How much does it cost to track mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
How much are gorilla tracking permits in Uganda and Rwanda?
A gorilla tracking permit includes entry into the National Park, experienced ranger guides who will escort you while sharing unlimited gorilla facts, one hour with the gorillas themselves and – most importantly – bragging rights in the form of a gorilla tracking certificate (in Uganda) and endless selfies (wherever you track!) Woo hoo!
The permit is just one part of the equation of course: you also need to cover transport, accommodation, meals, tips and souvenirs…
How much are Uganda gorilla tracking permits?
| Uganda gorilla tracking fees – (Bwindi & Mgahinga) July 2024 – June 2026 | Gorilla tracking permit | Gorilla habituation experience |
|---|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 800 | USD 1,500 |
| Foreign resident (expats) in Uganda | USD 700 | USD 1,000 |
| Rest of Africa | USD 500 | USD 1,000 |
| Ugandans & EAC citizens | UGX 350,000 | UGX 750,000 |
UWA’s price list or “conservation tariff” covers: National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees; gorilla / chimpanzee tracking; boat rides; game drives; nature walks; volcano and mountain hiking, and biking. Prices are for international tourists (foreign non-residents), foreign residents (expats) and East African citizens, including Ugandans (domestic tourists). Read a summary of UWA’s fees for 2024 to 2016 (with links to some of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite blogs).
How much are Rwanda gorilla tracking permits?
UPDATE 2024: Until 31 December 2024, Rwandans, expats and all Africans can track gorillas in Rwanda at the discounted prices listed above.
| Rwanda gorilla tracking fees (2024 fees) | Gorilla tracking permit |
|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 1,500 |
| Foreign residents in Africa (expats) including Rwanda | USD 500 |
| African citizens | USD 500* |
| Rwandans & EAC citizens | USD 200* |
- After repositioning itself as an upmarket tourist destination, in May 2017 Rwanda increased gorilla tracking permits to $1500 each, regardless of whether you were an international tourist, expat or East African residents. That sounds like a bum deal for local people (but RDB argue that only a tiny percentage of permits were sold to locals).
- Rwanda has an exclusive package for tourists who would like to book a whole family of gorillas. Priced at US$ 15,000, the group get access to exclusive personalised tour guiding.
- Visitors to Rwanda who track the gorillas and visit Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Parks for a minimum of three days will qualify for a 30% discount on their gorilla permit.
- International visitors attending conferences in Rwanda are eligible for a 15% discount on gorilla permit fees if tracking the gorillas before or after their conference.
How much are DRC gorilla tracking permits?
Gorilla tracking permits in the DRC are very cheap by comparison. Congolese citizens have preferential pricing but other East Africans don’t.
What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
For the best value for money, most visitors to East Africa will combine gorilla trekking with a Safari before or after their trip.
Booking your gorilla permits yourself and travelling by public transport is possible but there are pitfalls to be aware of. The downside of making your own arrangements is that you can sometimes end up incurring more costs. If, for example, you miss your bus or it breaks down (not uncommon) you might miss your gorilla trek. Permits are non-refundable, meaning if you arrive a day late, then you will have missed your slot. Most visitors therefore travel on a scheduled group tour or book their own driver and vehicle, usually through a tour company, such as one of the registered companies featured in my Travel Directory.
The other pitfall to avoid when arranging gorilla tracking yourself in Uganda is booking accommodation that is a long way from the gorilla family you are tracking. You will have to be up very early on the morning of your tracking so you want to stay as close as possible to the park headquarters. (Uganda’s gorilla families are spread several hours apart).
The average mid-range three day gorilla safari costs approximately $1200, depending on the number of people in your group. The cheapest way to see the gorillas is to travel on a scheduled overland trip during low season. If a tour is advertised to include gorilla tracking then the cost of the permit should be included in the price you are quoted, but do read the small print carefully!
A top of the range luxury gorilla Safari may cost $3 – $5,000 per person and may include fly-in options and five-star accommodation.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the links in the
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a lot of time (and money) applying for separate visas for the three countries: Kenya + Rwanda + Uganda. Most tourist visas are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.
1. Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
2. How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala, for example).
3. How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
4. Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, (former) Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new visa.
5. Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. The official line is that you cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa (although Rwanda states that you “may in exceptional circumstances.”To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below.
6. Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”
7. How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2024: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. For Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visas. For Rwanda, apply online in advance or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. Make sure you get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa online. Alternatively, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip.
