Now is the time to take precautions! Says US Embassy
Letter to U.S. Citizens in Uganda: Now is the Time to take Precautions!
The muzungu writes: This letter dated 7th August 2020 has been circulating among expats in Uganda but you don’t need to be American to take this letter very seriously đ
Summary (but please read the whole article):
- We are now entering a new phase of the COVID-19 outbreak in Uganda.
- For each death you see on the news, there may be hundreds of infected persons linked to them who were never detected. If those infected persons are not wearing a mask and socially distancing, which most people unfortunately are not, then they are out in public right now and may be infecting other people.
- Kampala has a lot more cases of COVID-19 than are currently known.
- Weâve had âhotspotsâ of community transmission for several weeks now in other areas of the country, and will expect to see more.
- If you were not paying attention before because it seemed there was no COVID-19 in your area, PAY ATTENTION NOW. People who are infected may show NO SYMPTOMS â meaning that you could be a carrier and you wouldnât even know it â and still transmit the virus to other people.
- Wear a mask whenever you go out of your house.
- Masks only work if everyone is wearing them, and wearing them correctly.
- Keep your hands clean. Carry a little bottle of soapy water if you donât want to buy sanitizer.
- If you develop even a slight cough or a fever, if you realize you canât seem to smell or taste things anymore, STAY HOME.
- COVID-19 is spreading right here, right now â donât let it be you.
Dear fellow Americans:
I hope that each of you is well and staying safe. During this challenging time, I want to ensure you have the information that you need to stay up-to-date and make informed decisions.
Uganda has handled COVID-19 very well to date, but we are now entering a new phase of the outbreak. As many of you are aware, the Government of Ugandaâs initial target for COVID-19 was to prevent, prevent, prevent, by closing the airport, testing people at borders, and quarantining travelers starting in March. These quick and decisive actions succeeded in largely preventing importation of COVID-19 into Uganda for far longer than most countries. After that, the goal was to delay, delay, delay. As more cases entered and a small number of unlinked cases were found, intensive efforts were put forth to trace nearly 100% of contacts of cases and stall the spread of the outbreak, buying valuable time to prepare the healthcare system for the inevitable influx of large number of patients.
Since June, the Government of Uganda has started to ease lockdown measures. We are now moving into an approach of manage, manage, manage (or, âflatten the curveâ). We know now that there are many asymptomatic cases for each symptomatic one, and many symptomatic cases for each person who dies with COVID-19 disease. We have seen a handful of deaths in a very short time without seeing the increase in diagnosis of asymptomatic or symptomatic cases at the same time. What that means is that for each death you see on the news, there may be hundreds of infected persons linked to them who were never detected. If those infected persons are not wearing a mask and socially distancing, which most people unfortunately are not, then they are out in public right now and may be infecting other people. COVID-19 is in Kampala â possibly a lot of it.
Please let me repeat. Kampala has a lot more cases of COVID-19 than are currently known. They wonât show up on the daily press releases because there are not enough test kits to do widespread community testing (although there are intense efforts underway to bridge that gap). In this phase of the outbreak, we find out about clusters of patients when one gets sick enough to show up at a clinic, and that clinic knows to report that they have a possible case. For each sick patient who shows up at a clinic, there are many more who may not get very sick, but who can still spread the virus to others. In the phase we are now in, we will continue to have a lot of cases out there that we just donât know about. And it is not only Kampala. Weâve had âhotspotsâ of community transmission for several weeks now in other areas of the country, and will expect to see more.
This is not unexpected. We knew that community transmission (identification of cases unlinked to other known cases) would eventually begin, and Uganda would start the upward climb in cases that nearly every other country has seen. We are now there. If you were not paying attention before because it seemed there was no COVID-19 in your area, PAY ATTENTION NOW. People who are infected may show NO SYMPTOMS â meaning that you could be a carrier and you wouldnât even know it â and still transmit the virus to other people. That vendor you interacted with yesterday? The one who had his mask around his neck instead of over his face while he chatted with you? He could have given you COVID-19, and you could infect everyone you talk to before you even realize it happened. As we go into the fifth month since the initial cases were introduced into Uganda, it is safest to simply assume that everyone you meet is infected. This is not a call to panic, but an encouragement to return to the behaviors that will keep us safe. In this phase of increasing community transmission, it is up to each of us to protect ourselves, follow the guidelines, and do our part.
Wear a mask whenever you go out of your house. If you are infected, cloth masks protect other people from you. Cloth masks do not protect you from other infected people. Because of this, masks only work if everyone is wearing them, and wearing them correctly over the nose and mouth, whether or not they have symptoms. Even outside, if you are standing close to a person who is talking directly at you, that can be enough to transmit the infection. Keep your distance and walk away from anyone who doesnât want to put on a mask before they talk to you. Wear your mask always, but to protect yourself you must make sure that everyone around you wears their mask also. In this outbreak, each person must do their part to keep everyone safe.
Keep your hands clean. Carry a little bottle of soapy water if you donât want to buy sanitizerâitâs cheap and the soap kills the virus very well. Donât touch your mask a lot, and donât touch your face until youâve washed your hands. Make sure everyone who lives in the same house as you also knows these important guidelines so they donât bring the virus home to you and others in your household.
If you develop even a slight cough or a fever, if you realize you canât seem to smell or taste things anymore, or otherwise feel like you might have symptoms of what folks call âflu,â STAY HOME. When symptoms first start, you wonât be able to tell if what you have is COVID-19 or some other more normal cold or âfluâ, so play it safe and stay home. If you are feeling even a little sick, stay away from your family members as much as possible. Put a mask on even at home to protect others in your house. Wash your hands a LOT and clean the surfaces in your house a lot. If you feel any shortness of breath, or if your symptoms get worse, call the Ministry of Health on the toll free lines at 0800-100-066 or 0800-203-033 so they can direct you to the best location to receive care.
Stay safe out there. COVID-19 is spreading right here, right now â donât let it be you. If we all stay home to the degree possible, stay distant, and make sure masks are being worn by everyone around us and our hands are clean, we WILL reduce the impact this outbreak will have on our families, our communities, and Uganda.
Thank you all,
Christopher Krafft, Charge dâAffaires, U.S. Embassy Kampala, Uganda
The muzungu adds: Are you looking for more coronavirus information in Uganda? Read my post that is packed full of practical tips, information and health advice. Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda. This post includes telephone numbers and links to many resources.
Are you working from home? Read my blog Coronavirus survival tips: how to work from home based on my many years doing exactly that!
Stay safe one and all 🙌
Ugandaâs tourism private sector demands airport reopening
Anger and disappointment over continued Entebbe International airport closure set tone for private sector meeting.
This article was originally published on 05th August 2020 on ATCNews.org.
[NOTE: Scheduled flights to / from Entebbe Airport will resume on October 1st 2020.]
Ugandaâs tourism, hospitality and aviation private sector stakeholders met at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel (4th August) to discuss an action plan vis a vis the continued closure of Entebbe International Airport and the ominous silence of government over this issue.
The only more recent mention about the airport closure came from none other than President Museveni who in a recent address to the nation said the airport would remain closed âuntil the situation abroad settles because there is so much chaos in some countries abroad,’ leaving everyone guessing when that might be given the raging nature of the pandemic at present in the United States, South America and countries like Iran.
Tourism in Uganda was in the past the leading foreign exchange earner and created hundreds of thousands of primary, secondary and tertiary jobs for Ugandans and the collapse of the industry since the initial lockdown of the airport was announced in late March, has driven companies to the brink of financial collapse and in many cases beyond.
Stakeholders have in the past repeatedly interacted with ATCNews over their plight and the publication has used every opportunity to highlight the fallout of this increasingly grotesque situation, when in particular neighbours like Rwanda and Kenya â both with significantly higher #COVID19 caseloads â have reopened their airports and started to welcome tourists back.
Following the meeting have the same stakeholders also dismissed the contention of aviation officials that the country must not rush into the reopening of the airport and that more preparations are needed, accusing them and the ministry responsible for sleeping on the job, while all around Uganda air transport has resumed â and in the case of Ethiopia never stopped at all.
One senior stakeholder also repeated earlier angry outbursts to ATCNews that national airline Uganda Airlines continued to be grounded, apart from a few repatriation flights â saying that government put a billion US Dollar investment at risk, which was paid for by the Ugandan taxpayers.
âThe airline did a remarkable job over the first 6 months of operation and captures market share at the expense of regional competitors. The announced new destinations like Johannesburg and Kinshasa just before the pandemic reached Uganda. Since end March is the airline now grounded but two Airbus A330 models ordered are being constructed right now in Toulouse. Those two aircraft will cost Uganda about half a billion Dollars when ready for delivery but in the meantime has the airline not earned a single shilling because the airport is closed.
