Uganda slashes permit & park fees for all visitors
Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) announces long list of exciting discounts across the country!
If you’ve ever wanted to track the mountain gorillas, go on safari in Uganda’s National Parks and Wildlife Reserves, track chimpanzees or go birdwatching in Uganda’s Protected Areas, now is the time! Make the most of reduced fees until 30th June 2021. (In March 2021, UWA extended the discounts to the new June date).
It’s with great excitement that we can share a long list of discounts and incentives for visiting Uganda’s key wildlife attractions. Whether you are a Ugandan, an expat or planning to fly into Entebbe International Airport, travel between now and the end of June 2021. These substantial discounts make this gorgeous country even more attractive! (Pair these with discounts announced in July 2020 and you will be spoiled for choice!)
Reduction on mountain gorilla and chimpanzee tracking permit fees in Uganda for all visitors
Essentially, everyone is entitled to discounts, whether Ugandans, international tourists, expatriates living in Uganda or East African residents. Check out the tables I’ve created below.
NOTE: Uganda Wildlife Authority announced some discounts in July 2020 as well. I have tried to list them all in this blog as well (but the combinations and options do get a little confusing!)
Discounted prices for gorilla tracking and chimp tracking in Uganda from 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021
| GORILLA tracking permits – Uganda | *Now* | Was… | Saving |
|---|---|---|---|
| East African Community citizen (Ugandan, Rwandan, Kenyan, Tanzanian, South Sudanese) | UGX 150,000 | UGX 250,000 | UGX 100,000 |
| Foreign resident (expat) | USD 300 | USD 600 | USD 300 |
| Foreign non-resident (international tourist) | USD 400 | USD 700 | USD 300 |
Has this got you excited about tracking the mountain gorillas? Read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas.
| CHIMPANZEE tracking permits – Uganda | *Now* | Was… | Saving you |
|---|---|---|---|
| East African Community citizen | UGX 100,000 | UGX 150,000 | UGX 50,000 |
| Foreign resident (expat) | USD 100 | USD 150 | USD 50 |
| Foreign non-resident (international tourist) | USD 150 | USD 200 | USD 50 |
Chimpanzee tracking is a rather different experience – livelier, more energetic – and frequently very noisy! Read a wonderful account of chimp tracking here. I love on the edge of Kibale Forest so I have tons of stories and tips to share as well 😉
50% discount off park entrance fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021
UWA’s discounts apply to most National Parks and some Wildlife Reserves. The ones in the 50% promotion are: Lake Mburo, Queen Elizabeth, Kidepo Valley, Murchison Falls and Semliki National Parks; Toro-Semuliki, Katonga, Pian Upe and Kabwoya Wildlife Reserves.
There are three pricing categories: A, B and C. A is the most expensive (with the best facilities and most visited).
Here is the full – and pre-discounted – Uganda Wildlife Authority tariff of July 2020 to June 2022.
Pay for two days park entry and get one day free! Until June 2021
Note that UWA has another offer running currently too: pay for two days park entry and get one day free. This applies to all National Parks and Wildlife Reserves. The ‘3 for 2’ offer lasts until the end of June 2021.
It’s interesting to note that Uganda Wildlife Authority is promoting Wildlife Reserves. Plans are underway to upgrade Toro-Semliki, Katonga and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserves to National Park status in the very near future.
Visiting a National Park? Check out Diary of a Muzungu’ guide to Uganda’s National Parks.
50% discount off birding fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021
Yes! Did you know Uganda has over 1,000 bird species? (Contrast that with the U.K.’s 600 or so species and you get an idea of how special Uganda is. The countries are a similar size). Birding (or birdwatching) is one of the muzungu’s favourite activities.
50% discount off nature walk fees 1st December 2020 to end of March 2021
This applies to nature walks in Murchison Falls, Kidepo Valley, Queen Elizabeth, Lake Mburo National Parks and Kapkwai Exploration Centre in Mount Elgon National Park.
East Africans now pay 10,000 ugx.
Expats (foreign residents) and international tourists (foreign non-residents) now pay $15 (normally $30).
Do you want to climb Mount Elgon?
This is a really fantastic hike! Between now and the end of June 2022, groups of twenty people can get a 20% discount on the usual fees.
Read all about my four-day trip to Wagagai Peak in a “A girl called Kevin – climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda.”
How to track the gorillas and chimps – safely – during COVID
My plea: travel safely, wear a mask, wash your hands and sanitise frequently. If you’re planning to see the primates, follow the instructions to the letter. Mountain gorillas and chimpanzees are at high risk of catching COVID-19 from us and extra precautions have been put in place to ensure the safety of our closest relatives. Remember we are approximately 98% the same DNA and a chimp or gorilla can catch a human cold. Do not do anything that might compromise their health.
Uganda Wildlife Authority’s list of incentives will come as a big blow to neighbouring Rwanda who had dropped their gorilla tracking permits from a high $1500 down to $500, undercutting the stated prices in Uganda. However, everyone in Uganda is delighted that we can start marketing again! This is a great boost for the Ugandan tourism industry.
Visit the Uganda Wildlife Authority website for confirmation of the tourism incentive promotions.
Do you have any questions? If you’re ready to plan a trip, visit my Travel Directory. I work with a number of tour operators who can book gorilla and chimp permits, arrange your accommodation and guide you on safari.
Want a tried and tested recommendation? Feel free to drop a comment below or contact me directly.
Now let’s go enjoy Uganda’s wild areas!
Please share with a friend 
#VisitUganda #Tulambule #TravelTomorrow
Entebbe International Airport, Uganda: travel in ‘the new normal’
“Traveling in the age of the pandemic is not for the faint at heart” writes Prof Wolfgang Thome of ATCNews.org Wolfgang flew with Brussels Airlines from Entebbe International Airport, Uganda. He shares his experience of COVID-19 (Coronavirus) testing, airport check-in, what to pack, new protocols for travelers and airport operating procedures.
“The trials and tribulations of travel in the age of #COVID19- Part 1”
Posted 24th October 2020. Republished with the permission of the author.
Wolfgang writes:
We all look back at the days when one could book a ticket, at the airline, with a travel agent or do it online, pay and proceed to Entebbe, go through the – albeit dreaded – security checkpoints, check in, pass immigration and wait for the flight to be called for boarding.
No longer …
When Uganda’s main international aviation gateway finally opened on the 01st of October, months after our neighbours for that matter, had new protocols and operating procedure been introduced, adding more logistical requirements on wannabe travelers intent to leave the country by air.
First, and key to travel, is the required COVID19 negative test, which must be carried out within 72 hours before departure and notable does the clock begin to tick when the test is conducted, NOT when the results are released. It has been established that travelers have been barred from entering the airport after falling foul of these time limits.
While a range of facilities in Kampala, Entebbe and of late also Mbarara are able to take the test swabs, do most then send the vials to an official laboratory where the actual test is carried out.
Cost, as reported on ATCNews before, varies, as does the time frame within which the results are transmitted – which can take anywhere between 6 to 10 hours to two days. The need for speed does influence the cost of course and the faster the results are needed the more a traveler has to pay.
That hurdle taken, flight booking made, paid for and e-ticket issued, can packing then commence. Most airlines restrict the amount of cabin baggage to reduce the time needed to stow it away and reduce potential contact points for passengers and crew and travelers should more strictly observe these rules today than was the case in the past. It has been mentioned that both checked bags and cabin bags would be sanitized – at least the handles – but no evidence was seen to that effect when checking in at Entebbe.
I had opted to use the NAS – formerly ENHAS – Pearl Assist service, available for departing and arriving passengers, to ease the process of navigating through the various security and health check points before reaching the check in counters, but the service extends beyond that through immigration, into the lounge and then to the point of boarding.
First was my test result checked and the bar code scanned – from my phone, no hard copies are required – before I could proceed to the terminal entrance. There, as before, are passports looked at as are tickets following which entrance into the departure terminal is granted.
The immediate entrance security check is then conducted as was the case before, of all bags as well as the personal scan and when passed can one then proceed to the airline’s check in counter.
There again, are passport, ticket and yellow fever certificate checked before one is actually able to proceed to the counter itself. Plexiglass shields keep the distance between airline and handling agency staff and passenger.
The Brussels Airlines staff, as usual, were at their friendliest best, not having seen me for nearly 9 months since my last flight with them, and with my seat prebooked were the bags swiftly labelled and tagged before beginning their own journey on the baggage band into the loading area at ground level.
Next came immigration, the desks equally upgraded with added safety measures in the form of plexiglass shields. The staff were wearing masks and gloves while handling the passport and after I had scanned my finger prints I used my own sanitizer to clean my hands.
Next then came another new feature which needs to be mentioned.
In the past were boarding security checks carried out at every gate – there are four in use right now at Entebbe International Airport – but now a single departure area entrance point check has been installed, just behind the main duty free shops.
A second such checkpoint has been installed just at the door of the Government VIP Lounge, covering all entrances to the main departure area and ensuring that access to the boarding gate is now less congested, improving the traffic flow considerably.
This single access checkpoint is something ATCNews has repeatedly suggested in the past, as this feature had been introduced at other regional and international airports, but it took the pandemic to finally get this done, and well done for that matter. Better late than never …
Man wearing PPE. Entebbe Airport, Uganda 2020 PHOTO ATCNews.org
My next step of the journey was the use of the Premium Lounge in Entebbe, where again added safety measures had been put into place, including spaced seating. My Pearl Assist service member Robert delivered me to the lounge and escorted me later to the gate for boarding. His shift leaders Carol, who after introducing herself then handed over to Christine, both kept checking on progress, so no passenger booking this service will feel left alone at any stage from arrival at the airport to the point of boarding their aircraft.
Service at the lounge remains friendly but self service is no longer possible as all snacks and drinks MUST be served by staff, who are properly attired with gloves, masks and head shields. Guests can only touch their food and drinks once delivered to their tables, again in line with global health and safety protocols.
The final stage before departure was boarding and as the incoming aircraft from Kigali had landed 25 minutes early was boarding equally called early.
The Pearl Assist service was again at hand, ensured the use of priority boarding and then bid me farewell as Brussels Airlines staff took over. After a final check on my boarding pass and passport was I guided to the aircraft, an Airbus A330-300, for my nonstop flight to Brussels.As always when I travel directly to Europe I use Brussels Airlines for my flight which I already reviewed on TripAdvisor though part 2 of this narrative too will reflect on my experience.
Details of this part of my journey, covering the ‘New Normal’ inflight service, my arrival experience in Brussels and my subsequent onward journey to Germany, will be covered in part 2 of this narrative.
In closing, compliments to the Uganda Civil Aviation Authority for putting effective measures into place to make the flow from arrival to boarding somewhat more efficient compared to the past.
