How to get around #Kampala (when you don’t have a helicopter)
How to travel around Kampala – Walk? Cycle? Boda boda? Drive? Taxis or special hire? Matatu? Bus or coach? Train? Helicopter?!
New expats frequently ask me where the best places are to live in Kampala and I always recommend trying to live the same side of town as you work. Scroll down and you’ll understand why. Kampala does not have a public transport system as such (it’s all privately owned) but there are many different ways of travelling to and around the city. Here’s the muzungu’s introduction to the different types of transport and a few personal recommendations.
If you’re a regular reader of my blog, you’ll know I’m always up for a new adventure so I’ve tried all the different methods of transport across Kampala.
⦁ Walking
⦁ Cycling
⦁ Boda boda motorbikes
⦁ Cars
⦁ Taxis and special hires
⦁ Matatus
⦁ Buses and coaches
⦁ Train
⦁ Helicopter!
Walking in Kampala
If you’re within walking distance of where you work, then lucky you! My organisation office was in the spare room of my home for my first few years in Uganda and I was saved the hassle of fighting through Kampala’s traffic. I had no idea how lucky I was!
Walking my dogs through the back roads of Bukasa and Muyenga were some of my happiest times in Uganda. Here’s a favourite walk of ours. Once you’re in town however, walking is an altogether different matter.
It’s only in the centre of town and around the central business district (CBD) that you will find decent pavements. In other parts of town, pavements may suddenly end without warning (if they exist). Drainage covers may be there today and gone tomorrow so always tread carefully. If you have kids, forget bringing the buggy to Kampala. You won’t be able to push it very far.
Cycling in Kampala
I know very few expats who dare to cycle on Kampala’s crazy streets. I used to cycle when I lived in London but here we have little awareness of cyclists or their safety. You wouldn’t find me cycling around Kampala unless it is down by Lake Victoria or on the quiet hills of Kololo or Nakasero. Save your biking for weekends in Lake Mburo or Fort Portal. (Did you know there is an annual mountain bike tour in Karamoja?)
Boda boda motorbikes
These are undoubtedly the quickest way of getting from A to B and the city couldn’t function without them. Boda boda drivers are our best friends, our Mr Fix It, frequently our saviours – just choose with discretion. They can be a real menace too. Read my blog How to ride a boda boda.
If you take a boda boda, do yourself a favour and wear a helmet. Don’t just accept a lift from random guys driving past either. Get to know riders from your local boda boda stage or download one of the ‘ride hailing apps’ such as SafeBoda or Uber app in Kampala. Their boda riders are registered and (Usually but not always) bring you a high quality helmet to wear.
Driving a car in Kampala
Lots of people prefer the comfort and privacy of having their own cars. I bought my car from expat friends and enjoyed the independence of it for many years. What I didn’t enjoy were the many hours sweating in traffic jams at Jinja Road. Neither did I appreciate being pulled over by the traffic police for some minor offence they had just cooked up when they spotted a loan muzungu. (They pick on Ugandans too, I know!)
The weirdest occasion was one Christmas Eve when I was driving through the industrial area. The traffic policeman ahead of me motioned me to pull over. “What have I done?” I asked him innocently. He walked around the car.
“I’m pulling you over for having a faulty rear brake light” he said.
“How could you see that when you were standing in front of me?” I asked him.
“For us, we have special powers” came the reply.
Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a popular post by a former expat.
Taxis and special hires
This is where it gets confusing!
Private cars are called ‘specials’ or special hires.
When a British person like me thinks of a taxi, this is what I see:
![Black London taxi cab. Jimmy Barrett [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons](https://i0.wp.com/www.muzungubloguganda.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Black-London-taxi-cab.jpg?resize=512%2C383&ssl=1)
Matatus
In Kampala however, ask for a taxi (pronounced taxiiiiiii) and someone will point you to a matatu or minibus. The crowded old taxi park in downtown Kampala is an experience in itself! It can be pretty intense.
The 12 seater minibus taxis (generally white with turquoise ‘go faster’ stripes) are the cheapest way to get around but the routes can be annoying as you have to go into the centre of town to get out to the other side. People often walk a bit, take a matatu and then take the second one or jump on a boda boda for the last part of their journey.
Matatus are very cheap. There are no price lists, no receipts and no timetable. They have set prices but the conductor (who sits by the sliding door and takes your money) will frequently try and overcharge you if you’re a muzungu. It is inevitable but you will quickly get to know what’s a fair price. Most routes charge 1,000 shillings (equivalent to 20 British pence or 30 US cents). If you’re not sure how much to pay, fellow passengers will usually help you out (and scold the conductor at the same time!) Travel with loose change or small notes if you’re using a taxiiiiiii in Kampala.
Matatus are good if you are on a tight budget, have a good book to read and can go to work very early (or arrive home very late). Play with your expensive phone at your peril. Thieves are known to put their hand through taxi windows and snatch phones when you’re stuck in traffic.
The downside with matatus is that they frequently get stuck in traffic, especially around the taxi park and Clock Tower roundabout. It’s not uncommon to sit for one or two hours without moving. Their drivers are often aggressive. Also, you have to be careful of your belongings on these crowded minibuses as there are lots of cunning pickpockets. One friend was relieved of her laptop in a matatu. She had no idea she was being robbed until she got out of the taxi and opened her bag to see her laptop had been replaced by bricks!
If you are using a taxi upcountry, expect to fit a lot more than 12 people in!
Note: Uganda’s matatus are twelve-seater minibuses, slightly different from Nairobi’s matatus which are buses, coaches or ‘coasters’ (slightly smaller than a bus).
Buses and coaches
Within Kampala city, Pioneer are the only bus company that I know of. Their buses are new, well-maintained with fixed routes, fixed prices and even tickets! Oh how I wish the city had more of these.
MAY 2022 I saw this same photo of me circulating on WhatsApp after a fatal bus crash. This driver was at the wheel and perished 😪😪😪 so did many others
If you want to travel outside Kampala, upcountry or across one of Uganda’s borders, buses are safer than matatus, which have a particularly poor safety record. Bus companies I have used regularly are Mash, Link and Jaguar Executive Coaches. Other people also recommend Oxygen, Coast and Modern Coaches. After the latest crash I am not recommending any of them! (But the reality is we don’t always have a choice).
Train
If you are lucky enough to live in Kireka or Namanve, you can even get the train into town! The downside is that the service is infrequent although it does have a daily timetable and it’s very cheap. Click on the image to read more about Kampala’s commuter train service.
I simply love trains. Read about my train travels across East Africa:
- On the right track – my first Ugandan train ride
- More ‘lunatic’ than express – an epic adventure on Kenya’s (in)famous train to Mombasa
- Of romance and railways. A guide to booking Kenya’s Standard Gauge Railway train and a comparison between the train journey and the bus between Nairobi and Mombasa.