How those responsible for this closure see Uganda Airlines re-entering the market when right now the main competitors run away with the business is anyoneâs guess. I know the airline staff will pull out all stops to succeed but our own government is tilting the playing field. This is not just the case for the airline but for the entire tourism sector. We had a competitive advantage over Rwanda for gorilla tracking but that too has been lost. Rwanda is welcoming back tourists to the track primates and here in Uganda are primate tourism activities still suspended. The lower permit fees Rwanda has launched also go at our expense. I think it is once again proven that our government simply does not understand tourism and fails to appreciate how much the sector has done for the country, investments, tax payments, job creation and forex earnings. Shame on them!â
Local television featured some of the meeting situations:
Others raised questions with ATCNews where all the international financial relief and support has gone, as the sector has not seen a shilling of it and remains starved of resources while in most urgent need of grants and long term soft loans to recover from five months of no income while shouldering all the expenses like rent, utilities and other monthly payments.
A top level private sector official from Kenya in the meantime also confirmed to ATCNews that their preparations for the reopening of domestic flights on the 15th of July and of international flights on the 01st of August was weeks in the making with private sector stakeholders cooperating with government and aviation officials, to vet and then set out to implement ICAO guidelines for the safe reopening of air transport.
âWe looked at ICAOâs set of new normal operating procedures, checked what IATA has been developing and as a result were all these measures put into place to allow for domestic and international flights to reopen. For Kenya Airways it was crucial to resume operations because the losses weighed heavily on them but also on other airlines based in Kenya. By today we have seen Lufthansa return to Nairobi but also British Airways, KLM, Air France, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Ethiopian Airlines and a few others and Ethiopian has also resumed flights to Mombasa. It was the level of early preparation towards reopening our skies which allowed us to meet our target dates.’
Similar comments were also received from a senior tourism official in Rwanda, who declined to be named however for not being an official spokesperson.
It is understood by ATCNews that government has formed a committee led by First Deputy Prime Minister Moses Ali but that announcement met with a level of disbelief by industry stakeholders as it indicates that not nearly enough preparation and planning had gone into the reopening of Ugandaâs airspace for scheduled passenger flights compared with neighbours Rwanda and Kenya have accomplished.
ATCNews will continue to monitor the situation and update readers on progress made towards the reopening of Entebbe International Airport.
Diary of a Muzungu writes: ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News is written by aviation and tourism expert Prof Wolfgang Thome. Read my interview with him here The future of travel in East Africa: Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome.
The future of travel in East Africa: Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome
Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome: travel post covid-19 in Uganda and East Africa
With over 40 yearsâ experience working in tourism and aviation in Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, Professor Wolfgang Thome is uniquely placed to share his insights on the future of travel post covid-19 in East Africa and across the continent. If you want to know what is happening in tourism circles in Nairobi, Cape Town, the Seychelles or Lagos, Wolfgang is your man! (The above photo was taken at Kilimanjaro Airport in 2017. Pictured with us are fellow travel writers Solomon Oleny and Edgar Batte).
Travel has been impacted more than any other aspect of our lives. For some of us, that affects everything: our business, our lifestyle, our ability to spend time with close family. As we try and assess what the new normal looks like, I decided to ask Wolfgang his views. He is both a frequent traveller and in daily contact with airlines, hotels and tourism boards across Africa.
Overall, Uganda seems to be doing well with our approach to managing coronavirus. Do you think this will encourage tourists to travel to Uganda post covid-19?
Initially did Uganda indeed do very well based on the experience with past Ebola and Marburg outbreaks. Numbers kept stable but those responsible took their eyes off the ball with regard to truck drivers entering from Tanzania, Kenya and South Sudan. It took too long for them to take public input seriously and get off their high horses and institute checks before trucks were allowed to enter Uganda. What is needed is to restore public trust and confidence. ‘Beautifying’ numbers is a transparent ploy to make the country look better … yet, numbers are going up again, literally every day. We therefore have some way to go to demonstrate to potential visitors from overseas – when they are allowed to come in again without mandatory quarantine – that Uganda is safe and ready to host them.
What opportunities do you see for the Ugandan / East African tourism and travel industry post covid-19?
The main opportunity right now I see is in domestic tourism. Kenya has reached a domestic tourism percentage of over 55 percent (domestic tourists as a percentage of overall visitors). We in Uganda need to move towards such goals too. That said, discounting factors in Kenya for domestic tourists can reach 65 per cent off published rates and in some cases even more … so Uganda’s hotel and lodge operators need to take a leaf from that rebating level if domestic tourism is to truly take off. The present US Dollar rates quoted for hotels and lodges also need to go out of the window for Ugandans who want to pay in their own currency. Achieving this is possible but requires a major shift in mindset.
Read #MohammedHersiâs take on the future of the tourism industry â Post #COVID19 on Wolfgang’s website. Hersi is Chairman of the Kenya Tourism Federation.
Wolfgang, you are a speaker at a number of tourism events and exhibitions across Africa, notably AfriaDev in South Africa and Nigeria Travel Week. In your view, what is the future for big trade events like Magical Kenya and Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
I do regularly speak at major aviation and tourism events and trade shows across Africa. Unfortunately as of now, some eight such engagements have been postponed and cancelled this year. I do not see any major tourism event taking place this year and our hope is now based on 2021 and no secondary or tertiary Coronavirus infection waves.
When it comes to regional events does the Karibu – KiliFair excel as the largest such fair in Eastern Africa. The more local events like the Magical Kenya Travel Expo in Nairobi, the Swahili International Tourism Exhibition in Dar es Salaam or the Pearl of Africa Travel Expo in Kampala are focusing mainly on promoting their respective countries, which is of course why they were established. The big African tourism trade shows like the Africa Travel Week, which includes World Travel Market Africa, IBTM and ILTM, Indaba in Durban or We Are Africa in contrast promote many African safari and beach destinations and are therefore bringing larger numbers of exhibitors and trade visitors together from around the world.
What is the future for aviation travel post covid-19 in Uganda, East Africa and the African continent?
Brussels Airlines will resume European flights as of 15th of June 2020 and should be back in Entebbe, in combination with Kigali, from probably mid-July although no details are available, even for me, at this moment on how many flights they will launch with. The route to Bujumbura in Burundi is due to follow by mid-August. Kenya Airways intends to relaunch flights as of 8th of June and Safarilink and Jambojet, as soon as the Kenyan government lifts the movement restrictions in and out of Nairobi County, Mombasa County, Kwale County (Ukunda) and Kilifi County (Malindi). Please read my blog ATC News where I publish all the latest information about resumption of flights in East Africa and beyond.
At what point do you think we should reopen primate tourism and should there be limits?
While we wait for any scientific evidence on the possible virus transmission from humans to primates, is it better to err on the side of caution and not open tracking for gorillas, chimpanzees, golden monkeys and other primate species. As and when primate tourism reopens, will visitors obviously have to wear masks and may even need to be tested before being allowed to track. The timeframe for reopening depends on the advice of veterinarians and scientists and we ought to listen to their advice.
Will you be travelling this year? If so, where?
As I mentioned before, eight of my speaking engagements and attendances were cancelled while I cancelled two planned trips to Kenya between late February 2020 and now for obvious reasons: borders are still closed, air transport is not yet available and while the virus keeps spreading, in any country I may want to visit like Germany, Belgium, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana, I will not endanger myself nor my grandkids when I come home. This means that for all intent and purpose, regional and international travel for me will start again next year though I intend to use the time gained to step up travel across Uganda.
Tell us about a typical day in lockdown for you Prof.
A typical day includes my regular writing of articles and news items for ATCNews.org, the preparation of the daily #COVID19 updates at 6 am and 6 pm and, while the lockdown lasted, also a regular dose of humour under the headings #CoronaHumour #CoronaMemes.
During the day I spend as much time as I can find with my grandchildren. I take regular walks through the garden with my grandson in tow to show him birds, butterflies, insects, flowers and orchids and then devote time to cooking meals. If I cannot have a served Egg Benedict once in a while I just have to prepare them myself. What I have refrained from doing is participating in the tsunami wave of webinars and video conferences of which, when available, I read the summaries only to realise I did not miss a lot.
I hardly miss my once a week or once a fortnight trips into the city (apart from those Eggs Benedict at Kampala Serena Hotel and Mestil Hotel). I do check in regularly with key contacts via email or WhatsApp and so overall there was hardly any change in my day’s pattern compared to pre-lockdown days.
How will you proceed when the lockdown has been lifted?
Now that the lockdown has been lifted in a qualified way with the use of private vehicles possible again, I will nevertheless exercise utmost caution and restraint. My visits to the city will be far and few between while infection numbers in Uganda are still on the rise. I urge your readers to exercise similar caution and take extra care in their movements and interaction with others. Stay safe!
