Get yourself on a quad bike Safari, you’re in 4-a-wheelie good day out!
Quad bike Safari with Diary of a Muzungu and All Terrain Adventures
Have you tried quad biking in Uganda?
The format of the quad bike Safari is a real giggle!
After a wonderful Aussie welcome from Shirray, Herbert guided us through the safety procedures and warned us against: racing, running over kids, killing goats, the usual! Jinja’s quad biking safari setup is very professional with lots of highly visual printed information on quad biking day out “Do’s and Don’ts.” It’s tempting to race of course (but I knew Shirray and PK would never let me back if I did!)
Quad biking adventure part one – “get your kit on!”
Anyone can ride a quad bike and no previous experience is necessary – all training, guiding and safety equipment are provided by All Terrain Adventures.
It doesn’t matter what you wear for your quad biking Safari either, but I’d wear something light and loose, like leggings or a tracksuit. All Terrain Adventures provide quad bikers with big baggy all-in-one overalls. They also provide the Ugandan uniform favourite: gumboots. Alternatively, you can wear your own shoes – but forget wearing flip-flops or sandals (or need I say – stilettos?)
The Do’s and Don’ts of quad biking!
The pièces de résistance are the (compulsory) helmet and goggles – Biggles style! These guys have thought of everything: we even had branded bandanas to cover our mouths. (It becomes difficult to see who’s who once you’ve got all your kit on!)
Cameras were placed in protective plastic bags and the rest of our stuff was safely stowed away in the ATA office. Then you only have one choice to make: dust? or mud!!
You’ll get dirty as hell, whatever the season. In the dry season you’ll get dusty. In the rainy season you’ll get muddy. All part of the fun!
Quad biking adventure part two –“anyone for a round of mini-golf?”
The practice session saw us do a couple of laps around the training circuits including a circuit that runs through the Big Game Mini-Golf course – part of the All Terrain Adventures enclosure – that includes life size statues of the Big Five and other animals such as ‘an African Tiger.’
Mind out for the wildlife! Quad biking, Bujagali, Jinja
Herbert was the safari guide for our drive-yourself quad biking adventure. During the practice, more guides were on hand to show us how to handle the quad bikes, change gear, direct us, pull us back onto the track (!) They took plenty of photographs for us too, leaving us to concentrate on the serious business of scaring the hell out of ourselves.
Isla giving it some welly! Quad biking practice loop around the minigolf at All Terrain Adventures
Kids from the neighbourhood stood watching us race round the mini-golf. SAFETY TIP: this is not a good time to wave at the kids. You will need both hands on the handlebars!
After a few laps, and posing for more photos, Herbert led us out for the start of our quad bike Safari and freedom (to drive into a Bush in Isla’s case!)
Quad biking adventure part three – “Come! We go!”
I felt very proud of myself driving the quad bike. As a boda boda drove past, I kidded myself I’d graduated to being one of them. It felt quite good to be in charge of a bike in Uganda for once.
Bazungu Quad biking adventure through the Bujagali Bush of Jinja
A quad bike Safari is a really fun way to visit a typical Ugandan village. You won’t see any cars. You may only see one or two bicycles. What you will see are people planting crops, harvesting, spreading millet out in the sunshine to dry. We watched a lady slowly walk past with a huge jackfruit on her head. Another lady was carrying a huge bundle of firewood.
Off we went on our quad bike Safari through the villages around Bujagali, smiling and waving at the kids. (They couldn’t see our smiles through the bandanas of course and if you’re following in the cloud of dust behind another quad bike, which you probably will be, it’s not a good idea to have your mouth open anyway!)
The quad bikes are a great way to see Ugandan village life
A couple of the kids ran after us and tried to jump on the back of my quad bike. Herbert wasn’t having any of it. He was constantly looking out for us.
Quad biking adventure part four – “Eat my dust!”
We came to an abrupt halt in front of a piece of red and white tape strung across the marram road in front of us. Was it the scene of an accident? Was there some kind of drama ahead? We waited for a couple of minutes and watched as a new electrical pole was erected. (It’s good to know that even in ‘the back of beyond’, safety measures are in place when few people are watching).
An electrical pole bars our way on our Quad biking Safari
Back on the road a few minutes later, Herbert prepared us to go down a long, steep, rutted track towards the River Nile. It was very exciting and a test of our newly acquired skills. Navigating the ruts required concentration. Catch a hump of earth too fast, or at the wrong angle, and you might throw yourself off. I can’t imagine how crazy that section of track must be during the rainy season!
From Bujagali Falls to “Lake Bujagali” …
As our quad bike Safari continued along the shores of the Nile, Herbert told us the history of Bujagali Falls and pointed to where the famous rapids used to be. I visited Bujagali Falls – once “a spectacular series of cascading rapids which Ugandans consider a national treasure” – in 2010. In those days, the going rate to watch a young boy negotiate the Falls in a Jerry can was just 5,000 shillings (just over £1 / $1.50). The 2013 rate is a whopping ten times that amount! It’s a highly dangerous occupation, one that now takes place 15 km downstream, on the other side of the new Bujagali Dam.
My, these Bazungu looked HOT! Dusty Bazungu pause to pose in front of Bujagali Dam, Jinja
Uganda’s famous grade 5 white water rafting has changed little really and still remains the best in Africa. If you’ve never done the white water rafting in Uganda before, you will notice very little difference on the new course, below the new Bujagali Dam. I’ve rafted both sections of the River and I couldn’t tell the difference. (Both are equally scary – but you can’t visit Uganda without trying white water rafting at least once).
Of course ‘Lake Bujagali’ – as it is affectionately known now – is a much safer place for local people to do their washing.The rafting and adventure activity industries employ a lot of people along the banks of the River Nile in Jinja.
Behind this bandana is a beautiful woman – just aching for an ice cold Stoney soda!
Before heading back to base, Herbert took us to a dusty trading centre, where we ripped off our bandanas and necked down an ice cold ginger Stoney soda. We’d had a fantastic couple of hours and were grinning from ear to ear. I was washing the dust out of my hair for days!
Did you know Jinja is “the adrenaline capital of East Africa”?
From the Nile River Explorers Camp two minutes away from All Terrain Adventures, you can go kayaking, grade 5 white water rafting, horse riding, fishing, bird watching, and more. The NRE Camp is a great base for a few days adventure activities, a visit to the Source of the Nile and Jinja Town – or to just chill out and enjoy the view (and the great value food). I’ve stayed in the Safari tents overlooking the river a number of times. It’s a lovely place to lose a couple of days.
Suddenly, everyone in Kampala is talking about this weekend’s action: not the usual parties and nightclub events, but a hybrid solar eclipse, an event so rare that it only happens every few decades… and guess what? Northern Uganda will be one of the best places in the world to see it!
I can never throw a shoe box away – & finally it’s time to make use of one. Hybrid eclipse 2013, here I come!
The Muzungu first heard about the hybrid eclipse 2013 from an amateur astronomer tip, tap, typing on his keyboard 3410 miles (5488 km) away from Kampala – in Poltava in the Ukraine to be exact. Roman Kostenko – or Роман Костенко in the local Cyrillic script – first wrote to me on 19th February. He explained the uniqueness of the event that will take place this Sunday, November 3, 2013.
Photo courtesy of the Society of Astronomy Amateurs in Poltava, Ukraine http://astrosafari.com
In Roman’s words: “The solar hybrid eclipse occurs on November 3rd, along a narrow strip over the Atlantic Ocean and Equatorial Africa, from Gabon to Ethiopia. In Gulu, Northern Uganda, it will be late afternoon, 17:23, one hour before sunset.
The overall duration of the hybrid solar eclipse will be almost 2 hours, however the total phase is very short: 60 seconds in Gabon, 20 seconds in Uganda and 12 seconds in Kenya. Despite the short duration, this rare kind of hybrid total eclipse will offer us a brilliant glimpse of the solar corona and Bailey beads (outer parts of the Sun emerging between the lunar mountains).
Roman explained that although many people will go to Libreville or Gabon to see the hybrid solar eclipse 2013, “other eclipse chasers have been checking the weather, and will choose Uganda or Kenya, since there are much higher chances of clear skies in the areas north of Lake Albert in Uganda and west of Lake Turkana in Kenya.”
Basic viewing of the totality of the eclipse requires no more equipment than your own eyes, however special filtered ‘eclipse glasses’ are recommended to view the partial phases.
Roman advises: “It is EXTREMELY unsafe to view the eclipsed Sun with binoculars or telescope, unless they have an appropriate solar filter. I would never recommend to use any optical device to look at the Sun before you are confident that it features a properly installed solar filter.
P.S. As the day will turn into deep twilight in less than half an hour, and then back to daytime, and then back to night time (sunset), it will be very entertaining to observe how African wildlife responds to it.”
“Let’s see what the animals make of it….” says the Muzungu…
Roman is a member of the Society of Astronomy Amateurs in Poltava, Ukraine and their brilliant blog has been following their journey to East Africa. (Tip: click on Google translate for the English version of the site!)
