Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Rwanda? [UPDATED]
Accommodation tips. Here are a few of my recommended gorilla lodges in Rwanda
- The sensational Virunga Lodge is set on a hill with 360 degree views of lakes and volcanoes. If you’re splashing out on a once-in-a-lifetime experience, you must stay here. It is an hour’s drive from the park entrance in Kinigi.
- The Red Rocks Campsite in Musanze is a colourful community-run initiative and a great base for endless hikes, art and music and cultural activities. It’s at the heart of the annual Red Rocks Cultural Festival, held to coincide with Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony.
- Hotel Muhabura in the town of Musanze (20 minutes’ drive from the start of the gorilla tracking in Kinigi) is a tried and tested destination with pedigree primatological connections, although rather old-fashioned compared to many lodges. For a premium, you might want to book cottage number 12, where famous primatologist Dian Fossey regularly stayed on trips down from her home high up in the Virunga mountains.
- Le Bambou Gorilla Resort is a popular mid-range lodge just 20 minutes drive from the starting point for Rwanda’s gorilla tracking. The banda accommodation is made of volcanic rock and the gardens are full of bamboo and colourful flowers.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
(FAQs) about gorilla tracking [UPDATED]
Answers to commonly asked questions.
Am I guaranteed to see the gorillas?
- Purchasing a gorilla tracking permit is not a guarantee of seeing the gorillas but you will have an over 95% chance of seeing them, thanks to the rangers’ 24 hour monitoring. The habituated gorilla families do occasionally move out of range, but this is very rare.
Can I change the date of my gorilla tracking permit?
- Permits are non-refundable except for medical reasons, in which case you would need to provide a medical certificate.
When is best time of year to track the mountain gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
- Personally, I wouldn’t let the weather forecast decide when the best time is to see the gorillas since it rains most days in the rainforest. The rain may not be heavy, but there will certainly be low-lying mist and wet vegetation. Of course, some treks and trails are muddier than others!
- Predicting the rainy seasons is not an exact science these days but broadly speaking, the rainy seasons are March and April and October and November.
- Uganda and Rwanda enjoy round temperatures of between 21°C and 30°C throughout the year. In the higher altitudes of the mountain gorillas’ habitat, it can be as cold as 10°C.
- Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony in the first week of September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face. This superb event is by invitation only – but, if you’re touring the country, you’re invited! (There is no charge, but your tour operator will need to secure your invitation in advance).
How many days should I book for my gorilla tracking tour?
- You will need to set aside at least three days to see the gorillas in Uganda. Allow one day for travel to your accommodation, one day for the gorilla tracking itself and a third day for travel back or onwards, wherever you opt for. (It is possible to reduce a gorilla tracking tour to two days in Rwanda, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Some crazy people even fly in and out in one day, but don’t do it!)
Can I choose the time of day that I track the gorillas?
- You will need to be up very early on the day of the gorilla tracking and the day will be physically demanding, so you will need to arrive at your lodge by 6 or 7 PM on the day before you track. Note that it gets dark early on the Equator, and we only advise travelling in daylight hours, owing to the long distance and remoteness of your destination. Have an early night in preparedness for the next day.
- In the evening after your tracking, kick back, relax and relive your adventure in one of the lodges near the gorilla tracking areas before travelling the next day, or even the day after.
Should I hire a porter to track the gorillas?
- Hiring a porter means you can pack all your camera equipment, rain gear, snacks and plenty of water without worrying about how you will manage to drag it up a muddy slope through bushy undergrowth!
- In areas where the majority of people are subsistence farmers, portering jobs are invaluable. The day fees for a porter bring in cash – a rare commodity in this remote corner of Africa. By employing someone on a gorilla trekking tour, even for a day, you are reminding people of the personal value to be gained from protecting the mountain gorillas and their habitat. These employment opportunities help reduce encroachment into the protected areas – to set snares or collect timber – where the mountain gorillas live. Employ a porter and you’re not just helping yourself, you are supporting the local community and thus the gorillas themselves.
- The cost to hire a porter is $10-15 (plus discretionary $5 tip). Tips should be in small US dollar bills (dated post-2006) or local currency (Uganda shillings or Rwandese francs, depending on which country you are trekking in).
- TIP: although the rangers will accompany you all the way back to the park headquarters, occasionally the porters leave your group before you reach there, so make sure you have the right money for tips with you, just in case they depart early.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
How to buy gorilla tracking permits? [UPDATED]
Where can I buy Mountain Gorilla tracking permits for Uganda and Rwanda? Do I need to book permits in advance? When are peak (busy) tourism seasons?
Gorilla tracking permits need to be purchased in advance, that is six months or even a year in advance if you’re travelling during peak season or if you are in a large group. The earlier you book, the more choice you have on where you track and where you stay. Last minute bookings may be possible during low season or where there are just one or two people tracking, but availability of gorilla tracking permits is not guaranteed. This applies to Uganda in particular where there is high competition for the permits (owing mainly to Rwanda’s higher tracking fees).
The busy tourist (peak) seasons are June through to October and Christmas and the New Year (coinciding with European school holidays).
Each habituated gorilla family can only be visited one hour per day. There is a minimum age requirement of 15 years to track the gorillas in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC.
Gorilla tracking permits can be purchased up to two years in advance through a registered tour company in Uganda and Rwanda. Independent travellers can also purchase permits for Rwanda via the Rwanda Development Board (RDB). For the DRC, gorilla permits can be bought on the VisitVirunga web site.
The advantages of booking with a tour operator or safari company is that they have intimate local knowledge of the accommodation options and proximity of gorilla families. They know these remote areas well and their drivers are experts at negotiating Bwindi’s slippery, steep dirt roads, for example. If you plan to extend your trip (and most people do) the same company can make travel recommendations and arrange all the activity and accommodation bookings for you.
To book your gorilla tracking permit, you will need to provide:
- The date(s) you would like to track the gorillas. Suggest a few dates in case your first choice of date is already booked up. Scan and email a copy of your passport to whoever is organising your permits.
- Your name, nationality and passport number. Gorilla tracking permits are non-transferable. (Note that you will need to show your passport or some other ID at the pre-tracking briefing).
