Top things to do in Kampala [UPDATED]
What’s on in Kampala?
Visitors to Uganda are often driven straight upcountry, away from the congested capital. That’s understandable since the country’s main draw are the National Parks. Also, since most visitors live in towns, you can understand they don’t find the idea of a busy city appealing. Kampala is where the crime is – like cities the world over – yet it’s dynamic (and I always feel a sense of excitement as I approach the city). Many now realise we have underestimated Kampala’s attractions and in 2022 Uganda Tourism Board opened a tourism information office in the grounds of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel.
Kampala – affectionately known by some as KLA – is a great place to live. This crazy, noisy, congested city can drive you nuts at times but there’s always something going on. Eh! I hardly know where to start…
What’s for breakfast in Kampala?
Okay, let’s start the day with coffee. Cappuccino is my personal weakness, and can now easily – although not cheaply – be found in most of Kampala’s major shopping centres, big hotels and urban areas. Some of my favourite coffee shops in Kampala include Coffee at Last in Makindye, Cafesserie and Endiro at numerous locations (the cosy Endiro Nakasero cafe is run by deaf staff), Le Petit Village at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road, Café Kawa in Tank Hill, Muyenga and Café Pap in Parliament Avenue and Ntinda. The Southside Market at Dancing Cup in Bugolobi is a popular Saturday hang-out. CJ’s (Cafe Java’s) – at various locations – always have excellent service (and large portions, especially during Ramadan). These also serve African tea.
What’s the perfect accompaniment to morning coffee? Croissants (yes!) or beef sambosas (samosas) and of course the number one Ugandan delicacy, the famous rolex! (“Rolled eggs” omelette in a chapati). Katogo (steamed savoury banana with beans or meat) is a popular Ugandan breakfast. I love it! (Unless it contains ‘gizzards’). Yuck.
Coffee / tea break over, Kampala’s markets are excellent. There’s a market for everything but you have to be ready for haggle. Expat tip: go with a Ugandan friend, unless you want to pay ‘muzungu price’ for every other thing.
Fancy a spot of shopping?
Popular Kampala markets are Nakasero (fruit, vegetables, spices and grasshoppers) and Nakawa (everything – and slightly cheaper than the markets in town). I love Ggaba market on the edge of Lake Victoria. It’s a great place to pick up brightly coloured Tanzanian cloth (as well as all your fruit and vegetables, the cheapest mukenne and other fish, fresh or dried). (The maze-like Owino was once Kampala’s best place for second-hand clothing, shoes and bags; the packed and chaotic downtown is still the best place for all kinds of bargains).
If you’re into arts and crafts and souvenir shopping, head to the extensive ‘Daisy Arcade’ craft market on Buganda Road. There are a small number of craft shops behind the National Theatre too.
Feeling arty?
Kampala has a small but thriving art scene and most exhibitions are free. The best way to find out what’s going on is to follow them on social media. Kampala art galleries include Nommo Gallery, Afriart Gallery on Seventh Street (in the Industrial Area) and Umoja. The Uganda Museum has occasional art shows, in addition to the permanent historic displays. The museum is very dated but still has a certain appeal. It’s definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have a guided tour. Kampala’s Alliance Francaise and Goethe Institute always have a busy timetable of events.
The National Theatre in central Kampala has a programme of dance, drama and art. There are regular shows, films, dance classes and jam sessions. The best way to find out what’s on at the National Theatre is to visit in person or look for their monthly flyer.
The National Theatre was the original venue for the annual Bayimba Festival. Bayimba has since moved to Lunkulu Island on Lake Victoria.
Experience Uganda through music and dance!
The Ndere Troupe’s show is the perfect introduction to Uganda for new visitors, but honestly everyone should watch this brilliant show, more than once! The highly professional Ndere Troupe is a must-see celebration of Uganda and Africa – through traditional music and dance on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights. The Ndere Centre is on Kampala’s Northern Bypass. Read my blog about Ndere’s sensational musical and cultural experience.
Did you know, Kampala has the best nightlife in East Africa?
Don’t take my word for it, dive into Kampala’s nightlife! My friends from Nairobi love this party city. Downtown Kabalagala is famous from here to Kigali to Goma to Bujumbura and Dar – and every part of East Africa in between.
Move over Acacia Avenue and Muyenga, Kisementi and Bugolobi are Kampala’s more popular nightspots these days with new bars and restaurants opening all the time. Kampala’s top hotels have New Year parties, fireworks, live music and more. Ugandans love to party anywhere! Every neighbourhood has several bars. If you like your beer cheap, just sit on a wooden bench outside your local shop. Local ‘pork joints’ are usually good value for money too (unless you’re a vegetarian of course!)
Kampala’s Industrial Area has the city’s best known nightclubs: Guvnors and Ange Noir, but you don’t need to go to a nightclub to dance. Have a few drinks and we will dance anywhere in UG!
Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).
As for getting to all these great places safely, the muzungu is a big fan of “ride hailing apps.” In 2022, Lolo was my new favourite; SafeBoda now provide cars as well as bodas. Uber and Bolt may have been first but they lost the plot during the fuel crisis, with driver after driver doubling the fees. Driving in Kampala is a favourite (tongue in cheek) blog.
Prefer to walk?
Are you interested in history and architecture? The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda has launched a book, maps and a *free* mobile phone app all about Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala’s historical buildings. It’s a fun way to tour the three towns. Read History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a free mobile app.
This page is work in progress – it merely skims the surface of Kampala!
Looking for more thngs to do in Kampala? Send me a message!
What’s the best way to travel to the mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
Can I fly to see the Mountain Gorillas? How long is the journey by road from Kampala (in Uganda) or Kigali (in Rwanda) to the gorillas’ habitat?
The main roads to the gorilla tracking regions of Uganda and Rwanda are generally good but travel is much slower than on European or American roads, for example. Secondary roads are often slow and bumpy, especially approaching Uganda’s gorilla parks. Be prepared for long car journeys often taking most of the day. Four-wheel drive vehicles are required for certain routes in the rainy season when heavy rains can cause floods and even damage roads. I’ve travelled to every corner of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Mgahinga and Volcanoes National Park by every possible means: private car, bus, public transport, boda boda (motorbike taxi) and 12-seater plane. However you travel, enjoy the journey! The scenery is fabulous.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas – is 8+ hours’ drive from Kampala or Entebbe. If you’ve never visited this part of the world before, you’ll find the drive is a fantastic opportunity to watch everyday African life as you drive through the small trading centres. En route through the gloriously green Pearl of Africa you will cross the Equator (and the obligatory stop for photos!)