Helicopter
I once crossed Jinja Road by helicopter!
When I was a volunteer, I got to know the pilot of the helicopter stationed at International Hospital Muyenga. I begged him for a ride (not thinking there was any likelihood of it).
One morning he called me. “Can you get to the hospital in fifteen minutes? I have to transfer the helicopter to the grounds of the Serena Hotel to pick up a private client. You can hop in if you want to?”
God I was excited – but no sooner had the helicopter lifted off the ground than we were landing again… and that sums up my travel experiences in helicopter!
What’s the muzungu’s preferred way of travelling around Kampala?
These days I’m a regular user of one of the ride hailing apps. I use them regularly when I’m in Kampala – but the cars all cost more than they used to.
Although Uber and Bolt aren’t Kampala’s only ride hailing app, they do offer the most flexibility and for tourists and new expats, they are recognised brands that you may already have on your phone. The system works exactly the same way as it does ‘back home’ but cash is always preferred by drivers. Few of them accept credit cards. Very few shops in Uganda accept credit cards – we just aren’t there yet.
What’s great about Uber’s service in Kampala is that they have both cars and boda bodas. However, SafeBoda has 100s of bodas now and Uber doesn’t.
What are your tips for travelling around Kampala? If you’re coming to live in Uganda for the first time, read Uganda for beginners – an introduction for new expats.
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Brief Encounter. Of romance & railways – Kenya’s SGR train ride [UPDATED]
Brief Encounter – the muzungu’s complete guide to Kenya’s Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) ‘Madaraka Express’ train between Nairobi and Mombasa
Ah, the romance of train journeys!
My love affair with trains started as a child when my Mum and I would take an occasional train journey to London. As the train pulled into the stately St Pancras station, passengers would pull down windows to open the heavy doors and jump from the still-moving train onto the platform. I can still feel the reverberations of those doors slamming shut behind them. I can smell the diesel. I can hear the whistle as the train gets ready to depart.
European culture resonates with train imagery: grand architecture, long cross-country journeys, meetings with strangers. The 1945 film Brief Encounter is centred around a railway station and is regarded – in Britain at least – as one of the best romantic films of all time. It’s a personal favourite, for its unspoken desires, and the dramatic tension between the two lead actors. The station’s night time setting heightens the drama of this clandestine affair.
My love for the railways was rekindled in East Africa when my friend Amy and I took the Rift Valley Railways commuter train across Kampala.
However, the romance was to be short-lived: the first stop was the abattoir. The Rift Valley Railways train service stopped, started, stopped and in 2024 has resumed once more!
Nonetheless, the short 20 minute journey fired my imagination and had me researching the Uganda Railway and its history. This led to a far bigger adventure: traveling from Nairobi to Mombasa on the infamous Lunatic Express – a journey many had warned me against taking. It took us an incredible 23 hours… in a heatwave no less.
Just last week, we finally got our act together to board the new Standard Gauge Railway train, but a few questions remained:
- Would the train leave on time?
- Would it be as exciting as our first rail journey between Kenya’s two biggest cities?
- Would it have the same sense of history?
- Would I be able to buy a cold Tusker on the train?
- Would there be romance… ?
This is the muzungu’s guide to taking Kenya’s Standard Gauge Railway train between Nairobi and Mombasa, based on my personal experience of the original Lunatic Express, the bus and the SGR train. Branded ‘the Madaraka Express’, I compare the SGR train ride with the bus, I describe Mombasa and Nairobi Standard Gauge Railway stations and tell you what it is like on the train. I share tips for using the SGR train, the booking process and how to pay by M-Pesa. I also suggest a few ways the service could be developed for an even better traveling experience.
The SGR train is deemed to be a great success since its inaugural trip in May 2017. At 5,000 Kenya shillings (KES), even first class tickets represent good value for money (and are usually cheaper than flying). We opt for second class tickets, which are cheaper than bus tickets, at just 1500 KES each. (Prices updated June 2024). We take the bus from Nairobi to Mombasa and the SGR train for the return leg of the trip.
Here’s our story of the bus and the SGR train, and the pros and cons of each mode of transport. In summary, the train wins but the advantages are not clear cut. Here’s why:
As befits railway infrastructure grands projets, Mombasa Standard Gauge Railway station is an impressive structure. The building has been designed well to accommodate the flow of passengers. It is light and spacious.
There is high security at Mombasa SGR station. It starts with the (very inconvenient) stop before the bridge above the station. Julia persuades the police to let our tuk tuk full of baggage drive across the bridge and down the ramp, but not all train passengers are as fortunate. Many have to walk. (2018).
In a temporary-looking structure in front of the station, we dutifully place our bags in front of the sniffer dogs. I know I’m going to be asked to delete the photo, but I still risk taking one!
Next our bags are scanned and our bodies frisked. We go through this process a second time as we enter the main building. Julia is quizzed about her penknife and a glass bottle. At the entry to the main building are two security information boards but, by the time you’ve reached the SGR station, it’s too late to act on much of the information displayed. (An advisory email or SMS would be useful).
We eye up the futuristic-looking glass elevator.
“Are you first-class people?” Asks the security operative. “Yes! Of course we are.” (It’s a shame we only have second-class tickets though!) The elevator goes to the first class VIP waiting area only, on the floor above ours. We take the escalator, giggling.
Security is tight. Staff don’t like us taking photos and I am told off, more than once!
In the ticketing area, a large board shows the availability of trains for the coming eight days. It appears that first-class tickets are sold out quickly: all first-class tickets have been sold out for three days, and very nearly sold out for another three days. Afternoon trains are the most popular.
“Please go to the counter for real-time updates” says the sign but why not use the public address system to make life easier? It doesn’t make sense to ask several hundred people to queue at the counter for updates.
There are several toilets in the building, although not enough. Our floor has a disabled toilet, and three other stalls. We find them to be clean. Ladies, there is even toilet paper!
In 2024, there is a vending machine for drinks, crisps and sweets on the ground floor and a cafe upstairs (in stark contrast to 2018 when we were gobsmacked that there was nowhere to buy anything to eat or drink at Mombasa SGR station, not even water. Neither did we see a drinking water fountain. In 2018 I wrote: what happens if you are taken ill? It would take you between 15 and 30 minutes to exit the station, walk up the long ramp, cross the bridge, buy water, come back the same way – and then pass back through three lots of security. If you’re ill, disabled or with children, you’re going to struggle. Plan ahead.
The station has hundreds of seats, but more are needed. Is there Wi-Fi? (There still wasn’t any on the train in June 2024). You can’t smoke in the station.
There is a prerecorded announcement to advise when it is time to board the train. The lady has a Chinese accent. We leave exactly on time: 3.00 in the afternoon. Staff are smartly dressed in uniform and stand on the platform, making sure we board on time. They watch the train pull away from the platform.
What’s it like on the SGR train?