I hope to spend more time travelling around Uganda in the coming months. Note for example that Rainforest Lodge Mabira set to reopen on Monday 1st June 2020.
Who is Professor Wolfgang Thome?
Wolfgang is a prolific writer and blogger at ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News. He is an aviation expert and has worked at a strategic level in tourism across East Africa for over four decades.
As lockdown eases, I will relaunch my popular âIntroduction to Digital Marketing for Tourismâ workshops where we discuss: how hotel staff can encourage guests to write positive TripAdvisor reviews and check in on Facebook; tips for using Instagram and Facebook Business Pages; video marketing, Instastories, YouTube, Facebook Stories and WhatsApp status updates; email marketing and how to work with bloggers.
How we travel post covid-19 remains unclear but travel we will – in time. A big thank you to Wolfgang for keeping us up to date on the future of travel in East Africa. Remember to check out his blog ATCNews.org and follow him on Twitter and Facebook.
We Asked for Fascinating Stories of Lockdown Abroad. And Wow, Did We Get Them
Fodorâs Travel writers around the world share what life is like under lockdown. (Scroll down to read how lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest looks – one year down the line.)
Fodor’s Travel asks What are expats around the world doing during Coronavirus?
“With guidebooks that cover every continent except Antarctica, Fodorâs has a network of writers that extends across the globe. Some of our writers cover the places in which they grew up, while others are constantly on the move. Here, weâve asked some of our expat writers what itâs like to be a travel writer who canât return to their home country.”
Kibale Forest, western Uganda
March 25th 2020: “Lockdown is imminent in Uganda. The airport and borders are closed, and all schoolchildren were sent home two weeks ago. Bars, restaurants, markets, churches, and mosques are closed until further notice (and ban-breakers are being arrested). However, few people are taking social distancing seriously and with crowded public transport and densely populated slums, we are bracing ourselves for the worst. Until a couple of weeks ago, most Ugandans thought coronavirus was a disease that only affected China until we had our first confirmed case last weekâa 36-year-old Ugandan man who had traveled to Dubai.
I live off-grid on the edge of Kibale National Park; I am in an enviable position. However, we are scared too. If one of us is ill, clinics are a long drive away and poorly-equipped when we get there. Although we are in such a lucky position, deep in the village and with a good supply of food, we have lost all our business. The capital Kampala is six hours away and my travel via public transport is no longer an option.
My income is from tourism. Most of my clients are tour operators and lodges who have had virtually all their trips and bookings canceled. We have no accommodation bookings. Iâve been alarmed at the lack of information online in Uganda about coronavirus, so I have published a blog about coronavirus that collates the best (verified) information. Iâm updating it on a regular basis in my attempt to bridge the information gap here. Itâs given me purpose too. Overall, Iâm doing okay emotionally, but my biggest worry is my 70+-year old parents in the UK; I have not seen them for over a year.
We are prepared for full-on lockdown here in Kibale Forest. I now exercise every day and try to sleep well (and act silly as often as I can manage!) We start home-schooling my nine-year-old nephew this week â there are challenges in every direction we look!”
âCharlotte Beauvoisin’s profile on Fodor’s.com
You can read the full article, with contributions from 20 travel writers from across the world, on Fodor’s Travel.
“When sheâs not traveling around East Africa, yoÂuâll find Charlotte Beauvoisin watching chimpanzees and birds from the balcony of her wooden cottage on the edge of Kibale National Park, Uganda. Sheâs lived in Uganda since 2009 and has updated the Uganda section of Fodorâs Complete Guide to the African Safari. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.“
The Muzungu adds: I joke to Julia that we have ‘won the Lockdown Lottery.’ Every morning I walk the forest-edge trails of Sunbird Hill. It is quite something to have this all to ourselves and I treasure every moment: birding, butterfly-watching, and occasionally chimp watching too! There is so much to see, hear and learn about Kibale Forest, nature is throwing stories at me ‘thick and fast.’ Lockdown has given me the time to learn more bird calls, identify butterflies and Coleoptera (beetles), watch primates and teach my 9 year old nephew Dillon how to take photos. I know the trails like the back of my hand now…
I left the comforts of Kampala for a temporary sojourn on the edge of Kibale National Park. Two years later and I’m still based here! Since I’m frequently on the road – anywhere between Watamu on the Kenyan coast and Musanze in the northern province of Rwanda, lockdown in Kibale Forest – with no tourists – is in fact quite a treat, an opportunity to immerse myself in a beautiful corner of East Africa…
March 2021: Grateful everyday recalls a year of #LockdownDiaries – locked down with nature.
So how has lockdown been for you? Have you learned anything new? I hope you are managing to get outside too 🤗
Bradt Uganda – the definitive guidebook. Edition 9 out now!
Interview with author and travel writer Philip Briggs
It’s funny to think that twelve years ago I knew very little about Uganda. My teenage dream was to live in sub-Saharan Africa and finally I was here, working as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. The first book I bought was the *Bradt Guidebook, the go-to travel planning resource for Uganda. Imagine how delighted I was – a decade later – to finally meet author Philip Briggs on a fact-finding trip to Uganda and how excited I am to be a (minor) contributor to the new edition.
As you might guess, I had been wanting to meet Philip for a long time. I had lots of questions I wanted to ask him! He is author of dozens of guidebooks to a long list of countries. When I grow up, I want to be like Phil.
Youâve been writing the Uganda guidebook for almost 30 years. Where did you travel on your first visit here?
“I first visited Uganda in 1988 on the recommendation of another backpacker I met in Kenya. I travelled to Ruhija (Bwindi Impenetrable Forest) on the back of a tractor to track mountain gorillas. Back then it only cost US$1 but the gorillas werenât really habituated, and I didnât see them, just heard them voicing their disapproval from the depths of a facing slope. Since then I have had several more successful tracking excursions, in Rwanda and the Congo as well as in Uganda!
I returned to Uganda in 1992 to research the first edition of the Bradt Guide. A highlight of that trip was a 30 km bike ride from Bulisa to Murchison Falls. There was no lodge there then, I stayed in a Uganda Wildlife Authority / UPDF camp, which is now the site of Red Chilli. I also did the boat ride to the Bottom of Murchison Falls.”
What do you think of tourism in Uganda now?
“Tourism has come a long way since the late 80s and early 90s, when there were a handful of âproperâ hotels, and facilities catering to budget travellers were pretty limited. Now there are often dozens of good hotels and lodges in places that then had nothing â for instance Lake Bunyonyi, Murchison Falls, Bwindi, Bujagali.
I didnât visit Uganda between 2005 and 2015 (a period during which the book was updated by Andrew Roberts) and I saw massive changes â almost all for the better – in Uganda’s tourism industry when finally I did return in 2015.
Uganda tourism hasn’t changed a lot since the last edition of the Bradt Guidebook (published in 2016). Tourism seem to have stabilised and got better overall.
On my most recent visit (2019), I was very impressed with the standard of guiding by Uganda Wildlife Authority. All the guides we had on our most recent trip come across as being very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the park where they work, and its wildlife.”
What happens if you visit a lodge or hotel thatâs in the guide and the standards have dropped?
âWhen I first started writing the Bradt Uganda Guidebook 30 years ago, there were just a few hotels and lodges, so I included them all, even those that warranted quite negative write-ups. These days there are far too many for us to include them all, so accommodation listings are more selective, and I tend to just remove anywhere that I canât write about in a positive way.”
What is the value of buying a guidebook in these days of social media?
“Online information for countries like Uganda still tends to be quite scattered and patchy. Guidebooks tend to be more comprehensive and coherent resources, with a lot of background and contextual information set against practical information, accommodation and restaurant listings and cross-referenced maps. The Bradt Guide in particular has pretty much all the information you would need to plan a trip to Uganda in one place, logically organised by somebody who knows the country well into cohesive and well-structured regional chapters over almost 600 pages. You simply wonât find that kind of thing in the internet.
That is not to knock social media and other online resources; they most certainly have their place. For me, though, I would still always prefer to use a good guidebook as my initial and primary planning resource and switch over to social media and other online resource for supplementary information.
I also find that people who rely on word-of-mouth channels often end up visiting the same few well-publicised places and doing the same few activities. A guidebook generally offers a greater diversity of off-the-beaten-track options.â
For people who already have a copy of the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, why should they buy the latest edition?
“The most substantial change to the new edition is the expanded coverage of Karamoja and the north-east of Uganda. However, it’s also lots and lots of small details: removing places that have closed and the inclusion of many new places that opened since the eighth edition was researched. (For example in the vicinity of Kibale Forest, we’ve included at least six new lodges, hotels and restaurants, and Sunbird Hill). Prices and contact details for more established lodges are also fully updated. Essentially with edition nine, the Uganda Bradt Guidebook is a whole lot more up-to-date!
