One of the (few) things that I miss about Europe is the architecture. The continent’s rich history is preserved and celebrated through houses and office blocks, castles, and palaces. The collective history of these buildings can be traced back centuries.
My early career was spent working with architects in London and my mantra was always to ‘look up’ – to explore what was going on above street level, beyond the modern signage and the shop facades.
Uganda has some interesting old buildings but many are under threat from developers who would rather put up something new than re-purpose an existing structure. Although some buildings may look dilapidated now, there’s no reason why most can’t be given a face lift. In Europe, heritage is a big business.
I was therefore delighted when Verity from CCFU told me all about a brilliant initiative that aims at preserving what remains of Uganda’s unique built heritage. I have visited the Baha’i Temple and Jinja’s old buildings fascinate me; I often wonder at the history of the old buildings along Kampala Road. It’s now easier than ever for you to explore these and many more places yourself. If you work in tourism, how can you include these places on a tour?
The app features over 60 buildings that represent Uganda’s architectural history, covering the pre-colonial era and post-independence Uganda.
Uganda’s Built Heritage app brings Uganda’s history to life as you walk or drive down the street!
Click here to download Uganda’s Built Heritage app from Play Store (Android) or App Store (iPhone). The app is free
Three high-quality maps have been produced to help tourists and members of the public understand and appreciate the history around us. The maps detail the historical buildings and sites for each of the three cities with a clear annotated street plan.
Click on the links above to download PDF versions of each map or visit the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda
“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks: Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe” presents beautiful pictures that were taken exclusively for this project. The narrative sets the 60+ locations in their historical, social and political contexts and highlights why they still matter today.
This book bears witness to the richness of Uganda’s historical buildings and sites (some hidden, some prominent) surrounding us in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe. From the legacy of pre-colonial kingdoms to the introduction of western education, medicine, and religions, the growth of commerce and industry, through to Uganda’s forging a new independent identity, this book documents the country’s story through those historical buildings and sites that still stand today.
The book is available at Aristoc, Kardamom & Koffee (KAR Drive in Kololo), Entebbe airport departure lounge bookshop and from CCFU’s office on Makerere Hill. The book is priced at 150,000 UGX.
Urbanization, rapid population growth and the drive for modernity have created a constant demand for higher-density development (such as multi-story apartments). These are often on plots which are already occupied by historical buildings and sites. As a result, many heritage sites have already been lost forever. The risk of losing more of the county’s heritage is real and needs to be addressed as a matter of urgency.
Loss of historic sites means a lost connection with a shared past. Without the unique features of the built environment, one Ugandan city risks becoming indistinguishable from any other. Each building has a story to tell about the people who lived or worked there and about the history of Uganda.
This issue is recognized internationally through Sustainable Development Goal 11, reflecting a global realization that many urban cities are expanding fast and risk losing their historical and cultural identity if heritage infrastructure and associated cultural values are not preserved and promoted.
National and local government are strongly encouraged to “identify, list, protect and promote historical properties in their respective cities and to serve as examples of preservation champions to other municipalities.”
On African World Heritage Day 2019, the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) with support from the European Union together with Ugandan partners launched a mobile app, three maps, and a photographic book. The aim of the project? To protect the posterity of historical buildings and sites in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe.
The three products illustrated here are the result of a year-long collaboration to mark the 2018 European Year of Cultural Heritage “which provided an ideal opportunity to share the European experience with like-minded Ugandan institutions.” The Embassy of Ireland is also acknowledged for its role in the early days of this project.
The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) is a national not-for-profit NGO, dedicated to promoting the recognition of culture as vital for human development that responds to Uganda’s national identity and diversity. CCFU was founded in 2006, premised on the conviction that positive aspects of culture can be harnessed to bring about social and economic transformation. For more information visit the CCFU web site email ccfu@crossculturalfoundation.or.ug or call +256 (0)393 294 675 / 7.
If you enjoy history, you might like my pictures of Kampala railway station and Nairobi railway station.
This week a team from the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities (MTWA) and the Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) are in Egypt – this year’s host of the Africa Cup of Nations – to promote and market Destination Uganda alongside the Uganda Cranes, the national football team.
The Africa Cup of Nations (AFCON) attracts travelers from all over the world providing a great opportunity for Uganda to market her tourist attractions.
“Egypt is a well-known world over for the pyramids and the River Nile. As the country that has the source of the Nile, we feel that this is a great opportunity to market the source of this river as well as our tourism potential to the rest of the world while utilizing this sports platform,” says the State Minister for Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, Hon. Godfrey Kiwanda.
The Uganda Tourism Board has set up a hospitality tent in Egypt to provide information about the Pearl of Africa’s tourism attractions, with emphasis on the uniting attraction that is River Nile.
Lilly Ajarova, CEO of UTB explains: “We have invited dignitaries from all the AFCON 2019 participating nations and we shall treat them to the Ugandan experience. We have also planned an open day where everyone will be invited to try out the Ugandan cuisine, learn the Ugandan culture as well as experience Ugandan hospitality.”
“Football is the world’s greatest sport viewed by billions of fans across the globe. In Uganda, Cranes is the greatest football brand”
The Uganda tourism team’s presence in Egypt follows the Ugx 200m ($50,000 +) sponsorship agreement signed between the Federation of Uganda Football Associations (FUFA) and UTB, the official tourism partner. This partnership gives the Uganda Tourism Board the chance to brand Uganda Cranes and work together to promote both domestic and international tourism.
Ajarova adds “Football is the world’s greatest sport viewed by billions of fans across the globe. In Uganda, the Cranes is the greatest football brand – but more importantly, they are the leading sporting ambassadors to the region and the world. We want to open up brand Uganda to the massive sports audience where our national team participates.”
FUFA 1st Vice President, Justus Mugisha said that “We are using the power of sports to position Uganda on a global scene. We are proud to be in partnership and we hope to continue building our nation through sports and tourism.”
Earlier in 2019, UTB signed a partnership with the Uganda Golf Union to promote countrywide golfing tours. It is likely that additional new sports tourism activities will be launched.
UTB sign agreement with FUFA. Kampala Uganda, June 2019. VisitUganda
The Uganda Cranes are making a second consecutive appearance at the biennial AFCON event. They won their first match (against the Democratic Republic of the Congo) and today – June 26 – the Cranes play Zimbabwe. The final group A game will be against the hosts Egypt.
This month marks a year since I left Kampala to move (temporarily I thought!) upcountry. We often wake to the sounds of the forest: chimpanzees, black-and-white Colobus monkeys and Uganda Mangabey. Olive baboons would get into the compound were it not for the ever-vigilant dogs and mid-year, we can expect to hear hungry elephants walking across Julia’s land sniffing out our neighbours’ crops. As I write, a Great Blue Turaco coos from the thatch above my head.
I’m a country girl at heart and love life on the edge of Kibale National Park. Every few days there’s something new to see as changes in the weather attract different insects and birds.
Sarah Treleaven writes:
“Charlotte Beauvoisin first came to Uganda from the UK 10 years ago when she was fundraising for a conservation charity that focused on the prevention of elephant poaching.
She now lives in what is affectionately called “Auntie Charlotte’s cottage”, a tiny building made of wood with a thatched roof. Beauvoisin works from a desk with a view of the surrounding forest.
She spent her first few years dividing her time between Kampala and national parks, but more recently decided to move “up country” to a property owned by a primatologist friend.
Beauvoisin works from a desk with a view of the surrounding forest. The property has a stream and solar power. Neighbouring farmers grow cotton, pineapple and maize – but under the constant threat of elephants and baboons, which emerge from the forest and destroy crops. In recent years, the Ugandan government has launched a successful programme to reverse deforestation that involves paying farmers not to cut down trees.