The train feels fresh and cool as we enter. It’s very clean. First impressions are good.
There is a small table between each set of seats. I feel like we’re travelling in a caravan.
Curtains allow you to block out the afternoon sun. Next to the window seat is a small hook for a coat or handbag.
Although we have three seats – 98, 99 and 100 – only two of the seats are next to each other. The seat numbering system is confusing.
A man and a woman push a snack trolley down the aisle. I fancy something to eat. Tea is 100 Kenya shillings, Tusker is 250 bob and a beef or chicken sandwich is 350. Sandwiches are fresh and tasty (although I’m not a big fan of sweet white bread). (2018 prices).
For the first hour of our journey, the train is quiet. After a while everyone starts chatting. That’s the upside of there being no WiFi.
To kill time, Julia and I tuck into some baobab fruit. Our tongues turn bright red with the food colouring. The baobab fruits looks as inviting as a fresh raspberry but are moss-covered stones that require several minutes hard sucking to release the sweetness.
Ten minutes after Voi station, Dianah calls out “Charlotte, you have missed elephants!” I’m sitting on the wrong side of the train to watch Tsavo’s wildlife. Our seats look onto the ‘transport corridor’ – the old railway line and the road, and that’s fine for now: I’m focused on comparing road and rail (the elephants can wait!)
There are regular messages to throw litter in the bin. The toilets are clean throughout the journey. Three quarters of an hour before Nairobi, a member of staff picks up the remaining rubbish. They even mop the floor!
We arrive at Nairobi SGR station five hours later, at exactly the time expected.
Nairobi SGR station is a state-of-the-art piece of infrastructure. It’s easy to navigate and well lit. We cross over the railway line to take the 50 bob shuttle train to Nairobi’s original railway station. SGR staff tell us it will take 20 minutes. It takes us 50 minutes. From the station, we take an Uber. It’s been a long day for us: we left Watamu in a tuk tuk at 7.30 am. Next we boarded a matatu from Malindi to Mombasa before taking another tuk tuk from the centre of Mombasa to the SGR station.
Photos of the SGR stations and route: the muzungu’s guide to the SGR ‘Madaraka Express’ train between Nairobi and Mombasa
Advantages of taking the Standard Gauge Railway train
The SGR train journey time is five hours.
The train is safe – no dodgy overtaking of container lorries.
The journey is smooth – no potholes. (No sports bra needed! Unlike traveling in a bumpy tuk tuk!)
The train is more spacious. Tall friends may prefer first-class for its legroom but second-class is fine as you can easily stand up and stretch your legs by walking between the carriages.
Travelling by train is more secure than the bus. There are numerous security checks before you get on the train – cameras in the station? The train doesn’t have seat belts (neither does it have to overtake into oncoming traffic).
The train has toilets.
The train has air-conditioning. It is dust-free travel – even in the dry season.
You can drink alcohol on the train, but you can’t carry your own drinks. Bags are searched at stations and alcohol is confiscated. You can buy alcohol and other drinks and snacks on the train. If you’re in first class, you have access to a dining car. (2024)
It’s easier to watch birds and wildlife from the train!
Each train carriage has a dedicated member of staff. Our lady was very friendly.
The train is cheaper than the bus, if you buy a second class ticket. Ticket prices: 1500 Kenya shillings ($) standard class. First class tickets are 5,000 KES ($) each. (Updated 2024). (Discounts available for children). However, the train journey price works out substantially higher than the ticket cost alone since you have to factor in travel to and from the SGR stations (in remote locations outside the city centres).
Advantages of taking the bus
Some of us enjoy slow travel. The bus journey time is eight hours.
If you take the bus, you can get from the centre of Nairobi to the centre of Mombasa without having to change vehicle. If you have lots of bags, are travelling with children, or have mobility issues, you might prefer to simply take the bus.
You only have to buy one ticket for the whole journey, meaning less hassle. If you take the SGR, you have to allow extra time and additional cash for the connections to the stations.
Some buses have air-conditioning – but does it always work? The same applies to the WiFi.
We enjoy our brief lunch stops and the chance to try the local food en route. By contrast, SGR food is boring in its bland international style.
The bus has a few brief comfort break stops – a chance for smokers to step out.
You can choose your seats when you make your booking.
Ticket prices: MASH have seats ranging from 1,000 – 2,500 Kenya shillings ($10 to $25) according to the seat type. (2018)
Journey price = same as the ticket price. No extra costs.
Travel tips: how to book the SGR train AKA the Madaraka Express
The enquiry and booking process – online or in person
If you’re going straight to the last stop, choose the express train. The express journey time is 4 hours and 43 minutes. This runs in the afternoon, in both directions. The morning inter-county trains stop at Athi River, Emali, Kibwezi, Mtito Andei, Voi, Minsenyi, Mariakani. The inter-county journey time is 5 hours and 58 minutes.
Book early to avoid disappointment. Learn from our mistake! (We spent 25 hours on buses from Kampala to Mombasa – with just a half hour break between journeys – because we tried to book two days before departure when the train was already sold out).
You can book in person at the SGR stations but they are a long way out of town. Pay by cash in Kenya shillings or use MPesa. I have a reliable contact who can make all your train and bus reservations and payments.
Use your phone. Pay by MPesa (you’ll need a Safaricom Kenya SIM card to do this). If you want to book the SGR from outside Kenya, ask a tour operator to book your tickets or contact me.
“It ought to be plain how little you gain
by getting excited and vexed.
You’ll always be late for the previous train,
and always on time for the next.”
― Piet Hein
Click here to see the rates for the SGR train – or Madaraka Express – on the Kenya Railways web site. The web site also details fares between intermediate stations along the route.
If you want to choose your seats (and sit next to a friend or be by the window facing in the right direction), it may be better to book in person at a train station.
To make a booking or enquiry call + 254 (0)709 388888 / 0709907000 / 0728603581/2 or email info@krc.co.ke
Be at the station one hour before departure. There are multiple security checks and print your tickets at the station.
You can book up to 30 days in advance. (2018)
The Standard Gauge Railway station in Mombasa is in Miritini
To avoid Mombasa traffic, get on at the Mariakani stop. To do this you will need to get the slow (morning) train.
Three of us paid 700 KES for a tuk tuk from Fort Jesus to the SGR station. We had been quoted 1,500 KES for a car. (2018)
Trains depart from Mombasa twice daily. The morning inter-county train departs at 8.20 AM (arrives Nairobi 2.18 PM) and the afternoon express train leaves at 3.15 PM (and arrives Nairobi 8.14 PM). Tickets are on sale between 5:40 AM and 4 PM. Tickets can be purchased up to ten minutes before departure. (2018 info)
At Mombasa SGR there is a wide range of taxis, buses and matatus heading to Mombasa city and elsewhere. No need to book.