Bradt co-author Andrew Roberts was responsible for updating the Kampala section of the guidebook, which has been reorganised to promote more activities and days out.”
What is your least favourite activity when you are researching a destination?
âChecking hotels and lodges. There seem to be more places that need checking with every new edition, and it isnât something that personally interests me, but it needs to be done!”
Is travel still fun when youâre a travel writer?
âGenerally, yes. If Iâm walking around a town in the sunshine, itâs certainly more fun than sitting behind a desk. If youâre tracking chimps, itâs great fun of course but if youâre looking at hotels itâs âŚâ Philip pulls a face… (so I think we can guess the answer to that one!)
Diary of a Muzungu writes: Thanks Philip for your insights! It’s amazing to read how much Uganda has changed in the last 30 years.
What’s new for edition 9?
I was delighted to make a few recommendations for the latest edition of Bradt Uganda. They included:
Entanda Cultural Adventure in Mityana
“Head to the award-winning Entanda Cultural Adventure in Mityana to experience a few hours of traditional Ugandan life: expect a joyous welcome of dancing and drumming, bountiful organic fruits, a local lunch and a chance to try traditional hunting and listen to the traditional wisdom (and bedroom secrets!) of the ‘senga,’ all part of your initiation into Buganda culture.” Read the full listing in Bradt Uganda edition 9. Entanda also has a listing in my Travel Directory.
In the Shadow of Chimpanzees, Kibale Forest edge
“Brainchild of primatologist Julia Lloyd, Sunbird Hill is a private birding site that coordinates the NatureUganda Bird Population Monitoring Programme for the Kibale area and is affiliated to registered community / conservation charity In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. More than 240 bird species have been recorded, including 13 of 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda, and the keenly sought green-breasted pitta.” Read the full listing in Bradt Uganda edition 9. In the Shadow of Chimpanzees also features in my Travel Directory.
The Bradt Uganda Guidebook is quite a tome (at 600+ pages, paperback or digital), but there is no other guidebook like it. It works very well read in conjunction with Diary of a Muzungu 😊”arguably Uganda’s two best travel resources,” according to Mr Briggs.
Bradt Uganda also has an update site where travellers can share their experiences. Philip refers to these updates when he and Andrew Roberts are updating the guidebook, every three years. (Some lodges find it useful to add information there too although there’s no guarantee of inclusion in the subsequent guidebook).
Who is Philip Briggs?
Philip Briggs has been exploring the highways, byways and backwaters of Africa since 1986, when he spent several months backpacking on a shoestring from Nairobi to Cape Town. In 1991, he wrote the Bradt guide to South Africa, the first such guidebook to be published internationally after the release of Nelson Mandela. Over the rest of the 1990s, Philip wrote a series of pioneering Bradt travel guides to destinations that were then – and in some cases still are – otherwise practically uncharted by the travel publishing industry. These included the first dedicated guidebooks to Tanzania, Uganda, Ethiopia, Malawi, Mozambique, Ghana and Rwanda, new additions of which been published regularly ever since. More recently, he has authored Bradt guides to Somaliland, Suriname, Sri Lanka and The Gambia, all published by Bradt. He spends at least four months on the road every year, usually accompanied by his wife, the travel photographer Ariadne Van Zandbergen, and spends the rest of his time battering away at a keyboard in the sleepy coastal village of wilderness in South Africa’s Western Cape.
How do I buy a copy of this fantabulous what to the what guidebook?
Click here to visit the Bradt Guides website. The guidebook is also available at Aristoc in Kampala and all good bookshops.
Are you a Bradt Guidebook fan? Which places in Uganda have you discovered as a result of reading the book? I’d love to know đ
How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel
The Nairobi Serena Hotels’s Architectural, Cultural and Conservation tour takes you on a fascinating voyage of discovery across the continent – and is highly recommended!
On my last trip to Nairobi, I stayed at the fabulous – gorgeously renovated – Nairobi Serena Hotel. Over breakfast (an event in itself!) I planned a dayâs sightseeing.
I was disappointed to see the rain falling and reluctantly shelved my plan to take a short walk through Uhuru Gardens to the Murumbi Gallery at Point Zero. The Murumbi Gallery started as the private collection of Joseph and Sheila Murumbi who travelled the continent to curate a mind-boggling collection of artefacts that present African culture through hundreds of years of craftsmanship. The scope and beauty of the Murumbi Gallery’s collection is breath-taking. I have to visit every time Iâm in Nairobi.
When I learned that the Nairobi Serena Hotel has their very own Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour, you can imagine my delight! In fact, this unique hotel tour is led by the highly professional concierge Felix Tiony who was trained at the very same Murumbi Gallery. There was no need to brave the rain: I could have my cultural experience (with a personal guide) within the comfort of the hotel.
Felix, a Concierge Clefs dâOr, explained how Alan Donovan, chairman of Murumbi Gallery and mastermind of the phenomenal Heritage House, had been curating interiors at Serena Hotels for over 40 years! My affection for Nairobi Serena grew deeper by the moment.
Click on the images in the gallery to read about some of the items on display.
Fragrant flowers are always a central part of the Serena Hotelsâ decor. Here in Nairobi, next to the huge floral displays are intriguing historical artefacts, statues and carvings.
I believe the Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour is only supposed to take one hour but I was so full of questions that Iâm sure I must have taken up three hours of Felixâs time!
This tour is complimentary for hotel guests and Felix has a wealth of interesting details about the artefacts on display. He also revealed the Pan-African theme throughout every space in the hotel. As he described the motifs and their origins, I perceived the same shapes in the flooring, in etchings on glass windows, on furniture. It was thoroughly engaging.
Established in 1976, the Nairobi Serena is certainly not just another Nairobi city hotel. I had a great feeling for its sense of history and its Pan-African theme.
The hotelâs architecture reflects a fusion of cultural influences from West Africa, Morocco, North Africa and Islam. Click on the images below to see the Bambara Lounge, named after the Bambara community of Mali and designed around a West African theme. The gorgeous hand-carved camphor wood panels depict African legends and superstition. The backdrop to the Mandhari Fine Dining Restaurant is a 60-foot Kisii soapstone mural of the Ngong Hills by Jony Waite. I loved the colourful lanterns, tapestry screens and Moroccan-inspired brass decorations of the Cafe Maghreb restaurant, also pictured below. The Ethiopian-themed Aksum Bar is named after the Northern Ethiopian town. The Kingdom of Aksum reigned at the heart of ancient Ethiopia until the 13th century. The Aksum Barâs unique style is fittingly fun for a sports bar!
My guide Felix pointed out the motif of âan abstracted lizard,â that originates from the Senofu people of Cote DâIvoire where it can be seen carved on doors and is believed to be a sign of wealth and status. This is just one of many interesting symbols that run throughout the design of the hotel. (By the way, descriptions of various artefacts here are taken from the exquisite book My journey through African heritage by Alan Donovan, which is available in the Nairobi Serena gift shop).
The Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour is also available at the Serena Beach Resort & Spa in Mombasa and Kampala Serena Hotel and is complimentary to all in-house guests.
If you’d like to experience the Nairobi Serena Hotels’s tour for yourself, call +254 (0)202 842333 / (0)732 123333. Read more about the fabulous Nairobi Serena Hotel’s 5 star facilities in my Travel Directory. It’s gorgeous beyond words!
Back in the saddle – horseplay at Speke Equestrian Centre
Straight from the horse’s mouth: what’s on at Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo
I loved being back in the saddle again. The smell of horses is addictive!
Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo for horse riding, hacking, pony rides for children, horse riding lessons, kids’ Pony Camp.
It surprises me how little leisure time Kampala residents spend next to Lake Victoria, when I know how refreshed I feel after just an hour or two by its waters.You can’t beat the feeling of space you have by the lake which is why, if you’re looking for a new hobby or a day out, I highly recommend some time out at Speke Resort, Munyonyo – ideally on a horse at the Equestrian Centre! High on my bucket list of once-in-a-lifetime adventures is doing a multi-day horseback safari. I used to ride when I was a teenager but I know I need to invest in some more riding lessons before I embark on such a big adventure. My recent stay at Speke Resort – and the smell of the horses! – has really whet my appetite for that bigger endeavour.
Preparing for a horse riding lesson at Speke Equestrian Centre. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo
Some of the Speke Equestrian Centre’s horses. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo
If you’re just having a pony ride or ‘taster’ riding session, you (and your horse!) will be led by an expert from Speke Equestrian Centre down to the marina. The horses are calm and well-behaved.
Prices start from 40k ugx for a 20 minute pony ride. A one-hour hack (for experienced riders) is 70k every day (except Sunday and public holidays when it costs 80k). Rates are slightly higher on Sundays and public holidays. Private or group lessons offer good value for money. Packages of ten lessons are also available. For horse riding enquiries, contact Speke Resort.