- Payment. The best way to pay is by bank wire transfer. Remember to instruct your bank to deduct any transaction charges from your account.
- If you are buying gorilla tracking permits directly from UWA or RDB, you will need to send them the bank payment confirmation email. (NOTE: 2024. International visitors to Uganda can only buy permits via a registered tour operator).
- Note that not all tour operators in East Africa accept credit cards. Of those that do, many add a hefty surcharge (of between 3% and 9%). Once the tour company have your preferred dates and personal details, they can make a temporary reservation with the relevant authority.
- Confirmation of your reservation. You should receive a scanned copy of your gorilla tracking permit within a few days or weeks. When you arrive in country, your tour driver guide will give you your original permit or you will collect it from the UWA / RDB office (if you are travelling independently).
Your gorilla tracking permit will have a unique serial number and your personal details written on it. It is non-transferable (except in emergencies).
Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Uganda
To reserve gorilla tracking permits in Uganda, you will need to specify which park (Bwindi or Mgahinga) you plan to visit. On the day of your tracking, UWA staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.
Uganda’s gorilla families are spread over a wide geographic area, so it is important that you book accommodation that is within an hour’s drive – or a few minutes’ walk – of the start of the gorilla tracking.
To purchase gorilla tracking permits, you will need to buy them through a tour company if you are an international visitor. Ugandans and expats in Uganda can make purchases at the Uganda Wildlife Authority reservations office on Kira Road, Kampala or call +256 (0)414 355 409/410 or email reservations@ugandawildlife.org. (TIP: in-person visits are always more effective but the reservations office can get extremely busy).
Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Rwanda
It is slightly easier to reserve gorilla tracking permits in Rwanda, as everyone starts their day at park headquarters in Kinigi so you don’t need to specify your lodge location or a gorilla family. Before your tracking, RDB staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.
Rwanda gorilla trekking permits and tours can be made through a tour company or Rwanda Development Board’s bookings portal. You can also buy permits in person at the tourism office at RDB’s excellent ‘one stop centre’ in Kigali. This is located on the ground floor of RDB’s gleaming Head Office, KN 5 Road, KG 9 Avenue, Gishushu. The centre is open from 9 am – 5 pm from Monday to Friday.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Things to do after tracking gorillas in Rwanda [UPDATED]
Top places to visit and tourism activities to experience after tracking the gorillas in Rwanda
You may visit Rwanda to track the mountain gorillas, but may stay for many other reasons.
The Volcanoes National Park entrance at Kinigi is the starting point for other activities including:
- Hiking Mount Sabyinyo’s imposing volcanic peak.
- Accompanied by an official ranger guide, you can visit Karisimbi and the grave of world-famous primatologist Dian Fossey and the graves of some of the gorillas she studied. If you have watched “Gorillas in the Mist” you may recall Digit the gorilla (one of the gorillas studied by Fossey).
- Trekking to see the endangered Golden Monkeys.
- The birdwatching in Virunga is sensational!
Community activities include colourful, traditional Intore dance performances and village walks to see the traditional way of life.
If you love primates, why not track chimpanzees or visit the habituated black and white Colobus monkeys in Nyungwe Forest National Park?
The laidback resort of Gisenyi, on the shore of Lake Kivu, borders Goma and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Lake Kivu is the largest of Rwanda’s lakes and is two hours drive from Rwanda’s gorilla tracking park headquarters. Visit Gisenyi for kayaking, to hike or cycle the multi-day Congo Nile Trail or to simply chill. Want to just watch the world go by for a few hours? Gisenyi is a popular day out for Kigali residents.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Where are mountain gorillas in Rwanda? [UPDATED]
Where do Rwanda’s Mountain Gorillas live? What is their habitat like?
Where are mountain gorillas in Rwanda?
Rwanda’s mountain gorillas inhabit Volcanoes National Park (Parc National des Volcans or PNV) an area of six volcanoes measuring approximately 125 square km. The Mountain Gorillas live at an altitude of between 2,500 – 4,000 metres. This area was made famous by pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, who lived for many years in the park studying gorillas.
How many gorilla families can you track in Rwanda?
Rwanda has seven gorilla families that are fully habituated and available for visits by the public. They are: Agashya, Amahoro, Hirwa, Kwitonda, Sabyinyo, Susa and Umubano.
Each gorilla family consists of at least one male Silverback gorilla, Blackbacks (younger male gorillas), several females and numerous youngsters. The largest family group, Susa, has 38 gorillas. They tend to range high into the mountains so are often the hardest to trek.
With seven gorilla families and a maximum of eight visitors allowed per group, there are a total of 56 permits available to track the gorillas in Rwanda every day.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What do Mountain Gorillas look like? [UPDATED]
Basic facts about Mountain Gorillas. How big are Gorillas? What do Gorillas eat? How much do Gorillas weigh?
Did you know that gorillas and humans share 98% of the same genetic material?
Male Mountain Gorillas may grow to six feet tall and weigh between 350 and 500 pounds. As the males mature, the hair on their back turns silver in colour, giving them the name Silverbacks. An adult male gorilla may be ten times stronger than the strongest human. A Silverback’s arms can stretch 7 feet wide.
Mountain Gorillas communicate through sounds like roars, grunts and shouts.
Adults can consume up to 75 pounds of flowers, leaves, bamboo, fruit, roots and shoots every day as they move around the forest.
Did you know …. gorillas sing and hum when eating? “Singing seems to be a way for gorillas to express contentment with their meal, as well as for the head of the family to communicate to others that it is dinner time.”
When were mountain gorillas first identified by man?
It was only in 1902 that the Western world became aware of the Mountain Gorilla. (I’d love to know more about local gorilla-related beliefs and knowledge).
Back in the day, German Explorer Captain von Berenge was climbing the Rwanda side of Mount Sabyinyo when he and his friends spotted a group of mountain gorillas. They shot two of them. They retrieved one of the bodies, a young male gorilla of approximately five years of age. It was bigger than any ape the Germans had ever seen before. Some of the animal’s remains were sent to Europe for analysis, where they were identified as a new species, distinct from the Lowland Gorillas* of West Africa. This subspecies became known as Gorilla beringei beringei.
