How much does it cost to track mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
How much are gorilla tracking permits in Uganda and Rwanda?

A gorilla tracking permit includes entry into the National Park, experienced ranger guides who will escort you while sharing unlimited gorilla facts, one hour with the gorillas themselves and – most importantly – bragging rights in the form of a gorilla tracking certificate (in Uganda) and endless selfies (wherever you track!) Woo hoo!
The permit is just one part of the equation of course: you also need to cover transport, accommodation, meals, tips and souvenirs…
How much are Uganda gorilla tracking permits?
Uganda gorilla tracking fees – (Bwindi & Mgahinga) July 2024 – June 2026 | Gorilla tracking permit | Gorilla habituation experience |
---|---|---|
Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 800 | USD 1,500 |
Foreign resident (expats) in Uganda | USD 700 | USD 1,000 |
Rest of Africa | USD 500 | USD 1,000 |
Ugandans & EAC citizens | UGX 350,000 | UGX 750,000 |
UWA’s price list or “conservation tariff” covers: National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees; gorilla / chimpanzee tracking; boat rides; game drives; nature walks; volcano and mountain hiking, and biking. Prices are for international tourists (foreign non-residents), foreign residents (expats) and East African citizens, including Ugandans (domestic tourists). Read a summary of UWA’s fees for 2024 to 2016 (with links to some of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite blogs).
How much are Rwanda gorilla tracking permits?
UPDATE 2024: Until 31 December 2024, Rwandans, expats and all Africans can track gorillas in Rwanda at the discounted prices listed above.
Rwanda gorilla tracking fees (2024 fees) | Gorilla tracking permit |
---|---|
Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 1,500 |
Foreign residents in Africa (expats) including Rwanda | USD 500 |
African citizens | USD 500* |
Rwandans & EAC citizens | USD 200* |
- After repositioning itself as an upmarket tourist destination, in May 2017 Rwanda increased gorilla tracking permits to $1500 each, regardless of whether you were an international tourist, expat or East African residents. That sounds like a bum deal for local people (but RDB argue that only a tiny percentage of permits were sold to locals).
- Rwanda has an exclusive package for tourists who would like to book a whole family of gorillas. Priced at US$ 15,000, the group get access to exclusive personalised tour guiding.
- Visitors to Rwanda who track the gorillas and visit Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Parks for a minimum of three days will qualify for a 30% discount on their gorilla permit.
- International visitors attending conferences in Rwanda are eligible for a 15% discount on gorilla permit fees if tracking the gorillas before or after their conference.
How much are DRC gorilla tracking permits?
Gorilla tracking permits in the DRC are very cheap by comparison. Congolese citizens have preferential pricing but other East Africans don’t.
What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
For the best value for money, most visitors to East Africa will combine gorilla trekking with a Safari before or after their trip.
Booking your gorilla permits yourself and travelling by public transport is possible but there are pitfalls to be aware of. The downside of making your own arrangements is that you can sometimes end up incurring more costs. If, for example, you miss your bus or it breaks down (not uncommon) you might miss your gorilla trek. Permits are non-refundable, meaning if you arrive a day late, then you will have missed your slot. Most visitors therefore travel on a scheduled group tour or book their own driver and vehicle, usually through a tour company, such as one of the registered companies featured in my Travel Directory.
The other pitfall to avoid when arranging gorilla tracking yourself in Uganda is booking accommodation that is a long way from the gorilla family you are tracking. You will have to be up very early on the morning of your tracking so you want to stay as close as possible to the park headquarters. (Uganda’s gorilla families are spread several hours apart).
The average mid-range three day gorilla safari costs approximately $1200, depending on the number of people in your group. The cheapest way to see the gorillas is to travel on a scheduled overland trip during low season. If a tour is advertised to include gorilla tracking then the cost of the permit should be included in the price you are quoted, but do read the small print carefully!
A top of the range luxury gorilla Safari may cost $3 – $5,000 per person and may include fly-in options and five-star accommodation.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the links in the
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a lot of time (and money) applying for separate visas for the three countries: Kenya + Rwanda + Uganda. Most tourist visas are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?

- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.

1. Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
2. How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala, for example).
3. How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
4. Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, (former) Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new visa.
5. Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. The official line is that you cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa (although Rwanda states that you “may in exceptional circumstances.”To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below.
6. Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”

7. How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2024: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. For Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visas. For Rwanda, apply online in advance or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. Make sure you get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa online. Alternatively, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip.
NOTE: October 2024. I have spent some time understanding Kenya’s eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation). Kenya claims it is now “visa free” yet most passport holders have to instead apply – and pay for – the eTA. Confused? Yes I was! Here’s Diary of a Muzungu’s advice on how to apply for Kenya’s eTA, along with some useful extra links below:
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa and Interstate Pass applications. (The Interstate Pass is available to East African residents).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, you can get your East Africa Tourist Visa on arrival. Read my blog post Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals, which I update regularly.
However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer. Use Irembo, the Rwandan government’s online visa application system. Click here to apply and look for ‘visa application.’ Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.”
For more guidance on the East Africa Tourist Visa in Rwanda, see Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa on the goevernment website.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the official Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to apply for your East Africa Tourist Visa. My blog Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more. I update these visa posts regularly.

You can also request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: immigration request a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration; they will always have the last word. If you do not have a detailed itinerary or evidence of where you will be staying, upload a letter explaining your plans, or immigration may deny you an EATV.
8. What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop!
NOTE: October 2024. I am reviewing the guidance for Kenya: scroll down for link to apply online for Interstate Pass.
Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.

In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.

March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.

9. Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
The East Africa Tourist Visa is only valid in Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda but we hope one day more countries will join the EATV party.
The East African Community has eight member states. In alphabetical order, these are:
- Democratic Republic of the CONGO
- Republic of BURUNDI
- Republic of KENYA
- Republic of RWANDA
- Federal Republic of SOMALIA
- Republic of SOUTH SUDAN
- Republic of UGANDA
- United Republic of TANZANIA
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.

Notes from friends and travelers regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who often make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
- If in doubt, it’s always best to apply online in advice and/or contact the muzungu. Don’t get stranded!

Any feedback or questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident and I regularly travel to Kenya and Rwanda. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues and visitors, supported by the advice of an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya (or wider East Africa) I’m your woman! What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
Rwanda – visa on arrival for all travelers [UPDATED]
How do I apply for Rwanda visas? Rwanda now issues visa on arrival for all visitors (although online application is available too).