“Eclipse chasing is an absolutely international hobby” he told me.
My online research – applied cautiously, Dear Reader – tells me that one of the simplest ways of safely viewing a solar eclipse is by making a shoebox pinhole camera. This enables you to see an image of the solar eclipse, rather than look at it directly. To make one, you will need: a cardboard shoebox, duct tape, knife or razor blade, a white sheet of paper, tinfoil, clear tape, needle or pin, solar eclipse.
Just look at the diagram for how to make a solar eclipse pinhole camera and follow these steps below…
Just copy the diagram for how to make a pinhole camera or follow these steps – or if you can’t be bothered, scroll down for the Muzungu’s Top 10 hybrid solar eclipse 2013 viewing do’s and don’ts.
1. Open your shoebox and cover any cracks or joins with duct tape, to make sure no light can enter your shoebox.
2. Cut a small hole (approx. 1 inch / 1.5cm across) in one end of the shoe box, near one edge.
3. Tape a piece of tinfoil over the hole.
4. Using a pin, make a hole in the centre of the tinfoil.
5. At the opposite end from the foil-covered hole, tape a small piece of white paper to the inside of the box,. The paper should be positioned so that light entering the box through the pin hole will hit it. This is where you’ll look for the sun.
6. Cut a 1 inch / 1.5 cm diameter hole in the box near the image screen (the white piece of paper), but on a different side of the box — the side next to the screen. This is your viewing hole; it must be positioned so that you can look through it at an angle and see the image screen.
7. You now have a pinhole camera. Go find that solar eclipse!
8. Sunday November 3rd 2013: hold the shoe box so that it lines up with its own shadow (meaning it’s aligned with light from the sun). Stand so that when you look through the viewing hole, you can see a tiny bead of light on the image screen: that’s the sun. During hybrid solar eclipse 2013, you’ll see the moon’s shadow pass in front of the sun.
[Information courtesy of @nattyover and www.livescience.com]
In the spirit of participation – admittedly, I was crap at physics at school – I decided I’d try and knock up a pinhole camera for you, but can I find duct tape late at night in Kampala? No. I shall track it down but not this evening… Anyway, you don’t want to get all the way to Northern Uganda and find the tape has come off your wonky old shoebox, do you?
So here are the Muzungu’s Top 10 hybrid solar eclipse 2013 viewing do’s and don’ts:
1. DO NOT use a mirror to view it – that will only do double damage to your eyes
2. The Ugandan Minister of Health’s briefing: “watch it through a black cavera (plastic rubbish bag!)”
3. Standard or Polaroid sunglasses are not solar filters and should not be used to stare at the Sun during the partial phases of an eclipse. You will damage your eyes permanently.
4. DO NOT use film negative.
5. You can make your own filter out of fully exposed and developed black-and-white film, but only true black-and-white film (such as Kodak Tri-X or Pan-X). Such films have a layer of silver within them – this protects your eyes.
6. If you want to observe the eclipse with binoculars or a telescope, you must use a specially designed solar filter on the front end (or Sun-side) of the instrument. (You think they sell them in Pakwach?)
7. Read this bit carefully: if you plan to use binoculars to view the hybrid solar eclipse, totality can and should be observed without a filter, whether with the eyes alone or with binoculars or telescopes. But the partial phases of the eclipse, right up through the Diamond Ring Effect, must be observed with filters over the objective lenses of the binoculars. Only when the Diamond Ring has faded is it safe to remove the filter. And it is crucial to return to filtered viewing as totality is ending and the western edge of the Moon’s silhouette begins to brighten.” If observing the Sun outside of eclipse totality without a filter is quickly damaging to the unaided eyes, it is far quicker and even more damaging to look at even a sliver of the uneclipsed Sun with binoculars that lack a filter.”
8. You can damage your video camera trying to watch the eclipse. Sunlight focused through a lens sets things on fire – do you want to set your camera on fire?
9. Welding goggles or welding glass are safe.
10. And the Muzungu’s personal favourite idea: watch the Uganda solar eclipse reflected in a river – doesn’t that sound romantic?
*DISCLAIMER* my few minutes Googling are not sufficient for me to be sure I’m sharing good advice. Misinformation abounds, and I’m worried I’m making it worse!
It’s always good to have a backup plan! It’s not like many/any? of us are ever going to have a chance to see a hybrid solar eclipse again … but it doesn’t mean you have to permanently damage your eyesight, so don’t get carried away with the moment and do something you will live to regret.
I’m so excited to be in Uganda for hybrid eclipse 2013 and I’m so excited for Uganda to be centre stage for the world, even just for a few moments. Northern Ugandans in particular truly deserve some good publicity.
My tent is packed and so is my cavera, so who’s coming with me? See you in Northern Uganda!
Diary of a Muzungu is proud to be a sponsor of Big Birding Day 2013, supporting the next generation of birders in Uganda.
Diary of a Muzungu is delighted to support Big Birding Day (BBD) Uganda
How many birds will you see at Big Birding Day 2013?
Bigger and better than ever, help us beat last year’s record – 290 birders in 58 teams, birding in 35 areas, recording 657 species (63% of the total species of Uganda recorded and an increase of 82 species from the 2011 record)!
The Muzungu with young birder Hope at Kasenge on International Day of the Safari Guide. Photo courtesy of Titus Kakembo and Uganda Tourism Press Association
This Friday 18th October is the official launch of Big Birding Day 2013 at the Uganda Museum in Kampala.
Diary of a Muzungu helped promote Big Birding Day 2013
The free to enter Big Birding Day race is a 24 hour competition this Saturday, 19th October, at dozens of sites across Uganda, involving birdwatching groups competing to score the longest bird species list in 24 hours. Birding teams are led by professionally trained guides and experienced bird guides from NatureUganda membership and UWA staff. Each group must have at least 2 members who are experienced bird watchers to confirm the species identification.
All birds seen and/or heard calling within these sites will be recorded (TICK!) A tally centre will be set up at NatureUganda to receive and check all records.
Each new bird sighting gets a TICK – but no cheating please guys!
The Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and National Forestry Authority (NFA) are offering FREE entry for all Big Birding Day participants birding in National Parks, Wildlife Reserves and Forest Reserves – but you need to register your team first. (Scroll down for the flyer and contacts below).
…And if you can’t make the Big Birding Day race this Saturday, why not join us for the Festival Saturday 26th October? Here NatureUganda will name the Big Birding Day winning teams at Kitante Primary School Gardens (behind the Uganda Museum). This free event is open to the whole family and will be a chance to learn more about birds and birding. There will also be live music, dancing, face painting for the kids and more…
What can you expect from the Big Birding Day 2013 Race?
Diary of a Muzungu is proud to be a sponsor of Uganda’s Big Birding Day 2013, supporting the next generation of birders. Birds, conservation, tourism
It’s not all about winning of course… this year I’m excited to be going to Mabamba Swamp, famous for its rare Shoebill Stork. I can’t wait!
Shoebill Stork, first seen by the Muzungu (though the mesh of its cage) at UWEC, Entebbe, Uganda
If you’re asking yourself, “why exactly does the Muzungu keep banging on about birds?” read “Why we should embrace Uganda’s Big Birding Day.” They delight me and enthrall me.
There’s a serious side to the event too and this year’s theme is: Birding, Our Livelihoods and Our Economy
Birdwatching can present significant economic opportunities for countries through sustainable tourism, says the United Nations environment agency. In Uganda, tourism is the number two foreign exchange earner (second only to remittances from Ugandans living overseas).
Did you know that worldwide, one in eight people earn their living directly or indirectly because of the tourism industry?
You only need to look at Uganda’s gorilla tourism and the way this single species has promoted Uganda internationally and helped fund other tourism initiatives and conservation across the country to see the huge potential for birding to develop Uganda’s economy. The Uganda Wildlife Authority, conservation organisations and tourist lodges work very closely with the community: training and employing local people.
Birding directly employs qualified bird guides and rangers, tour operators and sales consultants. Employment opportunities exist for land owners, farmers and producers who supply lodges, people who maintain tracks and trails, lodge and hotel staff and all the smaller businesses that support these: boda boda drivers, restaurants and shops. Birding tourism or ‘avitourism’ can thus become an economic and political force for both development and conservation.
Birding disproportionately favours the poor, since we find the highest number of bird species in remote areas. Thus, with the right investment in training and tourist facilities, birding can contribute to raising people out of poverty.
By supporting Big Birding Day 2013, the training of the next generation of birders and the investment in tourism infrastructure, you’re helping build the skills and opportunities of individual Ugandans, the economy of Uganda and protecting its wildlife and natural heritage at the same time … and you can have a great day out at the same time!
NatureUganda is a membership-based organisation that would not exist without your support.
Did you know you can renew your NatureUganda membership by mobile money? Just 5000 UGX for students and 25k UGX for annual family membership. Send to 0777147367
Do you like birds? Are you taking part in Big Birding Day this year? This annual event is growing every year. If you have ideas on how we can help develop BBD, do get in touch!
