tree that I’ve been wanting to visit for years.

What or who is Nakayima?
Mubende Hill, one of the region’s highest points, was once a centre of power for the Bachwezi, the semi-divine dynasty who ruled much of the Great Lakes region before the rise of the Bantu kingdoms.
Nakayima is not the species of the tree but the name of a Princess who was the wife of King Ndahura, a prominent Bachwezi king. She is believed to have disappeared into the tree to become a part of the spirit world. Nakayima’s spirit is believed to inhabit the tree to this day.
The site of the Nakayima Tree is one of Uganda’s most important cultural heritage sites. The tree is visited today by people seeking blessings, healing, or spiritual connection.
Fenced off in 2024 (after an old branch fell on unlucky pilgrims), the tree is said to be over 1000 years old: 1,150 years old, according to my guide James (but a mere 650 years old according to other sources).
The Nakayima Tree’s tall buttress roots fan outward like natural walls, delineating distinct “rooms.” (I raised a quizzical eyebrow when my guide said the tree had one hundred such rooms). Here, pilgrims quietly place offerings — such as milk in calabashes — at the base of the roots, seeking blessings, or guidance.
Keen to convey a sense of mystery, my guide whispered “We cannot even say what species of tree it is….”
The site is simple and uncluttered, and (there is little of the litter you see in so many public places). It’s refreshingly uncommercial. On a Saturday afternoon in April, there were just a few dozen pilgrims, quietly contemplating. It was very peaceful.

Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog and podcast
How can I find the Nakayima Tree?
- The tree stands on Mubende Hill (or Boma Hill), about 4 km north of Mubende town, approximately halfway between Kampala and Fort Portal. Here’s my review on Google Maps.
- I paid 10k Uganda shillings for entry and a guided tour. I can’t confirm that is the official price (only that is what I was charged!)
- It’s worth having a guide for the historical background and interpretation of everything around you.
- If driving upcountry, it’s a pleasant place to stop and stretch your legs. If you visit, be respectful: most people are here for spiritual reasons.
- The Nakayima Tree site is a low-key affair: two small shops sell sodas and snacks, but if you’re coming for a picnic or longer, you may want to pick up something in Mubende town.
A familiar face and a fun fan moment for Diary of a Muzungu
You never know who you will bump into on a road trip around Uganda! As I posed for photos in front of the Nakayima Tree, I was happy to hear someone calling “Madam Nagawa, is that you?” I last bumped into Blackfire De Lion (pictured) on the River Nile at Jinja.

A big thanks to the person who taught me how to write travel guides that sell – Miss Charlotte Beauvoisin.
Thank you Blackfire for your photos and the kind words — and for reminding me why I love what I do!
Have you visited the Nakayima Tree?
How was the experience (as a pilgrim, tourist, or simply a curious traveler like me)?
What else did the guide reveal to me about the Nakayima Tree? Sign up to my email newsletter to hear about future podcast episodes!
From peak to page: one woman’s story of adventure and purpose
“Echoes from Mountains of the Moon” by Dr. Lilly Ajarova
To mark International Women’s Day, I celebrate an extraordinary Ugandan woman: Dr. Lilly Ajarova, a lifelong champion of wildlife, conservation and tourism who has documented her most inspiring adventure – hiking to the 5,109 metre glacial summit of the Rwenzoris’ Margherita Peak – in Echoes from Mountains of the Moon.
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, I adore a travelogue! Lilly’s account ticks all the boxes for me; it’s a story of adventure, setting a personal goal and experiencing the wild in all its fabulousness!

Lilly’s book is endorsed by a number of eminent conservationists and adventurers:
Through Lilly’s eyes, you will marvel at the breath-taking beauty of the everchanging landscape of the fabled Mountains of the Moon. You will witness the extraordinary courage and endurance of this remarkable Ugandan woman as she conquers exhaustion and altitude sickness to reach the summit of Africa’s third-highest mountain. In Echoes from Mountains of the Moon, Lilly Ajarova highlights the urgent need to protect this awe-inspiring scenery and preserve the culture of the mountain people for generations to come. Echoes from Mountains of the Moon is a very inspiring story. It demonstrates the resilience of a woman with the heart of a lion. I wholeheartedly encourage you to read it and share its message with your friends.
Jane Goodall, PhD, DBE. Founder, Jane Goodall Institute & UN Messenger of Peace

People tackle the Rwenzori in different ways. Some simply climb to the top and then come down. Job done. Others, like Lilly Ajarova, immerse themselves in the mountain and absorb its unique meld of history, botany, meteorology, geology, hydrology, economics, tradition, culture, religion, warfare, wildlife, conservation and more. Lilly has been to the top of the Rwenzori and her keen eye has taken in all of the above facets of this fascinating massif. To her further credit, she has chosen to share her observations with us in Echoes from Mountains of the Moon. Of course, much has been written about the Rwenzori. Since Henry Stanley chronicled the first known ascent by his lieutenant, William Stairs in 1888, a veritable library has accumulated on the subject. In addition to their common theme, all of these preceding volumes have something else in common; all are written by men. Lilly’s memoir is, to the best of my knowledge, the first published offering from a female, which is all the better for it. To the shelves of books penned by (white) males, we can add a fresh and wide-ranging account by a Ugandan woman facing her greatest challenge. For the Rwenzori is not a realm to be entered lightly; it demands as much from the climber, in terms of physical and mental commitment, as it gives by way of its myriad rewards. Immerse yourself in the Rwenzori with Lilly Ajarova. Then – for how can you fail to be inspired by her tale – to climb this remarkable mountain yourself.
Andrew Roberts, Author, Mountaineer & Conservationist