If you have time to spare, you can easily make a detour for a Safari in Lake Mburo National Park or Queen Elizabeth National Park.
If you prefer to fly, a round trip air ticket from Entebbe Airport or Kajansi Airstrip to the Bwindi area costs approximately $400. This one and a half hour flight in a small aircraft is out of this world! You pass over islands on Lake Victoria, swampy marshlands, villages and the mist-covered valleys of south-western Uganda. Seeing the cloud-covered peaks of the volcanoes appear on the horizon is an unforgettable sight. The airstrips of Kisoro or Kihihi are 30 minutes / one hour from most gorilla tracking lodges.
If you’re pushed for time – or you don’t fancy a long road drive – the best option is a flight to Kigali and the short drive to Volcanoes National Park, home of Rwanda’s gorillas. The drive takes just two hours from Rwanda’s capital city Kigali on very good roads. En route you will quickly understand why it is called ‘the Land of 1000 Hills’!
It’s also possible to fly to Kigali and drive across the border to see Uganda’s gorillas. (Both options take considerably less time than driving from Kampala).
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Uganda or Rwanda: how do you decide where to go mountain gorilla tracking?
Mountain gorilla tracking is a professionally organised and well-developed ecotourism experience. It is the number one tourist attraction in both Uganda and Rwanda. Wherever you stay, there is a good range of accommodation options available to you. Gorilla tracking in the DRC is now back on the bucket list, but offers fewer tracking and accommodation options. If you’re interested in mountain gorilla tracking in the Congo, do drop me an email. A new page is planned!
Ranger guides are professionally trained, will look after you well and are full of useful information. They know the gorilla populations intimately. Ranger guides speak good English. In Rwanda, many guides also speak French (in addition to Kinyarwanda of course!)
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Uganda
I simply love the drive to see the gorillas in Uganda, even from Kampala, even though it takes a whole day. Whether you are tracking the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Buhoma, Nkuringo, Ruhija or Rushaga) or Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, the last hour or two’s scenery en route is divine.
Gorilla tracking permits are cheaper in Uganda (although they have removed the off-peak season discounts). In my view, Uganda also has lots more to see and do before or after your gorilla tracking adventure. Uganda and Rwanda are right next door to each other however, so you could track the gorillas in Rwanda and then drive to Uganda for the rest of your East African holiday, or vice versa.
Since first writing this guide, Rwanda has doubled the cost of its gorilla tracking permits to $1,500 making the country unaffordable to most people. Interestingly, the popularity of gorilla tracking in the DRC is on the increase and is dirt cheap by comparison. Check out my gorilla permit cost page.
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Rwanda
Rwanda’s boast is that you can fly in and do the gorilla tracking in one (rather hectic) day and fly back home the same night. I wouldn’t recommend that though.
The short drive from Kigali International Airport to the start of the gorilla tracking in Rwanda is only two hours but the drive is not as scenic (breath-taking!) as Uganda. However, the roads are better, so gorilla tracking in Rwanda includes a more comfortable drive. Although the gorilla tracking permits cost more in Rwanda, you may save money by doing a shorter trip. By comparison, in Uganda you have to stay a minimum of two nights, thus pushing the overall price up.
Which is the best: tracking the gorillas in Uganda or Rwanda?
The Muzungu highly recommends gorilla tracking in both Uganda and Rwanda. Both experiences are fantastic.
I loved hacking through the rainforest in Bwindi and I loved the bamboo forest of Rwanda. I know people who have tracked the mountain gorillas dozens of times. They continue to go back because every experience is so different. Likewise with tourists and travellers, some decide that if they are travelling all the way to East Africa, then why not track both Uganda’s mountain gorillas and Rwanda’s gorillas too?
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Still got a question? Contact the Muzungu.
MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi [UPDATED]
Taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Try MASH! Bus travel tips and visa info.
The brilliant East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post was updated in February 2023. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].
Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey. Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up… over and over again.
We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?
The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.
Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.
The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat. My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.
Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.
The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.
Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.
My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.
According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).
Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi
NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.
- MASH buses leave on time.
- The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre.
- In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
- The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
- To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
- Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you 😎
Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi
(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).
Kampala to Nairobi
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.
Nairobi to Kampala
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.
MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.
- Make sure you have your Yellow Fever and COVID-19 vaccination certificates (or a negative PCR test).
- Keep photographs of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone.
- Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
- Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
- Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border as well. There is no form to fill in (just the standard arrivals form) and there is no cost. Yay!
- If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).
Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas
- Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
- East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
- Rwanda – Rwanda announces all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
- The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.
- The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
- In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
- Dreamline have also been recommended to me.
Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?
Go Wild in UG! The Muzungu chats with Wanderlust readers
Wanderlust Travel Magazine: live webinar answering FAQs about Uganda safaris, gorilla vs. chimp tracking, where to see the Shoebill in Uganda, self-drive vs. guided tours…
I had to pinch myself when travel expert Mr Philip Briggs asked whether I’d have time to talk live to readers of the famous Wanderlust Travel Magazine. Well, YES! There’s nothing I like better than waxing lyrical about my favourite subject: travel to Uganda!
Wanderlust Travel Magazine “More than 300 of you tuned into our Uganda event to hear Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu, speak live from this incredible country alongside other expert speakers and the Uganda Tourism Board. We learned all about Uganda’s incredible wildlife and fascinating culture.
Featured image of leopard in tree. PHOTO by Peter Hogel. Courtesy MJ Safaris Uganda.
Scroll down to watch the – very lively! – recording “to explore the unspoiled and wildlife-filled landscapes of Uganda. During this virtual evening of travel, we will be meeting the experts who will bring to life the huge biodiversity, local culture and space for adventure in this incredible part of the world.”
Where was Charlotte talking from?
“I was talking live from Kyaninga Lodge a high-end lodge near Fort Portal and Kibale Forest in western Uganda (a good base for chimp tracking).”
Can you drive yourself around Uganda or is it easier to hire a driver?
“Self-drive holidays in Uganda are possible but not recommended if you haven’t done an African road trip before. We always recommend having a driver guide. They know every road – and pothole! They will tell you what time you need to leave your lodge for your next activity, maintain your vehicle and generally be a really good addition to your experience of Uganda. Ideally hire a trained guide with expertise in your particular interest e.g. safari, birding, culture, etc. If you do choose to self-drive, don’t drive at night. Very few roads are lit so driving can be dangerous. I frequently take bus trips between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. Buses are incredibly cheap but they don’t have the best safety reputation. (Some of them have seatbelts but few ever work). Large buses ply city routes. Between towns, you will need to catch a matatu minivan taxi, which are very cramped.”
