Rwanda

The Muzungu’s top reasons to #VisitRwanda

1 – Go mountain gorilla trekking in the Virunga mountains, northern Rwanda. I have written extensively about gorilla tracking in Rwanda. Click on the links for more information or refer to my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking.

2 – Learn about gorilla conservation. Visit the grave of famous primatologist Dian Fossey and her favourite gorilla, Digit

Mountain Gorilla Kinigi, trekking in Rwanda. Diary of a Muzungu
Meet this gorgeous Mountain Gorilla at Kinigi, the base for gorilla trekking in Rwanda

3 – Rwanda is an eco-tourist’s dream: 670 bird species, 400 butterfly species, primates galore!

4 – Golden monkey trekking is highly recommended!

5 – Enjoy safari game drives in Akagera National Park, bordering Uganda, a ‘small but perfectly formed’ savannah safari destination where animal numbers are on the increase. Read Rhinos to Rwanda: the largest ever transport of rhinos from Europe to Africa begins today.

Eastern Black Rhino Akagera National Park. PHOTO RDB
Eastern Black Rhino Akagera National Park. PHOTO RDB
Diary of a Muzungu. Akagera National Park, VisitRwanda
Learning all about Akagera National Park with the rangers

6 – Take advantage of free WiFi across Kigali! Oh yes! You can even check your email or WhatsApp when you’re on the city’s buses.

7 – Learn about the genocide of 1994. Visit the Gisozi Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali. Incredibly moving and a must-visit experience.

8 – Lie on the tropical beach at Lake Kivu. Rwanda has a number of crystal clear lakes. The sandy beaches and tropical weather of Lake Kivu, shared with neighbouring Democratic Republic of the Congo, make the lake a popular weekend and holiday spot. Gisenyi and Kibuye are two popular resort towns.

Top things to do in Gisenyi, Lake Kivu. View from Inzozi Beach Hotel
Top things to do in Gisenyi, Lake Kivu. View from Inzozi Beach Hotel
Top things to do in Gisenyi, Lake Kivu. Eat sambaza fish
Top things to do in Gisenyi, Lake Kivu. Eat sambaza fish
Top things to do in Gisenyi, Lake Kivu. Stand up paddling SUP
Top things to do in Gisenyi, Lake Kivu. Stand up paddling SUP

9 – Go chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe Forest. Birding in Nyungwe Forest is popular and the forest is home to big groups of Black and White Colobus monkeys. I travelled to Nyungwe Forest with my good friend primatologist chimpanzee expert Julia. Julia Lloyd features in the World Atlas of Great Apes and Their Conservation (and is best known for her work in habituating the chimpanzees of Kibale Forest in Uganda).

Julia Lloyd uwinka-overlook-nyungwe-national-park-rwanda
Uwinka Overlook, Nyungwe National Park is the starting point for chimpanzee tracking in Rwanda. I accompanied my primatologist friend Julia Lloyd (pictured) to Nyungwe as part of the research for her Phd.

10 – Hike the magical volcanoes of the Virunga

virunga-volcanoes-clouds-charlotte-beauvoisin-diary-of-a-muzungu
No Photoshop, just an IPhone. With natural scenery this dramatic, that’s all you need. Photo taken one morning as I opened my bedroom door at Virunga Lodge

11 – Watch fabulous traditional Intore dancing. The traditional culture of Rwanda is evidenced everywhere: the Intore dancers are captivating!

Virunga Lodge Intore dancers Rwanda
Virunga Lodge Intore dancers Rwanda
Virunga Lodge Rwanda Intore dancing
intore-dancer-mural-golden-monkey-hotel-rwanda
What do you think? Will the muzungu make it as an Intore dancer? 😉

12 – Rwanda is a small, accessible country with good roads

12 – English is the (new) lingua franca and French is spoken by many in the capital and in hotels and tourist destinations

13 – The East Africa Tourist Visa makes travel to Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya more affordable.