In conversation with one of the staff at the Equestrian Centre, he explained that they currently have nine ponies and five large horses suitable for adults. They are expecting to acquire another four horses over the coming months.
In addition to the horses and equestrian facilities, the centre also has a bar where parents and friends can meet for a drink while Little Johnny is learning to ride.
Have you heard about the Kid’s Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre?
Learning how to trot at the monthly Kids’ Pony Camp
The Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre is a two-day event training kids how to ride ponies. Children between the ages of 4 and 17 are invited to enroll for the monthly Pony Camp that’s been taking place at Speke Resort Munyonyo since 2015.
Saturday morning is a riding session. No experience is necessary as children are grouped into beginners, intermediate or advanced riders. In the afternoon, the children go swimming in the resort’s Olympic size pool. On Sunday morning, children are treated to a full breakfast at the resort, followed by a morning ride. Pony Camp finishes at 12.30 with a small prize-giving and Certificates of Participation. There are prizes for the weekend’s best participants: the top two riders get medals, and the third placed rider is awarded a Best Camper Certificate.
Speke’s Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets
Pony Camps costs 100,000 Uganda shillings for the two days. This includes an overnight stay at the accommodation block (in separate boys and girls rooms) next to the Equestrian Centre. (Parents who live nearby may wish to take their kids home for the night and bring them back the next morning). The Sunday breakfast is included in the cost. (Parents are expected to cater for the kids’ other meals).
Have you checked out Speke Resort recently?
Not only is it well-equipped for conferences and large meetings, Speke has a range of weekend activities. On Sunday afternoons at Speke Resort from around 3 PM, you can enjoy a DJ and live band, or acrobats and a market for an entry fee of just 5,000 Uganda shillings per person. Friday night is band night at Lake Terrace and complimentary to guests and everyone eating at the restaurant. Saturdays are frequently busy with weddings and wedding parties. Read Olive’s blog #MarryMeAtMunyonyo â Getting Married At Speke Resort, Munyonyo.
The resort’s swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam are a haven for Kampala residents throughout the weekend. Entry is 40,000 ugx for a full day’s swimming (and all-important lounging!)
Why not make a whole weekend of it?
Interior of one of the new suites
At the time of writing, Speke Resort’s weekend package is $180 full board (excluding taxes) for two people sharing and includes all the above activities and more: a half hour boat cruise and a 10 minute horse ride for children. Bed and breakfast and room only weekend rates are also available, visit the Speke Resort site for all tariffs.
Speke Resort’s marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba
Prefer a round of golf? Guests staying at Speke Resort can get a preferential rates at Lake Victoria Serena Hotel’s golf course, a short drive from Munyonyo thanks to the opening of the Entebbe Expressway.
For info on any of the above, call +256 (0)414227111 or (0)417 716000 or email spekeresort@spekeresort.com or reservations@spekeresort.com
And finally, when you visit the resort, perhaps you’ll see me learning how to ride again, practicing for my next big African adventure – on horseback!
17 must-try experiences in Mombasa!
17 must-try experiences in – and on the way to â Mombasa
Mombasa is closer than you think…
I recently flew to the coast – with a few hours stopover in Nairobi. Here are the muzungu’s 17 recommendations on how to fly, where to stay, what to eat, and more!
1. Fly to Mombasa via Nairobi
Our journey to the coast started with an early morning flight from Entebbe to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi.
We passed a day sightseeing in Nairobi, Kenya before catching the short flight to Mombasa.
2. Eat breakfast at Four Points by Sheraton, a hotel that overlooks both the JKIA runway and Nairobi National Park
Breakfast time found us on the outdoor terrace of the Marketplace restaurant of Four Points by Sheraton, a high-class hotel in a unique location.
Whether you are a safari goer or a plane spotter, you’ll love staying at Four Points JKIA. (Rooms are soundproofed so you arenât disturbed by the planes). I could imagine staying here for business meetings between flights. The hotel caters for tourists, walk-in guests and corporates.
3. Take a safari game drive in Nairobi National Park!
It was fun to fit in a game drive before our early evening flight to Mombasa. Nairobi is the only East African city where you can go on a game drive. Here’s my story about my first safari in Nairobi National Park.
4. Eat lunch at ROAST by Carnivore in Karen
5. Hop on the flight to Mombasa
Woo hoo! THE COAST is calling me! We took the evening flight from JKIA to Mombasa’s Moi International Airport.
6. Soak up the nautical theme at Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali, north coast Mombasa
As we entered the gates of Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, north coast Mombasa, the ascari raised his trumpet to sound a fanfare to welcome us on board. The resortâs fun nautical style is apparent throughout: rooms are known as cabins, floors are decks and the staff dress in naval uniforms. The theme continues as the Voyager ‘docks in a new port’ every day, meaning the resort takes on the menus – and more – of the new destination. One day the Voyager docked in Mexico; another day we docked in Mombasa for Swahili breakfast and dinner. Local fabrics adorn the dining room to complete the look.
Voyager Beach Resort is the ideal location for all-inclusive family holidays on the coast. (It’s the kind of place I LOVED as a kid!) Think kidsâ activities, yoga classes, live music, theme nights, family shows, activities for teenagers, watersports centre, gym, three swimming pools, tennis courts and four bars. One night we watched the brilliant Mombasa Roots play live as the ‘Animation Team’ (resort staff dressed in yellow T-shirts with a big letter A on them) got guests moving and a grooving on the dancefloor – (there was some classic Dad Dancing on display too!) Voyager is a mixed crowd of Kenyans and other Africans, Europeans and a few Americans. There’s a super relaxed vibe.
7. Contemplate the colours (and your morals) at the Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple
What a way to start our day… gazing at the gorgeous colours of the templeâs painted walls and doors put me in a fantastic mood. Take a closer look and many of the images are rather scary: dire predictions about how thieves, drinkers and meat eaters will be ravaged in hell. (These graphic warnings did not put us off enjoying everything that Mombasa had to offer us however!)
This temple is a cracker. Thereâs no charge to enter (and if you arrive before 10.30 am they will open the inner sanctum for you). If you admire temples, there is another one further along Haile Selassie Avenue.
8. Stop for a selfie with ‘Pembe za ndovu’ Mombasa’s giant elephant tusks
Pembe za ndovu is the Swahili name for Mombasa’s famous elephant tusks that form a M shape across Moi Avenue. Selfies here are the classic “look at me, I’m in Mombasa” shot.
According to my driver, Mombasaâs tusks (thin sheets of metal) were erected in 1956 by a European. He got the date right. The European was Princess Margaret of Great Britain who visited that year. Does the M stand for Margaret or for Mombasa?
Be mindful of the traffic while posing for your selfie – Moi Avenue is a busy road.
9. Taste local snacks on Mama Ngina Drive
Mama Ngina Drive is famous for the freshly fried kachri ya muhogo cassava crisps and chilli washed down by madafu coconut water â the perfect combo!
You can pick up tourist souvenirs and trinkets on Mama Ngina Drive. (I doubt you should buy the seashells and many countries won’t allow you to take them through customs). This makes thought-provoking reading: You might want to think twice before buying a seashell souvenir.
Iâd avoid the rather dilapidated toilets in the Mama Ngina heritage building if you can. (The blue and white building looks like a lighthouse). The place is clean enough for the cheap entry price but toilet doors don’t seem to lock.
From Mama Ngina Drive, you can watch the non-stop flow of human traffic embarking and disembarking the Likoni Ferry that connects north and south coast Mombasa. As we watched the tens of thousands of people pass by, you might imagine they are running to catch an Underground train in London or the Metro in Paris.
10. Pretend to be a commuter: take the Likoni Ferry
The July weather had us running down the slope in the rain to catch the ferry from Mama Ngina Drive across to Likoni. Pedestrians travel for free; cars, tuk tuks, and heavy lorries pay a small fee. Men on bicycles ship jerry cans; women carry bundles of produce for the market; small trucks are loaded with goats.
As soon as the Likoni Ferry fills up, it sets off for the other side of the creek. The journey lasts just a few minutes but gave us a chance to look upstream to the Port of Mombasa and downstream to the Indian Ocean. The Likoni Ferry may not be on every tourist’s itinerary but it does give you an insight into the everyday lives of the people of Mombasa.
11. Step into 500 years of history with a guided tour of Fort Jesus
Despite numerous trips to – or should I say through – Mombasa, this was my first time to visit Fort Jesus. Entry fees to Fort Jesus are 400 KES (local price) or 1200 KES (muzungu price!) plus guide fee, which is negotiable.
Our guide Dunga recounted the history of Fort Jesus. In 1498, Vasco de Gama – with a Christian cross emblazoned on his sail â first passed the Kenyan coast en route to India. In 1593, the Portuguese invaded and built Fort Jesus as a military garrison.