View of the Virunga Volcanoes from Nkuringo Gorilla Camp. Photo Robert Brierley
Nkuringo Gorilla Camp, in the far south western corner of Uganda, is the ideal starting point for: hiking volcanoes, hikes across Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to Buhoma on the northern side of the Forest, walks to Lake Mutanda and journeys across the Lake by dugout canoe towards Kisoro, mountain biking and bird watching. It is also a great place to stay if you plan to track any of Uganda’s Nkuringo, Nshongi, Mishaya, Kahungye or Busingye gorilla families.
Time was at a premium for us, so we opted for the ‘one-day circular Forest walk,’ starting at Nteko village and following the Ivy River trails and Kashasha River into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park.
Setting off on our one-day circular Forest walk, from Nteko village 1km from the Congo border, Bwindi Uganda
Walking Safari into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
As we walked downhill towards the River Ivy, our excellent guide Adolf listed some of the mammals we might see in the Forest: a Golden Cat, Civets, Serval Cats, Jackals, flying squirrels, Red tailed monkey, L’Hoest monkey, Black and White Colobus Monkey, Blue Monkey.
The Muzungu’s wildlife wishlist for the day: I’ll have a Blue Monkey, huge butterflies and some new ticks for my Forest bird list please. (A gorilla sighting would be pretty cool too…)
We stopped at a swampy area before crossing the river to enter the Park.
“One time we came here and the bridge had been washed away. We had to remove our clothes and walk across through the river,” Adolf told us.
“Even with clients?” I asked.
“Yes!” He laughed.
Well, we were in luck that day. There was a bridge! Crossing Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, armed policeman keeping a look-out for us
Safely across the water, Adolf welcomed us into the impenetrable forest. “If you take the wrong turning, you can get lost in the forest for seven days. It happened to someone I know from the village. They had to send out a search party for him.”
You’d need a powerful camera lens to fit the top and roots of a Huge Buttress Tree in one photo… Robert posing in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest derives its name from the Mubwindi swamp in the eastern part of the Forest; its full name being Mubwindi Nyamukari, named after a young woman who was ‘damped’ (drowned) by her father in the swamp. This was one of three local stories we heard of young women being drowned in swamps or waterfalls. Verdict: this was not the best place in the world for a girl to be born. In every story, it was the young woman who copped it every time while the man got away Scott free.
More BUTT than a Buttress Tree!
Back in the Forest, Adolf warned us to beware the vicious Safari ants and pointed out the trails where forest hogs had crossed. He also showed us Wild Pineapple, Wild Ginger and the beautiful red Erythinia abyssinia ‘Lucky Bean Tree.’
The beautiful red blooms of the Erythinia abyssinia ‘Lucky Bean Tree’
The pods of the Lucky Bean Tree contain bright red seeds. Local people believe that if you find one of these seeds and put in your pocket, you will be lucky for the whole day. The thorny structure of the tree is believed to ward evil spirits away too. The Lucky Bean Tree also has medicinal qualities: the ash from its bark can be applied to burns.
“I know it sounds like a silly question, but what does a Blue Monkey look like?” asked my friend Robert.
I never did hear the answer, as we were distracted trying to identify a bird – that turned out to be an enormous cricket!
Our guide Adolf holds a Wild Pineapple seed up for the camera
Encounter with a Silverback
Adolf was a gem and really made our trip. He recounted the story of the day he was called from Nkuringo to Buhoma, which involved him crossing through the middle of Bwindi Forest.
“As I was moving, we came across a group of 19 gorillas sitting on the track. In the middle was the Silverback gorilla. I had a big stick and I stood back, watching him, and moving very gently.
The Silverback started snapping branches on either side of the trail.”
Adolf imitated the low pitched growling of the Silverback. The other gorillas joined in, displaying sounds of annoyance at having been disturbed.
“I didn’t want to turn back. Clients were expecting me in Buhoma.”
“Couldn’t you just wait until they moved?” I asked him.
“It would have been dark by then in the Forest. It was already 6 o’clock in the evening.
The Silverback came towards me with his mouth wide open, thumping his chest, screaming at me!
I had to walk backwards, slowly but still facing him. The Silverback mirrored my pace. I took two steps, he took two steps… then I took off running!”
“Was he chasing you?” I asked.
“Yes!” answered Adolf.
“I turned my stick at an angle and the Silverback thought I was going to hit him.” (Adolf imitated the gorilla covering his head with his hands as if to protect himself).
“After some time, the Silverback slowly walked back to his family. I managed to get out of the Forest by 8 o’clock. It was completely dark by then. I slowly walked back towards where the gorillas were and walked around them. It was the Nkuringo family of gorillas.”
Just look at this cutie! The Muzungu’s first encounter with Uganda’s Mountain Gorillas was in 2010 when I trekked to see the Habinyanja group at Buhoma
At that point, the Muzungu decided to play it safe and rethink her wildlife wishlist for the day and was very happy to settle for some birding highlights that included:
Brown Throated Wattleeye
White Eyed Slaty Flycatcher
Paradise Flycatcher
Black Billed Touraco
Dusky Long Tailed Cuckoo
Each new bird sighting gets a TICK
The total tracking time was around six hours, in which we covered 17.5 km (most of which seemed to be uphill!) Our steadfast guide Adolf paced our walk just right and I thoroughly enjoyed all of it, even the steep bits!
Don’t worry Ma, they didn’t really leave me wandering about on my own in the Impenetrable Forest … de Muzungu crossing one of the many wooden bridges criss-crossing through the Forest
(They don’t call me Tail End Charlie for nothing…) Frankly, the boys would have got round a lot quicker without me!
It was as we did our final ascent: “we’re almost home, just another 7km, mostly uphill” Adolf cheerfully advised us, that we came across a Lucky Bean Tree, right next to our path.
Guess which Lucky Bean got to keep it?
; )
Local women carrying handwoven baskets along the vastly improved A roads between Kisoro and Mbarara, south western Uganda
An alternative itinerary that really appeals to me is from Kisoro: 90 minute walk to Lake Mutanda, followed by a 2 ½ hour dugout canoe trip across the Lake north to Rwajenje. (No need to worry about overdoing it, the tour includes: a comfy seat, lifejacket and a man to paddle you, while you take photos of the volcanic peaks reflected in the water of the lake). Back on land, it’s a 9 km / three hour walk following community trails up to Rubuguri Junction, where you can be picked up for the final 10km uphill to Nkuringo Gorilla Camp.
About Nkuringo Gorilla Camp
Welcome to Nkuringo Gorilla Camp, Bwindi, Uganda
Where to start? A word about the view from Nteko Ridge:
Firstly you’re at the highest point, so there’s nothing between you and Bwindi’s lush rainforest for miles left and right, on one side of the hill and a staggering EIGHT volcanic peaks on the opposite side of the hill.
Volcanoes and rainforests have their own unique weather patterns so the visibility can’t be guaranteed. For me though, that’s half the fun, waking up in the morning looking out the window and wondering “what will I see today?” If you’ve never seen a rainforest before, you must visit Bwindi Impenetrable Forest: it’s incredibly dense and incredibly green. BY HECK, THERE ARE A LOT OF TREES. The air is pure and the National Park has almost unimaginable biodiversity. I’m tingling, just remembering it all.
View from Nkuringo Gorilla Camp. Photo Robert Brierley
We ate very well at Nkuringo: a four course dinner both nights. The onion soup and pumpkin soup deserve a special mention and the freshly baked bread and rolls were wonderful. Vegetarian options can be catered for but should ideally be booked in advance.
Wine is purchased by the bottle, not by the glass as is available some places. Good quality wine is available for approx 60-80,000 shillings /bottle. The camp does allow you to bring your own, if you prefer. Drinks are reasonably priced e.g. a tot / measure of Uganda Waragi is just 1500 shillings.
It can be cold up in the mountains, particularly at night (no mosquito nets needed – hooray!) Thick blankets are put on the back of dining chairs, in case you feel the chill. On our first night the Lodge also provided a charcoal brazier full of burning embers in the dining area. It made quite a difference. There’s a fantastic campfire area too. The fire can quickly be lit or rekindled as needed. It was a treat to get into bed with a hot water bottle, provided by the camp.
Nkuringo Gorilla Camp is expanding
Currently there are two self-contained en suite cottages, each with a private verandah for incredible views across to the eight volcanic peaks (visible on our second morning). Two more of these self-contained cottages are being built.
My cottage at Nkuringo Gorilla Camp. Photo Robert Brierley
Bedroom in one of cottages at Nkuringo Gorilla Camp. Photo Robert Brierley
The six Virunga Terrace rooms each has a verandah too (although they can’t compete with the spectacular views from the cottages). Bathroom facilities are shared on the Virunga Terrace. The new showers and flushing toilets are almost ready for use. The decor throughout the camp is beautifully done, with great attention to detail. Everywhere is very clean.
I liked the look of the Verandah Terrace rooms at Nkuringo Gorilla Camp
‘Lazy camping’ is at the highest point of the camp – and has the best views to wake up to! Each fixed tent has two single beds.