NOTE: October 2024. I have spent some time understanding Kenya’s eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation). Kenya claims it is now “visa free” yet most passport holders have to instead apply – and pay for – the eTA. Confused? Yes I was! Here’s Diary of a Muzungu’s advice on how to apply for Kenya’s eTA, along with some useful extra links below:
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa and Interstate Pass applications. (The Interstate Pass is available to East African residents).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, you can get your East Africa Tourist Visa on arrival. Read my blog post Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals, which I update regularly.
However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer. Use Irembo, the Rwandan government’s online visa application system. Click here to apply and look for ‘visa application.’ Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.”
For more guidance on the East Africa Tourist Visa in Rwanda, see Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa on the goevernment website.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the official Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to apply for your East Africa Tourist Visa. My blog Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more. I update these visa posts regularly.
You can also request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: immigration request a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration; they will always have the last word. If you do not have a detailed itinerary or evidence of where you will be staying, upload a letter explaining your plans, or immigration may deny you an EATV.
8. What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop!
NOTE: October 2024. I am reviewing the guidance for Kenya: scroll down for link to apply online for Interstate Pass.
Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.
In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.
March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.
9. Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
The East Africa Tourist Visa is only valid in Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda but we hope one day more countries will join the EATV party.
The East African Community has eight member states. In alphabetical order, these are:
- Democratic Republic of the CONGO
- Republic of BURUNDI
- Republic of KENYA
- Republic of RWANDA
- Federal Republic of SOMALIA
- Republic of SOUTH SUDAN
- Republic of UGANDA
- United Republic of TANZANIA
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.
Notes from friends and travelers regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who often make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
- If in doubt, it’s always best to apply online in advice and/or contact the muzungu. Don’t get stranded!
Any feedback or questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident and I regularly travel to Kenya and Rwanda. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues and visitors, supported by the advice of an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya (or wider East Africa) I’m your woman! What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
Rwanda – visa on arrival for all travelers [UPDATED]
How do I apply for Rwanda visas? Rwanda now issues visa on arrival for all visitors (although online application is available too).
UPDATE: October 2024. Visa on arrival is still available for visitors to Rwanda.
You have to hand it to the Rwandans, these guys are serious about tourism! Rwanda has opened its borders to travelers from all countries. Everyone can apply for #VisaOnArrival (and for many nationalities, there’s no charge!)
Here is the official communique on the new visa regime. Letter dated March 2020 (and still valid at the time of updating this post, October 2024).
The muzungu’s understanding is that: nearly all nationalities can enter Rwanda at no cost. What differs is the amount of time you get: from 30 / 60 or 90 days, depending on your nationality.
To summarise the official Rwanda government site “If you’re a citizen of a country in the African Union, the Commonwealth or La Francophonie (French-speaking countries), not only can you get visa upon arrival, but visa fees are waived for a visit of 30 days.”
The same page also states that “A citizen of one the eight East African Community states shall be issued a visa on arrival free of charge for a stay of up to six months.”
The following countries can get a visa on arrival free of charge for up to 90 days: Angola, Benin, Central African Republic, Chad, Cote d’Ivoire, Democratic Republic of Congo, The Federation of Saint Christopher and Nevis, Ghana, Guinea, Indonesia, Haiti, Mauritius, Philippines, Senegal, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Sao Tome and Principe, Singapore and the state of Qatar. Check this list on Rwanda’s immigration site.
“Citizens of all countries that all not visa-exempt have the option to apply online or at Rwanda Diplomatic Missions of their country of residence before departure. Those applying online can pay online or upon arrival in Rwanda. NOTE: No agents are authorised to apply for a visa on your behalf. Beware: such agents may mislead and overcharge you.” The visa fees for this category of traveller are $50 USD (single entry visa) or $70 USD (multiple entry visa).
Click here to apply at the Rwanda Government Portal, Irembo. Here you have full guidance on what you need to apply. (Allow at least 7 days before you travel).
How do I apply for Rwanda tourist visas in 2024?
You can just rock up!
The ability to get visa on arrival in Rwanda sends a clear and positive message to tourists and it reaffirms ease of movement for East Africans within the region. It’s easier for Rwanda-based expats to travel in and out of the country too. This announcement makes it easier for the Rwandan diaspora (travelling on passports from other countries) to visit their home country as well. It’s an inclusive approach, and I like it.
You can also apply online in advance for your Rwanda tourist visa
Go to the Rwandan government’s Irembo website. Scroll down to Immigration and click on Visa application. Visa processing time is 7 days.