Beyond the heavy cannons, the Fort Jesus’ small museum records the history of conquests and sieges by the Portuguese, Arabs, Omanis and British. On display are pottery, old stamp collections and beautiful artefacts from Persia, Oman and China. The Omani Museum showcases modern displays in an ancient building. I wish I’d paid more attention. (Next time I’ll leave my camera behind and just take my notebook…)
The areas open to the public are small enough to make Fort Jesus an easy trip of half a day or less. Visit early morning when it is not too hot. Afterwards, drink some fresh tamarind juice under one of the ancient trees on the main road.
Mombasa is a melting pot of African, Arab and European influences. Nowhere is this more evident than in Fort Jesus.
12. Explore the Old Town of Mombasa on foot
The Old Town of Mombasa is an interesting mix of narrow streets and Swahili architecture. Hire a local guide to scratch below the surface of this UNESCO-listed city. I adored the antiques and knick-knacks in the Gallery Shop, one of many curio shops. I could have spent all afternoon browsing!
13. Enjoy the ocean breeze at Forodhani Restaurant
Forodhani’s quiet location is five minutesâ walk from Fort Jesus, next to the Old Port, with a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and English Point, a small promontory of land on the north coast opposite Fort Jesus.
Beyond its setting, the restaurant is nothing special to look at, some plastic tables and chairs, no table decoration. Since I was in a Muslim city, I decided to try a mutton biryani; it came in a spicy tomato sauce with plenty of meat. I also ate a delicious lamb kofta sausage. According to my Kenyan travel companions, the standards were not as good as before. Service was average and staff attention was minimal but lunch was pretty affordable (and the restaurant worth visiting simply for the view and the cool breeze!)
Across the water is English Point Marina, a state of the art luxury development that looks across to Fort Jesus.
14. Chill on a sunset dhow cruise and dine at La Marina Restaurant, Mtwapa
Our sunset cruise along the inland waterways of Mtwapa Creek left from the jetty at La Marina, where our enthusiastic hostess Alice took our dinner orders and organised my preferred tipple of Kenya Cane rum for our cruise boat’s bar. The leisurely cruise was a calming tonic after our day exploring the city of Mombasa. Our small group had the whole creek to ourselves that night. Oh the starlit sky!
The candlelit, open air palm tree terrace at La Marina Restaurant is a romantic setting on the edge of the creek. (I feel relaxed just remembering that night). Dinner was exquisite: calamari in a creamy sauce for me, followed by grilled suli suli Kingfish. Other seafood options were octopus, sushi, baked oysters, king prawns and grilled lobster. I’ve always loved seafood (even more now that I live in land-locked Uganda and visits to the coast are such a treat!)
La Marina Restaurant is a short drive north from Nyali. Call +254 (0)723 223737 for bookings. For the full romance, watch the sun going down aboard a traditional Arab dhow.
15. Feed the giraffes and crocodiles and meet a 200 year old tortoise at Haller Park
During Mombasa’s hot months, there’s no place I’d rather be than here underneath the trees. What a gift Haller Park is!
Haller Park deserves several entries in this list of things to do in Mombasa as there are so many activities you can take part in, from physical exercise to animal feeding to educational tours.
Be there at 11 o’clock or 3 o’clock to take part in the giraffe feeding. Crocodiles also get a little snack every day at 4.40 pm. (They have their main feed of 10 kg of meat just once a month).
There were shrieks from our group as we passed through the reptile enclosure. Many of the snakes had been rescued from local homes. I don’t mind snakes but felt rather nervous when the Puff Adder eyeballed me. That snake has a mean reputation!
During the 1950s, the Haller Park site was a Bamburi Cement quarry. Thanks to the vision of a certain Dr Haller, the barren quarry site was reclaimed for the environment: it is now a popular location for biking and running the nature trails, and school trips, thanks to Lafarge Eco Systems (a subsidiary of Bamburi Cement).
Haller Park opened to the public in 1984. The transformation from barren site to lush woodland is phenomenal and gives me hope for the future.
Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to meet Owen the hippo and Mzee, his giant tortoise buddy! When Owen was stranded after a tsunami, he was rescued by Kenyan villagers. To everyone’s amazement, the orphan hippo and Mzee, a 130-yr-old tortoise, became inseparable. Photos of their friendship made them worldwide celebrities. Their friendship has even spawned a Broadway musical!
16. Admire the multi-coloured starfish on a glass-bottomed boat ride and snorkelling adventure
I never knew starfish came in so many colours! Orange, red, blue, brown and grey were clearly visible as our boat motored along the coast. But note: don’t pick up the starfish. Pulling them out of the water can kill them, even if they are put back! And boat operators turn a blind eye to this…
The highlight of our afternoon was anchoring in shallow water and walking to an exposed sandy ledge of the reef to explore the crevices of the rock pools for sea urchins, starfish and shellfish.
Kenya Wildlife Service manages the country’s protected areas. In addition to the cost of the boat ride, you’ll need to pay the Mombasa Marine National Park entry fee if you want to snorkel.
Snorkeling, scuba-diving lessons, big-game fishing, windsurfing and canoeing and dhow safaris can all be arranged from Voyager Resort.
17. Taste Nyali nightlife!
Next stop Tapas Cielo lounge bar for a Johnnie Walker /DJ night. Eddy Kenzo and Sauti Sol videos made a perfect night of it at Anuba Lounge.
I wish I’d stayed longer in Nyali. I get the feeling that Mombasans are very like Ugandans – they’re easy going and love to party!
More about Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, Mombasa
We were so caught up in sightseeing in Mombasa, Iâm not sure I did the Voyager’s facilities justice. It’s the perfect base for family holidays, with an extensive programme of activities, sports, entertainment, shows and tours for all ages. However, research for this blog forced me to sample the bars – at least!
My favourite was the Lookout Bar (above the beach) and the small Harbour Bar near the restaurant. Go find Raymond – he’s an award-winning cocktail maker!
Voyager caters to many tastes: European, Indian, African and more. While most meals are served buffet-style in the main restaurant, Voyagerâs Minestrone Restaurant has an Italian Ă la carte menu (included in the all-inclusive price).
The Smugglersâ Cove restaurant is hidden in a coral cave! The food was superb (discounted for Voyager residents).
The balcony of my deluxe room looked onto gardens of palm trees, just 50 metres from the beach. It was perfect. The room had aircon, TV (did I even switch it on?), fridge, a good size safe, a powerful shower and plenty of complimentary toiletries. Voyager has 234 cabins, of various styles, each with its own balcony.
Scrabble and a roaring fire: recipe for a cosy weekend at The Peak Spot Lodge, Rwanda
A weekend by an open fireplace at The Peak Spot Lodge “Jewel of the Virunga” a few minutes’ drive from the start of Rwanda’s Mountain Gorilla tracking
TIP: get up early to view the morning mist swirling around the volcanoes in the distance!
I recently spent two nights at The Peak Spot Lodge near Kinigi while researching an ecotourism guide to gorilla tracking. The Peak Spot is a cosy independently-owned lodge ideally located for travellers going gorilla tracking in Rwanda. It’s also a lovely place to just chill out.
This lodge is slightly off the beaten track, but absolutely worth it! You will not hear a vehicle the whole time youâre there.
The last few kilometres to The Peak Spot Lodge are on dirt roads, where progress is slow enough to smile and wave back at the villagers shouting âhello friendâ
An invigorating start to the day: sunshine, fresh air and the smell of Eucalyptus
Every morning I travelled by moto (boda boda) motorbike taxi from The Peak Spot to the start of the gorilla tracking at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters in Kinigi. Here I mingled with tourists, watched the excellent Intore traditional dancers and interviewed some of the rangers who monitor, track, protect – and love â Rwandaâs mountain gorillas.
The drive by motorbike from The Peak Spot to Kinigi took 25 exhilarating minutes door-to-door. I was filming much of the way, enjoying incredible scenery and views of traditional village life. Most of the drive is on an excellent tarmac road that winds along to Kinigi itself.
It can be rather chilly in the mountains (especially for those of us who are used to the year-round warmth of Kampala!) but the lodge staff lit an open fire for us every time we sat down to eat or drink. The all-rounder staff member Alexis always knew when to put another log on the fire or come and refill our drinks. (Itâs hard work playing Scrabble and listening to rock music you know!) He was also there to fill up our hot water bottles and tuck them under the bed covers for us. (Each bedroom also has a heater and a hot shower of course).
The lure of an open fire
“I hate Scrabble” I moaned until my competitive streak kicked in! A whole weekend marathon of Scrabble followed
Dinner was a simple but filling three-course meal of soup, main course and dessert. The Peak Spot has a well-stocked bar. We felt right at home when we noticed the bar stocked our favourite tipples (Uganda Waragi and Bond 7 respectively) but donât forget to try a local beer too! Mutzig goes down a treat.
