Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022]
Where are you celebrating Christmas Day? And which is Kampala’s best hotel for New Year?
DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.
Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.
Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel
Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel
Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel
Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala
Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.
Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022
Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala
The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.
Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala
Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala
Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!
Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala
Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.
Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you 😉
Go Wild in UG! The Muzungu chats with Wanderlust readers
Wanderlust Travel Magazine: live webinar answering FAQs about Uganda safaris, gorilla vs. chimp tracking, where to see the Shoebill in Uganda, self-drive vs. guided tours…
I had to pinch myself when travel expert Mr Philip Briggs asked whether I’d have time to talk live to readers of the famous Wanderlust Travel Magazine. Well, YES! There’s nothing I like better than waxing lyrical about my favourite subject: travel to Uganda!
Wanderlust Travel Magazine “More than 300 of you tuned into our Uganda event to hear Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu, speak live from this incredible country alongside other expert speakers and the Uganda Tourism Board. We learned all about Uganda’s incredible wildlife and fascinating culture.
Featured image of leopard in tree. PHOTO by Peter Hogel. Courtesy MJ Safaris Uganda.
Scroll down to watch the – very lively! – recording “to explore the unspoiled and wildlife-filled landscapes of Uganda. During this virtual evening of travel, we will be meeting the experts who will bring to life the huge biodiversity, local culture and space for adventure in this incredible part of the world.”
Where was Charlotte talking from?
“I was talking live from Kyaninga Lodge a high-end lodge near Fort Portal and Kibale Forest in western Uganda (a good base for chimp tracking).”
Can you drive yourself around Uganda or is it easier to hire a driver?
“Self-drive holidays in Uganda are possible but not recommended if you haven’t done an African road trip before. We always recommend having a driver guide. They know every road – and pothole! They will tell you what time you need to leave your lodge for your next activity, maintain your vehicle and generally be a really good addition to your experience of Uganda. Ideally hire a trained guide with expertise in your particular interest e.g. safari, birding, culture, etc. If you do choose to self-drive, don’t drive at night. Very few roads are lit so driving can be dangerous. I frequently take bus trips between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. Buses are incredibly cheap but they don’t have the best safety reputation. (Some of them have seatbelts but few ever work). Large buses ply city routes. Between towns, you will need to catch a matatu minivan taxi, which are very cramped.”
Can you self-drive in Uganda’s National Parks?
“Yes it’s possible to drive yourself in Uganda’s National Parks but you must stick to the marked tracks. Failure to do so may result in a cash fine or even eviction from the park. If you travel independently, you will need to have a Uganda Wildlife Authority armed ranger escort, at your (small) cost. Choose the right one, and you will have an expert guide to your Uganda safari. Although the idea of doing your own game drive sounds exciting, local people know exactly where the different wildlife hunts and sleeps. (It’s amazing what you may drive past while looking in the other direction!)”
What budget do you recommend per day, excluding air fares, for a Ugandan safari?
“Options can vary wildly according to the standard of accommodation and the number of people in your group. You generally pay a little more for lodges and hotels inside a National Park. Uganda has a range of accommodation from homestays and campsites to mid-range hotels and luxury lodges with spas and butler service. Daily rate would usually include: 4×4 vehicle (often a minibus van) with English-speaking driver and fuel; accommodation and meals; some activities such as game drives and nature walks (the more expensive gorilla / chimp tracking permits are usually charged extra).
Generally speaking, allow a budget of $200 or more / day to cover all of the above. If opting to stay in high-end lodges, daily rates would start at $450 per person. [Prices estimated April 2022]. For best value, travel in a group of four or more.” Looking for a tour operator? Check out my Travel Directory.
How accessible and reliable is medical care for tourists in Uganda?
“The first thing to remember is to buy travel insurance before you travel to Uganda. It’s easy to access basic medical advice and clinics in Uganda but if you take regular medication, do bring a good supply with you. It can be difficult to access certain medicines outside Kampala, however, you will easily find malaria testing and treatment facilities, for example. Malaria prevention is always better than cure. Minimise health risks by taking antimalarials, sleeping under a mosquito net and alerting your guide or tour company if you are feeling unwell. Drink filtered or bottled water (few tourists complain of stomach upsets in Uganda).
For more serious health issues, you would need to get to a town or even Kampala. Medivac evacuation (by helicopter for example) is available but very expensive. Compared to many countries, Uganda has not been badly hit by COVID-19. Read Uganda travel advice I ignored – my advice on various health and safety issues based on my 10+ years living in Uganda.”
How does chimpanzee tracking differ from mountain gorilla tracking?
They’re big and they’re hairy – but other than that these two great apes are radically different. Mountain gorillas are huge but gentle vegetarians. Chimpanzees are nutters!
Mountain gorillas spend most of their day on the ground, sleeping and farting. Chimpanzees can cover a big range up in the trees. (Yes, ok, they also fart a lot!)
Gorilla tracking is amazing because of the rainforest territory and the climb through the mist to find them. Chimp tracking is hilarious – they are so like us. (Or are we like them?)
I love both primate tracking experiences. I can’t say one is better than the other but price is definitely a consideration. In 2022 in Uganda, it costs $700 for a gorilla tracking permit. By comparison, a chimp tracking permit is between $50 to $200, depending which National Park or Forest Reserve you track in. Read the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s conservation fees for tariff for 2022- 2024.
Where is the best place to see giraffe and elephants in Uganda?
“The best place to see (Rothschild’s) giraffe would definitely be Murchison Falls National Park. Smaller populations have been reintroduced to Lake Mburo and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve; you can also see giraffes (and cheetah and a lot more) in Kidepo, in Uganda’s remote north east. Elephant can be easily seen in the popular Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks.”
How easy is it to see the Shoebill bird in Uganda?
“I once saw three Shoebills on the Delta boat ride in Murchison Falls National Park. Their size makes them easy to spot but they are shy and very few in number. Make sure you have an expert guide. If you absolutely have to see the Shoebill – and time or budget are an issue – why not pass by Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe? In addition to the Shoebill, you can see indigenous species such as elephant, lion, white rhino, chimpanzee and serval cats. Another location that is an easy drive from Entebbe is Mabamba Bay. Although the Shoebill can be viewed in other parts of Uganda, the places listed here are Uganda’s most popular Shoebill viewing destinations.”
What is the one experience or one place in Uganda that people should experience?
“Murchison Falls National Park in northern Uganda is the country’s most popular National Park (yet for all that, there are few tourists compared to many of Africa’s tourist areas). The park is named after the dramatic falls where the River Nile narrows from 1/2 a kilometre wide to just seven metres wide and plunges 43 metres. It’s a fantastic sight, seen from below via boat or from above: at the Top of the Falls, you can feel the power of the water in the rocks beneath your feet. I write about it in Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron, Murchison Falls. Murchison is an excellent safari destination, whether for game drives, safari boat rides, birdwatching or chimp tracking in Budongo. The Shoebill is one of Murchison’s 400+ bird species.”
Watch the full recording of the Wanderlust reader event: go wild in Uganda
What did Wanderlust readers have to say about the Go Wild in Uganda webinar event?
Thanks all. Now looking at a trip.
Thanks very much. It’s been a great evening. Great words from great people. Thanks very much to Charlotte and your friends, good job.
Thank you for a wonderful evening. It reminds us of the great time we had in Uganda (and that was without seeing the gorillas as we felt we weren’t fit enough for the trek). It also made us want to go again.
Thank you for a fascinating insight into Uganda. I really enjoyed the event and would love to visit there!
1600km across Uganda on a village bike, but why?
Uganda cycling trail. Interview with Alexander Bongers
Cycling and mountain biking have taken off in Uganda over the last few years – indeed the Uganda Cycling Trail gets a mention in CNN Travel’s Where to travel in 2023: The best destinations to visit! During lockdown, there was a worldwide surge in bike riding too. There is no doubt about it, Uganda is a superb place to cycle! The great weather and endless, marvellous scenery make for a stunning combination.