UPDATE: October 2024. Visa on arrival is still available for visitors to Rwanda.
You have to hand it to the Rwandans, these guys are serious about tourism! Rwanda has opened its borders to travelers from all countries. Everyone can apply for #VisaOnArrival (and for many nationalities, there’s no charge!)
Here is the official communique on the new visa regime. Letter dated March 2020 (and still valid at the time of updating this post, October 2024).

The muzungu’s understanding is that: nearly all nationalities can enter Rwanda at no cost. What differs is the amount of time you get: from 30 / 60 or 90 days, depending on your nationality.
To summarise the official Rwanda government site “If you’re a citizen of a country in the African Union, the Commonwealth or La Francophonie (French-speaking countries), not only can you get visa upon arrival, but visa fees are waived for a visit of 30 days.”
The same page also states that “A citizen of one the eight East African Community states shall be issued a visa on arrival free of charge for a stay of up to six months.”
The following countries can get a visa on arrival free of charge for up to 90 days: Angola, Benin, Central African Republic, Chad, Cote d’Ivoire, Democratic Republic of Congo, The Federation of Saint Christopher and Nevis, Ghana, Guinea, Indonesia, Haiti, Mauritius, Philippines, Senegal, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Sao Tome and Principe, Singapore and the state of Qatar. Check this list on Rwanda’s immigration site.
“Citizens of all countries that all not visa-exempt have the option to apply online or at Rwanda Diplomatic Missions of their country of residence before departure. Those applying online can pay online or upon arrival in Rwanda. NOTE: No agents are authorised to apply for a visa on your behalf. Beware: such agents may mislead and overcharge you.” The visa fees for this category of traveller are $50 USD (single entry visa) or $70 USD (multiple entry visa).
Click here to apply at the Rwanda Government Portal, Irembo. Here you have full guidance on what you need to apply. (Allow at least 7 days before you travel).
How do I apply for Rwanda tourist visas in 2024?
You can just rock up!

The ability to get visa on arrival in Rwanda sends a clear and positive message to tourists and it reaffirms ease of movement for East Africans within the region. It’s easier for Rwanda-based expats to travel in and out of the country too. This announcement makes it easier for the Rwandan diaspora (travelling on passports from other countries) to visit their home country as well. It’s an inclusive approach, and I like it.
You can also apply online in advance for your Rwanda tourist visa
Go to the Rwandan government’s Irembo website. Scroll down to Immigration and click on Visa application. Visa processing time is 7 days.

Note that the only two websites that issue Rwanda tourist visas are Irembo and Rwanda Government Immigration site. There have been cases of fraudsters tricking people into parting with money and not issuing visas. There are also companies that pretend to be official sites and organise visas for you (but take a large commission in a rather underhand way). Use either of the two above links and avoid the scammers and extra charges.
Which nationalities need visas to enter Rwanda?
Click here for a list of countries who are exempt from needing tourist visas for Rwanda; rules for Rwandans with dual nationailty; foreign residents in Rwanda; children below 16 years. Letter dated March 2020.

Got a question about visas? Read my blog about Ugandan tourist visas and my Definitive Guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa. I update these tourist visa blogs frequently and regularly answer travelers’ questions. Feel free to ask in the comments or contact me directly. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident and I regularly travel to Rwanda. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues and visitors, supported by the advice of an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya (or wider East Africa) I’m your woman! What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
What do a Queen & a sports commentator have in common? [PODCAST SEASON 1]
Yoo hoo! 

