Miss Tourism Uganda leads clean-up of Fort Portal
Miss Tourism Uganda to lead 3-day clean-up of Fort Portal 29th October 2021. Environment conservation is a top priority for the reigning Miss Tourism of Uganda as she makes her maiden visit to Tooro land
In this week’s Guest Post, Isaiah Mwesige of AFRIYEA (African Young Environment Activists) invites us to join 3 days of environmental activities in Fort Portal. I’ve been following Isaiah’s work for a little while. His passion and commitment are infectious – let’s do what we can to help suport his excellent environmental campaigns!
Isaiah writes:
The world is faced with adverse effects of global warming and climate change which define a crisis of our time. This is happening more quickly than we feared which has affected most major sectors of the economy not sparing the tourism industry as well. However, we are far from powerless in the face of this global threat. As António Guterre, United Nations Secretary-General pointed out in 2019, “the climate emergency is a race we are losing, but it is a race we can win.”
For Miss Tourism Uganda, majority of her efforts are being put into environmental conservation through activities such as tree planting, plastic collection, proper disposal of waste and awareness campaigns. These are among the key highlights on her agenda for her maiden visit to Fort Portal under the theme “An eco-friendly environment for sustainable tourism and economic growth,” organized by Fort Portal Tourism City Council in collaboration with AFRIYEA, scheduled for 29th October 2021.
Fort Portal has a mostly tropical climate characterized by stable rainfall patterns. However, the effects of climate change have turned the seasons around with the area experiencing shorter or longer rains and harsher dry seasons.
Since the elevation of Fort Portal municipality to a tourism city, different stakeholders have joined efforts to protect and conserve the environment
As we all know, the Rwenzori region in which Fort Portal lies is a hub for most of the tourism sites in Uganda and it is upon this basis that key regionl role players have collectively worked to create sustainable environments which will bring in more investment opportunities through tourism and other sectors.
As everyone gets ready for the homecoming of Queen Suzan Adyeeri, the Uganda Miss Tourism 2021, notable leaders are pledging full support towards the success of this event. These include: the City Mayor, the Resident City Commissioner, the Security Forces and their respective offices. Through good terms and coordination, AFRIYEA has been able to organize Miss Tourism Uganda’s homecoming event. This will be followed by 2 days of environmental conservation thus making it a 3 days event of thorough cleaning of Fort Portal City, tree planting, and proper waste management especially along the banks of River Mpanga.
The prestigious visit of Miss Uganda to Fort Portal is aimed at conserving the environment whilst boosting the tourism potential in Tooro.
Fort Portal city has embarked on her journey of being the cleanest city in Uganda. The campaign is fronted by His Worship Asaba Edson Ruyonga, the Mayor of Fort Portal City. His team are working with stakeholders that include learning institutions (Mountains of the Moon University, FINS Medical University), religious institutions, private companies (Kalya Courts Hotel, Nyaika Hotel, AADI Enterprises), civil society organizations (KRC, RFPJ), non-governmental organizations (JESE, IDP, AFRIYEA, Protos, Enabel) and several other partners both new and old. All of these shall be taking part in the prestigious visit of Miss Uganda to Toro region and you are welcome to join us!
Are you in Fort Portal on 29th October?
We welcome volunteers from all walks of life to plant trees, make a donation, promote the event or help clean the streets and River Mpanga.
Interview with UK’s woman & home magazine
The power of volunteering: an interview about life as a conservation volunteer in Uganda
Once upon a lifetime ago, I left my 9-5 job in London to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Volunteering with VSO (Voluntary Service Overseas) was the passport to an incredible life. It’s a story I’ve been blogging about ever since…
I’m thrilled that an interview about my life in Uganda featured in the UK’s woman & home magazine (October 2021) and Woman Magazine (July 2022).
“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.
In London, I had a corporate job and a long-term relationship, but the end of the relationship reignited my dream of visiting Africa.
I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Woman Magazine | woman & home magazine
Read the woman & home interview with Charlotte in Uganda here.
The warmth here in Uganda – like the people – envelops you in a hug and makes you want to stay forever…
Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine, October 2021
woman&home is on sale in UK shops or online
Do you enjoy reading Interviews? Read more Interviews with Charlotte Beauvoisin here.
A world class welcome at Entebbe Airport
Is it safe to travel to Uganda during COVID-19? Standard Operating Procedures at Entebbe International Airport
Yesterday I flew into Entebbe Airport from Moi International Airport (Mombasa), Kenya with Uganda Airlines. Uganda has pulled out all the stops to make a great first impression of the country. I was very impressed with the efficiency of the whole process!
This is a summary of my experience at around 11pm Sunday 4th July 2021. For the latest COVID-related travel updates from Entebbe Airport, read my Latest news for travellers to Uganda. I am endeavouring to update this blog regularly but it’s difficult to keep track of accurate info. If in doubt, you can always message me directly.
When you arrive at Entebbe Airport, you will be asked to show your passport, Yellow Fever certificate and negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate (an antigen test is not enough). Your temperature is taken automatically by a contactless Ipad-type screen. There were two lines of people for this and we moved very quickly. There were approximately 50 passengers in the arrivals hall when my Uganda Airlines flight from Mombasa landed. It took me around 15 minutes from entering the airport terminal building to exiting immigration. That is record timing!
My bags were already on the carousel by this time so I picked them immediately and then passed everything through the baggage scanner. Before exiting the airport building, three staff members asked where I had flown from and checked my passport. There were large graphics detailing the category one (highest risk) and category two (medium risk) countries and the restrictions that apply to each. Airport staff asked where I had traveled from (at the time of writing, Kenya is classed as a category two country) and whether I had been vaccinated. I showed proof of my two AstraZenecca (Covishield) vaccinations and they gave me a tiny slip of paper that I then handed to another two staff just outside the building. This slip of paper said I was ‘cleared to exit’, meaning I did not need any further PCR tests.
Do you need a PCR test to enter Uganda?
Another traveler arrived from Kenya with me. He said he had not been vaccinated and was told to go and have another PCR test. This he will have to pay $65 for. Entebbe Airport arrange the (complimentary) transport to the test site (a hotel in Entebbe). Travelers say the test process usually takes two to four hours before you can continue with your journey. You can wait for your results at the hotel (there is Wi-Fi, refreshments and charging points) or go and rest at one of the ‘designated hotels.’
NOTE: it has been proposed that everyone arriving at Entebbe Airport will need to a) have a negative PCR certificate plus B) have a PCR test on arrival, regardless of your vaccination status and where you are traveling from. You will need to check my Latest COVID-related news for Uganda blog to see whether that is going ahead or not.
The rules at Entebbe International Airport are clear and EVERY passenger and staff member followed the protocols (COVID-19 SOPs) throughout. Forget excuses, masks hanging off ears etc, everyone was doing the right thing.
600,000 Ugandans rely directly or indirectly on tourism so we’ve been absolutely devastated by the pandemic. Even this seasoned traveller was dreading flying with all the extra tests, masks and more so it was a huge relief to pass through Entebbe Airport so quickly.
Clearly the world is starved of positive news. Kudos to all the teams at Entebbe who are working to help #restarttourism
As you know, things change daily with travel restrictions and openings everywhere. If you need travel advice you are welcome to contact me directly.
July 28, 2021: I have passed through Entebbe International Airport a number of times in the past two months. You can read about the check-in / Departures experience here.
Diary of a Muzungu’s tips for staying sane during lockdown!
Entebbe Airport open for international tourism but Uganda under lockdown for 42 days
Click here to read President’s Museveni’s address on COVID-19 pandemic in Uganda, June 17th 2021.
Scroll down to read Diary of a Muzungu’s to do list – and keep sane – for the next 42 days in #Uganda!
Uganda is in total lockdown (to reduce spread of COVID-19) except for emergency vehicles, tourist vehicles and cargo (deliveries).
Diary of a Muzungu’s tips for staying sane during lockdown
- go for a walk / run or bike ride EVERY DAY. Get fit, and get those endorphins pumping around your body. You’ll thank me 😎
- gaze out of the window, often
- daydream about future travels
- drink water!
- look after yourselves
- watch the birds
- tend your garden, nurture some houseplants, buy some flowers
- check on your friends and family regularly, especially those who might be alone…
- focus on what you CAN do, not what you can’t
- read
- listen to audio books. Audible is amazing!
- don’t touch your eyes / mouth / nose unless you have washed your hands first
- cook yourself something special
- dance, baby!
- ask friends to recommend some new music
- don’t overdo the booze or weed
- keep a regular sleep routine
- focus on the positive – it’s there!
- wash your hands for 30 seconds with lots of soap
- change your mask daily. buy masks you can wash and iron. these disposable ones are an environmental nightmare.
- don’t buy stuff you don’t need. minimise spending.
- wake up early for the dawn chorus – it will lift your soul!
- rinse and repeat all of the above, daily
- spread the love
I have written extensively about #COVID-19 in Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. For Uganda-specific health advice read Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda. I’ve tried my best to keep information current but you’re always welcome to contact the muzungu directly for the latest advice.
See you on the other side! #StaySafeUG
Who were the Polish women who built a church in Uganda?
Discovering the unusual history behind the Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya near Masindi, western Uganda
Uganda consistently ranks highly as a country that cares for and welcomes refugees. This is not a new phenomenon, as a story from the 1940s reveals.
Visitors to Masindi are frequently amazed to learn that the area was once home to a community of Poles who built a church that remains popular with the community to this day. 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi, adjacent to Nyabyeya Forestry College, is Uganda’s only Polish church. If this is unusual, consider also the fact that it was built by refugees, mostly women, who fled Europe during the Second World War. The Polish Church at Nyabyeya is an anomaly, both architecturally and culturally but this unusual story has many positive elements, of sanctuary and childhood rediscovered.
Read their story and scroll down to view my photos of the church as it is today.
Why did Polish refugees come to Uganda?
In the early 1940s, more than 2,000 Polish women, children and elderly men arrived in western Uganda. They were some of over 18,000 Poles in 22 settlements in British colonies across Africa.
This group of Poles had been held in Siberian prisoner of war camps until 1941 when an amnesty allowed them to be freed. Polish men of fighting age joined General Anders’ army. With war raging across Europe, those who couldn’t join the army were offered shelter in one of Britain’s overseas territories. Over 110,000 people – the army and civilians – made their way from the Steppes of Russia to Iraq, Iran, Palestine and India. The Poles destined for Uganda were carried by boat to Mombasa and by rail across Kenya. Polish refugees arrived in Namasagali Port on the River Nile and were ferried onto Lake Kyoga by East African Harbors and Railways water transport up to Masindi Port. From here they boarded vehicles to their new homes (or settlements) near Masindi.
It’s hard to imagine what trials this community went through on their months and years of travel.
The book “From the Steppes to the Savannah” by Barbara Porajska recounts the story of their journey, mostly on foot, from the Russian Steppes and across the Indian Ocean to Mombasa and on to Masindi.
Who built the Polish Church near Masindi?
The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya was built almost entirely by the women who had left their husbands and other male relatives in Europe, fighting in World War Two.
The church was built between 1943-1945, at the foot of Mount Wanda. Above the church entrance is the Polish coat of arms with the inscription Poloniae semper Fidelis. On the exterior is another inscription (in Polish, English, Latin and Kinyoro) saying: “This church is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, Queen of the Polish Crown, built by Polish exiles while wandering to the free Fatherland.” The (original) pews are hard carved, as is the towering figure of Jesus, carved from a single tree trunk. Above the altar hangs the icon of Our Lady of Częstochowa. On the church walls are the Stations of the Way of the Cross, with inscriptions in Polish. The church floor is made of hand-made hexagonal bricks. To visit the church, you will need to book in advance as the church receives few visitors and is often locked. (Scroll down for more details).
What was life like in the Polish settlements near Masindi?
“For children, Africa was a paradise” compared to the hell of Siberia from where they had come. According to the Association of Saint Michael the Archangel:
“The Poles travelled by ship from India to the port of Mombasa in Kenya. Later, they travelled inland to Lake Albert in Uganda, where “a piece of jungle was grubbed up for them, and clay houses covered with ivory grass were gradually built. The floor in the houses was made of clay, instead of windows – wooden shutters, and the light was an oil lamp. The furniture of the houses was also primitive – a bunk with a mosquito net, a table and two benches. Each house was divided into three rooms, for each family there was one room. They cooked in a wood-burning kitchen that was outside the house. There was also an ‘outhouse’ next to it.
The villages were built in the shape of a cross or in the shape of the letter H. In the middle was a well, and four sandy roads spread to the four sides of the world. There was a tap at the mouth of each one, from where people got water. They had lunch every day. Although the rations were not large, no-one was hungry. There were gardens around the houses; there was a lot of fruit around, and despite the ban, they hunted in the jungle for wild pigs from which they made sausages. Resourceful housewives supposedly even made ‘sauerkraut’ by shredding immature pineapples.” (Translation from the Polish by Google Translate).
“In Polish settlements, there were common, secondary, vocational and musical schools, and despite the problems with textbooks, some even seemed to graduate there. Because there were no teachers, the older high school graduates began to teach in public schools after completing the pedagogical course. The estate also had a hospital, two shops, a common room and a library, a bakery, a sewing room, a brickyard, a joiner’s workshop and a shoemaker. There was also a scout team, a theatre group, orchestra and choir. After suffering in Siberia, the Poles wanted the next place of exile to resemble a lost homeland. A part of the village was also an orphanage for children whose loved ones were tortured in Russia, did not manage to cope with the hardships of the road or enlisted in the army.”
Stanisław Lula, who arrived in Uganda when he was 16 years old, recalls: “Masindi estate is a large village built especially for the reception of Polish refugees … It was established in 1942 and consisted of 8 villages connected with each other. Our village was called ‘Monkey Grove’, because it bordered with bush, where there were a lot of different monkeys.”
The traditional king Omukama Sir Tito Gafabua Winyi IV of Bunyoro paid occasional visits to the camp.
The Polish Church served Poles living here until the closing of the camp in 1948. Many died of tropical diseases. Of the survivors, few made it to Poland. The Polish Church’s cemetery has 51 graves, 44 of which are Polish. An inscription – also in Polish – reads ‘Pray for the Poles who died 1939 – 1947.’
In 2010 the cemetery was renovated by students from the Pedagogical University of Kraków in Poland.
What happened to the Polish community in Uganda and the church after World War II?
World War II ended in 1945. In 1948, the British started to close down the camps. Of 18,000 Poles who reached East Africa from Siberia, only 3,000 returned to Poland. The others left for other countries.
The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya remains a lively church. As the Forestry College 1 km away many of the Poles’ original houses still stand. Everyone is welcome to the Sunday services.
Visitors who are interested in learning about the Polish community’s impact may enjoy hearing that tin containers in local shops were referred to as Polands. If you wanted a portion of beans from the shop, you would ask for a ‘Poland of beans’ (rather than a cup of beans). These were named after the tins that the Polish had, presumably from the days of war rationing. I was interested to learn what this Polish community had left behind in terms of influence? These were not European colonisers. (How did they get on with local people?)
There was a second Polish settlement in Uganda, at Koja in eastern Uganda. This camp was bigger but razed to the ground after the Poles left. Masindi is therefore the main base in Uganda for Poles wishing to retrace their ancestors.
Why visit the Polish Church?
- Discover WWII history and its impact on East Africa
- A destination for Poles wishing to learn about their ancestors
- An active connection with Poland
- A place to admire Polish Catholic art and iconography
- An active church
How to find Masindi’s Polish Church
The church is 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi and just five minutes from the Royal Mile, Budongo Forest. It’s not signposted and the route takes you along winding dusty tracks (but you may just find it using Google Maps). My visit was organised by Sallie and Robert from New Court View Hotel in Masindi, where I stayed for five nights. They will make sure someone is there to open the church and give you a tour.
If you visit the Polish Church, do read the visitors’ book. Many comments are from descendants of the Poles who once lived here.
Further reading
- How East Africa became home for Polish exiles
- “Africa was the closest to Poland.” The rescued exiles from Siberia were sent to the Black Continent
- Photographs courtesy of Kresy-Siberia Foundation and blog post about Polish refugees in Uganda.
Do you enjoy East African history? Then you’ll love my story about the Uganda Railway and our epic train journey between Nairobi and Mombasa on the Lunatic Express. If you enjoy architecture, read History in your hand – a guide to exploring Kampala, Jinja, Entebbe and Fort Portal using maps and a mobile app.
Out of my element: climbing Mount Elgon
Do you love a physical challenge? In this week’s Guest Post, Jean Byamugisha, CEO of the Uganda Hotel Owners Association swaps her self-confessed boujee lifestyle for walking boots and a tent!
Sleeping in a tent up a mountain – for several days in a row – is not for the faint-hearted, especially when it is your first time camping! Add a rainstorm, heavy walking boots, difficult terrain (and no hot showers for two days) and you start to get a picture of how demanding a hike can be. Jean shares a personal account of the demanding climb of Mount Elgon in eastern Uganda, a hiking adventure that led her on a journey of many personal firsts. Congratulations on this huge endeavour Jean – and thanks for sharing your story!
Going beyond my comfort zone
On Good Friday 2021, Adolfo and I set off on what I deemed to be the craziest holiday I’ve ever taken – conquering the mighty Mount Elgon. I say it was crazy because it was so out of my element. My idea of a holiday is – and has always been – a 5 star hotel, with a 7×7 wide bed and 500 thread count Egyptian cotton bed sheets. A swimming pool and spa don’t hurt either. For all intents and purposes, I am a girl that loves a ‘boujee’ holiday.
Adolfo organised our hiking trip after I lost a bet. He wanted to get me out of my comfort zone and also take a ‘bite’ of his world. As an experienced mountain climber, who has even scaled – what looks impossible to me – Mount Rwenzori and all the Virunga volcanoes, he was very much looking forward to climbing Mount Elgon. For me, on the other hand, it was a different story.
Climbing with experienced climbers has both its advantages and disadvantages: my biggest fear was not being in shape and holding back the team so my first order of business was getting in shape. For the most part, I do some simple exercises and eat clean but to climb Mount Elgon, I had to up the ante; I had to go to the gym. I took on a personal trainer and worked out six days a week, from 5.30 – 8.30 am in preparation for our trip.
We arrived in eastern Uganda late and spent the eve of our hike at the Uganda Wildlife Authority banda accommodation in Kapchorwa on the edge of Mount Elgon National Park. Adolfo – or “Alfie” as I like to call him – had estimated that we could climb Mount Elgon in three days, spending two nights in the bush. However, after discussing the route options with the UWA guides, we were advised to spend an extra night at the top as the distance would be too tough for an inexperienced climber like myself. This, we agreed to. After making all the payments with UWA, we entered Mount Elgon National Park via Kapkwata Gate setting off a bit late (10 am). Our team of seven climbers were me (Jean Byamugisha), “Alfie” Adolfo, two UWA rangers, two porters and a cook.
“When I look at the videos of my Mount Elgon hike now, I can see my state of mind change: when I started the hike, I was full of beans; when I finally came down the mountain … I looked and felt so ratchet!!!”
Jean Byamugisha is all smiles as she sets off on day one of her Mount Elgon hike
Day 1 on Mount Elgon – a shock to the system! Overnight at Pichwa Camp
For a novice, the walk up was fair. Compared to all other routes, our route was by far the most gentle of them all. However, the hike was a shock to my system despite all the work I had done in the gym.
By the time we reached Pichwa Camp, an eight-hour walk later, I had sweated beyond what I ever thought possible. However, I was still strong and felt no aches.
After a quick meal and relaxation, I felt like ‘myself’ once again. I managed to take a hot bathe and eat a heavy dinner. Alfie and I even mastered the strength to walk around the camp and visit some local communities in the evening.
This was the first time I was sleeping in a tent. It was quite comfortable thanks to Adolfo’s advice; he had made sure I came equipped with the right gear. Previously, I had no idea about the different types of sleeping bag, mattresses and waterproof tents that would be invaluable in keeping me warm during the night.
Pichwa Camp was the last place with telephone network; after checking in with home and making sure all our loved ones were ok, we set our phones to airplane mode and braced ourselves for what was to be an excruciating day two.
Day 2 on Mount Elgon – higher and colder at Hunters Cave
We woke up at 6:30 am on day two. The cook and UWA staff had breakfast ready and we set off a few minutes before 8 o’clock since day two was going to be a much longer hike.
Day two was much harder on me than day one. The hike was longer, the climb steeper and the weather hotter. Although I had managed to keep up with the team on day one, by day two I was starting to fall a few minutes behind. The higher we went, the thinner the air got, making the climb more difficult with each step.
On the flip side, the vegetation changed at different altitudes and the views from the top of Mount Elgon were simply breath-taking. Being a small team, we had the whole mountain to ourselves; this made it even more special and – dare I say – romantic. Adolfo took on the difficult task of documenting the entire trip. For a girl who loves selfies and pictures, this was amazing (not so much for Adolfo who had to keep at it for the whole trip!)
“While the gym tests your fitness levels, the hike up a mountain tests your endurance levels and many times this is beyond anything the gym can prepare you for.”
Jean Byamugisha
Day two really knocked my body off balance. We arrived at our second stop, Hunters Cave, 12 hours after leaving Pichwa Camp. I was exhausted but – thanks again to the gym sessions – I didn’t have any aches or muscle pulls of any kind.
Hunters Cave was a completely different experience from Pichwa Camp. We were completely in the bush: no bathroom facility, no kitchen and no rooms. Worse yet, it was a much higher altitude and a lot colder than the previous nights. It felt like negative degrees centigrade at this point. For a ‘boujee’ girl like myself this was a complete nightmare. I had to use the bush for all private activities like taking a shower – and worse – going to the toilet. Most shockingly, I enjoyed this experience, mainly because Adolfo made it fun. Actually, without him, I’d never have dreamed of taking on such a challenge in the first place. He carried his favourite speaker and always played music in the camp which cheered everyone and made us forget about the tough hours we had spent walking up the mountain.
We had a lovely dinner of local chicken and rice at Hunters Cave; this was a very welcome delicacy at this point. Taking on such a humongous challenge requires a lot of energy which means that one needs to eat a lot of food. This was a struggle for me who is used to only eating one solid meal a day. Adolfo had articulated the importance of eating a lot on this trip but it’s not something I took seriously; I soon paid for my stubbornness.
Adolfo pitched our tent while I sat with the rest of the guys near the fire as they made dinner. The weather was extremely cold at this altitude and it rained a lot during the course of the night. Once again, it was agreed that we would leave the camp by 8 am as day three was going to be a longer day. I literally passed out when my head hit the sleeping bag. My body was beginning to show signs of fatigue and dehydration.
Day 3 on Mount Elgon – altitude sickness at Mudde Camp
We woke up again early on day three. I still had no aches at this point and felt fit enough to continue the climb, only wishing I had a few more hours of sleep. Waking up in the mornings is hard for me and ordinarily, I am a late riser. This was worsened by sleeping in the bush and being dead tired after walking over 12 hours each day.
“I started off our third day on Mount Elgon feeling like I was running on empty. I felt weak, fatigued and sleep deprived. This was the point at which I started wondering… what in the world made me crazy enough to take on a challenge like this?”
My pace fell several minutes behind the team and I felt extremely weak. I suffered from altitude sickness and at one point I felt like I was about to faint. Adolfo had warned me about not eating enough and this was the day his warning came to pass. The team organised a few breaks where we stopped to eat some pineapples for energy. Adolfo had also packed some high sugar sweets to give one energy in such instances. These helped but day three still felt like a bad dream.
Beyond the physical effort of climbing Mount Elgon, it was an incredible experience to take in Elgon’s beautiful caldera, which I came to know as the second largest caldera in the world. It was also amazing to see the stunning vegetation at this altitude; it looked like something out of an alien movie.
At the lunch stop, I managed to take in enough food to give me the energy needed to complete this leg of the hike. Day three was by far the toughest part of the Elgon hike up to this point. It was made worse by torrential rain which we had no choice but walk through to make sure we reached the next camp before nightfall.
The last night before we started our descent was by far the toughest of the entire hiking trip. Once again, I was lucky not to have any body or leg aches but at this point my body was beaten to a pulp with fatigue. Having almost fainted the day before, I was weak and completely worn out. I dreamt of taking a long hot shower and sleeping in a warm comfy bed. This was also one of the coldest nights of the trip. Despite all this however, I was excited that this was the last night on the mountain.
For the most part, climbing Mt Elgon was fun and – other than the fatigue of walking 12 hours a day – my body was strong.
Day 4 on Mount Elgon – my biggest fear becomes a reality
The last day of the hike was filled with so much hope and excitement. I was excited to finally be returning to civilisation but, most importantly, I was excited that I would count hiking Mount Elgon as one of my greatest achievements. This experience was definitely one for my books. However, I didn’t take into account what an overwhelming feat it was going to be to climb down the mountain. I was informed that it usually takes 8 hours to get to the bottom (and I thought maybe I would do it in 6 hours). This was not to be.
We set off after a sumptuous breakfast of the Uganda delicacy, rolex. I had learned my lesson from the previous day and started day four with a pretty heavy breakfast. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining and Adolfo and I even signed our names on the camp door before we left. After taking the obligatory final picture with the rest of the team, off I went, literally hopping down the mountain.
The guides did warn me that climbing down Mount Elgon was in many cases more challenging than actually walking up but I didn’t believe them; it seemed a lot easier to start with, until my boots started hurting my toes. Mountain climbing boots are unlike any other kind of ladies shoes (especially high heels, my shoe of choice for most of my daily chores). Mountain boots are tougher and heavier, and can make your feet more sore when it rains. The weather on the mountain changes from hour to hour. Very soon, the warm bright sun gave way to a dark cloud that turned into heavy rain. This made the descent almost impossible and a lot slower than I had tuned my mind to tolerate. I fell hours behind the rest of the team, especially when my boots started squeezing my toes as I tried to prevent myself from falling in the mud.
My biggest fear became a reality: I was holding the team back. Adolfo would wait for me at different stops but it soon became clear that I needed to descend at my own pace because my legs could not carry me as fast as the rest of team. If I tried to keep up with them, I’d hurt myself even more. The worst was yet to come: due to the pressure of the constant downward incline, I hurt one of my knees. The pain was excruciating. My guide, Justin, sympathised with me and remained by my side the whole way down. Adolfo kept encouraging me; for him I made sure I powered through without complaining because I could see everyone doing their best to make it easy on me. It took almost 12 hours of a very slow, very painful slope to reach the team (who waited almost two hours for me to reach them at the rendez-vous spot).
Lessons learned from my first Ugandan hiking adventure
Climbing Mount Elgon was by far one of the best and most exciting holidays of my life. It took me out of my comfort zone and made me realise I am a lot stronger than I ever gave myself credit for. Crazy as it felt, I’m sure I’d do it again… although not for at least the next 6 months!
“One of my biggest regrets is not making it to the peak of Wagagai. We were just four hours away from the summit but were advised that for safety reasons, we should start to descend since we had a 12-hour hike ahead of us. This was the right decision because it ended up being a very exhausting day.”
Tips for climbing Mount Elgon
Through my experience hiking Mount Elgon, I learned some lessons that I feel every new climber should consider before attempting such an activity:
1. Climb with someone you love and care about (better if they have experience hiking mountains). The only person I could ever have done this with is Alfie. Enough said on this one 😊
2. Get in shape before attempting to go hiking. The mountain tests every muscle in your body. Even if I had gone to the gym for almost a month to prepare, I was not ready for how hard it was at times. However, my muscles were very grateful for my weeks of training and it took just a couple of days after I got back to start wearing my beloved heels once again.
3. Invest in the right gear for the mountain. Hiking can be an expensive sport. The right gear is quite pricy but once you are on the mountain you realise that it was worth every penny. Most importantly, ask an experienced climber to guide on the right gear to buy before you make the investment. Alfie went shopping with me and his advice was invaluable.
4. Get the right snacks and food. Biggest lesson learned is that when you go hiking you cannot eat as you normally do. You need high energy foods to get the right calories to take you up – and down – the mountain. Every climber should invest wisely in the right snacks to ensure they successfully complete their climb. Pack enough water because you need more than you originally think while hiking.
5. Most of all, have fun! This is a once in a lifetime experience, not one that’s easy to forget. Choose to make the memories fun. I look back on the videos and pictures we took and they always bring a smile to my face.
The Muzungu adds: I hiked Mt Elgon once and I can feel Jean’s pain! Read my blog “Climbing Mount Elgon – with a girl named Kevin.”
If you enjoy reading inspirational stories by Uganda’s tourism heroines, read Lilly Ajarova’s account of “The euphoric Rwenzori Mountains.”
Pant hoots and knuckle spins – Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest
The muzungu’s experience tracking chimpanzees in Uganda’s Kibale Forest and some tips for would-be trackers!
Chimps are the drama queens par excellence.
Most of my chimp encounters have been here at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest, where we frequently hear their pant hoots and the deep sound of buttress drumming that echoes through the forest. Chimps use this noise to communicate when they find food; it may also indicate the group is about to move. It doesn’t matter how often we hear the chimpanzees, it’s always exciting. We look at each other and ask “what are the chimps up to now?!”
I’ve been wanting to track the chimps for years. My primatologist friend Julia Lloyd led the team that habituated chimpanzees that tourists visit in Kibale Forest. How could I track without her?
However, after a year living tantalisingly close to the forest action, I couldn’t wait any longer: one birthday Cath, a one-time VSO volunteer like me, booked to see the chimps.
I’ve heard stories of multiple groups of tourists converging on the same group of chimpanzees. That’s not what I wanted. I wondered what my experience would be like?
NOTE: I went chimp tracking in Kibale Forest before the pandemic. Scroll down to the comments to read the Standard Operating Procedures that you will be expected to follow if you track chimpanzees or gorillas from now on.
Pant hoots and knuckle spins
“Welcome to Kibale National Park, a tropical rainforest, known as the primate capital of the world because of its high number of chimpanzees. Our afternoon of chimp tracking may take one or three hours.”
Before we embark on our forest adventure, our ranger guide Benson explains how we will be tracking the Kanyantale chimpanzee community who move through the forest in groups. “They are communities rather than tight-knit families like gorillas.” Ntale is the local Rutoro word for lion (not on Kibale’s species list, you may be relieved to hear!)
I’m super excited when I realise that there will be only two of us (plus Benson) for our afternoon tracking. We’ve lucked out!
As we enter Kibale Forest, we see evidence of elephants: broken trees lie across our path. Benson points to muddy streaks on tree trunks, where elephants have been rubbing their hulks to clean themselves – and marking their territory at the same time.
It’s a warm humid day. Our noses detect a fruity smell and Benson points out a chimp’s (night) nest above us. At our feet are half-eaten figs. Among the decaying leaves, roots and tree trunks lie cross farum, big fruits beloved by chimps (and inedible to us).
It’s thrilling to be in the middle of the forest (rather than at its edge). I feel my lungs expand to take in every atom of forest air. It smells so good.
We walk uphill and down. Are the chimps watching us, high in the trees?
Fifteen minutes pass.
Benson tries to contact another ranger but his radio is off. We continue wandering through the forest, but there is no sign of the chimpanzees. They seem to have disappeared.
Are we going to see the chimpanzees? Perhaps today is not our day. I let the disappointment wash over me. I know I’ll have other chances and being in the forest is a delight all of its own, but what of Cath? For her sake, I hope today is our day.
We can’t see the chimps, nor can we hear them. Can Benson?
“Hello. Hello Musa? Hello?” Benson is on the phone. He sounds worried.
“I don’t know where he left the chimpanzees. I am tracking and I have failed.”
I stifle a giggle.
“They are almost at the boundary with Julia’s,” he tells us. “They are moving toward the community” (outside the National Park).
We walk off track, pushing through low-hanging branches and creepers. Our destination is a towering fig tree on the park boundary.
“They are starting to move seriously” and so are we! We are almost running now.
“Look at the knuckle print; it’s fresh!” And there in the soft mud is the perfect outline of a primate’s knuckle. This is what I have come to see.
“Do you hear them?” Benson quizzes us. “Let’s move now, quickly!”
“We are really tracking!” I say out loud.
We hear a noise and pause, assuming it will be chimpanzees. We listen more carefully and recognise it as the Western Nicator, a bird we know from Sunbird Hill on the other side of the elephant trench.
“It’s a big one. I can see it!”
Benson cranks up the excitement levels. “See – more knuckle prints!” We follow, alert. “We should see the chimpanzees any time.”
The knuckle prints stop.
“Look,” he says as he points to a knuckle spin on the muddy trail. “This is where he has turned around.”
We can clearly see where the animal has spun around. We retrace our steps.
“Chimpanzees don’t like wet ground or water.” (Luckily the muzungu has her gum boots on!)
We hear the screams of chimpanzees in the distance. We leave the track and walk across a small wooden plank into the sunlight.
I stumble. In our rush to see the chimpanzees, I fall down a hole that is hidden by leaves and vegetation.
“They are on the ground ahead!” says our guide.
The deep thud of buttress drumming resonates through the trees.
Ahead of me, Cath turns on her heels, wide-eyed and yells at me “THIS IS AMAZING!”
I’m breathless. I expect trees and I expect distance but somehow I have not factored in hills. We are climbing now. There is no path; in our haste, we trip over tree roots and branches. Benson is slightly anxious. He wants us to push on.
I glimpse black fur and a pink bottom. The chimpanzees are on the ground now, pacing steadily forward. We are moving through their territory now.
Piercing screams fill the air.
“WE ARE GOING TO MISS THEM!” Shouts our guide.
With my heart pounding, I pause to catch my breath. We are racing to cross the track before the chimpanzees disappear. I see one chimp ahead of us. We are very close to the park boundary and Julia’s land now.
To our left there is loud screaming. What a din!
Ahead of us two chimps walk on the ground.
“They are inviting the others for supper,” says our guide, now confident.
He points to the female chimpanzee in oestrus (ready to mate). She has a swollen and painful-looking pink bum.
“She is so attractive to males,” Benson adds. Well, clearly! Nine or ten noisy male chimps compete raucously for the three females who are in oestrus.
We crane our necks and look up through the canopy of the tall Ficus mucuso fig tree. Leaves and figs fall around us. Something lands in my eye. The air buzzes with fruit flies.
“See the baby?” We watch a mother chimp with a baby on her back.
Of the 120 chimpanzees in Kibale’s Kanyantale community, we see around 15 individuals.
[I tell you what, it’s difficult to photograph a moving black shadow when you’re straining to look upwards while kneeling in the undergrowth and being rained on by figs!]
“Look one of the chimpanzees is making a nest,” Benson says and points upwards. “Come quickly – before they climb.” (It’s easier to see and photograph the primates on the ground and lower branches). It’s about four in the afternoon.
I don’t seem to be able to walk fast enough right now! Gumboots are no match for the slippery forest floor.
“Tintina is looking for food, he is shy.”
Tintina is one of Kibale’s oldest chimpanzees. He’s 44 years old and “very musticular.” (This Uglish pronunciation always tickles me). He is calm “not like those other guys.” The forest is quiet now and we pause for a few minutes to absorb the moment.
Mzee Tabu! I congratulate myself on recognising Tabu, a well-known elder of the community.
Seconds later, the silence is broken. Screams come from every direction, above us and around us.
We crunch forest debris underfoot as we pick up the pace and stride onwards.
It’s now 4.30.
“But it’s time to go back now,” Benson tells us. “It’s
going to get dark and this is the time for elephants.” Kibale Forest clearly
still has more mysteries for us.
The muzungu’s chimp tracking tips
Chimpanzee tracking is a popular tourist activity, particularly here in Kibale where it’s the main draw for many visitors to Uganda. There’s no guarantee that you’ll see the chimpanzees yet there’s a 90% likelihood you will.
If you’re chimp tracking in Kibale Forest, you can track first thing in the morning or at 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Morning tracking can be easier because the rangers will know where the chimps have slept. Others recommend tracking in the afternoon as chimps are more likely to be down on the ground (so you are not going to strain your neck for an hour!) We tracked on a Saturday afternoon at the end of September.
What should I wear to track chimps?
- The ideal footwear is ankle-high walking boots. There are plenty of holes, hidden tree trunks and tripping hazards galore. Protect those ankles. Trainers don’t give much grip. Gum boots protect your legs from nettles, thorns and ants (but I always feel dehydrated after wearing them for a few hours). Locals will say they like gum boots as they feel protected from snakes! (You are very unlikely to come across a snake when you are chimp tracking).
- Tuck your socks in. This keeps various creatures out!
- Carry a rain jacket. It can start raining anytime in the Kibale Forest. Clue: tropical rainforest!
- Take – and remember to drink – plenty of water.
What else do we know about the chimpanzees of Kibale National Park?
Kibale is home to 1,450 chimpanzees, according to the last census.
Research and tourism concentrates on 500 chimpanzees living in five communities. Three of them are the research communities of Kanyawara, Ngogo and Sebitoli. Two of the chimpanzee communities are open for tourism. Kanyanchu is the base for tracking the Kanyantale group. Barega is where tourists can participate in chimp habituation.
Chimp tracking rules
- Always pay heed to the Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers’ advice.
- Keep a distance of ten metres at all times “but we have those stubborn ones that may come closer” says the ranger. (NOTE: because of high risks of primates catching COVID-19, the 10-metre rule is standard for both chimp and gorilla tracking now)
- Remember we share virtually the same genes. This makes chimpanzees (and mountain gorillas) highly susceptible to our everyday diseases, including Coronavirus.
- You should not enter any of Uganda’s great ape forests if you’re splattering and coughing. Be responsible and don’t track if you have a cold. (If you are ill, permits can be refunded, at the discretion of the authorities).
- If you want to make use of ‘the bush toilet’, go off trail. The guide will tell you what to do and (take your TP back home with you).
- Be as quiet as possible. Do not mimic the vocalisations of chimpanzees. (You don’t want to be responsible for what might happen next!)
- Don’t use flash photography
- You will have maximum one hour with the chimps. Get out from behind the camera 😊
A few facts about chimpanzees
- Every night chimpanzees make a new nest “to confuse predators such as crowned eagles, leopards and snakes.”
- The average lifespan of a wild chimpanzee is 55 years. They can live up to 65 years in captivity.
- A chimpanzee’s diet is fairly diverse (rather like we humans). 40% of their diet is figs, of which there are 13 different types in the forest. 30% of their diet is fresh meat, 10% is wasps, bees and honey. 10% is dead wood and soil which they consume for the minerals. Dr. Jane Goodall – famous for her ground-breaking study of the chimpanzees of Gombe in Tanzania – was the first person to observe chimps eating other animals. She observed them hunt and eat small mammals such as monkeys and watched them use sticks to extract termites.
- A female chimp will be in oestrus (ready to conceive) for 29 to 32 days every four years.
How much does it cost to track the chimpanzees in Kibale?
The cost to track chimpanzees in Kibale in 2022 is $200 per person. For this, you get to spend maximum one hour with the chimpanzees. You have to be 12 years or older to track chimpanzees in Kibale Forest (or anywhere else in Uganda). This age limit has been reduced from 15 years.
How to book chimp tracking permits
You can book chimp tracking permits through Uganda Wildlife Authority, National Forestry Authority (Kalinzu, Bugoma, Budongo) or through a tour operator. Some hotels and lodges can also arrange your chimp tracking tours. Visit my Travel Directory to find a tour operator or hotel.
Grateful every day #LockdownDiaries
A year locked down with nature: Kibale Forest birds – and the occasional rat!
As we approach the one-year anniversary of Uganda’s lockdown, I take a moment to record the everyday sights and sounds of life in my wooden house on the edge of Kibale National Park. It’s easy to forget how different my life is to most people’s. Will I ever live in a modern apartment block again, I wonder?
One of my favourite forest noises is the lead-coloured flycatcher, whose two-tone call is my morning alarm. I don’t want to miss a note of the dawn chorus; in fact, it’s the first thing I miss when I travel. The rich birdsong is the most heartrendingly beautiful start to my day. Nowhere in Uganda can match Kibale Forest for birdsong!
There is little to keep us awake at night, bar the sounds of the forest. Being close to the Rwenzori Mountains, we are also treated to the occasional SHUDDER of an earth tremor. Believe me dear reader, the earth really does move in these parts!
Other night-time noises from the edge of Kibale Forest include Wood Owls, Verreau’s Eagle Owls and Black-shouldered Nightjars. The bark of the bushbuck, the YAHOO of baboons and the eerie calls of the Black and White Colobus Monkeys punctuate the night. This morning we were woken by chimpanzees (jealously guarding a fruiting fig tree); frogs can make a racket too! Sometimes we hear elephants, or at least we are alerted to their presence: the sound of ululating children and the loud banging of jerry cans is the usual signal that we have elephant visitors. They are mostly silent but for the rhythmic swish… swish… swish… as they push through three-metre high grass. When the elephants get too close to our neighbours’ crops, rangers sound warning shots into the air. (Once the elephants were so close to my house, I swear I felt the ground tremble). Once in a while, we hear the splintering of wood as elephants fell trees.
Occasionally, we hear the noise of a container lorry moving over the speed humps that stud the road that runs through Kibale Forest. (Thankfully, we don’t hear them often).
My mornings start with a pot of tea on my balcony (after a quick glance at the floor to see which moths the bat has been eating from its roost high in my thatch!)
Early morning sounds vary according to the season. There are birds galore! The high-pitched twittering of Sunbirds, the squawking of Great Blue Turacos and the whistle of African Grey Parrots are joined by gregarious Black and White Casqued Hornbills that bang their cumbersome-looking beaks against tree trunks as they wipe them clean. Kibale Forest’s birds enthrall me! Primates are infrequent visitors to the family compound but Red-tailed Monkeys are known to raid the fig tree just before dawn (before the dogs wake up!)
Geckos are welcome housemates (they love eating mosquitoes!) They nest in the thatch and I often find their perfectly round white eggs on my wooden floor. Occasionally the eggs splatter to reveal their runny yellow yolk.
A rustle in the thatch generally denotes a gecko so it’s a sound I usually ignore, until recently when something bigger than a gecko moved noisily above my head. The small hole at the apex of the thatch lets in a few inches of light; next to it was the squirming black body of a medium-sized snake, coiled along the rafters! I imagine it had been sunbathing on my roof. (The grass is ordered and we’ll be sealing that hole in the thatch very soon Ma!)
While it’s still cool, I explore the forest edge. “You do know elephants blocked our way last night, don’t you?” Julia tells me. “Well, I do now!”
My morning walk-cum-runs along the edge of Kibale National Park have kept me sane this past year. My series of #LockdownDiaries are inspired by the healing effects of nature. Every day is different, should you choose to notice it: I have learned that rare L’Hoest’s Monkeys do visit the forest edge occasionally; I know that ‘cuckoos follow the caterpillars’ meaning hear a cuckoo and you will notice the caterpillars; it also means peak butterfly season is approaching.
A few days ago I had to do a quick U-turn when I saw three chimpanzees along the path ahead of me. During lockdown, the paths became so overgrown and unused that I would run through ten spiders’ webs every morning. (I could dedicate a whole blog to the various spiders that I share my house with! But would it be as scary as this story about night-time invaders?)
I often return home with wet trainers: the morning dew and wading through the flooded ‘elephant potholes’ trail (churned up by seismic elephant footprints) destroyed half my footwear during lockdown.
Sometimes I disturb monkeys on my morning walks. Tut tut tut they warn me, as I march on, undeterred by them (or the tenacious safari ants that can grab on and bite me, even when I’m moving). Occasionally, I hear the startled run of a bushbuck. It’s rare to see this large antelope but we sometimes hear him. What a loud ugly bark he has!
Back in my house, it’s time for a cold shower. Water is pumped up from the local stream by the solar pump (assuming we have a few hours of sunhine).
Over at the pit latrine – refurbished with a shiny mabati tin roof after the thatch rotted and slowly slid off – live a pair of Blue-headed Agama Lizards. A quivering tail pokes out from underneath the mirror on the outside wall. The mirror wobbles as the lizards hear me approach. “I have seen you!” I snigger.
The back of the latrine door bears the muddy nest of a hornet. I used to be terrified of wasps but I’ve learnt they leave us alone; just allow them their flight path while they’re building their nest (and stuffing it full of live caterpillars for their larvae to feed on) and you will be perfect housemates. Wasps build their nests inside furniture (and occasionally on clothes). Paper wasps are very good parents; they will spend almost every living moment sitting on their nest and will not disturb us humans. We live in harmony.
My day proceeds with a few hours at my desk overlooking the forest. Trees in the family compound grow so quickly that we only have a small window through to the forest at the moment.
The ‘bombs’ from the tall Cordia tree near my house make us jump out of our skins! The small hard fruits smash onto the tin roof of the store cupboard (the family’s temporary kitchen during lockdown). The ‘bombing’ can make for fraught nerves…
On Sunday mornings, we hear drumming from the local church, a few hundred metres from us. It’s low-key and we like it (which is just as well since the same rhythm may rumble for two hours or more!)
Lunch in the village is a simple affair. Most days we eat ‘staff lunch’ of posho and beans. I love katogo of matooke and groundnuts too (now you may understand why I have started running again!)
Mid-afternoon, the house skink runs up and down the wooden posts holding the thatch above the balcony. We regularly eyeball each other. (I hope that damned cat doesn’t get him).
I collect insects – inside my mosquito net. Today I have found a long-horned beetle. Last week there was a praying mantis inside my net. One time I was lying in bed and a rat ran over my foot. Note to self: tuck the net in a bit better!
We do our best to rat-proof, mouse-proof and insect-proof our belongings. If we are not careful, stuff gets munched. Food scraps must quickly go in bins with lids; dry goods must be in sealed plastic containers. Soap and computer cables are other favourite foods of rodents. Clothes must be shaken before wearing: one day Julia’s mum put on a jumper. A skink jumped out of it, then another, then another!
My open-air shower doubles as a washing-up station. Showering, birdwatching and doing the dishes – this is multitasking ‘forest-style’.
My life here as blogger in residence at Sunbird Hill is ‘a happy accident’. I moved here – temporarily – three years ago. It’s been an incredible place to spend lockdown and I am grateful everyday.
It doesn’t mean I don’t miss Kampala (but let me not start on the list of places and people that I miss!)
We toast goodbye to the working day with the occasional sundowner. Uganda Waragi – with freshly roasted ground nuts – is the tipple of choice. It’s usually dark by 7 o’clock and we retire early. I surround myself with books and immerse myself in podcasts. I sleep early, eagerly anticipating the next dawn chorus!
If you enjoy the Muzungu’s dispatches from the forest, read my #LockdownDiaries series and A forest wakes up.
A forest wakes up
Birdwatching my way through lockdown in Kibale Forest
Lockdown has found me on the edge of Kibale Forest in western Uganda where I live in a thatched wooden house on stilts a few hundred metres from the elephant trench that marks the boundary of the National Park.
Dawn chorus on the edge of Kibale National Park is so hypnotic that I’m regularly awake by 6.21 every morning, eager not to miss the Lead-coloured Flycatcher’s soothing two-note call, my usual morning alarm.
By contrast, the past few awakenings have been rather jarring. They may be grand birds on the wing but, when they are calling from your roof, Hornbills are not always so welcome!
I spend the first hour of every day birdwatching and drinking tea on the balcony at the front of my house. Here on the Equator, it gets light around 7 o’clock throughout the year.
The black-and-white Casqued Hornbills are bouncing around the fig tree before dawn. One hop, two hop, a Hornbill with a black head and matching casque hops up and down the tree boosted by a big flap of its wings. The branch sags low under its weight. The bird picks a small green fig the size of a Malteser with its cumbersome-looking beak. It throws back its almighty casqued head to swallow it. (It looks like a lot of effort for a tiny fruit). These sometimes-clumsy birds are dainty eaters. Who would have guessed?
A pair of Hornbills are joined by a third. As I watch, bird number one feeds the third one. Could this giant be their baby? They wipe their beaks left and right against the lichen-covered trunk. A bird bangs its hollow casque on a branch; the unusual noise fills the air.
There’s a flash of blue! The first of the Great Blue Turacos glides in.
Another Hornbill glides down onto a branch on the edge of Kibale Forest 500 metres from where I’m sitting. I trace its distinct silhouette against the dark green background.
It seems impossible that my movement might scare these noisy birds, but they panic easily. Seven Hornbills fly noisily into the forest. Smaller birds scatter in their wake.
The light is too poor for the camera so I just sit and watch. A pair of Ross’s Turacos hop and creep up the tree trunks. I contrast the dainty hops of the Ross’s with the clumsy antics of the Great Blue Turacos bouncing and crashing through the branches.
The sound of heavy wing beats signals the arrival of another Hornbill; a second loud wing beat follows close behind. They settle in the fig tree. Single caws suggest happiness and contentment.
Small birds swoop in twos and threes. They are non-descript in the early morning light. As the minutes pass, their blue sheen confirms they are purple-headed starlings.
Violet-backed Starlings now number more than 20. In bright sunshine, the plumage of these same birds appears bright pink. I love the seasonal twittering of flocks of starlings.
The caws have subdued. Six Hornbills sit silently except for the occasional beat of a wing as they move through the branches, scouring the tree for figs. The slender branches of this inconspicuous tree are stronger than they look.
From the village a few kilometres away, I hear the repetitive cawing and screeching of more Hornbills. As I watch the tree over the days and weeks that the figs are ripe, I notice a pattern: the Hornbills call loudly from the village before one, two, three birds fly towards the forest. They pause here at Sunbird Hill for a few minutes before resuming their flight to the forest where they pass the day. Wave after wave of twos and threes pass overhead every morning and evening.
By contrast, Great Blue Turacos can – believe it not – be far quieter.
I recall a morning when I heard leaves dropping from the canopy of another fig tree by my house. I looked up, amazed to see 12 GBTs gobbling figs. When the fruits are ripe, turacos glide in stealthily; the only thing you might hear is the whirr of wings, not a single call. While they feed, the only sounds are leaves and figs dropping to the ground. Disturb them and the mass evacuation will be panicked and noisy! Their feeding habits are in marked contrast to their otherwise gregarious behaviour.
I once spotted both Meyer’s and African Grey Parrots feeding in this same tree. “It’s very rare to see these two parrot species together” said our friend Ronald, a ranger and tourism warden with the Uganda Wildlife Authority.
A Hornbill heaves into flight. It flies head-first in my direction, veering to the right as it passes within ten feet of me.
One, two, four Hornbills depart for the warmth of the sunlit trees on the forest edge. There is a moment of quiet.
With little noise and no drama, the Great Blue Turaco population of the fig tree now numbers eight or more. The diversity of large fruit-eating birds is a sign of the forest’s abundance.
A flash of grey feathers catches my eye as I am sitting at the laptop. Seconds later, this striking Lizard Buzzard (plus wriggling lunch) lands in the tree a few metres from my desk. The remains of a long tail suggest it was eating a snake. (It was intriguing to note the reptile’s tail was still flexing, five minutes into the lunch session!)
Mid-afternoon the birdsong is almost deafening. (Who can work with so much distraction?) I am drawn onto the balcony to just sit amid the music. Two species of starlings entertain me. The African Blue Flycatcher and Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher weave colourful patterns in the lower branches of the fig trees. After a short absence, the Black-and-white (Vanga) Shrike flycatchers are back. A flash of red signals the head feathers of a Yellow-spotted Barbet. Hairy-breasted and Double-toothed Barbets are occasional afternoon visitors. Last year, this same fig tree was full of Barbets for several weeks; this year Hornbills, Turacos and Starlings steal the show.
As dusk approaches, a primate face peers through the bright green foliage of a medium-sized tree. It’s a dark-haired monkey with a white snub nose and white cheeks. It leans forward to grab young shoots and reclines to reveal a white belly. It’s one of many monkey visitors to the ripe fig tree. Each species has their timeslot; the Red-tailed Nkima Monkey appears after birds have had their fill.
I wrote this episode of my #LockdownDiaries for Alan Davies and Ruth Davies who are best known for identifying a record-breaking 4,341 bird species on their gruelling one-year world tour. You can read the original story on their website: A View From Uganda – A Forest Wakes Up – Kibale National Park. Alan and Ruth are regular birdwatching visitors to Uganda and we hope to see them here at Sunbird Hill one day!
Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo goes virtual! Register now
Uganda Tourism Board launches POATE 2021- Uganda’s first ever virtual tourism expo
Article republished with kind permission of author Kojo Bentum Williams of Voyages Afriq. March 11th 2021.
Register for the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo 2021 and download the event app
The Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) has launched the 6th Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE 2021), which for the first time-ever, will be held virtually.
The 3-day event is scheduled to take place on 27th – 29th April 2021 under the theme “Restarting Tourism for Regional Economic Development.”
Speaking at the launch event on March 10th, CEO of UTB, Lilly Ajarova said, “Well aware that different players in the sector were affected variously, the key focus of POATE 2021 will be on four major sub-topics: Recovery, Rebuilding, Reconnecting and Rebooting the sector.”
CEO of UTB, Lilly Ajarova photographed with Hon. Godfrey Ssuubi Kiwanda, Uganda’s State Minister for Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities
“In light of the current climate in which there are multiple travel restrictions, especially in some of our key markets, as well as the need to ensure safety for all participants, POATE 2021 will exclusively be virtual.
“We have built a specialised virtual meeting platform that shall facilitate one-on-one meetings, virtual speed networking sessions as well as live conference sessions for domestic, regional and international tourism players.”
Participants for POATE 2021, according to the CEO, will be vetted through a set of criteria that has been developed by the national organising committee to ensure they are of the right calibre to showcase Destination Uganda’s offering.
“In line with UTB’s recovery marketing strategy, hosted buyers and exhibitors will be sourced from the existing core and emerging source markets within the East African Region (Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda), rest of Africa (Egypt, Nigeria, South Africa) and the international markets (North America, UK and Ireland, Germany speaking countries, Japan, Gulf states and China and the new markets of France, Belgium and Netherlands.”
“Participating hosted buyers will be sourced through the newly procured Market Destination Representative firms (MDRs) following a ratio of 80:20, in favour of core markets,” she revealed.
Ms. Lilly added that they hope to build on the successes of POATE 2020 where Uganda registered a 138% growth in exhibitors (from 63 exhibitors in 2018 to 150 exhibitors in 2020) and leveraging the power of the internet. This year we expect to attract more than 200 exhibitors.
POATE is a tourism exposition organised annually by the Uganda Tourism Board (UTB). It brings together all of Uganda’s tourism stakeholders for the greater purpose of individually showcasing their potential to the world on one hand, and jointly, to raise the profile of Uganda as a competitive and attractive destination for domestic, regional and international tourists.
The Muzungu adds: since the advent of the pandemic, Uganda has had a number of initiatives to promote domestic tourism. Read all about Lilly Ajarova’s climb of Margherita Peak in the Rwenzoris.
Do you want to register for the 2021 Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
Click here to register for POATE2021. It’s free.
After you have completed Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo registration, you will be sent a link to download the event app (which is called Whova). Install the app, click on find my event and type Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (or POATE). The app is an excellent resource and easy-to-use – but you won’t be able to use it until you have registered. Once you have access to the app, you can build your profile and start connecting with people. Look for attendees (bottom of the screen) and connect with me Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu. See you online!
Are you ready for the virtual Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
“I have liked you”
Gonja and roasted goat: bus travel from Kampala to Fort Portal
The bus from Kampala to Fort Portal leaves at 7 o’clock in the morning and I am told to be there an hour beforehand. I catch a boda boda across the city as the early morning traffic gathers. It’s refreshing to be driving through the cool early morning air with my bag packed for five days on the edge of Kibale Forest – away from the laptop.
Our boda heads downtown – avoiding a certain saloooon – where we are surrounded by thousands of people all jostling to get to work, to sell their wares, gearing up for the day ahead.
As we turn a corner, a tall man in bright green overalls shouts “Link? Link?”
I wasn’t sure where to find the Link bus park but there’s no mistaking the man in green who runs up the street to a yard filled with buses of the same bright green. The word LINK is written in large yellow letters.
I don’t have change (balance) so the man in green offers to take my money and buy a ticket for me and come back with the change for my boda boda. No thank you. He seems legitimate enough but I’m wary. (Once-upon-a-boyfriend-ago, a similar move in Cairo by a very helpful stranger separated us from all our money – on the first day of our holiday). Alert for similar tricks, I walk to a shop opposite the Link bus station, buy two bottles of water and have the change I need to pay for my boda boda and my bus ticket without using an intermediary.
On board I squash myself in near the back of the bus. I choose to sit near a lady and her baby. She beams at me as I sit down.
“But I need some water,” she says very loudly (to me?)
I’m not sure what I’m supposed to make of this so I choose to ignore her.
Before the bus departs for Fort Portal, a man walks up and down the aisle selling cakes. A small round cake is 500 Uganda shillings; a big square slab of cake is 1000 shillings. I opt for the smaller cake to accompany my breakfast apple.
The bus leaves on time.
I check WhatsApp while we are still in town. The guy next to me seems very interested in everything on my phone screen. “Ooo Facebook!” He exclaims. I try and ignore him and shield my screen from his interested eyes. His gaze keeps coming back to my phone. I glare at him. Out of the corner of my eye I see his ‘Nokia’ phone. I guess he is envious of my Smartphone. I feel bad for thinking mean thoughts.
We are seated one row in front of the back row. In my rush to get a seat I have (again) forgotten how I will regret sitting over the back wheel of the bus.
As the bus hits the open road to Fort Portal, phone networks go off and everyone settles down for a snooze. There’s a blast of cold wet air. Every time we slide the window shut, the juddering and shaking of the vehicle reopens it. The lady pulls the blanket over her child’s head. I try and keep myself warm by putting my bag on my lap.
The lady is trying to keep the window closed to keep her baby warm. The man sitting between us has fallen asleep. “Typical husband,” I think. “He’s asleep while she’s worrying about the baby.” I’m worried the baby is as cold as I am, so I fold a small piece of paper and pass it to her, thinking she may be able to use it to wedge the window shut. “Do you want me to put it out of the window?” She motions.
No!
I doze and am woken by the ringing of a phone. This lady does love to chat. I hear her cough and I get up to retrieve the second bottle of water from my bag. If she’s breast-feeding, she must need water.
We are halfway to Mubende before I buy my ticket. The ticket seller slowly works down the aisle, writing out each ticket by hand. The guy next to me peers into the pocket of my bag. I try and retrieve my money without showing him exactly how much I am carrying. He’s craning his neck to have a good look. The guy selling tickets doesn’t have enough change so he writes 5,000 UGX and his signature on the back of the ticket to denote that he has to pay me my balance.
At Mubende, plastic bowls full of roasted gonja and cardboard boxes of water and sodas are pushed up to the bus window. Someone waves roasted meat at us through the gap. I opt for a chapati. “Roasted or dry?” The young man asks me helpfully. I understand enough of the lady’s Luganda to know that she is complaining about the prices. She sends the young man to the shop with her order for orange squash and goat.
“I have liked you,” she said. “You can give me your number so I can call you.”
She tells me that she is going to Kasese (the stop after Fort Portal) to visit her parents for a few days and that she will go back to Kampala to see her husband.
“I thought this one was your husband?” I ask.
“No. This one I just met him on the bus.”
The young man jumps back on the bus brandishing wooden skewers of glistening roasted goat. He offers me one. It’s kind of him but I’m not in the mood for roasted goat. (I also recall the advice not to accept food or drink offered by strangers on public transport). This pair seem kind enough though.
He removes the flimsy bag (polythene paper in Uglish) from around the meat and screws into a small ball. He passes it to the woman who knows exactly what he wants her to do with it: she forces it out of the window.
He sits next to me, tearing at the meat with his teeth. His teeth hit a bone which he spits at his feet. A small heap of goat bones accumulate on the floor between us. The smell of roasted meat fills the air.
The chat chat chat starts again. I like this couple. She and her baby remind me of my niece and her baby. She is loud but friendly. He reminds me of someone from the village. He appears uneducated but innocent.
More passengers squeeze onto the bus. A lady passenger places her big bag on the aisle and sits on it and we’re off again. I am still standing up when the driver slams on the brakes. The guy next to me grimaces; I hang onto the side of the seat. There’s never a dull moment on the bus to Fort Portal.
On the other side of the aisle is a Muslim lady wearing a bright yellow headscarf and pink lipstick. She wears a bold kitenge print dress and an eyeful of cleavage.
I pull out a large tourist map of Kampala, fully expecting the young man to ogle at it and start asking questions. I’m rather pleased with my new map: KCCA have launched a tourism map of the city and I’m interested to see which places feature on it.
Nothing! The young man doesn’t even glimpse over. I read the map, unfold it, turn it over, fold again. I’m amazed – the guy doesn’t register interest even once! Is tourism just ‘a white people thing’ I ask myself?
I ask myself: I wonder if he can read? Or perhaps it’s only money and phones that make him tick?
The ticket inspector returns to check our tickets and I politely remind “sebo (sir)” whether he has my balance yet. He doesn’t seem to hear me.
“*Gwe!” Yells the young man, trying to back me up.
*It’s a little rude considering “Gwe” is old enough to be the young boy’s father!
Road travel from Kampala to Fort Portal via Mubende – tips for travelers
- There’s a universal price of 300 ugx for a short call whether at Kampala Link bus station, en route at Mubende or at the bus station in Fort Portal.
- For the best HOT gonja and chicken, buy directly from the women who are grilling (on the way back from the toilet!)
- If you take the afternoon bus from Fort Portal, you may be lucky enough to see the sun set over Lake Wamala. What a wonderful, unexpected sight that was.
- Link have made a lot of investment over the past few years: new buses, redesigned depots and generally helpful staff. The CCTV security system at the Kampala depot is another positive development too.
- Buying bus tickets is a lot easier and more secure since Link introduced a new digital ticketing solution with the KaCyber app. It’s great because it promotes social distancing (avoid the scrum at the booking office!) Book your ticket in advance and pay using mobile money or PayPal. The KaCyber Go App is free to download but not available on all Link bus routes yet. The app is particularly useful now since it is a ‘contactless’ solution (no need to touch money or paper tickets so no need to sanitise your hands!)
- I wrote this story before COVID-19 disorganised us.
- Diary of a Muzungu readers know I regularly take the bus from Kampala to Fort Portal and in October 2020 I took my first bus journey of the pandemic. All travellers have to wear facemasks and everyone’s hands are sprayed with disinfectant. I sat between one empty seat and the aisle. For social distancing purposes, the pattern of vacant seats was repeated throughout the bus.
Do you travel by bus? What are your travel tips? If you enjoy my bus journey stories, I have plenty more 😎
The euphoric Rwenzoris!
What heights will you reach in 2021? Last year Lilly Ajarova pushed herself to summit Margherita, the Rwenzoris’ highest peak. She shares her inspiring story here.
Reaching the peak Margherita gives you a feel of being on top of the world, everything feels below you, it’s euphoric.
Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board
In December 2020, a team of climbers embarked on an ascent of Margherita Peak, the highest point in the Rwenzori Mountains at 5,109 metres (16,762 ft). The group took a nine-day fact-finding hike to Margherita Peak with Rwenzori Trekking Services in partnership with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Uganda. You can read more about the Take on the Pearl domestic tourism campaign in Uganda in new drive to market Mt Rwenzori by Titus Kakembo. Oh how I wish I had been with them!
Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.
Lilly Ajarova
Below, Lilly shares her personal account of climbing the Rwenzoris.
When 2020 started, we all had plans, but then the unexpected happened and for most, those plans were no more.
But in all this I had one plan that I didn’t give up on: I hoped and believed I would achieve it.
My plan was to hike Mount Rwenzori in 2020. It’s not easy to explain why this was important for me but most importantly it was about pushing myself to the limits, challenging myself to do something that I would look back and say “this was worth it.”
We kept planning for the hike and postponing it until we finally settled on a date. In December, I and a group of passionate hikers started the journey.
It wasn’t easy but there was a determination by everyone that kept us going. Each time I looked at the faces of other hikers, beyond the sweat I could see a story, a story so personal that I believe each will tell theirs. We were all out there – each with a story on why they were doing this, but we all had one goal: to reach the highest peak of the Rwenzoris – Margherita!
I have challenged myself to many things over the years but this one meant a lot more. We were in the Rwenzori mountains at a time when the tourism industry has been hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. In a way we were doing this hike to bring back hope to the tourism sector, to inspire others to also take upon such challenges.
There is this unexplainable feeling you get when you reach the highest peak: it’s a moment of triumph, just that this is a different kind of triumph.
You look back at the number of days it has taken you to get here, you remember the emotional and physical strain. You’re tired but not tired. For a moment you stay silent and let it all sink in because you still can’t believe that you managed to do this. Even with all the fatigue you still gather the strength to smile for a photo moment because some memories can’t just be described by words. And then silently you just say “I did it, we did it.”
I say “We did it” because no-one can claim this achievement alone; it’s a team effort. A lot of people sacrificed and put their time in to make sure this was a success, and I am so grateful to all that made this possible.
As we come close to what has been a year full of challenges and uncertainties, my hope is that as long as we wake up each day – alive – let’s challenge ourselves to do something great. It doesn’t have to be hiking Rwenzori but let it be something that puts your spirit and determination to the test.
Let it be something that when you look back, the feeling is satisfying for you.
That’s the experience hiking Rwenzori has given me. I now – more than ever – understand what one can achieve with courage and determination.
I wish that as we start 2021, we all have something we shall challenge ourselves to. I hope that we don’t stop dreaming and having big goals. Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.
The day I came back from the hike, one of my sons asked me “So, what next now that you have reached the highest peak of Rwenzori?”
I really didn’t have an answer, but I believe that as long as we are still alive there are other highest peaks in life that we should always challenge ourselves to reach.
Wishing you all a Happy New Year and may 2021 be the year which you climb to as many highest peaks in life as possible.
Lilly Ajarova, Uganda Tourism Board #VisitUganda #TakeOnThePearl #TulambuleUganda
About the Rwenzori Mountains
The 996 km2 Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, a Ramsar site (for its “wetlands of international importance”) and an Important Bird Area. And you haven’t visited yet?
Uganda’s RMNP is located in the 120km-long and 65km-wide Rwenzori mountain range that forms the border boundary of western Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is the highest mountain range in Africa. Margherita on Mount Stanley in the Rwenzoris is Africa’s third highest peak, after the volcanic peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m).
More than 70 mammal and 217 bird species have been recorded in the Rwenzoris. The best place to see these is in the montane forests at lower altitudes. Famous stand-out species you might see are the vibrant Rwenzori Turaco and an assortment of colourful chameleons.
Rwenzori mammals include the eastern chimpanzee, l’Hoest’s monkey, blue monkey, golden cat, African forest elephant, (the disturbingly loud nocturnal) southern tree hyrax, yellow-backed duiker and the endangered black-fronted duiker. Did you know that 19 of the Rwenzori’s bird species are Albertine Rift endemics (meaning they are only found in this corner the world)?
Have you seen Africa’s botanical big game?
Beyond the boggy moorlands, hikers cross valleys and waterfalls, rivers and lakes as they pass through evergreen forest, bamboo forest, colourful heather, and Afro-alpine zones. It is this unusual diversity of vegetation – much of it unique to the Rwenzoris – that makes the environment so memorable. The giant lobelia and groundsels at higher elevations have earned it the name “Africa’s botanical big game.” For most hikers, the fabulous scenery of the foothills is more than enough to stretch the limbs and inspire the soul. Hiking to one of the peaks is only for the fit and the well-prepared but determination is rewarded with spectacular views from seasonally snow-capped peaks and glaciers.
Lilly adds “Mt. Rwenzori is the third highest mountain in Africa, it is a mountain like no other. It presents a combination of a stimulating terrain, the rarest of vegetations, sights and sounds of magnificent waterfalls and the bluest of lakes, all climaxing in breath-taking glaciers and snow-capped peaks. Rwenzori Mountains National Park presents tourists with a more fulfilling and yet, crowd-free hiking experience that you will not find on many mountains across the world.”
Have you visited the Rwenzoris? Or do you plan to hike Margherita or Weissmann’s Peak?
Feel free to ask me questions here or visit my Travel Directory for recommended tour operators who can organise your hike. Oh yes, and take me with you 😉