Note that the only two websites that issue Rwanda tourist visas are Irembo and Rwanda Government Immigration site. There have been cases of fraudsters tricking people into parting with money and not issuing visas. There are also companies that pretend to be official sites and organise visas for you (but take a large commission in a rather underhand way). Use either of the two above links and avoid the scammers and extra charges.
Which nationalities need visas to enter Rwanda?
Click here for a list of countries who are exempt from needing tourist visas for Rwanda; rules for Rwandans with dual nationailty; foreign residents in Rwanda; children below 16 years. Letter dated March 2020.
Got a question about visas? Read my blog about Ugandan tourist visas and my Definitive Guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa. I update these tourist visa blogs frequently and regularly answer travelers’ questions. Feel free to ask in the comments or contact me directly. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident and I regularly travel to Rwanda. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues and visitors, supported by the advice of an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya (or wider East Africa) I’m your woman! What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks I bet you haven’t tried
An introduction to Rwandan foods – a snacking guide for hungry travellers!
Trying new foods is such an integral part of the travel experience.
As well as the regular packets of biscuits and bottles of sodas and water, the small bus park in Musanze (stop off point for tracking the gorillas in Rwanda) has an interesting selection of snacks for the traveller.
Rwanda seems remarkably free from the heavy, starchy snacks like chapatti, mandazi and ‘defenders’ (‘defender from hunger’ cakes), and even sambosas (samosas) that we have everywhere in Uganda.
In Rwanda, you might break up your bus journey by munching on:
- Hard-boiled eggs, served with hot akabanga chilli oil of course!
- Fresh groundnuts in their shells
- Cape gooseberries – in a plastic bag! – in Rwanda?
- Strings of bright orange tangerines
- Igikwanga (chewy snack made of cassava flour) pictured above. On its own igikwanga has little taste. Eat it with groundnuts and it’s rather interesting.
- Strings of sweet tree tomatoes (it’s rare to see these in Uganda)
I really enjoy Rwandan food and have been known to bring a few titbits back with me to Uganda. Some of the favourite items I’ve found so far are:
- Nyirangarama strawberry jam. I love strawberries and they are rare to find in Uganda. This strawberry jam is made in Rwanda. It’s delectable and full of fruit.
- Gishwati cheese. This mild flavoured Gouda-type cheese is very moorish and can withstand a two-day journey back to my village in western Uganda! It’s better priced than any such quality cheese in Uganda. Did you know Gishwati – Mukura is Rwanda’s newest National Park?
- At Red Rocks Initiatives in Musanze, I tasted potato wine and banana beer. My friend David loved the banana beer so much, he wrote a whole story about it.
- Rwanda is known for its good quality tea and coffee. Tourists that track the gorillas are given smart-looking presentation boxes of tea or coffee as a memento of their experience.
- Akagera ‘buffer honey’ is harvested from beehives near the boundary of Akagera National Park.
- Nyirangarama must be Rwanda’s most popular stopover – and the BEST place I’ve found in East Africa for enjoying baked (Irish) potatoes! I’m drooling just remembering them. They are big, cheap and always ready. They also sell chips. The shop next door sells whole Gishwati cheese, akabanga chilli oil, fresh bread, mandazi (donuts), strawberry yoghurt, Uganda Waragi, takeaway buffet and other snacks. (There’s a free – clean – toilet nearby too).
- If you’re staying at a tourist hotel, you can often get a packed lunch to take on your journey. The lunch box provided by the Kigali Serena Hotel is one of the smartest I’ve seen. I particularly like the local products.
- However, by far my favourite takeaway on my last trip to Rwanda was this fantastic sambaza (fish) and matooke chips lunch! Thank you and murakoze to Bethany Hotel on Lake Kivu for this filling and tasty lunch.
These are some of my favourite Rwandan snacks and foods – and I haven’t even mentioned brochettes and the excellent beers!
Trying local food is such an important part of my travels and so is taking public transport, but beware the ‘helpful porter’ at Musanze who grabs hold of your bag as you exit the bus and demands 500 Rwanda francs to haul it 100 metres!
“No way!” I told him. “I dragged my heavy bag for 20 minutes and no-one paid me!” I joked indignantly in a language he did not understand. I pulled a face and the price dropped to 100 RWF – for a service I didn’t really need.
Which are your favourite East African foods? If you are in Uganda, it may be the rolex! Mombasa street food is a favourite of mine too.