The Standard Gauge Railway station in Nairobi is in Syokimau, past the airport
Trains depart from Nairobi twice daily. The morning inter-county train departs at 8.20 AM (arrives Mombasa 2.18 PM) and the afternoon express train leaves at 2.35 PM (and arrives Nairobi 7.18 PM). 2018 info.
To get from central Nairobi to the SGR station, board the commuter train at Nairobi railway station. The fare is 50 bob (KES) between the two stations.
Would I recommend taking the SGR train?
I commend SGR for operating a reliable and affordable service. The infrastructure is excellent and the booking process easy but there needs to be more attention to the overall experience. Efficiency and cleanliness are important but the stations need water fountains, catering outlets and shops. (Not only is this useful for the passenger but it represents additional revenue streams for SGR – surely a no-brainer). SGR need to make Wi-Fi available at stations and on the train.
I had to hotspot from my Ugandan phone to order our cab.
“If I ran the railway”… I’d display information about the SGR project and its construction. Where is the history of the Uganda Railway? Where is the tourist information? Why not play some background music? Part of the travel experience is buying and reading a newspaper, finding something tasty to eat, learning something about the route and the destination, sharing photos and updates with friends online. People don’t only judge things by cost.
But was it exciting?
Did it live up to the hype?
Was there romance?
The boring issues of cost and logistics to one side, did the muzungu find the experience to be exciting?
Well yes, the novelty of the new experience made it worth the wait.
I can’t say the journey was romantic – unlike the Lunatic Express was. Everything about the SGR is too shiny and corporate.
For romantic interest, next time maybe I’ll just take a good book (or download a copy of Brief Encounter and daydream I’m there, underneath the clock, waiting …)
Have you been on the SGR train yet? How was it for you? Do tell.
If you enjoy train travel stories, my Lunatic Express story was an epic adventure.
For more views about the SGR / Madaraka Express, read East Africa tourism expert Prof. Dr. Wolfgang Thome’s blog ATC News.
We can’t wait for the day when we can catch the SGR train from Kampala to the coast for the week-end!
Kenya
The Muzungu’s top 10 reasons for visiting #MagicalKenya
The divine Karen Blixen Camp seen from the river. In the Mara North Conservancy, the Maasai work with lodge owners to conserve wildlife
I LOVE Kenya – for a hundred – THOUSAND – reasons – but let’s just start with ten …
- Kenya is the home of the classic African safari and the Big Five
- Kenya is a vast country of contrasting landscapes
- Kenya has 48 national parks, reserves, marine parks and private sanctuaries
- Kenyans are world-class leaders in wildlife conservation. Read Why Kenya’s ivory burning makes sense #worthmorealive
- Kenya has 400 mammal species and 1057 bird species, the most of any country in Africa
- The Great Migration passes through Kenya’s Maasai Mara
- Kenyans are proud of their 42 tribal cultures, who play a big and colourful part in welcoming tourists
- Kenya offers an unmatched range of beach holidays, think: sunbathing, snorkelling, scuba diving, SUP Stand Up Paddling, kitesurfing, sailing
- English is widely spoken throughout Kenya. Swahili is the official language
- The East Africa Tourist Visa makes travel to Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda even better value
Famous as the birthplace of the African Safari, you can never tire of Kenya’s limitless attractions for visitors and incredible diversity of landscapes and natural diversity.
Giraffes on the horizon. Photo Riz Jiwa rizjiwa@gmail.com
Kenya’s world-famous wildlife is exceptional by any standards, and is protected in 48 national parks, reserves, marine parks and private sanctuaries, although many say that it is outside Africa’s national parks that the majority of wildlife still resides (meaning those animals need greater protection too).
The ‘Sleeping Warrior’ AKA Lord Delamere’s Nose is a stunning backdrop to views of flamingos from Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp
Have you visited a conservancy? I loved my three days at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp in the Soysambu Conservancy in Kenya’s Rift Valley.
Read 10 fascinating flamingo facts (I bet you didn’t know). Lake Elmenteita is a birder’s paradise! (And a superb place for horse riding; game drives to see eland, Rothschild’s giraffes and leopard; the lakeshore breakfast among flamingos and pelicans was unforgettable too!)
Hot air ballooning safari: the sun rises over the Maasai Mara, Kenya – the GoPro view! from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.
Kenya offers visitors an infinite array of authentic wildlife experiences, on land, on the ocean, and even from the air!
Great Migration, Maasai Mara, Hot Air Balloon Safaris. Photo Riz Jiwa rizjiwa@gmail.com
Kenya is most famous for the million and a half Wildebeest (and other four-legged friends) that, twice yearly, traverse the Maasai Mara in the epic migration.
Cheetah with three cubs, Maasai Mara safari, Kenya from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.
Lesser-known ecotourism attractions include the Marine Big Five: sea turtles, dolphins, whales, whale sharks and billfish.
Hawksbill Turtles. Photo Turtle Bay Dive Centre Watamu
Did you know you can now experience the Twin Migration – uniquely – in Kenya? Watch the migration in the Mara and watch whales migrate along the coast too! Read all about whale watching trips from Watamu.
The highest point is the snowcapped peak of Mount Kenya, the intersection of the Equator and the Great Rift Valley.
Kenya is a geographer and naturalist’s dream: a country the size of France and Spain combined, featuring mountains, extinct volcanoes, soda lakes, Equatorial rainforest, alpine glaciers and arid deserts.
On the Indian Ocean coast, the white sandy beaches of Watamu, Malindi, Lamu and Mombasa, and the Swahili coast’s blend of African and Arab cultures, add an extra dimension to this must-visit country. Read 17 must-try experiences in Mombasa. 
The snorkeling in Watamu is out of this world. Diary of a Muzungu on the beach at Watamu, Kenya
TripAdvisor Winner 2015: Medina Palms’ clients voted this resort the BEST of all hotels, lodges and establishments across the whole country. A series of infinity pools lead down to the white powder sand beach
With eight swimming pools cascading down to the Indian Ocean, Swahili Beach Resort in Diani is high on my list of places for ‘a proper holiday.’🌴🍹🌊🥥👙⛱️
Read Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
The 5 star Swahili Beach Resort in Diani – SWOON! Click on the image above to read my blog and view a gallery of this resort’s amazing architecture and interiors
A technicolor start to our morning’s sightseeing in Mombasa. Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple, Haile Selassie Avenue
When it comes to food, I can’t think of any better combination than the Kenyan coast combination of fresh seafood and spices: crab samosas, fresh fish and lobster, with a Swahili twist (washed down with an ice-cold Tusker beer, of course!)
Enjoying a cold Tusker at the Bomas, Nairobi
Kenya is famous for her colourful human culture, notably the Maasai, the Samburu and the Turkana, just three of the country’s 42 tribes.
Kenya’s rich heritage can be traced back a staggering 4.5 million years. Didn’t we all come from Africa once?