When it rains challenges remain of course to reach the departure level from the parking / drop off area but construction of the new terminal is advancing and that eternal problem – to remain relatively dry when it pours – will then hopefully be a thing of the past.
Staff, from aviation security to health personnel, were markedly more courteous and friendly, perhaps reminded by the 7 months grounding that it is travelers which keep them employed and who deserve a friendly disposition at all times and at all locations.
You can read the original article here on ATCNews.org
Wolfgang is a prolific writer and blogger at ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News. He is an aviation expert and has worked at a strategic level in tourism across East Africa for over four decades. He posts daily #COVID19 updates at 6 am and 6 pm. Read The future of travel in East Africa – Diary of a Muzungu’s interview with Prof Thome.
Related blogs you may find useful:
When can I travel to Uganda? post-lockdown FAQs based on Qs and As with travelers. September 2020
Now is the time to take precautions! US Embassy Kampala August 2020
Coronavirus survival tips: how to work from home based on a decade working from home in Uganda. March 2020
Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda comprehensive health advice. Published March 2020 and updated regularly.
Are you traveling to Uganda? Have you passed through Entebbe Airport during the pandemic? Please share your experiences – or any questions – here. We’d love to read them 🙂
Uniquely Semliki
Semliki Safari Lodge, Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve, western Uganda
Where in Uganda can you enjoy a night game drive, engage with experts who are actively conserving a Protected Area and share stories over Masterchef–calibre dinners at the Captain’s Table?
The luxurious Semliki Safari Lodge sits in the middle of Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, a Protected Area that will soon be upgraded to a National Park. “Uganda’s oldest upmarket tented camp” is equidistant from Lake Albert and the excellent new road from Fort Portal to Bundibugyo that winds its way through jaw-dropping Rift Valley panoramas.
This was my third – and arguably my most interesting – visit to this luxury lodge. My mission? To count birds on behalf of NatureUganda… (while being spoiled rotten!)
Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve’s birdlife is fantastic and easily seen. The wildlife reserve may not have the animal numbers of well-established National Parks but forest elephants and a multitude of primates made for three memorable game drives. One morning I even heard the unmistakable sound of a chimpanzee in the forest below my tent.
If you want to reconnect with nature – in luxury and style – I highly recommend a few days at Semliki Safari Lodge.
“I heard a leopard last night” Lodge Manager Tony announced when we checked in – but would we see one?
Scroll down to read the Muzungu’s account of our night game drive and learn about all the diverse activities you can do in and around the lodge.
Scat, cats and bats! A night game drive in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve
We were thrilled when the team suggested we jump in the lodge’s safari vehicle for a night game drive. As we dimmed our torches, fireflies blinked in the darkness and we bumped along the marram track towards the airstrip.
Our first sighting was a pretty little Genet Cat, similar in size to a domestic cat with a bushy tail. Once I was familiar with their eye colour and size, it was easy to pick out more Genets in the woodland either side of the track.
A few minutes from the lodge, we pulled up next to a big puddle. We were amazed when Tony jumped out and plucked a terrapin from the muddy water! He explained how Side-headed Terrapins are common in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve but only appear when the rain fills up the ruts and gullies. “Our guides drive around the puddles to protect the terrapins, rather than through them.” He added.
On the airstrip, a small flat area of cut grass, we cruised slowly up and down looking for nightjars, shy nocturnal birds that are sometimes seen ‘dust bathing’ on the ground. They are masters of camouflage. It’s only when you (almost) run over them that you notice them fly off in alarm.
According to Stevenson and Fanshawe’s Birds of East Africa “Nightjars are a notoriously difficult group to identify: not only do the species look alike, several have different colour morphs.” Don’t ask this casual birder to tell the two species apart, but our guides did. There were two new ticks for the muzungu that night: a Square-tailed Nightjar and a Slender-tailed Nightjar. Temporarily dazzled by our torches, the nightjars sat silent and immobile giving us the chance to admire their delicate plumage.
A Water Thick-knee pretended not to see us. This mainly nocturnal bird “freezes or squats if disturbed,” the book tells us. How true! “They are easily identified by their well-camouflaged brown plumage, large yellow eyes and long thickly jointed yellowish legs.”
Our nocturnal adventure continued with more interesting creatures: a leopard had visited the airstrip not long before us.
As we swept our torches along the ground, we picked out the small dark shapes of animal droppings. On closer inspection, the leopard scat (poo) was crawling with 40 dung beetles. Tony’s eyes lit up with excitement “I’ve never seen so many!” He said. “It’s the remains of a leopard’s kill.”
As we leaned in for a closer look, we recognised fluffy grey baboon fur among the dung beetles, moths and leopard scat. The beetles had clearly been industrious in the preceding 24-hours: little remained of the baboon prey.
Back in the vehicle, we spotted the ears of a young Kob poking through the long grass at the verge of the airstrip.
“Don’t disturb it.” Tony explained how we must not draw attention to this lone calf. It would make easy pickings for a leopard.
As we drove back to the lodge – and around the puddles – a Yellow-winged Bat swept through the night air. The beam of the headlights picked out a Defassa Waterbuck in the sanctuary of the lodge grounds. We may not have seen the leopard, but it was clearly around.
Wining, dining and sleeping – Semliki Safari Lodge’s creature comforts
Even with the reduced number of staff (due to the pandemic) the lodge did a tremendous job of looking after us. Every mouthful of food was delicious. Each ingredient is carefully considered, from the home-made chili to the exquisite pumpkin soup and pretty creations of delicate salad leaves. Breakfast is a gourmet affair of poached eggs with bacon and rocket, cereals and tropical fruit served with home-made bread, chunky marmalade and excellent coffee.
Every night, guests are invited to dine by candlelight with the lodge managers at the Captain’s Table, a rare treat at a Ugandan lodge. Tony and Noline are seasoned Safari experts. (I would revisit Semliki Safari Lodge any time for these shared dining experiences alone!)
The huge dining table – fashioned from one gigantic slab of wood – is perfect for social distancing. Semliki’s main living area of chunky sofas, tribal art and wall murals by the artist Taga is rather grand.
All rooms are fitted to a high standard. The hardwood floor of the luxury tents felt wonderful underfoot and there is generous amounts of hot water for the showers and luxurious outdoor bathtubs. Persian carpets and antique furniture recall a classic African safari. Kikois and slippers are provided, as well as mosquito repellent and a lockable cupboard. Every suite has a daybed on its private deck. (As I write this, I feel the urge to return!)
On a tour of the lodge grounds, lodge manager Tony explained how the units have been re-modelled to maximise the forest views. The new layout almost doubles the floor size of each luxury setup. Where possible, every item has been recycled, including “Amin’s steel,” reclaimed from the ruins of the original Uganda Hotel that once sat on this site. New materials include Elgon olive wood and thatch provided by the nearby Ntoroko Grass Growers’ Association.
Here in the bush, the Uganda Safari Company has invested heavily in solar power, a water borehole, a vegetable garden and more. They supply the water to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and UPDF (army) camps, a key contribution to managing the security of the Wildlife Reserve and its wildlife. Working together, the three organisations have cut the tracks and created a pond for animals to drink from during the dry season, amongst other initiatives. I admire The Uganda Safari Company’s vision – and determination – to protect this little pocket of nature.
What was Diary of a Muzungu doing at Semliki Safari Lodge?
Twice a year the team from Sunbird Hill carry out bird population monitoring on behalf of NatureUganda. Our patch is the Kibale Conservation Area which comprises Kibale National Park, Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Lake Saka / Lake Bikere, Toro Botanical Gardens, Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve.
Why should you go on safari at Semliki Safari Lodge?
Whether you drive – or fly in – to Semliki, I highly recommend game drives with the lodge’s knowledgeable site guides Julius and David. They know the Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve inside out and are full of interesting anecdotes. They are expert drivers too.
What are the rates to stay at Semliki Safari Lodge?
Semliki Safari Lodge have some superb rates for residents. Take advantage of them while you can. The lodge has two packages to choose from: Full Board includes all meals and the Game Package includes meals, certain non-premium drinks and two game drives a day. If you make an enquiry, please say Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉
Recommended activities from Semliki Safari Lodge
- A night game drive to the airstrip.
- Safari game drive on one of the numerous tracks in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve.
- A dip in the lodge swimming pool.
- Sundowners around the lodge campfire at the lodge or at the Semliki Bush Bar on an evening game drive.
- Luxurious bush breakfasts, picnics and private dinners in stunning locations.
- Primate walk in Mugiri Forest below the lodge. Chimp sightings are not guaranteed but you have a good chance of seeing Olive Baboons, Vervet, Red-tailed and Black and White Colobus Monkeys. Bookings can be made at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office next to the lodge entrance.
- Lake Albert and tours to see the Shoebill are 30 minutes’ drive away and can be arranged by the lodge.
- Semliki is “a Mecca for birders” with over 425 species recorded. My birding highlights included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Crested Francolin, Crowned Hornbill, Palm Nut Vulture, Flappet Lark, White-browed Coucal, Grey Kestrel, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Striped Kingfisher, Helmeted Guineafowl, African Paradise Flycatcher, Black-billed Barbet, Northern Black Flycatcher, Oxpecker, Ruppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Long-crested Eagle, Black Coucal, Grey-backed Fiscal, Rattling Cisticcola, Blue-naped Mousebird, Ring-necked Dove, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Ross’s Turaco, Pygmy Kingfisher, Piapiac, Bateleur, African White-backed Vulture, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, Blue-spotted Wood-dove, Little Bee eater, White-banded Snake Eagle, Fork-tailed Drongo, Black-billed Wood-dove, Lanner Falcon, Spotted Morning Thrush – and two species of Nightjar.
- Look for butterflies. The Sunbird Hill team identified over 50 species including: Blue Sailor, Sulphur Orange Tip, Pea Blue, Red Tip, African Queen, Pearl Charaxes, Citrus Swallowtail, Blue Demon Charaxes, Scarlet Tip and Guineafowl Butterfly.
- Birding in Semliki National Park (SNP) or Ntandi along the main road just outside SNP, just over an hour’s drive from the lodge.
- The hot springs at Sempaya, Semliki National Park.
- Do a day – or longer – hike in the Rwenzori foothills. There are a number of tour operators and community organisations that organise hikes. Send me a message if you would like a recommendation.
- Andrew Roberts, co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide, recommends the (very steep) walk from Ntandi to Karagutu.
- Bundibugyo is the Rwenzori region’s closest town to the DRC (just 10km). There is not a lot to do in Bundibugyo but I find it rather charming. It’s a scenic drive, particularly during the rainy seasons. Look out for cocoa plantations along the route.