Sunset reflected in the pond at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest. PHOTO Julia Lloyd
When the Internet works, she keeps a blog of her experiences. But mostly, she enjoys being immersed in nature. “We built a pond to increase biodiversity by attracting birds and butterflies, and within a week the pond was full of frogs and water scorpions,” she says. “It’s inspiring how nature just gets on with it even as we humans try our best to destroy it.””
The muzungu adds:
It’s 10 years since I arrived in Uganda as a VSO volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. That was my dream job – on paper at least!
The community of Kikarara near Ishasha in Queen Elizabeth National Park dance a thank you to the Uganda Conservation Foundation
Work trips took us to Queen Elizabeth National Park where we hung out with the rangers and learnt first-hand from impoverished farmers how elephants would trash their crops and thus their entire livelihoods. It’s quite humbling to live on the edge of such a community now.
Julia’s land touches Kibale National Park and we even have an elephant trench at the end of our garden. It’s funny how life goes full circle isn’t it?
The ‘esteemed’ primatologist referred to in the article is Julia Lloyd, highly regarded in conservation circles for leading the team that first habituated chimpanzees for tourism in Uganda. We’ve been buddies since Uganda Conservation Foundation days. She now runs the NGO In the Shadow of Chimpanzees which is based at Sunbird Hill.
This story was published by @BBC_Capital in April 2019.
New expats frequently ask me where the best places are to live in Kampala and I always recommend trying to live the same side of town as you work. Scroll down and you’ll understand why. Kampala does not have a public transport system as such (it’s all privately owned) but there are many different ways of travelling to and around the city. Here’s the muzungu’s introduction to the different types of transport and a few personal recommendations.
If you’re a regular reader of my blog, you’ll know I’m always up for a new adventure so I’ve tried all the different methods of transport across Kampala.
⦁ Walking
⦁ Cycling
⦁ Boda boda motorbikes
⦁ Cars
⦁ Taxis and special hires
⦁ Matatus
⦁ Buses and coaches
⦁ Train
⦁ Helicopter!
If you’re within walking distance of where you work, then lucky you! My organisation office was in the spare room of my home for my first few years in Uganda and I was saved the hassle of fighting through Kampala’s traffic. I had no idea how lucky I was!
Walking my dogs through the back roads of Bukasa and Muyenga were some of my happiest times in Uganda. Here’s a favourite walk of ours. Once you’re in town however, walking is an altogether different matter.
It’s only in the centre of town and around the central business district (CBD) that you will find decent pavements. In other parts of town, pavements may suddenly end without warning (if they exist). Drainage covers may be there today and gone tomorrow so always tread carefully. If you have kids, forget bringing the buggy to Kampala. You won’t be able to push it very far.
I know very few expats who dare to cycle on Kampala’s crazy streets. I used to cycle when I lived in London but here we have little awareness of cyclists or their safety. You wouldn’t find me cycling around Kampala unless it is down by Lake Victoria or on the quiet hills of Kololo or Nakasero. Save your biking for weekends in Lake Mburo or Fort Portal. (Did you know there is an annual mountain bike tour in Karamoja?)
These are undoubtedly the quickest way of getting from A to B and the city couldn’t function without them. Boda boda drivers are our best friends, our Mr Fix It, frequently our saviours – just choose with discretion. They can be a real menace too. Read my blog How to ride a boda boda.
If you take a boda boda, do yourself a favour and wear a helmet. Don’t just accept a lift from random guys driving past either. Get to know riders from your local boda boda stage or download one of the ‘ride hailing apps’ such as SafeBoda or Uber app in Kampala. Their boda riders are registered and (Usually but not always) bring you a high quality helmet to wear.
Lots of people prefer the comfort and privacy of having their own cars. I bought my car from expat friends and enjoyed the independence of it for many years. What I didn’t enjoy were the many hours sweating in traffic jams at Jinja Road. Neither did I appreciate being pulled over by the traffic police for some minor offence they had just cooked up when they spotted a loan muzungu. (They pick on Ugandans too, I know!)
The weirdest occasion was one Christmas Eve when I was driving through the industrial area. The traffic policeman ahead of me motioned me to pull over. “What have I done?” I asked him innocently. He walked around the car.
“I’m pulling you over for having a faulty rear brake light” he said.
“How could you see that when you were standing in front of me?” I asked him.
“For us, we have special powers” came the reply.
Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a popular post by a former expat.
This is where it gets confusing!
Private cars are called ‘specials’ or special hires.
When a British person like me thinks of a taxi, this is what I see:
![Black London taxi cab. Jimmy Barrett [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons](https://i0.wp.com/www.muzungubloguganda.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Black-London-taxi-cab.jpg?resize=512%2C383&ssl=1)
In Kampala however, ask for a taxi (pronounced taxiiiiiii) and someone will point you to a matatu or minibus. The crowded old taxi park in downtown Kampala is an experience in itself! It can be pretty intense.
The 12 seater minibus taxis (generally white with turquoise ‘go faster’ stripes) are the cheapest way to get around but the routes can be annoying as you have to go into the centre of town to get out to the other side. People often walk a bit, take a matatu and then take the second one or jump on a boda boda for the last part of their journey.
Matatus are very cheap. There are no price lists, no receipts and no timetable. They have set prices but the conductor (who sits by the sliding door and takes your money) will frequently try and overcharge you if you’re a muzungu. It is inevitable but you will quickly get to know what’s a fair price. Most routes charge 1,000 shillings (equivalent to 20 British pence or 30 US cents). If you’re not sure how much to pay, fellow passengers will usually help you out (and scold the conductor at the same time!) Travel with loose change or small notes if you’re using a taxiiiiiii in Kampala.
Matatus are good if you are on a tight budget, have a good book to read and can go to work very early (or arrive home very late). Play with your expensive phone at your peril. Thieves are known to put their hand through taxi windows and snatch phones when you’re stuck in traffic.
The downside with matatus is that they frequently get stuck in traffic, especially around the taxi park and Clock Tower roundabout. It’s not uncommon to sit for one or two hours without moving. Their drivers are often aggressive. Also, you have to be careful of your belongings on these crowded minibuses as there are lots of cunning pickpockets. One friend was relieved of her laptop in a matatu. She had no idea she was being robbed until she got out of the taxi and opened her bag to see her laptop had been replaced by bricks!
If you are using a taxi upcountry, expect to fit a lot more than 12 people in!
Note: Uganda’s matatus are twelve-seater minibuses, slightly different from Nairobi’s matatus which are buses, coaches or ‘coasters’ (slightly smaller than a bus).
Within Kampala city, Pioneer are the only bus company that I know of. Their buses are new, well-maintained with fixed routes, fixed prices and even tickets! Oh how I wish the city had more of these.
If you want to travel outside Kampala, upcountry or across one of Uganda’s borders, buses are safer than matatus, which have a particularly poor safety record. Bus companies I have used regularly are Mash, Link and Jaguar Executive Coaches. Other people also recommend Oxygen, Coast and Modern Coaches. After the latest crash I am not recommending any of them! (But the reality is we don’t always have a choice).
If you are lucky enough to live in Kireka or Namanve, you can even get the train into town! The downside is that the service is infrequent although it does have a daily timetable and it’s very cheap. Click on the image to read more about Kampala’s commuter train service.
I simply love trains. Read about my train travels across East Africa:
I once crossed Jinja Road by helicopter!
When I was a volunteer, I got to know the pilot of the helicopter stationed at International Hospital Muyenga. I begged him for a ride (not thinking there was any likelihood of it).
One morning he called me. “Can you get to the hospital in fifteen minutes? I have to transfer the helicopter to the grounds of the Serena Hotel to pick up a private client. You can hop in if you want to?”
God I was excited – but no sooner had the helicopter lifted off the ground than we were landing again… and that sums up my travel experiences in helicopter!
These days I’m a regular user of one of the ride hailing apps. I use them regularly when I’m in Kampala – but the cars all cost more than they used to.