Trunk call: Jim Nyamu walks across East Africa to protect elephants
Have you heard about Jim Justus Nyamu’s cross-continental walks? Read about Ivory Belongs to Elephants’ East-Central Africa campaign walk
An amazing feat! 🐘 (Or should I say feet?) 👣
Jim campaigns tirelessly to protect elephants. He’s walked 1000s of miles / km and this is his 16th Campaign Walk for Elephants. His aim: to encourage African nations to work closely to protect this species that knows no borders.
Jim Justus Nyamu, *OGW, is the Founder and Executive Director of the Elephant Neighbors Center, a non-profit whose mission is “to protect the African Elephant and secure landscapes for elephants outside protected areas.” The brand Ivory Belongs to Elephants™ focuses on raising awareness locally, nationally, and internationally of the plight of African Elephants, primarily through their advocacy walks.
The East-Central Africa walk started in Nairobi, Kenya, on July 29th and passed through Nakuru, Mau Forest, Tinderet, Kakamega and Malaba (Mount Elgon). In Uganda, Jim walked through Mabira Forest, Kampala, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mbarara, Lake Mburo and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; now in Rwanda, Jim will visit Kigali, and Akagera National Park; and onto Goma, Virunga National Park, Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. This four-month walk will cover approximately 3,200 km. The walks offer solutions to mitigating human-wildlife conflict and highlight the direct importance of wildlife to affected communities.
This most iconic of African species is being pushed towards extinction – slaughtered by poachers to supply a worldwide ivory trade worth up to US$20 billion a year. Despite a ban in many countries, the killing is only getting worse. There are now estimated to be only 350,000 elephants left in Africa, with approximately 20,000 being killed every year. African elephants will be extinct in our lifetime if this rate of loss continues.
Ivory belongs to elephants press release
Elephants are crucial in:
- dispersing seeds +
- keeping the habitat open for grazing animals +
- fighting climate change by contributing to natural carbon capture +
- attracting millions of tourists who make substantial contributions to sub-Saharan Africa’s economies +
- so much more!
Jim and his team have been walking to raise awareness since 2013. By the end of the current campaign, they will have walked almost 20,000 km across Africa, the United States, and the UK, connecting with over 16,000 schools, and holding over 900 community meetings along the the campaign walks.
Jim also walks in the US and Europe to raise awareness in international communities that are still trading in ivory. For example, despite the 2018 announcement of the UK government’s plans to ban sale and export of most ivory items, the trade in ivory and live elephants is still legal in several countries.
If you see Jim, why not join the walk for an hour or even a day? 👣
Better still, you can support the team on the ground by making a donation. (I know how grim it is to try and sleep in a soggy tent!)
You can send directly to Jim Justus Nyamu via Momo +256 784755115 or Mpesa +254 713353060 or donate on the Ivory belongs to elephants gofundme page. Find out more on the Ivory belongs to elephants on Facebook.
(*OGW is the Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya is an award presented to individuals in recognition of an outstanding service rendered to the country).
Do Rwanda’s baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?
“Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony?” has to be one of the funniest questions I’ve ever been asked!*
The #FOMO [Fear Of Missing Out] is real this week as Rwanda hosts a week-long celebration of conservation and tourism, most visible at the 19th edition of Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony on Friday 1st September. It’s a brilliantly organised event that attracts people from near and far: locals attend for the free performances by local artistes; international ambassadors jet in to name baby gorillas; the rest of us love networking with tourism and conservation colleagues from across Africa as we tour the country and experience The Land of a Thousand Hills‘ growing list of attractions.
What is Kwita Izina?
Kwita Izina is modelled on a tradition in which Rwandans come together as a community to name their children. Since 2005 this has become an official, public event and a global celebration of nature and Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism. It’s no accident that the Chief Guest is President Kagame and many of his supporters; but you have to hand it to him, this is a really slick show.
374 mountain gorillas have been named over the last 18 years of Kwita Izina.
Rwanda works hard to thank the vets, conservationists, wildlife rangers, donors, tourism experts, international influencers and of course the local community. Media from all nations are in abundance at every event. But this is far more than a free day out for the local community; it’s a public celebration of Rwanda itself too.
What happens at the gorilla naming ceremony?
I’ve been hosted media at Kwita Izina on a number of occasions, courtesy of Rwanda Development Board and The Gorilla Organization. These were great opportunities to research my updates for Horizon Guides and for the Rwanda chapter of Fodor’s Travel’s “The Complete Guide to the African Safari” (and Diary of a Muzungu too of course!)