Can you self-drive in Uganda’s National Parks?
“Yes it’s possible to drive yourself in Uganda’s National Parks but you must stick to the marked tracks. Failure to do so may result in a cash fine or even eviction from the park. If you travel independently, you will need to have a Uganda Wildlife Authority armed ranger escort, at your (small) cost. Choose the right one, and you will have an expert guide to your Uganda safari. Although the idea of doing your own game drive sounds exciting, local people know exactly where the different wildlife hunts and sleeps. (It’s amazing what you may drive past while looking in the other direction!)”
What budget do you recommend per day, excluding air fares, for a Ugandan safari?
“Options can vary wildly according to the standard of accommodation and the number of people in your group. You generally pay a little more for lodges and hotels inside a National Park. Uganda has a range of accommodation from homestays and campsites to mid-range hotels and luxury lodges with spas and butler service. Daily rate would usually include: 4×4 vehicle (often a minibus van) with English-speaking driver and fuel; accommodation and meals; some activities such as game drives and nature walks (the more expensive gorilla / chimp tracking permits are usually charged extra).
Generally speaking, allow a budget of $200 or more / day to cover all of the above. If opting to stay in high-end lodges, daily rates would start at $450 per person. [Prices estimated April 2022]. For best value, travel in a group of four or more.” Looking for a tour operator? Check out my Travel Directory.
How accessible and reliable is medical care for tourists in Uganda?
“The first thing to remember is to buy travel insurance before you travel to Uganda. It’s easy to access basic medical advice and clinics in Uganda but if you take regular medication, do bring a good supply with you. It can be difficult to access certain medicines outside Kampala, however, you will easily find malaria testing and treatment facilities, for example. Malaria prevention is always better than cure. Minimise health risks by taking antimalarials, sleeping under a mosquito net and alerting your guide or tour company if you are feeling unwell. Drink filtered or bottled water (few tourists complain of stomach upsets in Uganda).
For more serious health issues, you would need to get to a town or even Kampala. Medivac evacuation (by helicopter for example) is available but very expensive. Compared to many countries, Uganda has not been badly hit by COVID-19. Read Uganda travel advice I ignored – my advice on various health and safety issues based on my 10+ years living in Uganda.”
How does chimpanzee tracking differ from mountain gorilla tracking?
They’re big and they’re hairy – but other than that these two great apes are radically different. Mountain gorillas are huge but gentle vegetarians. Chimpanzees are nutters!
Mountain gorillas spend most of their day on the ground, sleeping and farting. Chimpanzees can cover a big range up in the trees. (Yes, ok, they also fart a lot!)
Gorilla tracking is amazing because of the rainforest territory and the climb through the mist to find them. Chimp tracking is hilarious – they are so like us. (Or are we like them?)
I love both primate tracking experiences. I can’t say one is better than the other but price is definitely a consideration. In 2022 in Uganda, it costs $700 for a gorilla tracking permit. By comparison, a chimp tracking permit is between $50 to $200, depending which National Park or Forest Reserve you track in. Read the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s conservation fees for tariff for 2022- 2024.
Where is the best place to see giraffe and elephants in Uganda?
“The best place to see (Rothschild’s) giraffe would definitely be Murchison Falls National Park. Smaller populations have been reintroduced to Lake Mburo and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve; you can also see giraffes (and cheetah and a lot more) in Kidepo, in Uganda’s remote north east. Elephant can be easily seen in the popular Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks.”
How easy is it to see the Shoebill bird in Uganda?
“I once saw three Shoebills on the Delta boat ride in Murchison Falls National Park. Their size makes them easy to spot but they are shy and very few in number. Make sure you have an expert guide. If you absolutely have to see the Shoebill – and time or budget are an issue – why not pass by Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe? In addition to the Shoebill, you can see indigenous species such as elephant, lion, white rhino, chimpanzee and serval cats. Another location that is an easy drive from Entebbe is Mabamba Bay. Although the Shoebill can be viewed in other parts of Uganda, the places listed here are Uganda’s most popular Shoebill viewing destinations.”
What is the one experience or one place in Uganda that people should experience?
“Murchison Falls National Park in northern Uganda is the country’s most popular National Park (yet for all that, there are few tourists compared to many of Africa’s tourist areas). The park is named after the dramatic falls where the River Nile narrows from 1/2 a kilometre wide to just seven metres wide and plunges 43 metres. It’s a fantastic sight, seen from below via boat or from above: at the Top of the Falls, you can feel the power of the water in the rocks beneath your feet. I write about it in Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron, Murchison Falls. Murchison is an excellent safari destination, whether for game drives, safari boat rides, birdwatching or chimp tracking in Budongo. The Shoebill is one of Murchison’s 400+ bird species.”
Watch the full recording of the Wanderlust reader event: go wild in Uganda
What did Wanderlust readers have to say about the Go Wild in Uganda webinar event?
Thanks all. Now looking at a trip.
Thanks very much. It’s been a great evening. Great words from great people. Thanks very much to Charlotte and your friends, good job.
Thank you for a wonderful evening. It reminds us of the great time we had in Uganda (and that was without seeing the gorillas as we felt we weren’t fit enough for the trek). It also made us want to go again.
Thank you for a fascinating insight into Uganda. I really enjoyed the event and would love to visit there!
Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly [UPDATED]
All Ugandan tourist visas and work permits are now online. January 2023: apply BEFORE you travel. I get a lot of questions about visa on arrival at Entebbe Airport but we have heard multiple instances of airlines refusing to board passengers who don’t have their visa approval letter. Visa on arrival is no longer available.
DISCLAIMER: I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues, visitors to Uganda and advice from an immigration lawyer. Scroll down for more information and do read all the comments for the latest feedback on the Uganda visa application process.
Since 2020, every traveller has to consider COVID-19 protocols. For what to expect when passing through Uganda’s international airport, read Latest travel news from Entebbe International Airport (updated regularly).
The Ugandan government has set an online electronic visa application system. This is (in theory) mandatory for applying for all Ugandan visas, including: entry permit (work permit), Uganda tourist visa, multiple entry visa, transit visa, East Africa tourist visa, student pass, diplomatic visa, official visa, special pass, Certificate of Residence, dependent’s pass.
Which nationals need to pay for a visa to enter Uganda?