Although Uber and Bolt aren’t Kampala’s only ride hailing app, they do offer the most flexibility and for tourists and new expats, they are recognised brands that you may already have on your phone. The system works exactly the same way as it does ‘back home’ but cash is always preferred by drivers. Few of them accept credit cards. Very few shops in Uganda accept credit cards – we just aren’t there yet.
What’s great about Uber’s service in Kampala is that they have both cars and boda bodas. However, SafeBoda has 100s of bodas now and Uber doesn’t.
The BBC’s latest big budget wildlife affair is with the Earth’s Great Rivers, specifically the Amazon, the Mississippi and my personal favourite, the Nile.
Last week the muzungu was very happy to find the BBC’s Nile series was literally in full flow. As a shot of the world’s longest river came into view, I recognised the outline of the derelict buildings of Pakuba Lodge in Murchison Falls National Park.
The team made quite a few surprising discoveries thanks to some undercover filming!
From a dictator’s home to a wildlife haven#EarthsGreatRivers pic.twitter.com/IQkYCK0U90
— BBC Earth (@BBCEarth) January 2, 2019
Here’s why you should watch the whole programme (on IPlayer if you’re in the UK):
“For a river that conjures up images of pyramids and pharaohs, the Nile turns out to be a truly surprising river that changes at every twist and turn of its journey. As it flows into increasingly arid latitudes on its journey north it becomes an evermore vital lifeline for animals and people, but only if they can conquer the challenges that this ever-changing river throws at them. The Nile’s story begins in a spectacular, tropical mountain range – the Rwenzoris. Streams plunge from these snowy peaks creating wetlands on the plains below. Here they create a mobile water garden of papyrus reeds, home to one of the world’s strangest birds – a shoebill stork. Though beautiful, clumps of reeds break up and float around creating a challenging environment for would-be fishermen. A stork’s best way of finding prey is to form a rather strange alliance – wily shoebills follow hippos whose great bulk opens up fishing channels for them.
Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga
The Nile’s headwaters create huge lakes in the equatorial heart of Africa – everything here is on a vast scale, especially Lake Victoria which is the size of Ireland. Here vast swarms of lakeflies sweep across its waters on a biblical scale, providing an unexpected feast for local people who trap the insects to make ‘fly burgers’. It is not just Lake Victoria’s immense size which makes it so dramatic. The vast lake has only a single exit channel of ferocious white water – the aptly named White Nile. People come from around the globe to tackle the rapids here which are some of the most powerful and infamous in the world. A local heroine, Amina Tayona (a mum from a nearby village) is brave enough to ride them. Amina has learnt to kayak on these treacherous rapids – and now competes against international athletes.
The next stage of the Nile’s great journey are the wild Savannah lands of Uganda and the awesome spectacle of one the world’s most powerful waterfalls, Murchison Falls. Here, valiant crocodile mothers try to defend their nest against hungry predators. Even though they are such fearsome predators – crocodiles have a weakness which other animals exploit. Watch as cunning Nile monitor lizards try to outwit an increasingly desperate Nile crocodile mother who faces a terrible dilemma. Further downstream is the setting for one of the episode’s most surprising stories. Filmed for the first time using the latest camera-trap technology, cameras reveal strange goings-on at the abandoned country home of infamous and exiled dictator, Idi Amin. Its ruins – in Pakuba in northern Murchison Falls National Park] – are attracting new, wild guests. Many of Africa’s big predators make their home here today.
It would seem the River Nile was higher in 2010 when my dad inspected the Devil’s Cauldron. Top of Murchison Falls
In South Sudan, the Nile river slows and spreads out transforming into a huge wetland – the Sudd (Arabic for barrier). Half of its water is lost due to evaporation here and this is before the river embarks on its epic crossing of the Sahara – a desert the size of China. Every year, the dwindling Nile receives a massive, timely injection of water far to the east. In the Ethiopian highlands, the Nile’s greatest tributary – the Blue Nile – is swelled by the wet season creating some of the most turbulent and dramatic seasonal waterfalls on Earth and forming a spectacular gorge which is nearly as deep as the Grand Canyon.
A warthog family was caught on camera by the BBC in the ruins of an old building
The Blue Nile is a river revered and used in a variety of incredible ways – from mass baptism ceremonies in the ancient Ethiopian city of Gondar to colonies of cheeky weaver birds who use the riverbank’s reeds to build intricate nests. The Blue Nile replenishes the main Nile channel at the Sudanese capital city of Khartoum, the two become one and embark on the epic crossing of the Sahara. The miracle of the Nile is that it has allowed great civilisations to thrive in a desolate and arid region – today and throughout history. From the exotic city of Cairo, to the glories of ancient Egypt, breathtaking photography reveals the extent of the Nile’s power to transport water from one part of world and deliver it to another, building and supporting life.”
ruins of original Pakuba Lodge Murchison Falls Uganda
The last time I visited Pakuba was in 2013 when approximately 70 of us stayed at the (new) Pakuba Lodge. We were in the area to view Uganda’s solar eclipse, a mind-blowing experience that I will treasure forever. I remember Simon Peter, the charming Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger, visiting each tent to reassure us that he would “protect us from leopards and scorpions!” I had heard a rumour of the leopard living in the ruins of the original Pakuba Lodge (but it was the first time I’d heard talk of scorpions in Uganda).
If you ever get the chance to see a solar eclipse JUST GO! This photo was taken from Pokwero near Pakwach in 2013
“Brutal dictator’s home is now a wildlife haven” says the BBC. Although Pakuba Lodge was not President Idi Amin’s home, it was said to have been his favourite hideaway. Pakuba Lodge was one of the original Uganda Hotels chain. (The first Uganda Hotel was built in 1923 and still stands in Masindi). In the 1970’s Idi Amin turned Pakuba into a ‘State Lodge’, for his personal enjoyment. Note to self: isn’t it interesting how a president from a bygone era continues to be the only thing many people associate with Uganda? Idi Amin was overthrown in 1979, a staggering four decades ago.
Murchison Falls is one of Uganda’s prime safari destinations and I LOVE how wildlife populations are recovering – in this case taking back the derelict buildings of Pakuba Lodge. To read more about the River Nile at Murchison and its fantastic birdlife, read “Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron.”
PHOTOS Tweny Benjamin, Tweny Moments
“I saw things.
The 4-day fete ended last night. And I saw things. I saw music and art come together in matrimony. I saw free spirited souls, sticking their noses in the air like greyhounds, chasing for a section that had the loudest and ‘lit’ music. I saw a tribe of happy campers, leaving their warm beds in Uganda’s capital, to sleep on small blocks of mattresses under the stewing Jinja heat.
I saw hungry entrepreneurs, predominantly young people, trying to make an extra buck. From innovative startups like Musana Carts to the famous Kyadondo Pork. I saw young creatives sell apparel to festival goers. I saw tattoo artistes trying to make ends meet an ink at a time.
I saw brands like Uganda Waragi and Coca-Cola feeding people the way Jesus would. In fact, at some point, there was no 750 ML UG – Coconut and Pineapple flavours. They were drank out. I saw business for these brands.
I saw friends from Kigali, Nairobi, South Africa, around the world. A tribe of happy souls speaking one language, wanderlusters, on a hunt for happiness. I saw friends from Tanzania who flew in with #AirTanzania2UG that’s been recently launched.
I saw young DJs like Kampire Bahana making people literally go wild. I saw young photographers like Zahara Abdul and Tweny Benjamin making pictures and money.
I saw Boda Bodas ferrying people from all corners of Jinja town, a business chance that shows up once in a year – September. I saw Java House in Jinja fill up with festival goers looking for a remedy for their hangover. I saw a beeline to the Source of The Nile, local and international tourists queuing up to see River Nile head to Egypt.