Walking to school through Uhuru Gardens, Central Business District, Nairobi. In November, the Jacaranda trees are in full and glorious blossom
I love Nairobi more every visit. The streets are becoming more familiar to me now: I LOVE this incredible video!
Nairobi- A Timelapse Portrait from xixo collective on Vimeo.
The capital Nairobi is the only African city with a national park in its centre. Even if you don’t get a chance to leave the city perimeter, it’s still possible to go on a game drive if you are visiting Nairobi. Read my blog all about Nairobi National Park: the muzungu’s first city safari!
If you’ve seen the incongruous-looking photographs of wildlife in front of a modern urban background, then you may know I’m talking about Nairobi National Park (which is actually IN Kenya’s capital, making it very accessible for weekend or business visitors).
I recently stayed at the 5 star Nairobi Serena Hotel, conveniently situated on a quiet and leafy corner of the Central Business District. The hotel has been totally refurbished and offers a complimentary Architectural, Cultural and Conservation to guests. The creativity is quite mind-blowing! If you’re a fan of African history and culture, the Murumbi Gallery and Heritage House, you must read How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel.
Admire the fabulous wood carvings in the Bambara Lounge, Nairobi Serena Hotel on the Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour
This delicate brass box derives from West Africa. Isn’t it gorgeous? Click on the images to see more artefacts you can see on the Nairobi Serena’s Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour
Did you know…? The East Africa Tourist Visa makes it easier and cheaper to combine a trip to Kenya with a visit to Uganda and Rwanda. Read the Muzungu’s definitive guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa here.
I’ve only just skimmed the surface of what Kenya has to offer as a tourism destination but the country has blown my tiny little mind, I can tell you!
View from the Lunatic Express train from Nairobi to Mombasa
If you are travelling between Kampala to Nairobi, you might enjoy reading my cross-border bus journeys.
Travelling between Nairobi and the Mombasa coast? The photo above was taken on the Lunatic Express train – a real highlight of my travels across East Africa. It’s been replaced by the rather less romantic – but infinitely more reliable – Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) train. Read my detailed comparison between the bus and the train journey between Nairobi and Mombasa here in Brief encounter – of romance and railways.
Keep reading Diary of a Muzungu for more travel tips and adventures from across Kenya and East Africa.
More ‘lunatic’ than ‘express’ – a train ride through history
Have you travelled on the Lunatic Express?
This is the muzungu’s personal account of the ‘Lunatic Express’ train journey from Nairobi to Mombasa, Kenya, an epic adventure bar none! Read all about East Africa’s railway history, Tsavo’s man-eating lions and the muzungu’s train survival tips.
- – No. of KM journey: 530
- – No. of Kenyan shillings for 2nd class ticket: 3,385 (USD 33)
- – No. of hours delay leaving Nairobi Railway Station: 10
- – No. of hours on train journey (forecast): 13
- – No. of hours on train journey (actual): 23
- – No. of degrees Celsius on the train: 40+
- – No. of beers consumed: not enough
- – No. of National Parks traversed for free: 2
- – No. of elephants seen on Tsavo safari: 3
The name should have been warning enough… yet, behind every travel nightmare is the makings of a good travel blog. (Oh, the situations the muzungu gets herself into in the search for a good story!)
We travelled in the light of the Full Moon or should I say: we travelled under the effects of the full moon. Lunacy indeed!
What made the Muzungu want to embark on this notorious train journey?
My ride on Kampala’s passenger train service made me want to discover more of East Africa’s rail network, and its history.
Daydreaming about my next train adventure gave me a reason to plan a trip to Kenya’s coast: the first leg from Kampala to Nairobi was by bus (although once upon a time, you could do the whole trip by train). I knew that one day passengers would again be able to cross East Africa by train but before that happened, I wanted to experience the original Lunatic Express train – so I could compare it with the new one. Of romance and railways is my follow-up story, written 2018, and compares the Lunatic Express, the bus and the Standard Gauge Railway! But first…
What is the Lunatic* Express?
Although the entire 660 mile (just over 1000 km) length of the Uganda Railway actually runs through Kenya – from Mombasa to Kisumu on the Kenyan shores of Lake Victoria – the railway derives its name from its final destination: Uganda. Sources states that the purpose of the railway was “to protect British colonial interests from the Germans.” The fact that the Uganda Railway opened up trade across Uganda and Kenya was simply a ‘by the way.’
Charles Miller came up with the term ‘Lunatic Express’ in his 1971 book The Lunatic Express: An Entertainment in Imperialism to describe the challenges – and calamities – of the Uganda Railway’s construction, notably:
- – 2,500 (of 32,000 workmen) died during construction, mostly from disease
- – 28 Indian “coolies” (‘workers’ to you and me) were killed by the man-eating lions of Tsavo
- – 135 African laborers were also killed by said Tsavo man-eaters. It’s interesting that 28 is generally the number of people recorded as killed by lions. However, according to Ugandans at Heart / ‘EKB’ Ekitibwa Kya Buganda “the Africans were considered not important enough for an accurate count or record to be kept.” The actual toll of all men killed by lions must therefore be 163+ /- [scroll down for more about those pesky pussy cats…]
- Very demanding terrain
- Lack of water / drought
- “Hostile natives” (hardly bloody surprising)
- Derailments and collisions
*A lunatic endeavour is something considered to be extremely foolish or eccentric. The word lunatic is derived from the Latin word luna, meaning moon. The Latin word lunaticus means “moon-struck” and a lunatic someone who is “affected with periodic insanity, dependent on the changes of the moon.”
How to book your tickets for the Lunatic Express
The start was very promising. The call to the booking office at Nairobi Railway Station confirmed that it would be cheaper for us to purchase tickets in Nairobi than to buy them in advance online. So far, so good …
Upon arrival at Nairobi Railway Station, the humourless security woman insisted I delete my photos of the front of the station. (Lord knows there must already be enough photos in circulation, what difference would mine make?)
The interior of Nairobi Railway Station is an exact replica of Kampala Railway Station, with all its original features in place. In Nairobi however, someone has tried to give the place a modern facelift, circling the century-old fittings with bright gaudy paint. Not a good look.
Generally, Nairobi Railway Station is in a shocking state of repair. (By contrast, the interiors and platforms of Kampala Railway Station remain in near perfect condition, having been closed to the public for 30 years).
We purchased our Lunatic Express tickets from the wonderfully helpful Evelyn and Elias. My friends opted for a two bunk first class compartment while I opted for second class. Our tickets cost 4,405 KES (approx 43 USD) first class and 3,385 KES (approx 33 USD) second class and included breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The train passes through 530 km (300 miles) of East Africa, from Kenya’s capital Nairobi to the Indian Ocean port of Mombasa. I was most looking forward to traversing Tsavo National Park (now split into East Tsavo and West Tsavo), most famous for the man-eating lions, as many unfortunates were to discover to their peril back in 1898.