The news of a new species attracted hunters to Rwanda. In the heyday of Mountain Gorilla hunting, Sweden’s Prince Wilhelm is reported to have shot fourteen Mountain Gorillas (1920-1921).
According to Wikipedia, “in 1921, eager to learn about gorillas to determine if killing them for museums was justified, Explorers Club former President Carl Akeley led an expedition to Mt. Mikeno in the Virunga Mountains at the edge of the then Belgian Congo. In the process of “collecting” several Mountain Gorillas [for zoos], Akeley’s attitude was fundamentally changed and for the remainder of his life he worked for the establishment of a gorilla preserve. In 1925, greatly influenced by Akeley, King Albert I of Belgium established what we now know as Virunga National Park – Africa’s first national park.”
Later, the British – colonisers of next door Uganda – followed suit and for many years, no-one was allowed to visit the mountain gorillas until Walter Baumgärtel was given permission to establish visits for tourists to his Traveller’s Rest Inn, in Kisoro, Uganda, a facility where you can still stay.
Baumgärtel wrote “Up among the Mountain Gorillas” all about his personal encounters with the tranquil giant apes in southern Uganda. Pioneer primatologist Dian Fossey frequently stayed at Traveller’s Rest Inn while studying the Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda, as did George Schaller and many other renowned personalities.
*The majority of gorillas seen in zoos are the Lowland Gorillas of West Africa.
Are mountain gorillas dangerous?
Forget King Kong, Mountain Gorillas are naturally peaceful creatures, but just like humans, they have their limits. If they feel threatened (for example, if people get too close, frighten them with camera flashes or unexpected loud noises), they may occasionally send out a warning.
If you’re trekking the Mountain Gorillas, you will be visiting the habituated groups, those who are used to being in close proximity to humans.
If you follow the Gorilla Tracking Rules, you will have a safe and wonderful experience.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking [UPDATED]
What is the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking?
The Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking (or Trekking) is designed to help you choose where to go mountain gorilla tracking, where to stay, what to pack, and explain how your tracking supports the Mountain Gorillas and the local (human!) population. I also share some ideas on other activities you can do in Uganda or Rwanda, as part of your gorilla tracking tour.
All information contained in this guide is based on my personal experience: tracking the gorillas, working with guides and conservationists, researching guidebooks and 15 years supporting conservation and tourism in Uganda and Rwanda. I can’t guarantee that every fact here is 100% accurate (but I’ve tried my very best!) Before confirming any travel plans, I’d always recommend contacting the Muzungu or one of the organisations listed in my Travel Directory. All feedback, suggestions (and corrections?) are gratefully received.
New for 2024: The East Africa Travel Podcast is inspired by my life on the edge of Kibale Forest: the pant hoots of chimpanzees, cicadas and the calls of tropical birds are the backdrop to life at Sunbird Hill. Great apes feature large in the podcast: fascinating conversations with Ian Redmond OBE, famous for his work with Dian Fossey and Sir David Attenborough; exciting firsthand accounts of gorilla tracking with the Nnaabagereka of Buganda in Bwindi; expert travel writer Philip Briggs’ comparison of gorilla and chimp tracking. (He first tracked gorillas in Uganda 30 years ago when a permit cost just one US dollar!)
According to the results of the latest census (finalised in 2022), there are just over 1,000 Mountain Gorillas living in the mountains that straddle Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (the DRC, formerly known as Zaire). A must for every eco-tourist’s travel bucket list, tracking the Mountain Gorillas truly is a unique wildlife experience. Every encounter with the gorillas is different.
No one who looks into a gorilla’s eyes — intelligent, gentle, vulnerable — can remain unchanged, for the gap between ape and human vanishes; we know that the gorilla still lives within us. Do gorillas also recognize this ancient connection?
George B. Schaller, “Gentle Gorillas, Turbulent Times,” National Geographic
There was very little activity when I first tracked the gorillas in Buhoma sector of Bwindi, Uganda. The highlight of the tracking was watching a baby gorilla hanging from one arm in the moss-covered trees above us, eyeballing us. The climb through a tea plantation and mist-covered slopes of the jungle-like forest were a magical part of the whole experience too.
My next gorilla tracking experience, in Rwanda, was altogether different: there was so much going on, the hour with the gorillas passed by very quickly. We watched twin baby gorillas playing with their mother. Huge adults sat munching in the bamboo above our heads. At one point, the whole gorilla family decided to walk through our nervous giggling group and we edged back in to the bush, as they brushed right past us. We even watched the Silverback having sex! (All of this action was accompanied by loud gorilla farts).
Gorilla tracking is not a cheap experience. However, receipts from gorilla permit sales have made a huge and sustainable impact on the ability of these beautiful creatures to survive. This guide focuses on gorilla tracking in Uganda and Rwanda but gorilla tracking in the DR Congo is sometimes available too. This is great news for us travellers – local people and the gorillas too. Tourist dollars contribute to conservation AND development.
Gorillas remain under constant watch, 365 days of the year. Their security and health are constantly monitored. The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from near-extinction levels of 254 individuals in the 1980s to a still ‘endangered’ level of 1000+ in 2023. By going to track the Mountain Gorillas, you are contributing to their survival – as long as you follow the Gorilla Tracking Rules listed in this Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking.
Are you looking for answers to any of these questions?
Section 1. What do mountain gorillas look like? – including …
… Are Mountain Gorillas dangerous?
… When were Mountain Gorillas first scientifically identified by man?
Section 2. Where are mountain gorillas in Uganda? – including …
… How many gorilla families are there in Uganda?
Section 3. Which other activities can you do after tracking the gorillas in Uganda?
Section 4. Where are Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda? – including …
… How many gorilla families are there in Rwanda?
Section 5. Which other activities can you can do after tracking the gorillas in Rwanda? – including …
… Which other activities can you do after trekking gorillas in Rwanda?
Section 6. How much does it cost to track to see the Mountain Gorillas? – including …
… What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
Section 7. How can I buy gorilla tracking permits? – including …
… Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Rwanda
… Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Uganda
… Contacts for purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in the DRC
Section 8. Gorilla tracking FAQs Frequently Asked Questions. – including …
… Am I guaranteed to see the gorillas?