A hike with a purpose
Lilly’s journey to the summit of the Rwenzoris was not just a personal triumph – her moments of doubt and utter exhaustion were so relatable – but also a call to action: nowhere is climate change more clearly visible than on the melting glaciers of Margherita Peak, Uganda’s highest point at 5109 metres. With the support of UNDP, Lilly and her team undertook this trek to highlight the threats to the Rwenzoris and the communities that depend on it.
This memoir chronicles that journey—a deeply personal one—that I hope will inspire you to visit these majestic mountains and support efforts to conserve their delicate ecosystems. Climbing the Rwenzoris is not for the faint of heart. The trails wind through lush forests, steep bamboo groves, and misty heather zones before the glaciers reveal themselves—both awe-inspiring and humbling. It is a path filled with challenges, both physical and mental.
Dr Lilly Ajarova, Author “Echoes from Mountains of the Moon”
Why the Rwenzoris matter
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park spans 996 square kilometres. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Ramsar site (for its wetlands) and an Important Bird Area (a site of international importance), being home to a remarkable diversity of “Albertine Rift endemics,” species that are uniquely found in this particular corner of our world. Protecting this ecosystem is crucial for biodiversity. Everything in nature is interconnected, including our own survival. The pandemic and the spread of zoonotic diseases (exacerbated by population growth and climate change) have brought this into sharp relief.

A personal note from Diary of a Muzungu
Lilly and I first met in 2009 when we worked with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. She was a director of UCF, and the CEO of Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary; I was UCF’s marketing development manager, and a VSO volunteer. In a blog post from 2021, “The euphoric Rwenzoris” on Diary of a Muzungu, Lilly shared her personal feelings about climbing Uganda’s highest peak. Her words resonated deeply with me and I was honoured to be invited to help edit her book.
A celebration of conservation and tourism
The book launch, at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s poolside, was a gathering of Uganda’s tourism champions and friends, as well as the team who climbed with Lilly and shared her passion – and exhaustion! – after this tough nine-day expedition. Coincidentally, the event also marked the end of her tenure as CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board, a position she held for six years.

Where to buy “Echoes from Mountains of the Moon”
For those eager to read Lilly’s inspiring journey:
- Hardback copies are available at Aristoc Bookshop in Kampala at UGX 80,000.
- The e-book is available on Amazon.com
- You can also order directly through Lilly’s website.

I know from my own experience climbing Mount Elgon (at 4321 metres) how demanding these multi-day mountaineering hikes are. (I still want to climb the Rwenzoris but reading Lilly’s experience is sobering and a reminder of the many months training you need to put in).
I recently did the one-day hike of Karungura Peak, climbing over a thousand metres above Bundibugyo, into Rwenzori Mountains National Park and down towards Fort Portal. It was tough! For most of the six-hour hike, we climbed. (At least that’s how it felt!) For the next two days, every part of me ached: my feet, my hips, my thighs, my everything! One day was enough. Could I possibly keep going the next day, and the next and the next, as a climb to Margherita or Weissmann’s, for example, demands? Our Karungura hike coincided nicely with Lilly’s book editing project; the two experiences have made me even more curious about exploring this incredible mountain, its waterfalls, fifty lakes and funky vegetation.
Lessons from the mountains for women everywhere
Lilly’s story is a reminder that real change starts with individuals who care enough to act. Whether we support conservation initiatives, try to reduce our carbon footprint, or simply keep physically and mentally fit so we can support the people around us, we all have a role to play. On this Women’s Day, let’s celebrate Lilly’s achievements by taking steps – big or small – to protect the wild places and its creatures that she so passionately champions.
Celebrate 90 years of sailing on Lake Victoria
Where better to spend a HOT Saturday than on the shores of Lake Victoria? 🌊🌊🌊 Programme of events for the next week 😎
90 years ago a group met on the shores of Lake Victoria and decided to start a sailing club. This Saturday 22 February, you are invited to celebrate Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club’s ‘Granite’ Jubilee 90th Anniversary at the club in Kaazi.

A full day of activities is planned – for the whole family – starting with the Recycled Raft Races on the lake (an annual event for kids) and Exhibitions about Recycling from 9AM. The afternoon’s activities include tree planting and the official opening ceremony of the Granite Jubilee at 3PM. (Live music and barbecue
will follow until late, but tickets for the evening event are now sold out).