Click here to see the “List of visa exempt nationalities. If your nationality is on the list, you don’t need to apply for a visa to enter in Uganda.
Requests for tourist visas, passes and work permits (E-Visa and E-permits) should now be completed via this link on the official Uganda immigration website.
Under the new application process, applicants for all immigration services such as visas, work permits and passes will be required to apply and pay online, and an electronic notification / authorisation will be sent to the applicant before proceeding to the preferred Entry Point e.g. Entebbe International Airport or the nearest Uganda Mission abroad for the visa to be issued.
If you are travelling to Uganda and applying for a Ugandan visa online, you are advised to:
Apply at least ONE MONTH prior to travel. (However, some applications are approved in hours, others days, some not at all… if you apply too early, your visa approval may even get cancelled and there’s no guarantee you will get your money back).
Be prepared. You need to complete the online application in one sitting. The online application does not allow you to save your information and return to the screen later. Have these ready: a copy of your bio page of your passport, a recent passport photo, Yellow Fever vaccination certificate and COVID-19 vaccination certificate (or negative PCR test results if you’re not vaccinated). You will need to upload these. For more info on the exact documents needed, according to type of visa you require, go to the Uganda immigration web site general information page.
By the way, the photo is US passport photo size (not Canadian, one Diary of a Muzungu reader tells me, which is a larger size).
If you’re applying for a single entry tourits visa, you’ll need to upload:
- Passport bio-data page (with validity of at least 6 months)
- Recent Passport-size Photo
- Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate
- Return Ticket
Only PDF, JPEG, PNG and BMP files are accepted. The files you upload should not be bigger than 250kb (that’s pretty small!) so resize all your docs before you start the application process.
The decision taken on the online application (“yes” or “no” on whether you’re coming to Uganda) will be sent via email. Assuming you get the go-ahead, your visa approval letter will be sent as an email attachment. You’re advised to print this travel authorisation (showing a barcode) and keep this with your travel documents (although it is not mandatory apparently). However, Ugandans do love printed papers so print everything you can, just to avoid unforeseen delays.
The Uganda immigration web site details the fees for applying for Ugandan visas online.
You can pay online for your Uganda tourist visa. Only Mastercard and Visa are accepted online and there is a 3% surcharge for online payment. Currently, the single entry Uganda tourist visa fee is $55: $50 for the visa and $5 admin fee. For the tourist visa, work permit and pass fees, see Uganda Immigration’s fees for applying for Ugandan visas online or the website of Africa Immigration Advisory Services, Kampala a company I recommend.
When you complete the visa application process, it is very important that you make a note of your application number! You may need this in case you have to follow up. Otherwise, click here to retrieve your Uganda visa application ID but some people say this hasn’t always worked
Present the printed barcode at point of entry [read “Entebbe Airport”] together with a valid passport / travel document of “not less than 6 months validity” and you will get your tourist visa.
NOTE: “the travel authorization [approval] letter does not guarantee entry into Uganda. Travelers will be subjected to secondary verification where necessary before personalization,” meaning it is not 100% guarantee you will be issued a visa at the airport / border / Uganda mission (but you probably will, unless you’ve been very naughty indeed).
For answers to Frequently Asked Questions, go to the Uganda immigration Help page.
As you’ll see from the comments below, lots of visa applications get stuck at the “pending” stage. This is normally because the applicant has forgotten to send in one of the documents, or immigration are requesting more information (but frequently aren’t clear what that is!) There have been lots of complaints about emails not being answered but Uganda immigration do reply fairly quickly via their Facebook page.
The Directorate for Citizenship and Immigration’s call centre is open from 7am to 7pm Uganda time (with plans for it to be operated 24 hours at some stage). Call +256 417 102600 or toll-free 0800 199004 / 0800 199003 in Uganda.
Uganda has 22 official ‘points of entry’ border posts. They include Entebbe International Airport, Katuna (or Gatuna), Malaba, Busia, Cyanika, Mirama Hills and Elegu. Entebbe International Airport has the majority of tourist arrivals, followed by Katuna (Rwanda) and Busia (Kenya border).
Any feedback or questions on applying for Ugandan visas online? Do please contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. I review this page on a regular basis. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
I also have a post about the East Africa Tourist Visa and a post on Rwanda’s announcement that all travelers can get visa on arrival.
Advice to would-be Ugandan travel writers – a competition!
Uganda’s Travel Writing Competition 2022 [now closed]
Writing has opened many doors for me.
Get writing between now and the end of July and you have a chance to win one of these prizes:
- 1 million Uganda shillings (always good)
- An all-expenses-paid trip to “somewhere in Uganda” (nice!)
- Mentoring (arguably the best prize of all, if you’re serious about a writing career)
The second annual Travel Writing Competition is the initiative of Irene Allen Namisango and the team at Uganda Uncovered. The muzungu will be one of the judges, alongside Julius Luwemba (journalist, writer and photographer) and Dr Jim Ayorekire (Senior Lecturer and Researcher, Makerere University).
Here are some of the things I have learned about being a travel writer.
How did I start writing Diary of a Muzungu? And why?
I started Diary of Muzungu in 2008 as I was preparing to quit my 9-to-5 job in London. This blog records the life-changing experience of saying goodbye to the corporate life to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Back then, Diary of a Muzungu was simply a personal diary (adjusting to power cuts, Luganda lessons and shopping in Namuwongo market!)
The discipline of daily writing allowed me to reflect on my radically new life. (You don’t have to publish everything of course.) Journaling – or old-fashioned scribbling in a diary – can be therapeutic as well as a chance to develop your own style. Why do I blog? 10 surprisingly for lessons from a self-confessed blogoholic. I look back on my early blogs and can see that regular blogging has improved my writing. My sentences are better structured. I have found my voice.
Writing was already a big part of my life before Uganda. I wrote proposals and reports for a living; the content could be dull, but it was excellent training. (When I felt creative, I would write for the staff newsletter). Fast forward and – hello world – I am a judge in a travel writing competition, a trainer and mentor.
Tips for being a successful travel writer
You have to put in the hours, consistently. Here is a behind-the-scenes view of a typical work trip Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
If you want to be a good travel writer, the writing is far more important than the travelling. Travel can be costly – and you are unlikely to get any trips funded until you have a strong portfolio – so don’t ignore what’s on your doorstep. Here are my top tips for Ugandans who want to travel.
What are the job opportunities for travel writers in Uganda?
As tourism develops in Uganda, companies are looking for talented writers to help them with their marketing. We need new ideas and perspectives but most of all, we need original, quality work. I get fed up with seeing my content posted on other people’s sites (without so much as a courtesy tag). Come on Uganda – try harder!