… How many days should I book for my gorilla tracking tour?
… Should I hire a porter for when I go gorilla tracking?
… When is the best time of year to track the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 9. Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Uganda?
Section 10. Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Rwanda?
Section 11. What can I expect on my gorilla tracking tour?
Section 12. What are the gorilla tracking rules?
Section 13. What is the best way to travel to the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 14. What should I pack for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Section 15. What are the best tips for photographing the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 16. Are Mountain Gorillas an endangered species? – including …
… Which conservation organisations are working to protect the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 17. What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What’s the best way to travel to the mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
Can I fly to see the Mountain Gorillas? How long is the journey by road from Kampala (in Uganda) or Kigali (in Rwanda) to the gorillas’ habitat?
The main roads to the gorilla tracking regions of Uganda and Rwanda are generally good but travel is much slower than on European or American roads, for example. Secondary roads are often slow and bumpy, especially approaching Uganda’s gorilla parks. Be prepared for long car journeys often taking most of the day. Four-wheel drive vehicles are required for certain routes in the rainy season when heavy rains can cause floods and even damage roads. I’ve travelled to every corner of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Mgahinga and Volcanoes National Park by every possible means: private car, bus, public transport, boda boda (motorbike taxi) and 12-seater plane. However you travel, enjoy the journey! The scenery is fabulous.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas – is 8+ hours’ drive from Kampala or Entebbe. If you’ve never visited this part of the world before, you’ll find the drive is a fantastic opportunity to watch everyday African life as you drive through the small trading centres. En route through the gloriously green Pearl of Africa you will cross the Equator (and the obligatory stop for photos!)
If you have time to spare, you can easily make a detour for a Safari in Lake Mburo National Park or Queen Elizabeth National Park.
If you prefer to fly, a round trip air ticket from Entebbe Airport or Kajansi Airstrip to the Bwindi area costs approximately $400. This one and a half hour flight in a small aircraft is out of this world! You pass over islands on Lake Victoria, swampy marshlands, villages and the mist-covered valleys of south-western Uganda. Seeing the cloud-covered peaks of the volcanoes appear on the horizon is an unforgettable sight. The airstrips of Kisoro or Kihihi are 30 minutes / one hour from most gorilla tracking lodges.
If you’re pushed for time – or you don’t fancy a long road drive – the best option is a flight to Kigali and the short drive to Volcanoes National Park, home of Rwanda’s gorillas. The drive takes just two hours from Rwanda’s capital city Kigali on very good roads. En route you will quickly understand why it is called ‘the Land of 1000 Hills’!
It’s also possible to fly to Kigali and drive across the border to see Uganda’s gorillas. (Both options take considerably less time than driving from Kampala).
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Uganda or Rwanda: how do you decide where to go mountain gorilla tracking?
Mountain gorilla tracking is a professionally organised and well-developed ecotourism experience. It is the number one tourist attraction in both Uganda and Rwanda. Wherever you stay, there is a good range of accommodation options available to you. Gorilla tracking in the DRC offers fewer tracking and accommodation options and is not always available. However, where the DRC is unique is in having both mountain and lowlands gorillas! If you’re interested in gorilla tracking in the DR Congo, do drop me an email.
Ranger guides are professionally trained, will look after you well and are full of useful information. They know the gorilla populations intimately. Ranger guides speak good English. In Rwanda, many guides also speak French (in addition to Kinyarwanda of course!)
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Uganda
I simply love the drive to see the gorillas in Uganda, even from Kampala, even though it takes a whole day. Whether you are tracking the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Buhoma, Nkuringo, Ruhija or Rushaga) or Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, the last two hours of scenery is particularly divine.
Gorilla tracking permits are cheaper in Uganda and, in my view, Uganda also has lots more to see and do before / after your gorilla tracking adventure. Uganda and Rwanda are right next door to each other however, so you could track the gorillas in Rwanda and then drive to Uganda for the rest of your East African holiday, or vice versa.
Gorilla tracking permits in Rwanda are roughly double what they cost in Uganda, making the country unaffordable to most people. Interestingly, the popularity of gorilla tracking in the DRC is on the increase and is dirt cheap by comparison. Check out my gorilla permit comparison table
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Rwanda
Rwanda’s boast is that you can fly in and do the gorilla tracking in one (rather hectic) day and fly back home the same night. I wouldn’t recommend that though.
The short drive from Kigali International Airport to the start of the gorilla tracking in Rwanda is only two hours but the drive is not as scenic (breath-taking!) as Uganda. However, the roads are better, so gorilla tracking in Rwanda includes a more comfortable drive. Although the gorilla tracking permits cost more in Rwanda, you may save money by doing a shorter trip. By comparison, in Uganda you have to stay a minimum of two nights, thus pushing the overall price up.
Which is the best: tracking the gorillas in Uganda or Rwanda?
The Muzungu highly recommends gorilla tracking in both Uganda and Rwanda. Both experiences are fantastic.
I loved hacking through the rainforest in Bwindi and I loved the bamboo forest of Rwanda. I know people who have tracked the mountain gorillas dozens of times. They continue to go back because every experience is so different. Likewise with tourists and travellers, some decide that if they are travelling all the way to East Africa, then why not track both Uganda’s mountain gorillas and Rwanda’s gorillas too?
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Still got a question? Contact the Muzungu.
The land of 1000 … surprises! A solo exploration of Rwanda
Want to explore Rwanda? An ABC of Rwanda’s tourist accommodation – AirBnB, boutique hotels, camping and luxury lodges
A recent trip to Rwanda revealed such a wide variety of places to stay that I thought I must share them with you. Although Rwanda pitches itself as a high-end destination now – and has some wonderful luxury lodges like the remarkable Virunga Lodge – the country has a wide variety of accommodation for all budgets. It’s a very easy country to travel around too (although Ugandan friends did freak out when our vehicle started driving on the right side of the road!)
I seem to have developed this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks. It’s hard to resist the invitation to visit new places, especially when you’re already far from home (and your toothbrush is packed!)