The East Africa Travel Podcast has been a labour of love… my biggest project in many a year… with many long nights… and a steep learning curve. If you’ve noticed I’ve been quiet for a while, now you know why!
Are you ready? It’s easy to listen to the Podcast section of Diary of a Muzungu – just click here 
The East Africa Travel Podcast is inspired by life on the edge of Uganda’s Kibale Forest
It’s a National Park famous for chimpanzees, forest elephants & African grey parrots.
Listen to the podcast for birdsong, travel advice, lively chats (& strictly positive vibes with a long list of brilliant conservationists in Africa and beyond, along with glowing endorsements from visitors from around the world).
Season 1 of the East Africa Travel Podcast launched in April 2024 with a Trailer and 20 episodes
Where do I start? 
- The 3 minute Trailer. You’ll LOVE the beginning!
- Episode 1 Welcome to my world! sets the scene with a glimpse of life at Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. I know you’ll love the forest sounds…
- Episode 2 Chimps, elephants and how I ended up in Uganda. Who am I? Which guests am I hosting?
- Episode 3, tune in to my conversation with the Nnaabagereka, Queen Sylvia of Buganda after she returns from gorilla tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest with Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka.
- Episode 4, Tickling a rhino and bowing to the Shoebill is my conversation with Rob Walker, the British sports commentator and Uganda’s official sports tourism ambassador. His excitement is infectious!
- In Episode 6, I am fascinated by every word uttered by primatologist / anthropologist Prof Richard Wrangham!
- In episode 9 guidebook author Philip Briggs and I are high up in the birdhide at Sunbird Hill.
- In episode 10, we watch “Warring warthogs on a walking safari in Queen Elizabeth National Park. I stay at the luxurious Honey Bear Camp, the only private concession in Kyambura Game Reserve (Wildplaces)
- In episode 7, I’m mesmerised by powerful Maasai music and uplifting conversations about sustainable tourism at the Original Maasai Lodge in Tanzania.
- In episode 11, hear why ecologist and field researcher Chris Ketola loves snakes and adores bats!
- In episode 13, entomologist Dr Michael Ochse and I examine the 100s of moths and insects buzzing around our heads one dark night!
- In episodes 15 and 16, I spend time with renowned conservationist and “self-confessed gorillaholic who’s been obsessed for 40 years!” Time with the irrepressible Ian Redmond OBE is always a learning experience.
- In Episode 20, listen out for baboons during my live chat with Pam Cunneyworth of Colobus Conservation of Diani, Kenya.
- And in between all the scintillating conversations… it’s just you and me, ambling along in nature, taking in the rich backdrop of birds and wildlife… you never know what we will hear and see together.
- Season 1 comprises 20 podcast episodes, all here on Diary of a Muzungu and all podcast directories.
- Season 2 is loading…
- Where next? Jinja in Uganda; Mombasa and Diani in Kenya; news from Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo and the Sustainable Tourism Summit in Kenya – and Kibale Forest, of course!
- Who are my next guests? Harriet Owalla (Kenyan travel journalist), Ikechi Uko (Nigerian and West African tourism guru), Rowan Martin (World Parrot Trust), Diani Turtle Watch … and many more lined up.
The Muzungu has a request! 
I would LOVE you to:
- Listen to the Trailer + at least one episode
- Share the podcast with your friends and everyone interested in travel in / to East Africa
- Leave a Review / Comment
- Why? Reviews + ratings mean the East Africa Travel Podcast will be shown to a bigger audience. Help me tell more people about this fabulously beautiful corner of our world.
Got a Spotify subscription? Then click here + listen + Follow + rate 5 stars
Click to listen on Apple Podcasts and go to the Show description to write a review and we’ll be friends forever 
Thanks for all your comments and questions. I LOVE hearing from you!
The East Africa Travel Podcast is hosted by Charlotte Beauvoisin, AKA Nagawa author of Diary of a Muzungu
How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks I bet you haven’t tried
An introduction to Rwandan foods – a snacking guide for hungry travellers!
Trying new foods is such an integral part of the travel experience.
As well as the regular packets of biscuits and bottles of sodas and water, the small bus park in Musanze (stop off point for tracking the gorillas in Rwanda) has an interesting selection of snacks for the traveller.
Rwanda seems remarkably free from the heavy, starchy snacks like chapatti, mandazi and ‘defenders’ (‘defender from hunger’ cakes), and even sambosas (samosas) that we have everywhere in Uganda.
In Rwanda, you might break up your bus journey by munching on:
- Hard-boiled eggs, served with hot akabanga chilli oil of course!
- Fresh groundnuts in their shells
- Cape gooseberries – in a plastic bag! – in Rwanda?
- Strings of bright orange tangerines
- Igikwanga (chewy snack made of cassava flour) pictured above. On its own igikwanga has little taste. Eat it with groundnuts and it’s rather interesting.
- Strings of sweet tree tomatoes (it’s rare to see these in Uganda)
I really enjoy Rwandan food and have been known to bring a few titbits back with me to Uganda. Some of the favourite items I’ve found so far are:
- Nyirangarama strawberry jam. I love strawberries and they are rare to find in Uganda. This strawberry jam is made in Rwanda. It’s delectable and full of fruit.
- Gishwati cheese. This mild flavoured Gouda-type cheese is very moorish and can withstand a two-day journey back to my village in western Uganda! It’s better priced than any such quality cheese in Uganda. Did you know Gishwati – Mukura is Rwanda’s newest National Park?
- At Red Rocks Initiatives in Musanze, I tasted potato wine and banana beer. My friend David loved the banana beer so much, he wrote a whole story about it.
- Rwanda is known for its good quality tea and coffee. Tourists that track the gorillas are given smart-looking presentation boxes of tea or coffee as a memento of their experience.
- Akagera ‘buffer honey’ is harvested from beehives near the boundary of Akagera National Park.
- Nyirangarama must be Rwanda’s most popular stopover – and the BEST place I’ve found in East Africa for enjoying baked (Irish) potatoes! I’m drooling just remembering them. They are big, cheap and always ready. They also sell chips. The shop next door sells whole Gishwati cheese, akabanga chilli oil, fresh bread, mandazi (donuts), strawberry yoghurt, Uganda Waragi, takeaway buffet and other snacks. (There’s a free – clean – toilet nearby too).
- If you’re staying at a tourist hotel, you can often get a packed lunch to take on your journey. The lunch box provided by the Kigali Serena Hotel is one of the smartest I’ve seen. I particularly like the local products.
- However, by far my favourite takeaway on my last trip to Rwanda was this fantastic sambaza (fish) and matooke chips lunch! Thank you and murakoze to Bethany Hotel on Lake Kivu for this filling and tasty lunch.

These are some of my favourite Rwandan snacks and foods – and I haven’t even mentioned brochettes and the excellent beers!
Trying local food is such an important part of my travels and so is taking public transport, but beware the ‘helpful porter’ at Musanze who grabs hold of your bag as you exit the bus and demands 500 Rwanda francs to haul it 100 metres!
“No way!” I told him. “I dragged my heavy bag for 20 minutes and no-one paid me!” I joked indignantly in a language he did not understand. I pulled a face and the price dropped to 100 RWF – for a service I didn’t really need.
Which are your favourite East African foods? If you are in Uganda, it may be the rolex! Mombasa street food is a favourite of mine too.
Trunk call: Jim Nyamu walks across East Africa to protect elephants
Have you heard about Jim Justus Nyamu’s cross-continental walks? Read about Ivory Belongs to Elephants’ East-Central Africa campaign walk
An amazing feat! 🐘 (Or should I say feet?) 👣
Jim campaigns tirelessly to protect elephants. He’s walked 1000s of miles / km and this is his 16th Campaign Walk for Elephants. His aim: to encourage African nations to work closely to protect this species that knows no borders.
Jim Justus Nyamu, *OGW, is the Founder and Executive Director of the Elephant Neighbors Center, a non-profit whose mission is “to protect the African Elephant and secure landscapes for elephants outside protected areas.” The brand Ivory Belongs to Elephants™ focuses on raising awareness locally, nationally, and internationally of the plight of African Elephants, primarily through their advocacy walks.

The East-Central Africa walk started in Nairobi, Kenya, on July 29th and passed through Nakuru, Mau Forest, Tinderet, Kakamega and Malaba (Mount Elgon). In Uganda, Jim walked through Mabira Forest, Kampala, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mbarara, Lake Mburo and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; now in Rwanda, Jim will visit Kigali, and Akagera National Park; and onto Goma, Virunga National Park, Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. This four-month walk will cover approximately 3,200 km. The walks offer solutions to mitigating human-wildlife conflict and highlight the direct importance of wildlife to affected communities.


This most iconic of African species is being pushed towards extinction – slaughtered by poachers to supply a worldwide ivory trade worth up to US$20 billion a year. Despite a ban in many countries, the killing is only getting worse. There are now estimated to be only 350,000 elephants left in Africa, with approximately 20,000 being killed every year. African elephants will be extinct in our lifetime if this rate of loss continues.
Ivory belongs to elephants press release
Elephants are crucial in:
- dispersing seeds +
- keeping the habitat open for grazing animals +
- fighting climate change by contributing to natural carbon capture +
- attracting millions of tourists who make substantial contributions to sub-Saharan Africa’s economies +
- so much more!