Unfortunately, Uganda’s copy and paste culture undermines quality output. It also weakens the destination brand if we’re all just rehashing the same content. When I say that we need original content, I mean that each story should be written from scratch. In addition, we need to look for new topics and alternative ways to structure our communications. Don’t just copy somebody else’s ideas. Do not start with “I got up in the morning and I had breakfast.” It’s boring. Find your voice. You might not get it right first time. Practice. Read.
A note for tourism businesses looking for travel content
Employers need to understand that quality writing is a resource-intensive task. It takes time to research a subject, check the facts, write the narrative, edit, review, edit again and proofread. A decent blog post or magazine article involves many revisions. (At some point, I will put an article to one side so that I can go back to it later with fresh eyes). Your travel content could be someone’s first impression of Uganda. It must read well and all the facts must be verified.
What is the theme of this year’s Travel Writing competition?
“My 100% recommendable destination in Uganda.”
Articles should be 800-1000 words about the writer’s recommended destination. According to Irene, the aim of the story is “to keep a reader engrossed and desire to visit that particular place.” Stories should be “anecdotes from personal travel experiences from road trips to camping experiences, weekend getaways to long safaris.”
At the June 21 launch at the Uganda Museum, Basil Ajer, the Director of Tourism at the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, urged “Please contestants make use of this [writing] opportunity… write and make the readers accept that Uganda is the Pearl of Africa.”
Daniel Irunga pledged total support of the initiative on behalf of the Uganda Tourism Board.
Richard Kawere, head of the Uganda Tourism Association, the industry’s apex body also endorsed the event. He has been very supportive of the initiative from its inception. “Content writing is one of the biggest gaps in the tourism industry in Uganda.”
Eric Ntalo, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre Public Relations Manager, said “It is important for Ugandans to be involved in promoting conservation and tourism. It is one sustainable way to benefit from all the endowments the country has.”
How to enter the Travel Writing Competition 2022
- The competition is open to Ugandans of 18–35 years.
- The closing date is 11:59 PM July 31, 2022.
- Submit your story as a PDF – with pictures.
- There are no fees to enter the competition.
- Articles should be between 800–1000 words.
- The organisers state that “Winners will be invited to take part in a 3-month training with the Uncovered Youth Writers Hub to further hone their writing skills. These trainings will be facilitated by award-winning travel writers and authors. Winning articles will be featured on our websites and social media platforms. In addition to the prizes, free trips and visibility, shortlisted travel writers stand a chance at employment and travel writing gigs with reputable travel agencies on the hunt for writers.”
One final word of writing advice from Diary of Muzungu
Start writing now. Don’t wait until the last minute. Start jotting some ideas down.
Multi-millionaire author Stephen King advises Write with the door closed, rewrite with the door open (meaning don’t worry about your ugly grammar or what anyone else thinks. Just dump those ideas on the page then come back to them later).
Good luck everyone! I look forward to reading your entries – and featuring a few of the winning travel stories on Diary of a Muzungu 🙂
Rwanda Uganda land border reopens after 3 years [UPDATED]
Diary of a Muzungu has crossed from Uganda into Rwanda by road.
UPDATE. May 14th 2022. Hooray! I have crossed the Katuna / Gatuna border; it was very easy.
People entering Rwanda may still be subject to random COVID-19 testing by the Ministry of Health upon entry. However, I didn’t even have to show my vaccination certificates or wear a mask either. Very few people were wearing masks at Gatuna. You don’t have contact tracing if you cross by land borders (no need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form).
Key info: anyone traveling through Kigali International Airport must have a negative PCR test result 72 hours before travelling (no change). This applies even if you are in transit. You also need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form to land in Rwanda. All departing Rwandans must be vaccinated.
Curfew is well and truly lifted. Citizens and Rwandan citizens must be fully vaccinated to access public places (including public transport, but are they checking?) You don’t need to wear a mask in public anymore.
On Monday 30th of January 2022, Rwanda reopened the land border with Uganda at Gatuna / Katuna after a 3-year closure. Other Rwanda land borders reopened on March 7th. I’ve missed my cross-border bus journeys! However, very few people have travelled between Uganda and Rwanda yet this year. Initially it appeared that the Gatuna border only reopened for trade and for nationals of the two countries. The video “advises against non-essential travel.” Unfortunately, tourism must fall into that category. Rwanda Uganda border reopens after three years.
UPDATE: March 5th I met an American passport-holder who travelled by bus from Kigali to Gatuna. She was one of only five people who crossed. She took the bus from Kigali, crossed by foot and then caught a private hire taxi to Kabale.
In recent years it’s been common for international tourists to travel to Uganda and Rwanda on one safari itinerary. During the last three years, few people have been able to do this, unless they have flown into Entebbe (Uganda) and Kigali (Rwanda) International Airports (lockdown measures not withstanding!) Many Ugandans and Rwandans have family both sides of the border.
I am monitoring the situation and updating this blog regularly.
#ExploreUganda #VisitRwanda
Uganda Wildlife Authority revises conservation fees [UPDATED]
Uganda Wildlife Authority has released a new Conservation Tariff which will be effective from 1st July 2022.
The good news is that there are very few price increases. The most notable change in Uganda Wildlife Authority’s new price list is the increased entry fee to Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda’s most popular safari destination.
You hardly need me to remind you how hard travel – and thus conservation revenue – has been hit during the pandemic. It’s therefore no surprise that the authorities are doing everything they can to raise money. Some might argue that we need discounts to encourage people to travel. However, given conservation’s dire finances recently, I say let’s be grateful how few price increases there are. Now let’s book that safari!
UWA’s summary price list (above) covers National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees, gorilla / chimpanzee / golden monkey tracking permits, primate habituation, mountain and volcano hiking, mountain biking, boat hire to watch the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
A few activities that the muzungu is looking forward to doing include:
- Hiring a boat in Toro Semliki wildlife reserve to view the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
- Kidepo Lonyilli summit hike
- Kapkwai sector of Murchison Falls National Park. (Did you know you can get free entry to Kapkwai?)
- Mount Elgon mountain biking. That must be awesome!
- Bushiyi trail extension, the shortest trail to Wagagai, the highest peak on Mount Elgon.
- Chimpanzee tracking at Ngogo (Kibale National Park) a few hundred metres from my home at Sunbird Hill
- Golden monkey habituation in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Golden monkeys are very pretty creatures!