Water is at a premium – the camp sits on a ridge 700m above the Kashasha River – but don’t worry, you can still have a hot shower! The Camp staff boil water for your shower so they may need some notice to get it ready for you.
A little electricity is provided through solar (not the sunniest part of Uganda) backed up by kerosene lamps and the generator, which is available for charging phones in the evening. The Camp advise visitors bring extra camera batteries or a charger to use in their Safari vehicle.
Rainwater is harvested from every available surface. Lodge owner Robert Brierley is hard at work installing a huge underground water tank, which should make life a lot easier for the camp staff in the not too distant future. (Currently water has to be brought in by truck during the dry season).
Rob advised us that tracking Nshongi, Mishaya, Kahungye or Busingye gorilla families involves a 23km, 55 minute drive to Rushaga.
How to arrange your walking Safari
Walks can be arranged through the Nkuringo Gorilla Camp or through Nkuringo Walking Safaris, for very reasonable rates. Everything can be customised to your physical fitness and interests.
Prices for the cottages with private en-suite bathrooms and Virunga Terrace rooms with shared bathroom toilet facilities can be found here. ‘Lazy camping’ includes shared bathroom and toilet facilities. Bed and breakfast, half-board and full board options are available for all types of accommodation.
DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. I was lucky enough to be given two night’s free stay and a walking safari in return for this blog post. For more information, read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions.
Were Toto right about Africa? Had they even visited Africa?
It’s been ages since I published a blog, hasn’t it Dearest Reader? Travel, IT problems, work commitments, the death of my beloved Baldrick – and plain old exhaustion – have taken their toll… but de Muzungu is back on form. I hope you can keep up?
Sunshine – and the promise of an evening filled with talk about Uganda and birds (and possibly even a sneaky little Uganda Waragi) – followed a captivating day at the UK Bird Fair. Driving along in evening sunshine, I follow Roger (driving the wrong way!) in his little red car.
I switch on the radio.
“Who would you like the request for?” Asks the DJ.
“Please play it for me and my husband who are going on Safari in Kenya this weekend.”
Negative African stereotype no. 1:
– The Caller pronounced it “Keeeenya,” the old colonial way.
“Sounds like the ‘holiday of a lifetime’!” Says the DJ.
“We’re taking a drive across the Rift Valley, then to the beach in Mombasa, hoping the pirates from Somalia don’t get us.” (The DJ agrees that being kidnapped by pirates would not make for a good holiday of a lifetime. Memory of a lifetime flashing before you, maybe!)
Negative African stereotype no. 2:
– Visiting the East African coast necessarily involves Somali pirates.
Negative African stereotype no. 3:
– We’re lucky that we know the Caller is going to Kenya, not just any old African country. She has no idea where in Keeeenya she’s actually going for her Safari.
“Where did you spend your honeymoon?” Asks the DJ.
“Cornwall,” she replies. (South West England). “Nothing to hunt there!” She jokes.
Negative African stereotype no. 4:
– Going on Safari equates to hunting animals.
The DJ corrects her: “I don’t think you’ll be hunting animals on Safari. We don’t do that anymore.” (Actually, there is limited, regulated hunting on some Safaris in Africa but the vast majority of holidaymakers just come to shoot with cameras).
“And what song would you like me to play for you Caller?”
“Africa” by Toto.
Negative African stereotype no. 5:
“Africa” by Toto.
I confess: I can’t help it, I love singing along to the song – perhaps because I’ve heard it a gazillion times.
But… it does seem a bit naff to be listening to it in Uganda – though God knows we hear it at least once every night if we’re at a local bar. Toto’s ‘Africa’ was released in 1983, here’s the video.
**Scroll down to find out what Toto’s Africa is really all about!*
I hear the drums echoing tonight
But she hears only whispers of some quiet conversation
She’s coming in 12:30 flight
The moonlit wings reflect the stars that guide me towards salvation
I stopped an old man along the way
Hoping to find some old forgotten words or ancient melodies
He turned to me as if to say
“Hurry boy, it’s waiting there for you!”
It’s gonna take a lot to drag me away from you
There’s nothing that a hundred men or more could ever do
I bless the rains down in Africa
Gonna take some time to do the things we never had
The wild dogs cry out in the night [the Muzungu: that’ll be the street dogs running amok!]
As they grow restless longing for some solitary company
I know that I must do what’s right
Sure as Kilimanjaro rises like Olympus above the Serengeti [the Muzungu: hmmm? geography!]
I seek to cure what’s deep inside
Frightened of this thing that I’ve become [the Muzungu: not a good lyric writer, I’m telling ya!]
It’s gonna take a lot to drag me away from you
There’s nothing that a hundred men or more could ever do
I bless the rains down in Africa
Gonna take some time to do the things we never had
Hurry boy, she’s waiting there for you
It’s gonna take a lot to drag me away from you
There’s nothing that a hundred men or more could ever do
I bless the rains down in Africa
Gonna take some time to do the things we never had
The Muzungu’s having mixed feelings now about singing along to Toto’s song ‘Africa.’ What a patronising load of crap.
So, Dearest Reader, apparently “this song tells the story of a man who comes to Africa and must make a decision about the girl who comes to see him. He is enamored with the country [Africa is a country is it?] but he must leave if he is going to be with her.”
Toto keyboard player David Paich wrote the song, and explained: “At the beginning of the ’80s I watched a late night documentary on TV about all the terrible death and suffering of the people in Africa. It both moved and appalled me and the pictures just wouldn’t leave my head. I tried to imagine how I’d feel about if I was there and what I’d do.” Paich had never been to Africa when he wrote the song.” [You don’t say!]
Jeez what did I start? I wish I hadn’t Googled this. What a depressing load of uneducated rubbish.
There’s so little exposure of the many wonderful, beautiful, talented and extraordinary things happening right now on this continent. Writing Diary of a Muzungu is my minuscule, personal attempt at trying to combat some of the many negative perceptions and untruths about Africa.
Are you (still?) a Toto fan? Does Uganda fit your idea of ‘a holiday of a lifetime’?
Yes or no? Either way, I’d love to hear your thoughts!
It was with great excitement that I travelled to Rwanda to attend the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony. This event is strictly by invitation only so the Muzungu was honoured to be invited by the Rwanda Development Board, thanks to my friends at The Gorilla Organization (TGO), a British charity whose dedicated international team pull out all the stops to protect the Mountain Gorillas in their native forest habitats straddling the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
As we drove uphill towards the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony website, the roads were lined with children and young people all walking in the same direction, eager to see the pop stars descending on Kinigi for the ‘Festival of the Gorillas.’
A magical place indeed. The volcanic peaks of the Virungas, approaching the site of Kwita Izina, Festival of the Gorillas
We sat in the ubiquitous white plastic seats and waited for the show to begin. Every few minutes there was an excited cry from the crowd as another celebrity joined the throng. All we could see was a sea of black heads, just visible above the safety barrier. The kids were gathered for the pop stars of course – there was a huge cheer as popular singer Rastaman arrived – we only hoped they would leave the gorilla naming ceremony as conservationists too.
Kwita Izina is hugely popular with local children gorillas Rwanda
One thing is for sure, one way or another, the majority of these young people will benefit from the gorilla tourism industry, the flagship product for Rwandese tourism. Five per cent of the revenue from tourism is invested in communities living around Rwanda’s national parks. This investment is helping change behaviours, changing once-poachers into protectors of the gorillas and wildlife and habitats in general.
Children flocked to take part in the Festival of the Gorillas
The Rwandese Prime Minister welcomed “ambassadors, friends of Rwanda and distinguished guests – and not forgetting the very important residents of Musanze” to Kwita Izina 2013.
Half of Kigali, representatives from Nairobi, Kampala and 61 journalists from across the world made their way to this small town in the Land of a Thousand Hills for the ninth annual conservation celebration. Not a bad show for a small country the size of Wales.
A smiling Rwanda Development Board ranger welcomed us to Kwita Izina 2013
Traditional dancing from Rwanda’s National Ballet was a delight. Kwita Izina 2013
Traditional dancing from Rwanda’s National Ballet was a delight. Reggae artists Dr Claude and King James went down like a house on fire! I was happy to get on my feet and dance by then. Goodness knows the foothills of the volcanoes are a lot cooler than Kampala. The Muzungu should have worn socks!
Jillian threw a Gorilla Organization frisbee into the expectant crowd of festival goers. Did she get it back…?
The lady MC reminded us that “while we are here to celebrate Rwanda’s gorillas, you can see how much more Rwanda has to offer.” Well organised, professional and a fun day out, I was very impressed by the whole setup and the global ambition of this event.
Audience participation is a key feature of Kwita Izina. Amongst the international celebrities invited to name the gorillas were the American actor Isaiah Washington; the Japanese Ambassador to Rwanda; actors from Nigeria and the Netherlands; the economist Jeffrey Sachs and Secretary General of the UN World Tourism Organization, Dr. Taleb Rifai. You can watch the highlights of the 2013 Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony here.