The early morning bus from Kampala to Kigali is so much more pleasant than the night bus. (Why on earth did I take all those night buses?) I used to think I could kill a night by sleeping on the bus but sitting on the bus is no recompense for lack of a bed. I love Jaguar’s new wide ‘VIP only’ seats. There’s plenty of legroom and – hooray! – working seat belts. I’ve been using Jaguar Executive Coaches between Kampala and Kigali since 2011.
Despite rumours of bad politics between Uganda and Rwanda, I couldn’t tell whether anything was different at the border. Rwanda immigration’s new building is just having its last coat of paint. Those immigration officials must be relieved. If you cross the border late at night, they sit there in open-sided shipping containers, wearing thick jackets and suffering the cold of the damp river crossing.
At Nyabugogo bus park in Kigali, I met my new friend and kindred spirit Denis Senechal, a French-Canadian who has relocated to Rwanda’s capital with his Rwandan wife. Read my story about the cobbler of Nyabugogo bus park that I wrote while looking out of the bus window.
Denis and I swapped stories about their former life in Kampala as he drove me to the cosy and colourful Umusambi Bed and Breakfast in Kibagabaga, my home for the next few days.
After a leisurely breakfast the next morning – “don’t rush me, I’ve only been sitting at the breakfast table for an hour and a half” – I got chatting to an Australian couple who invited me to tour Inema Arts Gallery and the Caplaki craft market. I’ve managed to finance my nomad lifestyle by not visiting craft shops (so it was rather weird to be seen as a tourist).
Rwandan arts and crafts: Inema Arts Gallery and Caplaki Craft Market, Kigali
Caplaki Craft Market has excellent quality crafts – and divergent prices! Luckily we had the lovely Tony from Burundi to negotiate and whisper “don’t pay more than that” under his breath as we wandered from shop to shop.
We’d established that I could buy a snake (made from recycled bottle tops) for around 8,000 RWF (around $8). The shop next door asked for 15,000 RWF. At shop number three, the man with boozy breath said “I give you good price” and then asked me for 25,000 RWF for the same item! (He was the reminder to not buy the first thing you set your heart on).
In the afternoon, Greg Bakunzi from Red Rocks in Musanze introduced me to the Inzora Rooftop Café at Ikirezi Bookshop / Librairie Ikirezi. This stylish – bookish – café is definitely my kind of place and one I plan to revisit.
A highlight of my time in Kigali was feeling free to walk wherever I wanted. Wide (motorbike-free!) pavements and street lights make walking a pleasure. From Ikirezi Bookshop, I walked to the famous ‘peace basket’ structure that is Kigali Convention Centre. It can be seen from all corners of the city, particularly at night when it is lit in a variety of mesmerising colours. Radisson Blu Hotel forms part of the Convention Centre complex. The presidential convoy of Range Rovers with black-tinted windows sped past me as I left the hotel.
Photo highlights from Kigali and Musanze – click on the photos to reveal their location!
Did you know that Google Maps continues to work even when you’re not on Wi-Fi? (You can see who failed physics, can’t you?) To start, I logged onto the free Wi-Fi at Radisson Blu and typed my destination into the app. Google Maps traced the route and the arrow kept moving, even as I left the WiFi zone behind me to walk 5.5 km uphill and down towards Umusambi Guesthouse. Rwandans are generally polite people, and some greeted me as I walked. Walking the streets of Kigali was a wonderful experience (although not everywhere is as developed as the route between the Convention Centre and Kibagabaga, as I found out the following week when I stayed in a residential back street). First the muzungu got lost, then the moto got lost and later Google Maps dumped me in a field of maize! (But tell me, what is a travel blog without the occasional detour?)
I felt so relaxed at Umusambi Guesthouse, that it was an effort to haul myself off the sofa! I chatted in French with the guesthouse’s Belgian owner and had an eye-opening conversation with an Italian lady who is vaccinating frontline staff against Ebola. “Prevention is better than cure” and we are thankful to see numerous interventions in place across the region.
I’ve travelled by bus from Kigali to Musanze many times and it couldn’t be easier. The Virunga Express from Nyabugogo takes a couple of hours from the city as it winds upwards through some of Rwanda’s one thousand hills.
From Musanze, I took a 7 km moto(rbike) ride to the Red Rocks campsite. Here at high altitude, evenings can be cold. I was glad to have a friendly dog lying on my feet as I warmed myself at the campfire while chatting to two very cool trail-blazing chicks: Harriet, one of Red Rocks’ co-founders and Angel, one of Rwanda’s few women tour drivers.
Red Rocks Campsite and Red Rocks Initiatives, Musanze Rwanda
Red Rocks is a popular campsite with super friendly staff who make a point of greeting you with a big smile. I enjoyed chatting French with the chef. Quels petits déjeuners énormes! (The breakfasts were huge!)
Red Rocks is home to authentic community tourism and I was honoured to spend some time with Kamana Theophile, an environmentalist with a passion for community projects. In the Red Rocks Museum, he demonstrated how banana beer is made in a giant wooden canoe-type structure. (I tried some on a previous trip – it’s delicious!) Profits from Red Rocks Campsite fund the indigenous tree nursery and gardening demonstration plots. Kamana discussed in French (ooo la la) how the local community are given seedlings, learn gardening techniques and good environmental practices – all for free. Through Red Rocks Initiatives, local communities – and the environment – directly benefit from tourism. Every aspect is environmentally sound: the ‘raised bed’ kitchen garden is made of volcanic rock and tree seedlings are carried home in pots made of banana fibre (plastic bags are illegal in Rwanda and the ban is strictly enforced).
For a change of scene – we travel bloggers are rarely off-duty you know! – I was escorted to the new Classic Lodge where I did the full tour of the extensive buildings. The night before, over a thousand people had attended an event there. Had Musanze ever hosted such a large number of people?
Classic Lodge in Musanze is quite a set-up!
Here I was given a tour of the presidential suite (which President Kagame himself visited while it was under construction), a family cottage, suites, superior rooms and others. There are at least 40 different rooms and conference facilities.
Café Crema in Musanze is a cosy setup with charming and courteous staff. It’s the kind of place I love to hang out. The cappuccino was excellent, and I was happy to kill a few hours there (the first 30 minutes of WiFi are free).
Caffeine levels boosted, I dropped by the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund exhibition. It was humbling to spend a few moments reconnecting with my first reason for travelling to Rwanda, that being to support gorilla conservation.