Uganda park entry fees – Murchison Falls slight increase
From July 1st 2022, visitors to Murchison Falls National Park can expect to pay:
- Ugandan adults 25,000 Uganda shillings (was 20,000)
- Ugandan children 10,000 Uganda shillings (was 5,000)
- International tourists, adults $45 (was $40)
- International tourists, children $25 (was $20)
- Residents / expats $35 (was $30)
Stephen Masaba of Uganda Wildlife Authority explained to Diary of a Muzungu:
“For Murchison Falls, we observed high speeding and increased road kills (especially of baboons) but have also noted littering and high levels of plastic waste. Of the number of visitors to Murchison, over 10% of these people are just in transit (crossing through the park). The slight fee increase should help curb some of these effects.”
Stephen Sanyi Masaba, Director, Tourism and Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority
Although they don’t (yet) have the facilities that more established National Parks do, now might be a time to explore some of Uganda’s less visited protected areas such as Pian Upe and Katonga Wildlife Reserves.
For full details on activities not listed in the summary (game drives, nature walks, birdwatching and more) download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s full conservation tariff for July 2022 to June 2024 here.
Planning a Uganda safari?
Did you know I have a Travel Directory full of tour operators who would love to organise a trip of a lifetime for you? Alternatively, drop me a line and I will make some personal recommendations. Damn, writing this makes me miss the savannah…
Where are you celebrating Easter? Uganda resident specials!
Are you looking for things to do in Kampala and places to stay in Uganda this Easter?
Easter 2022 will be celebrated between 14th and 18th April, come rain come shine! It’s incredibly hot as I write this, so it’s hard to imagine rain! However, rains are certainly due…
Here are a few of Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on how to spend the Easter holidays. Am I missing somewhere? (I know I am! Feel free to contact the Muzungu with suggestions or recommendations).
The Easter holiday is a great time to leave Kampala for a few days. Uganda has countless destinations where you can spend the long weekend. Their numbers are mushrooming as you read!
Some hotels and lodges quote in Uganda shillings, others in dollars. I don’t usually quote prices (they date so quickly) so you should always check terms and conditions before making your booking (and do mention a certain ka blog won’t you 😎). Any prices quoted here are for Ugandans and expats / Ugandan residents. (International tourists generally pay higher prices so are not covered in this blog post).
To view images full size, just click on each one. For lodge descriptions and contact details, scroll down…
NOTE: lodge suggestions are grouped by (approximate) location.
Destination Safari! The bush is calling…
To many expats in Uganda, mention the magical words “public holiday” and the first thing they will want to do is disappear on Safari. You simply can’t beat reconnecting with nature (ideally with post-game drive gin and tonic of course!)
Safari destinations, gorillas and volcanoes …
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks
If you’ve ever thought of tracking the gorillas, Easter could be a good time as you need at least two nights in Bwindi or Mgahinga. Since there are fewer international tourists than normal, you should find it easier to get a last-minute gorilla permit. (At the time of writing, permits are still available for Easter 2022, particularly in Ruhija in Bwindi’s southern sector).
Dear would-be gorilla tracker: COVID-19 SOPs require that you wear a mask when you are in the great ape national parks and there must be a minimum of 10 metres distance between you and the animals (formerly it was 7 metres).
Chameleon Hill
Book three nights at the gloriously colourful Chameleon Hill during April 2022 and you have a choice of offers: either pay 3 nights and stay 4 nights; alternatively, pay for 3+ nights and receive a complimentary massage plus a boat excursion. Resident rates are $125 / person sharing in a double/ twin chalet and $175 single occupancy, both on full board basis. Chameleon Hill
+256 (0) 772 72 1818 welcome@chameleonhill.com
Clouds Mt. Gorilla Lodge, Nkuringo, southern Bwindi
For a rate of $230 / person / night sharing, enjoy full board accommodation at Cloud’s, one of Uganda’s top lodges. Get a 10% discount if you stay for Easter weekend. This offer applies to a minimum two-night stay. Tucked in the south-western corner of Bwindi, walk to a vantage point to admire the peaks of some of the Virunga volcanoes and peek into Rwanda and the DRC.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda
Look what Gorilla Highlands dreamed up just for you:
Spend your Easter weekend with a family hike on Lake Bunyonyi, culminating in an Easter egg hunt on Habukomi Island. You can choose between the 3-day Mother of All Treks programme, 2-day Mama Bena’s Bonus or 1-day Islands of Miracles. Each trek combines dugout canoeing and hiking with the Easter Sunday island picnic and egg fun as a complimentary bonus. Don’t feel like walking? Gorilla Highlands can also take you to Habukomi by motorboat!
I have worked with the Gorilla Highlands team on many occasions. They offer awesome, authentic experiences that directly benefit the local community.
Jump in Lake Mutanda [like the girls in the photo] for the best view of the volcanic peaks of Mt Sabinyo and Mt Muhabura, two of the Virunga volcanoes
Gahiza Island Retreat offers a number of room options for Ugandan residents. Bed and breakfast is 150k ugx / double room / night, for example. For Easter 2022, book two nights and take a three-hour boat tour (worth 150k ugx) on Lake Mutanda for free or stay a third night for free!
0775235579 reservationgahizaisland@gmail.com
Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Buhoma Lodge, one of Bwindi’s best, long established high end lodges and pay $155/person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. This is a steal! This Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022.
$5 per person per night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation. I love their work!
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Kibale Forest National Park and Fort Portal
The crater lakes have been enticing visitors to Fort Portal – Uganda’s first “tourism city” – for decades. Popular expat lodges include Ndali Lodge, Kyaninga Lodge, Isunga Lodge, and Papaya Lake Lodge. Each one overlooks its own lake.
If you plan to track chimps, COVID-19 SOPs state that you wear a mask and you must keep a minimum of 10 metres between you and the great apes (formerly it was 7 metres).
To the south of Kibale National Park lies Turaco Treetops “a true jungle experience where comfort meets nature!” On a clear day, you can see the Rwenzori Mountains. Families love the outdoor playground, swimming pool and kids’ playroom. Children and adults alike enjoy the guided nature walk and mountain bike tour (new ‘Giant’ bikes for adults and children are available to hire from the lodge).
Luxury cottages are in secluded locations; standard rooms have (optional) sharing balconies, perfect for families or groups of friends. It’s quite likely Turaco Treetops will be fully booked by the time you read this article but bookmark it for your next weekend away!