Jim and his team have been walking to raise awareness since 2013. By the end of the current campaign, they will have walked almost 20,000 km across Africa, the United States, and the UK, connecting with over 16,000 schools, and holding over 900 community meetings along the the campaign walks.
Jim also walks in the US and Europe to raise awareness in international communities that are still trading in ivory. For example, despite the 2018 announcement of the UK government’s plans to ban sale and export of most ivory items, the trade in ivory and live elephants is still legal in several countries.

If you see Jim, why not join the walk for an hour or even a day? 👣
Better still, you can support the team on the ground by making a donation. (I know how grim it is to try and sleep in a soggy tent!)
You can send directly to Jim Justus Nyamu via Momo +256 784755115 or Mpesa +254 713353060 or donate on the Ivory belongs to elephants gofundme page. Find out more on the Ivory belongs to elephants on Facebook.
(*OGW is the Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya is an award presented to individuals in recognition of an outstanding service rendered to the country).
Do Rwanda’s baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?
“Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony?” has to be one of the funniest questions I’ve ever been asked!*
The #FOMO [Fear Of Missing Out] is real this week as Rwanda hosts a week-long celebration of conservation and tourism, most visible at the 19th edition of Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony on Friday 1st September. It’s a brilliantly organised event that attracts people from near and far: locals attend for the free performances by local artistes; international ambassadors jet in to name baby gorillas; the rest of us love networking with tourism and conservation colleagues from across Africa as we tour the country and experience The Land of a Thousand Hills‘ growing list of attractions.
What is Kwita Izina?
Kwita Izina is modelled on a tradition in which Rwandans come together as a community to name their children. Since 2005 this has become an official, public event and a global celebration of nature and Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism. It’s no accident that the Chief Guest is President Kagame and many of his supporters; but you have to hand it to him, this is a really slick show.
374 mountain gorillas have been named over the last 18 years of Kwita Izina.
Rwanda works hard to thank the vets, conservationists, wildlife rangers, donors, tourism experts, international influencers and of course the local community. Media from all nations are in abundance at every event. But this is far more than a free day out for the local community; it’s a public celebration of Rwanda itself too.
What happens at the gorilla naming ceremony?
I’ve been hosted media at Kwita Izina on a number of occasions, courtesy of Rwanda Development Board and The Gorilla Organization. These were great opportunities to research my updates for Horizon Guides and for the Rwanda chapter of Fodor’s Travel’s “The Complete Guide to the African Safari” (and Diary of a Muzungu too of course!)

In 2013 I wrote BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony. That year I was a guest of The Gorilla Organization NGO, thanks to Jillian Miller and TGO Chair Ian Redmond. It was an honour to interview Kwita Izina‘s creator Rosette Rugamba at Hotel Muhabura, made famous by Dian Fossey.
Who gets to name Rwanda’s gorilla babies? What do the given names mean? And what is the format of the Kwita Izina event?
You’ll be amazed at the diversity of the attendees! Read more in Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!” my account from 2018.



Who will name the gorillas at Kwita Izina in 2023?
- Bukola Elemide, known as Asa, French singer, songwriter, and recording artist
- Danai Gurira, Actress, activist and playwright
- Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser Al-Missned, Co-Founder and Chairperson, Qatar Foundation
- Bernard Lama, SG Legend
- Sol Campbell, Arsenal Legend
- Idrissa Akuna “Idris” Elba OBE and Sabrina Dhowre Elba
- British actor, producer, and musician. Sabrina is a Canadian model and spouse to Idris Elba
- Cyrille Bolloré, CEO, Bolloré
- H.E. Hazza AlQahtani, Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates to the Republic of Rwanda
- Rt. Hon. Andrew Mitchell MP, Member of Parliament of the United Kingdom
- Joakim Noah, Former professional basketball player
- Kevin Hart, Comedian and Actor
- Winston Duke, Actor and Producer
- Jonathan Ledgard, Novelist
- Zurab Pololikashvili, Secretary General of the United Nations World Tourism Organizations
- Audrey Azoulay, Director General of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation
- Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO of Bestseller retail clothing chain
- Larry Green, Trustee, African Wildlife Foundation Board
- Joe Schoendorf, Silicon Valley Pioneer
- Nick Stone, Lead director of Wilderness Safaris
- Innocent Dusabeyezu
- Ineza Umuhoza Grace, Founder and CEO of the Green Protector
- Elvine Ineza, Primary Six Student at Regina Pacis School in Musanze District
- Queen Kalimpinya, Rwandan Rally Car Driver and Gender Equality Advocate
Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?
*No, the mountain gorillas do not attend the naming ceremony “in person”. They are safe in the sanctuary of Volcanoes National Park blissfully unaware of the thousands of people gathered to celebrate and advocate for their continued survival.
Did you know that if you visit Rwanda during the first week of September, you can get a free invitation to attend Kwita Izina?
If you’re planning to track the gorillas in Rwanda, visit at the end of August or the beginning of September and you can get a free invitation to Kwita Izina. There is tight security (President Kagame attends every year) so invitations need to be planned well in advance through a tour operator or conservation organisation. Other related activities this week include the 2-day Business of Conservation Conference in Kigali, a conservation exhibition and a gala dinner.
Another uniquely Rwandan event that takes place during the same period is the Red Rocks Cultural Festival, in nearby Musanze.
Looking for a tour operator to help you plan a trip to Rwanda or Uganda? Check out my Travel Directory or contact the muzungu.
The year of saying YES
Revenge travel: with the freedom to travel again, in 2022 I said yes to every travel opportunity that came my way!
Before 2023 swallows me in a frenzy of work, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the 365 days in which I continued to piece my life back together as the world reopened for tourism. Just as we were getting up to speed post-pandemic (with summer bookings almost as busy as 2019) Uganda tourism was dealt a blow by the recurrence of Ebola. Would you believe it, we groaned collectively. Tour operators had only just resumed “real work” after two years of farming goats and washing cars; but anyway THANKFULLY the Ebola outbreak has officially been declared over, so let me say no more.
If 2020 was a write-off, and we “woke up” mid-2021, I’ll sum up 2022 as the year I said a resounding yes to everything. (And if 2021 was the year of the big resignation, surely 2022 must have been the year of the big burnout!) In 2022, I was so busy looking for new opportunities and answering travel queries that there was little time for creative writing on my beloved blog. Don’t worry dear reader – or listener? – in 2023, I promise to inspire you once more! This year’s project is a podcast, launching soon… but first…
Fodor’s Travel’s Complete Guide to the African Safari
One of 2022’s highlights was updating the Uganda and Rwanda chapters of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Fodor’s have been writing guidebooks for over 80 years.
If you’re researching a destination listed in this blog post, know that I have visited them personally in 2022. This means that you can read about them in the Fodor’s Guide or send me an enquiry. This post is a compilation of 2022’s social media updates. Stand-out moments – which made the long drives, Bwindi’s terrible roads, and the endless proof-reading of the guidebook worth it! – include:
UGANDA travel highlights
- Listening to hyenas howling as I stretched out in bed at the glorious Ishasha Wilderness Camp, southern Queen Elizabeth National Park.
- Adding five ‘lifers’ to my bird list in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park during my stay at Mount Gahinga Lodge.
- Celebrating the tenth anniversary of Rwakobo Rock Lodge in Lake Mburo.
- Ferry rides and kayaking in search of otters on the very cool Banda Island, Kalangala (Ssese Islands).
- Dinner at the Bungee Bar overlooking the River Nile at Jinja.
- The Uganda Railway Museum at Jinja railway station.
- Driving across the Nile’s ferocious white waters at Karuma Falls en route to Pakwach and West Nile.
- Being one of the judges of the Miss Rwenzori Tourism Final in Kasese.
- Flying over Lake Victoria and Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes with Aerolink.
- Driving every rocky road around Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from Nkuringo to Rushaga, Ruhija and Buhoma.
- Visiting every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park.
- Buying straw hats in Mbarara!
- Taking a tour of Emburura Farm Lodge.

What an amazing welcome we had from the Batwa community of Mgahinga. Interaction with this ancient forest tribe are always memorable. I asked to have my photo taken with Stephen, one of the elders. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village! What a giggle. I was in Mgahinga near Kisoro to write about Volcanoes Safaris’ Retreat “Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes conservation challenges 2022 to 2050.”

Prince Wasajja of Buganda Kingdom completed the 21km run at the Rwenzori Marathon in western Uganda. Kasese town was painted green and the streets were lined with curious bystanders who couldn’t believe their town had become the talk of the country for a weekend. For many Kampala friends, this was their first visit. That shows you the power of sporting events in putting a destination on the map. 2023 is set to be even bigger for Kasese!

Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog
I was curious to see the new tarmac road that bisects Murchison Falls National Park (still under construction in some areas). I hate that Uganda is drilling for oil in a Protected Area but the drive to the Top of the Falls is certainly easier than before. We all gasped when we were hit by spray from the river! (Thankfully the cameras and phones survived). We passed through Murchison on our way back from Arua in West Nile.
Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron is one of my favourite stories from Murchison.
There is so much to write about West Nile:
- firstly the BIG smiles
- diverse cultures of tribes that are local to the region
- a list of invitations to numerous waterfalls
- mountain hikes
- hot springs
- Emin Pasha’s Fort
- Congolese music
- smoked Angala fish
- Amin’s Trail
- Colourful kitenge material sold by South Sudanese ladies at the Friday market
The people of Arua loved my 10 little-known things to do in Arua written after an earlier visit.
What are we without culture?
Mungu and I spent an enthralling hour with Tutu, Director of the Madi Lugbara Community Museum in Arua, West Nile, northwestern Uganda. I loved the museum’s simplicity. Moreover, the items displayed aren’t dusty items that sit forgotten on a shelf. “Go to the villages in West Nile” says John “and you will see all these items in daily use.”

Protecting traditional culture starts by listening to our elders’ stories, learning the lessons captured by song, engaging with passionate people like Tutu. He brought everything in the museum to life with his insightful, frequently funny, stories. The Madi Lugbara Community Museum is in Arua town. It’s one of many community museums across Uganda. They are mostly run by volunteers and all need our support.

One of the great things about writing a blog is meeting all kinds of interesting people [do say hi!] While I was checking out hotels and restaurants in Kampala for Fodor’s Travel, tour guide Joan came to say hello. She’s a ‘Top Fan’ of my Facebook page so it was wonderful to meet in person. The staff at the 5- star Kampala Serena Hotel are always smart, courteous and friendly. It’s a real privilege to stay there.

On a half-day “boda boda tour” of 7 crater lakes, we stopped at a tea plantation on the edge of Kibale Forest. I was over the moon when one of the tea-pickers handed me the “jerrycan shears” and gave me a chance to pick my own tea! Tea + Ugandan jerrycan invention = pure joy for a Brit like me (a big tea drinker).

Cool way to spend the weekend alert! If you’re looking for a bit of an adventure without traveling far from Kampala, I recommend this half day tour: I jumped in a wooden boat at Ggaba for a 20km bike ride along the marram dirt roads of Mukono. I came back feeling super relaxed… (and dusty and sweaty!) If you have your own bike, you can join Sunday bike rides around Kampala at zero cost. Contact the Muzungu for more info.
RWANDA travel highlights
Stand-out moments included:
- Being back in Rwanda after three long years!
- Eating sambaza fish while listening to Congolese music in Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – a few snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
- Chatting conservation with Rwanda Development Board at Gishwati Mukura National Park, Rwanda’s newest protected area.
- Sipping tea and nibbling homemade biscuits on the terrace at Virunga Lodge, overlooking the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo.
- Gawping in awe at the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, close to the start of the gorilla tracking.
- Having The Best Massage Of My Life at the five-star Maisha Spa at Kigali Serena Hotel.
- Drinking tea on the balcony of Virunga Lodge overlooking Lake Burera.
- Reconnecting with Greg Bakunzi of Red Rocks. Their cool campsite in Musanze is a centre for adventure, art and cultural learning. The community benefit directly from t heourists.
- Hearing stories about Dian Fossey from Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel, where Fossey used to stay.
In May 2022, I saw for myself how easy it is to enter Rwanda at the snazzy new Gatuna “one stop shop” border post.

After years of cross-border bus trips, it was interesting to cross the border in a tourist vehicle. First my guide Rashid had to buy COMESA insurance; at the border he had to ‘clear’ the vehicle with the Uganda Revenue Authority and Immigration. Here we were both issued with an Interstate Pass (part of the East Africa Tourist Visa which all EAC citizens and residents are eligible for). Lastly, our bags were scanned and searched – don’t accidentally carry a cavera (plastic bag) into Rwanda!

In Kigali, Rwanda, we caught up with Dr Andrew G. Seguya who heads the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration (and was the longest serving ED at Uganda Wildlife Authority). GVTC is best known for protecting the mountain gorillas that range between Rwanda, Uganda and the DR Congo. Have you heard of the pledge to protect gorillas? Gorilla tracking tourists are encouraged to commit to protecting the gorillas from human diseases by signing the www.gorillafriendly.org pledge.

Have you visited Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu?
This chilled-out small town borders the DRC town of Goma and is great for a long weekend. The buffet breakfast at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel is to die for! Their new gym opened in time for CHOGM in 2022 and the hotel has added mountain bike hire and birdwatching to their list of activities.
Have you heard of Gishwati-Mukura National Park?

Rwanda’s conservation and tourism visions are bold and inspiring. The new national park, created in 2016, is in fact two (severely degraded) forest fragments. An ambitious plan is in place to develop tourism activities (hiking, birdwatching, chimpanzee tracking and cultural experiences). A tree planting programme is visibly helping prevent soil erosion, protect rivers, improve biodiversity and – crucially – provide firewood for local communities. I’ve been following Gishwati-Mukura’s evolution closely since writing a blog for Albertine Rift Conservation Society in 2019.
Fancy sleeping in Dian Fossey’s room?

Gaudence’s family knew pioneer gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey well and shared some interesting stories about Fossey’s stays there. Did you know you can stay in the very room where Fossey slept? (For a premium price). You can guess where the muzungu wanted to sleep! (Unfortunately I arrived when the room was being renovated).
KENYA travel highlights
Nairobi’s matatus are legendary! Each one is a work of art.

Work it baby (More reasons to celebrate 2022)
Thank you to everyone who voted for me in the Top 100 Women in Travel and Tourism in Africa. I felt honoured to be nominated and bowled over to come at no. 2 in the online vote!

Training assignments led me across East Africa: digital marketing training in Jinja, Kampala, Fort Portal and West Nile; a community-based tourism webinar from Sunbird Hill for the East Africa Tourism Platform. Other work highlights included being speaking live to readers of the U.K.’s Wanderlust Magazine; a digital marketing presentation at Uganda’s inaugural Adventure Tourism Expo; On Uganda podcast interview; judging Uganda’s annual Travel Writing Competition. The year ended on a high with an invitation to Nairobi to co-lead a day discussing responsible tourism (one of my favourite subjects) with Kenyan content creators, Ecotourism Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board. (Thank you Barbara!)
Did 2022’s travels make up for lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest?
That time was enchanting in many ways and I remain grateful every day (as my #LockdownDiaries attest) but I took the isolation hard. I confess: 2022’s carbon footprint was off the scale and this year I am committed to offsetting my travels. I’m also committed to launching a podcast, a project inspired by being locked down with nature. More on that very soon!
Lastly, you’re always welcome to contact me for travel recommendations or check out my Travel Directory.
The Challenge of Protecting the Great Apes and the Albertine Rift
Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050 – an overview of the retreat at Mount Gahinga Lodge
If you’ve been following Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know how passionate I am about conservation. I was therefore delighted to be invited to help document Volcanoes Safaris’ conservation retreat at their fabulous Mount Gahinga Lodge. This is the first in a series of posts and podcasts I’ll be publishing about the weekend’s fascinating conversations.
Volcanoes Safaris was honoured to host the “Retreat on The Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050” at Mount Gahinga Lodge in the Ugandan foothills of the Virunga volcanoes. The retreat was the culmination of a series of events in 2022 to celebrate Volcanoes Safaris’ 25th anniversary.
Welcome to Mount Gahinga, Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge, by Praveen Moman
Praveen Moman, founder of Volcanoes Safaris welcomed everyone to Mgahinga “the playground of Volcanoes Safaris” an area that Praveen has been visiting with his family since the age of 12 and the location for Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge: Mount Gahinga. Praveen took the opportunity to thank the assembled gathering for the collaboration, partnership and perseverance and to make an impassioned plea to find solutions.

Participants acknowledged that big strides have been made in conservation. Johannes Refisch (UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi) pointed out that mountain gorillas are the only great ape species whose numbers have increased in the past decades. Dr Gladys Zikusoka-Kalema of Conservation Through Public Health noted that mountain gorillas are important to government revenue, commenting “We have a gorilla on a Ugandan banknote.” However, the growing human population, climate change, risk of disease, regional insecurity and other factors will continue to exacerbate environmental challenges.
“Welcome to Uganda’s smallest National Park” by Uganda Wildlife Authority
The weekend’s events started with a short walk in the National Park led by Praveen Moman and Richard Muhabwe, Senior Warden, Uganda Wildlife Authority. Muhabwe welcomed everyone to the 33.7 km square Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (MGNP), part of the greater Bwindi Mgahinga Conservation Area. This transboundary Park, contiguous with Volcanoes National Park in DRC and Rwanda, is popular for tracking the Nyakagezi family of nine mountain gorillas, golden monkeys, nature walks and volcano hiking of Mount Muhabura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabyinyo, borders the three countries.
Muhabwe’s welcome speech highlighted many of the environmental challenges that were to be discussed over the coming days. Climate change has led to flooding: mudslides on Mount Muhabura killed ten people and damaged property earlier in 2022. Climate change exacerbates the presence of invasive (plant) species that replace foliage that should feed wildlife. Human wildlife conflict is another local challenge: a 16 km long stone wall along MGNP’s boundary stretches from the border of the DRC to the border of Rwanda and prevents buffaloes straying from the National Park to destroy crops.