The train was forecast to leave at 7 PM on Good Friday. As Evelyn took our booking, she asked for our phone numbers “for when (not if) there is a delay.” I didn’t think much about that; we just booked our tickets and went on our way.
The Lunatic Express: day of our departure
Keen to embark on my first train Safari, I decided to get to the railway station early – unusually for me: several hours early.
In the meantime, Evelyn called my friend Julia to advise of a delay. The train would not depart until 10 PM so we headed into town to kill time in a bar. Generous helpings of goat and ugali later, another phone call advised us: the Lunatic Express departure time was likely to be 11.30 pm or midnight. Needless to say, when we arrived at the station, there was no sign of the train. It had not arrived from Mombasa. A number of very annoyed bazungu tourists requested refunds.
Children were curled up asleep with their parents on hard wooden benches. In the sofa area – in total darkness, thanks to a power cut – a man at a tiny bar served people while holding a small torch. Inside the station was a retro lounge bar of a bygone era.
We were invited to board the train at 3 am. At 5 o’clock in the morning – 10 hours later than the advertised departure time – our train rumbled out of Nairobi Railway Station. The muzungu was curled up asleep in the top bunk of compartment B in coach 2326 by then.
I woke up on a moving train, crossing the savannah.
I had only slept four hours in two days but I was too excited to go back to sleep. What’s more, the compartment was quickly heating up (the weather in Nairobi had been roasting hot). I tried to pull down the window, but it refused to open more than a few inches.
A member of staff walked along the corridor outside my compartment and announced “breakfast will be ready soon.”
“Soon” turned out to be an hour or more later!
Our journey from Nairobi pushed us into a coastal heatwave. Rather than travel in the relative cool of the night, our late departure meant we traversed the 483 km in the heat of the day, our train absorbing every ray of the hot sun.
Kampala and Nairobi had been hotter than normal and I had been dreading the predicted heatwave at the Kenyan coast. However, after 23 hours in our mobile sauna, I felt thoroughly acclimatised!
“There really should be a swimming pool on the roof of the train,” Julia said.
“Don’t you think they should first switch on the ceiling fans, fix the air conditioning and make it possible for us to open the windows?!” I suggested.
Much like Nairobi Railway Station, the Lunatic Express train is in a state of total neglect. There were few locks on the toilet doors, none on compartments (except when inside) and just two power sockets per carriage.
Yet there were glimpses of the train’s former splendour. Although from the outside, the Lunatic Express is a non-descript modern train, the interior features wooden benches, some 1930s-style fittings, cup holders and other metal fittings engraved with Rft Valley Railway, faded old posters and the occasional piece of original silver tableware.
My favourite piece of tableware was the metal butter dish. I loved its air of faded opulence. Julia removed the lid to reveal a messy dollop of cheap Blue Band margarine. Humph!
Travel on the Lunatic Express is not a gourmet experience
These days, everything about the Lunatic Express is cheap (including the train tickets, if I’m honest). But like they say: “you get what you pay for” and our three meals were basic and not particularly appetising. Dinner was simply a second serving of lunch.
Cooked breakfast (eggs, sausages and baked beans) included cheap sliced white sugary bread (toasted one side only! To save time? To save money?) The weak-tasting coffee was of the instant variety (in Kenya? In one of the world’s major coffee producing countries?) But ignore that: I loved the way the waiters expertly poured our hot beverages from beautiful old tea and coffeepots, while the train rumbled along.
From the train windows, we watched the landscape change as we passed through open countryside, mile after mile, kilometre after kilometre.
We saw the occasional human: a young girl collecting firewood, a man tending a flock of goats and cows.
As we rattled through one of the numerous derelict railway stations and outposts, I observed a woman and baby watching us. People approached our slowly-moving train. A handful of children shouted at us for money.
A safari through Tsavo – and no park fees to pay!
A real draw for me was the chance to experience a train safari – and I was not disappointed.
Tsavo is Kenya’s largest national park and covers nearly 22,000 sq km. It is one of the world’s largest. The construction of the railway split the park into two: Tsavo East National Park and Tsavo West National Park.
Crossing Tsavo, beyond a new viaduct, everyone moved to one side of the train carriage to watch elephants. I also spotted baboons and Thomson’s Gazelles.
We moved too quickly to identify many birds but I couldn’t miss a vibrant Lilac-breasted Roller, and larger bird species like Marabou Storks, and a Chanting Grey Goshawk perched on the roof of a derelict railway building next to the track.
Two children shouted that they had “seen a lion lying in the grass.” Their mother and I exchanged looks of doubt and held back our sniggers.
The story of Tsavo’s man-eating lions is gripping! Keep reading…
How apt. By the light of the Full Moon, the Lunatic Express arrived in Mombasa.
As we sensed our journey coming to an end, Julia and I got a new lease of life. (Or was that the half bottle of vodka in my bag?) We bounced along the train corridor, to and from the buffet car, gently thrown left and right; it was like being on a ship.
I had lost my concept of time… one staff member said we were an hour from Mombasa; another estimated two and a half hours. Everyone – staff included – moped around listlessly in the heat. Few people had phone battery left (for much of the journey there was no phone network anyway).
The shadows of palm tress silhouetted against the moonlit sky waved us “karibu” – WELCOME into the Indian Ocean port of Mombasa.
The marathon endurance trip was finally behind us.
Several very sweaty hours and a few cold beers later, the Lunatic Express arrived at the coast. The advertised 13 hour journey was actually a 43 hour adventure from start to finish.
How to ride a tuk tuk
Thanks to the brilliant Jane Spilsbury at the Watamu Marine Association, we had a booking at Regency Park Hotel. We had a rough idea of how much to pay for a taxi from Mombasa station, thanks to RVR train staff member George, who organized our taxi. We’d bonded with our Norwegian train companions by this stage and shared the phone number of our hotel.
“Do you want to share a taxi with us?” I suggested.
“I’m not sure there will be enough room, will there?” One asked. We were five people with five sets of luggage.
“Let’s see,” I said, “we can try.”
Our lumbering great taxi driver was there on the platform to meet us. We walked towards his taxi … a tuk tuk!
We all laughed out loud. “I think we need another vehicle!” Someone said.
The giant taxi driver proceeded to pack all our bags and all five of us into his miniscule motor. How would our tall friend fit in? He shared the driver’s seat with him – one bum cheek each!
There may have been no red carpet at Mombasa, no fanfare of trumpets, yet we arrived at our hotel in style.
Parting thoughts
No-one can board the Lunatic Express train without seeing its potential and bemoaning the very poor facilities. Back in the day, this would have been a state-of-the-art train experience. All the facilities are there, including air conditioning and announcement system. There are also locks on toilet doors. (Sadly few of these work anymore). Few of the train windows open, even if the muzungu asks a strong man to assist her, and many of the window mosquito nets are torn.