+256 (0) 75 715 2323
The Sunbird Hill Experience, Kibale Forest edge (3km from Kanyanchu)
One of the highlights of the Sunbird Hill Experience is the guided walk with Silver, the reformed poacher and ranger, a veritable walking encyclopedia of forest knowledge. Learn about Kibale’s birds and 100s butterfly and moth species at Butterfly Village. Sunbird Hill is set up for those who are passionate about nature. If you’re looking for an immersive experience, look no further. The ridiculously low $30 fee includes expert site guides, half day access to the Birders’ Lounge and refreshments. There is nowhere else like it in Uganda!
Visits to this private site are strictly by prior appointment. WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 julia@sunbirdhill.com
All Sunbird Hill activities support In the Shadow of Chimpanzees NGO.
Rweteera Safari Park
Don’t miss Rweteera Safari Park’s Easter offer: free canoeing experience and a guided night walk around the shores of Lake Nyabikere in search of nocturnal animals. Keep your eyes peeled for bushbaby, nightjar and crickets. You’ll know if you hear the chilling shriek of the tree hyrax!
The Easter offer is exclusively for overnight guests. Rates are single $50, double $70 (bed and breakfast). Rweteera Safari Park is within walking distance of Kibale National Park.
WhatsApp 0776862153 rweteerasafaripark@gmail.com
Beyond Fort Portal
Between Fort Portal and Kasese is the Italian-themed Lodge Bella Vista – and pizzeria – that was built by a retired Italian diplomat. The lodge and pool overlook Nyamiteza crater lake. Walk, bike and explore Toro‘s many community tourism attractions.
This Easter, book two nights at Lodge Bella Vista and get 50% off your 3rd night, subject to availability.
+256 773204264 / 759214947 booking@lodgebellavista.com
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Ishasha Wilderness Camp sits on the bend of a river in its own forest. This idyllic spot is regularly visited by wildlife and is the first place I spotted the eye-catching Narina Trogon.
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Ishasha Wilderness Camp and pay $155 / person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022. $5 per person night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation.
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Little Elephant Camp
If you love camping – but prefer glamping – head to Little Elephant Camp, rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor. Here families, couples or small groups have their own private, secure camp with a view of Queen Elizabeth National Park just outside the park’s northern boundary.
Facilities include en-suite hot water outdoor “stargazer” shower, private campfire, well-equipped mess/kitchen with refrigeration and purified water, Wi-Fi, and much more. Shop and cook for yourself or pre-order marinated barbecue, fresh ingredients and everything you need for your safari, all delivered ready for your arrival. Easter 2022 promotion price at Little Elephant Camp is $80 per person (accommodation only) based on 2 people sharing. Minimum 2-night stay.
+256 759 537220 / 787 722355 info@littleelephantcamp.com
The Observatory
One of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite places! Enjoy uninterrupted views of Lake Edward, Lake George, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Nyamusingire from The Observatory, a self-catering holiday home overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park. Two private cottages have splash pool, sauna, hot tub and barbecue area available for your exclusive hire at a very affordable rate. Click here to see gorgeous photos of The Observatory in the Travel Directory.
Kidepo Valley National Park
Did you know that everyone who goes to Kidepo rates it as their favourite National Park? The upmarket Apoka Lodge is the perfect base for a safari in Kidepo Valley. Their Easter 2022 rate is $180 / person / night sharing based on a minimum two-night stay. The rate includes full board meals and one game drive per day. Terms and conditions apply.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Mburo National Park
Popular lodges include Rwakobo Rock (a personal favourite), Hyena Hill Lodge (I’ve heard great things), Leopard Rest Camp and the one and only Mihingo Lodge.
Lake Albert
Kikonko Eco Lodge is your first address on Lake Albert. Scenic views and a serene atmosphere characterise this small boutique lodge with swimming pool. Here guests can enjoy excellent service from friendly staff and get a peaceful night’s sleep in spacious self-contained cottages with private verandas.
Easter Special: book 2 nights in a double room on a bed & breakfast basis for $120 per night and get a third night and breakfast for free. A family room sleeps up to 4 people (2 adults and 2 children). The Easter rate is $170 for bed and breakfast. An Easter egg hunt is included in the price. Other lodge activities cost between $5 to $20.
+256 784 432 508 info@kikonko.com
Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve and Semliki National Park
It’s confusing to have two very different protected areas with almost identical names! Which is which? Semliki Wildlife Reserve is a savannah park on the southern edge of Lake Albert; Semliki National Park comprises a forest and the famous Sempaya Springs.
Shhh, don’t tell everyone but Semliki Safari Lodge in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve is where you should go when you want to escape the world!
Upgraded and refurbished during the pandemic in classic safari style, Semliki Safari Lodge offers full board and one game drive per day for $160 / person / night over the Easter period. This is based on two sharing for a minimum of two nights. Booking is dependent on availability and is only extended to Ugandan citizens and Ugandan residents with proof of residence. This lodge is ab fab! Read my blog Uniquely Semliki!
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Closer to Kampala…
If you don’t have many days off, here are a few ideas for places to visit closer to the capital.
Expat favourite Nkima Forest Lodge has a great swimming pool and is ideal for mountain biking, canoeing, butterfly catching for the children and Shoebill-watching at Mabamba. Nkima Forest Lodge, Mabamba, is sister to Lake Mburo’s excellent Rwakobo Rock.
Call +256 701 865056 / +256 787 429377
Ssesse Islands
Fancy an island adventure?
Banda Island is an-ever popular, well-run location for an Easter weekend.
Rainforest Lodge in Mabira Forest
Mabira Forest is midway between Kampala and Jinja. This popular lodge has a swimming pool and sauna, badminton, volleyball, dartboard and board games. For 1.6 million Uganda shillings, a couple can stay two nights. This Easter 2020 rate is for full board and includes one complimentary bottle of wine. Cheers!
Call +256 782 574271 / +256 701 563437 reservations@geolodgesafrica.com
Jinja
Adventure tourism has taken off in Uganda with most activities based in and around Jinja, the Source of the Nile. Jinja is a favourite getaway for Kampala residents; it has something for everyone. The two new roads – Gayaza to the north and south of Jinja Road – make weekend trips in Jinja easier than ever.
Bungee Bar – and the bungee jump of course!
Uganda’s first – and currently the only – bungee jump overlooks the River Nile. No stomach for the jump? No problem. Take the safer (saner?!) option and watch the bungee from the comfort of the Bungee Bar, a fabulous spot for a sundowner. Bungee Restaurant has an extensive food and cocktail menu and is worth the ride just for the sunset views. to book a bungee jump or to reserve a table at the restaurant.