Each gorilla was named, in English and in Kinyarwanda, to claps and murmurs of approval from the audience. The first baby gorilla to be named was Icyamamare Maktub or ‘Rising Star.’ I liked the name Isimbi ‘Shining Pearl’ said to “represent the shining light of Africa: Rwanda. We look forward to shining the light on tourism in Rwanda.”
Emmanuel, looking very cool in his traditional costume, was honoured to name a gorilla at Kwita Izina 2009
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an opportunity to publicly thank the conservationists closest to protecting these great apes.
In 2009, The Gorilla Organization’s Rwanda Programme Manager Emmanuel was invited to name one of the gorillas.
The Gorilla Organization’s Jillian Miller at Kwita Izina 2009 – looking very glam in her Kwita Izina attire
In 2009, the UN Year of the Gorilla, The Gorilla Organization’s Executive Director Jillian Miller and Ian Redmond O.B.E. (Ambassador for Year of the Gorilla and now Chairman of TGO) were invited to take part in the gorilla naming ceremony. Jillian’s gorilla was named ‘Everlasting’. Ian’s gorilla was named Umuganda meaning ‘working together.’ You can watch Ian Redmond’s UN Year of the Gorilla speech at Kwita Izina here.
Putting on the traditional costume and being part of the show sounded great fun!
Ian Redmond O.B.E. Chairman of The Gorilla Organization at Kwita Izina 2013 with Allison Hanes of Art of Conservation
Audience participation is not just reserved for the celebrities: everyone was handed a sheet showing photos of the new baby gorillas, so we could write down the new names as they were read out.
The printed photos and list of new baby gorillas make the event fun and educational. Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda. (Can you read the Muzungu’s handwriting?)
“It’s a bit like playing bingo!” Jillian joked.
The Kinyrwanda gorilla name ‘Ubukerarugendo’ translates as ‘the early travellers – who woke up early to take a trip.’ “You could say this is the first word for tourism and represents the importance of tourism in Rwanda” said the Secretary General of the UN World Tourism Organization.
What is Kwita Izina?
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an idea based on the Rwandese tradition of inviting the community to name a newborn child. In Rwanda, it is customary to delay naming a child until some of its characteristics are known. (If you look through some of the names of the 161 gorillas named since Kwita Izina started, many give an insight into the individual gorillas’ temperament and family history). The community join together and party to celebrate this new life.
The Gorilla Organization was previously known as the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. This painting of Dian hangs in the TGO office in Musanze, Rwanda.
Rosette Rugamba, the creator of Kwita Izina, with Jillian Miller of The Gorilla Organization, Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda
I asked Rosette her view on the international success of Kwita Izina?
“When we started this event we had a big vision: to make sure that gorillas continue to be recognised but also to help, in a big way, to change the image of Rwanda. As much as we are honoured to be the custodians of these wonderful creatures, these animals belong to the whole world. That is such a huge responsibility.
So we created a public event. The world needs to watch over us to make sure that we’re making this happen and to celebrate the birth of the gorillas. We continue to be held accountable and the international community realises they have a role in the success of gorilla conservation too.
There was always a concern that tourism might have a bad effect on conservation but it’s proven that responsible tourism can actually contribute to conservation.
Nine years after the creation of Kwita Izina, I think we have come a long way in achieving our objectives. The government is still committed, and has been right from the start.
This is the format of an event that brings in everybody. When we held the first Kwita Izina, 94 nationalities had come to trek the gorillas in Rwanda. Now, I think you could say the whole world has been: someone from every country has trekked the gorillas in Rwanda. Gorillas are symbolic creatures and Rwanda is just lucky.
“I look forward to next year” said Rosette, “10 years of Kwita Izina – a decade!”
This painting of a gorilla family hangs in The Gorilla Organization office in Musanze, Rwanda. The TGO Resource Centre is open to the public
For a premium, visitors to Musanze’s Hotel Muhabura can now stay in cottage number 12, where Dian Fossey regularly stayed on her visits down from the mountains. Dian Fossey’s cottage has been maintained to ‘honour a life dedicated to gorilla conservation.’
A blog post about dating in Uganda will not suffice. This material fills at least one book!
Ugandan men can be handsome and very charming.
They know how to tell women what we want to hear. Delivery of promises is an altogether different issue!
I’ve had more marriage proposals in Uganda than in the whole of my life.
I’ve been promised love, marriage, children (natural and adopted), meeting the family and even a house overlooking Lake Victoria!
And what have I got? My fingers burned – more than once …
I love the idea of having a relationship with a Ugandan man but the reality of mixed relationships is harder than I thought it would be, for many reasons.
It’s quite usual for your male Ugandan suitor to be:
married
living with someone
a father of many children
simultaneously with any number of girlfriends
– or all four!
Bare-faced lies are very common.
Still, Muzungu ladies are very popular and we all like attention don’t we 😉
Mixed Muzungu Ugandan relationships can be challenging. How to date a Ugandan. Dating Uganda
Make your own mind up ladies but don’t believe everything you hear. Enjoy the moment, as that’s probably all it is, despite what they say. Just don’t take it too seriously – and insist on condoms every time! Yes I’m being explicit …
This is a guide to taking your dog from Uganda to the UK, based on the personal experience of Adelaine Williams, an expat resident in Uganda. Much of this information will be relevant to international pet shipping to other countries but do check with the relevant authorities first. Addy’s dog’s name is Prince, making his full name ‘Prince Williams.’
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers will know, Uganda has made me a big fan of dogs. I’d often wondered whether I would one day take my recycled street dog Baldrick to the UK from Uganda. Tragically, he had an accident, just around the time Addy emailed me this guide. I feel very sad that Balders and I will never make this journey together, but such is life. Like Prince, Baldrick was a rescue dog from the Uganda Society of the Prevention of Cruelty of Animals USPCA.
DISCLAIMER: this post was published in 2013 so we can’t guarantee all info is still uptodate. However, I do add small updates in the comments section.
Coming to Uganda gave me the chance to have my first dog, Baldrick, my partner in crime in many of my blog stories. Here are some of my favourite moments. More map ideas can be viewed on the Uganda Photo Souvenir Map Facebook page
Coming to Uganda gave me the chance to have my first dog, Baldrick, my partner in crime in many of my blog stories. Here are some of my favourite moments. More map ideas can be viewed on the Uganda photo souvenir map Facebook page
Addy kindly agreed that I could add her experience to Diary of a Muzungu as I know many people, particularly expats in Uganda, will find her experience invaluable. My dog trainer friend Ronald Kyobe of A to Z Mobile Dog Training Unit, Kampala is another great source of advice on anything to do with dogs in Uganda.
Addy writes:
My way is not the only way. A lot of my decisions were based on cost, not ease. Please note that details on taking pets to the UK from Uganda should be verified according to UK law on the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) website. It should be noted that law and policy have changed frequently over the past year. CHECK THESE DETAILS!!! As such the author is not liable for any misinformation given in this guide.
Taking your dog to the UK. Prince Williams waiting to check in at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
Taking your dog to the UK. Prince Williams waiting to check in at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
How to take your dog from Uganda to the UK
Start the process early:
I found that it took many months to organise taking Prince back to the UK
Insert a microchip:
The vet should be able to tell you which type of microchip is best.
Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) recommend (but this is not compulsory): ISO (International Standards Organisation) Standard microchips meeting specifications 11784 or Annex A of ISO Standard 11785 are used.
Register the microchip:
Register your microchip on the PETtrac UK Microchip Database www.pettrac.co.uk/owners. You also have to pay for this process. They will send you a certificate in the post. You will need to get this sent to you in Uganda. I managed to do this when I was in the UK for a visit. I’m not sure if it’s a legal requirement to certify the microship but I found the certificate was regularly checked on my journey home.
Vaccinate your dog against Rabies:
The dog should be vaccinated against Rabies after the microchip is inserted.
Make sure you keep the dogs vaccination records. Note: if just one of the vaccinations is given a day late, that may cause a problem.
I used a combination of Dr Alex ex-USPCA (tel +256 772433054) and Dr Berna from the veterinary clinic in Mutungo. I would recommend them both.
Wait at least 21 days:
After the micro-chipped dog has completed its first Rabies vaccination course, you need to wait at least 21 days before you and your dog can fly. Dogs are not allowed to fly until after this period. Ideally wait for one month.
Take your dog to the vet for a blood test:
After a minimum of 21 days, you can take the dog to the vets for a blood test to demonstrate that the dog’s Rabies vaccination has sufficiently taken. The vet will take a blood sample and send this off to South Africa for analysis.
Pay for the blood test:
The testing lab in South Africa will send you an email to say that they have received the blood sample. They should give you a reference number. When you receive this you must pay the lab in South Africa the required fees via bank transfer. Do not lose this reference number.
Rabies serum neutralising antibody test report – your dog will not be able to travel without this certificate. Carry it with you.
Rabies serum neutralising antibody test report – your dog will not be able to travel without this certificate. Carry it with you.
Your dog will not be able to travel without this certificate. Carry it with you in hand luggage during the flight.