One of the highlights of the retreat was an exuberant song and dance display by the villagers who reside in the Batwa Village built on land purchased by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust and other well-wishers. Jane Nyirangano, chairperson of the Gahinga Batwa Village, thanked VSPT for their interventions.
The purpose of the retreat
Participants at the informal conservation retreat discussed the successes and challenges of the past 25 years of conservation in the Albertine Rift and brainstormed ideas and solutions for ensuring the habitats, parks and wildlife, including the endangered great apes, survive for the next 25 years.
The aim of the retreat was to stimulate new ways of collaboration. It was an opportunity to speak openly about participants’ perspectives, fears and ambitions for this fragile region. By having a longer-term goal, participants were free to imagine a range of scenarios (in contrast to most meetings which tend to focus on the more immediate future). The fundamental questions revolved around: what are we doing right? What else are need to do? Is it a question of scaling up current interventions? Or do we need to adopt new approaches?
We cannot just put wilderness on a pedestal; we need to put bread on the table of local people. We need to use the private sector to be the engine of growth, to deliver business plans, to organise service delivery. We need Protected Area managers and conservationists to look after our species, and veterinarian and disease specialists to safeguard species’ health and protect them for the future. We need to join what’s happening outside a park with what’s happening inside a park. We need to make people part of the conservation chain. We need to make this the beginning of the campaign to save the Albertine Rift.
Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
Who attended the retreat
Participants came from across the region: wildlife vets, primatologists, researchers, safari guides, wildlife rangers, National Park law enforcement and tourism wardens, foresters, and other conservationists; hospitality consultants, tour operators, development experts, private financiers, community outreach (Herbert) and media.
The retreat was co-moderated by Conservation Consultant Alastair McNeilage and Johannes Refisch of UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi.
Participants were invited to make short, simple presentations on topics of relevance to conservation in the Albertine Rift.
Key conclusions of the retreat
- It’s important for stakeholders to consider the Albertine Rift – Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC – as one region and to have a long-term vision for addressing the area’s various challenges.
- Concrete steps must be taken to maintain connectivity between small, isolated islands of habitat. This will help make ecosystems more resilient to the impacts of climate change.
- The threat of more human diseases affecting great apes is significant so veterinary care and technology will remain critical.
- Conservation needs to be part of the economic mainstream for governments and communities to support the continued presence of protected areas in regions where human populations continue to rise.
- Local communities must benefit from conservation and tourism. They have a stake in the future of great apes and protected areas and must be involved in development plans.
- Tourism can bring significant revenue, but the pandemic has taught us that conservation and communities cannot rely on one sole source of funding. New business models for protected area management must be actively considered. Innovative models have been successfully implemented across Africa. Public-private partnerships, for example, approach conservation management as a business that can cover the protected area’s operational costs and directly benefit communities involved.
- Collaboration between conservation organisations and the private sector needs to be developed further. Long-term involvement of researchers, new investment in parks, and application of private sector skills such as ‘business thinking’ and service delivery are important in sensitively developing natural resources and creating ‘professional tourism products’ for sale to visitors.
- Gorilla and chimpanzee tourism must be sensitive and controlled in line with the established protocols so that it does not negatively impact the species or habitat. Tourism protocols need to be strictly followed by park authorities, tourism intermediaries and visitors.
- Investment in conservation education for the next generation of young Africans is critical, to ensure that young people are educated and inspired to support conservation and tourism. The need for quality education is particularly important for the indigenous Batwa population. Forcibly removed from their forest home, these conservation refugees need a direct benefit from tourism in order to lift their communities out of poverty and help find peaceful human / wildlife co-existence. Conservation education should be an integral part of all stakeholders’ activities.
- The retreat agreed to create an informal group: The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group whose aim is to become a long-term advocacy and information network for those involved in this subject area. The focus of the group is to take collaborative action to deal with specific policy issues, threat to a particular species or a habitat or community issue. The group should maintain regular contact, either as a whole or in sub-groups, possibly every quarter through written exchanges, Zoom calls or physical meetings.
Outputs of the retreat
- The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group is led by Conservation through Public Health and Volcanoes Safaris. The inaugural meeting was held 22nd November 2022 in Kampala.
- The stakeholders agreed to meet every year, bringing in other partners as appropriate, to review progress. The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund offered to host the next meeting at their Ellen DeGeneres Campus, at Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.
- The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group has proposed some informal groupings to support action in specific areas; each participant should decide whether they wish to participate in a sub-group.
- Responsible gorilla tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; the gorilla-friendly pledge; adherence to IUCN and GRASP best practice guidelines; enhancing habitat connectivity.
Lead organisations: Conservation Through Public Health and Gorilla Doctors.
- Responsible chimpanzee tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; enhancing habitat connectivity.
Lead organisation: Jane Goodall Institute.
- Friends of a National Park group. A group of stakeholders around each park could be created to:
- Enhance Community Livelihoods from tourism and conservation.
- Invest in the Next Generation: improving conservation education in communities, visits by school children to National Parks, creation of scholarships.
- Financing of conservation and raising awareness of conservation issues within the Albertine Rift. Pursue opportunities for developing PPPs or reviewing the cost/ benefit of restructuring park management.
- Raise issues with appropriate regional and international organisations and events including:
- Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration Secretariat
- Great Apes Survival Partnership (GRASP) Council meeting
- African Primatological Society conference in 2024 in Gabon
- Congo Basin Forest Partnership
- International Congress for Conservation Biology (ICCB 2023), July 2023 in Kigali, Rwanda
- Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS)
- World Wildlife Fund (WWF)
About the Albertine Rift
The Albertine Rift stretches from Murchison Falls in northern Uganda to Kahuzi-Biega in the DRC. It is one of the richest areas of biodiversity in the world and one of the most densely populated areas of Africa.
About Volcanoes Safaris and the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust
For 25 years, Volcanoes Safaris has been at the forefront of reviving tourism in Uganda and Rwanda and is recognized as the region’s leader in gorilla and chimpanzee ecotourism. Volcanoes Safaris was the first company to set up simple camps in the areas around Uganda’s gorilla parks. Today Volcanoes Safaris has three lodges in Uganda: Mount Gahinga Lodge at Mgahinga National Park; Bwindi Lodge, bordering Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; and Kyambura Gorge Lodge, overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, neighbouring a gorge with a community of threatened chimpanzees.