Next stop Kigali.
The advantage of having fluid plans is you can take up new opportunities as they present themselves. The downside is you occasionally get stuck without a place to sleep! Thanks to Moses Nezehose who booked me in at the Tea House, another great establishment which is walking distance from Remera, a part of the city that I’ve come to know a little over my years of visiting Kigali.
On my first trips to the capital, I would stay at hostels run by various convents. (You can’t argue with $10 a night, even if the shower is cold). Centre Christus Hostel in Remera is set in green, bird (and monkey)-filled gardens away from the main road and I’ve been happy to stay there on several occasions.
On the second leg of my trip in Kigali, I was spoiled rotten. I spent three nights at the fabulous Pili Pili Boutique Hotel. My – it was heaven – so much so that I didn’t leave the compound for three days! My heart skipped a beat when the beautiful breakfast tray arrived in my room.
The cosmopolitan bar and brilliant music at Pili Pili were quite a thrill for this girl from the village! I loved the fresh grilled Sambaza fish from Lake Tanganyika and enjoyed my chats with Rudy, Pili Pili’s owner. I was fascinated to hear about his former life running hotels and bars in Bujambura. I visited Burundi in 2012 and really fell for the place. J’adore l’Afrique francophone!
Pili Pili Bistro and Boutique Hotel, Kigali
Pre-booked visitors ousted me from my little pad – goddamit – meaning it was time to download Air BnB and try my luck getting a cheap room in the city. Within minutes I was booked in to stay with Josiane and her four young sons. It was hard to understand where she lived so she came to meet me midway on a moto. She couldn’t have been nicer. She almost fell off her chair when I told her that Uganda is the Source of the Nile. She was quite adamant that it is in Rwanda! The debate continues…
After the comforts of a luxury set-up, it was nice to spend time with a Rwandan family. They treated me well and the meals were huge. (As for the cockroaches, well I’m glad I didn’t see any on my first night there; the longer I stayed there, the bigger the cockroaches I saw!)
I happened to be in Kigali on a Sunday when roads are closed to allow city residents space to run and exercise. Groups were exercising at Amahoro Stadium that morning as I walked to Java House in Remera where I fell in love with rhinos! Did you know Rwanda has just successfully relocated five black rhinos from Europe to Rwanda? The transformation of Akagera National Park is sensational, as I have witnessed on my last two visits there.
On my last day in Kigali, I headed to the Rwanda Development Board offices, also in Remera. Tourism, conservation and many other departments are managed by RDB. Boy what an impressive setup. Did you know that it’s free to register a business in Rwanda? Did you know that it generally takes only six hours to do that? The ‘one stop shop’ at RDB really is that. You can make bank payments, get advice from copyright specialists and immigration officials and have someone sit with you and guide you through the whole process of setting up a company, from start to finish. Let’s not do comparisons with Uganda…
Upstairs, I was delighted to see Moses, one of our hosts at the brilliant Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony. Kwita Izina is the annual celebration of conservation and tourism in Rwanda and now lasts a whole week.
Lunchtime took me back to the famous Chez Lando for my final brochettes (grilled meat on skewers) of the trip. I do enjoy Rwandan food. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
The final leg of my trip took me back to Kampala. Life is easy when you can jump in an Uber as soon as you hit the city outskirts! Boutique B&Bs were a bit of a theme on this trip and I was thrilled when Albert Ntambiko invited me to stay at the new Mahali Guesthouse in Makindye. Albert is also the owner of Coffee at Last. Mahali is housed in the new Coffee at Last building, just a few steps away from the original establishment.
Like I said, I seem to have this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks! Last year’s four day trip to Mombasa led to invitations to visit high-end hotels in Nyali, explore backpacker hostels and luxury beach resorts in Diani and attend Diani’s Five A Side International Beach Touch Rugby Tournament. (I arrived home three weeks later!)
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One to watch: Gishwati – Mukura, Rwanda’s newest national park
Gishwati – Mukura, Rwanda’s fourth national park is the closest to Kigali
On a drive from Lake Kivu towards Musanze, my eyes were drawn to the green cultivated hillsides behind the thin row of houses that line the main road. “This is Gishwati,” said Maurice. “One day it will be a National Park.”
I thought no more of his comment until a year later when I found myself sitting next to Dr Sam Kanyimibwa of the Albertine Rift Conservation Society, the organisation that facilitated the management plan for the new Gishwati – Mukura National Park.
This blog is based on information shared by ARCOS and the Rwanda Environment Management Authority. It’s a little geekier than my normal conservation and adventure stories but what a brilliant and ambitious project! You have to hand it to the Rwandans: they have vision.
Gishwati and Mukura Forests are two remnant forests which were designated as reserves in the 1950s. Although not physically joined, the government of Rwanda decided to establish a new national park that will – in time – link the two forest fragments of Gishwati and Mukura to create Gishwati – Mukura National Park.
Created in 2015, Gishwati – Mukura – Rwanda’s fourth national park – is now the closest National Park to Kigali. “This location is very special. It’s surrounded by tea plantations and pastoralism. It is a very beautiful mountain ecosystem,” Dr Kanyimibwa explained.
Gishwati-Mukura National Park is home to many species that are listed by IUCN as threatened or endangered. Among these is the Eastern Chimpanzee.
“Joining the two forest fragments of Gishwati and Mukura is positive. However, there is the challenge of species isolation,” explains Dr Kanyimibwa. The creation of Gishwati-Mukura National Park GMNP in Western Rwanda is “very interesting in terms of conservation,” he added.
In 2019, Rwanda Development Board (RDB) signed a 25-year concession agreement with Imizi Ecotourism Development to develop and operate “an exclusive chimpanzee and primate trekking experience under the Wilderness Safaris brand” one element in a multi-phased conservation and tourism management programme for the newly formed Gishwati – Mukura National Park.
Where is Gishwati-Mukura National Park?
Gishwati-Mukura National Park lies in North-West Rwanda (1° 49´ S, 29° 22´ E) and is part of the Albertine Rift and Congo-Nile Divide. The park is composed of montane rainforest fragments that are rich in biodiversity. GMNP’s tropical climate has an average temperature ranging between 20° and 24° C, the mean annual rainfall is between 1,500-1,600 mm and the elevation ranges from 2,000 to 3,000m above sea level.