I saw hotels and guest houses and lodges booked out for 4 days. I saw performances and talented artistes I would never imagine seeing. I saw a festival in its infant stage, on a runway, picking up to take to the skies. I saw a festival that will be the biggest festival in Africa. A Coachella in the making. A Tomorrowland in the oven. A Burning Man in a potter’s hands.
I didn’t see animals.”
Thanks to Nimusiima Edward who allowed me to share his Facebook update of September 10th 2018.
In its 4th year, Nyege Nyege Festival is undoubtedly Uganda’s number one party festival, with revellers coming from all over Uganda, Nairobi and beyond for the 4 day event. It caused quite a stir last week when Uganda’s “Ethics and Integrity Minister” Father Lokodo wanted to cancel it. This only served to give it an even bigger (free!) publicity boost.
Over the past decade, Uganda has seen a mushrooming of arts, music and dance festivals. The mega Bayimba International Festival of the Arts is arguably Uganda’s best arts festival.
Nyege nyege can be translated as ‘the urge to dance.’ (Jiggy jiggy might be another term for it!)
I loved being back in the saddle again. The smell of horses is addictive!
It surprises me how little leisure time Kampala residents spend next to Lake Victoria, when I know how refreshed I feel after just an hour or two by its waters.You can’t beat the feeling of space you have by the lake which is why, if you’re looking for a new hobby or a day out, I highly recommend some time out at Speke Resort, Munyonyo – ideally on a horse at the Equestrian Centre! High on my bucket list of once-in-a-lifetime adventures is doing a multi-day horseback safari. I used to ride when I was a teenager but I know I need to invest in some more riding lessons before I embark on such a big adventure. My recent stay at Speke Resort – and the smell of the horses! – has really whet my appetite for that bigger endeavour.
Preparing for a horse riding lesson at Speke Equestrian Centre. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo
Some of the Speke Equestrian Centre’s horses. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo
If you’re just having a pony ride or ‘taster’ riding session, you (and your horse!) will be led by an expert from Speke Equestrian Centre down to the marina. The horses are calm and well-behaved.
Prices start from 40k ugx for a 20 minute pony ride. A one-hour hack (for experienced riders) is 70k every day (except Sunday and public holidays when it costs 80k). Rates are slightly higher on Sundays and public holidays. Private or group lessons offer good value for money. Packages of ten lessons are also available. For horse riding enquiries, contact Speke Resort.
In conversation with one of the staff at the Equestrian Centre, he explained that they currently have nine ponies and five large horses suitable for adults. They are expecting to acquire another four horses over the coming months.
In addition to the horses and equestrian facilities, the centre also has a bar where parents and friends can meet for a drink while Little Johnny is learning to ride.
Learning how to trot at the monthly Kids’ Pony Camp
The Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre is a two-day event training kids how to ride ponies. Children between the ages of 4 and 17 are invited to enroll for the monthly Pony Camp that’s been taking place at Speke Resort Munyonyo since 2015.
Saturday morning is a riding session. No experience is necessary as children are grouped into beginners, intermediate or advanced riders. In the afternoon, the children go swimming in the resort’s Olympic size pool. On Sunday morning, children are treated to a full breakfast at the resort, followed by a morning ride. Pony Camp finishes at 12.30 with a small prize-giving and Certificates of Participation. There are prizes for the weekend’s best participants: the top two riders get medals, and the third placed rider is awarded a Best Camper Certificate.
Speke’s Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets
Pony Camps costs 100,000 Uganda shillings for the two days. This includes an overnight stay at the accommodation block (in separate boys and girls rooms) next to the Equestrian Centre. (Parents who live nearby may wish to take their kids home for the night and bring them back the next morning). The Sunday breakfast is included in the cost. (Parents are expected to cater for the kids’ other meals).
Not only is it well-equipped for conferences and large meetings, Speke has a range of weekend activities. On Sunday afternoons at Speke Resort from around 3 PM, you can enjoy a DJ and live band, or acrobats and a market for an entry fee of just 5,000 Uganda shillings per person. Friday night is band night at Lake Terrace and complimentary to guests and everyone eating at the restaurant. Saturdays are frequently busy with weddings and wedding parties. Read Olive’s blog #MarryMeAtMunyonyo – Getting Married At Speke Resort, Munyonyo.
The resort’s swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam are a haven for Kampala residents throughout the weekend. Entry is 40,000 ugx for a full day’s swimming (and all-important lounging!)
Interior of one of the new suites
At the time of writing, Speke Resort’s weekend package is $180 full board (excluding taxes) for two people sharing and includes all the above activities and more: a half hour boat cruise and a 10 minute horse ride for children. Bed and breakfast and room only weekend rates are also available, visit the Speke Resort site for all tariffs.
Speke Resort’s marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba
Prefer a round of golf? Guests staying at Speke Resort can get a preferential rates at Lake Victoria Serena Hotel’s golf course, a short drive from Munyonyo thanks to the opening of the Entebbe Expressway.
For info on any of the above, call +256 (0)414227111 or (0)417 716000 or email spekeresort@spekeresort.com or reservations@spekeresort.com
Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Clare Park, a British tourist who visited Uganda with her family recently. She writes “We are all keen nature and animal lovers and have been to Africa several times before, but never Uganda. We all had a truly, truly wonderful time! Every part of our Uganda holiday was so special. We relive it often through the photos and videos and will absolutely return.”
Clare writes:
I have always wanted to see chimps in their natural environment. I studied clinical language sciences at uni. This included linguistics and the study of chimp versus human communication. It was fascinating. I love all animals, but particularly primates, and would one day like to work with them – ideally studying their non-verbal language.
We recently had the privilege of spending two weeks with my cousin’s cousin Malcolm Wilson who lived in Uganda for 17 years and now lives in South Africa. Malcolm visits Uganda regularly to guide bird (and bird ringing) trips. Kibale Forest was on the circuit he had planned for us to share the wonders of this beautiful country. We stayed with a friend of his who has studied chimps for many years: Julia has a beautiful home overlooking Kibale Forest. It’s a very special place to stay.
The Park family used Sunbird Hill as their base while they were chimp tracking in Kibale Forest. Clare is seated top left. Expert ornithologist and bird ringer / birder Malcolm is seated bottom left.
We were all overwhelmed when we arrived at the stunning location. Sunbird Hill – where Julia has built her family home – is now offering B and B. We were greeted so warmly and, as the sun was setting, were offered gin and tonic – but no ordinary gin – Uganda Waragi gin in a sachet! Even better, there was ice and lemon to accompany the gin – things which we hadn’t been able to get since arriving in Uganda and staying at various other lodges. It was a perfect drink in a perfect location to start our chimp trekking experience.
A pair of Chimpanzee feet, high in the canopy of a fig tree. This photo was taken from Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
The following day my husband Mike, daughters Amy (22) and Bea (17) and son Ed (19) set off to do our much longed-for chimp trekking. Our driver took us to the Uganda Wildlife Authority office 3 km from Sunbird Hill to register for our chimp trekking before setting off. Here we were assigned a ranger who had years of experience with the chimpanzees. The rangers know this chimp community of Kibale Forest intimately, having studied them closely and worked to habituate some of the chimpanzees. Habituation means that when tourists enter Kibale Forest, chimps see them as neutral and continue about their daily lives as if no-one is watching.
After a briefing from our guide about “the do’s and don’ts of chimp trekking” we soon entered Kibale Forest’s tall tree canopy and rich vegetation. Ahead, rangers communicate the location of where the chimps are to be found. We soon located an adolescent female chimp of around 13 years old. She was feeding from a tree when we first saw her, eating some berries. We stood and looked up at her high on a branch enjoying her feast. She seemed unperturbed by us looking on. She then climbed down the tree and set off on the ground at quite a pace. Our ranger indicated for us to follow her, keeping a distance behind her of approximately eight metres. She would occasionally stop, have a look around, perhaps feed on something and then set off again. We had the privilege of her allowing us to follow her on the ground for about forty minutes. At one point she stopped and tore a piece of bark from a tree and started to lick it for fluid and scratch it to remove the bugs. She then put it on her shoulders to carry and set off again. The bark fell off after a few paces.
When you see a chimpanzee with a pink and swollen rear, it indicates she is in season
We were later informed by Julia, the resident chimp expert at Sunbird Hill, that this was a very unusual thing to observe. In her years of studying chimps, Julia had never seen a chimp attempt to carry anything on their shoulders. She was quite excited by what we had seen. We even had video footage to show her.
The female teenage chimp then climbed high into a tree and started feeding on fruits again. We were joined by several other groups of trekkers at this point and it did not seem right to stay any longer, so we headed back to base.
Even though it is usual to see large groups of chimps when trekking in Kibale Forest, the intimacy of being able to follow one chimp at proximity and to observe her going about her daily routine was very special. We learnt a lot about how she moved, fed, climbed, rested, broke wood and carried it. It was interesting to observe her character and note that she wasn’t seeking the company of other chimps. Julia commented that it is quite rare to see a chimp of this age on her own for such a lengthy period of time – and that she let us follow her. We all concluded that perhaps this female chimp had just needed some ‘time out’ on her own!
[A very short clip!]
My family were all very humbled by the time we spent observing her and we took many photos and videos. Nothing quite captures the specialness of seeing a chimpanzee in their natural environment.
The following day I decided I would return and do another trek: I needed another ‘ fix’ of chimps. One morning wasn’t enough for me, given my fascination with them.
After another early morning briefing, I was assigned a group with five other trekkers. Our ranger Moses was informed early on that there was a community of chimps nearby. We set off at a pace.
We approached a slight clearing in which sat several magnificent tall trees with their branches sprawling out horizontally, forming a ‘climbing frame’ for the chimps. Here the screeching of these fascinating creatures started and just didn’t stop. Chimps charged through the undergrowth, banging their feet on tree stumps to create a sound like a drum. Their mouths were open wide, baring their teeth as their vocal sounds rose in a crescendo. There were chimps everywhere – high in the canopy, on the ground, still, active, noisy, quiet – so many, I lost count. Old, young, big, small, feeding, playing, grooming, fighting. The behaviours I observed in that hour of observation are almost indescribable. Every few seconds there was a new noise to turn to, a rustle in the vegetation high or low, the sounds of animals swinging between trees and often dropping from height in pursuit of another chimp, either in play or threat. I took so many photos trying to capture the chaos of what I was witnessing; recordings of their non-verbal behaviour and audio recordings of their vocal communication.
Three chimpanzees grooming. Kibale Forest, western Uganda
We happened across three mature male chimps, sitting one behind each other on a broken branch on the ground. They all sat facing in one direction, the front one turning to the one behind sporadically to groom him. We were less than a few metres away. It was mesmerising watching them.
Two chimpanzees grooming. Kibale Forest, western Uganda
Two younger male chimps sat on the ground, taking it in turns to groom each other, working methodically from the head to the back to the legs. There seemed to be an unspoken rule of how long they groomed before turning around and letting the other groom in return. The non-verbal communication was fascinating to observe.
Another chimp lay on his back on some leaves to rest just in front of us. He rolled onto his side after a big yawn and lay there as if to say, ‘now that is more comfortable.’ It seemed so human.
After the hour of observation (which passed in a flash) we headed back to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s chimp trekking base office at Kanyanchu. Our whole group were somewhat overwhelmed and therefore quiet. Words couldn’t express what we had shared. I had several moments during the hour when my emotions got the better of me; I just welled up with joy at what we were experiencing. It was all just too much, in the most beautiful of ways.
As we headed back to base we had to cross the road which has recently been upgraded and tarmacked for improved access to the tourist area of Kibale Forest. Whilst it was probably needed at a practical level, there were grave concerns around how the increased volume and speed of traffic would impact the safety of the chimp communities. As we reached the tarmac we observed a community of chimps crossing the road – oblivious to the danger of the traffic. Fortunately, the rangers were there to intervene and stop the buses, coaches and other vehicles hurtling around the blind corner just as the entire community crossed: young and old, a baby on a mum’s back. We all held our breath as we watched them safely reach the other side of the road where the forest continued. It was a poignant end to an overwhelming experience and one couldn’t help wondering if modernising the road so traffic could pass through at greater speeds was in fact a big mistake. Time will tell – but there seemed to be much concern, understandably from the rangers.
Once back at UWA’s chimp trekking office, I said farewell to my group members and UWA guide Moses. He had observed how emotional I had been several times and realised just how very special our trek had been. The rangers said I would always be welcome there if I ever wanted to pursue my dream of watching and analysing non-verbal chimp communication, a life-long dream.
One day I will be back in Kibale Forest.
There was the option to do a further day in which you join a habituation group and go out with the rangers and researchers to continue the habituation of other chimp communities. Sadly, my family and I had to head off the next day.
Back at Sunbird Hill, my family were keen to hear how I had got on. At first, I felt reluctant to share just how different that morning’s chimp trekking had been compared to the day before. However, hand on heart, I can’t say one experience was better than the other. They were both totally unique. Observing the female chimp had been so intimate as we got to learn her movements and expressions. The second morning was such a contrast – I lost count of the number of chimps we saw – the noise, the chaos, the movements, the high energy of these fabulous creatures as they went about their everyday socialising. However, I was completely mentally exhausted after the second morning and, once I got back to our treehouse-style hut at Sunbird Hill, I found myself crying uncontrollably at the sheer wonder of what I had seen in the last 24 hours. It was everything – and way more than I could ever have imagined. It is quite impossible to translate the joy and happiness I experienced watching these highly intelligent and fascinating creatures. They are so close to us humans it is quite remarkable – and a little bit ‘Planet of the Apes’!
I think about Kibale Forest often and I know I will go back in some capacity to top up this beautiful lifetime experience.
The muzungu: Thanks Clare for sharing your fantastic experience! We look forward to seeing you again very soon 🙂
The chimpanzees of Kibale Forest have been screeching loudly for the past two weeks. I’ve stayed here at Sunbird Hill many times, but never have I heard them so close or so often.
On the drive back from Fort Portal yesterday, Julia stopped the car along the track to her land to enquire what John (in his bright yellow National Resistance Movement T-shirt) was working on. “I’m looking at the chimpanzees,” he said. And there they were, half a dozen of them, high in a medium size fig tree on the boundary of Kibale Forest.
A chimpanzee sits high in a tree in Kibale Forest bordering Sunbird Hill
Chimpanzee climbing down a fig tree, on the edge of Kibale Forest at Sunbird Hill
Today we venture to the forest edge, tracing the sound of the primates. “One of the females may be in oestrus,” says primatologist Julia, trying to explain the exuberant din.
On our walk, we come across a pile of fresh dung – full of industrious dung beetles. Where did the dung come from? We do not find any footprints – either elephant or buffalo – only a broken Albizzia branch. Elephants are known to love Albizzia trees; Julia has seen the elephants in the very same spot before.
We last saw elephants just five minutes’ drive from here. Julia filmed some Forest Elephants crossing the Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road that passes through Kibale Forest. You can see a short clip on the Sunbird Hill Facebook page below.
I saw a Forest Elephant last week too – from the back of a matatu taxi; the Ugandan passengers (particularly the toddler in front of me) were in awe!
Back at Sunbird Hill, we inspect the freshly-cut trails on our walk back towards the Birders’ Lounge. Flowers, flowers, everywhere: we’ve loved the Aloe flower; the Kagelia’s dark red flowers are striking, even beneath the dark canopy. The vantage point from Julia’s towering treehouse office reveals bright red Jatropha flowers that are not visible from the ground. From here, we have watched the Black-crowned Waxbills weave a dainty nest in the mango tree. The entrance is a narrow tunnel, below the nest itself.