In 2000, Volcanoes Safaris became the first international safari company to take clients to Rwanda and in 2004 opened Virunga Lodge, the first international company to build a lodge near the gorilla park after the war. Virunga Lodge is winner of Condé Nast Traveler readers’ choice awards 2017, 2021 and 2022.
Volcanoes Safaris: recognised leaders in great ape tourism
Volcanoes Safaris helped kick-start gorilla tourism in Rwanda after the genocide through the Volcanoes BLCF Partnership Project. In 2005 the company become a charter signatory to the UN Kinshasa Declaration on Saving the Great Apes, the only private sector company to do so. In 2009, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust (VSPT), a non-profit organisation that aims to create long-term, self-sustaining projects that enrich the livelihoods of local communities and promote the conservation of the great apes, was established.
In 2013, Praveen Moman, the founder was asked to join the Congo Basin Forest Partnership, which promotes sensitive economic development of the forests of Central Africa. Praveen has been described as a ‘visionary conservationist’ by the Financial Times and as ‘one of top twenty-five conservation-philanthropists’ in Africa by Departures Magazine. In 2021 Praveen was named winner of the Newsweek Future of Travel Awards.
About the retreat
The retreat took place at Mount Gahinga Lodge between November 12-14 2022. The next retreat will take place in one to two years’ time.
“We need the wisdom of all you, of your elders, of those who have gone before, of your institutions, to work together.”
Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris

For further information
If you’re are interested in future meetings, you’re welcome to contact the Great Apes in the Albertine Rift steering committee via email albertineapes@gmail.com.
- Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Founder, Conservation Through Public Health.
- Jean Paul Hirwa, Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
- James Byamukama, Jane Goodall Institute
- Alastair McNeilage, Conservation consultant
- Johannes Refisch, UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi
- Nick Radford, Wildlife Conservation Society
- Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
How to photograph the mountain gorillas
Tips for taking good photos of gorillas
If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.
In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.
In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.
You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.
Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:
If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:
- Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
- Always take extra memory cards.
- Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
- Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
- Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
- It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
- Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
- Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.
Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).
Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.
Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Are mountain gorillas endangered?
What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?
Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that mountain gorillas were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.

“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.” The Gorilla Organization
Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.
“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.” Dian Fossey, interviewed at her camp in Rwanda (May 1985)
The mountain gorilla population in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254* gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population passed the 1,000 mark. In 2023, the cross-border census confirmed almost 1,200 individuals. (*As conservation biologist Ian Redmond OBE explained to me in our conversations for the East Africa Travel Podcast, the figure was closer to 350 individuals (not the usually quoted 250). This is because the 1981 figure did not include the entire mountain gorilla habitat).
Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare; however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.
Rafiki – the first mountain gorilla to be killed by poachers in a decade



During lockdown of June 2020, we were appalled to learn of the killing of Rafiki, the Silverback mountain gorilla from Nkuringo, southern sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Rafiki was the first mountain gorilla to have been killed by poachers in a decade and the Nkuringo gorilla family was the first gorilla group to be habituated in the southern sector of Bwindi, in 1997. Conservation and tourism circles were in shock at this senseless killing.
This was one of the realities of the pandemic: less people in the parks (tourists, guides, rangers and researchers) meant more opportunities for poachers. With tourism closed for many months, guides and staff were home, many unpaid, and there was no ‘trickle-down effect’ to the wider community.

Justice was swift: withing a few weeks, the culprit was sentenced to 11 years in prison for a number of counts of poaching. Executive Director of Uganda Wildlife Authority, Sam Mwandha stated “This should serve as an example to other people who kill wildlife.”
Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.
If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.
The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.
In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.
Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?
For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, visit:
- Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) is responsible for Uganda’s wildlife. UWA manages the country’s National Parks and Wildlife Reserves, under the Ministry of Tourism Wildlife and Antiquities.
- Rwanda Development Board is the government department that oversees conservation and tourism.
- Virunga National Park, DR Congo
- Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)
- The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
- Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)
- Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project
- International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP
- Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF
- Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe
Gorilla tracking tourism and community initiatives help raise funds and awareness about the endangered mountain gorillas yet much as mountain gorilla conservation is lauded as a success, growing human populations continue to exert pressure on protected areas. Climate change and the increase in zoonotic diseases are exacerbating these tensions. We must remain vigilant!
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Gorilla Tracking Rules [UPDATED]
What are the rules for tracking the Mountain Gorillas? Why do we need them?

- Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and Rwanda Development Board (RDB) have clear rules and regulations to protect both gorillas and the humans that track them.
- The ranger guides will do their utmost to find the gorillas for you. These conservation rangers are in frequent radio contact, constantly monitoring the health, safety and whereabouts of the mountain gorilla populations.
- Although no tourist has ever been seriously hurt by a habituated gorilla, you should always remember that an adult gorilla is several times stronger than a human, and can be disturbed by human activity, particularly if the gorillas are nursing infants or sick – or simply not in the mood to be disturbed!
- The maximum group size for tracking the gorillas is 8 to 10 people per group
- Gorilla trackers must be fit and in good health. Trekking in thick forest at heights over 2,000 metres, traversing steep mountains and ravines can be tough and frequently wet. Gorillas are susceptible to many human diseases, including COVID-19, diarrhoea, colds and the flu. You should not go gorilla tracking if you have any of these.
- Your cough or sneeze can be lethal to a gorilla. Gorilla tracking was closed for many months at the start of the pandemic but has reopened. However, stricter regulations are in place to track all mountain gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. For example, as soon as you enter the National Park you must wear a good quality facemask. You must keep the mask on at all times. When you find the gorillas, you will be asked to put on a clean facemask.
- Gorillas can catch diseases from discarded human rubbish. Don’t litter or spit while in the gorillas’ habitat.
- Do not touch the gorillas, even if they come close. They can be very curious.
- Do not make any sudden movements.
- If a gorilla charges, do not run away. Stay calm. Slowly crouch down and avoid direct eye contact, until the gorilla moves away in its own time.
- Leave a distance of at least ten metres between you and the gorillas – although the gorillas do not always stick to this rule! If the gorillas start moving towards you, the rangers may advise you to move backwards away from them. (Pre-pandemic, experts said we should keep seven metres distance; this has been upwardly revised to 10 metres).
- Do not surround the gorillas. View them from a distance and in groups.
- One hour is allowed with the gorillas.
- Personal DVD recorders are allowed. Professional filmmakers need to purchase filming permits in advance from UWA or RDB.
- If you need to go to the toilet while you are in the forest, tell your guide, and they will dig a hole for you. Make sure you cover the hole afterwards to prevent possible transfer of disease to the gorilla population.
- You will be given a list of the Gorilla Tracking Rules with your tracking permit and reminded of them again on the morning of your gorilla trek.
- Flash photography is not allowed. It can be difficult to capture good photos of the gorillas under the dark canopy of the rainforest. If you have a film camera, fast film (400-1600 ASA) is useful.
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.