Gishwati-Mukura National Park lies in North-West Rwanda (1° 49´ S, 29° 22´ E) and is part of the Albertine Rift and Congo-Nile Divide. The park is composed of montane rainforest fragments that are rich in biodiversity. GMNP’s tropical climate has an average temperature ranging between 20° and 24° C, the mean annual rainfall is between 1,500-1,600 mm and the elevation ranges from 2,000 to 3,000m above sea level.
History of Gishwati and Mukura Forests
More than hundred years ago, the forests of Mukura and Gishwati covered approximately 253,000 hectares and were Rwanda’s largest indigenous forests.
These forests cover just 3,558 hectares now (1,570 ha on Gishwati and 1,988 ha for Mukura), due to encroachment, large-scale cattle ranching, cattle grazing, resettlement of refugees after the genocide, illegal mining and plantations of non-native trees. If deforestation were to continue at the same pace, these forests would no longer exist by 2020. Subsistence activities such as mining, logging, collection of firewood, charcoal-making and sand quarrying further degrade the environment.
History shows that Mukura Forest, Gishwati Forest and Nyungwe Forest once formed a continuous forest. (The extension of forest into Burundi is known as Kibira Forest).
The creation of a corridor between Gishwati and Nyungwe through Mukura Forest aims to restore the ecological connectivity of these forests.
How is the new Gishwati – Mukura National Park being created?
Although there is more than 20 km of community land between the two forest fragments, conservationists are pinning their hopes on using a river – or more precisely, the land either side of it – to reconnect these two forests. The law states that people must respect 10 metres of land either side of the river – this gives conservationists an entry point. The Rwanda Environment Management Authority is now working to restore the highly degraded Gishwati-Mukura landscape through the “Landscape Approach to Forest Restoration and Conservation (LAFREC)” project.
The plan to connect the patches of forest by an ecological corridor is complicated by a complex mosaic of different land uses between the two forests.
However, the hills and valleys and GMNP are dominated by crops, pasture and non-native trees (mainly eucalyptus and pine).
The main human activity in the mountains around Gishwati-Mukura National Park is small-scale farming of maize, beans, Irish potatoes, bananas, tea and coffee. Some land is also used for pasture for livestock (cows, goats, sheep, and pigs) and forestry.
Biological highlights of Gishwati and Mukura
Although Gishwati-Mukura National Park has suffered a serious loss of biodiversity as a result of deforestation – fauna alone has declined by a mind-boggling 99% – nevertheless, GMNP still hosts significant biodiversity, including:
- 200 species of trees and shrubs including numerous hardwood trees and bamboo.
Many species that are listed by IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) as threatened or endangered, including:
- Eastern chimpanzee. Gishwati-Mukura National Park and Nyungwe National Park (NNP) are the only remaining habitats for Eastern chimpanzees (Pan troglodytes schweinfurthii) in Rwanda.
- Golden monkey (Cercopithecus mitis kandti).
- Mountain monkey or L’Hoest’s Monkey (Cercopithecus l’hoesti).
- More than 200 species of birds, including Albertine Rift endemics Ruwenzori / Rwenzori Turaco (Gallirex johnstoni) and Grauer’s swamp-warbler (Bradypterus graueri).
- Amphibians such as brown forest frogs and multiple species of toads.
- Reptiles that include the Great Lakes Bush Viper and multiple species of chameleons.
- Satinsyi River is home to a highly endangered species of fish (Haplochromis erythromaculatus).
The ecological importance of Gishwati – Mukura National Park
The role played by these forests is vital to the local, regional and national economy.
GMNP channels run-off into the headwaters of Africa’s two largest hydrological systems: the Nile and Congo rivers. Gishwati and Mukura forests – with their many streams and riverbeds – regulate river flow and ensure that water is available throughout the year. The forests absorb and slowly release rainwater, preventing loss of topsoil, (preventing sometimes disastrous landslides). As such, Mukura-Gishwati Forest landscape is crucial for farming and primary industries such as tea and coffee.
The forests are home to birds, bats and insects that pollinate crops and aid in the natural control of insect pests. With massive deforestation, these benefits are not just lost locally but impact is felt miles downstream. Gisenyi town and surrounding areas depend on the Sebeya River for water and electricity. Bralirwa (Rwanda’s main brewery) depends on Sebeya for beer production.
In the future, the riverbank protection and forest plantation initiatives along Sebeya and Satinsyi rivers are expected to restore part of the ecological connectivity of the two forests.
What next for GMNP?
The establishment of Gishwati – Mukura National Park will boost conservation of the forests’ rich biodiversity and help restore habitats and offer better protection of threatened species.
Officials are pushing for the park to be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Biosphere Reserve. For local people, the new Gishwati – Mukura National Park brings the promise of jobs in the hotels and restaurants that will be established near the park and as guides and souvenir sellers. (Tourism globally employs 1 in 11 people).
Gishwati – Mukura National Park is Rwanda’s fourth national park. The others are Volcanoes National Park, Akagera National Park and Nyungwe National Park.
But can tourists visit now?
According to the Rwandan government’s tourism site, “activities in the park are due to begin in 2019 and include a guided nature hike, guided chimp and monkey tracking, bird watching and a visit to the waterfalls.
Community-based activities include a farm stay, a live cultural dance, making handicrafts, beekeeping, a tea plantation tour and the chance to learn from traditional healers, who use natural plants to support modern medicine and synthesised drugs.”
I’ve attended the highly professional Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony a number of times and was in Rwanda recently when black rhinos were being shipped to the country. Imagine this country’s tourism in a decade or more. It’s really quite something. It looks like exciting times are ahead for this new national park and tourism in general across Rwanda.
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Rhinos to Rwanda: the largest ever transport of rhinos from Europe to Africa begins today
Rwanda’s commitment to protecting and investing in its National Parks is phenomenal. The annual Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is one example of that.
“On Sunday June 23, five critically endangered Eastern Black Rhinoceroses, born and bred in European zoo environments, will be flown 6,000 km to Akagera National Park in Rwanda. This is the largest ever translocation of rhinos from Europe to Africa.