In 2013 I wrote BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony. That year I was a guest of The Gorilla Organization NGO, thanks to Jillian Miller and TGO Chair Ian Redmond. It was an honour to interview Kwita Izina‘s creator Rosette Rugamba at Hotel Muhabura, made famous by Dian Fossey.
Who gets to name Rwanda’s gorilla babies? What do the given names mean? And what is the format of the Kwita Izina event?
You’ll be amazed at the diversity of the attendees! Read more in Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!” my account from 2018.
Who will name the gorillas at Kwita Izina in 2023?
- Bukola Elemide, known as Asa, French singer, songwriter, and recording artist
- Danai Gurira, Actress, activist and playwright
- Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser Al-Missned, Co-Founder and Chairperson, Qatar Foundation
- Bernard Lama, SG Legend
- Sol Campbell, Arsenal Legend
- Idrissa Akuna “Idris” Elba OBE and Sabrina Dhowre Elba
- British actor, producer, and musician. Sabrina is a Canadian model and spouse to Idris Elba
- Cyrille Bolloré, CEO, Bolloré
- H.E. Hazza AlQahtani, Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates to the Republic of Rwanda
- Rt. Hon. Andrew Mitchell MP, Member of Parliament of the United Kingdom
- Joakim Noah, Former professional basketball player
- Kevin Hart, Comedian and Actor
- Winston Duke, Actor and Producer
- Jonathan Ledgard, Novelist
- Zurab Pololikashvili, Secretary General of the United Nations World Tourism Organizations
- Audrey Azoulay, Director General of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation
- Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO of Bestseller retail clothing chain
- Larry Green, Trustee, African Wildlife Foundation Board
- Joe Schoendorf, Silicon Valley Pioneer
- Nick Stone, Lead director of Wilderness Safaris
- Innocent Dusabeyezu
- Ineza Umuhoza Grace, Founder and CEO of the Green Protector
- Elvine Ineza, Primary Six Student at Regina Pacis School in Musanze District
- Queen Kalimpinya, Rwandan Rally Car Driver and Gender Equality Advocate
Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?
*No, the mountain gorillas do not attend the naming ceremony “in person”. They are safe in the sanctuary of Volcanoes National Park blissfully unaware of the thousands of people gathered to celebrate and advocate for their continued survival.
Did you know that if you visit Rwanda during the first week of September, you can get a free invitation to attend Kwita Izina?
If you’re planning to track the gorillas in Rwanda, visit at the end of August or the beginning of September and you can get a free invitation to Kwita Izina. There is tight security (President Kagame attends every year) so invitations need to be planned well in advance through a tour operator or conservation organisation. Other related activities this week include the 2-day Business of Conservation Conference in Kigali, a conservation exhibition and a gala dinner.
Another uniquely Rwandan event that takes place during the same period is the Red Rocks Cultural Festival, in nearby Musanze.
Looking for a tour operator to help you plan a trip to Rwanda or Uganda? Check out my Travel Directory or contact the muzungu.
Celebrate Rwandan culture at the Red Rocks Cultural Festival!
The Red Rocks Cultural Festival is a week-long celebration of traditional Rwandan culture and community conservation that takes place at the end of August / early September every year.
Would you like to learn a few words of Kinyarwanda? Fancy taking part in a cooking demonstration? Do you LOVE dancing? Scroll down for the 2023 programme.
If you’re heading to Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda to track the gorillas or to attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony, then make sure you don’t miss the 11th Red Rocks Cultural Festival which takes place in Musanze in Rwanda’s Northern Province.
Which activities are taking place during the 2023 Red Rocks Cultural Festival?
- Traditional Rwandan cultural music and dance.
- Drumming!
- Exhibition of Rwandan cultural artwork (baskets, table mats, bamboo cups, pottery) and more, made by youth and women cooperatives.
- Around the campfire: Red Rocks Twataramye (music featuring all types of cultural musical instruments, story-telling, theater and poems).
- Cooking demonstrations and language workshops.
- Birdwatching and nature trails.
- The festival culminates with the Gorilla naming ceremony (Kwita Izina) Kinigi on slopes of Virunga mountains and the “Crazy night of the Gorillas” party at Mukungwa river side, Musanze Town.
- The programme includes talks, workshops, tree-planting, sports activities and a talent contest!
Where is the Cultural Festival taking place? What are the dates for 2023?
Activities will take place next to Volcanoes National Park venue in Kinigi and at the Red Rocks Cultural Center, 8 km from Musanze. In 2023, the Red Rocks Festival will be from August 25th to September 1st.