Prepare for the flight:
If you are flying with your dog there are certain things you will need, or I would recommend (especially if you are going to take the route to the UK I took, which involved a ferry transfer:
An IATA approved pet carrier. (This is essential. You won’t be allowed to travel without it).
Two water bowls that attach to the door of the carrier (Essential. You won’t be allowed to travel without these) .
A blanket that the dog is familiar with (to reassure your dog when it is in the carrier).
Special fleece travel blanket. (If the dog goes to the toilet in the carrier, the urine seeps through to the bottom but the top stays dry so the dog is not sitting in urine during the flight).
Dog treats.
Muzzle (The flight may cause even friendly dogs to be in a bad mood).
A short lead / and or a lead that attaches to your waist (really handy in Amsterdam airport!)
Harness (Prince is huge – this helped me keep control of him in the airport).
Ice cubes for drinking water. (Put them in a bowl at Entebbe airport. They are less likely to spill than water).
Marker pen. (I wrote my contacts direct onto the carrier).
Doggy bags.
A bottle of water.
Plastic ties (in case of lost screws on the carrier).
Taking a dog from Uganda to UK. How to measure your dog for a pet carrier. Courtesy of http://www.animalinstinct.co.uk
Taking a dog from Uganda to UK. How to measure your dog for a pet carrier. Courtesy of http://www.animalinstinct.co.uk
Getting the right dog carrier was probably the hardest task for me, especially as Prince is a giant sized dog. Some of the vets in Uganda occasionally import carriers but the giant sized ones are hard to find. Allow plenty of time for this. Incoming shipments aren’t regular and the carriers are taken fast. I have heard Belgium Airways sometimes sells them.
I imported a secondhand dog carrier from the UK because I couldn’t guarantee finding one in Uganda in time. I paid £100 for it plus delivery to Uganda.
There are not many companies who will allow individuals to ship personal goods by air freight. I could not find anyone at Heathrow that would charge a reasonable amount. In the end I used a company based at Birmingham International airport called Aramex (UK) International Courier Lt, tel +44 121 782 2882.
The carrier flew on Emirates. I took the carrier unwrapped to the cargo shipping office so they could check what I was sending. I filled out forms at the first office, then paid at Aramex’s office. It is possible to send from the first office but that would have cost me nearly £400. By using Aramex, I only paid £180.
You need to keep and have the airway bill to collect the carrier. In Entebbe, it took nine hours to collect the carrier due to paperwork and checks. You have to pay an agent to help you. This should cost about 250,000 ugx. (Note: some agents tried to charge me three times this amount).
I mistakenly decided to wait for the cargo myself. I had no idea it would take nine hours and kept being told it was nearly done. Instead I would suggest you just pay extra for an agent to clear the goods and deliver it to you. I would recommend using this agent Deo: 077262770. He has a van which helps if delivering giant size dog carriers.
Book (yours and) your dog’s flights:
From what I understand, British Airways can take you and your dog direct to the UK, but your dog must fly as cargo as the UK has an embargo on dogs from Africa. I was told that BA would cost nearly £2000. Also, if Prince flew as cargo, I would have to pay an agent to receive him on the UK side. Not sure how true this is as different people have told me different things, but it was clear that BA would be a more expensive option so I decided not to take this route.
Instead I chose to fly Prince with KLM, one of the few companies that still allow your dog to travel as baggage. However, because of the embargo, they will only fly your dog as far as Amsterdam.
KLM charged me $200 to take Prince as baggage, although at the airport the check-in staff tried to charge me $400. I refused and only paid $200.
The KLM office in Kampala will help you book your dog on a flight and send you a confirmation email.Note: arrange this early as there is a limit on how many animals can travel on one flight.
Get your dog’s export papers and third country vet certificate:
Once you have confirmed your dog’s place on the flight and about three weeks before you fly (after you have received the Rabies certificate) return to the vet and ask them to arrange export papers.
You should receive an EU third country vet certificate and a Ugandan inter-state movement permit.
Last check-up at the vet:
A day or two before you fly, your dog must have a last minute check-up and deworming and flea treatment. The vet will write you a health exam certificate.
Taking your dog to the UK from Uganda. Dog health exam certificate, Uganda
Taking your dog to the UK from Uganda. Dog health exam certificate, Uganda
NOTE: I was forced to stay an extra day in Amsterdam because the vet did not add the last check details to the third party certificate. There is a box for worming etc – shown in pink, above . This must be completed with the date, time AND vet’s stamp!
IMPORTANT: Do not put any marks or notes on the document yourself. I did, and nearly was not let into the UK because of it.
I was worried about how I would get the huge carrier and Prince to check-in. (Yes, you actually have to go to the check-in desk!)
I spoke to the security man nicely and they allowed me to drive right up to the departures door (usually you have to park and walk up stairs). When I arrived, I had Prince on the lead and the carrier was collapsed down. An assistant came to help me. (I ended up paying him 10,000 ugx on the condition that he stayed with me until after the dog was checked in).
I walked through with Prince and the assistant helped me to pass the carrier and luggage through the scanner.
Because of the dog, I was allowed in slightly earlier than the other customers (about 2 ½ hours before the flight). I went to the check-in desk and handed over my and my dog’s papers. They brought photocopies and stickers for the carrier.
Prince in his dog carrier at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
Prince in dog carrier at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
Prince had to be put inside the carrier and weighed (the assistant helped me to do this!) It was only at this point that I constructed the carrier.
Once my dog was weighed, the assistant left me. I made sure Prince had water, treats, blanket and toys. I stayed at check-in with him for about 45 minutes, until ground crew came to collect him.
Note: feed your dog on the morning of the flight only. It’s not nice for the dog if he has to go to the loo in the carrier. I made sure my dog was fed as soon as he got off the plane.
Reuniting with your dog in Amsterdam:
The dog will be brought straight to the baggage area after your flight. Prince was there waiting for me with a member of ground crew as soon as I arrived. There were no further checks or anything to declare.
Once we arrived in Amsterdam, there were no more checks. I just walked my dog out of the airport
How to get from Amsterdam airport to the ferry in the Hook of Holland:
I was not lucky enough to have someone meet me with a car at Amsterdam. I thought I would have to leave the carrier at the airport. (It’s about 1m high and 1.2 m long so I couldn’t manage the carrier, my luggage and Prince). It would have cost me more to ship it home than to buy another one new.
I thought about donating it. The Dutch Society for the Protection of Animals was willing to come and collect it. You can email them to discuss it. In the end, a good Samaritan saw me struggling and actually offered to help me send it home for free, but you can’t rely on that happening. I was just lucky.
After collecting my luggage, I left the airport, gave Prince food and we had a bit of a walk about. I then purchased tickets for the train to the Hook of Holland so we could catch the ferry to the UK.
It was quite tricky getting Prince and luggage on the train. I had everything in a backpack and the short leash and harness helped a lot. Lots of kind people helped me.
Addy with Prince on station platform
You have to change trains once but we just walked to an opposite platform so it wasn’t too hard. Prince seemed bewildered but everything went ok.
I think technically dogs are meant to wear a muzzle on the train in the Netherlands; this is why you need one. Mine didn’t wear a muzzle though and no one complained.
Note: there are two Hook of Holland stops – depart at the first one.
Getting onto the ferry for the UK:
I had booked my tickets in advance with Stena Line who allow dogs on with walk on passengers as they have kennels on-board. You must book in advance but I suggest you pay the extra and book flexible tickets.
I had trouble with my paperwork as the time and date of worming were not stamped on the third party certificate. At this point I nearly cried! However the Stena staff were used to this happening (although maybe not for dogs from Uganda). They directed me to a dog-friendly hotel and booked us a vet, so it was lucky I had booked flexible tickets.
The hotel has a special dog friendly room, which cost 75 Euros, with a garden. Prince loved it and it’s just a few minutes walk from the train station and Stena office. The vet is just a few doors down from the hotel. Although I didn’t plan a stopover I would strongly suggest one. In hindsight it was a good thing that Prince and I were delayed as it gave us time to take a breather. Hook of Holland is a lovely place and there are nice walks for you and your dog along the beach and in the woods.
Prince checks out the ferry. How to take your dog to the UK from Uganda – a guide based on personal experience
On the ferry – and home!
Once you have checked-in, go to a supervisor who will scan your dog’s microchip and check your papers. If all is ok, you are given a green pass and can walk your dog onto the ferry.
On the ferry, go to the service desk who will give you a passcode for the kennels and escort you there. The kennels are nice and, unlike the plane, you can visit your dog during the journey. The ferry is great and has cinema, restaurants etc.
When we docked in the UK, we just walked off the ferry. No more checks were needed (although apparently sometimes they do have an extra check upon arrival).
I had a friend pick me up from the ferry terminal and we were home!!!!
Addy writes:
Prince is loving the UK and I’m loving having him here. He’s such a kind and loving pet, I actually think to some extent he knows how lucky he’s been. Plus he’s a celebrity in the local park as he looks like no other local dog and has a cool story. Bringing my dog home to the UK from Uganda was hard work but 100% worth it.