Beyond that, we found the train to be clean enough (even if the bedding was patched in places). The staff were helpful, although there were no explanations for the train’s late arrival in Nairobi, late departure and even later arrival in Mombasa! At certain points our train was stuck moving behind a slow goods train. On other occasions, our train had to pull into sidings to let a goods train pass on the single track.
This train journey really could be a spectacular experience. Let’s hope it will be again when the new Standard Gauge Railway is complete and the rolling stock is upgraded.
For much of the length of the trip, we rolled parallel to the new railway line. Many sections appear to be complete; in other areas, it’s still a construction site.
At the time of writing (2016), the Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) network was set to expand to Uganda, South Sudan and Rwanda. In Uganda, it will comprise of three major routes with a total route length of 1,614km. The SGR will stretch to the DRC border.
End of the line for ‘Lunatic Express?’ Kenya begins multi-billion dollar railway.
How to survive the Lunatic Express! An essential packing list
- – A flexible itinerary
- – African concept of time!
- – GSOH good sense of humour 🙂
- – Toilet paper
- – Soap
- – Hand gel / wipes
- – Mosquito repellent
- – Earplugs
- – Playing cards or other non-electronic amusements – power sockets are hard to find
- – Rechargers / Smartphone power packs
- – A map of East Africa so you can trace your route
- – Snacks
- – Cold beers, sodas and water are available and not expensive.
- – An ice box
- – Strong liquor!
- – Cigarettes? Smokers opened a side door and sat on the steps as we moved slowly along
- – A fan
- – Kichoi (or sarong), flip-flops / sandals, shorts and T-shirts / vests.
- – A mirror! I did not see / use / even thinking of using a mirror on the train (as the photos probably tell!)
- – Contacts for a hotel in Mombasa “for when there is a delay.”
More survival tips for travelling the Lunatic Express
- – The Glory Hotel in Mombasa was recommended to us, but full, so we stayed at Regency Park Hotel. The staff were helpful and the breakfast was generous. Choose from rooms with fans or air conditioning). Pay 300 – 500 KES for a cab/tuk tuk from Mombasa Railway Station.
- – You may think you’re going to save one day by travelling overnight but if the train delays, you are likely to miss that important meeting, flight or even wedding! And if you don’t sleep very well, you will lose a day catching up on sleep as well. I’d say: only take the Lunatic Express train from Nairobi to Mombasa when you have two or three days to spare.
- – Although second class accommodation means four people share a compartment, it is bigger than the first class two-person compartment – and thus allows more air to circulate. Incredibly important if you’re travelling during a heatwave!
- – I later realized only a few passengers got off the train at Mombasa. They must have decided to sleep there until they were chucked off the train (and save renting a hotel room like we did).
- – Shower in the sink – cos there ain’t nothing else!
- – Get to know your travel companions right away. You will surely end up interacting at some point on the journey, so leave behind your sensibilities and connect with them early on. Remember: what happens on the train stays on the train! 😉
Despite the lack of communication, zero explanation and no apology for the delays, we thoroughly enjoyed our adventure on the Lunatic Express train to Mombasa. We maintained our sense of humour throughout!
Thanks to the ever smiling George. He received every complaint with a big smile and ran up and down the train all day and night trying to keep everyone happy.
Are you interested in the history of East Africa’s railways?
Nairobi is the biggest city in East Africa. It is immense.
It’s incredible to believe that Nairobi sprang up around the railway, just a little over 100 years ago. From my account of today’s rundown Lunatic Express service, you might dismiss the railways in East Africa – but history tells a very different story.
If you are interested in history, I highly recommend these articles:
Following the line of Kenya’s development is as easy as following the development of railway lines through the country.
Why did so many railway workers get killed by lions?
“The Man-Eaters of Tsavo and other East African Adventures” recalls the nine month period of terror during 1898 when over 100 men were killed by two man-eating lions. This book made British engineer Lieutenant Colonel J. H. Patterson, D.S.O. a celebrity.
“Night after night, workers disappeared in ones and twos…” and an American hunter was called in…
Arriving in the continent he has dreamed of forever, Patterson meets his project. There are problems with it: competing French and German rivals, ethnic hatred among the crews and, on Patterson’s first day there, a worker is attacked by a lion. He goes to “sort it out” by shooting the beast with one shot; gaining the admiration of his crews, lifting spirits, adding motivation to complete the bridge, and unleashing a nightmare.
Only weeks after the shooting the camp is suddenly besieged by a pair of giant man-eating lions. Their first “kill” is Mahina (Henry Cele), considered the strongest man in the camp. This serves to unnerve every man on the project, including Indian rabble-rouser Abdullah, who doesn’t like Patterson from the start. Nerves jangle and fray as the lions repeatedly and relentlessly attack and attack and attack! They strike under the cover of night AND during the heat of day; They kill not for hunger, not for sport, but simply because they like it. Men are dragged from their beds and mauled to death in the tall grasses; the hospital becomes a blood-bathe; Laborers aren’t safe as the beasts leap out and snatch them from their work. Everything is falling apart and Patterson is at his wit’s end as Beaumont arrives to make matters worse. And still the lions attack and attack and attack.
Enter Big Game Hunter Charles Remington who is as determined to destroy the lions as the lions seem determined to eat every man in camp.
From a review of The Ghost and the Darkness, a 1996 Oscar-winning film, staring Val Kilmer and Michael Douglas.
Have you traveled on the ‘Lunatic Express’ train from Nairobi to Mombasa?
Writing about these journeys prompts other people to share their experiences.
“I took the train in 1982 when I was a student. I travelled down to the coast with my fishing rods. I didn’t get a (sleeping) compartment. I threw my fishing rods in the overhead bag rack, climbed up and slept there for the whole journey, from Nairobi to Mombasa.”
Richard ‘Bug’ from Watamu
That’s an uncomfortable way to spend 12+ hours, believe me!
Once upon a time, the train ran all the way from Kampala through Nairobi on to Mombasa.
Nairobi was very different in those days. Even before the train reached Nairobi airport, you were in the bush. There were first-class compartments and a first-class dining car.
Back in the day, the train drivers were all Sikhs.
Mike from Kampala (It all sounded pretty fabulous!)
What are your train travel tips? And what are your memories of the Lunatic Express during its heyday?
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On the right track: my first Ugandan train ride
Rift Valley Railways relaunches Kampala passenger train service after 20 year break
UPDATE 2021: are you looking for information about the Kampala commuter train? Then scroll down. This blog is all about my experience when the train relaunched in 2015. The latest timetables are further down this post.
Another first this week: my first Ugandan train journey on the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train! My first African train journey, in fact!