A close encounter with a member of Rwanda’s Susa family. Click on the image to link through to my “Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla tracking”
Everyone who goes gorilla tracking in Rwanda goes home with a certificate. Bragging rights, yay! My hour with the Susa gorilla family was action-packed
Between daydreams of gorillas and chatting around the fireplace at The Peak Spot, we ran out of time to taste banana wine or go on the community walk to the neighbouring village. I did enjoy walking around the lodge gardens however. The recycled Heineken beer bottle borders to the paths gave an unusual touch to the gardenâs design.
How to travel to The Peak Spot from Kigali
Iâve been lucky enough to stay in a wide variety of lodges across East Africa. âPlanes, trains and automobiles,â Iâve done the lot. On this occasion, we travelled by public transport between Kampala and Kinigi, and it could not have been easier.
Leaving The Peak Spot, we rode motos directly to Musanze (for 2,000 Rwandese francs) to catch a coaster to Kigali (for 1,750 Rwandese francs). From Nyabugogo bus park in central Kigali, we jumped on the Jaguar overnight coach back to the Pearl of Africa.
The Peak Spot âJewel of the Virungaâ is a great base for gorilla tracking, hiking and more
The Peak Spot opened two years ago and currently has one family cottage and three rooms, from $75/night. Two more cottages are being built. This rate includes breakfast lunch and dinner and a sauna. Tents are also available for $20 per person per night (to sleep two or four people).
The lodge has Wi-Fi and a small shop that sells some very cool T-shirts. The lodge even has a sauna! (I will have to come back to try that out). There are also plans to hire a masseur.
Thanks very much to Habib, Alexis, Benon (and all the behind-the-scenes staff that I did not meet). They gave lots of useful advice on the costs of public transport, the weather, what to wear, where to change money, called motos every time we needed one, and more. If you’re looking for an authentic Rwandese experience, at an affordable rate, look no further.
You can contact The Peak Spot via their web site or call +250 788441652. Please say the muzungu sent you đ
Are you interested in tracking the gorillas in Rwanda? Then get in touch with the muzungu for more travel ideas and gorilla tracking tips.
Chasing chimps in Kibale? Then the Bee Hive is your next stop!
The Bee Hive Bar & Bistro Restaurant in Bigodi Town is a hit amongst travellers, tourists and locals.
The Bee Hive is conveniently located directly opposite the Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary, along the excellent Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road. You can’t fail to miss the big brown and honey-coloured striped building!
Looking for a tourist restaurant near Fort Portal? Or somewhere to hang out between chimp tracking in Kibale Forest and Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary Walk?
Just five minutesâ drive from Kanyanchu (the meeting point for tracking chimps in Kibale National Park), The Bee Hive is a great stopover for coffee, tea or cold drinks after tracking the chimpanzees. The reasonably priced restaurant menu includes local favourites like pumpkin soup, goat stew and rolex (omelette in a chapati in case you havenât tried one yet) as well as international dishes, beers, wine and spirits. On a previous visit, I really enjoyed tucking into the spaghetti bolognese (goat of course!)
If youâre a sports fan, The Bee Hive has a pool table with regular pool competitions. You can also watch sports and international news on their 50″ screen and satellite TV. (The Bee Hive is the only venue in the area with a back-up generator back-up – so you wonât miss any of the TV action).
The Bee Hive is recommended in the Bradt Uganda Guide edition 9, the current edition (2021). “Set in a conspicuous orange and brown two-storey building opposite the Bigodi Swamp Walk office, this pub-like venue has a pool table, a TV for watching Premier League and other major football matches and a first floor veranda offering views to the Rwenzori in clear weather. A tempting menu of stews, curries and grills is supplemented by cheaper burritos, breakfast (including Rolexes), fresh coffee and desserts. Mains in the US 4-5 dollar range.”
As the name hints, The Bee Hive also sells honey that is harvested from beehives positioned on the boundary of Kibale National Park to deter elephants crossing to villagers’ land. You can even take part in the unique “Bees and Elephants Tour” which I describe here in my Travel Directory.
I love these kinds of projects, as regular blog readers will remember from my days as a volunteer in elephant and community conservation. (Honey is such a great present to buy for folks back home).
Whether itâs for breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks, I recommend The Bee Hive for good wholesome food, cold drinks (make mine a beer), coffees (Gorilla Conservation Coffee, of course!) ice-cream and a fab view of the countryside. Outside tourist lodges, The Bee Hive is the only restaurant and bar in the area that caters for both local and international tastes.
TIP: If you’re travelling in a group, or want to hold a private meeting call Erias the Manager on +256 (0)785 948488 to reserve your tables.
How to find The Bee Hive
The Bee Hive is midway between Fort Portal and Kamwenge, about 4 km south of Kanyanchu Tourist Centre. To be honest, you canât miss it! Itâs 38 km from Fort Portal and 3.5 km from Sunbird Hill.
For latest updates from the Bee Hive, like the Facebook page.
Love birds, butterflies and chimps? Then don’t miss Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
Scroll down to read all about the half-day Sunbird Hill Experience!
Sunbird Hill Nature Monitoring & Rewilding Site in western Uganda is a haven for nature enthusiasts that have ticked off the Big Five and are ready to search for the smaller â yet equally impressive â creatures of Uganda.
Sunbird Hill is ideally situated for anyone planning to track the chimpanzees or the Green-breasted Pitta in Kibale Forest or for general birdwatching around Kibale Forest. Itâs also a wonderful location to relax and enjoy the pure forest air and the natural sounds emanating from the forest. Iâve been visiting this fabulous part of Uganda regularly since 2009. One definite plus about visiting Sunbird Hill is having the chance to meet Julia Lloyd, the resident primatologist. If you love chimpanzees, youâll be amazed at her stories of her many years living and working deep in Kibale Forest.
National and international experts who visit Sunbird Hill on a regular basis include ornithologists, lepidopterists, herpetologists, botanists, entomologists and primatologists. Bird ringing (or banding) occurs periodically throughout the year. Bird ringing in Kibale Forest is one of my all-time favourite blogs. Contact me if you’d like to learn more about the next ringing trips.
What is Sunbird Hill?
Sunbird Hill Nature Monitoring & Rewilding Site is situated on 40 acres of private land bordering Kibale Forest. It is just off the Fort Portal – Kamwenge Road, 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre (base for chimpanzee tracking in Kibale National Park) and 3.5 km from KAFRED at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary.
Julia writes:
We are a British-Ugandan family passionate about wildlife and conservation. Our compound is a traditional open plan dwelling, with grass thatched houses, a treehouse, a “camp kitchen” and the Birders Lounge. Guests are welcome to stay in one of the three elevated thatched cottages â with expansive views into Kibale Forest â to house visiting biology experts. These are open to the occasional tourist too.
Sunbird Hill is regenerating farmland. This, and its location on the edge of the forest, means the land has numerous microhabitats that give it a high species richness: plants, insects, amphibians, reptiles and mammals and our main passion: birds. Species lists are constantly being updated, and so far we have recorded 16 of the 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda. Our local naturalists, together with ornithologists Roger Skeen and Malcolm Wilson, have recently pushed our bird species list to 295! (A sighting of a lemon dove particularly delighted our Rog).
We know there are many more birds yet to be identified at Sunbird Hill (and we challenge all visitors to add to our bird list!) We know that NatureUganda members will definitely add many more ticks to our list. We are proud winners of the 24 hour Big Birding Day four years in a row (in the category Outside Protected Areas / Private Site).
Calls from wild chimpanzees are regularly heard, especially at night and early in the morning when chimps call out to each other from their night nests (making ‘contact calls’ as they are known in the primatological world). These primates are often seen when the fig tree at the end of our garden is laden with fruit; half of the tree’s canopy is in Kibale Forest National Park. Often elephants can be heard breaking trees during their nightly forages whilst the distinct calls of the Verreauxâs Eagle-Owl and Black-shouldered Nightjar reveal their identity.
Activities at Sunbird Hill
The Sunbird Hill Experience: explore our nature trails on the edge of Kibale Forest
The Birders Lounge
The Birders Lounge is a large thatched bird-themed shelter that houses our growing reference library and covers topics including: ornithology, mammalogy, primatology, entomology, herpetology, and botany, as well as ecology, conservation and African travel. Comfortable chairs, desks and work benches are surrounded by Ugandan natural history paraphernalia. The garden around the Birders Lounge is full of native and naturalised flowering plants carefully selected to nurture a diversity of birds and butterflies â perfect for the armchair nature enthusiast (and those of you with heavy photographic equipment!) Our bird baths, bird hide, butterfly mud puddle and pond just keep pushing our species lists up!
Paths wind through the 40 acres of land that borders Kibale Forest taking you through forest edge, woodland, bushland, grassland, farmland, wetland, and riverine habitats. (Pre-booked) visitors are invited to follow the nature trails with one of our expert naturalist site guides.