Celebrate the club’s history, hang out with friends, sign up to a sailing course(?) and learn more about innovative recycling ideas to combat plastic pollution…
Entry fees for the morning’s Recycled Boat Races and Recycling Exhibition / Market
10k adult & 5k child (with additional fees for snacks and drinks at the bar). The event is open to the public, but please book in advance with Kiwanda Emmanuel +256 755 159732.
For bookings & enquiries
Kiwanda Emmanuel +256 755 159732 can advise on all bookings (EXCEPT for the dinner and quiz night at Makindye Country Club. For that event, see the number on the flyer).

Note: the party is only the start of a full week of celebrations!
- 📢 Saturday February 22: Recycled raft race and Granite Jubilee Party at Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club, Kaazi, Busabala [EVENING EVENT SOLD OUT]
- 📢 Sunday February 23: Granite Jubilee Trophy Race at VNSC
- 📢 Tuesday February 25: Dinner and quiz night at Makindye Country Club
- 📢 Weds / Thurs February 26 – 27: Sailing Clinic with Olympian Mickey Beckett (limited spots, pre-registration required)
- 📢 Friday February 28 – Sunday March 2: Uganda Laser Open 2025

The Victoria Nyanza Sailing Club hope you will join them for these events BUT remember to book in advance 😎
Heroes of the jungle
Diary of a Muzungu meets some of Uganda’s unsung heroes of primate tracking: the human protectors of the country’s gorillas and chimpanzees
“BIG UPS” to the rangers and porters who look after visitors + wildlife + wild spaces across Uganda!
Last week I tracked the Posho family of gorillas in Nkuringo, southern Bwindi. What a magical day – a very entertaining Silverback and five fluffy bundles of baby gorilla were just a few of the day’s highlights.
We had a professional welcome at the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s reservations office in Nkuringo, not to mention lively singing, dancing and tons of info during our briefing.


If you’re tracking gorillas or hiking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, make sure you have more drinking water than you think you need. It’s easy to get dehydrated (I know, I have done it!) so bring two litres. Hire a porter, such as Eunice, pictured. She was very helpful. Not only did she carry my bag but she held my hand when we got to the steep, slippery bits! (We did both nearly end up in the water while crossing a river at one point!) We both giggled.

Thank you to UWA, Abaho, Levi, and Eunice for a perfect day in the forest.
There is plenty to do in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, a protected tropical rainforest and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The half-day walk through the forest between Nkuringo and Buhoma is magic! Read my account of Hiking the Ivy Trail with Nkuringo Safaris’ expert guides.

It’s one hell of a drive on the bumpy mountain roads from Buhoma (north of Bwindi) to Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo (to the south west) but the Muzungu did it!
What a gorgeous day for a drive. Round every corner appeared staggering views of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest: ancient trees covered the steep hillsides. Bejewelled bee-eaters and African emerald green cuckoos flashed across the road.
Another favourite destination is Kanyanchu visitor centre in Kibale Forest, three quarters of an hour’s walk from my home at Sunbird Hill. I checked in with UWA as part of my research for Fodor’s Travel.

I love the random encounters with friends, Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers such as Benson (pictured) and Alex (who gave the pre-tracking briefing to chimpers), and guides from Kampala. It’s always interesting to listen in on tourist conversations too! Kibale Cafe, adjacent to UWA’s Kanyanchu visitor centre is a vocational training cafe for the local community. They make a great cappuccino.
Did you know? UWA are habituating a third group of chimpanzees in Kibale Forest
The Dura group of chimps are named after a river that runs through this glorious tropical rainforest.
I’ve written extensively about gorilla tracking in Bwindi and Mgahinga and chimp tracking in Kibale Forest here on Diary of a Muzungu. In addition to updating the Complete Guide to the African Safari on behalf of Fodor’s Travel, I’m also recording a podcast episode about my favourite places. Expect plenty of insider info 😉
What’s next for the East Africa Travel Podcast & Blog by Diary of a Muzungu?
Production of Season 2 of the East Africa Travel Podcast by Diary of a Muzungu is in full swing. Chimpanzees have been regular guests; their PANT HOOTS and buttress drumming are regularly heard from my wooden house at Sunbird Hill. Some of season one’s expert primatologists include “self-confessed gorillaholic” Ian Redmond OBE, Professor Richard Wrangham (famous for his work with Kibale’s chimps) and the Nnaabagareka of Buganda, patron of Conservation Through Public Health, who work closely with gorillas. You can listen to the first 20 episodes of the podcast here and on all podcast directories. I always love your feedback!
How can I help you?
Start your journey < here > with travel inspiration, useful resources (travel health, tourist visas, National Park entry fees, Travel Directory and more, all regularly updated). As always, feel free to contact the Muzungu.
Hanging up the boots for the holidays – 2024’s best bits
A big THANK YOU from Diary of a Muzungu & the East Africa Travel Podcast!
As we “hang up our boots” for the holidays, here’s a:
💚 Thank you to everyone who reads Diary of a Muzungu. In 2024, the blog has focused on practical travel advice, with my creative energy channelled into 🎧 the East Africa Travel Podcast. Season 1 (20 episodes so far) has been a labour of love – and a lot of fun too!