East Africa Tourist Visa www.visiteastafrica.org
East Africa Tourist Visa. Enjoy all three countries – Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda – with a single tourist visa. www.visiteastafrica.org

The small landlocked country of Rwanda is known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills,” something which you will very quickly appreciate on a road trip. I still have the feeling of being thrown from left to right, right to left, for hours on end, when we drove up and down the hills, round one bend, then back around another, as we travelled from Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, down to Bujumbura, the capital of Burundi. (Historically connected, the two countries share very similar geography).

Rwanda is flourishing, and tourists love to visit this safe and popular little country that has invested heavily in tourism and infrastructure over the last two decades.

Cha with gorilla Rwanda
The obligatory gorilla selfie! TIP: you’ll cherish your gorilla selfie forever… so try and get more sleep than I did. I think I was too excited!
Virunga Lodge gorilla trekking Rwanda
Mother and her twin baby gorillas pushed right past me! Her long hair brushed my leg as I tried to hide my nervous giggles

Many visitors are lured to Rwanda by the famous and critically endangered Mountain Gorillas, who make their home in the staggeringly beautiful Virunga volcanic chain.

It is even possible to fly into Rwanda for just 24 hours to see the gorillas, but I wouldn’t recommend that, there’s a lot more to Rwanda than the mountain gorillas.

diary-of-a-muzungu-kitabi-view-nyungwe-forest-rwanda
Distant view of Nyungwe Forest, seen from Kitabi Cultural Village. We stayed in the traditional huts on the top of this small hill (opposite the park HQ)

Did you know…? The East Africa Tourist Visa makes it easier and cheaper to combine a trip to Rwanda with a visit to Uganda and Kenya

Are you planning a Rwanda tour? Check out my Travel Directory or read reviews of 100s of Rwanda tour operators on SafariBookings.com

Where to travel in East Africa: the muzungu’s recommendations

Diary of a Muzungu’s recommendations for Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda

Happy New Year, dear Diary reader! Thanks for your support.

Are you thinking about where the next 12 months will take you? Here are some of my favourite places …

uganda-country-flagUGANDA – Kampala “KLA”- coffee, culture and chimpanzees!

Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).

Diary of a Muzungu, Kampala Insider Guide, Politiken Rjejser, Denmark
Kampala Insider Guide, Politiken Rjejser, Denmark’s most popular daily

There are many Kampala tours; uniquely, the Kampala Dark Day Tour is the creation of a criminologist! Namugongo Martyrs Shrine and Wamala Tombs are two of the tour’s most fascinating historical stops (blogs in draft folder!)

idi-amins-bentley-car-lubiri-palace-kampala
Name that car! And who was its (in)famous owner?

Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, Lake Victoria

Our closest relative is bound to inspire you! Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary is perfect for a family day out, for camping with friends or as a romantic overnight getaway. It is internationally reknown for its high standards of primate care.

Ndayakira Ngamba Island Uganda chimp www.chrisaustria.com
Ndayakira is one of the 49 chimpanzees that calls Ngamba Island home. Many have been rescued fom the illicit pet trade. Photo courtesy of www.ChrisAustria.com
feeding time Ngamba Island chimpanzee sanctuary Uganda
One of the most extraordinary sights I’ve ever seen and heard: a wall of NOISY chimpanzees reaching out for their breakfast porridge!

The whole family LOVED Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary!

Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, near Kisoro

Mgahinga Mount Gahinga Volcanoes Batwa dancing
Batwa dancing at Mount Gahinga Lodge Volcanoes Safaris Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Uganda

Be the first of your friends to track the gorillas of Mgahinga! The little-visited but engaging gorilla family has now been resident for three years, so sightings are virtually guaranteed. Alternatively, track the rare golden monkeys, hike one of the Virunga’s three volcanoes or interact with the Batwa tribe who inhabited the forests for 60,000 years. Their story is unique. For all the info you need to plan your trip to one my favourite parts of Uganda, read Can you name the distant volcanoes of Mgahinga?. Fly with Aerolink from Entebbe to Kisoro for a real treat!