Is there a cost to take part in the Red Rocks Cultural Festival?
Most activities are FREE OF CHARGE. Since its launch 11 years ago, the Red Rocks Cultural Festival has brought positive gains to communities. The week enhances the connections between tourism, conservation and community development. Be part of it!
Do you have any questions about the Red Rocks Cultural Festival 2023?
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay near Musanze, check out the popular Red Rocks Campsite. I feature Red Rocks in my blog “The land of 1000 – surprises! A solo exploration of Rwanda.”
You can also contact Red Rocks directly on +250 784685285 or info@redrocksrwanda.com and www.redrocksrwanda.com
How to photograph the mountain gorillas
Tips for taking good photos of gorillas
If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.
In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.
In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.
You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.
Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:
If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:
- Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
- Always take extra memory cards.
- Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
- Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
- Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
- It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
- Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
- Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.
Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).
Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.
Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Are mountain gorillas endangered?
What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?
Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that mountain gorillas were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.
“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.” The Gorilla Organization
Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.
“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.” Dian Fossey, interviewed at her camp in Rwanda (May 1985)
The mountain gorilla population in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254* gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population passed the 1,000 mark. In 2023, the cross-border census confirmed almost 1,200 individuals. (*As conservation biologist Ian Redmond OBE explained to me in our conversations for the East Africa Travel Podcast, the figure was closer to 350 individuals (not the usually quoted 250). This is because the 1981 figure did not include the entire mountain gorilla habitat).
Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare; however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.
Rafiki – the first mountain gorilla to be killed by poachers in a decade
During lockdown of June 2020, we were appalled to learn of the killing of Rafiki, the Silverback mountain gorilla from Nkuringo, southern sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Rafiki was the first mountain gorilla to have been killed by poachers in a decade and the Nkuringo gorilla family was the first gorilla group to be habituated in the southern sector of Bwindi, in 1997. Conservation and tourism circles were in shock at this senseless killing.
This was one of the realities of the pandemic: less people in the parks (tourists, guides, rangers and researchers) meant more opportunities for poachers. With tourism closed for many months, guides and staff were home, many unpaid, and there was no ‘trickle-down effect’ to the wider community.
Justice was swift: withing a few weeks, the culprit was sentenced to 11 years in prison for a number of counts of poaching. Executive Director of Uganda Wildlife Authority, Sam Mwandha stated “This should serve as an example to other people who kill wildlife.”
Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.
If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.
The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.
In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.
Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?
For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, visit:
- Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) is responsible for Uganda’s wildlife. UWA manages the country’s National Parks and Wildlife Reserves, under the Ministry of Tourism Wildlife and Antiquities.
- Rwanda Development Board is the government department that oversees conservation and tourism.
- Virunga National Park, DR Congo
- Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)
- The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
- Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)
- Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project
- International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP
- Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF
- Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe
Gorilla tracking tourism and community initiatives help raise funds and awareness about the endangered mountain gorillas yet much as mountain gorilla conservation is lauded as a success, growing human populations continue to exert pressure on protected areas. Climate change and the increase in zoonotic diseases are exacerbating these tensions. We must remain vigilant!
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Gorilla Tracking Rules [UPDATED]
What are the rules for tracking the Mountain Gorillas? Why do we need them?
- Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and Rwanda Development Board (RDB) have clear rules and regulations to protect both gorillas and the humans that track them.
- The ranger guides will do their utmost to find the gorillas for you. These conservation rangers are in frequent radio contact, constantly monitoring the health, safety and whereabouts of the mountain gorilla populations.
- Although no tourist has ever been seriously hurt by a habituated gorilla, you should always remember that an adult gorilla is several times stronger than a human, and can be disturbed by human activity, particularly if the gorillas are nursing infants or sick – or simply not in the mood to be disturbed!
- The maximum group size for tracking the gorillas is 8 to 10 people per group
- Gorilla trackers must be fit and in good health. Trekking in thick forest at heights over 2,000 metres, traversing steep mountains and ravines can be tough and frequently wet. Gorillas are susceptible to many human diseases, including COVID-19, diarrhoea, colds and the flu. You should not go gorilla tracking if you have any of these.
- Your cough or sneeze can be lethal to a gorilla. Gorilla tracking was closed for many months at the start of the pandemic but has reopened. However, stricter regulations are in place to track all mountain gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. For example, as soon as you enter the National Park you must wear a good quality facemask. You must keep the mask on at all times. When you find the gorillas, you will be asked to put on a clean facemask.