The Muzungu says:
Are you thinking of taking your dog to the UK or overseas? If you’ve been through this process, do you have any comments to add?
You won’t always get Bilharzia if you swim in Lake Victoria and, if you do, it may take weeks, months or even twenty years for you to show symptoms.
Bilharzia (also known as Schistosomiasis or snail fever) can be horrible. You will feel under the weather and nauseous for weeks.
How to avoid Bilharzia. “Swimming is at your own risk” reads the signpost in Munyonyo on Lake Victoria, Uganda
The best advice? Many people would just never swim in Lake Victoria or the River Nile but my tips to avoid Bilharzia are:
Swim from a boat or pontoon, or at least in an area away from the reed beds where the Bilharzia snail’s larvae hatch. It’s these larvae that get into your bloodstream and make you ill.
If you crunch on a bed of tiny snail shells as you walk into the Lake, that’s a sure sign Bilharzia’s around.
After your swim, give yourself a good all-over scrub in the shower. Best to do this within 20 minutes of getting out of the lake.
My friend Julia says ‘enjoy your swim! And afterwards, give the soles of your feet a good hard scrub!’ Apparently that’s enough to prevent you from getting Bilharzia.
Don’t just assume you’re ok. Bilharzia can remain dormant for years and, left untreated, can lead to liver damage.
Buy the Bilharzia tablets from any pharmacy in Kampala. They are very cheap. If you’re just visiting Uganda, I’d recommend buying some and taking them when you get home. You need to take them any time after three months of exposure. Take them one evening before you go to bed. You’ll feel a bit nauseous but wake up right as rain the next morning. Last time I asked, the Praziquantel (Biltricide) tablets cost just 600 Uganda shillings each. You should take one tablet for every 10 kg of body weight.
Alternatively….
Don’t let any of this put you off swimming in Uganda. There are hundreds of lakes scattered across the country. The good news is you can swim in most of them.
How to avoid Bilharzia. It’s safe to swim in Lake Nabugabo. There’s no Bilharzia, no crocodiles and no hippos!
Swimming in Uganda. Sandy Beach at Lake Nabugabo, just outside Masaka, is popular for a weekend away from Kampala.
How to avoid Bilharzia in Uganda. Swim in Lake Bunyonyi. Photo of washing clothes in Lake Bunyonyi
When I was a VSO volunteer, I was given a whole list of vaccinations (15 injections in total!) and a free supply of anti-Malarials, in the belief it was cheaper to medicate me than to repatriate me! I took the anti-Malarials (Doxycycline) religiously every day for several months…. but then I started to forget.
An expat friend who’s lived in Uganda 12 years advised it might not be a good idea to take anti-Malarials for longer than my two year volunteering stint anyway. When I heard that my British volunteer pharmacist friend Cheryl had stopping taking them too, I stopped taking mine. However, I’m not totally silly. I do take other precautions to try and avoid getting Malaria.
Sleeping under a mosquito net is the best. I love the sanctuary of my net, I feel safe. When you’re in a cold part of the country or at altitude, you may sleep without a net. Equally if you’re in a hotel with air-conditioned rooms, mosquitoes won’t thrive.
Africa’s most dangerous animal, the mosquito
Mosquito repellent can be very effective. It’s most needed at dusk. I just smother my feet and ankles with it.
Make sure you know what the signs of Malaria are and go and have a test straightaway if you show symptoms. Symptoms differ from person to person.
In my case, Malaria symptoms are: a bad headache for several days (that paracetamol wouldn’t shift); my neck and shoulder muscles seize up and set like concrete; I also have lower back pain; one night I had a fever.
If you’re travelling outside Kampala, it’s a good idea to take anti-Malarials while you’re away. Buy a test kit and a supply of the prophylaxis so you can self-medicate if needs be. Both are cheap and widely available across Uganda.
If you’re only in Uganda for a short time, take your anti-Malarials (and follow the instructions carefully). Remember Malaria can be fatal.
In Uganda, when you feel ill, friends will always suggest you go for a test.
See a doctor!
If you get sick back home after your trip however, your doctor may not recognise Malaria symptoms.
It’s quite common to get a negative test result for Malaria even though you have it. I felt very sick on the eve of travelling to Ethiopia. Although I had a negative test, I believed I had Malaria symptoms. I took the prophylaxis anyway, and lo and behold I felt right as rain. However, some would argue that you should not take the medication unless you really need it, i.e. have a positive result.
I’ve had Malaria twice. I seem to have been lucky and not been as sick as some other people. At the time of writing, a friend of mine is still in bed after seven days of sickness. Last week she had to have a drip and her temperature was 40°. Another friend was hospitalised and had hallucinations. Malaria can kill, remember.
Don’t mess with Malaria!
FACT: Did you know the indigenous Neem tree has over 135 medicinal uses? It is a natural repellent to mosquitoes, thus a popular tree to grow in a compound. Putting a small branch of it in your house is an effective mozzie repellent.
Have you had Malaria? Do you have any unusual symptoms?
Do you have any other Uganda travel tips or expat travel advice you’d like to share?
De Muzungu’s developed a taste for hanging out with Ugandan Royals recently, so when I heard Kampala Hash House Harriers – the Hash – were (dis)organising the Bunyoro Kingdom’s Empango Celebrations inauguration run, my name was first on the list!
11th June 2013 marked the 19th anniversary of the coronation of Omukama (King) Iguru Gafabusa Solomon the 1st of Bunyoro Kitara Kingdom, so the inauguration run (two days before the actual Empango) was one event I couldn’t let pass me by…
It was only to be expected: for one reason or another, the bus left Kampala for Hoima two hours late.
Just as we were ready to leave, someone asked “where’s the driver?”
“He’s gone to Friday prayers” came the answer.
Eh banange! Only in Uganda.
As we left Buganda Kingdom and crossed the Mayanja River into Bunyoro, Harriet explained that “Kabalega was a real King who fought for his kingdom. He didn’t just sit on a red carpet.” We were to hear his name mentioned many times on our trip to Bunyoro.
The only way off the bus is to drink the beer first! Empango inauguration run, Hoima
The fact our bus was only half full meant there was more than enough beer to drink. “If you can’t dance sleeping, you can dance standing ” and so the party bus danced its way from Kampala to Hoima.
Pump action. Harriet eagerly watched the dial on the petrol pump go round, making sure we didn’t waste a shilling of beer money on unnecessary fuel
We’d been at the petrol station 20 minutes before we realised there was no petrol. Tewali! (Nothing!)
The second petrol station was also empty.
Third time lucky, we landed at a “wind-up petrol station.”
We arrived in Hoima, Bunyoro Kingdom, at dusk
Surprise, surprise, most of us missed Friday’s ‘Red Dress’ Hash run around Hoima. Stopping seven times along the way for ‘short calls’, snacks, chatting up the ladies, more beer, muchomo roasted meat, etc tends to do that to your programme. The three plus hour journey took twice that long.
Mural of the traditional marwa drink that is shared and sipped with straws from a calabash. Scene at the – more cheap than cheerful – Riviera Hotel, Hoima, Uganda
Saturday morning started with a visit to the Karuziika, the Omukama’s Palace, a modern looking house (Brits, think Surrey suburbs!) with some traditional Bunyoro huts being (re)built in the compound, in preparation for the Empango Celebrations on June 11th. [Great time for the camera to fail, part 1].
We were welcomed by the hugely knowledgeable Permanent Secretary (PPS) who commended us for our “exercise to combat modern lifestyle diseases.” That made me feel a bit sheepish. (Had no-one mentioned that the Hash is ‘a drinking club with a running problem?’)
Throne Room at the Karuziika, Bunyoro Kingdom Palace Uganda. Look how well-behaved we can be! Empango Celebrations inauguration run, Hoima
Earlier we’d been invited into the Throne Room. Excited Hashers – ordered to leave smelly trainers and drinks outside – were asked to sit on the assorted lion and leopardskins lying on the floor as the PPS introduced us to the Bunyoro Kingdom’s history as traders, hunters and metalworkers. He briefly flicked up a corner of the ceremonial bark cloth so we could have a peek at the nine-legged throne / stool.
I’m hooked on the Bunyoro cultural history. “The empire was built and lost on ivory” he told us, as we heaved a heavy elephant tusk around our group. He pointed out the spearholes in the lionskins beneath us. The huge lion paws were still intact and there was a discernible smell of (big) cat. As for leopard “there are only two ways to kill one,” he said, “with a club or by strangling it.” (This advice obviously predates the invention of AK47s!)
We heard that the King has just returned from China – nothing to do with ivory I hope? I first arrived in Uganda to work for the Uganda Conservation Foundation, essentially combating poaching and protecting elephants, and there I was sitting on dead animal skins, passing around an elephant’s tusk … !
Oil looms large over Hoima, Bunyoro, Uganda. Hashers stop at a checkpoint
As we Hashed (ran/walked) into Hoima town, I chatted to someone from the local radio station about Hoima’s new status as Uganda’s Oil City. Definitely a case of the rich getting richer and the poor getting poorer. He told me stories of people relocating. Some have come to Hoima to seek their fortune, others have had to move out of town as their 60,000 Uganda shillings monthly rent has increased to a whopping 200,000 UGX. Ow.