Muzungu bow arrow. Batwa Heritage Experience, Mount Gahinga Lodge
The Muzungu tries her hand at the bow and arrow. Batwa Heritage Experience. A project developed by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust

Promoting tourism across Uganda: Arua and West Nile

Enthusiasm for tourism in Uganda is at an all time high across the country. I loved visiting Gerald Iga’s hometown of Arua. Read what I discovered in “10 little-known things to do in Arua & West Nile.”

diary-of-a-muzungu-meets-gerard-iga-inside-west-nile
Eating local food is one of my ’10 little-known things to do in Arua and West Nile’
 

Birdwatching – anywhere and everywhere in Uganda!

Sunbird Hill, next to Kibale Forest, is named for its 14 sunbird species (I’m sure the birding experts will find more!)

Identifying a Sunbird - not always easy, even with the bird guide!
Identifying a Sunbird – it’s not always easy, even with the bird guide!

Ornithologist Malcolm Wilson is planning his next bird ringing expeditions when he will be ringing at Sunbird Hill and other popular Ugandan birding locations. Read Malcolm’s blog of a previous bird ringing trip to Sunbird Hill.

white-collared-oliveback Sunbird Hill Kibale
To show how special the place is, here’s a bird caught at Sunbird Hill, that is very seldom seen anywhere – a White-collared Oliveback!

kenya-country-flagKENYA – Nairobi nightlife, rail journeys & the coast

Come, we go! The East Africa Tourist Visa & Interstate Pass make travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda cheaper for tourists and expats + easier for nationals. Read my blog and go!

standard-gauge-railway-viaduct-Kenya
View of the new viaduct from the ‘Lunatic Express’ train. The Standard Gauge Railway opened in 2017. The raised viaduct is aimed at minimising the rail’s impact on the wildlife of Tsavo

Did you know…? In 2017 the ‘Lunatic Express’ train from Nairobi to Mombasa was replaced by new trains on a new track. This gives you two opportunities: to ride the old-fashioned trains for the last time and, after Easter, enjoy the far quicker four-hour journey to the coast.

scuba diving Turtle Bay Dive Centre, Water Sports Watamu
Will this be the year I go scuba diving in Watamu? Or will I have to settle for snorkeling, dolphin and whale watching?!

Tawi Lodge was named Ecotourism Kenya’s Eco-Warrior Facility of the Year. The award-winning conservancy has arguably the best views of (Tanzania’s) Mount Kilimanjaro.

Have you visited the muzungu’s Kenya travel page?

rwanda-country-flagRWANDA: Nyungwe Forest, Rwanda

Kampala to Nyungwe by road: 14 hours by bus + 3 hours by matatu minibus + hmmm… a bit longer on a smaller bus + half an hour ride on a boda boda through the dark forest + hitch hiking is not everyone’s dream journey but Jules and I LOVED it! Nyungwe Forest’s canopy walk and chimp tracking are both highly recommended.

Have you visited the muzungu’s Rwanda travel page ?

uwinka-overlook-nyungwe-national-park-rwanda
Uwinka Overlook is the HQ for Nyungwe National Park, southwest Rwanda. I traveled with expert primatologist Julia Lloyd as part of her Phd. research
diary-of-a-muzungu-kitabi-huts-nyungwe-rwanda
We loved sleeping in the traditional huts at Kitabi Cultural Village! Opposite Nyungwe Park HQ

Nyungwe Forest is in a remote corner of East Africa that borders Burundi and the DRC.

viewpoint-kampala-hash-house-harriers-oraba-border-west-nile
The Hash House harriers keep leading me astray across East Africa! Here in Oraba, West Nile, Uganda shares a tripartite border with both South Sudan and the DRC. Will the muzungu “reach” the DRC in 2017?

And just for laughs, here are a few highlights that you may have missed:

… laughing & (crying?) at another of the muzungu’s dating disasters

… more dramas at the airport!

… stalking celebrities! I love #SityaLoss – still my favourite dance video!

diary-of-a-muzungu-meets-sitya-loss-singer-eddie-kenzo
I was very excited to meet Ugandan “Sitya Loss” singer Eddie Kenzo at the launch of the #Tulambule domestic tourism event

DID YOU KNOW…? Daily updates, Uganda travel advice and random photos come thick and fast on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page or follow me @CharlieBeau on Twitter.

It’s going to be a busy year for Diary of a Muzungu – where will you be traveling to? Do keep in touch!