- Gorillas can catch diseases from discarded human rubbish. Don’t litter or spit while in the gorillas’ habitat.
- Do not touch the gorillas, even if they come close. They can be very curious.
- Do not make any sudden movements.
- If a gorilla charges, do not run away. Stay calm. Slowly crouch down and avoid direct eye contact, until the gorilla moves away in its own time.
- Leave a distance of at least ten metres between you and the gorillas – although the gorillas do not always stick to this rule! If the gorillas start moving towards you, the rangers may advise you to move backwards away from them. (Pre-pandemic, experts said we should keep seven metres distance; this has been upwardly revised to 10 metres).
- Do not surround the gorillas. View them from a distance and in groups.
- One hour is allowed with the gorillas.
- Personal DVD recorders are allowed. Professional filmmakers need to purchase filming permits in advance from UWA or RDB.
- If you need to go to the toilet while you are in the forest, tell your guide, and they will dig a hole for you. Make sure you cover the hole afterwards to prevent possible transfer of disease to the gorilla population.
- You will be given a list of the Gorilla Tracking Rules with your tracking permit and reminded of them again on the morning of your gorilla trek.
- Flash photography is not allowed. It can be difficult to capture good photos of the gorillas under the dark canopy of the rainforest. If you have a film camera, fast film (400-1600 ASA) is useful.
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Packing list for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda
What equipment do I need to bring to track the gorillas? What clothes should I wear?
Since day porters are very affordable, you can pack all the recommended gorilla tracking clothing, equipment and water, without having to worry about how you will carry it.
Here’s my recommended packing list for tracking the gorillas:
- Walking boots or shoes (boots are better because they have better grip and support your ankles on hilly terrain)
- Breathable waterproof jacket and trousers. Even if it doesn’t rain, the ground and vegetation are generally wet. Wearing waterproof trousers means you can kneel to get gorilla photos or slide down slippery slopes.
- Long-sleeved shirt (to protect yourself from tree branches, the sun and insects)
- Gaiters (or long socks) to tuck long trousers into (to correct legs from scratches and keep insects out)
- A fleece or light wool sweater
- Sunglasses, sunscreen and sunhat
- Gloves to grip the vegetation (dime store or ‘pound shop’ gardening gloves are perfect!)
- Camera equipment
- A walking pole. If you don’t have one, I highly recommend taking up the offer of a walking pole or stick. Sometimes the lodge provides them, other times, the guide may cut one for you from bamboo. Even one pole can be a big help for climbing up and easing yourself back down steep or muddy hills
- Include plenty of water. Hydration is very important. Your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and drinking water. (Don’t be afraid to ask for more than one bottle!)
- Tips (at your discretion) for your rangers and porter
- Lastly and most importantly: don’t forget to take your gorilla trekking permit and your passport (or the identification you used when reserving your permit). You will need to show your ID at the pre-tracking briefing.
- Pack all of this in a small backpack
Mornings in the mountains can be cool and nights can be surprisngly cold. You will probably experience mist and quite possibly rain while you are tracking the gorillas. It can also get quite hot, from the sun and/or the hiking uphill. Layered clothing is recommended, ideally the ‘wick-away’ moisture type.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure! [UPDATED]
Gorilla tracking – a typical day: what to expect
I shall never forget my first encounter with gorillas. Sound preceded sight. Odor preceded sound in the form of an overwhelming, musky-barnyard, humanlike scent. The air was suddenly rent by a high-pitched series of screams followed by the rhythmic rondo of sharp pok-pok chestbeats from a great silverbacked male obscured behind what seemed an impenetrable wall of vegetation.
Dian Fossey in Gorillas in the Mist (1983) describing her 1963 trip to Kabara. (The screams and chest-beating were of alarm, not ferocity.)
Part of the excitement of tracking the gorillas is wondering exactly where you will find them! As their name suggests, Mountain gorillas live at high altitude. The dense jungle, altitude and muddy terrain can be tiring and some visitors may find the tracking very challenging. Keep your own pace and drink plenty of water. Avoid getting dehydrated.
After early breakfast, your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and plenty of drinking water. (Check that the packed lunch has been organised when you retire to bed the night before you track). Even if the weather looks fine before you embark on your hike, the higher you get, the more it rains (so don’t forget your rain gear!)