Alexander ‘Lex’ Bongers is one of Uganda’s passionate Dutch expat cyclists. I was amazed when he told me he was planning to cycle from one corner of the country to another with his colleague Lawrence Kakande. It’s pretty nuts to hear they did this on a local bicycle without gears! Read their story below and keep following Diary of a Muzungu for more brilliant cycling stories.
Diary of a Muzungu: Lex, cycling from Kisoro to Kidepo sure sounds like a big adventure! But it must also have been physically challenging. How is your body feeling now?
Not that bad actually, which surprises me as well! Lawrence hurt his knee on one of the last days, but personally I feel fitter than ever!
Diary of a Muzungu: You are and your friend Lawrence are probably the first people to ever ride this journey, certainly on a village bicycle. How did you ever come up with this crazy plan?
I am the coordinator of Adventure Tourism Uganda, wherein we aim to further develop the adventure tourism sector in Uganda. If there is one kind of tourism that has a lot of untapped potential throughout the country (and has a lot of social, economic and environmental benefits) it’s adventure tourism.
Thies Timmermans of Red Dirt Uganda has developed the Uganda Cycling Trail, a cycling route that links the extreme southwest of the country to Uganda’s extreme northeast. The idea is that these routes can be used by any cyclist. Testing this route on a village bicycle started off as a joke to be honest: we wondered whether it was actually possible to complete it on a village bicycle, so that you don’t need a fancy bicycle with a hundred gears. To prepare for our trip, we simply bought two steel roadmaster bicycles (the ones you see throughout the countryside). These bicycles have no gears, no suspension and are pretty heavy. They even have a sticker on them that reads “extra heavy.” Despite all that, they ride quite nicely.
Diary of a Muzungu: The fact that I am now able to talk to you, with you having a bright smile on your face, shows that it was possible… You guys made it!
Exactly! I am quite proud that we were able to finish the journey of about 1,600 km in 24 days (with an additional 5 days of rest mid-way). The only motorized vehicle we used between Kisoro and Kidepo was the ferry to the Ssese Islands as well as a stretch between Moroto and Kotido where cycling was currently not advised. But we entered Kenya to compensate for that!
Diary of a Muzungu: What about Uganda’s mountains? Were you able to cycle up Mt Elgon or the Kigezi hills without gears?
Not in the slightest. I don’t think anybody would. But the thing is, you become very humble: you know your limits and just walk. On a previous occasion, I cycled up to Sipi on Mt. Elgon on a mountain bike, and it was quite tough. But on this trip, Lawrence and I just walked and it wasn’t too difficult. Sometimes however, I felt like a Nepalese sherpa, with my bicycle a yak carrying my bags. There was something oddly satisfying about it.
Diary of a Muzungu: So are you saying your marathon trip wasn’t difficult at all?
Oh no, don’t get me wrong, sometimes it was challenging, but generally it was doable!
The last six days were part of the Tour of Karamoja, organized by Kara-Tunga Tours. It was exactly the type of epic final we hoped for.
The longest day comprised a 133 km journey from Lake Turkwel in Kenya to Moroto in Uganda. At only halfway through that day, my bum was causing me so much pain that I felt we would have to amputate the whole of my lower body. To add further misery, we cycled through a whole day of thunderstorms and pouring rain between Kaabong and Kidepo. I even fell into a big pool of muddy water. In an attempt to keep my phone dry, I had wrapped it in a plastic cavera bag. Sadly, my “phone-in-cavera” died in that muddy pool. But when we finally reached Nakaba gate in Kidepo Valley National Park, the sky cleared and we had a incredible ride through Kidepo; everyone who visits Kidepo says it’s Uganda’s most beautiful park.
Diary of a Muzungu: Any other highlights of your trip?
Lake Mutanda and Lake Bunyonyi in southwestern Uganda are of course very beautiful, and their shores are great for cycling and so is the far side of Murchison Bay, just opposite Gaba in Kampala.
Mt Elgon was fantastic as well, particularly a tricky downhill section just beyond Kapchorwa.
A personal highlight was to cycle to Malaba, at the Kenyan border. I lived there for half a year in 2014 and I hadn’t told anyone I would pass by on a village bike. The fact that I could tell my friends that no, I wasn’t cycling from nearby Tororo but from Kisoro, several hundred kilometres away, was something I spent weeks looking forward to! My old friends absolutely loved my story (but also had difficulties believing it!) But still, none of these highlights could compete with the sheer adventure and beauty of Karamoja.
Diary of a Muzungu: Did you have a lot of punctures along the way?
No, not at all! The only real modification we made to the bicycle was to make it tubeless. To do this, we removed the tube and replaced it with sealant. This reduced the chances of punctures. Actually, I don’t know how to explain it well, as I do not know anything at all about bike mechanics: I just know how to ride them. I really, really owe everything to Lawrence as without him I would probably still be in Kisoro, trying to figure out how to secure my bag to the bicycle!
Diary of a Muzungu: What are you going to do now? Are you planning to do something similar again soon?
I am not sure yet. I am thinking of cycling to West Nile next year, or participating in the Kyaninga Ride the Rift Race on this very bike, outcompeting all the gravel bikes. (I might also just grow fat and start living on past glories, like those retired football players). Time will tell. But I will definitely keep on spreading the gospel of the Uganda Cycling Trail and promoting cycling in Uganda generally, as it is simply fantastic!
Diary of a Muzungu: And what about your bike?
For now, the bike will get a break. He deserves it…
Advice to would-be Ugandan travel writers – a competition!
Uganda’s Travel Writing Competition 2022 [now closed]
Writing has opened many doors for me.
Get writing between now and the end of July and you have a chance to win one of these prizes:
- 1 million Uganda shillings (always good)
- An all-expenses-paid trip to “somewhere in Uganda” (nice!)
- Mentoring (arguably the best prize of all, if you’re serious about a writing career)
The second annual Travel Writing Competition is the initiative of Irene Allen Namisango and the team at Uganda Uncovered. The muzungu will be one of the judges, alongside Julius Luwemba (journalist, writer and photographer) and Dr Jim Ayorekire (Senior Lecturer and Researcher, Makerere University).
Here are some of the things I have learned about being a travel writer.
How did I start writing Diary of a Muzungu? And why?
I started Diary of Muzungu in 2008 as I was preparing to quit my 9-to-5 job in London. This blog records the life-changing experience of saying goodbye to the corporate life to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Back then, Diary of a Muzungu was simply a personal diary (adjusting to power cuts, Luganda lessons and shopping in Namuwongo market!)
The discipline of daily writing allowed me to reflect on my radically new life. (You don’t have to publish everything of course.) Journaling – or old-fashioned scribbling in a diary – can be therapeutic as well as a chance to develop your own style. Why do I blog? 10 surprisingly for lessons from a self-confessed blogoholic. I look back on my early blogs and can see that regular blogging has improved my writing. My sentences are better structured. I have found my voice.
Writing was already a big part of my life before Uganda. I wrote proposals and reports for a living; the content could be dull, but it was excellent training. (When I felt creative, I would write for the staff newsletter). Fast forward and – hello world – I am a judge in a travel writing competition, a trainer and mentor.
Tips for being a successful travel writer
You have to put in the hours, consistently. Here is a behind-the-scenes view of a typical work trip Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
If you want to be a good travel writer, the writing is far more important than the travelling. Travel can be costly – and you are unlikely to get any trips funded until you have a strong portfolio – so don’t ignore what’s on your doorstep. Here are my top tips for Ugandans who want to travel.
What are the job opportunities for travel writers in Uganda?
As tourism develops in Uganda, companies are looking for talented writers to help them with their marketing. We need new ideas and perspectives but most of all, we need original, quality work. I get fed up with seeing my content posted on other people’s sites (without so much as a courtesy tag). Come on Uganda – try harder!
Unfortunately, Uganda’s copy and paste culture undermines quality output. It also weakens the destination brand if we’re all just rehashing the same content. When I say that we need original content, I mean that each story should be written from scratch. In addition, we need to look for new topics and alternative ways to structure our communications. Don’t just copy somebody else’s ideas. Do not start with “I got up in the morning and I had breakfast.” It’s boring. Find your voice. You might not get it right first time. Practice. Read.
A note for tourism businesses looking for travel content
Employers need to understand that quality writing is a resource-intensive task. It takes time to research a subject, check the facts, write the narrative, edit, review, edit again and proofread. A decent blog post or magazine article involves many revisions. (At some point, I will put an article to one side so that I can go back to it later with fresh eyes). Your travel content could be someone’s first impression of Uganda. It must read well and all the facts must be verified.
What is the theme of this year’s Travel Writing competition?
“My 100% recommendable destination in Uganda.”
Articles should be 800-1000 words about the writer’s recommended destination. According to Irene, the aim of the story is “to keep a reader engrossed and desire to visit that particular place.” Stories should be “anecdotes from personal travel experiences from road trips to camping experiences, weekend getaways to long safaris.”
At the June 21 launch at the Uganda Museum, Basil Ajer, the Director of Tourism at the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, urged “Please contestants make use of this [writing] opportunity… write and make the readers accept that Uganda is the Pearl of Africa.”
Daniel Irunga pledged total support of the initiative on behalf of the Uganda Tourism Board.
Richard Kawere, head of the Uganda Tourism Association, the industry’s apex body also endorsed the event. He has been very supportive of the initiative from its inception. “Content writing is one of the biggest gaps in the tourism industry in Uganda.”
Eric Ntalo, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre Public Relations Manager, said “It is important for Ugandans to be involved in promoting conservation and tourism. It is one sustainable way to benefit from all the endowments the country has.”
How to enter the Travel Writing Competition 2022
- The competition is open to Ugandans of 18–35 years.
- The closing date is 11:59 PM July 31, 2022.
- Submit your story as a PDF – with pictures.
- There are no fees to enter the competition.
- Articles should be between 800–1000 words.
- The organisers state that “Winners will be invited to take part in a 3-month training with the Uncovered Youth Writers Hub to further hone their writing skills. These trainings will be facilitated by award-winning travel writers and authors. Winning articles will be featured on our websites and social media platforms. In addition to the prizes, free trips and visibility, shortlisted travel writers stand a chance at employment and travel writing gigs with reputable travel agencies on the hunt for writers.”
One final word of writing advice from Diary of Muzungu
Start writing now. Don’t wait until the last minute. Start jotting some ideas down.
Multi-millionaire author Stephen King advises Write with the door closed, rewrite with the door open (meaning don’t worry about your ugly grammar or what anyone else thinks. Just dump those ideas on the page then come back to them later).
Good luck everyone! I look forward to reading your entries – and featuring a few of the winning travel stories on Diary of a Muzungu 🙂
Rwanda Uganda land border reopens after 3 years [UPDATED]
Diary of a Muzungu has crossed from Uganda into Rwanda by road.
UPDATE. May 14th 2022. Hooray! I have crossed the Katuna / Gatuna border; it was very easy.
People entering Rwanda may still be subject to random COVID-19 testing by the Ministry of Health upon entry. However, I didn’t even have to show my vaccination certificates or wear a mask either. Very few people were wearing masks at Gatuna. You don’t have contact tracing if you cross by land borders (no need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form).
Key info: anyone traveling through Kigali International Airport must have a negative PCR test result 72 hours before travelling (no change). This applies even if you are in transit. You also need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form to land in Rwanda. All departing Rwandans must be vaccinated.
Curfew is well and truly lifted. Citizens and Rwandan citizens must be fully vaccinated to access public places (including public transport, but are they checking?) You don’t need to wear a mask in public anymore.
On Monday 30th of January 2022, Rwanda reopened the land border with Uganda at Gatuna / Katuna after a 3-year closure. Other Rwanda land borders reopened on March 7th. I’ve missed my cross-border bus journeys! However, very few people have travelled between Uganda and Rwanda yet this year. Initially it appeared that the Gatuna border only reopened for trade and for nationals of the two countries. The video “advises against non-essential travel.” Unfortunately, tourism must fall into that category. Rwanda Uganda border reopens after three years.
UPDATE: March 5th I met an American passport-holder who travelled by bus from Kigali to Gatuna. She was one of only five people who crossed. She took the bus from Kigali, crossed by foot and then caught a private hire taxi to Kabale.
In recent years it’s been common for international tourists to travel to Uganda and Rwanda on one safari itinerary. During the last three years, few people have been able to do this, unless they have flown into Entebbe (Uganda) and Kigali (Rwanda) International Airports (lockdown measures not withstanding!) Many Ugandans and Rwandans have family both sides of the border.
I am monitoring the situation and updating this blog regularly.
#ExploreUganda #VisitRwanda
Where are you celebrating Easter? Uganda resident specials!
Are you looking for things to do in Kampala and places to stay in Uganda this Easter?
Easter 2022 will be celebrated between 14th and 18th April, come rain come shine! It’s incredibly hot as I write this, so it’s hard to imagine rain! However, rains are certainly due…
Here are a few of Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on how to spend the Easter holidays. Am I missing somewhere? (I know I am! Feel free to contact the Muzungu with suggestions or recommendations).
The Easter holiday is a great time to leave Kampala for a few days. Uganda has countless destinations where you can spend the long weekend. Their numbers are mushrooming as you read!
Some hotels and lodges quote in Uganda shillings, others in dollars. I don’t usually quote prices (they date so quickly) so you should always check terms and conditions before making your booking (and do mention a certain ka blog won’t you 😎). Any prices quoted here are for Ugandans and expats / Ugandan residents. (International tourists generally pay higher prices so are not covered in this blog post).
To view images full size, just click on each one. For lodge descriptions and contact details, scroll down…
NOTE: lodge suggestions are grouped by (approximate) location.
Destination Safari! The bush is calling…
To many expats in Uganda, mention the magical words “public holiday” and the first thing they will want to do is disappear on Safari. You simply can’t beat reconnecting with nature (ideally with post-game drive gin and tonic of course!)
Safari destinations, gorillas and volcanoes …
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks
If you’ve ever thought of tracking the gorillas, Easter could be a good time as you need at least two nights in Bwindi or Mgahinga. Since there are fewer international tourists than normal, you should find it easier to get a last-minute gorilla permit. (At the time of writing, permits are still available for Easter 2022, particularly in Ruhija in Bwindi’s southern sector).
Dear would-be gorilla tracker: COVID-19 SOPs require that you wear a mask when you are in the great ape national parks and there must be a minimum of 10 metres distance between you and the animals (formerly it was 7 metres).
Chameleon Hill
Book three nights at the gloriously colourful Chameleon Hill during April 2022 and you have a choice of offers: either pay 3 nights and stay 4 nights; alternatively, pay for 3+ nights and receive a complimentary massage plus a boat excursion. Resident rates are $125 / person sharing in a double/ twin chalet and $175 single occupancy, both on full board basis. Chameleon Hill
+256 (0) 772 72 1818 welcome@chameleonhill.com
Clouds Mt. Gorilla Lodge, Nkuringo, southern Bwindi
For a rate of $230 / person / night sharing, enjoy full board accommodation at Cloud’s, one of Uganda’s top lodges. Get a 10% discount if you stay for Easter weekend. This offer applies to a minimum two-night stay. Tucked in the south-western corner of Bwindi, walk to a vantage point to admire the peaks of some of the Virunga volcanoes and peek into Rwanda and the DRC.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda
Look what Gorilla Highlands dreamed up just for you:
Spend your Easter weekend with a family hike on Lake Bunyonyi, culminating in an Easter egg hunt on Habukomi Island. You can choose between the 3-day Mother of All Treks programme, 2-day Mama Bena’s Bonus or 1-day Islands of Miracles. Each trek combines dugout canoeing and hiking with the Easter Sunday island picnic and egg fun as a complimentary bonus. Don’t feel like walking? Gorilla Highlands can also take you to Habukomi by motorboat!
I have worked with the Gorilla Highlands team on many occasions. They offer awesome, authentic experiences that directly benefit the local community.
Jump in Lake Mutanda [like the girls in the photo] for the best view of the volcanic peaks of Mt Sabinyo and Mt Muhabura, two of the Virunga volcanoes
Gahiza Island Retreat offers a number of room options for Ugandan residents. Bed and breakfast is 150k ugx / double room / night, for example. For Easter 2022, book two nights and take a three-hour boat tour (worth 150k ugx) on Lake Mutanda for free or stay a third night for free!
0775235579 reservationgahizaisland@gmail.com
Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Buhoma Lodge, one of Bwindi’s best, long established high end lodges and pay $155/person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. This is a steal! This Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022.
$5 per person per night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation. I love their work!
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Kibale Forest National Park and Fort Portal
The crater lakes have been enticing visitors to Fort Portal – Uganda’s first “tourism city” – for decades. Popular expat lodges include Ndali Lodge, Kyaninga Lodge, Isunga Lodge, and Papaya Lake Lodge. Each one overlooks its own lake.
If you plan to track chimps, COVID-19 SOPs state that you wear a mask and you must keep a minimum of 10 metres between you and the great apes (formerly it was 7 metres).
To the south of Kibale National Park lies Turaco Treetops “a true jungle experience where comfort meets nature!” On a clear day, you can see the Rwenzori Mountains. Families love the outdoor playground, swimming pool and kids’ playroom. Children and adults alike enjoy the guided nature walk and mountain bike tour (new ‘Giant’ bikes for adults and children are available to hire from the lodge).
Luxury cottages are in secluded locations; standard rooms have (optional) sharing balconies, perfect for families or groups of friends. It’s quite likely Turaco Treetops will be fully booked by the time you read this article but bookmark it for your next weekend away!
+256 (0) 75 715 2323
The Sunbird Hill Experience, Kibale Forest edge (3km from Kanyanchu)
One of the highlights of the Sunbird Hill Experience is the guided walk with Silver, the reformed poacher and ranger, a veritable walking encyclopedia of forest knowledge. Learn about Kibale’s birds and 100s butterfly and moth species at Butterfly Village. Sunbird Hill is set up for those who are passionate about nature. If you’re looking for an immersive experience, look no further. The ridiculously low $30 fee includes expert site guides, half day access to the Birders’ Lounge and refreshments. There is nowhere else like it in Uganda!
Visits to this private site are strictly by prior appointment. WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 julia@sunbirdhill.com
All Sunbird Hill activities support In the Shadow of Chimpanzees NGO.
Rweteera Safari Park
Don’t miss Rweteera Safari Park’s Easter offer: free canoeing experience and a guided night walk around the shores of Lake Nyabikere in search of nocturnal animals. Keep your eyes peeled for bushbaby, nightjar and crickets. You’ll know if you hear the chilling shriek of the tree hyrax!
The Easter offer is exclusively for overnight guests. Rates are single $50, double $70 (bed and breakfast). Rweteera Safari Park is within walking distance of Kibale National Park.
WhatsApp 0776862153 rweteerasafaripark@gmail.com
Beyond Fort Portal
Between Fort Portal and Kasese is the Italian-themed Lodge Bella Vista – and pizzeria – that was built by a retired Italian diplomat. The lodge and pool overlook Nyamiteza crater lake. Walk, bike and explore Toro‘s many community tourism attractions.
This Easter, book two nights at Lodge Bella Vista and get 50% off your 3rd night, subject to availability.
+256 773204264 / 759214947 booking@lodgebellavista.com
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Ishasha Wilderness Camp sits on the bend of a river in its own forest. This idyllic spot is regularly visited by wildlife and is the first place I spotted the eye-catching Narina Trogon.
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Ishasha Wilderness Camp and pay $155 / person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022. $5 per person night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation.
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Little Elephant Camp
If you love camping – but prefer glamping – head to Little Elephant Camp, rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor. Here families, couples or small groups have their own private, secure camp with a view of Queen Elizabeth National Park just outside the park’s northern boundary.
Facilities include en-suite hot water outdoor “stargazer” shower, private campfire, well-equipped mess/kitchen with refrigeration and purified water, Wi-Fi, and much more. Shop and cook for yourself or pre-order marinated barbecue, fresh ingredients and everything you need for your safari, all delivered ready for your arrival. Easter 2022 promotion price at Little Elephant Camp is $80 per person (accommodation only) based on 2 people sharing. Minimum 2-night stay.
+256 759 537220 / 787 722355 info@littleelephantcamp.com
The Observatory
One of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite places! Enjoy uninterrupted views of Lake Edward, Lake George, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Nyamusingire from The Observatory, a self-catering holiday home overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park. Two private cottages have splash pool, sauna, hot tub and barbecue area available for your exclusive hire at a very affordable rate. Click here to see gorgeous photos of The Observatory in the Travel Directory.
Kidepo Valley National Park
Did you know that everyone who goes to Kidepo rates it as their favourite National Park? The upmarket Apoka Lodge is the perfect base for a safari in Kidepo Valley. Their Easter 2022 rate is $180 / person / night sharing based on a minimum two-night stay. The rate includes full board meals and one game drive per day. Terms and conditions apply.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Mburo National Park
Popular lodges include Rwakobo Rock (a personal favourite), Hyena Hill Lodge (I’ve heard great things), Leopard Rest Camp and the one and only Mihingo Lodge.
Lake Albert
Kikonko Eco Lodge is your first address on Lake Albert. Scenic views and a serene atmosphere characterise this small boutique lodge with swimming pool. Here guests can enjoy excellent service from friendly staff and get a peaceful night’s sleep in spacious self-contained cottages with private verandas.
Easter Special: book 2 nights in a double room on a bed & breakfast basis for $120 per night and get a third night and breakfast for free. A family room sleeps up to 4 people (2 adults and 2 children). The Easter rate is $170 for bed and breakfast. An Easter egg hunt is included in the price. Other lodge activities cost between $5 to $20.
+256 784 432 508 info@kikonko.com
Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve and Semliki National Park
It’s confusing to have two very different protected areas with almost identical names! Which is which? Semliki Wildlife Reserve is a savannah park on the southern edge of Lake Albert; Semliki National Park comprises a forest and the famous Sempaya Springs.
Shhh, don’t tell everyone but Semliki Safari Lodge in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve is where you should go when you want to escape the world!
Upgraded and refurbished during the pandemic in classic safari style, Semliki Safari Lodge offers full board and one game drive per day for $160 / person / night over the Easter period. This is based on two sharing for a minimum of two nights. Booking is dependent on availability and is only extended to Ugandan citizens and Ugandan residents with proof of residence. This lodge is ab fab! Read my blog Uniquely Semliki!
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Closer to Kampala…
If you don’t have many days off, here are a few ideas for places to visit closer to the capital.
Expat favourite Nkima Forest Lodge has a great swimming pool and is ideal for mountain biking, canoeing, butterfly catching for the children and Shoebill-watching at Mabamba. Nkima Forest Lodge, Mabamba, is sister to Lake Mburo’s excellent Rwakobo Rock.
Call +256 701 865056 / +256 787 429377
Ssesse Islands
Fancy an island adventure?
Banda Island is an-ever popular, well-run location for an Easter weekend.
Rainforest Lodge in Mabira Forest
Mabira Forest is midway between Kampala and Jinja. This popular lodge has a swimming pool and sauna, badminton, volleyball, dartboard and board games. For 1.6 million Uganda shillings, a couple can stay two nights. This Easter 2020 rate is for full board and includes one complimentary bottle of wine. Cheers!
Call +256 782 574271 / +256 701 563437 reservations@geolodgesafrica.com
Jinja
Adventure tourism has taken off in Uganda with most activities based in and around Jinja, the Source of the Nile. Jinja is a favourite getaway for Kampala residents; it has something for everyone. The two new roads – Gayaza to the north and south of Jinja Road – make weekend trips in Jinja easier than ever.
Bungee Bar – and the bungee jump of course!
Uganda’s first – and currently the only – bungee jump overlooks the River Nile. No stomach for the jump? No problem. Take the safer (saner?!) option and watch the bungee from the comfort of the Bungee Bar, a fabulous spot for a sundowner. Bungee Restaurant has an extensive food and cocktail menu and is worth the ride just for the sunset views. to book a bungee jump or to reserve a table at the restaurant.
Call Rob on +256 750 707825 – and tell him the Muzungu sent you 😎
Quad biking and crazy golf for all the family at Bujagali, Jinja
Read my quad biking blog “Eat my dust!”
Also managed by Rob +256 750 707825.
Pony Rides with Nile Horseback Safaris
If you fancy trying something new this Easter holiday, how about a sunset horse ride? The $60 sunset ride – for experienced adult riders – includes beer, local spirits, juice and sodas.
Did you know Nile Horseback Safaris offer 30-minute pony rides for kids aged between 4 and 12 years? Pony rides are between 9 and 11am and 2.30 and 4pm daily (subject to availability of ponies). Children – and adults – can do longer rides if they are experienced horse riders.
Pre-booking is essential for all rides.
+256 774 101196 nilehorsebacksafaris@gmail.com
Things to do at Easter in Kampala
moonbean chocolate, based together with Dancing Cup in Bugolobi, Kampala, are offering children ‘Build-a-Bunny’ and ‘Choc-Chick’ making workshops from early April 2022, and an Easter egg-hunt and other holiday activities over the Easter weekend. Follow @moonbeanchocolate on social media for the latest details.
+256 701 805182 m.me/moonbeanchocolate
An Easter thought from Diary of a Muzungu in support of Uganda’s tourism industry
The pandemic has devastated travel in particular and there’s been a big shake-up in tourism businesses up and down the country. It’s sad when you hear negative feedback about a favourite lodge that was on top of its game two years ago, but the reality is it will take time before things get back to normal. Many businesses are still in recovery mode.
You and I might be traveling again but let’s not push too hard for discounts. Remember the more we spend, the more we’re investing in the future of tourism in Uganda.
Whatever you do this Easter, get out there and #ExploreUganda! Looking for something different? Contact the Muzungu – I have 100s more ideas. HAPPY EASTER 😎
Packing up to permanently leave Uganda? You may want to read this.
Don’t panic – the Muzungu has no plans to leave Uganda! – but the reality of expat life is that many people move on after a few years’ living in the Pearl of Africa.
In this week’s guest post, Flavia and Mark share some insights with Diary of a Muzungu readers:
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to leave Uganda permanently, after having lived in the country for a long, or maybe, a short time?
Or are you planning ahead of your uproot from your home country to Uganda? If so, this read was curated for you too. In a few paragraphs – and presumably delicate scrolls – you will get up to speed with the legal and financial aspects involved in leaving Uganda permanently.
In a similar situation as yours, many expats leave Uganda to look for a new adventure, employment in a foreign country, or to simply return to their country of origin. However, many people wonder “What does it take to start the process of leaving the country indefinitely?”
‘Do I just pack my bags and head for the airport? Or are there procedures to be followed?’
Permanently leaving Uganda, whether you’re an expat, employee, or businessperson, must be easy, wouldn’t you think? Here are some insights on a few things you may need to work through before packing up.
If you stick around long enough, you will learn a lot; how to deal with your departure process when it comes to work or business engagements, tax implications and even, how to handle your landlord or effectively dispose of property.
Planning on how to leave your current employer on good terms
All contracts of employment in Uganda are governed by the country’s Employment laws.
So, what exactly does this mean?
If you are an independent contractor, you will be required to complete any pending engagements to the satisfaction of your clients before leaving the country.
However if you are engaged under an employment contract, you will be required to formally end your employment before your departure. This can be triggered through resignation with prior notice. There are no fast and hard rules about resigning but it’s important to do it professionally and graciously. At this point, you might ask:
‘What happens to the money I have saved up with the National Social Security Fund(“NSSF”)?’
As a member of NSSF, your employer is required to remit 15% of your monthly income as savings. The 15% is a shared responsibility between you and your employer, where 5% is deducted from your monthly salary while your employer remits 10% of your gross monthly salary to NSSF. Once you decide to permanently leave Uganda, you are entitled to the payment of your remitted savings for at least four financial years. The claim for your savings is made online on the NSSF portal, or your nearest NSSF office. To support your claim, the following documents are necessary:
- Current passport size photo.
- Copy of your passport with a valid work permit.
- Proof of your bank details. The bank account must be held in the country you are heading to.
- Resignation letter, termination letter, or any document showing severance of the prior employment relationship in Uganda.
- Evidence of permanent residence status or citizenship in the Country you are moving to.
- Evidence of exit from Uganda e.g. exit stamp from Uganda and/or entry stamp to destination country.
- Notarized Passport and/or permanent residence card (if claiming online).
Expats running businesses
“Alright, but I run a business in Uganda, and before I leave I would like to dissolve my partnership, transfer stakes, or dissolve my company?” This shouldn’t be strenuous, right?
Getting out of a partnership
For starters, a partnership venture may not take so much time to dissolve since you may have a partnership deed that indicates the terms of dissolution. However, in case you have no such clause in the deed, the partnership can be dissolved by an agreement between you and your partner(s).
Leaving a company as a shareholder
Upon reaching the decision to leave Uganda permanently, and you desire to sell your shareholding, in order to have a smooth process you should consider doing the following;
- Engaging with other shareholders in order to reach a consensus on any outstanding obligations and also to set up a road map for your exit from the company.
- Conducting a financial audit.
- Valuing your shareholding to arrive at a fair market value at which you can sell your shares.
At this point, a common question comes to mind:
“What if I fail to find buyers for my shareholding?”
An alternative to selling your stake would be to dissolve the company altogether. However, we hate to say this but, the process of shareholders dissolving a company, is slightly longer than that of transferring shares or that of dissolving a partnership.
Engaging the Taxman
When you are no longer generating income in Uganda owing to your pending departure, you may consider applying to the Commissioner General of the Uganda Revenue Authority (URA) to deregister your Tax Identification Number (TIN).
Dealing with a Landlord
Just like any other relationship, landlord – tenant relationships are different for everyone. However, the relationship between the two is usually governed by the Tenancy Agreement. Termination of this contract, to some, may mean the beginning of exit obligations, for example, restoring the premises.
Disposal of assets
When most of the processes are over and you are drawing closer to the departure day, if you still possess property, you are at liberty to dispose of them before leaving Uganda.
Now let’s talk about safety for you and your loved ones
COVID-19
At the time of writing, it is mandatory to present a negative COVID-19 test taken within 72 hours of your departure from Uganda. Tests can be done from any accredited laboratory. Before you travel read Latest COVID-19 health measures at Entebbe International Airport, which is updated regularly.
Travelling with Pets
If you plan on travelling with your pet, or “fur buddy,” here is a roundup of what you may need to do to avoid inconveniences.
The first thing to do is contact the airline you are planning to fly with for full information.
Depending on the country you are travelling to, you may need a microchip for the pet, rabies vaccination, and a health certificate. Additional blood tests may also be required.
Finally you will need to register your pet with the airline, make payment and ensure that they are placed in a cage or kennel for the duration of the flight.
Lastly, the process of leaving Uganda can be quite unsettling especially if you are a business owner or have spent a considerable amount of time in the country.
However, with an exit process plan, coupled with professional advice, you can be able to seamlessly overcome the numerous obstacles that may lie ahead, and be packing within no time.
The guest writers are Kampala-based multi-disciplinary lawyers who specialise in relocation services for expats. In case of any questions or need for clarifications regarding this guest post, please reach the writers directly on the following contacts:
Flavia Asiimwe, LLB (Hons) University of Kent (UK)
Tel: +256 773360315 Email: fasiimwe@origolaw.ug
Mark Kizza, CTA (ICPAU), LLB (Hons) Makerere University
Tel: +256773091830 Email: mkizza@origolaw.ug
Do you have a story you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.
How can tourism develop Uganda? Podcast interview
How can tourism help Uganda achieve a middle-class economy? ON Uganda podcast interview
Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know how much conservation, Uganda travel and digital marketing rock my boat so I was honoured when podcast host Aggie Patricia Turwomwe invited me to chat about these subjects and more. The interview gave me a chance to mention some of my favourite organisations: Conservation Through Public Health, Uganda Wildlife Authority and the brilliant free hospitality and tourism training app from the Ukarimu Academy. Oh yes, and my favourite new glitzy Kampala café, Cafesserie Arena Mall!
“Word-of-mouth has morphed into Digital Marketing” podcast interview with Charlotte Beauvoisin
ON Uganda Podcast – UG’s investment podcast – is dedicated 100% to demystify paradigms through its three segments; On Reports, On Sectors, and On Marketing with an aim to become a tool to help Ugandans achieve and thrive in a booming “MIDDLE-CLASS ECONOMY.” Listen along to understand what fuels the wheels of our economy!
Charlotte ‘Nagawa’ Beauvoisin is a writer and trainer that delivers agile and scalable experiences with digital across East Africa. Nagawa writes the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu and has contributed to the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, Lonely Planet, Fodor’s Travel, The Daily Telegraph and Horizon Guides.
In this 36 minute podcast interview, recorded in December 2021 in Kampala, Charlotte takes us through:
- The Uganda tourism landscape
- Her start in marketing
- Building capacity for Uganda Wildlife Authority game rangers
- Tourism marketing tools
- Conservation and environmental issues
- Policies that favour/ hinder the tourism sector in Uganda
- GOLD: How the tourism sector can help Uganda achieve a middle class economy.
PODCAST DISCLAIMER from ON Uganda. The views and opinions expressed in the episode are those of the guests. They do not represent or reflect the official position of the ON Uganda Podcast, so we do not take responsibility for any ideas expressed by guest during the Podcast. You are smart enough, take out what works for you.
Listen to this episode on Google Podcasts / Anchor / Apple
Do you enjoy listening to podcasts?
Do you like the English accent? 😆 I’d love to know which podcasts you follow – seriously.
21st century tech to rescue Uganda’s mountain gorillas
Join a mountain gorilla family and contribute to the conservation of this endangered species: launch of My Gorilla Family app and My Gorilla Family Festival, Kampala, Uganda.
A pioneering initiative to protect Uganda’s mountain gorilla population has officially been launched, leveraging technology to create sustainable sources of non-trekking revenues to fund conservation.
“Uganda is absolutely ready for an application and a festival like this. It is time for the world to come and see how much more Uganda has to offer.”
Lily Ajarova, Chief Executive Officer, Uganda Tourism Board
“UWA is mandated to ensure sustainable management of wildlife resources. We are proud to work with our partners to ensure this, but also to educate local communities and people from all over the world about the value of protecting these majestic animals, and keep them for future generations.”
Sam Mwandha, Executive Director, Uganda Wildlife Authority
“As a child, I went hunting in the forest; when the conservation areas were carved out, I grew into a poacher. I am now known as an advocate for conservation and continue to champion community awareness.”
Fidelis Kanyamunyu, reformed poacher, Honorary Wildlife Officer with Uganda Wildlife Authority and Co-Founder of Home of the Gorillas
Home of the Gorillas Initiative, in partnership with Uganda Wildlife Authority, seeks to commercialise activities that generate alternative ways of funding conservation. This is done by leveraging technology that enables the global community to engage with the gorillas remotely.
“It is important to note the investment opportunities presented by conservation.”
Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, a leading scientist and conservationist at the forefront of gorilla conservation efforts in East Africa, emphasised the importance of community inclusion
“In addition to the subscription-based application My Gorilla Family, the Home of the Gorillas initiative will launch the first conservation limited NFT collection linked to the ±200 habituated individual mountain gorillas in the wild.”
David Gonahasa, Co-Founder of Home of the Gorillas, further explained the importance of this initiative.
“We all need to be conservationists, regardless of our background or physical location. By leveraging technology, we are making more people aware of this natural capital we are blessed with, resulting in more mountain gorilla ambassadors globally.”
Terence Chambati, Co-Founder and Chief Operating Officer, Home of the Gorillas
Download My Gorilla Family on the Google PlayStore. iOS and web application versions will be available end of February 2022.
Follow @mygorillafamily on (X) Twitter.
Have you downloaded Uganda’s My Gorilla Family app yet? I’d love to know what you think of it!
The world’s BIGGEST rolex wins Guinness World Record!
“I made the world’s biggest rolex” – Raymond Kahuma is putting Uganda on the world map (in his words).
News does not get any more exciting than this!
Drumroll…
The biggest – world record-breaking – congratulations to Raymond Kahuma who has landed a Guinness World Record for Uganda by making the world’s biggest rolex! According to his certificate, the mammoth snack weighed in at a phenomenal 204.6 kg (or 451 pounds!)
Just how many eggs do you think were needed to make it?!
While others may strive to win medals at the Olympics or reward themselves with endless university degrees, Raymond has done something far more worthy: he has (in his words) “helped put Uganda on the world map” and boy is he entertaining us too!
Explore Uganda through your tastebuds!
For the uninitiated, a rolex is an omelette rolled in a chapati. (Rolled eggs, get it?) It’s a staple of students and party animals countrywide. (You can’t beat eating a fresh rolex at three in the morning on the way home from a nightclub, which we are now able to do again in Uganda after almost two years of bar closures!)
According to the rules set by Guinness World Records, the rolex would need to weigh at least 200 kg. With a single rolex weighing 100g, that equated to 200 rolex! However, that would be too easy: the final item had to be a scaled-up version of the actual food. (Until this record from Uganda, the world’s biggest rolex measured three metres in diameter and weighed 149 kg).
Kahuma’s first attempt at making a record-breaking rolex cost him $3000 and took a team of 15 people four weeks – to ultimately fail. On that first attempt, the chapati got burned before they had a chance to make the full rolex. Kahuma explains how he had given up on college and how making this humongous Rolex “had become my life’s work. Giving up was not an option.”
Watch Raymond Kahuma’s record-breaking feat “I made the world’s biggest rolex” made in Kampala.
The video is HILARIOUS (just forgive the occasional swearword…) Honestly, the world’s biggest rolex video is the best thing I have watched in a long time. I felt a little emotional by the end of it!
“Uganda’s Guinness World Record for the world’s biggest rolex is a testament to perseverance and dedication.”
Raymond Kahuma
Ingredients for a world record-breaking 200kg+ Ugandan rolex!
- 72 kg flour
- 90 kg vegetables
- 1200 eggs
- 40 kg water
- 40 kg cooking oil
- 14 hours and 36 seconds
- Four attempts
- 60 participants
Originally the go-to food for students, posh versions of Rolex now include chicken, bacon, cheese and a variety of ingredients. At Bujagali in Jinja, you can even order a sweet rolex filled with chocolate and fruit! Back on the streets – arguably still the best place to order your chapati – a rolex stall is one of the quickest and easiest way to set up a new business. You have to hand it to Ugandans for their entrepreneurial spirit!
The humble rolex is a staple on Diary of a Muzungu’s menu. 😋 It even has its own blog “The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness!”
Do you love eating rolex? Restaurant variety or roadside stall which is your favourite?
Pandemic people – my best of 2021
From #LockdownDiaries to gratitude! Diary of a Muzungu’s review of 2021
Wasn’t 2021 extraordinary? Isolation has given us all an opportunity to rethink many things – whether we wanted to or not 🤦♀️ – and I certainly ended the year in a more positive frame of mind. This would not have been possible without the support and inspiration of so many friends and colleagues. Pandemic People is dedicated to them.
The biggest shout-out goes to my family who I had not seen for nearly 3 years. When I finally made it back to the UK for my dad’s 80th birthday, I took every occasion to reconnect with family and childhood friends, reminisce, dip into the family photo archives and allow myself to be full-throttle nostalgic! Travel to Red List UK via Spain was a logistical nightmare but a useful exercise to share with would-be travellers.
I do not confine my gratitude to 2021. Many of the people I list below have been with me – virtually at least – since the start of the pandemic. I share my thanks to them individually here, in no particular order:
In 2021, Ugandan athlete Joshua Cheptegai won gold and silver medals at the Olympics in Tokyo. Ugandan social media was buzzing for days after his win and British sports commentator Rob Walker’s words went viral:
“And what unadulterated joy this win will have triggered back home in Uganda – one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries you could ever hope to visit!”
Rob Walker, sports commentator
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, home is a wooden house at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale Forest, my green sanctuary during the pandemic. I have endless stories about my incredible life here with Julia and Dillon. Grateful everyday is dedicated to them (and the wild creatures that share my house with me!)
When Internet failed me (and my mojo was at an all-time low) aviation expert and fellow travel blogger Prof Wolfgang Thome invited me to publish a series of #LockdownDiaries for his site ATC News (ATC stands for Aviation, Travel and Conservation). Although my morning forest walks frequently felt like the 1993 film Groundhog Day, lockdown gave me the chance to connect with nature on a deeper level.
Damn has this digital nomad missed traveling! 🤦♀️ Solomon Oleny and I both write for Ng’aali, Uganda Airlines magazine.
When I want to know what’s going on in Kampala, my friend and social barometer Arthur Mwenky Katabalwa is just a tweet or phone call away! (Newspapers can only be bought in Fort Portal, an hour’s drive from home).
Bradt Guides author Philip Briggs lives in Wilderness, South Africa, where they endured some of the toughest lockdown measures. His daily run around the cabbage patch in his garden inspired me to start running again. (Ironically, he was the first person I know to have had COVID-19).
Responsible tourism colleague Daniel Quintana was the first person I spoke to when we finally got broadband Internet (several painful months into lockdown). How different our lives were during the pandemic: he isolating in modern Miami, us in the forest!
With so much on hold, I’ve missed working with my web developer Sam Risbond. I know we’ll be back on track in 2022 😎
As the pandemic hit, Steve Dumba voiced his concern at how I would survive with tourism dead in the water. Dumba has helped me update Diary of a Muzungu and runs E-zone School of Computing in Kampala.
Another support team member I must thank is the ever-patient George Mukalazi of Laz Systems tel +256 702 926323. George is my go-to IT person
I was honoured when Miha Logar invited me to be one of the Gorilla Highlands Experts, a global team of volunteers who are passionate about developing and promoting responsible tourism in the Gorilla Highlands of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
The Gorilla Highlands Experts’ virtual picnics and group Zoom sessions reconnected me with coffee growers in Kisoro, expert chef Rama Ramadhan Sindayigaya in Rwanda, award-winning photographer Marcus Westberg in Sweden, Jon “The Voice” Lee in California and countless others all over the globe. I can’t tell you how much that connection has meant to me during lockdown. Gorilla Highlands’ latest endeavour is the SEE AFRICA BREATHE AFRICA podcast.
I was tickled pink when Andrew Roberts asked me to help with a spot of proofreading for his fantastic Uganda Safari book. Andy and I worked together at the Uganda Conservation Foundation. You may know Andy as the co-author of the Bradt Uganda guide.
I was over the moon when the journalist Susan Muumbi invited me to write an article for The East African. In 2018, we tracked Rwanda’s gorillas and attended Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony together. We swapped life stories as our safari vehicle wound its way up and down Rwanda’s thousand hills. Here’s Susan’s story about our big cat safari in Akagera National Park.
Daily connection with nature has kept me sane (well, almost!) A high point of 2021 was getting back into running. Kudos to Canada’s top fitness trainer 2020 Philip Ndugga for the virtual coaching.
What’s worse than being stuck in lockdown? Being in lockdown when you are a freelancer! Journalist friend Amy Fallon and I compared notes on our double dose of isolation. Best way for us both to get through it? Start running again!
The sea – specifically the Indian Ocean – was the number one thing I hankered after during lockdown and my first international trip was to the 5 star Mombasa Serena Resort, Kenya. The thought that I would see the ocean again made the first few months of 2021 bearable!
While tourism was closed in 2020, I watched how friends in the Kenyan coastal resort of Watamu came together to feed a community that was financially decimated by lockdown. They were some of the first people I had to see after lockdown. Kudos to Jane Spilsbury, Steve Trott, Mike Mwangombe of Watamu Marine Association, Mel and the team at Hemingways Watamu, Lynne Elson and Tushar (and many others) for keeping the community going. In December 2021, KTN News Kenya broadcast a report about the Watamu Marine Association’s work to protect the Indian Ocean’s wildlife and beaches. This circular economy project: creates jobs to collect plastic waste, upcycles old plastic to make cool products, cleans the ocean to protect wildlife and keeps beaches clean to welcome tourists!
One of the upsides of travelling on your own is having quality time to connect with new people. In Kilifi (north of Mombasa), rafiki Thomas Mbashu of Tripesa and I discussed Kilifi’s tourism attractions over fish, prawns and oysters at Nautilus Restaurant – a delectable treat after all those months in the village eating posho and beans!
A week at Distant Relatives renewed my desire to be a digital nomad… If you are looking for a cool place to hang out, party and enjoy superb live music and DJs, at extremely affordable prices, look no further than Distant Relatives Backpackers in Kilifi, midway between Mombasa and Watamu. Far more than just a backpacker hostel, DR is one of the most innovative, well-run places to stay on Kenya’s coast. Distant Relatives Backpackers Instagram page is 🔥!
While most of us tourism folk languished in the doldrums, Albert Ntambiko showed us how to turn a business around during the pandemic. What do you do if your café isn’t allowed sit-in customers? You reinvent yourself as a takeaway business! Coffee at Last is in Makindye, Kampala.
I have missed the lovely Moreen Mungu during the pandemic. Our trip with the Kasese Tourism Investment Forum was a highlight of my year. In Kasese, I was honoured to speak alongside David Gonahasa, the brains behind Tripesa and Home of the Gorillas Initiative that “seeks to increase global awareness of Mountain Gorillas by leveraging technology to generate non-trekking revenues towards gorilla conservation.”
I could listen to Ian Redmond for hours: he is a master at explaining complex ideas in non-techy language (for us non-scientists!) For example, did you know that the ‘ecosystem services’ offered by a single forest elephant are valued at 1.7 million USD? This recognises elephants’ value in carbon sequestration (preventing the release of carbon and thus reducing climate change). This staggering amount of money is in addition to elephants’ value to the tourism economy. Ian is co-founder of Rebalance Earth a social impact company that proposes using block chain technology to offset carbon emissions: win:wins for elephants, forests, local inhabitants near National Parks, the climate, EVERYONE!