Call Rob on +256 750 707825 – and tell him the Muzungu sent you 😎
Quad biking and crazy golf for all the family at Bujagali, Jinja
Read my quad biking blog “Eat my dust!”
Also managed by Rob +256 750 707825.
Pony Rides with Nile Horseback Safaris
If you fancy trying something new this Easter holiday, how about a sunset horse ride? The $60 sunset ride – for experienced adult riders – includes beer, local spirits, juice and sodas.
Did you know Nile Horseback Safaris offer 30-minute pony rides for kids aged between 4 and 12 years? Pony rides are between 9 and 11am and 2.30 and 4pm daily (subject to availability of ponies). Children – and adults – can do longer rides if they are experienced horse riders.
Pre-booking is essential for all rides.
+256 774 101196 nilehorsebacksafaris@gmail.com
Things to do at Easter in Kampala
moonbean chocolate, based together with Dancing Cup in Bugolobi, Kampala, are offering children ‘Build-a-Bunny’ and ‘Choc-Chick’ making workshops from early April 2022, and an Easter egg-hunt and other holiday activities over the Easter weekend. Follow @moonbeanchocolate on social media for the latest details.
+256 701 805182 m.me/moonbeanchocolate
An Easter thought from Diary of a Muzungu in support of Uganda’s tourism industry
The pandemic has devastated travel in particular and there’s been a big shake-up in tourism businesses up and down the country. It’s sad when you hear negative feedback about a favourite lodge that was on top of its game two years ago, but the reality is it will take time before things get back to normal. Many businesses are still in recovery mode.
You and I might be traveling again but let’s not push too hard for discounts. Remember the more we spend, the more we’re investing in the future of tourism in Uganda.
Whatever you do this Easter, get out there and #ExploreUganda! Looking for something different? Contact the Muzungu – I have 100s more ideas. HAPPY EASTER 😎
What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a minimum of $130 to visit the three countries: Kenya ($50) + Rwanda ($30) + Uganda ($50). These fees are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available, although a few challenges remain.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala).
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry only within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new East Africa Tourist Visa.
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. You cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa. To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below. (June 2018: feedback from several tourists is that you are now able to purchase an East Africa Tourist Visa when already in the zone e.g. on the road border between Uganda and Rwanda. This has not been publicised but seems fairly common practice).
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”
- How to apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2022: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. However: for Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visasa; for Rwanda, apply online in advnace or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. You should get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip. Alternatively, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa upon arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) or Mombasa.
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa applications. Currently this is for single entry visas and transit visas only (NOT the EATV). (Checked again October 2022).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is up to date).
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
Since January 2018, Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals. This includes East Africa Tourist Visas. However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer.
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the Rwanda Online Visa Application System to apply for the Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa. Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.” Here you will find an online application form and all the guidance necessary to apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process with the best guidelines.
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry, you can request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is uptodate).
October 2022 In theory, you can purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa in cash (US dollars/GBP/Euros) on arrival at Entebbe International Airport, but you may not be allowed to board the plane without your visa approval letter). Therefore, use the Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa. Please read my blog NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online, which I review frequently. (This includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more).
The Muzungu’s recommendation: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may insist you provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration (like I have before, to my cost); they aways have the last word. You are advised to bring an itinerary with you, if you have one, or they may deny you an EATV (and simply issue you with a single entry Uganda tourist visa).
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop! Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.
In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.
March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
Tanzania
It was announced in 2014 that Tanzania would join the East Africa Tourist Visa but there is no information available online. [Checked again October 2022].
Burundi
Sadly, few people are travelling to Burundi currently because of the political situation. We hope life in Burundi improves quickly and that we can welcome them to the EATV party before too long.
South Sudan
One day, we hope…
DR Congo
In 2022, the Democratic Republic of Congo became the seventh member of the EAC but there is no news about it joining the East Africa Tourist Visa.
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.
Notes from friends and family regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but who then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna now (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
Remember: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may ask you to provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, you are advised to bring one with you, if you have one. Hotel bookings serve the same purpose.
Do you have any questions on the East Africa Tourist Visa? I update this page frequently.
Do you have any advice to share? If so, please add your comments below or feel free to contact the Muzungu. If you’re looking for more East Africa visa advice, read NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online and Rwanda announces: all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival.
Huge boost for Kenya tourism as UK relaxes travel restrictions
Kenya moves from red list to amber list
Finally! Kenya 🇰🇪 is off the UK’s red list! This will take effect at 4am, Wednesday 22 September 2021.
For the last few months, tens of thousands of British people have been denied the chance to travel to Kenya, one of their favourite holiday destinations. Equally, red list restrictions have been disastrous for Kenyans wanting to visit friends and relatives in the UK, and those who study or work in the UK.
While we appreciate the need to protect ourselves and others from COVID-19, the British “traffic light system” has created untold frustrations for travellers. Travel restrictions continue to cause massive financial losses for developing countries whose economies are reliant on tourism.
At the time of writing, leisure travel to red list countries is banned by the UK government and remains in place for Uganda, Rwanda, South Africa and many other countries. (Ironically, the UK has some of the world’s highest COVID infection rates). November 2021: travel is a continuous state of flux. If you have any East Africa travel-related questions you are always welcome to message me directly.
Are you traveling to Kenya?
According to the Magical Kenya website, all passengers travelling to Kenya from the UK must have a negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate conducted within 96 hours before travel. (Children under the age of five are exempt).
In addition, all passengers are required to self-isolate for seven days upon arrival (except if you are coming from the exempted countries) and must take a PCR test four days after arrival. [September 18th: will visitors to Kenya still need to self-isolate after 22nd September? I am looking for official guidance on that and shall update this blog once I find it].
All travellers need to complete a COVID-19 Travellers Health Surveillance Form before travelling. You’re advised to download the QR code which you will need to show to Port Health officials on arrival.
Are you travelling to the UK from Kenya?
According to the East African (September 17th 2021) “Travellers from Kenya will be exempted from compulsory hotel quarantine, although they may be required to isolate for 10 days and take tests.”
Read more about the red and amber list travel restrictions on the British government’s website.
I know from first-hand experience how creative we have to be if we want to avoid quarantine! In July 2021, I travelled from ‘red list Uganda’ via Spain in order to get into the UK without quarantining.
I regularly visit Kenya so I’m absolutely thrilled that red list restrictions are being removed. We now need Uganda, Rwanda, and South Africa to be removed from the UK’s red list!