The once in a lifetime gorilla tracking experience starts with an early morning briefing, around 7.30 to 8 AM depending where you are tracking. You will be reminded of the Gorilla Trekking Rules, in place to protect the gorillas and their precious habitat. One of the main rules is that if you are feeling ill, you are obliged to advise the authorities. They will decide whether you are healthy enough to trek. Remember that the health of the critically endangered gorillas is more important than your holiday: a cold or the flu can be fatal to a gorilla.
After your briefing, you will have the opportunity to hire a porter for the day. Highly recommended!
Although one family is sometimes found very near to the start of the gorilla tracking in Uganda, generally you will walk for an hour or more before you find the gorillas. The countryside is incredibly beautiful. For me, the trek is a wonderful part of the whole experience.
Radio contact between the wildlife rangers and information from the previous day’s gorilla sightings make it possible for the rangers to guide you to the right place to find the gorillas.
As you come within range, the rangers will ask you to leave your bags and non-essentials so you can approach the gorillas more closely, cameras at the ready. Take time to simply enjoy the presence of these amazing animals. Do come out from behind the camera lens occasionally.
Immediately I was struck by the physical magnificence of the huge jet-black bodies blended against the green palette wash of the thick forest foliage.
Dian Fossey, Gorillas in the Mist
You will spend an hour with the gorillas, during which time they may be munching on bamboo, hanging from the trees above your head, grooming each other, suckling their babies, playing, sleeping, farting or even having sex! You just never know what to expect.
One of the most important Gorilla Trekking Rules is to keep a distance of seven metres from the gorillas. There’s no guarantee that the gorillas will stick to this however! You will often move around the forest while you are with them. If they approach you, the rangers will ask you to step back. Equally if they walk into the forest, you may be allowed to follow them a little way. Sometimes you will see the gorillas in a light clearing. At other times they will be in dark forest. You need to bear this in mind if you’re planning to take a lot of photos. Bring fast film, if you’re shooting film. Regardless of what type of camera you have, you must always make sure the flash is switched off.
The route back to the park headquarters is often shorter, although some tracks may involve you climbing back uphill in places.
Back at base in Uganda, you will be given your gorilla trekking certificate. Bragging rights, yeah!
(Rwanda used to issue paper certificates too and may offer some similar recognition again in the future. In 2018, RDB were giving trackers beautiful presentation boxes of tea or coffee – Rwandese of course).
The UWA and RDB conservation ranger guides are very knowledgeable and will take good care of you while you are in the forest. These ranger guys (and occasionally girls) will help you negotiate sometimes steep and often muddy ground too. Whether you have questions about the gorillas, or about the wildlife, birds and plants of the forest, feel free to ask. The guides know each gorilla family intimately and can tell you the names and habits of each family member. There is so much to learn about these fascinating and humble primates.
Tips for the rangers are discretionary but very much appreciated. Estimate $15-20 per tracker/ranger. Tips should be in small US dollar bills (dated post-2006) or local currency (Uganda shillings or Rwandese francs, depending on which country you are trekking in).
What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Uganda
Gorilla tracking registration and briefing take place at the Uganda Wildlife Authority park offices from 7.45 am and tracking usually starts at 8.30 am. It is here that you will be given the name of the specific gorilla family you are tracking. Some gorilla families are easier to track than others; it all depends at what altitude they range, or what distance they cover during the day. It normally takes 1 to 3 hours tracking time (each way) to find your gorilla family. If you’re fit, pushing through the dense jungle of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, with a ranger hacking through the occasional branch with his machete in front of you, can be quite an adventure! I LOVE IT!
What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Rwanda
Tea and coffee are provided from around 7.00 am for gorilla tracking visitors assembled in Kinigi, where entertainment was once provided by the traditional Intore dancers from SACOLA (Sabyinyo Community Livelihoods Association). In 2018, entertainment was provided by a large TV screen showing happy trackers. (Bring back the dancers, I say!)
In Rwanda, your gorilla family will be assigned to you at the early morning briefing. The fitter (and more willing!) you are, the more likely you are to be allocated a gorilla family that involves a longer trek. The rangers assess you according to your health, general fitness, age and interests.
You can opt for a short hike (of between 30 minutes to an hour), a medium one (from one hour to three hours) or a longer hike to the large Susa group, which may take the whole day.
Gorilla tracking in Rwanda generally starts with a 45 minute walk up gently sloping farmland. The backdrop of the volcanoes is spectacular and the air is pure. As you approach the park entrance, the ground becomes steeper and thick with bamboo.
Depending on the group you are with, your total tracking time will take 30 minutes to four hours (in either direction). Generally, gorilla tracking is less strenuous in Rwanda than in Uganda.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