Hoima market scene, similar to many across Uganda, is set to change with the construction of a new purpose-built market centre. Growth in Hoima is fuelled by the developing oil industry.
The town’s growth is fueled by Uganda’s developing oil industry. The Hoima market scene, for example, similar to many across Uganda, is set to change with the construction of a new purpose-built market centre.
The walk to Lake Albert down the steep Rift Valley Escarpment takes around one hour. Better take a boda, especially coming back up!
Saturday afternoon’s trip to see the oil wells wasn’t what I expected. Silly me, fancy expecting to see oil wells on your trip to see the oil wells! In the end, the impromptu boda boda trip down the steep escarpment, passing the modest Kabalega Falls on our way down to Lake Albert, was one of the highlights of the weekend. Impassable by vehicle, the loose gravel and hairpin bends made it a hair-raising descent. To be honest, coming up was even scarier, especially when we met this guy and his jerry can collection as (three of us on a boda) were struggling to negotiate a tight corner.
Better take a boda coming back up the Rift Valley Escarpment!
The smell of drying fish hit us as we approached the village of Kibero.
It felt like we’d landed in an alien country. There were no vehicles, just a few bodas (making the most of the unexpected day tripper BONANZA) and no advertising (thus little colour). Neither were there any food stalls, market vendors or rubbish in the dirt roads. It all seemed very strange. There are hundreds of Ugandan villages cut off from the rest of the world but this one was different somehow, just a collection of drab sun-dried mud houses, piles of fish drying in the sun, ducks, people sitting on doorsteps. [Great time for the camera to fail, part 2].
On the beach – not a slot machine or ice cream van in sight – dozens of excited kids posed for photographs with the Lake Albert backdrop.
The remote Kibero fishing village, Lake Albert. You have to love Ugandan kids, always a beautiful smile for the camera.
Back in Hoima, Saturday evening’s programme was a special audience with the Omukama at the Palace.
All the ladies had on their best dresses. (Rumour had it that the Omukama would pick One Lucky Lady as his next wife! So we all kneeled dutifully when a Hashette tipped us the nod.) The Omukama looked very dignified, although the corporate branding across the front of his tent slightly overshadowed the traditional nature of the occasion. What next? “Bunyori Kingdom sponsored by Tullow”. Sigh. Pragmatically, oil has to be the best thing to happen to the Kingdom this century, as the minister of information, Bunyoro Kitara Kingdom, confirms in Uganda: Bunyoro is regaining her glory.
On the search for Mparo Tombs – the tombs of Kabelaga and his descendants
Recap: so, on Friday we’d missed seeing Katasiha Fort and on Saturday we’d missed seeing the oil wells… next stop (would we find it?) Mparo Tombs, “historical site rehabilitated by the Uganda People’s Defence Forces [the army] in honour of Kabalega in recognition of his struggle against colonialism.”
Kabalega is said to be ‘the last great king of one of the greatest kingdoms in the Great Lakes region,’ and is buried at Mparo. Unfortunately, we didn’t get inside the grass thatched traditional hut that is Kabalega’s Tomb.
Sir Tito Winy’s Tomb is encased in concrete inside a modern structure. It is covered with a huge cowhide, fixed in place with nine traditional hoes. Mparo, Hoima
The traditional huts of the Bunyoro Tombs are very similar to the Buganda Kingdom’s famous Kasubi Tombs – showing Bunyoro descendence from Buganda.
“The man with the key is gone” but we were at least shown the grounds by ‘the heiress’ – one of Kabalega’s descendants.
Luckily we had Harriet to translate for us!
Paint it pink and I’d eat it. Les reads the plaque on the rather weather-battered wedding cake cum monument
The monument marks the spot where in 1877 Kabalega granted an audience to Emin Pasha.
“When Emin Pasha came face-to-face with the Omukama (King) for the first time, Kabalega was dressed in a piece of fine orange-pink coloured bark cloth. It covered his body to his breast except the left-hand shoulder, over which was thrown a piece of darker coloured bark cloth. He wore a necklace of hairs from the giraffe’s tail, the middle of which was strung a single blue glass bead, which encircled his neck. He was strikingly fair and about 5 feet, 10 inches tall. He made the most favourable impression on Emin Pasha.”
A.R. Dunbar, “Uganda’s famous men series: Omukama Chwa 11, Kabalega” (East African literature Euro 1965).
Money offering left outside Sir Tito Winy’s Tomb. Sir Tito Winy was the heir to Kabalega
Writing this blog has given me a real interest in Kabalega and Emin Pasha. I’m pretty dumbfounded by what I’ve read. Between them they changed the course of history for millions of people, numerous kingdoms and several countries. How have I been in Uganda almost five years and hardly learned about them? (Visiting Kampala’s rather posh Emin Pasha Hotel hardly counts!)
Girls paying our respects at Kabalega’s Tomb, Mparo, Bunyoro Uganda
Kneeling for the camera was my idea of fooling around. If I’d known what I’ve read today, I would have done it with more respect.
Julia receives a roadside benediction from what appeared to be a Chineseman made out of recycled metal. What’s this all about?
A few kilometres outside Hoima, we came across some disused ornamental fountains. Another fountain featured a metal bird. Some interesting colonial type buildings lay derelict next to them. I can imagine this all being snapped up and turned into a bijou coffeeshop when the real oil money starts pouring into town. Andrew Roberts, co-editor of the epic Bradt Uganda guide, what is this all about?
All in all, another brilliant Uganda week-end for Diary of a Muzungu. It’s a shame we didn’t hang around for the real royal Empango celebrations. Apparently 200,000 people partied for three days! Photos of the official Empango celebrations
The Omukama at the 2013 Empango celebrations in Bunyoro Kitara Kingdom, Uganda
2014 will mark the 20th anniversary of the Omukama’s coronation, guess who’s planning to attend?
Riding a boda boda (motorbike) is all part of the Ugandan experience, but play it safe and minimise the risks.
Early morning boda boda ride from Upper Konge in Kampala. In Uganda, you are never far from the village… although I lived just a few kilometres from the city centre (and even closer to Lake Victoria) you would hardly think so. The bumpy early morning ride down a steep marram dirt road is a great way to wake up – and a lovely way to see Kampala, the city of Seven Hills.
There’s nothing more exciting than having the wind blow through your hair on a beautiful sunny day – but you wouldn’t take the risks of riding on the back of a stranger’s motorbike without wearing a helmet back home would you? Ask yourself: would you do this if your mum knew about it?
Away from Kampala city centre, Uganda boda bodas can be a lot of fun. Jan, Stacey and I hired three bodas for the climb up the hill to Cassia Lodge
You might be on a budget, but your safety is worth more than saving a few thousand shillings. Try and get a licensed ‘special hire taxi ‘home, sharing with friends if possible.
Don’t ever just flag down a passing boda driver at night – they could be anyone.
Wear a crash helmet, ideally your own. If the boda boda driver has one, the chances are it will not fit, there will be no chin strap, it may have been dropped many times (and thus rendered almost useless) and, besides, you don’t know who else has had it on their head!
Crash helmets are compulsory on boda bodas in next door Rwanda. And no more than one passenger is allowed!
Use a boda recommended by a friend. Store his / their numbers on your phone. (It doesn’t mean you have to date them ladies, although they may try it on!)
Use a boda from a recognised boda ‘stage’ (like a bus stop). These guys are licensed, whereas the majority of bodas on the streets are not. If you have an accident, the boda is likely to disappear before you scrape yourself off the tarmac. If you take a boda from a stage, you can at least report the driver to the stage chairman or the police.
If your friend goes home on a boda at night, store the number plate of the bike on your phone. Let the boda driver see that you’re doing this. Tell your friend to SMS or beep or ‘flash’ you when s/he gets home safely.
This advice is for men and women, Ugandans, expats, tourists, volunteers – everyone.
There are some unscrupulous guys out there who are just criminals on motorbikes. Don’t be a victim.
When you’re riding a boda, keep your personal items close to your body. Hide jewellery. Take it off until you arrive at your destination.
Wedge your bag between you and the boda driver. Someone tried to pull my friend off a bike when she had her bag loose over her shoulder. He only wanted the bag but he nearly pulled them off the bike and into the road.
Boda bodas are the main form of transport in Uganda: for people, chickens, goats, three piece sofas – and even coffins!
Have fun, but be safe.
Remember Uganda is a developing country with limited facilities.
If you have an accident on a boda boda (the statistics are TERRIBLE), the medical services may take a long time to get to you in an emergency. Can you risk your dream holiday or your new life to be flown home in an emergency?
Check out Amy Fallon’s funky blog dedicated to Uganda’s boda boda drivers http://bodabodababy.blogspot.co.uk/
What are your tips for travelling safely on a boda boda in Uganda?
Do you have any other Uganda travel tips or expat travel advice you’d like to share?