This historic journey will begin at Safari Park Dvůr Králové (Czech Republic) where all five animals have been gathered since November 2018.
While their flight departs on Sunday June 23rd, their journey began years ago, through EAZA’s vision to supplement wild populations in secure parks in Africa with genetically-robust individuals who have been successfully bred and cared for over the years by the EAZA Ex Situ Programme (EEP).
This is a unique collaboration between the European Association of Zoos and Aquaria (EAZA), the Government of Rwanda and conservation NGO African Parks.
Fewer than 5,000 wild black rhinos and only 1,000 Eastern Black Rhinos remain in Africa; and their future is severely threatened by poaching for the illegal demand for their horns. This translocation project represents an urgent and valuable opportunity to expand the range and protection of the black rhino, and demonstrate how captive rhinos can help supplement and repopulate wild populations within secure landscapes.
Three female and two male black rhinos, ranging between two to nine years old, were chosen. Jasiri, Jasmina and Manny were born in Safari Park Dvůr Králové (Czech Republic); Olmoti comes from Flamingo Land (United Kingdom) and Mandela is from Ree Park Safari (Denmark). The rhinos are being donated to the Rwanda Development Board (RDB), the government body that manages Akagera National Park, the rhino’s new home in Rwanda, in partnership with African Parks.
All five rhinos have undergone months of sensitisation to prepare them and minimise stress to ensure the safest journey possible. During the voyage, which will be approximately 30 hours long, they will be inside custom-made crates, and fed and watered regularly. Experienced zookeepers from the Safari Park Dvůr Králové as well as veterinarian Dr. Pete Morkel, a world expert in rhino translocations, will accompany and monitor the rhinos throughout the entire trip, as well as their release into the Park.
“By undertaking a highly supervised and well-planned gradual acclimation process, we believe these rhinos will adapt well to their new environment in Rwanda. They will first be kept in bomas – enclosures made by wooden poles. Later, they will enjoy larger enclosures in a specially protected area. The final step will be to release them into the northern part of the national park where they will roam free,“ said Přemysl Rabas, Director of Safari Park Dvůr Králové.
Akagera National Park is an ideal destination for the reintroduction of the animals.
Rhinos were first reintroduced in 2017 – a decade after they were last seen in the country. In that year, African Parks successfully translocated 18 Eastern black rhinos from South Africa to Akagera in collaboration with RDB and the Howard G. Buffett Foundation. The translocation entailed a 2,485-mile journey. This success is testament to both the potential of the park to sustain a rhino population, but also to the high levels of security and effective park management. You can read more about that translocation on the African Parks website.
This video is from 2017.
Since 2010, the Park has undergone a revival with poaching practically eliminated, allowing for key species to be reintroduced. In 2015 lions were reintroduced and have since tripled in number [see photo below]. Strong community conservation efforts have resulted in tremendous support for the Park, and tourism is now leading to Akagera being 80% self-financing, generating US $2 million a year, which goes back to the Park and surrounding communities.
“We have been preparing for this moment for years and are excited to build on our efforts to revitalize the Park with the RDB and the successful introduction of the first round of rhinos in 2017,“ said Jes Gruner, Park Manager of Akagera National Park. “This transport of five rhinos from Europe is historic and symbolic, and shows what is possible when dedicated partners collaborate to help protect and restore a truly endangered species.”
These conditions also will allow for the ongoing study of the five animals from Europe and the existing population as they gradually integrate to contribute to a stable population of black rhinoceros in East Africa. The Park is a key component of the Government of Rwanda’s strategy to foster economic growth while providing a secure future for wildlife in the country.
“The translocation of five rhinos from European zoos to Rwanda will further enhance the natural ecosystem in Akagera National Park. This partnership with our European friends is a testament to Rwanda’s commitment to conservation. Today, poaching is almost non-existent in our four national parks and we are confident that these rhinos will thrive in their natural habitat in Akagera. They are a positive addition to Akagera, a Park where tourists can now visit the African Big Five,” said Clare Akamanzi, Chief Executive Officer, RDB.
The Rwanda Development Board is responsible for ensuring that the tourism and conservation goals of the Government of Rwanda are successfully implemented.
The European Association of Zoos and Aquaria comprises more than 400 zoos, aquariums and other institutions across 48 countries, collaborating for the advancement of conservation, research and education. EAZA Ex Situ Programmes is responsible for the planning and administration of over 200 programmes.
Safari Park Dvůr Králové is one of the best rhino breeders outside of Africa. So far, 46 black rhinos have been born there and the park coordinates efforts to save the northern white rhino. The park assists with conservation of rhinos, even in the wild. In 2014 and 2017, the park organized public burnings of rhino horn stockpiles to raise awareness of the plight of rhinos.
The Akagera Management Company (AMC) is a public-private partnership between RDB and African Parks and has been responsible for fully managing Akagera National Park since 2010. African Parks manages 15 national parks and protected areas covering over 10.5 million hectares in Benin, Central African Republic, Chad, the Democratic Republic of Congo, the Republic of Congo, Malawi, Mozambique, Rwanda, Zambia.”
To follow the progress of the rhinos follow #rhinostorwanda on Twitter.
The rebirth of Akagera
Akagera is almost unrecognisable today from what it had become 20 years ago when it seemed destined to be lost forever. While peace was finally restored after the 1994 Genocide against Tutsis, Akagera’s demise was just starting. Refugees returning to Rwanda after the genocide were battling to survive. Forests were cut for timber and the park’s savannah became home to tens of thousands of long-horned cattle that displaced wildlife. Rhinos disappeared and lions were hunted to local extinction. The park’s value was “diminished to the point of not existing at all.” This makes Akagera’s revival even more remarkable.
To be honest, I didn’t expect to see a lot of wildlife when I first went on safari to Akagera National Park three years ago (working in conservation in Uganda may have spoiled me!) I was therefore thrilled beyond words to see a leopard (just a few metres from us). Later we spent half an hour in the company of three young lions, offspring of the first lions reintroduced to the park.
Every safari in Akagera is more interesting than the first – I can’t wait to revisit!