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher incubating eggs on its nest at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest
I’ve never seen so many nesting birds as we see now. The Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher has flown the nest, as has the African Blue Flycatcher. One morning after a heavy storm, Dillon noticed an Olive-bellied Sunbird chick and its nest on the ground. Julia scooped them up (away from the jaws of three dogs and a cat!) and moved them into a safer position. The chick survived. After a week, it was gone… we hope it survived.
It’s quarter to seven in the evening. In the distance I hear the Yellow-spotted Barbet (making a whirring noise, like a woodpecker). Closer by is Easter. We enjoyed his brother Christmas.
I wouldn’t annoy Easter the turkey!
The remaining turkey has had a reprieve. The family has become used to his comical gobbling noises. Easter has been renamed Easter 2019! No-one is in a rush to lose his friendly tones (although 7-year-old Dillon is petrified of this massive bird with an even bigger attitude!)
Today we have had a reprieve from the season’s thunderstorms and drizzle.
April sunset from Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
After Saturday morning’s heavy rain, we had a fiercely hot few hours of sunshine. Stepping onto the veranda at dusk was like walking into a filmset: my friends sat bathed in orange and pink light, in front of a ravishing backdrop of cotton wool cloud sky and the dark outline of the forest. The magical ambience was enhanced by the flickering of a thousand wings, a flight (can I call them that?) of enswa (white ants). They did not fly but floated, rising upwards from the long green grass (which clearly hid a termite mound!) I opened my eyes wide to take in every second of it.
The romance of the moment was short-lived as we batted away insect after insect, picked enswa from inside our clothes, our drinks and everywhere else!
Thankfully the enswa invasion was short-lived. The next day, the veranda – and even my mattress – was a sea of wings. The ants themselves had vanished.
Nights on the forest edge can be very dark. Last night Venus shone brightly above Kibale Forest.
After a few days visiting community tourism projects in Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Julia and I drive north through the crater lakes of Fort Portal and to the edge of Kibale Forest. We swap notes about places we want to visit. We’re usually rushing to one destination, or rushing back to Kampala, but in an ideal world, we’d travel at a more leisurely pace.
Camera required! Admire the eight volcanic Virunga peaks reflected in the lake’s surface as you are paddled across the lake. Combine this with a trip to Kisoro, a hike with the Gorilla Highlands project and a stay at Chameleon Hill.
Strictly speaking, tea is an invasive species and the plantations were created at the expense of ancient woodlands, yet the bright green young tips of tea leaves remain alluring to this Brit (a committed tea-drinker!)
Mabira Forest Canopy Super Skyway is over 200 metres of canopy zip-lines through the tops of 40 metre high trees and across the River Musamya.
Go for the day or stay at Griffin Falls Eco Campsite, Mabira. Here you can see Red Tailed Monkeys and shy Grey Cheeked Mangabeys (if you’re lucky). You can also walk or hire mountain bikes to go on the trails through the Forest. Tell Hussein the muzungu sent you 🙂
Viewing Uganda’s solar eclipse in Pokwero / Pakwach took my breath away. It was spell-binding.
Imagine if you had experienced an eclipse without expecting it? The story of Uganda’s 15th century eclipse at Biharwe changed the boundaries of traditional kingdoms.
Stretch your legs on the long drive west: take twenty minutes to climb Biharwe Hill and admire the monument (sited directly opposite Igongo).
TIP: if you’re stopping for lunch, eat the buffet. If you order from the menu, you may have a very LONG wait … we did.
If you’re a coffee drinker like me, you’ll LOVE Gorilla Conservation Coffee and their brilliant cafe in Entebbe! Do visit the cafe if you’re driving to Entebbe Airport.
Pictured on my T-shirt is Kanyonyi (RIP), the legendary silverback gorilla from the Mubare family. The coffee blend is named after him. Keep his memory alive by visiting the Gorilla Conservation Cafe or buying coffee at numerous outlets across Uganda or online. Gorilla Conservation Coffee is a social enterprise that buys the coffee of farmers – who live adjacent to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – at a premium price. Helping farmers protects the forests and thus the mountain gorillas. Profits from the sale of Gorilla Conservation Coffee support the ground-breaking work of Conservation Through Public Health.
*Gorilla Conservation Cafe has a new location* on Plot 13 Portal Road, Entebbe. Call +256 752 330139. Here you can order a fresh coffee or buy coffee beans to drink at home (a great gift too!)
The crater lakes of Fort Portal are gorgeous.
In this same region are Amabere Ga Nyina Mwiru Caves. (Caves always sound exciting to me!)
Amabere Ga Nyina Mwiru means “the breasts of Nyina Mwiru.” The ‘breasts’ are in fact stalactites made of calcium carbonate. The white-coloured water that drips off thus called “breast milk” by the local Toro people.
Local folklore has a rather gory interpretation of the cave’s name. Enough said on that point (or two points, should I say) …
Thanks to Bosco and Keseloni for making sure I saw my first Narina Trogon on my last stay at the splendid Ishasha Wilderness Camp. What a fabulous bird!
(Do you love birds like I do? Read some of my birding stories here).
You don’t need to track the Mountain Gorillas to love Bwindi’s forest and birdlife. The first time I saw Bwindi’s rainforest, I thought I was going to cry; the place is pure magic. Did you know… Bwindi was voted no. 1 in Travel African magazine’s list of top 10 birdwatching sites?
The plan: overnight at Buhoma Lodge – or the recently refurbished Bwindi Lodge for a real treat – then take the day-long hike across Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to Nkuringo to the south.
In 2013, Robert Brierley hosted us at Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge from where we walked the 17 km Ivy River trail. The lodge is set high on Nteko Ridge between the Virunga volcanoes and the breath-takingly beautiful Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
The Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary tour is entertaining and educational for the whole family. Relaxing, bird watching, crossing the Equator by boat and looking out for the 50,000 fruit bats that fly overhead every evening are other unforgettable Ngamba experiences. All trips must be booked in advance. A stay at Ngamba’s luxury tented camp is highly recommended too.
Unlike the day tour – in which you are separated from the chimpanzees by a high platform and an electric fence – you can have a far more intimate experience with the chimpanzees, if you sign up for the volunteering programme. This takes the Ngamba experience to a whole new level.
Whether it’s cleaning the cages where the chimps come to sleep at night, preparing food, collecting behavioural data, assisting in medical procedures, typing up ‘chimp diaries’, selling merchandise in the Ngamba Island shop or helping maintain the island’s facilities, volunteers on week (or longer programmes) are active members of Ngamba’s dedicated family. You have to meet the Ngamba Island team to appreciate how dedicated they are to each individual chimp…!
Fancy a night in the wild but without the travel to the National Parks? Stay in the bandas at UWEC, the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (once known as Entebbe Zoo). You will think you are in the bush – and may wake up to the sounds of chimpanzees, monkeys – or even a lion!
You can take part in some very cool, interactive experiences at UWEC, such as feeding the animals and walking with Hamukungu Charles, the young elephant (a lot bigger than he was in this photo of six years ago!) UWEC’s Behind-the-Scenes experiences need to be booked in advance. UWEC is open daily 8.30 am – 6.30 pm. Call +256 (0)414 320520 for more information.
Horseback safaris along the northern bank of the River Nile outside Jinja can be for a few hours or even a few days – it’s up to you. Nile Horseback Safaris’ professionally-run riding stables also offer riding classes. Horse riding – and a few refresher lessons! – are high on the muzungu’s travel bucket list this year!
The Throne Room is located in the Omukama – Traditional King’s – (very modern) Palace in Hoima. Here we were told about the “empire of traders, hunters and metalworkers, built and lost on ivory.” The cultural history was illuminating. The experience taught me that I have barely scratched the surface of the country’s history and culture. There’s so much more to touring Uganda than wildlife and adventure. I was honoured to be given the pet name Akiki at our audience with the Omukama, the traditional king of Bunyoro kingdom.
All credit to the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) guides who have plenty of interesting facts about these gorgeous creatures and their stunning bamboo habitat. Just like Uganda’s chimps and mountain gorillas, UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the golden monkeys, so you are (almost) guaranteed to see them.
I stayed at Mount Gahinga Lodge: a hidden gem in a divine part of the country, a few kilometres from the Rwandese border and just five minutes’ walk from the park. Did you know you can also track the gorillas in Mgahinga? Read my multi-page Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking for everything gorilla!
I am fascinated by traditional beliefs and customs. The Nakayima – or ‘witch’ – Tree at Mubende is estimated to be 650 years old and is named after a princess who is believed to have cured smallpox. The tree has 18 “rooms” – these being spacious gaps between the tree’s buttress roots. Read about travel writer Edgar Batte’s visit to the Nakayima Tree.
Every year one million pilgrims congregate in Namugongo, east of Kampala to commemorate the several dozen Uganda Martyrs who were executed between 31 January 1885 and 27 January 1887. Pilgrims travel from across Uganda and East Africa for this event.
The Martyrs Walk across Kampala – launched in 2014 – retraces the last few hours and days of the Martyrs’ fateful journey as they were forced to walk towards their death. Embarking on the Martyrs’ Walk will give you a greater understanding of their contribution to history. The story of St Balikuddembe (namesake of Owino market) will stay in my mind forever. I revisited the Uganda Martyrs’ history when Pope Francis visited Uganda.
In Pakwach I drove past piles of bright yellow smoked Angara fish – without buying any – en route to the best viewing point of Uganda’s solar eclipse, a day I can never forget.
I loved West Nile. Read “10 little-known things to do in Arua, West Nile” to see a few of the new foodstuffs I found there.
This year, the Muzungu has been invited to climb Mount Wati (“what to the what?”)
According to some, Goli in West Nile is the location for the world’s smallest church – although my attempts to verify this have been hit and miss. I need to visit in person. It’s surely Uganda’s smallest church since it’s certainly standing room only. (What a great venue to book if you want to reduce the cost of your wedding!)
Read Solomon Oleny’s story about his visit to the church.
The award-winning Entanda Traditional Hunting and Cultural Experience is a community experience like no other. We jumped off the bus in the countryside near Mityana to be greeted by loud ululating, drumming and singing. We danced as one before being invited to eat the freshest fruits straight from the gardens. Oh my, we ATE! Next, the men in our group were invited to take in part traditional hunting as we ladies were taught how to prepare a luwombo lunch and invited ‘to the bush’ (and what happens in the Bush stays in the Bush!) Oh the stories! This is authentic community tourism at its best.
To visit the Entanda Traditional Hunting and Cultural Experience (AKA “Kojja and Senga’s retreat”) call +256(0) 772 340576 or visit the Entanda Facebook page. Entanda is near Mityana, 60 km along the Kampala to Fort Portal Road. Go visit!
Down at the shorefront restaurants of KLS, there are no frills, just fried whole Tilapia, Nile Perch and reasonably priced drinks beers, sodas and Uganda Waragi gin. KLS is a relaxing spot for watching the sun go down over Lake Victoria. You can also buy fresh fish – gutted and descaled – to cook at home.
It was from here, in the 1870s, that Kabaka Mutesa embarked on hippo hunting expeditions to Lake Bulingugwe and beyond. The hippos are gone, and so is the Kabaka’s fleet of canoes, but Mulungu is still known as the Royal Port.
Read my blog “Eating fish” – where to eat fish on Lake Victoria for the full lowdown on Kabaka’s Landing Site and other places you can eat fish by the lake.
Located along the new Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road, the Bee Hive Bar & Bistro opened mid-2017. The reasonably priced menu at this great little restaurant and bar has local favourites like goat stew and rolex. Beers are just 3,500 Uganda shillings (one US dollar). This is a great stopover after tracking the chimpanzees in Kibale Forest and is located directly opposite the KAFRED project at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary. The Bee Hive also has a pool table and satellite TV (although the muzungu is happiest on the top deck gazing across Bigodi Swamp looking for primates and birds!) Click on the link above to read more about this must-visit stopover. The Bee Hive is also on Facebook. (P.S. You’ll find clean toilets here!)
Kabalega is said to be ‘the last great king of one of the greatest kingdoms in the Great Lakes region.’ His kingdom stretched well beyond the modern day borders of Uganda. The Mparo Tombs monument outside Hoima marks the spot where in 1877 Kabalega granted an audience to Emin Pasha. Read my blog On my knees again: an audience with the King of Bunyoro.
TIP: visit the Mparo Tombs in May and you can stuff your pockets full of the sweet mangoes falling from the huge trees!
Last year I fell in love with the Rwenzoris. Read my #RwenzoriDiary series.
You don’t have to be mega fit and commit to climbing Margherita, Uganda’s highest peak – there are many peaks to choose from and many shorter routes in the foothills. It is here on the lower slopes that you find the most interesting vegetation, birds and animals. Did you know the three-horned chameleon can easily be seen in the Rwenzoris? This mountain range covers over 120 km² and has an amazing 50 lakes and several waterfalls. Keep reading for more stories from the Rwenzoris.
Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine, named in honour of 18 of Uganda’s 38 sunbird species recorded here (so far). If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from Kibale Forest. It’s magical!
If that’s not heaven enough for an amateur birder and conservationist like me, Sunbird Hill Research and Monitoring Site has an extensive reference library and a resident expert primatologist, Julia Lloyd. Read all about the Treehouse, the Birders’ Lounge and the Village Bird Clubs on my blog Love birds, butterflies and chimps? Then don’t miss Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest.
Karamoja (in northeast Uganda) is now firmly on Uganda’s tourist map thanks in part to the great work done by the team at Discover Karamoja. (Crucially for tourists, the UK Government’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) has finally cleared Karamoja as safe to travel to).
Theo Vos writes “Karamoja suffers from a negative image due to decades of isolation and insecurity. However, after peace has returned (2011), the perception of the region by fellow Ugandans and the international community hasn’t changed. The Discover Karamoja project aims to address this through positive imagery and gorgeous photography.”
Karamoja culture is like nowhere else in the #PearlofAfrica. Look at the colour! The landscapes! I’ll be visiting Karamoja very soon.
The region is also home to Kidepo Valley National Park, named one of Africa’s top 10 parks for its ‘spectacular landscapes and large herds of buffalo.’
I hope you’ve enjoyed some of our travel ideas.
The Bee Hive is conveniently located directly opposite the Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary, along the excellent Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road. You can’t fail to miss the big brown and honey-coloured striped building!
Just five minutes’ drive from Kanyanchu (the meeting point for tracking chimps in Kibale National Park), The Bee Hive is a great stopover for coffee, tea or cold drinks after tracking the chimpanzees. The reasonably priced restaurant menu includes local favourites like pumpkin soup, goat stew and rolex (omelette in a chapati in case you haven’t tried one yet) as well as international dishes, beers, wine and spirits. On a previous visit, I really enjoyed tucking into the spaghetti bolognese (goat of course!)
If you’re a sports fan, The Bee Hive has a pool table with regular pool competitions. You can also watch sports and international news on their 50″ screen and satellite TV. (The Bee Hive is the only venue in the area with a back-up generator back-up – so you won’t miss any of the TV action).
The Bee Hive is recommended in the Bradt Uganda Guide edition 9, the current edition (2021). “Set in a conspicuous orange and brown two-storey building opposite the Bigodi Swamp Walk office, this pub-like venue has a pool table, a TV for watching Premier League and other major football matches and a first floor veranda offering views to the Rwenzori in clear weather. A tempting menu of stews, curries and grills is supplemented by cheaper burritos, breakfast (including Rolexes), fresh coffee and desserts. Mains in the US 4-5 dollar range.”
As the name hints, The Bee Hive also sells honey that is harvested from beehives positioned on the boundary of Kibale National Park to deter elephants crossing to villagers’ land. You can even take part in the unique “Bees and Elephants Tour” which I describe here in my Travel Directory.
I love these kinds of projects, as regular blog readers will remember from my days as a volunteer in elephant and community conservation. (Honey is such a great present to buy for folks back home).
Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks, I recommend The Bee Hive for good wholesome food, cold drinks (make mine a beer), coffees (Gorilla Conservation Coffee, of course!) ice-cream and a fab view of the countryside. Outside tourist lodges, The Bee Hive is the only restaurant and bar in the area that caters for both local and international tastes.
TIP: If you’re travelling in a group, or want to hold a private meeting call Erias the Manager on +256 (0)785 948488 to reserve your tables.
The Bee Hive is midway between Fort Portal and Kamwenge, about 4 km south of Kanyanchu Tourist Centre. To be honest, you can’t miss it! It’s 38 km from Fort Portal and 3.5 km from Sunbird Hill.
For latest updates from the Bee Hive, like the Facebook page.
Sunbird Hill is ideally situated for anyone planning to track the chimpanzees or the Green-breasted Pitta in Kibale Forest or for general birdwatching around Kibale Forest. It’s also a wonderful location to relax and enjoy the pure forest air and the natural sounds emanating from the forest. I’ve been visiting this fabulous part of Uganda regularly since 2009. One definite plus about visiting Sunbird Hill is having the chance to meet Julia Lloyd, the resident primatologist. If you love chimpanzees, you’ll be amazed at her stories of her many years living and working deep in Kibale Forest.
National and international experts who visit Sunbird Hill on a regular basis include ornithologists, lepidopterists, herpetologists, botanists, entomologists and primatologists. Bird ringing (or banding) occurs periodically throughout the year. Bird ringing in Kibale Forest is one of my all-time favourite blogs. Contact me if you’d like to learn more about the next ringing trips.
Sunbird Hill Nature Monitoring & Rewilding Site is situated on 40 acres of private land bordering Kibale Forest. It is just off the Fort Portal – Kamwenge Road, 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre (base for chimpanzee tracking in Kibale National Park) and 3.5 km from KAFRED at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary.
Julia writes:
We are a British-Ugandan family passionate about wildlife and conservation. Our compound is a traditional open plan dwelling, with grass thatched houses, a treehouse, a “camp kitchen” and the Birders Lounge. Guests are welcome to stay in one of the three elevated thatched cottages – with expansive views into Kibale Forest – to house visiting biology experts. These are open to the occasional tourist too.
Sunbird Hill is regenerating farmland. This, and its location on the edge of the forest, means the land has numerous microhabitats that give it a high species richness: plants, insects, amphibians, reptiles and mammals and our main passion: birds. Species lists are constantly being updated, and so far we have recorded 16 of the 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda. Our local naturalists, together with ornithologists Roger Skeen and Malcolm Wilson, have recently pushed our bird species list to 295! (A sighting of a lemon dove particularly delighted our Rog).
We know there are many more birds yet to be identified at Sunbird Hill (and we challenge all visitors to add to our bird list!) We know that NatureUganda members will definitely add many more ticks to our list. We are proud winners of the 24 hour Big Birding Day four years in a row (in the category Outside Protected Areas / Private Site).
Calls from wild chimpanzees are regularly heard, especially at night and early in the morning when chimps call out to each other from their night nests (making ‘contact calls’ as they are known in the primatological world). These primates are often seen when the fig tree at the end of our garden is laden with fruit; half of the tree’s canopy is in Kibale Forest National Park. Often elephants can be heard breaking trees during their nightly forages whilst the distinct calls of the Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl and Black-shouldered Nightjar reveal their identity.
The Birders Lounge is a large thatched bird-themed shelter that houses our growing reference library and covers topics including: ornithology, mammalogy, primatology, entomology, herpetology, and botany, as well as ecology, conservation and African travel. Comfortable chairs, desks and work benches are surrounded by Ugandan natural history paraphernalia. The garden around the Birders Lounge is full of native and naturalised flowering plants carefully selected to nurture a diversity of birds and butterflies – perfect for the armchair nature enthusiast (and those of you with heavy photographic equipment!) Our bird baths, bird hide, butterfly mud puddle and pond just keep pushing our species lists up!
Paths wind through the 40 acres of land that borders Kibale Forest taking you through forest edge, woodland, bushland, grassland, farmland, wetland, and riverine habitats. (Pre-booked) visitors are invited to follow the nature trails with one of our expert naturalist site guides.
Sunbird Hill was set up to support the local NGO In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. Our concept is that national and international experts train our Sunbird Hill team. Our team pass this learning onto the youth of our Village Bird Clubs. Wildlife identification and information sharing inspire conservation.
In the Shadow of Chimpanzees has created a number of initiatives on the section of Sunbird Hill land that is dedicated to community use. They include a butterfly house and gardens, medicinal plant garden, bee hives, elephant trench and village football pitch.
On the Sunbird Hill Experience, one of the highly knowledgeable naturalist site guides will point out and provide insightful information on birds, butterflies, moths and plants as well as the occasional primate, reptile and amphibian sighting. What cannot be identified during the walk is photographed and identified at Sunbird Hill’s extensive reference library back at the Birders Lounge.
Guess who are staying overnight at Sunbird Hill Nature Monitoring & Rewilding Site are welcome to join nocturnal nature adventures with the team, as well as a nature walk the following morning before heading back to the Birders Lounge for refreshments, consultation with the reference books and documentation of our findings. As the birds quieten down, the birding morphs into butterflying, an interest that has been growing rapidly among our naturalist site guides.
We live in a truly Ugandan village environment so if you would like to see more of the rural village of Kyabakwerere, a member of our staff will be happy to escort you.
Chimpanzee Tracking (Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park), Swamp Walk in Bigodi (managed by KAFRED, the original and best provider) and Tooro Cultural Museum (Bigodi) are less than 10 minutes drive from Sunbird Hill.
The Treehouse and three elevated cottages are available on a ‘bed only’ basis. There is a well-equipped Camp Kitchen available for your use.
Alternatively, Kiconcos Kitchen can provide simple meals when booked in advance at 30,000 UGX per lunch and 35,000 UGX per dinner per person. A special breakfast can be prepared by our homeschooled teenager Dillon for 25,000 UGX.
The elevated cottages are based on two adults sharing. Add $20 per extra person (each elevated cottage has one double and two single beds). (The construction of the cottage makes it unsuitable for little children).
The Treehouse – everyone’s childhood dream! – is cosy and self-contained with one double bed and is based on 2 people sharing.
Rates include accommodation, access to the Birders Lounge for armchair birding, use of the reference library and bird hide and a walk with our expert naturalist site guides.
The Sunbird Hill Experience fees include tea and coffee and nibbles at the Birders Lounge. Cold beers, sodas, local gin tots and snacks are available at extra cost.
Please note: access to the nature trails is strictly only available to visitors who are accompanied by our site guides and who have booked and paid in advance. Be aware that you are not allowed to enter Kibale National Park from Sunbird Hill.
Discounts are available to members of NatureUganda, NatureKenya, East African Natural History Society, Explorers’ Club, Lepidoptera Club of Africa & African Bird Club. (Proof of membership required). “We want you naturalists here!” Says Julia.
Sunbird Hill is 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park and is 3.5 km from Bigodi off the Fort Portal-Kamwenge Road.
Keep up to date with Sunbird Hill via their Facebook page or WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 to make an enquiry. Booking in advance is essential.
Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine. If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Sunbird Hill isn’t run as a lodge so isn’t for your mainstream tourist. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from the forest. It’s magical! In fact, it is the biggest inspiration behind the East Africa Travel Podcast. (And if you’re serious about birding then you can’t miss a trip to this lovely corner of western Uganda).