🎁 Thank you to everyone who has been part of the podcast: my fascinating guests* and my listeners. I’ve loved all your feedback 💚 please keep it coming!
🎁 To everyone I trained with this year: what a great learning experience! (I now train tour operators in sustainable tourism, in addition to digital marketing).
🎁 A special shout-out to my friend, Prof. Wolfgang Thome, for sharing my podcasts and stories on his website and to my support team: my awesome sound recordist Bryan Kisembo and trusted web developer of many years, Sam Risbond.
In festive newsletter tradition, highlights of 2024 included:
🐘 Proofreading the latest edition of Andrew Roberts’ fantastic Uganda Safari book. I devoured every page of hand-written maps, historical photos – and his irrepressible humour!

🧾 I was delighted when the Uganda Tourism Board invited me to join the judging panel at Uganda’s Sustainable Tourism Awards at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo. Thank you Lilly Ajarova! Here’s my story about the winners.
🔥 World Tourism Day celebrations in Kasese were HOT HOT HOT 🔥 The midday sun shone on the shiny new Equator Monument at Kikorongo, Queen Elizabeth National Park.
🗻 My work year ended at the foot of Mount Elgon – training staff from tourism projects from all corners of north / eastern Uganda.

🌊 Mombasa and Diani are two of the Kenyan destinations we’ll be featuring in Season 2 of the East Africa Travel Podcast, loading in 2025: turtle conservation along Diani’s beaches, and an epic journey from Kampala to Nairobi and Mombasa (think: bus, SGR train, ferry and a tuk tuk ride through Old Town Mombasa!)
🎙A feature in the Sunday Monitor was a great boost for my podcast: What people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast. (Thank you Tony Musho!)
🌍 Looking ahead, 2025 kicks off with a research trip for Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari, a guide I’m updating for the third time. 🦁
NEW TO DIARY OF A MUZUNGU? … Start your journey < here > with travel inspiration, useful resources (travel health, tourist visas, National Park entry fees, Travel Directory and more, all regularly updated).
🎄 🎁 Thank you for being part of my 2024. Wishing you an adventurous New Year!
As always, feel free to contact the Muzungu.
Entebbe Airport essentials: baggage & tax
What travelers need to know about revised baggage and tax policies at Entebbe Airport.
Planning a trip to Uganda or returning home after some time abroad? Whether you’re a first-time tourist, a returning resident or expat, or basummer visiting family and friends, it’s essential to be aware of the revised baggage clearance procedures at Entebbe International Airport, announced in July 2024. Here’s a rundown of what you need to know to avoid any surprises at the airport. The updated baggage clearance procedures are crucial for all travelers to understand, especially when it comes to bringing gifts or second-hand items.

Looking for the latest travel health advice at Entebbe Airport? Click here.
The Muzungu adds: when expats travel back to their home country, we often bring back little treats that you just can’t get in Uganda! Marmite, crumpets, dark chocolate digestive biscuits, and Coleman’s English mustard are high on my list! You might not be aware, but we’re not supposed to bring in second-hand laptops, for example, that well-meaning relatives would like to donate to a worthy cause. I’ve never had any problems with customs at Entebbe, but I know they keep a watchful eye on Ugandans who return home with bulging suitcases!
All passenger baggage is scanned at Entebbe Airport after passport control. “If scanner images show any items concealed/hidden, the baggage will be subjected to physical examination by a Customs Officer in the presence of the passenger.” Here’s what you need to know:
Key changes to baggage allowances at Uganda’s Entebbe Airport (and their tax implications)
No. 1. Higher allowances – better baggage values for travelers:
- The allowable limit for the value of passenger baggage has been increased from USD 500 to USD 2000.
- Important notes: This allowance is for personal use only and does not apply to gifts, items for sale, or goods you plan to distribute. This allowance applies to passengers who have been outside Uganda for more than 24 hours.
- The exemption does not apply to goods sent by others for delivery to someone else.
No. 2. Declaring to URA? Bring receipts:
Passengers must declare their baggage to URA officers and provide authentic receipts in the names of the traveling passenger, confirming the value of the items.
No. 3. Know before you go: info for traders
- “Dutiable” goods exceeding 50kg in commercial value will be transferred to the cargo terminal for customs clearance. Here, traders will have to use their tax identification numbers.
- Included in this category are phones and phone accessories, shoes, perfumes, vehicle spare parts, and IT equipment.
No. 4. Be aware of prohibited and restricted items
- Prohibited items include used fridges, second-hand computers/laptops, TVs (and even second-hand underwear!). You may ask: why are used laptops prohibited yet Ugandan schools in rural areas can’t afford to buy new ones? According to the URA, “Used computers were prohibited in the Finance Act of 2009. This is largely aimed at protecting the environment. When the government banned used computers, it dropped the import duty to 0% for new laptops.”
- Restricted items require clearance before you enter Uganda. Examples include drones and animal products or items related to wildlife. Penalties for importing or exporting wildlife products (elephant or hippo ivory, teeth, animal skins, pangolin scales, and more) are very high.
No. 5. Booze and smokes: Duty-free allowances explained:
Call this a party? Hmmm. You’re allowed to bring in the following without paying duty:
- Spirits: Up to 1 litre
- Wine: Up to 2 litres
- Perfumes and eau de toilette: Up to 250ml
- Tobacco/cigarettes: Up to 250 grams
No. 6. Kuli kayo! Welcome home: What you can bring tax-free as a returning resident:
- Ugandan residents returning after at least one year abroad can bring personal and household effects without paying taxes, provided the items were used in their previous residence. These individuals will also clear their items through the cargo terminal.
- Prohibited items will be forfeited “after payment of the applicable penalty.”
No. 7. Pay taxes quickly (to avoid the cargo terminal):
- Passengers who arrive with goods they need to pay duty on must pay the relevant taxes within two hours to avoid congestion. Non-compliance will result in the baggage being transferred to the cargo terminal.
This information is based on my summary of an article published by the Uganda Revenue Authority.
I haven’t listed all restricted or prohibited items because I’m not an expert (just a regular traveller who likes sharing a few tips). For more information about customs, read URA Customs FAQs.
I regularly travel through Entebbe Airport. If you have any questions about visas, travel health – or any other aspect of travel to Uganda, you’ll find this page very helpful.
Looking for a tour operator or lodge? Check out my travel directory.
How much does it cost to track mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
How much are gorilla tracking permits in Uganda and Rwanda?

A gorilla tracking permit includes entry into the National Park, experienced ranger guides who will escort you while sharing unlimited gorilla facts, one hour with the gorillas themselves and – most importantly – bragging rights in the form of a gorilla tracking certificate (in Uganda) and endless selfies (wherever you track!) Woo hoo!
The permit is just one part of the equation of course: you also need to cover transport, accommodation, meals, tips and souvenirs…
How much are Uganda gorilla tracking permits?
Uganda gorilla tracking fees – (Bwindi & Mgahinga) July 2024 – June 2026 | Gorilla tracking permit | Gorilla habituation experience |
---|---|---|
Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 800 | USD 1,500 |
Foreign resident (expats) in Uganda | USD 700 | USD 1,000 |
Rest of Africa | USD 500 | USD 1,000 |
Ugandans & EAC citizens | UGX 350,000 | UGX 750,000 |
UWA’s price list or “conservation tariff” covers: National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees; gorilla / chimpanzee tracking; boat rides; game drives; nature walks; volcano and mountain hiking, and biking. Prices are for international tourists (foreign non-residents), foreign residents (expats) and East African citizens, including Ugandans (domestic tourists). Read a summary of UWA’s fees for 2024 to 2016 (with links to some of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite blogs).
How much are Rwanda gorilla tracking permits?
UPDATE 2024: Until 31 December 2024, Rwandans, expats and all Africans can track gorillas in Rwanda at the discounted prices listed above.
Rwanda gorilla tracking fees (2024 fees) | Gorilla tracking permit |
---|---|
Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 1,500 |
Foreign residents in Africa (expats) including Rwanda | USD 500 |
African citizens | USD 500* |
Rwandans & EAC citizens | USD 200* |
- After repositioning itself as an upmarket tourist destination, in May 2017 Rwanda increased gorilla tracking permits to $1500 each, regardless of whether you were an international tourist, expat or East African residents. That sounds like a bum deal for local people (but RDB argue that only a tiny percentage of permits were sold to locals).
- Rwanda has an exclusive package for tourists who would like to book a whole family of gorillas. Priced at US$ 15,000, the group get access to exclusive personalised tour guiding.
- Visitors to Rwanda who track the gorillas and visit Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Parks for a minimum of three days will qualify for a 30% discount on their gorilla permit.
- International visitors attending conferences in Rwanda are eligible for a 15% discount on gorilla permit fees if tracking the gorillas before or after their conference.
How much are DRC gorilla tracking permits?
Gorilla tracking permits in the DRC are very cheap by comparison. Congolese citizens have preferential pricing but other East Africans don’t.
What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
For the best value for money, most visitors to East Africa will combine gorilla trekking with a Safari before or after their trip.
Booking your gorilla permits yourself and travelling by public transport is possible but there are pitfalls to be aware of. The downside of making your own arrangements is that you can sometimes end up incurring more costs. If, for example, you miss your bus or it breaks down (not uncommon) you might miss your gorilla trek. Permits are non-refundable, meaning if you arrive a day late, then you will have missed your slot. Most visitors therefore travel on a scheduled group tour or book their own driver and vehicle, usually through a tour company, such as one of the registered companies featured in my Travel Directory.
The other pitfall to avoid when arranging gorilla tracking yourself in Uganda is booking accommodation that is a long way from the gorilla family you are tracking. You will have to be up very early on the morning of your tracking so you want to stay as close as possible to the park headquarters. (Uganda’s gorilla families are spread several hours apart).
The average mid-range three day gorilla safari costs approximately $1200, depending on the number of people in your group. The cheapest way to see the gorillas is to travel on a scheduled overland trip during low season. If a tour is advertised to include gorilla tracking then the cost of the permit should be included in the price you are quoted, but do read the small print carefully!
A top of the range luxury gorilla Safari may cost $3 – $5,000 per person and may include fly-in options and five-star accommodation.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the links in the
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast
“Novel ways a podcast is promoting Ugandan tourism”
Dear Reader – and Listener? How is your life? As we say in UG.
Thank you to everyone who’s listened to the first episodes of The East Africa Travel Podcast. It’s fantastic to hear all your feedback!
Listen on Diary of a Muzungu – just click here 😉
“It’s amazing to hear the sounds of the jungle while I wait for my train in Lisbon” said my Portuguese friend Ana.
What to listen to first? 🎧
- The 3 minute Trailer. Recognise the wild sounds at the start?
- Episode 1 Welcome to my world! A glimpse of life at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale National Park.
- Episode 2 Chimps, elephants and how I ended up in Uganda. Who am I? Which guests am I hosting? And how can I help you?
- In episode 3, the Nnaabagereka, Queen Sylvia of Buganda tracks the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
- In episode 4, Uganda’s sports tourism ambassador and British TV personality Rob Walker Tickles a rhino and bows to the Shoebill.
- In Episode 6, I am fascinated by every word uttered by primatologist / anthropologist Prof Richard Wrangham!
- In episode 9 guidebook author Philip Briggs and I are high up in the birdhide at Sunbird Hill.
- In episode 10, we watch “Warring warthogs on a walking safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park. I stay at the luxurious Honey Bear Camp, the only private concession in Kyambura Game Reserve (Wildplaces)
- In episode 7, I’m mesmerised by powerful Maasai music and uplifting conversations about sustainable tourism at the Original Maasai Lodge in Tanzania.
- In episode 11, hear why ecologist and field researcher Chris Ketola loves snakes and adores bats!
- In episode 13, entomologist Dr Michael Ochse and I examine the 100s of moths and insects buzzing around our heads one dark night!
- In episodes 15 and 16, I spend time with renowned conservationist and “self-confessed gorillaholic who’s been obsessed for 40 years!” Time with the irrepressible Ian Redmond OBE is always a learning experience.
- In Episode 20, listen out for baboons during my live chat with Pam Cunneyworth of Colobus Conservation of Diani, Kenya.
- And in between all the scintillating conversations… it’s just you and me, ambling along in nature, taking in the rich backdrop of birds and wildlife… you never know what we will hear and see together.

- Season 1 comprises 20 podcast episodes, all here on Diary of a Muzungu and all podcast directories. Season 2 is loading…
- Where next? Jinja in Uganda; Mombasa and Diani in Kenya; news from Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo and the Sustainable Tourism Summit in Kenya – and Kibale Forest, of course!
- Who are my next guests? Harriet Owalla (Kenyan travel journalist), Ikechi Uko (Nigerian and West African tourism guru), Rowan Martin (World Parrot Trust), Diani Turtle Watch … and many more lined up.
The Muzungu has a request! 🙏🏻
I would LOVE you to:
- Listen to the podcast’s 3 minute Trailer + at least one episode
- Share the podcast with your friends and everyone interested in travel in / to East Africa and the natural world
- Leave a Review + add a comment.
- Why? Because reviews + ratings mean my podcast will be shown to a wider audience. Help me tell more people about this fabulously beautiful corner of our world.
Are you on Spotify?
Then click here + listen + Follow + write a short review ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐😎
Do you listen on Apple Podcasts?
Go to the Apple Podcasts Show description to write a review ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ and we’ll be friends forever 😍

The East Africa Travel Podcast is hosted by Charlotte Beauvoisin, AKA Nagawa🐒 author of Diary of a Muzungu
Thanks to everyone who’s listened to the first episodes! Season 2 is loading… got an idea for a podcast guest or topic? Send me a message.
New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😁🦍🌳🦁
Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu!
Visiting this blog for the first time? Here are popular pages I just know you’ll like:
*Launched 2024* The East Africa Travel Podcast is my biggest project in a long time. Tune in for the sounds of nature, inspiring conversations with award-winning travel writers and conservationists (and strictly positive vibes). Read what people are saying about the East Africa Travel Podcast. I’d love to hear your thoughts too!

Coming to Uganda to work, volunteer or simply live?
Read Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats and Is Uganda safe? (expats share their experiences about life in Uganda).
Looking for a tour operator in Uganda? Advice on tourist visas?
If you’re looking for travel inspiration, you’re in the right place! I’ve been to almost every corner of Uganda, but sometimes you just want some basic travel advice:
- Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly! UPDATED OCTOBER 2024
- Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport UPDATED OCTOBER 2024
- Guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa (Uganda Rwanda Kenya) UPDATED OCTOBER 2024
- Is Kenya really “visa free”? How to apply for the eTA UPDATED OCTOBER 2024
- The Travel Directory lists registered tour operators, accommodation and things to do in Uganda. New listings are added regularly 😎
- You can also read reviews of Uganda tour operators on SafariBookings, the largest online marketplace for African safari tours.
Going on safari?
- Guide to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s fees (2024 – 2026). is the complete price list or ‘conservation tariff’ for all National Parks, Wildlife Reserves, gorilla permits, game drives, mountain climbing and more. UPDATED 2024
- Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas a multi-page guide UPDATED 2024
- Uganda’s National Parks a page on each of the country’s ten National Parks
I regularly travel around Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania. I have visited – and researched – a long list of places that don’t always make it onto Diary of a Muzungu, since I also write for guidebooks, lodges, tourism boards and tour operators. If you don’t find the info you need here, feel free to contact me directly.
Who is Diary of a Muzungu?
Read a bit About me, some Interviews and my Portfolio of writing for other publications. Do get in touch! 😎
Random Uganda that will make you smile
Diary of a Muzungu comprises 100s of personal stories, travel reviews, wildlife encounters (and dating disasters!) Here are a few favourites.
- What makes the Pearl of Africa so special? Read the ever-popular 50 reasons why I love Uganda (with over 100,000 page views)
- Pant hoots and knuckle spins. Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest on the doorstep of my forest home
- Are Muzungus all rich? Apparently!
- Ants in my pants insects EEEEH!
- How to feed a baby elephant … cute! but the truth is shocking
- Were Toto right about Africa? remember that song?
- My local name is Nagawa but what does it mean? And how did I get this charming name? Read Bwindi – eye to eye with my totem
- Downtown dreadlocks – the muzungu’s blind date
- Grateful every day is dedicated to my home at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest AKA “how nature saved me.” Life at Sunbird Hill inspired me to launch the podcast (season 2 loading…)
Want the latest news in your inbox? Then sign up to Diary of a Muzungu’s newsletter!
Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know [UPDATED]
As a rule, all Ugandan tourist visas and work permits must be applied for online BEFORE you travel. However: October 2024 the official Uganda visa application portal was temporarily out of service. It is now back online (October 14).
“Due to ongoing e-immigration system upgrade travellers are unable to access online visa services. As a temporary measure to minimise travel disruptions, airlines should allow travellers destined for Uganda to board without prior e-visa approval. Please note that this exemption is temporary until our e-visa system is restored.”

Which nationals need to pay for a visa to enter Uganda?
Click here to see the “List of visa exempt nationalities. If your nationality is on the list, you don’t need to apply for a visa to enter Uganda.
How to apply for Ugandan tourist visa?
The Ugandan government’s online electronic visa application system is mandatory for applying for all Ugandan visas, including: entry permit (work permit), Uganda tourist visa, multiple entry visa, transit visa, East Africa tourist visa, student pass, diplomatic visa, official visa, special pass, Certificate of Residence and dependent’s pass.
Requests for tourist visas, passes and work permits (E-Visa and E-permits) should be completed via this link on the official Uganda immigration website.
Applicants for all immigration services such as visas, work permits and passes will be required to apply and pay online, and an electronic notification / authorisation will be sent to the applicant before proceeding to the preferred Entry Point e.g. Entebbe International Airport or the nearest Uganda Mission abroad for the visa to be issued. Uganda has 22 official ‘points of entry’ border posts. Entebbe International Airport has the majority of tourist arrivals, followed by Katuna / Gatuna (Rwanda) and Busia and Malaba (Kenya border).
Are you travelling to Uganda? Apply for a Ugandan visa online
Apply at least ONE MONTH prior to travel. (However, some applications are approved in hours, others days, some not at all… if you apply too early, your visa approval may even get cancelled and you’re unlikely to get your money back).
Be prepared. You need to complete the online application in one sitting. The online application does not allow you to save your information and return to the screen later.
NOTE: COVID-19 vaccination certificates and negative PCR test results are no longer required. HOORAY. For more info on the exact documents needed, according to the type of visa you are applying for, go to the Uganda immigration web site general information page.

If you’re applying for a single entry Uganda tourist visa, you’ll need to upload:
- Passport bio-data page (with validity of at least 6 months)
- Recent passport-size photo (for example US or UK passport photo size (not Canadian size, which is larger, apparently).
- Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate. Read Frequently Asked Questions from travelers about Yellow Fever in Uganda – with advice from a tropical medicine doctor.
- Return ticket. Return ticket / tour itinerary. In reality, not all travellers have these so an alternative is to write and upload a letter detailing your onward travel plans.
The files you upload can’t be bigger than 250kb (that’s pretty small!) so resize all your docs before you start the application process. Only PDF, JPEG, PNG and BMP files are accepted.
The Uganda immigration web site details the fees for applying for Ugandan visas online.
Pay online for your Uganda tourist visa. Only Mastercard and Visa are accepted online and there is a 3% surcharge for online payment. In 2024, the single entry Uganda tourist visa fee is $50: $51.50 for the visa and $1.50 admin fee. For more info about the tourist visa, work permit and pass fees, the website of Africa Immigration Advisory Services, Kampala is very helpful.
When you complete the visa application process, make a note of your application number! You may need this in case you have to follow up. Otherwise, click here to retrieve your Uganda visa application ID but some people say this hasn’t always worked.
The decision taken on the online application (“yes” or “no” on whether you’re coming to Uganda) will be sent via email. Assuming you get the go-ahead, your visa approval letter will be sent as an email attachment. You’re advised to print this travel authorisation (showing a barcode) and keep this with your travel documents (although it is not mandatory apparently). However, Ugandans do love printed papers so print everything you can, just to avoid unforeseen delays.
Present the barcode at point of entry [that will be “Entebbe Airport” if you’re entering Uganda by air] together with a valid passport / travel document of “not less than 6 months validity” and you should get your tourist visa. You can get a maximum of 90 days in one go; if you want that, say so, otherwise you may just be given two weeks for example. Present the barcode at point of entry [that will be “Entebbe Airport” if you’re entering Uganda by air] with your valid passport of “not less than 6 months validity” and you should get your tourist visa. You can get a maximum of 90 days in one go; if you want that, say so, otherwise you may just be given two weeks for example. Visitors to Uganda can stay for up to 6 months on a single entry tourist visa, without being charged anything extra. To get an extension on the days written in your passport at Entebbe, go to one of the immigration offices, for example Jinja Road in Kampala.
NOTE: “the travel authorization [approval] letter does not guarantee entry into Uganda. Travelers will be subjected to secondary verification where necessary before personalization,” meaning it is not 100% guarantee you will be issued a visa at the airport / border / Uganda mission (but you probably will, unless you’ve been very naughty indeed).
For answers to Frequently Asked Questions, go to the Uganda immigration Help page.
As you’ll see from many comments below, lots of visa applications get stuck at the “pending” stage. This is normally because the applicant has forgotten to send in one of the documents, or immigration are requesting more information (but frequently aren’t clear what that is!) There have been lots of complaints about emails not being answered but Uganda immigration do reply fairly quickly via their Facebook page. If you’re telephoning Uganda Immigration, the country code for Uganda is +256.

The Directorate for Citizenship and Immigration’s call centre is open from 7am to 7pm Uganda time (with plans for it to be operated 24 hours at some stage). Call +256 417 102600 or toll-free 0800 199004 / 0800 199003 in Uganda.


In addition to visa requirements, every traveller has to consider health-related protocols. These are subject to change. For what to expect when passing through Uganda’s international airport, read Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport (updated regularly). I also have a post about the East Africa Tourist Visa and a post on Rwanda’s visa on arrival.
Any feedback or questions about Ugandan tourist visas? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues, visitors to Uganda and advice from an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, or moving to Uganda, I’m your woman! I’ve been advising travellers and expats on everything Uganda-related for many years. What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED]
This page is updated regularly and supercedes all previously published Uganda health-related travel info. Here I share updates on disease outbreaks and health screening at Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport.
Tropical diseases in Uganda
We praise the Pearl of Africa for her astounding biodiversity (so we shouldn’t be surprised that’s reflected in the bacteria and viruses too!) That said, the country is quick to nip outbreaks in the bud: Ebola, Marburg and Zika are just a few of that have hit the headlines. Thankfully, Uganda has high level support from international medical agencies, such as the US Center for Disease Control, and my advice to travelers is: try not to worry about any of these (very rare) diseases. (I’ve lived in Uganda for 15 years by the way). In my opinion, the Ministry of Health’s X account is the best source for the latest health info.
COVID-19 in Uganda – summary
UPDATE September 2024: I have been through Entebbe Airport this month and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or even “Yellow Fever certificate.” HALLELUJAH.
At the time of writing, a small number of cases of M-pox have been identified in Uganda (and Rwanda and the DRC) but we are not unduly worried. M-Pox is infectious but can easily be treated with antibiotics.

Arrivals at Entebbe Airport
The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:
- Sanitise hands [now optional].
- Have documents checked:
- Yellow Fever certificate [mine wasn’t checked in September 2024].
- Pass through immigration. (If you are a tourist, it’s imperative that you apply for your Uganda tourist visa online in advance. Some airlines will not allow you to board without your visa approval letter. For the latest info, read Uganda tourist visas and East Africa Tourist Visas. I frequently answer visa-related enquiries.
- Collect your checked-in luggage.
- If you need an ATM or Forex (foreign exchange), you can access both by the baggage carousel.
- Pass luggage (including cabin bags) through scanner.
- If you are a tourist, the Uganda Tourism Board has an information desk and seating just past the baggage collection area. UTB staff are on hand to make phone calls and order taxis, for example. This service is available for all tourists, 24 hours a day, even for those who travel independently. This initiative is spearheaded by Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board.
- Entebbe Airport has free WiFi.
- Exit airport.
- Enjoy fabulous Ugandan weather!
Departures from Entebbe Airport
- (Although this advice is historical, I can’t confirm that every destination has removed pandemic restrictions).
- Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
- The muzungu adds: I advise having a screenshot or print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate. Print facilities are available at Entebbe Airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.
Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary
There’s a “neglible” risk of getting Yellow Fever in Uganda, however you will need to show proof of vaccination.
A Yellow Fever vaccination is now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. Got a question? In “Ask the Travel Doc,” Dr Natalie Prevatt answers traveler FAQs about Yellow Fever.
Which diseases should I worry about if I’m travelling to Uganda?
Your biggest health concern should be How to avoid malaria. I’m not medically qualified but I have plenty of personal tips to share, based on my 15 years living in Uganda. You might also enjoy Uganda travel advice I ignored!