I was very excited to hear that Rift Valley Railways, Uganda Railways Corporation (URC) and KCCA (Kampala City Council Authority) relaunched the Kampala passenger train service this week. We frequently hear the rumble of the train in the distance, but the service is confined to shunting freight from the dock at Port Bell on Lake Victoria up to Kampala’s industrial area. The train goes backwards and forwards across this short section of track a few times a week, delivering containers of imported goods via Mombasa and ‘outside countries’ beyond East Africa. The relaunch of the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train service for passenger travel marks a new beginning for the railway in Uganda. I couldn’t wait to experience it for myself.
And so 7 o’clock Tuesday morning – day 2 of the train service – I jumped on a boda boda and headed down to Kampala Railway Station, a neat colonial-type construction below Kampala Road.
Awesome Aussie journo and friend Amy Fallon was on the station platform, taking photos and looking for passengers to interview. 100 passengers had taken the 6.30 am train from Namanve to Kampala that morning but on our train (7.30 am Kampala to Namanve, heading out of the city) there were just two Bazungu writers / bloggers and a group of Uganda Railways Corporation staff. I guess we were traveling against the commuter tide, so to speak…
The staff were happy to see us and explained that each of the five carriages can take up to 200 passengers and that they expect 50% capacity by the end of this week. (Not sure whether they achieved it? But I can imagine the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train service will quickly become popular). The train staff helped us get on the train (it’s a steep climb up some vertical metal steps), and told us not to lean out of the window, for fear of hitting an overhanging branch (or something!) Either way, catching the train has to be safer than getting a boda boda or matatu taxi. The train trundled along quite slowly.
I love trains, I always have, I can’t help but get excited when I hear the whistle and the train slowly leaves the station.
Rift Valley Railways train pulling out of Kampala Railway Station – day 2 of the new passenger service from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu.
Rift Valley Railways train Kampala from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu.
Living next to the railway was a big part of the enjoyment of living in Namuwongo. As the train advanced down the track, the train would let out a long whistle, scattering folk who were selling their wares along the track! The ground would shudder as the passed just two metres from our compound wall.
“I saw the face of the train!” Our housegirl Eva shouted excitedly one day. (I guess that means it nearly ran her over!) The train had approached her front (face) on.
I was lucky enough to get the inside view of Kampala railway station last year, when it was open to the public (briefly) for the first time since 1984, thanks to some lobbying by Umeme and KCCA.
This was for the launch of the KLA ART Festival, boda boda recycled art display and gallery show. I miss European architecture, so it was a treat to access this building. Kampala Railway Station really is a treasure of a building, and I hope the original features continue to be maintained (and preserved) to the same standard. All credit to Rift Valley Railways for not letting this building fall apart through neglect, as so easily can happen. It’s an interesting snapshot of another era.
Our live updates from the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train went down a storm on social media; everyone seemed to have lots of questions about the train price, journey times, number of stops, age of the train, nationality of the train driver! Of course some people expect something for nothing, and one man was shocked at the ‘high price of’ the 1,500 UGX (Uganda shillings) for a ticket. Frankly that’s a total bargain if you can avoid sitting in a traffic jam… Amy and I asked around and it’s pretty impossible to get into central Kampala for less than that by any other means. (1500 UGX is around 50 US cents at the time of writing this in 2015).
For our virgin Ugandan train ride, Amy brought a bottle of champagne. “Orient Express” – eat your heart out! Our excitement, the great photo opportunities and waving at passers-by, meant our journey quickly passed before we even had time to think about breakfast or Champers…!
It shows how long it is since the train service ran: one Diary of a Muzungu Facebook fan, keen to try the service for himself, asked me where the station is. “Er…. in Station Road!” I replied. (The guy is probably in his 20s. The station has rarely been open to passengers during his lifetime, so how would he know anything about the railway station?) Apparently the passenger train last ran 20 years ago.
Older Kampala residents passed on illuminating comments about the railway’s history. Vali told me how he used to catch the train to boarding school in Nairobi from Kampala railway station, back in the day. Eric told me that he used to go to school along Old Port Bell Road. “The train was always punctual. When it departed Kampala railway station, it let out a whistle. We always knew that the whistle signalled school break time!” You may imagine yourself back in Kampala of the 1950s if you visit Malcolm McCrow’s East African railway photos and anecdotes.
CHOO-CHOO! Train coming through!
I’m sure the passenger train service will be a big hit with a lot of people, although capacity of 4,000 UGX is not a lot. Several of my Facebook Fans plan to take the trip, and I highly recommend it, simply to see another side of Kampala. Have you ever seen the workings of one of Kampala’s abattoirs? It’s a different world out there!
UPDATE 2021: The Kampala commuter train service is now run by Uganda Railways Corporation. The passenger train takes four trips every weekday between Namanve and central Kampala. The 45-minute journey stops at Nakawa (MUBS), Spedag (zone 4), Kireka, Namboole and Namanve. The first train of the day leaves Namanve at 7 am. It arrives at Kampala main station at 7.45 am. In the evening, trains depart from Kampala main station at 5.30 pm and 7.50 pm. I could not see pricing information on the URC website but I don’t think it has changed significantly from the 1,500 UGX (one way) price we paid in 2015.
So what’s next for the railways in Uganda and East Africa?
The Rift Valley Railways Kampala train passenger service from Kampala to Namanve was a one-year pilot project. UPDATE 2021: The service is a success and is still running.
More interestingly, work has started on the development of the Standard Gauge Railway across East Africa. This article looks at the differences between the original railway line and the planned new one. Substantial investment is being made into Uganda’s infrastructure, from the Kenyan border to the border with Rwanda; up to South Sudan in the north and down south to Tanzania. The rationale for the project is to make it quicker and cheaper to move goods from Mombasa inland through the East African community. Apparently, rail will quarter the costs of transport, half the time it takes to move the goods, and make the roads safer for the rest of us. Many of Uganda’s roads have been developed over the last few years but the daily transit of thundering heavy goods vehicles quickly destroys them again.
Uganda Railways Corporation is also rehabilitating railway track between Kampala and Port Bell, and Tororo and Gulu.
On a personal level, the Muzungu’s next African train journey simply had to be the Nairobi to Mombasa overnight train with complimentary safari en route through Tsavo National Park. The history of the East African railway and the so-called ‘Lunatic Express’ is captivating (yet terrible in parts).
My short journey from Kampala railway station started my research into the history of East Africa’s development. I confess, I have become a total train geek! It’s incredible to think that Nairobi and modern Kenya all started through the development of the railway. The whole Lunatic Express journey was fascinating from start to finish: the old-fashioned train compartments, the impromptu safari, the history of East Africa, and so much more. The Nairobi to Mombasa train is notorious for breaking down in the middle of nowhere… (but then the Muzungu was marooned in the middle of Lake Victoria on the ill-fated MV Templar for a whole night this week…) so anything is possible when she travels! In fact you may recall this cross-border travel misadventure.
Have you travelled by train in East Africa? Share your experiences here (and don’t forget to sign up for Diary of a Muzungu’s free newsletter!)