- Enjoy the Rift Valley scenery. As you drive from Fort Portal, skirting the Rwenzori foothills to the left, there are a number of roadside stops where you can take photographs. To your right is the Kijura Escarpment, the “eastern wall of the Rift Valley” according to Andrew Roberts’ excellent maps of Uganda.
If you love birds, a tranquil pace, seriously great food and stimulating company, you will love Semliki Safari Lodge. It’s perfect for seasoned safari-goers who want to reconnect with nature.
Would you like to visit Semliki? Which activities would you try?
Read more about Semliki Safari Lodge in my Travel Directory and, if you make an enquiry, please mention the Muzungu sent you 😉
Will you support the campaign to save Bugoma Forest?
Bugoma Forest: A garden of Eden under threat.
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, I’m passionate about the environment. It’s devastating to hear how advanced the plans are to destroy yet more indigenous forest. The campaign to #SaveBugomaForest is gathering momentum – but do we have time? I’m delighted to see the New Vision Group promoting the cause to save Bugoma Forest. Thank you to New Vision Group for allowing me to republish this article by Gerald Tenywa, first published by them on 30th September 2020.
Scroll down to watch a short video clip from Malcolm Webb of Al Jazeera entitled Uganda: Bugoma forest reserve facing destruction.
Vision Group begins a campaign to save Bugoma Forest.
ENVIRONMENT | #SAVEBUGOMAFOREST
A chunk of Bugoma Forest Reserve is being cleared for sugarcane growing. There is no doubt this will bring jobs and some social services closer to the people. But the encroachment could start and soon the whole forest will be gone. Dire climate change consequences will follow. Today, Vision Group begins a campaign to save Bugoma Forest.
The birds chirp in the trees. Not far away, black and white colobus monkeys shy away as a tiny path into the wildlife sanctuary unveils what part of the 41,000ha Bugoma Forest Reserve offers. The birds and monkeys are part of Bugoma Central Forest. It is their natural home. But they are threatened with eviction as part of the forest is being cleared for sugarcane growing.
The National Environment Management Authority (NEMA), gave a go-ahead to the sugar project, an indication that it sees no negative impact on the environment when the forest is replaced by sugarcane. Yet, once it is cleared the birds and chimpanzees will not have a home.
Already, they have been under threat from farmland and logging activities. A Vision Group team is in the forest, accompanied by Nazario Asiimwe, a tour guide. Chimpanzees cry out, jumping from one tree to another.
Asiimwe explains the loud cries as grumbling because the chimps are not comfortable with the intrusion into their homeland. “This is one of the better days when you do not have to labour to see some of Bugoma’s best kept secrets,” Asiimwe says.
He explains that on some days you have to walk for hours before you can spot a chimpanzee or colobus monkey.
Costantino Tessarin, an investor in tourism accommodation, says Bugoma is endowed with chimpanzees. He points out that some of them are undergoing habituation.
Habituation is a process through which primates such as chimpanzees get used to human presence without losing their wild character. The habituation of the chimps in Bugoma started last year and they could be open to tourism in the coming year.
Already, primate tourism in Bugoma is generating a lot of interest. This is because an endemic species of monkeys known as the Ugandan mangabey has become an eye-catcher for tourists. “Ugandan mangabeys are the flagbearers of Bugoma,” Tessarin says, adding that animals are also being re-introduced in the nearby Kabwoya Wildlife Reserve.
Tessarin says to track the Ugandan mangabey, tourists have to part with $40 (sh150,000). This is higher than the nature walk which goes for $25 (sh100,000). Tracking chimps could go for as a high as $200 (sh740,000).
In other parks with chimps, Ugandans part with sh150,000 to track them. Resident non-nationals (expatriates) pay $150 (sh553,000) and foreign tourists $200 (740,000). Tourism is the highest foreign exchange earner in Uganda.
In 2017, Uganda earned $1.4b from the sector. This was expected to double to $2.7b (sh9.8 trillion) by 2020. Tourism earnings are about 10% of Uganda’s Gross Domestic Product, according to the Uganda Tourism Board.
Given that Hoima is located only 200 km from Kampala, Bugoma and Kabwoya could become the tourism destination nearest to Kampala. Mbarara where Lake Mburo National Park is found and Mbale that is blessed with Mt. Elgon National Park are located 240km from the capital city. Murchison Falls National Park is 203 km away.
BIG TOURISM POTENTIAL
Tessarin says the tourism potential of Bugoma and Kabwoya wildlife reserve is immense, but is barely being scratched.
He says Bugoma promises to become a stopover for tourists heading to the northern tourist circuit (Murchison Falls National Park) and the southern tourist circuit (Queen Elizabeth National Park, Kibale National Park and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park).
The prospects of Bugoma and Kabwoya as a stopover have increased with the construction of the road linking the Kampala-Gulu highway to Fort Portal through Kigumba, Masindi, Hoima and Kyenjojo.
In addition to the Kigumba-Kyenjojo road, Bunyoro has been networked with the construction of the oil roads. The connectivity will increase further with the construction of Hoima International Airport.
The discovery of oil is also bringing many people, including workers and expatriates, to Hoima and Buliisa. This could become part of the market Bugoma and Kabwoya should be looking up to. “Bugoma could be the new tourism hub,” Tessarin says.
In 2018, the hotel hosted 196 tourists. The number increased to 276 last year. This year, the numbers were projected to increase to 350400 before COVID-19 spoilt Bugoma’s party.
Another accommodation facility was supposed to be set up at Lwera. However, the investment in a second lodge is being discouraged by the encroachment on Bugoma by the expansive sugarcane plantation.
SUGARCANE IN BUGOMA
Hoima Sugar Limited, a private company, is moving into the heart of Bugoma, clearing part of the ancient forest for growing of sugarcane. The sugar company leased the land from Gafabusa Iguru, the king of Bunyoro.
This was three days after the Bunyoro king acquired a land title for the land, which also houses a cultural site for the kings of Bunyoro. This land was carved out of Bugoma after the king of Bunyoro claimed ownership of the land adding that not far from Bugoma are Kabwoya and Lake Albert.
At Bugoma, Tessarin is turning his dreams into reality. He has built Jungle Lodge at the fringes of Bugoma Forest.
As Hoima Sugar clears 5,779.7ha, part of Bugoma near Nsozi in Kyangwali sub-county, MZ Agencies is also clearing a swathe of forest sitting on 2,000ha from Kisaru. The two investments are eating into the heart of Bugoma towards Kaseeta.
Mustafa Zaidi, a tycoon in Hoima city, owns MZ Agencies. This will not only destroy the beauty of Bugoma, but also pose a risk to the chimps that are categorised as endangered species. Muhangaizima, where the companies are operating, is where most of the 600 chimps housed by the forest stay.
“The chimps are going to lose their habitat,” says Bashir Hangi, the public relations manager of Uganda Wildlife Authority. “Do you know what this means? Human-wildlife conflicts are going to escalate. The chimps are going to get into contact with the human population and grab their children as well as destroy crops.”
Link to original article on New Vision.
SAVE BUGOMA FOREST CAMPAIGN supporters include the Uganda Tourism Association, Association of Uganda Tour Operators, Association of Uganda Tour Guides, Association of Uganda Travel Agents, Uganda Jungle Lodges Ltd, Rosaline Place LTD, Destination Jungle Ltd, NGO Uganda Coalition, Association for the Conservation of Bugoma Forest, Association of Scouts of Uganda, Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust, Joint Energy and Environment Projects (JEEP), Tree Talk Plus, Care International, ACODE, Youth Leading Environment Change (YLEC), Bugoma Chimpanzee Project, Eco-trust, NAPE.
Please share the links and let’s #SaveBugomaForest.
Got anything to add? Please share it here.
Entebbe International Airport reopens
Uganda Civil Aviation Authority directives for resumption of international flights
The Muzungu writes: Entebbe International Airport is open again. Many Ugandans and expats have been returning to Uganda and they report that the COVID-19 protocols at Entebbe Airport are generally working well. The official statement from Uganda Civil Aviation Authority below raises a few questions so do note everything is subject to change. There is no quarantine now unless you arrive with symptoms. Self-isolation is recommended option now for majority of positive COVID-19 cases.
UPDATE May 2021: travel remains subject to change so I draw your attention to the comments below this blog post. At the time of writing, flights from India to Uganda are banned. Numerous countries are required to have an additional PCR test on arrival in Uganda.
UPDATE November 2021: I am regularly updating the blog post Latest COVID-19 health measures at Entebbe International Airport so if you are travelling soon, please bookmark that page.
This is the official statement. First published October 4 2020 by Tony Ofungi
Ahead of the resumption of all scheduled and non-scheduled passenger flights in and out of Entebbe on 1st October, 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the Government of the Republic of Uganda issued directives regarding the resumption of international flights.They were contained in a letter signed off by Fred Bamwesigye Ag. Director-General, the Uganda Civil Aviation Authority as follows:
1. All arriving passengers on international flights whose body temperature is NOT above 37.5° C (99.5°F); do not have a persistent cough, difficulty in breathing, or other flu-like symptoms; have negative PCR based COVID – 19 test carried out within 72 hours before travel shall be exempt from quarantine.
NOTE December 2020: the PCR test period has a longer window now: it must be carried out within 120 hours of touchdown at Entebbe (not 72 hours).
i. For passengers presenting with symptoms at Entebbe International Airport without a test result, a sample will be collected upon arrival and the individual is required to quarantine at his / her cost until the result is returned. The sample will be tested at the individual’s cost.
ii. Testing of any of the recent travelers will be symptom-based, in the event that they develop symptoms consistent with COVID-19.
iii. Contacts to recent travelers that develop symptoms consistent with COVID-19 will be advised to self-quarantine for 14 days and tested if symptomatic. The contacts that are in the high-risk category will be prioritized for testing to ensure early diagnosis and management.
iv. The most vulnerable individuals will be prioritised for tracking, testing and care if infected.
v. Self-isolation and self-management, under well-defined Standard Operating Procedures and clear referral pathways will be instituted for the asymptomatic non-high-risk individuals.
vi. Health facility-based isolation and care will be preserved for the moderately, severely and critically ill case-patients.
vii. Consideration will be made for auxiliary non-health facility-based isolation and management of mild cases especially among the high-risk categories.
2. All crew shall be exempt from quarantine after operating any flight if they have negative PCR based COVID – 19 test carried out within 14 days before travel, their body temperature is not above 37.5° C (99.5°F); do not exhibit symptoms of COVID–19 and there is no suspected case of COVID-19 on their flight. With a suspected case of COVID-19 on the flight, the crew shall be quarantined at home or designated facility. If results are negative they shall be allowed to resume normal duties.
3. Air operators shall be responsible for ensuring: the passengers are tested prior to travel; proper screening; medical briefing and reporting any cases to the relevant authorities.
4. Passengers traveling out of Uganda will be required to have an Authentic Valid Negative PCR test Certificate and abide by the particular travel, health and COVID-19 related requirements of the Destination Country.
5. Passengers arriving on flights after the curfew, with a valid Air Ticket and Boarding Pass shall be allowed to proceed to their hotels and/or residences.
6. Drivers should have evidence that they have come from Entebbe Airport to drop or pick up passengers.
7. Passengers departing on flights after the curfew, with a valid Air Ticket and Boarding Pass shall be allowed to proceed to their departure airport.
8. Air Operators shall provide guidance material to passengers regarding the application of the preventive measures on board.
9. Where physical distancing cannot be guaranteed because of the seat configuration or other operational constraints, the crew members will make constant on-board announcements reminding passengers to adhere at all times to all the other preventive measures including strict hand hygiene and respiratory etiquette and should wear a surgical face mask. In addition, other measures such as cabin high-efficiency particulate filters (HEPA) where available will be employed.
10. Uganda Civil Aviation Authority is reviewing the frequency and timing of flights to facilitate physical distancing at Entebbe International Airport. So far only 12 airlines have resumed operations including Turkish, RwandAir, Ethiopian Airlines, Emirates, Tarco Air, FlyDubai and Kenya Airways.
Related blogs you may find useful:
When can I travel to Uganda? post-lockdown FAQs based on Qs and As with travelers. September 2020
Coronavirus survival tips: how to work from home based on a decade working from home in Uganda.
Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda comprehensive health advice, updated regularly.
Uganda tourist visas – apply online or buy on arrival at Entebbe Airport.
The Muzungu adds: I’m in daily contact with travelers and the tourism industry and am always happy to answer your questions. Contact me or post your questions here in the comments so other travelers can benefit from our experiences and knowledge.
Conservation in Africa during the Pandemic: podcast interview
Charlotte Beauvoisin talks to Kojo Bentum-Williams about Conservation in Africa during the Pandemic.
The VA Tourism Podcast is a dedicated platform for discussing happenings in the travel and tourism sector. It is hosted by Kojo Bentum-Williams, the Managing Editor and Publisher of Africa’s Leading Travel Media VoyagesAfriq Travel Media.
Listen to the VA Tourism Podcast here (25 minutes). Below is a transcript of our conversation (with links to further reading).
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: tell us a little about yourself and what you do in Uganda.
My name is Charlotte. My Ugandan name is Nagawa, which in the local language means that I am the protector of the Red-tailed Monkey Nkima. I have a lot of fun with this name. Some of my Ugandan friends call me Nagawa and don’t even know me as Charlotte! Read “Nagawa, you cowardised – a detour via the Congo.”
It’s quite poignant to be called Nagawa because it has a strong conservation message: when you have a Kiganda name you automatically have a totem. It’s your responsibility to protect your totem and I have (quite a glamorous) monkey. Some people have a mushroom, or a tree totem and they are not allowed to kill the animal or eat it or chop down that tree so there’s a nice conservation aspect to having a Kiganda name. Read “Bwindi – eye to eye with my totem.”
Uganda is my adopted home. I’ve been here since 2009 when I arrived as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation (UCF), a British charity that does a lot of work on Human Wildlife Conflict and antipoaching in the National Parks. I came here on a two-year contract as a VSO volunteer. VSO (Voluntary Service Overseas) is for professional volunteers who want to share their skills with developing countries.
I ended up in Uganda not knowing very much at all about the country. I had heard of Idi Amin and Lake Victoria, but I don’t think I knew much else about Uganda. However, I loved Uganda as soon as I got here. It’s a very beautiful country with incredibly welcoming people. Read “Why #VisitUganda? Dispelling a few myths.”
I had some really great experiences with UCF. We would go to Queen Elizabeth National Park and hang out with the rangers. The most interesting part (of volunteering with UCF) wasn’t just the wild animals but meeting the villagers, the subsistence farmers who live on the edge of the National Park who have to put up with buffaloes and elephants and other animals that were trying get into the shambas and eat their crops. Read “How do you deal with an elephant in your garden?”
UCF has interventions like an elephant trench which is a long trench – several kilometres long in places. The idea is that it is a physical barrier that stops an elephant wandering into your garden. Elephants are incredibly destructive; what they don’t eat, they can trample. That was my first job here in Uganda – fundraising and marketing for UCF.
Our aim was to build the capacity of rangers that work in Queen Elizabeth National Park. In these big remote areas, it’s hard to cover a lot of ground and generally the poachers know the area better than anyone else. We gave the rangers capacity to patrol using boats on the lakes and rivers; it’s quicker to jump in a boat and go straight across the lake than it is to find the vehicle, find the fuel and drive round the lake. Doing things ‘the old way’ on land gave the poachers time to escape. Read “Anti-poaching: the answer’s in the gum boots!”
I cut my teeth in conservation in Uganda although I’m not a conservationist by training, I’m a marketing manager. Uganda is such a diverse country – and a developing country with many environmental issues – so I spend a lot of time volunteering to promote anti-poaching, birdwatching, gorilla tracking and more. Conservation is my big passion and I’m still very actively involved in lots of conservation projects.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: At what point did you come into media? When did you launch Diary of a Muzungu?
I heard this blog word about 10 years ago and thought blogging sounded like something I’d like to do. I was working in proposal writing in London, so I had the formal training of business writing and gradually built up my portfolio of CSR projects. I liked writing for the staff newsletter and that kind of thing, so I came into communications through corporate-type work.
I had a strong desire to come and live in Africa (since I was a teenager in fact), and the blog was a way to document this life changing-experience. Rather than write lots of emails to friends and family back home, I said to them ‘if you’re interested in my new life, why don’t you follow my blog?’ That’s how Diary of a Muzungu started.
Early stories were about me sleeping under a mosquito net for the first time and going out into the bush with the rangers. The first few months in Uganda were really amazing. I love birds and the tropical birds that we have just outside our window here in Uganda were things I wanted to shout about all the time. Read “Birds send my heart a flutter.”
The blog was a hobby that kind of got out of control! After a couple of years, I met a Ugandan tourism marketing lecturer who told me I was promoting Uganda in a way no-one else was. This was a lightbulb moment for me. I had no idea I was promoting Uganda. I thought I was just telling the world about my new life and conservation issues here. Now I write to promote Uganda and East Africa for tourism, but a lot of my stories are about conservation because those issues are really dear to me.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: How has COVID pandemic affected Uganda? And how has COVID affected conservation in Uganda?
Uganda is not doing badly right now. [This podcast was recorded at the end of August 2020]. We have less than 20 deaths from coronavirus but things have gathered speed over the last two weeks and Ugandans are now starting to realise that COVID is real and that we have to take action. Unfortunately, people are quite reluctant to wear masks and people who have them don’t wear them properly and don’t understand you have to social distance as well. In terms of awareness, we are very much behind the curve here but fortunately the number of infections is comparatively low by comparison, for example, with Kenya and Tanzania. The deaths remain low and we have a very young population (over half the population is under 35) so we are hopeful that we won’t suffer too much because the economy is on its knees. The airport and the borders have been closed for almost five months and tourism is the number one foreign revenue earner. A lot of people are really suffering financially.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: Looking at conservation, a lot of funding for National Parks across Africa is through tourism. How are people navigating that now that tourism is effectively shut?
To answer that, let me give you a description of where I live.
I live on the edge of Kibale National Park in Western Uganda which is 795 km². It’s one of our top parks because of the chimpanzee population. There are 13 types of primate here, but the chimpanzees are the people (rather our ‘relatives’) that tourists come to see. Chimpanzee tracking tourism is shut* so even though some of the parks have reopened the primate parks (with chimpanzees and gorillas) remain closed. That’s because we know that they are susceptible to COVID because we are approximately 98% the same DNA.
*Chimpanzee tracking tourism has been reopened since the recording of the podcast.
I live at a place called Sunbird Hill. The land touches the National Park and so the lack of tourism has devastated everything that has been happening around here. All the people that we interact with are guides or rangers and most of them lost their jobs, or nominally still have a job but have been sent home with no money or a bit of pocket money.
The people from the village are doing a little better because they can still farm. We live in a very lush area, so we have two harvests. Villagers are planting cassava, beans, Irish and sweet potatoes, millet and ground nuts.
As for the guides who move up and down the country, they are not getting any tourists. They are not driving tourists around and not getting tips (which can be worth as much as the actual salary). Our guides are really affected because not only are they without salary, they also miss the tips, which are sometimes in dollars.
The Uganda Wildlife Authority have committed to keeping everything going for a year and the UWA Executive Director Sam Mwandha announced that they would carry on funding the anti-poaching patrols until July 2021. They committed to 12 months but there is a huge amount of insecurity within the conservation sector – and of course the tourism sector – because we don’t how long the pandemic is going to last for and at what point we need to source extra money into running those reserves. Read Uganda Wildlife Authority discusses wildlife protection during the pandemic on Facebook Live.
Uganda’s savannah parks have reopened but who’s going there? We don’t have a lot of domestic tourists and besides, domestic tourists pay a lot less than international tourists do to enter the parks. We are in a dire situation now and I’m not sure how we going to make up the shortfall in the long run.
Fundraising is happening, however. African Wildlife Foundation, for example, has been very visible throughout the pandemic and they’ve fundraised to support rangers. Even though a ranger may be on a salary from the Uganda Wildlife Authority, the concern is that these rangers worry about losing their jobs and may turn a blind eye to people going to the parks to poach. We have seen the increase in poaching across Africa and most of it, we believe, is for subsistence. However, there’s still a danger of the commercial poaching element coming in and taking advantage of the fact that people don’t have the money that they used to; also, some rangers can be persuaded to turn a blind eye or will even become poachers themselves.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: Sometimes there is a misconception that nature is getting a break in the face of pressures such as land grabbing, illegal mining, wildlife poaching and so on? What’s your stance on that?
We have seen the chimps many times from private land and I do wonder whether they miss human interaction. However, my feeling is that the chimpanzees and gorillas might be enjoying a holiday during lockdown. Although you only spend an hour with the primates if you go on an organised tour, these animals are wild and I’m sure they prefer just being left to do their own thing.
We have seen clearer skies across the world so it’s wonderful to see the environment recovering. Mount Fuji for example is visible and Mount Kenya can now be seen from Nairobi.
I do feel that wildlife and Protected Areas are recovering to some degree but then I’m very concerned about areas that are not Protected Areas; in fact, most of Africa’s wildlife is outside the gazetted areas of the National Parks and Conservancies. Here, for instance, on the edge of Kibale National Park we know a bushbuck was poached. It is not a rare animal but it’s not common to see one so I was very disappointed to find that Sunbird Hill’s site guide (and reformed poacher) found a trap and evidence that an animal was killed on our land a few weeks ago. That’s the first time that we’ve heard of animals being poached on this part of land. We also hear that there was a plan to catch an elephant recently.
The pressing issue we have now is the increasing human wildlife conflict: we had elephants on our land last night. They did quite a lot of damage as they were in our neighbours’ banana plantation and were uprooting cassava and sweet potatoes too. If you don’t have tourists and you don’t have a regular income now – more than ever – you need all those crops. You really don’t need elephants or chimps or baboons coming in and destroying everything, sometimes in one night. Some kids told us that villagers were trying to catch an elephant perhaps because the elephant was going on their land or was it because they are looking for extra money and they want the ivory? (I don’t think you can just kill an elephant and sell the ivory just like that but the plan to kill an elephant is unexpected).
At the same time, more trees are being felled outside the Protected Area. Climate change is going to suffer as a result of thisbecause people are cutting trees to burn charcoal. Charcoal burning creates ‘quick and easy money’ so we are really worried about the environment outside the protection of the National Park.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: In terms of policy, have you heard any deliberate policies from the Ugandan government so that we don’t roll back the country’s conservation achievements?
I’m impressed that UWA has made the public commitment to keep people in their jobs and to keep the law-enforcement patrols over the coming year but beyond that I haven’t seen anything from government about supporting conservation in Uganda (during and beyond the pandemic).
I think individuals are trying; individual tour companies and conservation organisations, for example, are trying to do what they can, fundraising for villagers who traditionally earn from tourism but I don’t see anything from government, but somebody may correct me if I’ve missed that.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: Do you think domestic tourism in Uganda has good prospects?
I like looking to Kenya to see what they’ve done with their domestic tourism. They have completely overhauled tourism in Kenya over the last five years. It’s incredibly impressive and I love meeting Kenyans because when they go away for the weekend they go to the Maasai Mara or Mombasa. They are incredibly adventurous so it is possible, but Uganda is much further down the line. Having said that, I do meet Ugandans in their 20s and early 30s who are adventurous. They like to travel in groups and they like to go away for weekends somewhere and party. Some of them are into safari activities as well. People might say ‘Africans don’t want to go on safari to see animals.’ Actually, that’s not quite true; I think the younger demographic gets it and they are interested in conservation issues and going out and exploring and seeing animals. Read “How to be a tourist – my top four tips for Ugandans who want to travel.”
Older Ugandans who travel (40s, 50s and above) are still more likely to want to go to Mombasa or somewhere outside Uganda. They don’t see Uganda as a holiday destination and that’s partly because the pricing and the packages haven’t been right but we do talk a lot about domestic tourism now in Uganda and hopefully the moment is right for that. We really need Ugandans and expats living in Uganda to make lodge bookings and to keep the revenue coming in to keep people in jobs.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: what is one thing that you think we should do better post-pandemic in the tourism world?
There have been some silver linings during coronavirus for me. Living on the edge of National Park I spend a lot of time outdoors. I have always been an outdoors kind of person but I notice that if I get fed up, I go outside for just five minutes and nature resets my brain. It puts me on a more positive wavelength just noticing the flowers and hearing the birds sing.
I think that’s a feeling that many people have had around the world, even people in towns and stuck in apartments, they have had a yearning to be outside and go to the park
I hope we remember this. I hope we harness this feeling because this could be really powerful: the feeling that nature can make you feel so much better about yourself and about life. How do we harness that so people understand the intrinsic value of nature and wildlife, rather than seeing it as a commodity?
#LockdownDiaries
I think things go through phases don’t they? Some would say ‘let’s give a value to an elephant because then we are more likely to protect it, if we see it as a tourism investment’ but let’s not forget that all these living things also have an intrinsic value which I know has really kept me positive during this time.
[Read my #LockdownDiaries that document my daily nature walks. Story no. 12 finds us birdwatching in Semliki Wildlife Reserve in Uganda’s Rift Valley].
I’m a travel blogger so I’m normally on the road. I’m also a digital marketing trainer and specialise in teaching tour operators and tourism businesses so everything I normally do has been put on hold. It’s therefore been really important to get out there and be intrigued and captivated by nature. How do we harness that going forward – that pure joy of nature?
I’ve been listening to a lot of audiobooks. I rarely get newspapers and I have really relied on reading and audiobooks. I noticed that one of the top audiobook downloads was the sound of the forest; it comprises thirty minutes of raindrops and a waterfall. That audiobook showed me how people really yearn for this positive connection with nature. Let’s remember that feeling and try and work with that as we try and push our way out of this situation.
Kojo, VoyagesAfriq: what is your message to tourists and travellers: what ethics do we need to adhere to?
This is a great opportunity for us to rethink how we travel and to plan to travel more sustainably. I was interested to hear your podcast with Judy Kepher Gona of Sustainable Travel Tourism Agenda (STTA) in Kenya who is doing fantastic work regarding sustainable tourism and the future. This is not just about protecting wildlife and getting community involvement in all aspects of the value chain but also looking at reducing our carbon footprint when we travel.
I would like visitors to interact more with communities and to travel more responsibly. I would like to see plastic water bottles banned. Kenya has banned them from the National Parks in June this year. (Please don’t track with a plastic bottle – bring your own refillable metal bottle). These small things make a big difference. As I say, I live on the edge of a National Park and we don’t want a tour van to turn up and empty a day’s worth of plastic bottles with us. We are on the edge of a village; how do we recycle 20 plastic bottles?
I’d also say to potential visitors: if you are planning a holiday in Uganda or Africa, please postpone and don’t cancel. We need you here. It is not just about needing money, but we also need the exposure and the good stories that people take back home and share on Facebook, for example.
How do we support conservation during this lean period? If people can think about making cash donations in the short-term, then please do so because cash does make a big difference to the motivation levels of guides and rangers and local people. I’d also say – because it’s all connected – don’t eat bush meat and don’t buy ivory or wildlife products because this is what is driving the increase in poaching. It’s all connected. So many aspects of our lives are far more connected than we realised until this year.
Thanks Kojo for hosting me on VA Tourism Podcast!
The future funding of conservation is a big topic that requires discussion. What are your ideas? Feel free to share them in the comments below or send me a message.
Also, if you want to know how you can support projects on the ground in Uganda or East Africa, I work with many organisations who would love your support, however small. Just drop me a line and I will suggest a charity that fits your interests.
When can I travel to Uganda? Post-lockdown FAQs
Travel to Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda during the COVID-19 pandemic: frequently asked questions about quarantine, visas, immigration, Entebbe airport, international bus travel and borders.
[Please note: 1) I updated info on this post 30th October 2020 and 2) Entebbe Airport photos used in this article taken pre-pandemic].
Over the last few weeks, I’ve had a lot of questions from Ugandans, Kenyans and expats of different nationalities who want to travel to Uganda. I cannot promise everything on this page is up-to-date. You’re welcome to contact me directly, as the people below did, if you are unsure of anything.
- Do you want to travel to Uganda?
- Are you waiting for Entebbe Airport to reopen? [Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st]
- Are you applying for a Uganda or Kenya tourist visa online?
- Do you want to travel by air or bus between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya? [Although Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st, land borders with Rwanda have not reopened so there are no international buses. Buses between Uganda and Kenya resumed but Nairobi went into lockdown in March 2021 so buses between Kampala and Nairobi went back on hold].
- When will Uganda’s airport open again? [Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st]
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 1
Hi I want to travel to Kampala on 20th of August but I currently haven’t organized it yet. Must I have a work permit because am only going there for a project?
Leila, Kenya, August 9th 2020 in response to MASH-tastic – the muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi.
The Muzungu replied:
International bus routes between Uganda and Kenya are still closed [October 30th 2020] and Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport will not be open until mid-September at the earliest (according to a good source). [Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st]
If you are coming here to work or volunteer, you will need a work permit. You would normally be able to enter the country on a single entry tourist visa and then apply for your work permit however, one case varies from another.
For info, read how to apply for your Uganda visa online.
To contact Uganda Immigration directly, use their Facebook page. Before the pandemic, immigration would normally reply within 24 hours but they have reduced staff at the moment.
My feeling is that you will not be travelling on the 20th August but good luck and let me know how it goes! Safe journey.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 2
Hello: I’ve followed your blog since coming to Africa and it is highly informative and well done. I’m a U.S. businessman trapped in Nairobi on lockdown. You clearly have a feel for what’s going on in East Africa, so I had a hunch you might know something about the border travel situation. I was initially in Kampala for a month in October 2019 and then did a month of volunteer work in Nyanza en route to business in Nairobi. I’d hoped to be here briefly so I could return to Kampala to wrap up various issues before departing Africa. But here I still am. I’ve read news reports online saying there’s pressure on the Uganda government to reopen Entebbe. I’ve called Mash POA and EasyCoach who both tell me there’s no Nairobi / Kampala travel and they don’t know when it will resume. Do you have any notion or rumor that you might be kind enough to share?
Peter, Nairobi, August 7th 2020
The Muzungu replied:
Yes Peter, there is mounting pressure on the Ugandan government to reopen Entebbe International Airport. I am following developments closely and will let you know if I hear anything positive re the airport or land borders.
Sorry to hear that you got marooned in Nairobi. When President Museveni closed the schools, I made sure I raced back upcountry… and here I have remained since March. You might enjoy some of my #LockdownDiaries from Kibale Forest in Western Uganda.
Read my blog Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 3
Hello dear Charlotte, I am glad to hear despite these difficult times which the whole world is in a kind of depression, that you didn’t lose your positive attitude.
I am somehow happy for Uganda that it is not affected by Covid like the neighbouring countries. Hope soon the airport will start functioning again so that I can board a plane. Any idea when the airport is going to be available for us to fly back?
I wish you the best and thanks for your efforts keeping Uganda’s safaris, wildlife and tourism alive.
Sako, Beirut, August 7th 2020
The Muzungu replied:
The government said it would reopen Entebbe International Airport on August 1 (but that hasn’t happened). A lot of people are putting pressure on to reopen Uganda’s airport. I will let you know in case I hear of anything. Read my blog Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st.
Yes things are okay so far in Uganda (August 7th) and I’m very happy to be in Kibale Forest. Nature is keeping me positive.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 4
Thanks a lot for the updates and all the helpful information you have offered. Am planning to travel to Kampala in November just for leisure. Can that be possible with this Corona issue at hand? Any new updates please?
Monica, Kenya, 23rd August in response to MASH-tastic – the muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi.
The Muzungu replied:
Unfortunately it’s impossible to say what the situation is going to be like in November. As of this moment, I’m sure you are aware that Entebbe Airport and Uganda’s borders all remain closed. Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st.
However – once you get here – public transport around Uganda is operating but taking fewer passengers (for a higher fee of course!)
The number of coronavirus infections hit a peak yesterday [end of August 2020] with 318 new cases reported and there are rumours that Kampala may go into lockdown again. I spoke to several friends in Kampala today and they’ve all advised me to stay away longer as most people aren’t social distancing nor are they wearing masks properly, especially when you go downtown to the busiest areas. Let’s hope coronavirus peaks quickly and you are able to travel here in November 2020.
I would advise you not to make any travel plans until you can be absolutely sure it’s safe – and convenient – to travel. You wouldn’t want to get here and then spend all your time in quarantine (at your expense!) Currently there is 14 days quarantine for those (very few) people who are coming into Uganda (on special repatriation flights etc). [UPDATE 30th October 2020: you can enter Uganda with proof of a negative COVID-19 PCR test. For those who test positive, self-quarantine is advised in most circumstances].
You may also find these blogs helpful:
Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda. Published March 2020 and updated regularly with lots of health advice about COVID-19 / Coronavirus and many useful links.
Advice from the US Embassy in Kampala: Now is the time to take precautions. Published August 2020.
Uganda’s tourism private-sector demand airport reopening. Published August 2020.
Entebbe International Airport, Uganda, reopened October 1st 2020.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 5
Thank you so much for sharing your insights and experience.
Paolo, August 21st in response to What is the east Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide.
After all the craziness of covid has passed, I’m planning to visit Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya.
My questions are
1. How soon can I apply for an online East African Visa with Uganda as my first port of entry? Can I apply as early as three months before my planned departure from my home country?
2. With Uganda as the port of entry, how high is the success rate in obtaining an East African visa online? If an application is denied, what are the usual reasons for denial?
The Muzungu replied:
Let me advise you based on recent past knowledge. I spoke to someone in Uganda Immigration today and I know things are working really slowly at the moment so we are all going to have to be patient (and bear in mind things may not work the way they did pre-pandemic).
1. Yes you can apply three months in advance. That is the maximum.
2. Regarding the success rate, I can’t give you a figure. I think it’s pretty straightforward to get it approved, in fact I haven’t met anyone whose application has been denied. Once upon a time, Uganda (for example) would ask you to prove that you were planning to visit Rwanda and Kenya and would ask for itineraries or hotel confirmations showing ‘onward travel’ but that has not been happening recently.
When things were working normally, it would be quick to get tourist visa approval online (within one week). General reasons for a visa being declined are that you have not submitted all the forms that they have requested.
Hope that answers your questions. If not, ping me another message 😎
Kenya Travel Enquiry
How long does it take to get East African Visa via Kenya online?
Daria, August 5th 2020 in response to What is the east Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide.
The Muzungu replied:
I could not find an exact answer to your question but I have been in contact with tour operator friends in Kenya who shared this:
Note that: “Kenyan immigration is advising that all passengers requiring visa to enter Kenya need to apply online. Visa application on arrival into Kenya will also be done online. Cash payments for visas on arrival will NOT be allowed. Visa cards will however be accepted.”
Kenya High Commission in the UK issued a Communique on the resumption of international air travel to Kenya on 1st August 2020.
It states “All arriving passengers on international flights whose body temperature is NOT above 37.5° C (99.5°F); do NOT have a persistent cough, difficulty in breathing or other flu-like symptoms; have negative PCR based COVID – 19 test carried out within 96 hours before travel and are from countries considered low to medium risk COVID – 19 transmission areas shall be exempt from quarantine.
The communique lists “countries from which travelers will be exempt from quarantine” but (how up to date is that list?) Note that “review of countries will be undertaken by Ministry of Health on day to day basis… the risk profile of any country could change and therefore the status with regard to these clarifications and directives could also change.”
Do you have questions about travel to Uganda and around East Africa during the pandemic? Do you have advice or experiences to share? If you want the latest travel advice, feel free to post a comment here or contact me directly. Things change daily… #staysafe
Virtually edible! A food tour of Uganda
A virtual food tour of Uganda
Regular readers of Diary of a Muzungu know I’m always up for an adventure – and this one is in my tastebuds!
I was delighted when expat blogger Sarah ‘With a Smile’ Emery from sunny Singapore, invited me to take part in a virtual food tour. Here are some highlights of our interview about my experience eating different traditional foods in Uganda.
Sarah: What is your favourite traditional dish in Uganda?
The muzungu: “Katogo is popular, very filling and easy and cheap to prepare. The main ingredient is usually matooke (steamed green banana) or cassava or Irish potatoes, served with beans or beef. My favourite katogo combination is matooke with ‘g nuts’ (ground nuts or peanuts) and greens. Many Ugandans like breakfast katogo made with “gizzards” (not something I can stomach – no pun intended!) Katogo is served hot, normally in a bowl. It’s my kind of comfort food.”
Sarah: What is the most interesting food that you have eaten in Uganda?
The muzungu: “If you had told me 10 years ago that I would move to Africa and start eating insects, I may never have moved here! Insects – particularly cockroaches – were my biggest fear when I first moved to Uganda but now, I find myself eating – and LOVING – grasshoppers! Twice a year, when the rains are at their peak, the country has a glut of bright green grasshoppers or nsenene. At night, powerful lights attract the grasshoppers who are dazzled by the reflective glare of tin sheets and collected by the thousands.
Nsenene are peeled – just like prawns – by removing their legs and wings and then fried, often with onions. Grasshoppers give off a smoky flavour and once you start eating them, you may not want to stop. They’re delicious with an evening aperitif. They are high in protein and low in fat.
I haven’t tried them (yet) but enswa (white ants or termites) and lake flies are other Ugandan insect delicacies.”
Sarah: What is the worst food you have tried in Uganda and why?
The muzungu: “I was a vegetarian for many years and can’t imagine myself ever eating pig trotters. Friends say mulokony or kigere are quite a delicacy (“good hangover food”) but the sight of them, whether raw or cooked, is enough to turn my stomach.
When I first moved to Kampala, a young Ugandan friend introduced me to the traditional food of Western Uganda. The kalo (millet bread), served in a pretty woven basket, looked like raw dough and was served with a sour sauce derived from ghee. The dish is “an acquired taste”, shall we say, but even now, I can’t eat it.”
Sarah: What food and/or drink is a must-try for those who are visiting Uganda?
The muzungu: “The rolex is probably the country’s most talked about dish, particularly after it appeared on CNN. A rolex (think “rolled eggs”) is simply an omelette wrapped in a chapati, with the addition of sliced tomatoes and cabbage. The rolex was first made popular by Kampala’s university students. Nowadays, you can buy a freshly prepared rolex by any roadside. A few smart café’s in Kampala do ‘posh rolex’ with bacon or avocado but you can’t beat the original combo.
Read The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness!
Another institution is Uganda Waragi, a triple-distilled gin which goes down a treat with tonic. It’s a popular tipple with tourists and expats. Waragi is said to come from the words ‘war gin’ and was an import of the British. Local gin is made of bananas and stored in plastic jerry cans. It can be lethal (and is best avoided!)
Bushera millet porridge is another popular staple which I tried on Agartha’s Taste of Uganda experience. Millet is a common crop and the porridge is drunk all over the country but at Agartha’s we experienced the whole process from ‘farm to cup.’ Her home in Ishasha was a tasty stop-over on our food tour of Uganda.
Read How to be a Mukiga woman – meet Agartha!
When I lived in Kampala, the capital of Uganda, a favourite day out was eating fish (Tilapia or Nile Perch) on Lake Victoria. Sometimes you want somewhere swanky, but sometimes you just want to sit at the landing site and eat the freshest fish with your hands. Read A guide to eating fish on Lake Victoria.”
Sarah: Are there any dining customs a visitor would benefit from knowing prior to visiting Uganda?
The muzungu: “Many Ugandans eat with their hands but it’s okay for you to eat with cutlery.
Lunch can sometimes take a long time to arrive, depending on the restaurant. A busy local restaurant will have ready-cooked food that they will quickly plate for you. However, if you make a specific order, expect to wait a long time. Unless you’re eating somewhere fancy in Kampala or at a tourist lodge, it’s good practice to ask “what is in the kitchen” since what is on the menu may have no bearing on what is available! The annoying part is that the waitress may not tell you for 15 minutes that this is the case. This seems to happen a lot outside the capital.
The food tour of Uganda continues. Read “Lunch arrived squawking on a boda boda.”
Ugandans add a lot of salt when they cook so always taste your food before adding any. Ugandans eat big portions. Every meal is a big slab of food. By contrast, Brits have smaller plates of food but are more likely to snack between meals. We may also order a starter or a dessert. Ugandans will generally just eat one course. (If fresh fruit is served at a buffet, it is normally piled on top of the other food!)
Uganda is a country of 56 tribes. This means that the food culture differs from one part of the country to another. In the central region of Buganda, it is deemed rude to leave a guest looking at an empty plate so a waitress may rush to remove your plate as soon as you finish eating. Culturally, she is exhibiting good manners, but I don’t like being rushed. (A Brit like me feels like the waitress is clearing the table ready for the next guest!)
Ugandan food is plentiful. The country has a wonderful climate meaning that there are at least two harvests per year. It’s perhaps for this reason that Ugandans don’t finish eating everything on their plate.
Ugandan avocados are HUGE and the pineapples and mangoes are the sweetest! Every visitor to Uganda comments on the fantastic fruit and vegetables. However, most Ugandans are happiest eating heavy carbohydrates (which they refer to by the collective name of ‘food’) and meat. Forget the paleo diet, Ugandans will load up their plates with as many as five types of ‘food.’
Vegetables or salads seem to be a ‘by the way’ and associated with poverty for many people. The thinking goes that if you have real food (meat and ‘food’) you don’t need to live on the free stuff (vegetables) that you can grow in your shamba.
When you visit a Ugandan home, it’s customary to be offered something to eat or drink. Your host may get upset if you don’t accept anything. Sometimes there will be an accompaniment with tea; this is sometimes called an ‘escort.’ (Uglish is a Ugandan version of English that often makes me smile).”
Tell me: which traditional Ugandan foods have I missed? Which dishes are your favourites? Add a comment below 🙂
Now is the time to take precautions! Says US Embassy
Letter to U.S. Citizens in Uganda: Now is the Time to take Precautions!
The muzungu writes: This letter dated 7th August 2020 has been circulating among expats in Uganda but you don’t need to be American to take this letter very seriously 😉
Summary (but please read the whole article):
- We are now entering a new phase of the COVID-19 outbreak in Uganda.
- For each death you see on the news, there may be hundreds of infected persons linked to them who were never detected. If those infected persons are not wearing a mask and socially distancing, which most people unfortunately are not, then they are out in public right now and may be infecting other people.
- Kampala has a lot more cases of COVID-19 than are currently known.
- We’ve had “hotspots” of community transmission for several weeks now in other areas of the country, and will expect to see more.
- If you were not paying attention before because it seemed there was no COVID-19 in your area, PAY ATTENTION NOW. People who are infected may show NO SYMPTOMS – meaning that you could be a carrier and you wouldn’t even know it – and still transmit the virus to other people.
- Wear a mask whenever you go out of your house.
- Masks only work if everyone is wearing them, and wearing them correctly.
- Keep your hands clean. Carry a little bottle of soapy water if you don’t want to buy sanitizer.
- If you develop even a slight cough or a fever, if you realize you can’t seem to smell or taste things anymore, STAY HOME.
- COVID-19 is spreading right here, right now – don’t let it be you.
Dear fellow Americans:
I hope that each of you is well and staying safe. During this challenging time, I want to ensure you have the information that you need to stay up-to-date and make informed decisions.
Uganda has handled COVID-19 very well to date, but we are now entering a new phase of the outbreak. As many of you are aware, the Government of Uganda’s initial target for COVID-19 was to prevent, prevent, prevent, by closing the airport, testing people at borders, and quarantining travelers starting in March. These quick and decisive actions succeeded in largely preventing importation of COVID-19 into Uganda for far longer than most countries. After that, the goal was to delay, delay, delay. As more cases entered and a small number of unlinked cases were found, intensive efforts were put forth to trace nearly 100% of contacts of cases and stall the spread of the outbreak, buying valuable time to prepare the healthcare system for the inevitable influx of large number of patients.
Since June, the Government of Uganda has started to ease lockdown measures. We are now moving into an approach of manage, manage, manage (or, “flatten the curve”). We know now that there are many asymptomatic cases for each symptomatic one, and many symptomatic cases for each person who dies with COVID-19 disease. We have seen a handful of deaths in a very short time without seeing the increase in diagnosis of asymptomatic or symptomatic cases at the same time. What that means is that for each death you see on the news, there may be hundreds of infected persons linked to them who were never detected. If those infected persons are not wearing a mask and socially distancing, which most people unfortunately are not, then they are out in public right now and may be infecting other people. COVID-19 is in Kampala – possibly a lot of it.
Please let me repeat. Kampala has a lot more cases of COVID-19 than are currently known. They won’t show up on the daily press releases because there are not enough test kits to do widespread community testing (although there are intense efforts underway to bridge that gap). In this phase of the outbreak, we find out about clusters of patients when one gets sick enough to show up at a clinic, and that clinic knows to report that they have a possible case. For each sick patient who shows up at a clinic, there are many more who may not get very sick, but who can still spread the virus to others. In the phase we are now in, we will continue to have a lot of cases out there that we just don’t know about. And it is not only Kampala. We’ve had “hotspots” of community transmission for several weeks now in other areas of the country, and will expect to see more.
This is not unexpected. We knew that community transmission (identification of cases unlinked to other known cases) would eventually begin, and Uganda would start the upward climb in cases that nearly every other country has seen. We are now there. If you were not paying attention before because it seemed there was no COVID-19 in your area, PAY ATTENTION NOW. People who are infected may show NO SYMPTOMS – meaning that you could be a carrier and you wouldn’t even know it – and still transmit the virus to other people. That vendor you interacted with yesterday? The one who had his mask around his neck instead of over his face while he chatted with you? He could have given you COVID-19, and you could infect everyone you talk to before you even realize it happened. As we go into the fifth month since the initial cases were introduced into Uganda, it is safest to simply assume that everyone you meet is infected. This is not a call to panic, but an encouragement to return to the behaviors that will keep us safe. In this phase of increasing community transmission, it is up to each of us to protect ourselves, follow the guidelines, and do our part.
Wear a mask whenever you go out of your house. If you are infected, cloth masks protect other people from you. Cloth masks do not protect you from other infected people. Because of this, masks only work if everyone is wearing them, and wearing them correctly over the nose and mouth, whether or not they have symptoms. Even outside, if you are standing close to a person who is talking directly at you, that can be enough to transmit the infection. Keep your distance and walk away from anyone who doesn’t want to put on a mask before they talk to you. Wear your mask always, but to protect yourself you must make sure that everyone around you wears their mask also. In this outbreak, each person must do their part to keep everyone safe.
Keep your hands clean. Carry a little bottle of soapy water if you don’t want to buy sanitizer–it’s cheap and the soap kills the virus very well. Don’t touch your mask a lot, and don’t touch your face until you’ve washed your hands. Make sure everyone who lives in the same house as you also knows these important guidelines so they don’t bring the virus home to you and others in your household.
If you develop even a slight cough or a fever, if you realize you can’t seem to smell or taste things anymore, or otherwise feel like you might have symptoms of what folks call “flu,” STAY HOME. When symptoms first start, you won’t be able to tell if what you have is COVID-19 or some other more normal cold or ‘flu’, so play it safe and stay home. If you are feeling even a little sick, stay away from your family members as much as possible. Put a mask on even at home to protect others in your house. Wash your hands a LOT and clean the surfaces in your house a lot. If you feel any shortness of breath, or if your symptoms get worse, call the Ministry of Health on the toll free lines at 0800-100-066 or 0800-203-033 so they can direct you to the best location to receive care.
Stay safe out there. COVID-19 is spreading right here, right now – don’t let it be you. If we all stay home to the degree possible, stay distant, and make sure masks are being worn by everyone around us and our hands are clean, we WILL reduce the impact this outbreak will have on our families, our communities, and Uganda.
Thank you all,
Christopher Krafft, Charge d’Affaires, U.S. Embassy Kampala, Uganda
The muzungu adds: Are you looking for more coronavirus information in Uganda? Read my post that is packed full of practical tips, information and health advice. Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda. This post includes telephone numbers and links to many resources.
Are you working from home? Read my blog Coronavirus survival tips: how to work from home based on my many years doing exactly that!
Stay safe one and all 🙌
Uganda’s tourism private sector demands airport reopening
Anger and disappointment over continued Entebbe International airport closure set tone for private sector meeting.
This article was originally published on 05th August 2020 on ATCNews.org.
[NOTE: Scheduled flights to / from Entebbe Airport will resume on October 1st 2020.]
Uganda’s tourism, hospitality and aviation private sector stakeholders met at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel (4th August) to discuss an action plan vis a vis the continued closure of Entebbe International Airport and the ominous silence of government over this issue.
The only more recent mention about the airport closure came from none other than President Museveni who in a recent address to the nation said the airport would remain closed ‘until the situation abroad settles because there is so much chaos in some countries abroad,’ leaving everyone guessing when that might be given the raging nature of the pandemic at present in the United States, South America and countries like Iran.
Tourism in Uganda was in the past the leading foreign exchange earner and created hundreds of thousands of primary, secondary and tertiary jobs for Ugandans and the collapse of the industry since the initial lockdown of the airport was announced in late March, has driven companies to the brink of financial collapse and in many cases beyond.
Stakeholders have in the past repeatedly interacted with ATCNews over their plight and the publication has used every opportunity to highlight the fallout of this increasingly grotesque situation, when in particular neighbours like Rwanda and Kenya – both with significantly higher #COVID19 caseloads – have reopened their airports and started to welcome tourists back.
Following the meeting have the same stakeholders also dismissed the contention of aviation officials that the country must not rush into the reopening of the airport and that more preparations are needed, accusing them and the ministry responsible for sleeping on the job, while all around Uganda air transport has resumed – and in the case of Ethiopia never stopped at all.
One senior stakeholder also repeated earlier angry outbursts to ATCNews that national airline Uganda Airlines continued to be grounded, apart from a few repatriation flights – saying that government put a billion US Dollar investment at risk, which was paid for by the Ugandan taxpayers.
‘The airline did a remarkable job over the first 6 months of operation and captures market share at the expense of regional competitors. The announced new destinations like Johannesburg and Kinshasa just before the pandemic reached Uganda. Since end March is the airline now grounded but two Airbus A330 models ordered are being constructed right now in Toulouse. Those two aircraft will cost Uganda about half a billion Dollars when ready for delivery but in the meantime has the airline not earned a single shilling because the airport is closed.
How those responsible for this closure see Uganda Airlines re-entering the market when right now the main competitors run away with the business is anyone’s guess. I know the airline staff will pull out all stops to succeed but our own government is tilting the playing field. This is not just the case for the airline but for the entire tourism sector. We had a competitive advantage over Rwanda for gorilla tracking but that too has been lost. Rwanda is welcoming back tourists to the track primates and here in Uganda are primate tourism activities still suspended. The lower permit fees Rwanda has launched also go at our expense. I think it is once again proven that our government simply does not understand tourism and fails to appreciate how much the sector has done for the country, investments, tax payments, job creation and forex earnings. Shame on them!‘
Local television featured some of the meeting situations:
Others raised questions with ATCNews where all the international financial relief and support has gone, as the sector has not seen a shilling of it and remains starved of resources while in most urgent need of grants and long term soft loans to recover from five months of no income while shouldering all the expenses like rent, utilities and other monthly payments.
A top level private sector official from Kenya in the meantime also confirmed to ATCNews that their preparations for the reopening of domestic flights on the 15th of July and of international flights on the 01st of August was weeks in the making with private sector stakeholders cooperating with government and aviation officials, to vet and then set out to implement ICAO guidelines for the safe reopening of air transport.
‘We looked at ICAO’s set of new normal operating procedures, checked what IATA has been developing and as a result were all these measures put into place to allow for domestic and international flights to reopen. For Kenya Airways it was crucial to resume operations because the losses weighed heavily on them but also on other airlines based in Kenya. By today we have seen Lufthansa return to Nairobi but also British Airways, KLM, Air France, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Ethiopian Airlines and a few others and Ethiopian has also resumed flights to Mombasa. It was the level of early preparation towards reopening our skies which allowed us to meet our target dates.’
Similar comments were also received from a senior tourism official in Rwanda, who declined to be named however for not being an official spokesperson.
It is understood by ATCNews that government has formed a committee led by First Deputy Prime Minister Moses Ali but that announcement met with a level of disbelief by industry stakeholders as it indicates that not nearly enough preparation and planning had gone into the reopening of Uganda’s airspace for scheduled passenger flights compared with neighbours Rwanda and Kenya have accomplished.
ATCNews will continue to monitor the situation and update readers on progress made towards the reopening of Entebbe International Airport.
Diary of a Muzungu writes: ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News is written by aviation and tourism expert Prof Wolfgang Thome. Read my interview with him here The future of travel in East Africa: Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome.
The future of travel in East Africa: Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome
Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome: travel post covid-19 in Uganda and East Africa
With over 40 years’ experience working in tourism and aviation in Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, Professor Wolfgang Thome is uniquely placed to share his insights on the future of travel post covid-19 in East Africa and across the continent. If you want to know what is happening in tourism circles in Nairobi, Cape Town, the Seychelles or Lagos, Wolfgang is your man! (The above photo was taken at Kilimanjaro Airport in 2017. Pictured with us are fellow travel writers Solomon Oleny and Edgar Batte).
Travel has been impacted more than any other aspect of our lives. For some of us, that affects everything: our business, our lifestyle, our ability to spend time with close family. As we try and assess what the new normal looks like, I decided to ask Wolfgang his views. He is both a frequent traveller and in daily contact with airlines, hotels and tourism boards across Africa.
Overall, Uganda seems to be doing well with our approach to managing coronavirus. Do you think this will encourage tourists to travel to Uganda post covid-19?
Initially did Uganda indeed do very well based on the experience with past Ebola and Marburg outbreaks. Numbers kept stable but those responsible took their eyes off the ball with regard to truck drivers entering from Tanzania, Kenya and South Sudan. It took too long for them to take public input seriously and get off their high horses and institute checks before trucks were allowed to enter Uganda. What is needed is to restore public trust and confidence. ‘Beautifying’ numbers is a transparent ploy to make the country look better … yet, numbers are going up again, literally every day. We therefore have some way to go to demonstrate to potential visitors from overseas – when they are allowed to come in again without mandatory quarantine – that Uganda is safe and ready to host them.
What opportunities do you see for the Ugandan / East African tourism and travel industry post covid-19?
The main opportunity right now I see is in domestic tourism. Kenya has reached a domestic tourism percentage of over 55 percent (domestic tourists as a percentage of overall visitors). We in Uganda need to move towards such goals too. That said, discounting factors in Kenya for domestic tourists can reach 65 per cent off published rates and in some cases even more … so Uganda’s hotel and lodge operators need to take a leaf from that rebating level if domestic tourism is to truly take off. The present US Dollar rates quoted for hotels and lodges also need to go out of the window for Ugandans who want to pay in their own currency. Achieving this is possible but requires a major shift in mindset.
Read #MohammedHersi’s take on the future of the tourism industry – Post #COVID19 on Wolfgang’s website. Hersi is Chairman of the Kenya Tourism Federation.
Wolfgang, you are a speaker at a number of tourism events and exhibitions across Africa, notably AfriaDev in South Africa and Nigeria Travel Week. In your view, what is the future for big trade events like Magical Kenya and Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
I do regularly speak at major aviation and tourism events and trade shows across Africa. Unfortunately as of now, some eight such engagements have been postponed and cancelled this year. I do not see any major tourism event taking place this year and our hope is now based on 2021 and no secondary or tertiary Coronavirus infection waves.
When it comes to regional events does the Karibu – KiliFair excel as the largest such fair in Eastern Africa. The more local events like the Magical Kenya Travel Expo in Nairobi, the Swahili International Tourism Exhibition in Dar es Salaam or the Pearl of Africa Travel Expo in Kampala are focusing mainly on promoting their respective countries, which is of course why they were established. The big African tourism trade shows like the Africa Travel Week, which includes World Travel Market Africa, IBTM and ILTM, Indaba in Durban or We Are Africa in contrast promote many African safari and beach destinations and are therefore bringing larger numbers of exhibitors and trade visitors together from around the world.
What is the future for aviation travel post covid-19 in Uganda, East Africa and the African continent?
Brussels Airlines will resume European flights as of 15th of June 2020 and should be back in Entebbe, in combination with Kigali, from probably mid-July although no details are available, even for me, at this moment on how many flights they will launch with. The route to Bujumbura in Burundi is due to follow by mid-August. Kenya Airways intends to relaunch flights as of 8th of June and Safarilink and Jambojet, as soon as the Kenyan government lifts the movement restrictions in and out of Nairobi County, Mombasa County, Kwale County (Ukunda) and Kilifi County (Malindi). Please read my blog ATC News where I publish all the latest information about resumption of flights in East Africa and beyond.
At what point do you think we should reopen primate tourism and should there be limits?
While we wait for any scientific evidence on the possible virus transmission from humans to primates, is it better to err on the side of caution and not open tracking for gorillas, chimpanzees, golden monkeys and other primate species. As and when primate tourism reopens, will visitors obviously have to wear masks and may even need to be tested before being allowed to track. The timeframe for reopening depends on the advice of veterinarians and scientists and we ought to listen to their advice.
Will you be travelling this year? If so, where?
As I mentioned before, eight of my speaking engagements and attendances were cancelled while I cancelled two planned trips to Kenya between late February 2020 and now for obvious reasons: borders are still closed, air transport is not yet available and while the virus keeps spreading, in any country I may want to visit like Germany, Belgium, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana, I will not endanger myself nor my grandkids when I come home. This means that for all intent and purpose, regional and international travel for me will start again next year though I intend to use the time gained to step up travel across Uganda.
Tell us about a typical day in lockdown for you Prof.
A typical day includes my regular writing of articles and news items for ATCNews.org, the preparation of the daily #COVID19 updates at 6 am and 6 pm and, while the lockdown lasted, also a regular dose of humour under the headings #CoronaHumour #CoronaMemes.
During the day I spend as much time as I can find with my grandchildren. I take regular walks through the garden with my grandson in tow to show him birds, butterflies, insects, flowers and orchids and then devote time to cooking meals. If I cannot have a served Egg Benedict once in a while I just have to prepare them myself. What I have refrained from doing is participating in the tsunami wave of webinars and video conferences of which, when available, I read the summaries only to realise I did not miss a lot.
I hardly miss my once a week or once a fortnight trips into the city (apart from those Eggs Benedict at Kampala Serena Hotel and Mestil Hotel). I do check in regularly with key contacts via email or WhatsApp and so overall there was hardly any change in my day’s pattern compared to pre-lockdown days.
How will you proceed when the lockdown has been lifted?
Now that the lockdown has been lifted in a qualified way with the use of private vehicles possible again, I will nevertheless exercise utmost caution and restraint. My visits to the city will be far and few between while infection numbers in Uganda are still on the rise. I urge your readers to exercise similar caution and take extra care in their movements and interaction with others. Stay safe!
I hope to spend more time travelling around Uganda in the coming months. Note for example that Rainforest Lodge Mabira set to reopen on Monday 1st June 2020.
Who is Professor Wolfgang Thome?
Wolfgang is a prolific writer and blogger at ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News. He is an aviation expert and has worked at a strategic level in tourism across East Africa for over four decades.
As lockdown eases, I will relaunch my popular ‘Introduction to Digital Marketing for Tourism’ workshops where we discuss: how hotel staff can encourage guests to write positive TripAdvisor reviews and check in on Facebook; tips for using Instagram and Facebook Business Pages; video marketing, Instastories, YouTube, Facebook Stories and WhatsApp status updates; email marketing and how to work with bloggers.
How we travel post covid-19 remains unclear but travel we will – in time. A big thank you to Wolfgang for keeping us up to date on the future of travel in East Africa. Remember to check out his blog ATCNews.org and follow him on Twitter and Facebook.
We Asked for Fascinating Stories of Lockdown Abroad. And Wow, Did We Get Them
Fodor’s Travel writers around the world share what life is like under lockdown. (Scroll down to read how lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest looks – one year down the line.)
Fodor’s Travel asks What are expats around the world doing during Coronavirus?
“With guidebooks that cover every continent except Antarctica, Fodor’s has a network of writers that extends across the globe. Some of our writers cover the places in which they grew up, while others are constantly on the move. Here, we’ve asked some of our expat writers what it’s like to be a travel writer who can’t return to their home country.”
Kibale Forest, western Uganda
March 25th 2020: “Lockdown is imminent in Uganda. The airport and borders are closed, and all schoolchildren were sent home two weeks ago. Bars, restaurants, markets, churches, and mosques are closed until further notice (and ban-breakers are being arrested). However, few people are taking social distancing seriously and with crowded public transport and densely populated slums, we are bracing ourselves for the worst. Until a couple of weeks ago, most Ugandans thought coronavirus was a disease that only affected China until we had our first confirmed case last week—a 36-year-old Ugandan man who had traveled to Dubai.
I live off-grid on the edge of Kibale National Park; I am in an enviable position. However, we are scared too. If one of us is ill, clinics are a long drive away and poorly-equipped when we get there. Although we are in such a lucky position, deep in the village and with a good supply of food, we have lost all our business. The capital Kampala is six hours away and my travel via public transport is no longer an option.
My income is from tourism. Most of my clients are tour operators and lodges who have had virtually all their trips and bookings canceled. We have no accommodation bookings. I’ve been alarmed at the lack of information online in Uganda about coronavirus, so I have published a blog about coronavirus that collates the best (verified) information. I’m updating it on a regular basis in my attempt to bridge the information gap here. It’s given me purpose too. Overall, I’m doing okay emotionally, but my biggest worry is my 70+-year old parents in the UK; I have not seen them for over a year.
We are prepared for full-on lockdown here in Kibale Forest. I now exercise every day and try to sleep well (and act silly as often as I can manage!) We start home-schooling my nine-year-old nephew this week — there are challenges in every direction we look!”
—Charlotte Beauvoisin’s profile on Fodor’s.com
You can read the full article, with contributions from 20 travel writers from across the world, on Fodor’s Travel.
“When she’s not traveling around East Africa, you’ll find Charlotte Beauvoisin watching chimpanzees and birds from the balcony of her wooden cottage on the edge of Kibale National Park, Uganda. She’s lived in Uganda since 2009 and has updated the Uganda section of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.“
The Muzungu adds: I joke to Julia that we have ‘won the Lockdown Lottery.’ Every morning I walk the forest-edge trails of Sunbird Hill. It is quite something to have this all to ourselves and I treasure every moment: birding, butterfly-watching, and occasionally chimp watching too! There is so much to see, hear and learn about Kibale Forest, nature is throwing stories at me ‘thick and fast.’ Lockdown has given me the time to learn more bird calls, identify butterflies and Coleoptera (beetles), watch primates and teach my 9 year old nephew Dillon how to take photos. I know the trails like the back of my hand now…
I left the comforts of Kampala for a temporary sojourn on the edge of Kibale National Park. Two years later and I’m still based here! Since I’m frequently on the road – anywhere between Watamu on the Kenyan coast and Musanze in the northern province of Rwanda, lockdown in Kibale Forest – with no tourists – is in fact quite a treat, an opportunity to immerse myself in a beautiful corner of East Africa…
March 2021: Grateful everyday recalls a year of #LockdownDiaries – locked down with nature.