In 2021, Ian was part of the team that launched Ecoflix “the first not-for-profit global streaming platform dedicated to saving animals and the planet.” Do check it out!
Every interaction with Dr Celestine Katongole is a learning experience. Celestine masterminded Uganda Tourism Board’s tourism recovery plan and the award-winning Entanda Tours (traditional hunting experience) near Mityana. His latest project is Work & Rise a company that “connects people who have jobs to those looking for the jobs.”
Sleeping in a tent up a mountain is not for the faint-hearted, especially when it’s your first time. I was intrigued to know why Jean Byamugisha CEO of the Uganda Hotel Owners Association, chose to swap her self-confessed ‘boujee’ lifestyle for walking boots and a tent. In Out of my element Jean shared her personal account of climbing Mount Elgon. I really felt her pain! (And her determination).
Beewol’s “A wet and wild escapade” is the funniest read this side of the River Nile
The CBI project to train tour operators in digital marketing involved Peter Fabricius and I writing a syllabus and developing training materials. Revisiting old content in the context of the pandemic brought some illuminating discussions and a new hybrid approach: in-person group discussions, live remote presentations from Peter’s home office in Cape Town and virtual breakout rooms on Zoom. Working with Peter is like having my own personal coach – I can’t think of a better way to get back to full-time work!
Finally – after so many years daydreaming – I made it to Karamoja, where Theo told me all about their plans for the Warrior Nomad Trail and the Tour of Karamoja Uganda’s ultimate wilderness bicycle tradition, taking place in April 2022. “Expect a physical and mental challenge, rich cultural encounters, dramatic scenery and Uganda’s finest wildlife.” The Warrior Nomad Trail takes you 6 completely unique days / 6 stages through Uganda’s final frontier on the extreme edges of the East African Rift. The final days are celebrated in the award-winning Kidepo Valley National Park.
I’ve loved being a small part of implementing the EyeOpenerWorks’ vision for tourism and hospitality. I look forward to working with Martijn, Lex, Laiqah and the team again soon.
It was a pleasure to spend two days with Sheila Kogo-Malinga at Kisubi Forest Cottages off Entebbe Road. Her company Lodge Solutions is a one-stop shop for everything you’ll need if you’re setting up a tourism business in Uganda.
In 2022 I’ll be travelling to Tanzania. Kudos to CEO Sirili Akko for the great work Tanzania Association of Tour Operators TATO are doing promoting Tanzania during the pandemic. Their approach has been radically different to Uganda’s but as long as visitors are travelling to Africa again, I’m happy!
In London, I attended World Travel Market. Africa had little representation but West Africa Tourism Association did the continent proud. Here Daniel of I Like Local introduced me to WATO’s delightful CEO Ola Wright.
Horizon Guides has grown to be a reputable travel brand. I’m thrilled that Matt Barker asked me to update the Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, a project we first worked on together in 2016.
Liz Warner is one of the UK founders of Different Kind, and former CEO of Comic Relief, a new online marketplace for “goods that do good.” I got a buzz from recommending a few ideas from Uganda and hope to recommend more as DK evolves.
In this short clip, Vanessa Nakate talks about the changing weather patterns in Uganda. “Historically Africa is responsible for just 3% of global emissions yet is suffering some of its worst impacts.”
Closer to home, I am a fan of the work of AFRIYEA and their practical clean-up Fort Portal / River Mpanga campaigns. Let’s support young environmentalists in 2022!
Trends indicate that post-pandemic, more of us will choose to travel sustainably. Silver linings! Kudos to Judy Kepher-Gona and the team at Sustainable Tourism and Travel Agenda in Kenya who are at the forefront of training young people and tourism businesses on how to operate sustainably. I hope to attend their annual summit in 2022. #STAS22
We were delighted when our former colleague Lilly Ajarova became CEO of UTB, but can you imagine being head of the Uganda Tourism Board during the pandemic? 🤦♀️Not to be deterred, in 2020, Lilly led a team of climbers to the top of Mount Margherita, the highest point in Uganda. Where she leads, others follow. Domestic tourism has come of age during the pandemic!
“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.
VSO was a passport to an incredible life. I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”
Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine
Voluntary Service Overseas was my ticket to a new life in Uganda (and the first three years of Diary of a Muzungu recount those life-changing experiences). In 2021, I was delighted to help promote VSO’s work in an interview with Woman and Home, the U.K.’s bestselling women’s magazine.
And what does 2022 hold for Diary of a Muzungu?
I don’t know how I would have survived the last two years without everyone featured here. In small ways and big, they’ve helped and inspired me. I’m still processing so much of the last two years. I felt hopelessly lost at certain points but now I’m just letting things settle. Conservation, digital marketing training, travel travel travel and AFRICA will continue to be central to Diary of a Muzungu but quite how that all pans out, I’m still figuring out!
Mwebale nyo – thank you – to everyone who has attended my training workshops and to the tourism businesses that advertise in the Travel Directory. We look forward to brighter times 🙏😎
My last thank you is to everyone who reads Diary of Muzungu! Wishing us all the very best for a successful and happy new year! Keep in touch – sign up to my monthly newsletter.
Uganda travel advice I ignored
Hunting for practical Uganda travel advice? Do as I say (not as I do)
We all make mistakes, here are some of mine. This is a list of some of the advice I was given – and ignored. No doubt this list will grow as quickly as the list of good travel advice does!
Note to mum: you don’t need to read this. Switch off the computer and go and make yourself a nice cup of tea…
“DON’T swim in Lake Victoria or you’ll catch Bilharzia” they warned
There are hundreds of lakes scattered across Uganda. The good news is you can swim in most of them.
Adventurous or reckless – who’s to judge? – I’ve swum in Lake Victoria and the Nile many times.
If you’re planning to go white water rafting, kayaking or canoeing in Jinja, don’t worry, the river is mostly fast flowing so there’s little chance that you will catch Bilharzia (although it’s not impossible). Bilharzia can be horrible.
Read the Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on How to avoid Bilharzia.
“DON’T swim in the River Nile” I was told
Where not to swim in the River Nile advises you on how to avoid other dangers … some of them four-legged!
“DON’T forget to take your anti-Malarials” said all my well-meaning friends
Malaria can be fatal. However, very few Ugandans or expats take anti-Malarials. Read some of the precautions we take in How to Avoid Malaria.
When I was a Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer, I was given a whole list of vaccinations (15 injections in total!) and a free supply of anti-Malarials, in the belief it was cheaper to medicate me than to repatriate me.
“DON’T use a boda boda!” Said oh so many people
Riding a boda boda (motorbike taxi) is all part of the Ugandan experience, but play it safe and minimise the risks. Here’s the Muzungu’s guide on How to ride a boda boda.
“DON’T forget your sunscreen,” said my aunt
What I have lost in expat friends leaving Uganda, I have gained in bucket loads of sunscreen.
When volunteer friends have left Uganda, they’ve left me an assortment of half bottles of cosmetics. I have the full range of sunscreen, factors 5 through to 50, total block, waterproof, for kids – the lot.
But I like having a few freckles and I don’t hang around outside in the heat of the day.
I only seem to remember sunscreen when I’m going on Safari! But maybe I should rethink that…
“DON’T date a Ugandan!” One of my girlfriends told me
Ugandan men are handsome and can be very charming. They know how to tell women what we want to hear.
I’ve had more marriage proposals in Uganda than in my whole life!
But ladies, proceed with caution. Here are my tips on How to date a Ugandan.
So what are your do’s and don’ts for living and travelling in Uganda?
Do share them here. I’d love to read from you!