Sunbird Hill was set up to support the local NGO In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. Our concept is that national and international experts train our Sunbird Hill team. Our team pass this learning onto the youth of our Village Bird Clubs. Wildlife identification and information sharing inspire conservation.
In the Shadow of Chimpanzees has created a number of initiatives on the section of Sunbird Hill land that is dedicated to community use. They include a butterfly house and gardens, medicinal plant garden, bee hives, elephant trench and village football pitch.
On the Sunbird Hill Experience, one of the highly knowledgeable naturalist site guides will point out and provide insightful information on birds, butterflies, moths and plants as well as the occasional primate, reptile and amphibian sighting. What cannot be identified during the walk is photographed and identified at Sunbird Hillâs extensive reference library back at the Birders Lounge.
Guess who are staying overnight at Sunbird Hill Nature Monitoring & Rewilding Site are welcome to join nocturnal nature adventures with the team, as well as a nature walk the following morning before heading back to the Birders Lounge for refreshments, consultation with the reference books and documentation of our findings. As the birds quieten down, the birding morphs into butterflying, an interest that has been growing rapidly among our naturalist site guides.
Recommended activities within a few minutes of Sunbird Hill
We live in a truly Ugandan village environment so if you would like to see more of the rural village of Kyabakwerere, a member of our staff will be happy to escort you.
Chimpanzee Tracking (Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park), Swamp Walk in Bigodi (managed by KAFRED, the original and best provider) and Tooro Cultural Museum (Bigodi) are less than 10 minutes drive from Sunbird Hill.
Accommodation at Sunbird Hill
Eat in or out at Sunbird Hill
The Treehouse and three elevated cottages are available on a ‘bed only’ basis. There is a well-equipped Camp Kitchen available for your use.
Alternatively, Kiconcos Kitchen can provide simple meals when booked in advance at 30,000 UGX per lunch and 35,000 UGX per dinner per person. A special breakfast can be prepared by our homeschooled teenager Dillon for 25,000 UGX.
How much does it cost to visit Sunbird Hill?
The elevated cottages are based on two adults sharing. Add $20 per extra person (each elevated cottage has one double and two single beds). (The construction of the cottage makes it unsuitable for little children).Â
The Treehouse – everyone’s childhood dream! – is cosy and self-contained with one double bed and is based on 2 people sharing.
Rates include accommodation, access to the Birders Lounge for armchair birding, use of the reference library and bird hide and a walk with our expert naturalist site guides.
The Sunbird Hill Experience fees include tea and coffee and nibbles at the Birders Lounge. Cold beers, sodas, local gin tots and snacks are available at extra cost.
Please note: access to the nature trails is strictly only available to visitors who are accompanied by our site guides and who have booked and paid in advance. Be aware that you are not allowed to enter Kibale National Park from Sunbird Hill.
Discounts are available to members of NatureUganda, NatureKenya, East African Natural History Society, Explorersâ Club, Lepidoptera Club of Africa & African Bird Club. (Proof of membership required). “We want you naturalists here!” Says Julia.
Directions. How to get to Sunbird Hill
Sunbird Hill is 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park and is 3.5 km from Bigodi off the Fort Portal-Kamwenge Road.
Keep up to date with Sunbird Hill via their Facebook page or WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 to make an enquiry. Booking in advance is essential.
Diary of a Muzungu adds:
Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine. If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Sunbird Hill isn’t run as a lodge so isn’t for your mainstream tourist. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from the forest. It’s magical! In fact, it is the biggest inspiration behind the East Africa Travel Podcast. (And if you’re serious about birding then you can’t miss a trip to this lovely corner of western Uganda).
The day my suitcase got upgraded to business class
My favourite route from Entebbe to London: via Istanbul with Turkish Airlines
My hands were full. With one hand I pulled my suitcase on wheels; in the other I was carrying – and trying to quickly drink – a hot cup of coffee before boarding my early morning flight to Istanbul.
A member of Turkish Airlines staff smiled at me and grabbed hold of my trolley to help me walk down to the plane. She introduced herself as Kesvar. “You’re the nicest person Iâve met all day,” I said, relieved to be past Heathrow’s hard-nosed, sarcastic security personnel.
“I believe in karma,” she said. “I always help pregnant ladies and old people.” (Which category did she think I fell into – I had to wonder!)
A special thank you to the lovely Kesvar, a member of the Turkish Airlines ground crew at Heathrow Airport
My new friend Kesvar and I chatted all the way down to the plane. We talked about Istanbul, my next stop. “You must go and eat fish and bread next to the Bosphorus,” she insisted. We talked about fabulous Turkish food. We agreed how easy it is to get into Istanbul city centre from the airport. It’s cheap too! Istanbul has made sure that a short stopover in the megapolis is as easy as possible. Talking to Kesvar was like being welcomed to Istanbul and I hadn’t even left London!
Marvel at Istanbul’s incredible architecture on a boat ride along the Bosphorus. The journey takes you through hundreds of years of history
By the time my little suitcase and I boarded the plane, I was one of the last. Everywhere I looked, the overhead lockers appeared full. There was no room in the locker above my seat so I wandered up and down the aisle looking for a little space. There was none in economy.
I managed to get the attention of one of the airhostesses who invited me to follow her into business class. We giggled as we shuffled the other bags around so we could wedge my lucky little suitcase into a corner of one of the business class lockers. It was quite a workout!
Finally in my seat, I settled down to watch the quirkiest airline safety video. I’ve watched these videos so times that I tend to switch off when they start. The Turkish Airlines video grabbed my attention though. Even though it was played in Turkish to start with (then later in English), I couldn’t help but be drawn in by the clever graphics. Meet internet sensation Zack King!
This is Zack King. The off-the-wall style of the Turkish Airways in-flight safety video was great viewing – I loved watching it (twice!)
It’s a brilliantly done piece with animation and subtitles throughout. My sister Sarah is deaf. I know how left out she feels when other airlines don’t provide subtitles on in-flight entertainment. The Turkish Airlines safety video even has an interpretive signer. Sarah would love it!
I always enjoy Turkish Airlines’ meals and they were as good as ever: a tasty salad, a pasta dish and chocolate dessert.
Suleymaniye Mosque. Diary of a Muzungu visits Istanbul on a stopover between London and Entebbe
Breathtaking! An interior view of Hagia Sophia / Aya Sofya is a highlight of an Istanbul city tour
Although I had planned three days in Istanbul, unfortunately commitments in Entebbe meant I could not delay as planned. Nonetheless, my short stopover at Ataturk Airport in Istanbul allowed me time to sample some delicious honey-flavoured baklava and a cold Efes beer and stock up on boxes of Turkish Delight for friends in Kampala. Two hours free Wi-Fi gave me plenty of time for me to catch up with everyone.
Drink a Turkish Efes beer in Istanbul! Or better still, take a few days and explore the city, en route between London and Entebbe
There is so much more to see in Istanbul! Read my blogs about this superb and accessible city.
Crossing continents â the Muzunguâs Istanbul city tour and A day in ⌠Istanbul.
Breathtaking! An aerial view of Istanbul at night
Travel tips
- – Since my flight departed early, I slept overnight in a futuristic pod at Yotel in Terminal Four. Turkish Airlines depart from Terminal Two. It took five minutes to reach the lower ground floor and catch the Heathrow Express train which runs free of charge between the terminals and arrives every 15 minutes. The journey between terminals four and two takes five minutes. Once inside Terminal Two, there is a five-minute walk (with travelators) to the departures area.
- – I had checked in online. At departures, all I had to do was scan my passport at the booth, input the number of hold bags and the machine printed out my luggage tags and boarding pass. It could not have been easier. On this flight I had two 20 kg bags (thank you very much) + 8 kg allowance for cabin baggage. I always plastic wrap my bags (ÂŁ12.50 each at Heathrow). Having a light canvas holdall means the weight allowance goes on the contents of the bag, not the bag itself. The bag drop next to check-in was quick. All I had to do was show my boarding pass.
- – Before you pass through security at Heathrow Airport, double check for small amounts of liquids hidden in hand luggage. I left a tube of toothpaste in my carry-on bag so security insisted on going through the whole bag with a fine toothcomb.
- – If you are in a rush, avoid standing in line behind people with kids and a pushchair. Every single part of the pushchair has to be scanned. The poor mother of the family in front of me was totally unprepared for this – she had turned up at the airport with bags full of liquids and creams for the baby. Each liquid had to be tested individually.
- – Don’t get on the plane last if you have a suitcase to stow in the cabin – learn by my mistakes!
My flights from London via Istanbul and onto Entebbe went without a hitch. Air travel isn’t always so smooth – you might get a giggle out of these two air travel stories:
