17 must-try experiences in Mombasa!
17 must-try experiences in – and on the way to – Mombasa
Mombasa is closer than you think…
I recently flew to the coast – with a few hours stopover in Nairobi. Here are the muzungu’s 17 recommendations on how to fly, where to stay, what to eat, and more!
1. Fly to Mombasa via Nairobi
Our journey to the coast started with an early morning flight from Entebbe to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi.
We passed a day sightseeing in Nairobi, Kenya before catching the short flight to Mombasa.
2. Eat breakfast at Four Points by Sheraton, a hotel that overlooks both the JKIA runway and Nairobi National Park
Breakfast time found us on the outdoor terrace of the Marketplace restaurant of Four Points by Sheraton, a high-class hotel in a unique location.
Whether you are a safari goer or a plane spotter, you’ll love staying at Four Points JKIA. (Rooms are soundproofed so you aren’t disturbed by the planes). I could imagine staying here for business meetings between flights. The hotel caters for tourists, walk-in guests and corporates.
3. Take a safari game drive in Nairobi National Park!
It was fun to fit in a game drive before our early evening flight to Mombasa. Nairobi is the only East African city where you can go on a game drive. Here’s my story about my first safari in Nairobi National Park.
4. Eat lunch at ROAST by Carnivore in Karen
5. Hop on the flight to Mombasa
Woo hoo! THE COAST is calling me! We took the evening flight from JKIA to Mombasa’s Moi International Airport.
6. Soak up the nautical theme at Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali, north coast Mombasa
As we entered the gates of Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, north coast Mombasa, the ascari raised his trumpet to sound a fanfare to welcome us on board. The resort’s fun nautical style is apparent throughout: rooms are known as cabins, floors are decks and the staff dress in naval uniforms. The theme continues as the Voyager ‘docks in a new port’ every day, meaning the resort takes on the menus – and more – of the new destination. One day the Voyager docked in Mexico; another day we docked in Mombasa for Swahili breakfast and dinner. Local fabrics adorn the dining room to complete the look.
Voyager Beach Resort is the ideal location for all-inclusive family holidays on the coast. (It’s the kind of place I LOVED as a kid!) Think kids’ activities, yoga classes, live music, theme nights, family shows, activities for teenagers, watersports centre, gym, three swimming pools, tennis courts and four bars. One night we watched the brilliant Mombasa Roots play live as the ‘Animation Team’ (resort staff dressed in yellow T-shirts with a big letter A on them) got guests moving and a grooving on the dancefloor – (there was some classic Dad Dancing on display too!) Voyager is a mixed crowd of Kenyans and other Africans, Europeans and a few Americans. There’s a super relaxed vibe.
7. Contemplate the colours (and your morals) at the Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple
What a way to start our day… gazing at the gorgeous colours of the temple’s painted walls and doors put me in a fantastic mood. Take a closer look and many of the images are rather scary: dire predictions about how thieves, drinkers and meat eaters will be ravaged in hell. (These graphic warnings did not put us off enjoying everything that Mombasa had to offer us however!)
This temple is a cracker. There’s no charge to enter (and if you arrive before 10.30 am they will open the inner sanctum for you). If you admire temples, there is another one further along Haile Selassie Avenue.
8. Stop for a selfie with ‘Pembe za ndovu’ Mombasa’s giant elephant tusks
Pembe za ndovu is the Swahili name for Mombasa’s famous elephant tusks that form a M shape across Moi Avenue. Selfies here are the classic “look at me, I’m in Mombasa” shot.
According to my driver, Mombasa’s tusks (thin sheets of metal) were erected in 1956 by a European. He got the date right. The European was Princess Margaret of Great Britain who visited that year. Does the M stand for Margaret or for Mombasa?
Be mindful of the traffic while posing for your selfie – Moi Avenue is a busy road.
9. Taste local snacks on Mama Ngina Drive
Mama Ngina Drive is famous for the freshly fried kachri ya muhogo cassava crisps and chilli washed down by madafu coconut water – the perfect combo!
You can pick up tourist souvenirs and trinkets on Mama Ngina Drive. (I doubt you should buy the seashells and many countries won’t allow you to take them through customs). This makes thought-provoking reading: You might want to think twice before buying a seashell souvenir.
I’d avoid the rather dilapidated toilets in the Mama Ngina heritage building if you can. (The blue and white building looks like a lighthouse). The place is clean enough for the cheap entry price but toilet doors don’t seem to lock.
From Mama Ngina Drive, you can watch the non-stop flow of human traffic embarking and disembarking the Likoni Ferry that connects north and south coast Mombasa. As we watched the tens of thousands of people pass by, you might imagine they are running to catch an Underground train in London or the Metro in Paris.
10. Pretend to be a commuter: take the Likoni Ferry
The July weather had us running down the slope in the rain to catch the ferry from Mama Ngina Drive across to Likoni. Pedestrians travel for free; cars, tuk tuks, and heavy lorries pay a small fee. Men on bicycles ship jerry cans; women carry bundles of produce for the market; small trucks are loaded with goats.
As soon as the Likoni Ferry fills up, it sets off for the other side of the creek. The journey lasts just a few minutes but gave us a chance to look upstream to the Port of Mombasa and downstream to the Indian Ocean. The Likoni Ferry may not be on every tourist’s itinerary but it does give you an insight into the everyday lives of the people of Mombasa.
11. Step into 500 years of history with a guided tour of Fort Jesus
Despite numerous trips to – or should I say through – Mombasa, this was my first time to visit Fort Jesus. Entry fees to Fort Jesus are 400 KES (local price) or 1200 KES (muzungu price!) plus guide fee, which is negotiable.
Our guide Dunga recounted the history of Fort Jesus. In 1498, Vasco de Gama – with a Christian cross emblazoned on his sail – first passed the Kenyan coast en route to India. In 1593, the Portuguese invaded and built Fort Jesus as a military garrison.
Beyond the heavy cannons, the Fort Jesus’ small museum records the history of conquests and sieges by the Portuguese, Arabs, Omanis and British. On display are pottery, old stamp collections and beautiful artefacts from Persia, Oman and China. The Omani Museum showcases modern displays in an ancient building. I wish I’d paid more attention. (Next time I’ll leave my camera behind and just take my notebook…)
The areas open to the public are small enough to make Fort Jesus an easy trip of half a day or less. Visit early morning when it is not too hot. Afterwards, drink some fresh tamarind juice under one of the ancient trees on the main road.
Mombasa is a melting pot of African, Arab and European influences. Nowhere is this more evident than in Fort Jesus.
12. Explore the Old Town of Mombasa on foot
The Old Town of Mombasa is an interesting mix of narrow streets and Swahili architecture. Hire a local guide to scratch below the surface of this UNESCO-listed city. I adored the antiques and knick-knacks in the Gallery Shop, one of many curio shops. I could have spent all afternoon browsing!
13. Enjoy the ocean breeze at Forodhani Restaurant
Forodhani’s quiet location is five minutes’ walk from Fort Jesus, next to the Old Port, with a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and English Point, a small promontory of land on the north coast opposite Fort Jesus.
Beyond its setting, the restaurant is nothing special to look at, some plastic tables and chairs, no table decoration. Since I was in a Muslim city, I decided to try a mutton biryani; it came in a spicy tomato sauce with plenty of meat. I also ate a delicious lamb kofta sausage. According to my Kenyan travel companions, the standards were not as good as before. Service was average and staff attention was minimal but lunch was pretty affordable (and the restaurant worth visiting simply for the view and the cool breeze!)
Across the water is English Point Marina, a state of the art luxury development that looks across to Fort Jesus.
14. Chill on a sunset dhow cruise and dine at La Marina Restaurant, Mtwapa
Our sunset cruise along the inland waterways of Mtwapa Creek left from the jetty at La Marina, where our enthusiastic hostess Alice took our dinner orders and organised my preferred tipple of Kenya Cane rum for our cruise boat’s bar. The leisurely cruise was a calming tonic after our day exploring the city of Mombasa. Our small group had the whole creek to ourselves that night. Oh the starlit sky!
The candlelit, open air palm tree terrace at La Marina Restaurant is a romantic setting on the edge of the creek. (I feel relaxed just remembering that night). Dinner was exquisite: calamari in a creamy sauce for me, followed by grilled suli suli Kingfish. Other seafood options were octopus, sushi, baked oysters, king prawns and grilled lobster. I’ve always loved seafood (even more now that I live in land-locked Uganda and visits to the coast are such a treat!)
La Marina Restaurant is a short drive north from Nyali. Call +254 (0)723 223737 for bookings. For the full romance, watch the sun going down aboard a traditional Arab dhow.
15. Feed the giraffes and crocodiles and meet a 200 year old tortoise at Haller Park
During Mombasa’s hot months, there’s no place I’d rather be than here underneath the trees. What a gift Haller Park is!
Haller Park deserves several entries in this list of things to do in Mombasa as there are so many activities you can take part in, from physical exercise to animal feeding to educational tours.
Be there at 11 o’clock or 3 o’clock to take part in the giraffe feeding. Crocodiles also get a little snack every day at 4.40 pm. (They have their main feed of 10 kg of meat just once a month).
There were shrieks from our group as we passed through the reptile enclosure. Many of the snakes had been rescued from local homes. I don’t mind snakes but felt rather nervous when the Puff Adder eyeballed me. That snake has a mean reputation!
During the 1950s, the Haller Park site was a Bamburi Cement quarry. Thanks to the vision of a certain Dr Haller, the barren quarry site was reclaimed for the environment: it is now a popular location for biking and running the nature trails, and school trips, thanks to Lafarge Eco Systems (a subsidiary of Bamburi Cement).
Haller Park opened to the public in 1984. The transformation from barren site to lush woodland is phenomenal and gives me hope for the future.
Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to meet Owen the hippo and Mzee, his giant tortoise buddy! When Owen was stranded after a tsunami, he was rescued by Kenyan villagers. To everyone’s amazement, the orphan hippo and Mzee, a 130-yr-old tortoise, became inseparable. Photos of their friendship made them worldwide celebrities. Their friendship has even spawned a Broadway musical!
16. Admire the multi-coloured starfish on a glass-bottomed boat ride and snorkelling adventure
I never knew starfish came in so many colours! Orange, red, blue, brown and grey were clearly visible as our boat motored along the coast. But note: don’t pick up the starfish. Pulling them out of the water can kill them, even if they are put back! And boat operators turn a blind eye to this…
The highlight of our afternoon was anchoring in shallow water and walking to an exposed sandy ledge of the reef to explore the crevices of the rock pools for sea urchins, starfish and shellfish.
Kenya Wildlife Service manages the country’s protected areas. In addition to the cost of the boat ride, you’ll need to pay the Mombasa Marine National Park entry fee if you want to snorkel.
Snorkeling, scuba-diving lessons, big-game fishing, windsurfing and canoeing and dhow safaris can all be arranged from Voyager Resort.
17. Taste Nyali nightlife!
Next stop Tapas Cielo lounge bar for a Johnnie Walker /DJ night. Eddy Kenzo and Sauti Sol videos made a perfect night of it at Anuba Lounge.
I wish I’d stayed longer in Nyali. I get the feeling that Mombasans are very like Ugandans – they’re easy going and love to party!
More about Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, Mombasa
We were so caught up in sightseeing in Mombasa, I’m not sure I did the Voyager’s facilities justice. It’s the perfect base for family holidays, with an extensive programme of activities, sports, entertainment, shows and tours for all ages. However, research for this blog forced me to sample the bars – at least!
My favourite was the Lookout Bar (above the beach) and the small Harbour Bar near the restaurant. Go find Raymond – he’s an award-winning cocktail maker!
Voyager caters to many tastes: European, Indian, African and more. While most meals are served buffet-style in the main restaurant, Voyager’s Minestrone Restaurant has an Italian à la carte menu (included in the all-inclusive price).
The Smugglers’ Cove restaurant is hidden in a coral cave! The food was superb (discounted for Voyager residents).
The balcony of my deluxe room looked onto gardens of palm trees, just 50 metres from the beach. It was perfect. The room had aircon, TV (did I even switch it on?), fridge, a good size safe, a powerful shower and plenty of complimentary toiletries. Voyager has 234 cabins, of various styles, each with its own balcony.
Brief Encounter. Of romance & railways – Kenya’s SGR train ride [UPDATED]
Brief Encounter – the muzungu’s complete guide to Kenya’s Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) ‘Madaraka Express’ train between Nairobi and Mombasa
Ah, the romance of train journeys!
My love affair with trains started as a child when my Mum and I would take an occasional train journey to London. As the train pulled into the stately St Pancras station, passengers would pull down windows to open the heavy doors and jump from the still-moving train onto the platform. I can still feel the reverberations of those doors slamming shut behind them. I can smell the diesel. I can hear the whistle as the train gets ready to depart.
European culture resonates with train imagery: grand architecture, long cross-country journeys, meetings with strangers. The 1945 film Brief Encounter is centred around a railway station and is regarded – in Britain at least – as one of the best romantic films of all time. It’s a personal favourite, for its unspoken desires, and the dramatic tension between the two lead actors. The station’s night time setting heightens the drama of this clandestine affair.
My love for the railways was rekindled in East Africa when my friend Amy and I took the Rift Valley Railways commuter train across Kampala.
However, the romance was to be short-lived: the first stop was the abattoir. The Rift Valley Railways train service stopped, started, stopped and in 2024 has resumed once more!
Nonetheless, the short 20 minute journey fired my imagination and had me researching the Uganda Railway and its history. This led to a far bigger adventure: traveling from Nairobi to Mombasa on the infamous Lunatic Express – a journey many had warned me against taking. It took us an incredible 23 hours… in a heatwave no less.
Just last week, we finally got our act together to board the new Standard Gauge Railway train, but a few questions remained:
- Would the train leave on time?
- Would it be as exciting as our first rail journey between Kenya’s two biggest cities?
- Would it have the same sense of history?
- Would I be able to buy a cold Tusker on the train?
- Would there be romance… ?
This is the muzungu’s guide to taking Kenya’s Standard Gauge Railway train between Nairobi and Mombasa, based on my personal experience of the original Lunatic Express, the bus and the SGR train. Branded ‘the Madaraka Express’, I compare the SGR train ride with the bus, I describe Mombasa and Nairobi Standard Gauge Railway stations and tell you what it is like on the train. I share tips for using the SGR train, the booking process and how to pay by M-Pesa. I also suggest a few ways the service could be developed for an even better traveling experience.
The SGR train is deemed to be a great success since its inaugural trip in May 2017. At 5,000 Kenya shillings (KES), even first class tickets represent good value for money (and are usually cheaper than flying). We opt for second class tickets, which are cheaper than bus tickets, at just 1500 KES each. (Prices updated June 2024). We take the bus from Nairobi to Mombasa and the SGR train for the return leg of the trip.
Here’s our story of the bus and the SGR train, and the pros and cons of each mode of transport. In summary, the train wins but the advantages are not clear cut. Here’s why:
As befits railway infrastructure grands projets, Mombasa Standard Gauge Railway station is an impressive structure. The building has been designed well to accommodate the flow of passengers. It is light and spacious.
There is high security at Mombasa SGR station. It starts with the (very inconvenient) stop before the bridge above the station. Julia persuades the police to let our tuk tuk full of baggage drive across the bridge and down the ramp, but not all train passengers are as fortunate. Many have to walk. (2018).
In a temporary-looking structure in front of the station, we dutifully place our bags in front of the sniffer dogs. I know I’m going to be asked to delete the photo, but I still risk taking one!
Next our bags are scanned and our bodies frisked. We go through this process a second time as we enter the main building. Julia is quizzed about her penknife and a glass bottle. At the entry to the main building are two security information boards but, by the time you’ve reached the SGR station, it’s too late to act on much of the information displayed. (An advisory email or SMS would be useful).
We eye up the futuristic-looking glass elevator.
“Are you first-class people?” Asks the security operative. “Yes! Of course we are.” (It’s a shame we only have second-class tickets though!) The elevator goes to the first class VIP waiting area only, on the floor above ours. We take the escalator, giggling.
Security is tight. Staff don’t like us taking photos and I am told off, more than once!
In the ticketing area, a large board shows the availability of trains for the coming eight days. It appears that first-class tickets are sold out quickly: all first-class tickets have been sold out for three days, and very nearly sold out for another three days. Afternoon trains are the most popular.
“Please go to the counter for real-time updates” says the sign but why not use the public address system to make life easier? It doesn’t make sense to ask several hundred people to queue at the counter for updates.
There are several toilets in the building, although not enough. Our floor has a disabled toilet, and three other stalls. We find them to be clean. Ladies, there is even toilet paper!
In 2024, there is a vending machine for drinks, crisps and sweets on the ground floor and a cafe upstairs (in stark contrast to 2018 when we were gobsmacked that there was nowhere to buy anything to eat or drink at Mombasa SGR station, not even water. Neither did we see a drinking water fountain. In 2018 I wrote: what happens if you are taken ill? It would take you between 15 and 30 minutes to exit the station, walk up the long ramp, cross the bridge, buy water, come back the same way – and then pass back through three lots of security. If you’re ill, disabled or with children, you’re going to struggle. Plan ahead.
The station has hundreds of seats, but more are needed. Is there Wi-Fi? (There still wasn’t any on the train in June 2024). You can’t smoke in the station.
There is a prerecorded announcement to advise when it is time to board the train. The lady has a Chinese accent. We leave exactly on time: 3.00 in the afternoon. Staff are smartly dressed in uniform and stand on the platform, making sure we board on time. They watch the train pull away from the platform.
What’s it like on the SGR train?
The train feels fresh and cool as we enter. It’s very clean. First impressions are good.
There is a small table between each set of seats. I feel like we’re travelling in a caravan.
Curtains allow you to block out the afternoon sun. Next to the window seat is a small hook for a coat or handbag.
Although we have three seats – 98, 99 and 100 – only two of the seats are next to each other. The seat numbering system is confusing.
A man and a woman push a snack trolley down the aisle. I fancy something to eat. Tea is 100 Kenya shillings, Tusker is 250 bob and a beef or chicken sandwich is 350. Sandwiches are fresh and tasty (although I’m not a big fan of sweet white bread). (2018 prices).
For the first hour of our journey, the train is quiet. After a while everyone starts chatting. That’s the upside of there being no WiFi.
To kill time, Julia and I tuck into some baobab fruit. Our tongues turn bright red with the food colouring. The baobab fruits looks as inviting as a fresh raspberry but are moss-covered stones that require several minutes hard sucking to release the sweetness.
Ten minutes after Voi station, Dianah calls out “Charlotte, you have missed elephants!” I’m sitting on the wrong side of the train to watch Tsavo’s wildlife. Our seats look onto the ‘transport corridor’ – the old railway line and the road, and that’s fine for now: I’m focused on comparing road and rail (the elephants can wait!)
There are regular messages to throw litter in the bin. The toilets are clean throughout the journey. Three quarters of an hour before Nairobi, a member of staff picks up the remaining rubbish. They even mop the floor!
We arrive at Nairobi SGR station five hours later, at exactly the time expected.
Nairobi SGR station is a state-of-the-art piece of infrastructure. It’s easy to navigate and well lit. We cross over the railway line to take the 50 bob shuttle train to Nairobi’s original railway station. SGR staff tell us it will take 20 minutes. It takes us 50 minutes. From the station, we take an Uber. It’s been a long day for us: we left Watamu in a tuk tuk at 7.30 am. Next we boarded a matatu from Malindi to Mombasa before taking another tuk tuk from the centre of Mombasa to the SGR station.
Photos of the SGR stations and route: the muzungu’s guide to the SGR ‘Madaraka Express’ train between Nairobi and Mombasa
Advantages of taking the Standard Gauge Railway train
The SGR train journey time is five hours.
The train is safe – no dodgy overtaking of container lorries.
The journey is smooth – no potholes. (No sports bra needed! Unlike traveling in a bumpy tuk tuk!)
The train is more spacious. Tall friends may prefer first-class for its legroom but second-class is fine as you can easily stand up and stretch your legs by walking between the carriages.
Travelling by train is more secure than the bus. There are numerous security checks before you get on the train – cameras in the station? The train doesn’t have seat belts (neither does it have to overtake into oncoming traffic).
The train has toilets.
The train has air-conditioning. It is dust-free travel – even in the dry season.
You can drink alcohol on the train, but you can’t carry your own drinks. Bags are searched at stations and alcohol is confiscated. You can buy alcohol and other drinks and snacks on the train. If you’re in first class, you have access to a dining car. (2024)
It’s easier to watch birds and wildlife from the train!
Each train carriage has a dedicated member of staff. Our lady was very friendly.
The train is cheaper than the bus, if you buy a second class ticket. Ticket prices: 1500 Kenya shillings ($) standard class. First class tickets are 5,000 KES ($) each. (Updated 2024). (Discounts available for children). However, the train journey price works out substantially higher than the ticket cost alone since you have to factor in travel to and from the SGR stations (in remote locations outside the city centres).
Advantages of taking the bus
Some of us enjoy slow travel. The bus journey time is eight hours.
If you take the bus, you can get from the centre of Nairobi to the centre of Mombasa without having to change vehicle. If you have lots of bags, are travelling with children, or have mobility issues, you might prefer to simply take the bus.
You only have to buy one ticket for the whole journey, meaning less hassle. If you take the SGR, you have to allow extra time and additional cash for the connections to the stations.
Some buses have air-conditioning – but does it always work? The same applies to the WiFi.
We enjoy our brief lunch stops and the chance to try the local food en route. By contrast, SGR food is boring in its bland international style.
The bus has a few brief comfort break stops – a chance for smokers to step out.
You can choose your seats when you make your booking.
Ticket prices: MASH have seats ranging from 1,000 – 2,500 Kenya shillings ($10 to $25) according to the seat type. (2018)
Journey price = same as the ticket price. No extra costs.
Travel tips: how to book the SGR train AKA the Madaraka Express
The enquiry and booking process – online or in person
If you’re going straight to the last stop, choose the express train. The express journey time is 4 hours and 43 minutes. This runs in the afternoon, in both directions. The morning inter-county trains stop at Athi River, Emali, Kibwezi, Mtito Andei, Voi, Minsenyi, Mariakani. The inter-county journey time is 5 hours and 58 minutes.
Book early to avoid disappointment. Learn from our mistake! (We spent 25 hours on buses from Kampala to Mombasa – with just a half hour break between journeys – because we tried to book two days before departure when the train was already sold out).
You can book in person at the SGR stations but they are a long way out of town. Pay by cash in Kenya shillings or use MPesa. I have a reliable contact who can make all your train and bus reservations and payments.
Use your phone. Pay by MPesa (you’ll need a Safaricom Kenya SIM card to do this). If you want to book the SGR from outside Kenya, ask a tour operator to book your tickets or contact me.
“It ought to be plain how little you gain
by getting excited and vexed.
You’ll always be late for the previous train,
and always on time for the next.”
― Piet Hein
Click here to see the rates for the SGR train – or Madaraka Express – on the Kenya Railways web site. The web site also details fares between intermediate stations along the route.
If you want to choose your seats (and sit next to a friend or be by the window facing in the right direction), it may be better to book in person at a train station.
To make a booking or enquiry call + 254 (0)709 388888 / 0709907000 / 0728603581/2 or email info@krc.co.ke
Be at the station one hour before departure. There are multiple security checks and print your tickets at the station.
You can book up to 30 days in advance. (2018)
The Standard Gauge Railway station in Mombasa is in Miritini
To avoid Mombasa traffic, get on at the Mariakani stop. To do this you will need to get the slow (morning) train.
Three of us paid 700 KES for a tuk tuk from Fort Jesus to the SGR station. We had been quoted 1,500 KES for a car. (2018)
Trains depart from Mombasa twice daily. The morning inter-county train departs at 8.20 AM (arrives Nairobi 2.18 PM) and the afternoon express train leaves at 3.15 PM (and arrives Nairobi 8.14 PM). Tickets are on sale between 5:40 AM and 4 PM. Tickets can be purchased up to ten minutes before departure. (2018 info)
At Mombasa SGR there is a wide range of taxis, buses and matatus heading to Mombasa city and elsewhere. No need to book.
The Standard Gauge Railway station in Nairobi is in Syokimau, past the airport
Trains depart from Nairobi twice daily. The morning inter-county train departs at 8.20 AM (arrives Mombasa 2.18 PM) and the afternoon express train leaves at 2.35 PM (and arrives Nairobi 7.18 PM). 2018 info.
To get from central Nairobi to the SGR station, board the commuter train at Nairobi railway station. The fare is 50 bob (KES) between the two stations.
Would I recommend taking the SGR train?
I commend SGR for operating a reliable and affordable service. The infrastructure is excellent and the booking process easy but there needs to be more attention to the overall experience. Efficiency and cleanliness are important but the stations need water fountains, catering outlets and shops. (Not only is this useful for the passenger but it represents additional revenue streams for SGR – surely a no-brainer). SGR need to make Wi-Fi available at stations and on the train.
I had to hotspot from my Ugandan phone to order our cab.
“If I ran the railway”… I’d display information about the SGR project and its construction. Where is the history of the Uganda Railway? Where is the tourist information? Why not play some background music? Part of the travel experience is buying and reading a newspaper, finding something tasty to eat, learning something about the route and the destination, sharing photos and updates with friends online. People don’t only judge things by cost.
But was it exciting?
Did it live up to the hype?
Was there romance?
The boring issues of cost and logistics to one side, did the muzungu find the experience to be exciting?
Well yes, the novelty of the new experience made it worth the wait.
I can’t say the journey was romantic – unlike the Lunatic Express was. Everything about the SGR is too shiny and corporate.
For romantic interest, next time maybe I’ll just take a good book (or download a copy of Brief Encounter and daydream I’m there, underneath the clock, waiting …)
Have you been on the SGR train yet? How was it for you? Do tell.
If you enjoy train travel stories, my Lunatic Express story was an epic adventure.
For more views about the SGR / Madaraka Express, read East Africa tourism expert Prof. Dr. Wolfgang Thome’s blog ATC News.
We can’t wait for the day when we can catch the SGR train from Kampala to the coast for the week-end!
Kenya
The Muzungu’s top 10 reasons for visiting #MagicalKenya
The divine Karen Blixen Camp seen from the river. In the Mara North Conservancy, the Maasai work with lodge owners to conserve wildlife
I LOVE Kenya – for a hundred – THOUSAND – reasons – but let’s just start with ten …
- Kenya is the home of the classic African safari and the Big Five
- Kenya is a vast country of contrasting landscapes
- Kenya has 48 national parks, reserves, marine parks and private sanctuaries
- Kenyans are world-class leaders in wildlife conservation. Read Why Kenya’s ivory burning makes sense #worthmorealive
- Kenya has 400 mammal species and 1057 bird species, the most of any country in Africa
- The Great Migration passes through Kenya’s Maasai Mara
- Kenyans are proud of their 42 tribal cultures, who play a big and colourful part in welcoming tourists
- Kenya offers an unmatched range of beach holidays, think: sunbathing, snorkelling, scuba diving, SUP Stand Up Paddling, kitesurfing, sailing
- English is widely spoken throughout Kenya. Swahili is the official language
- The East Africa Tourist Visa makes travel to Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda even better value
Famous as the birthplace of the African Safari, you can never tire of Kenya’s limitless attractions for visitors and incredible diversity of landscapes and natural diversity.
Giraffes on the horizon. Photo Riz Jiwa rizjiwa@gmail.com
Kenya’s world-famous wildlife is exceptional by any standards, and is protected in 48 national parks, reserves, marine parks and private sanctuaries, although many say that it is outside Africa’s national parks that the majority of wildlife still resides (meaning those animals need greater protection too).
The ‘Sleeping Warrior’ AKA Lord Delamere’s Nose is a stunning backdrop to views of flamingos from Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp
Have you visited a conservancy? I loved my three days at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp in the Soysambu Conservancy in Kenya’s Rift Valley.
Read 10 fascinating flamingo facts (I bet you didn’t know). Lake Elmenteita is a birder’s paradise! (And a superb place for horse riding; game drives to see eland, Rothschild’s giraffes and leopard; the lakeshore breakfast among flamingos and pelicans was unforgettable too!)
Hot air ballooning safari: the sun rises over the Maasai Mara, Kenya – the GoPro view! from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.
Kenya offers visitors an infinite array of authentic wildlife experiences, on land, on the ocean, and even from the air!
Great Migration, Maasai Mara, Hot Air Balloon Safaris. Photo Riz Jiwa rizjiwa@gmail.com
Kenya is most famous for the million and a half Wildebeest (and other four-legged friends) that, twice yearly, traverse the Maasai Mara in the epic migration.
Cheetah with three cubs, Maasai Mara safari, Kenya from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.
Lesser-known ecotourism attractions include the Marine Big Five: sea turtles, dolphins, whales, whale sharks and billfish.
Hawksbill Turtles. Photo Turtle Bay Dive Centre Watamu
Did you know you can now experience the Twin Migration – uniquely – in Kenya? Watch the migration in the Mara and watch whales migrate along the coast too! Read all about whale watching trips from Watamu.
The highest point is the snowcapped peak of Mount Kenya, the intersection of the Equator and the Great Rift Valley.
Kenya is a geographer and naturalist’s dream: a country the size of France and Spain combined, featuring mountains, extinct volcanoes, soda lakes, Equatorial rainforest, alpine glaciers and arid deserts.
On the Indian Ocean coast, the white sandy beaches of Watamu, Malindi, Lamu and Mombasa, and the Swahili coast’s blend of African and Arab cultures, add an extra dimension to this must-visit country. Read 17 must-try experiences in Mombasa. 
The snorkeling in Watamu is out of this world. Diary of a Muzungu on the beach at Watamu, Kenya
TripAdvisor Winner 2015: Medina Palms’ clients voted this resort the BEST of all hotels, lodges and establishments across the whole country. A series of infinity pools lead down to the white powder sand beach
With eight swimming pools cascading down to the Indian Ocean, Swahili Beach Resort in Diani is high on my list of places for ‘a proper holiday.’🌴🍹🌊🥥👙⛱️
Read Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
The 5 star Swahili Beach Resort in Diani – SWOON! Click on the image above to read my blog and view a gallery of this resort’s amazing architecture and interiors
A technicolor start to our morning’s sightseeing in Mombasa. Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple, Haile Selassie Avenue
When it comes to food, I can’t think of any better combination than the Kenyan coast combination of fresh seafood and spices: crab samosas, fresh fish and lobster, with a Swahili twist (washed down with an ice-cold Tusker beer, of course!)
Enjoying a cold Tusker at the Bomas, Nairobi
Kenya is famous for her colourful human culture, notably the Maasai, the Samburu and the Turkana, just three of the country’s 42 tribes.
Kenya’s rich heritage can be traced back a staggering 4.5 million years. Didn’t we all come from Africa once?
Walking to school through Uhuru Gardens, Central Business District, Nairobi. In November, the Jacaranda trees are in full and glorious blossom
I love Nairobi more every visit. The streets are becoming more familiar to me now: I LOVE this incredible video!
Nairobi- A Timelapse Portrait from xixo collective on Vimeo.
The capital Nairobi is the only African city with a national park in its centre. Even if you don’t get a chance to leave the city perimeter, it’s still possible to go on a game drive if you are visiting Nairobi. Read my blog all about Nairobi National Park: the muzungu’s first city safari!
If you’ve seen the incongruous-looking photographs of wildlife in front of a modern urban background, then you may know I’m talking about Nairobi National Park (which is actually IN Kenya’s capital, making it very accessible for weekend or business visitors).
I recently stayed at the 5 star Nairobi Serena Hotel, conveniently situated on a quiet and leafy corner of the Central Business District. The hotel has been totally refurbished and offers a complimentary Architectural, Cultural and Conservation to guests. The creativity is quite mind-blowing! If you’re a fan of African history and culture, the Murumbi Gallery and Heritage House, you must read How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel.
Admire the fabulous wood carvings in the Bambara Lounge, Nairobi Serena Hotel on the Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour
This delicate brass box derives from West Africa. Isn’t it gorgeous? Click on the images to see more artefacts you can see on the Nairobi Serena’s Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour
Did you know…? The East Africa Tourist Visa makes it easier and cheaper to combine a trip to Kenya with a visit to Uganda and Rwanda. Read the Muzungu’s definitive guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa here.
I’ve only just skimmed the surface of what Kenya has to offer as a tourism destination but the country has blown my tiny little mind, I can tell you!
View from the Lunatic Express train from Nairobi to Mombasa
If you are travelling between Kampala to Nairobi, you might enjoy reading my cross-border bus journeys.
Travelling between Nairobi and the Mombasa coast? The photo above was taken on the Lunatic Express train – a real highlight of my travels across East Africa. It’s been replaced by the rather less romantic – but infinitely more reliable – Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) train. Read my detailed comparison between the bus and the train journey between Nairobi and Mombasa here in Brief encounter – of romance and railways.
Keep reading Diary of a Muzungu for more travel tips and adventures from across Kenya and East Africa.
Nairobi National Park. The muzungu’s first city safari!
A city safari in Nairobi National Park. An early morning game drive to match any safari in the bush!
It seemed weird to leave our four-star city hotel and drive through commuter traffic for an early morning safari. Usually, it’s a question of stumbling out of a tent into the Bush… [Note to self: next time, don’t miss the safari vehicle when it leaves the hotel!] If you’ve seen the incongruous-looking photographs of wildlife in front of a modern urban background, then you may know I’m talking about Nairobi National Park (which is actually in Kenya’s capital, making it very accessible for weekend or business visitors).
A flight with Safarilink shows the proximity of Nairobi National Park to Kenya’s capital
Despite many wonderful safari experiences in Uganda, notably while working for the Uganda Conservation Foundation, this was my first safari in Nairobi National Park and my first time to see White Rhino, Thomson’s Gazelle, Wildebeest, Eland, Ostrich and Reticulated Giraffe in the wild. (Uganda has Eland but they are very shy, and Ostrich are in the remote northeastern park of Kidepo).
Nairobi National Park is a pocket-handkerchief-sized 117 km² and the animal diversity is pretty amazing! The park is home to to 100s of species – elephant being one of the few that are missing. You’ll have to go to Maasai Mara, Amboseli or Tsavo – among many other conservancies and National Parks – to see elephants.
Aerial view of Nairobi National Park in the rain
Immediately we entered the park, there were the familiar smells of damp vegetation and animal manure. It smells like a National Park, it sounds like a National Park, and the variety of wildlife we encountered was soon to demonstrate that we really were in a National Park, despite it being surrounded on three sides by human development. Small aircraft flying overhead gave the Park another dimension. (You might say Nairobi National Park is boxed in from the air too).
‘Pemba’ the Swahili for warthog, Nairobi National Park. Photo Kenya Tourist Board / Magical Kenya
We passed the site where the Kenya Wildlife Service made history and burned the stockpile of confiscated elephant ivory. Kenya has taken bold steps to tackle poaching. It is well documented that the sale of legally gotten ivory (through the natural death of an elephant, for example) has stimulated unprecedented demand for ivory in China and fuelled the catastrophic levels of ivory poaching across Africa.
“If no elephant ever complained about the weight of their tusks, why take them off?” #WorthMoreAlive Kenya Wildlife Service
Click on this image to read why “Why it makes sense to burn #elephant and #rhino #ivory stockpiles…” #worthmorealive
The destruction of ivory, sometimes by burning, but these days by crushing, is the only answer. The temptation to steal confiscated ivory (valued at several thousand US dollars per kilo) is too much for many, and the penalties for being caught not harsh enough.
Early morning, our driver Anthony communicated in Kiswahili by radio with the other drivers in our safari convoy and announced that another driver had just spotted a pride of eleven lions ahead of us. (You can imagine our excitement!) We paused above a wooded ravine but it seemed the big cats had gone to cover. They were (understandably) not in a rush to come out and be gawped at by us lot!
RIP Mohawk the lion, seen here in his natural habitat: the sad reality is that lions which leave the safety of Nairobi National Park will be lost in the surrounding city and killed. Photo Will Knocker
Instead of seeing lions, we were rewarded with seeing three White Rhino.
Nairobi National Park has a population of 27 White Rhino. It was wonderful to see them in the wild! (To date, I’ve only seen White Rhino at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary in Uganda. Uganda’s own population of Black and White Rhino are extinct).
Look carefully and you will spot three of Nairobi National Park’s white rhinos !
[Note to self: wear something warm if you’re going on an early morning game drive when the safari vehicle pop-up roof is open!]
An ostrich and a wildebeest. Ostrich are much bigger than I had imagined them to be. Uglier too! We saw five of these big birds in Nairobi National Park
Did you know… a group of zebras are called a DAZZLE? Common zebra grazed one side of the dirt track
My most memorable moment of our Nairobi safari was watching the single, elegant giraffe walking slowly down the track towards us
It peered at us through the open roof as it brushed the side of the van. With gasps of excitement as the giraffe walked within inches of us, not one of us professional travel writers, bloggers and photographers managed to take a decent photograph!
[Note to self: do read the manual before you use your new camera for the first time!]
Wildlife is under immense pressure by human encroachment. Nowhere demonstrates this better than Nairobi National Park: human development on three sides of the park; planes flying overhead; the need to install water systems for the wildlife because the human populations are preventing water reaching the park. Controversially, infrastructure projects such as the Standard Gauge Railway have also been designed to go through the park. I’m a big fan of train travel – as you may remember from my trip on the Lunatic Express from Nairobi to Mombasa but I believe that one day Kenyans will regret the decision to let the train route go through the park (many are bitterly against it). Why can’t the SGR and the bypass be rerouted around the outside of the park? Why can’t underpasses be built? The deal has been done. We just pray disturbance of animals is kept to a minimum.
Have you been on safari in Nairobi National Park?
I really enjoyed our early morning game drive and saw many species I had never seen before. A safari in Nairobi National Park is a fantastic day out if you have limited time in the capital. It’s a delightful way for people who live in Nairobi to (re)connect with their incredible natural heritage too.
Vervet Monkey waiting for me to put something in the bin…. so he can quickly remove it again! Near the hippo pools, Nairobi National Park
Where to find more info on safaris in Nairobi National Park
I think that if I lived in Nairobi, I would volunteer with Friends of Nairobi National Park. Check out their web site, plus the management’s own Nairobi National Park website and the Kenya Wildlife Service’s Nairobi National Park and Nairobi Safari Walk pages.
Wildlife fans will have to visit the Nairobi Animal Orphanage too! (It’s located in Nairobi National Park so you can visit after your game drive).
Feeding the cheetahs at Nairobi Animal Orphanage. PHOTO Nairobi Animal Orphanage
MIAW! Bottle-feeding a lion cub at Nairobi Animal Orphanage. PHOTO Nairobi Animal Orphanage
If you enjoyed my blog about Nairobi National Park, feel free to share it!
Have you read The Muzungu’s top 10 reasons for visiting #MagicalKenya?
Where to travel in East Africa: the muzungu’s recommendations
Diary of a Muzungu’s recommendations for Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda
Happy New Year, dear Diary reader! Thanks for your support.
Are you thinking about where the next 12 months will take you? Here are some of my favourite places …
UGANDA – Kampala “KLA”- coffee, culture and chimpanzees!
Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).
There are many Kampala tours; uniquely, the Kampala Dark Day Tour is the creation of a criminologist! Namugongo Martyrs Shrine and Wamala Tombs are two of the tour’s most fascinating historical stops (blogs in draft folder!)
Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, Lake Victoria
Our closest relative is bound to inspire you! Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary is perfect for a family day out, for camping with friends or as a romantic overnight getaway. It is internationally reknown for its high standards of primate care.
The whole family LOVED Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary!
Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, near Kisoro
Be the first of your friends to track the gorillas of Mgahinga! The little-visited but engaging gorilla family has now been resident for three years, so sightings are virtually guaranteed. Alternatively, track the rare golden monkeys, hike one of the Virunga’s three volcanoes or interact with the Batwa tribe who inhabited the forests for 60,000 years. Their story is unique. For all the info you need to plan your trip to one my favourite parts of Uganda, read Can you name the distant volcanoes of Mgahinga?. Fly with Aerolink from Entebbe to Kisoro for a real treat!
Promoting tourism across Uganda: Arua and West Nile
Enthusiasm for tourism in Uganda is at an all time high across the country. I loved visiting Gerald Iga’s hometown of Arua. Read what I discovered in “10 little-known things to do in Arua & West Nile.”
Birdwatching – anywhere and everywhere in Uganda!
Sunbird Hill, next to Kibale Forest, is named for its 14 sunbird species (I’m sure the birding experts will find more!)
Ornithologist Malcolm Wilson is planning his next bird ringing expeditions when he will be ringing at Sunbird Hill and other popular Ugandan birding locations. Read Malcolm’s blog of a previous bird ringing trip to Sunbird Hill.
KENYA – Nairobi nightlife, rail journeys & the coast
Come, we go! The East Africa Tourist Visa & Interstate Pass make travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda cheaper for tourists and expats + easier for nationals. Read my blog and go!
Did you know…? In 2017 the ‘Lunatic Express’ train from Nairobi to Mombasa was replaced by new trains on a new track. This gives you two opportunities: to ride the old-fashioned trains for the last time and, after Easter, enjoy the far quicker four-hour journey to the coast.
Tawi Lodge was named Ecotourism Kenya’s Eco-Warrior Facility of the Year. The award-winning conservancy has arguably the best views of (Tanzania’s) Mount Kilimanjaro.
Have you visited the muzungu’s Kenya travel page?
RWANDA: Nyungwe Forest, Rwanda
Kampala to Nyungwe by road: 14 hours by bus + 3 hours by matatu minibus + hmmm… a bit longer on a smaller bus + half an hour ride on a boda boda through the dark forest + hitch hiking is not everyone’s dream journey but Jules and I LOVED it! Nyungwe Forest’s canopy walk and chimp tracking are both highly recommended.
Have you visited the muzungu’s Rwanda travel page ?
Nyungwe Forest is in a remote corner of East Africa that borders Burundi and the DRC.
And just for laughs, here are a few highlights that you may have missed:
… laughing & (crying?) at another of the muzungu’s dating disasters
… more dramas at the airport!
… stalking celebrities! I love #SityaLoss – still my favourite dance video!
DID YOU KNOW…? Daily updates, Uganda travel advice and random photos come thick and fast on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page or follow me @CharlieBeau on Twitter.
It’s going to be a busy year for Diary of a Muzungu – where will you be traveling to? Do keep in touch!
Kenya’s dazzling marine life: where to snorkel in Watamu
The Indian Ocean beckons…
Seventh Heaven isn’t up in the sky, it’s here in the warm Indian Ocean waters of Watamu, Kenya, an hour and a half drive’s north of Mombasa. This is the Muzungu’s guide on where to snorkel in Watamu. If you think Kenya’s wildlife is just about the Big Five, then think again. Even now, conservationists are still exploring and discovering new species in Kenya’s ocean, of dolphins and whales, and the tiniest prettiest little creatures: nudibranchs. Read on, Kenya’s marine life will amaze you…
What a treat! Today I’m being taken on a snorkeling safari by a zoologist and a marine biologist.
At Hemingway’s Watamu I’m taken aback when a handsome (virtually) naked man jumps out of his car to greet me and Steve from the Watamu Marine Association. What a welcome! (I try not to stare). Our zoologist and professional snorkeling guide Richard is simply dressed in swimming shorts, ready for the beach. Life in Kampala has made me a total townie.
The weather is intensely hot. We have arrived during a heatwave, sweating all the way from Nairobi to Mombasa on the legendary Lunatic Express train.
The swim out to the main snorkeling area of The Larder is not quick! I am following two seasoned marine experts, read ‘strong swimmers,’ who are effortlessly doing front crawl for 100 metres. I am honoured but humbled too. (Will I keep up with them? I ask myself as they plough ahead of me).
The Larder gets its name from ‘the old days’ when the plentiful fish attracted spear fishing for food. Spear fishing is no longer allowed. Watamu Marine Park and Reserve is a nationally protected area; now the only things we take are memories and photos.
The three of us are never more than 20 metres apart. I’m incredibly lucky to have these two experts guide me around the reef and point out the new fish. (It is also quite fun to spot new fish on my own!)
I find myself in an open sandy area of the ocean, fringed by long dark seagrass. There is little else to see until … a sudden, large movement along the sandy edge of the sea grass: A SHARK! It’s a small one, around a metre long. No sooner have I spotted it, than it wiggles off into the distance. Richard and Steve later confirm that I have seen a Black-tipped Reef Shark.
According to the Coral Reef Fishes book, the Black-tipped Reef Shark “lives on reef flats and margins. They can measure up to 180 cm long. It is easily frightened but known to mistakenly bite waders’ feet.” Oo er….
Above the water, Richard shouts “Let’s look here. Sometimes we see turtles here.”
When Steve and Jane first arrived in Watamu, they worked for Watamu Turtle Watch. I haven’t seen any turtles yet on this trip. No worries there, I know I will revisit Watamu!
We see a number of rays, disc-shaped flat fish, half submerged in the sand. As we approach, their panic throws up a flurry of sand and they speed off into the distance. When we see them from the surface of the water, they appear pale brown. When I dive down for a closer look, I see why they are called Blue-spotted Ribbontail Ray.
Steve points to a Batfish, an elegant tall fish, shaped like a human hand. Something about its demeanour makes it look very serious.
We see Porcupine fish, Whitespotted puffer and Trevallys. You don’t need to know the names of every fish you see though. Just watching these gorgeous creatures, and enjoying the play of colour, movement and light is fascinating. It’s a kind of meditation.
It’s the tiny wrasses and nudibranchs that are the most colourful. The splendid vibrant little wrasse fish weave between the larger fish, and in and out of small crevices and rocks. The sunlit water comes to life with their colour and movement. Many of these fish appear familiar to me. They are the kind that were once popular in British doctors’ waiting rooms! (Imagine the glum life that awaits the poor fish that is plucked out of the tropical ocean and exported to a sanitized life in an aquarium. Many don’t even last the journey from sea to aquariam).
The stunningly beautiful – and tiny – Nudibranch are in a world part! Photos thanks to Turtle Bay Dive Centre, Watamu.
We pause at the surface of the water for a moment and Richard removes his breathing tube to explain that The Larder is known as a cleaning station. “Fish come from miles around to this particular section of the reef. Here the Cleaner Wrasse remove (and eat) the parasites from larger fish.”
The three of us pause at the overhang of some coral rock. Richard dives down and points. I realise he must be pointing at something new but I can’t see it. He tells me he can just spot the fish’s dorsal fin sticking out of the seaweed. (All I can see is something that looks a bit like a dog-eaten credit card!) It is a pale olive green with vibrant white edging, sitting perfectly still.
I dive down for a closer look. It takes me several attempts before I realise that the ‘dog-eaten credit card’ is actually ‘the spot of the day’! Richard seems quite excited when we talk about it later. It turns out that it is a Leaf Scorpionfish (Triacanthus taeniatus).
Watamu Marine Park and Reserve once had a dazzling array of colourful corals. The fish are evidence of that. You can still see a wide variety of coral shapes and structures but, for the most part, their colour has faded. I glimpse small patches of pink, orange and yellow. It was the El Niño of 1997-98 that devastated the majority of the corals here. In places you can even see the scorch marks of bleaching made by the abnormally high ocean surface temperatures.
Will the coral ever recover?
For the last three years, conservation organisations A Rocha Kenya and Kenya Wildlife Service have been carrying out research into the health of the coral. They have seen good recovery of the coral in a number of areas in Watamu Marine National Park. However, the coral will take decades to recover to its former splendour. There is hope for the future but climate change is always a looming threat.
Back on our snorkeling safari… we swim back to land after what is (unbelievably) one and a half hours snorkeling. I’ve been so caught up in the whole experience, I’ve completely lost the concept of time. Only my shriveled ‘prune-like’ fingertips are the tell-tale sign of my being in the sea for a long time.
In the shallows, approaching the beach, I see a long thin stretch of colour in a small sandy crevice. Is it a fish or is it a bit of plastic? As I watch, it turns in a circle, dives in the hole and pokes its head out of the front. It waves its tiny teeth menacingly at me in a characteristic Moray Eel fashion. It has a pale body, with pale brown / pink freckles on it and tiny yellow freckles on its face. Is it a Ribbon Eel? Was it a Sharptail Eel?
Watamu’s beach is a wonder in itself. It is whiter than white. The sand is softer than talcum powder. During the day it is burning hot under your feet too!
Keeping the beach clean requires teamwork. The Watamu Marine Association has devised a comprehensive beach clean-up and recycling programme which is a win-win for the whole community.
Local people are employed to keep the beach clean. The plastic rubbish is recycled at the award-winning recycling centre. From there, some fabulously innovative recycled plastic products are made for tourists to buy in local lodges and hotels. (Needless to say, anyone who visits the beach is asked to take their rubbish home with them as well!)
Top tips for snorkelling and scuba diving in Watamu
The best time of day for snorkeling: figure out the tides first. The best time to snorkel is when the tide is halfway out.
When the tide is out, there may not be enough water to snorkel. When the tide is in, you will be too far above the reef to see the fish beneath them. As the tide comes in, the water can be cloudy as it’s full of sand.
Think about how far you have to walk or swim before you reach the most interesting part of the reef. Do you have to get a boat there?
The fee to snorkel or scuba dive in Watamu Marine Park and Reserve is 150 KES (Kenyans); 350 KES (all other East Africans citizens); $20/15 (non-residents / tourists adult and child). This fee is payable daily to the Kenya Wildlife Service.
Buy or borrow a copy of Myers and Lieske’s “Coral Reef Fishes Princeton Pocket Guide.” I need to relearn the body parts of a fish (it will make it easier to explain to your guide what you have seen and what you are asking for help in identifying).
- Don’t forget to apply high factor sunscreen. It’s a good idea to wear a T-shirt and even a scarf to protect the back of your neck (or your bald head, Steve!) You can easily lose track of time and not feel the hot sun – until you’re writhing in pain from sunburn a few hours later!
- Do not touch the coral, ever. Simply touching it can damage it. Coral takes many years to grow. If you’re a snorkeling novice, don’t wear fins.
- Go snorkeling and scuba diving with a knowledgeable local guide.
- I didn’t see dolphins but I did on a previous trip with the Watamu Marine Association!
Special thanks to Esther Steiger for the beautiful fish photos.
- Good practice guidelines for snorkeling, courtesy of Watamu Marine Association
- Your safety and protection of the marine environment should be your number one consideration. Keep your head in the water and feet at the surface at all times when you are in the coral areas.
- Fins can be very destructive to the coral. Snorkel without fins unless the water is deep and you are covering a large distance.
- Don’t step on the coral. This will kill it. Stepping on coral can also lead to nasty cuts. Bacteria and algae living in the coral can easily enter wounds.
- Do not touch, damage or remove coral. It is a fragile living organism, which takes many years to form. The coral is also host to many rare and endangered vertebrate and invertebrate species.
- Never touch, chase or harass the wildlife or marine life.
- It is illegal to remove shells, starfish or any other sea-flora and fauna, as it disrupts the ecosystem. Empty shells provide homes for hermit crabs and some fishes. Leave them in the ocean.
- Hand feeding of fish is discouraged. Certain species are dangerous; it also disrupts natural feeding patterns.
This is the Muzungu’s first sub-aqua blog. On land, I carry a pen and notebook – the ubiquitous ‘diary,’ my voice recorder, camera, binoculars and guidebooks … Underwater, there is no equipment, it’s just me. I try hard to remember everything I’m seeing. I want to take in the different shapes and colours, the sizes of the silver fish, the numbers of yellow fish. It is also liberating too. I am just there to enjoy the moment in all its vibrancy.
Being among the reef fish brings back many happy family memories. I can never be in the sea without thinking of my sister and the hours, days and weeks we have shared as kids, face down in the water, looking, pointing and diving down for a closer look.
Underwater, even only half submerged, we mostly lose the sense of sound. It’s a pleasure to disconnect from the world and immerse myself in an alternative one. I realize what a leveler this is for my deaf sister. While snorkeling or diving, we experience the same world.
I think how one day we must come snorkelling and scuba-diving here together in Watamu…
Have you been snorkeling in Watamu? Scuba diving, Stand Up Paddling, dolphin watching, whale watching, bird watching, sunset cruises on a dhow on Mida Creek, kitesurfing and sundowners at the Crab Shack are just some of the fab range of activities on offer!
Watch this short clip “Watamu Kenya Naturally, A Community Welcomes You”and imagine yourself in Watamu…
Mida Creek sunset, Watamu. A birding cruise in a dugout canoe on Mida Creek is highly recommended. If you’re lucky you may spot a flamingo!
The Crab Shack at Dabaso Mida Creek is a ten-minute drive from Watamu’s hotels and resorts – and a must-visit evening out! This enchanting and low-key local restaurant is set in the futuristic-looking environment of a mangrove swamp. A walk along the boardwalk reveals the large wooden crates in which small young crabs are fattened up for the best crab samosas you’ll ever taste! The menu is very simple – and all the better for it.
A sundowner – with the obligatory Tusker – should be served cold with some hot fried coconut, grilled octopus and oysters. All proceeds from the Crab Shack go to the community.
Read more about the Watamu Marine Association and keep up-to-date with new marine activities, and updates on the migration of dolphins and whales. Follow the Watamu Marine Association on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
Have you been to Watamu yet? If not, why not? 😉
More ‘lunatic’ than ‘express’ – a train ride through history
Have you travelled on the Lunatic Express?
This is the muzungu’s personal account of the ‘Lunatic Express’ train journey from Nairobi to Mombasa, Kenya, an epic adventure bar none! Read all about East Africa’s railway history, Tsavo’s man-eating lions and the muzungu’s train survival tips.
- – No. of KM journey: 530
- – No. of Kenyan shillings for 2nd class ticket: 3,385 (USD 33)
- – No. of hours delay leaving Nairobi Railway Station: 10
- – No. of hours on train journey (forecast): 13
- – No. of hours on train journey (actual): 23
- – No. of degrees Celsius on the train: 40+
- – No. of beers consumed: not enough
- – No. of National Parks traversed for free: 2
- – No. of elephants seen on Tsavo safari: 3
The name should have been warning enough… yet, behind every travel nightmare is the makings of a good travel blog. (Oh, the situations the muzungu gets herself into in the search for a good story!)
We travelled in the light of the Full Moon or should I say: we travelled under the effects of the full moon. Lunacy indeed!
What made the Muzungu want to embark on this notorious train journey?
My ride on Kampala’s passenger train service made me want to discover more of East Africa’s rail network, and its history.
Daydreaming about my next train adventure gave me a reason to plan a trip to Kenya’s coast: the first leg from Kampala to Nairobi was by bus (although once upon a time, you could do the whole trip by train). I knew that one day passengers would again be able to cross East Africa by train but before that happened, I wanted to experience the original Lunatic Express train – so I could compare it with the new one. Of romance and railways is my follow-up story, written 2018, and compares the Lunatic Express, the bus and the Standard Gauge Railway! But first…
What is the Lunatic* Express?
Although the entire 660 mile (just over 1000 km) length of the Uganda Railway actually runs through Kenya – from Mombasa to Kisumu on the Kenyan shores of Lake Victoria – the railway derives its name from its final destination: Uganda. Sources states that the purpose of the railway was “to protect British colonial interests from the Germans.” The fact that the Uganda Railway opened up trade across Uganda and Kenya was simply a ‘by the way.’
Charles Miller came up with the term ‘Lunatic Express’ in his 1971 book The Lunatic Express: An Entertainment in Imperialism to describe the challenges – and calamities – of the Uganda Railway’s construction, notably:
- – 2,500 (of 32,000 workmen) died during construction, mostly from disease
- – 28 Indian “coolies” (‘workers’ to you and me) were killed by the man-eating lions of Tsavo
- – 135 African laborers were also killed by said Tsavo man-eaters. It’s interesting that 28 is generally the number of people recorded as killed by lions. However, according to Ugandans at Heart / ‘EKB’ Ekitibwa Kya Buganda “the Africans were considered not important enough for an accurate count or record to be kept.” The actual toll of all men killed by lions must therefore be 163+ /- [scroll down for more about those pesky pussy cats…]
- Very demanding terrain
- Lack of water / drought
- “Hostile natives” (hardly bloody surprising)
- Derailments and collisions
*A lunatic endeavour is something considered to be extremely foolish or eccentric. The word lunatic is derived from the Latin word luna, meaning moon. The Latin word lunaticus means “moon-struck” and a lunatic someone who is “affected with periodic insanity, dependent on the changes of the moon.”
How to book your tickets for the Lunatic Express
The start was very promising. The call to the booking office at Nairobi Railway Station confirmed that it would be cheaper for us to purchase tickets in Nairobi than to buy them in advance online. So far, so good …
Upon arrival at Nairobi Railway Station, the humourless security woman insisted I delete my photos of the front of the station. (Lord knows there must already be enough photos in circulation, what difference would mine make?)
The interior of Nairobi Railway Station is an exact replica of Kampala Railway Station, with all its original features in place. In Nairobi however, someone has tried to give the place a modern facelift, circling the century-old fittings with bright gaudy paint. Not a good look.
Generally, Nairobi Railway Station is in a shocking state of repair. (By contrast, the interiors and platforms of Kampala Railway Station remain in near perfect condition, having been closed to the public for 30 years).
We purchased our Lunatic Express tickets from the wonderfully helpful Evelyn and Elias. My friends opted for a two bunk first class compartment while I opted for second class. Our tickets cost 4,405 KES (approx 43 USD) first class and 3,385 KES (approx 33 USD) second class and included breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The train passes through 530 km (300 miles) of East Africa, from Kenya’s capital Nairobi to the Indian Ocean port of Mombasa. I was most looking forward to traversing Tsavo National Park (now split into East Tsavo and West Tsavo), most famous for the man-eating lions, as many unfortunates were to discover to their peril back in 1898.
The train was forecast to leave at 7 PM on Good Friday. As Evelyn took our booking, she asked for our phone numbers “for when (not if) there is a delay.” I didn’t think much about that; we just booked our tickets and went on our way.
The Lunatic Express: day of our departure
Keen to embark on my first train Safari, I decided to get to the railway station early – unusually for me: several hours early.
In the meantime, Evelyn called my friend Julia to advise of a delay. The train would not depart until 10 PM so we headed into town to kill time in a bar. Generous helpings of goat and ugali later, another phone call advised us: the Lunatic Express departure time was likely to be 11.30 pm or midnight. Needless to say, when we arrived at the station, there was no sign of the train. It had not arrived from Mombasa. A number of very annoyed bazungu tourists requested refunds.
Children were curled up asleep with their parents on hard wooden benches. In the sofa area – in total darkness, thanks to a power cut – a man at a tiny bar served people while holding a small torch. Inside the station was a retro lounge bar of a bygone era.
We were invited to board the train at 3 am. At 5 o’clock in the morning – 10 hours later than the advertised departure time – our train rumbled out of Nairobi Railway Station. The muzungu was curled up asleep in the top bunk of compartment B in coach 2326 by then.
I woke up on a moving train, crossing the savannah.
I had only slept four hours in two days but I was too excited to go back to sleep. What’s more, the compartment was quickly heating up (the weather in Nairobi had been roasting hot). I tried to pull down the window, but it refused to open more than a few inches.
A member of staff walked along the corridor outside my compartment and announced “breakfast will be ready soon.”
“Soon” turned out to be an hour or more later!
Our journey from Nairobi pushed us into a coastal heatwave. Rather than travel in the relative cool of the night, our late departure meant we traversed the 483 km in the heat of the day, our train absorbing every ray of the hot sun.
Kampala and Nairobi had been hotter than normal and I had been dreading the predicted heatwave at the Kenyan coast. However, after 23 hours in our mobile sauna, I felt thoroughly acclimatised!
“There really should be a swimming pool on the roof of the train,” Julia said.
“Don’t you think they should first switch on the ceiling fans, fix the air conditioning and make it possible for us to open the windows?!” I suggested.
Much like Nairobi Railway Station, the Lunatic Express train is in a state of total neglect. There were few locks on the toilet doors, none on compartments (except when inside) and just two power sockets per carriage.
Yet there were glimpses of the train’s former splendour. Although from the outside, the Lunatic Express is a non-descript modern train, the interior features wooden benches, some 1930s-style fittings, cup holders and other metal fittings engraved with Rft Valley Railway, faded old posters and the occasional piece of original silver tableware.
My favourite piece of tableware was the metal butter dish. I loved its air of faded opulence. Julia removed the lid to reveal a messy dollop of cheap Blue Band margarine. Humph!
Travel on the Lunatic Express is not a gourmet experience
These days, everything about the Lunatic Express is cheap (including the train tickets, if I’m honest). But like they say: “you get what you pay for” and our three meals were basic and not particularly appetising. Dinner was simply a second serving of lunch.
Cooked breakfast (eggs, sausages and baked beans) included cheap sliced white sugary bread (toasted one side only! To save time? To save money?) The weak-tasting coffee was of the instant variety (in Kenya? In one of the world’s major coffee producing countries?) But ignore that: I loved the way the waiters expertly poured our hot beverages from beautiful old tea and coffeepots, while the train rumbled along.
From the train windows, we watched the landscape change as we passed through open countryside, mile after mile, kilometre after kilometre.
We saw the occasional human: a young girl collecting firewood, a man tending a flock of goats and cows.
As we rattled through one of the numerous derelict railway stations and outposts, I observed a woman and baby watching us. People approached our slowly-moving train. A handful of children shouted at us for money.
A safari through Tsavo – and no park fees to pay!
A real draw for me was the chance to experience a train safari – and I was not disappointed.
Tsavo is Kenya’s largest national park and covers nearly 22,000 sq km. It is one of the world’s largest. The construction of the railway split the park into two: Tsavo East National Park and Tsavo West National Park.
Crossing Tsavo, beyond a new viaduct, everyone moved to one side of the train carriage to watch elephants. I also spotted baboons and Thomson’s Gazelles.
We moved too quickly to identify many birds but I couldn’t miss a vibrant Lilac-breasted Roller, and larger bird species like Marabou Storks, and a Chanting Grey Goshawk perched on the roof of a derelict railway building next to the track.
Two children shouted that they had “seen a lion lying in the grass.” Their mother and I exchanged looks of doubt and held back our sniggers.
The story of Tsavo’s man-eating lions is gripping! Keep reading…
How apt. By the light of the Full Moon, the Lunatic Express arrived in Mombasa.
As we sensed our journey coming to an end, Julia and I got a new lease of life. (Or was that the half bottle of vodka in my bag?) We bounced along the train corridor, to and from the buffet car, gently thrown left and right; it was like being on a ship.
I had lost my concept of time… one staff member said we were an hour from Mombasa; another estimated two and a half hours. Everyone – staff included – moped around listlessly in the heat. Few people had phone battery left (for much of the journey there was no phone network anyway).
The shadows of palm tress silhouetted against the moonlit sky waved us “karibu” – WELCOME into the Indian Ocean port of Mombasa.
The marathon endurance trip was finally behind us.
Several very sweaty hours and a few cold beers later, the Lunatic Express arrived at the coast. The advertised 13 hour journey was actually a 43 hour adventure from start to finish.
How to ride a tuk tuk
Thanks to the brilliant Jane Spilsbury at the Watamu Marine Association, we had a booking at Regency Park Hotel. We had a rough idea of how much to pay for a taxi from Mombasa station, thanks to RVR train staff member George, who organized our taxi. We’d bonded with our Norwegian train companions by this stage and shared the phone number of our hotel.
“Do you want to share a taxi with us?” I suggested.
“I’m not sure there will be enough room, will there?” One asked. We were five people with five sets of luggage.
“Let’s see,” I said, “we can try.”
Our lumbering great taxi driver was there on the platform to meet us. We walked towards his taxi … a tuk tuk!
We all laughed out loud. “I think we need another vehicle!” Someone said.
The giant taxi driver proceeded to pack all our bags and all five of us into his miniscule motor. How would our tall friend fit in? He shared the driver’s seat with him – one bum cheek each!
There may have been no red carpet at Mombasa, no fanfare of trumpets, yet we arrived at our hotel in style.
Parting thoughts
No-one can board the Lunatic Express train without seeing its potential and bemoaning the very poor facilities. Back in the day, this would have been a state-of-the-art train experience. All the facilities are there, including air conditioning and announcement system. There are also locks on toilet doors. (Sadly few of these work anymore). Few of the train windows open, even if the muzungu asks a strong man to assist her, and many of the window mosquito nets are torn.
Beyond that, we found the train to be clean enough (even if the bedding was patched in places). The staff were helpful, although there were no explanations for the train’s late arrival in Nairobi, late departure and even later arrival in Mombasa! At certain points our train was stuck moving behind a slow goods train. On other occasions, our train had to pull into sidings to let a goods train pass on the single track.
This train journey really could be a spectacular experience. Let’s hope it will be again when the new Standard Gauge Railway is complete and the rolling stock is upgraded.
For much of the length of the trip, we rolled parallel to the new railway line. Many sections appear to be complete; in other areas, it’s still a construction site.
At the time of writing (2016), the Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) network was set to expand to Uganda, South Sudan and Rwanda. In Uganda, it will comprise of three major routes with a total route length of 1,614km. The SGR will stretch to the DRC border.
End of the line for ‘Lunatic Express?’ Kenya begins multi-billion dollar railway.
How to survive the Lunatic Express! An essential packing list
- – A flexible itinerary
- – African concept of time!
- – GSOH good sense of humour 🙂
- – Toilet paper
- – Soap
- – Hand gel / wipes
- – Mosquito repellent
- – Earplugs
- – Playing cards or other non-electronic amusements – power sockets are hard to find
- – Rechargers / Smartphone power packs
- – A map of East Africa so you can trace your route
- – Snacks
- – Cold beers, sodas and water are available and not expensive.
- – An ice box
- – Strong liquor!
- – Cigarettes? Smokers opened a side door and sat on the steps as we moved slowly along
- – A fan
- – Kichoi (or sarong), flip-flops / sandals, shorts and T-shirts / vests.
- – A mirror! I did not see / use / even thinking of using a mirror on the train (as the photos probably tell!)
- – Contacts for a hotel in Mombasa “for when there is a delay.”
More survival tips for travelling the Lunatic Express
- – The Glory Hotel in Mombasa was recommended to us, but full, so we stayed at Regency Park Hotel. The staff were helpful and the breakfast was generous. Choose from rooms with fans or air conditioning). Pay 300 – 500 KES for a cab/tuk tuk from Mombasa Railway Station.
- – You may think you’re going to save one day by travelling overnight but if the train delays, you are likely to miss that important meeting, flight or even wedding! And if you don’t sleep very well, you will lose a day catching up on sleep as well. I’d say: only take the Lunatic Express train from Nairobi to Mombasa when you have two or three days to spare.
- – Although second class accommodation means four people share a compartment, it is bigger than the first class two-person compartment – and thus allows more air to circulate. Incredibly important if you’re travelling during a heatwave!
- – I later realized only a few passengers got off the train at Mombasa. They must have decided to sleep there until they were chucked off the train (and save renting a hotel room like we did).
- – Shower in the sink – cos there ain’t nothing else!
- – Get to know your travel companions right away. You will surely end up interacting at some point on the journey, so leave behind your sensibilities and connect with them early on. Remember: what happens on the train stays on the train! 😉
Despite the lack of communication, zero explanation and no apology for the delays, we thoroughly enjoyed our adventure on the Lunatic Express train to Mombasa. We maintained our sense of humour throughout!
Thanks to the ever smiling George. He received every complaint with a big smile and ran up and down the train all day and night trying to keep everyone happy.
Are you interested in the history of East Africa’s railways?
Nairobi is the biggest city in East Africa. It is immense.
It’s incredible to believe that Nairobi sprang up around the railway, just a little over 100 years ago. From my account of today’s rundown Lunatic Express service, you might dismiss the railways in East Africa – but history tells a very different story.
If you are interested in history, I highly recommend these articles:
Following the line of Kenya’s development is as easy as following the development of railway lines through the country.
Why did so many railway workers get killed by lions?
“The Man-Eaters of Tsavo and other East African Adventures” recalls the nine month period of terror during 1898 when over 100 men were killed by two man-eating lions. This book made British engineer Lieutenant Colonel J. H. Patterson, D.S.O. a celebrity.
“Night after night, workers disappeared in ones and twos…” and an American hunter was called in…
Arriving in the continent he has dreamed of forever, Patterson meets his project. There are problems with it: competing French and German rivals, ethnic hatred among the crews and, on Patterson’s first day there, a worker is attacked by a lion. He goes to “sort it out” by shooting the beast with one shot; gaining the admiration of his crews, lifting spirits, adding motivation to complete the bridge, and unleashing a nightmare.
Only weeks after the shooting the camp is suddenly besieged by a pair of giant man-eating lions. Their first “kill” is Mahina (Henry Cele), considered the strongest man in the camp. This serves to unnerve every man on the project, including Indian rabble-rouser Abdullah, who doesn’t like Patterson from the start. Nerves jangle and fray as the lions repeatedly and relentlessly attack and attack and attack! They strike under the cover of night AND during the heat of day; They kill not for hunger, not for sport, but simply because they like it. Men are dragged from their beds and mauled to death in the tall grasses; the hospital becomes a blood-bathe; Laborers aren’t safe as the beasts leap out and snatch them from their work. Everything is falling apart and Patterson is at his wit’s end as Beaumont arrives to make matters worse. And still the lions attack and attack and attack.
Enter Big Game Hunter Charles Remington who is as determined to destroy the lions as the lions seem determined to eat every man in camp.
From a review of The Ghost and the Darkness, a 1996 Oscar-winning film, staring Val Kilmer and Michael Douglas.
Have you traveled on the ‘Lunatic Express’ train from Nairobi to Mombasa?
Writing about these journeys prompts other people to share their experiences.
“I took the train in 1982 when I was a student. I travelled down to the coast with my fishing rods. I didn’t get a (sleeping) compartment. I threw my fishing rods in the overhead bag rack, climbed up and slept there for the whole journey, from Nairobi to Mombasa.”
Richard ‘Bug’ from Watamu
That’s an uncomfortable way to spend 12+ hours, believe me!
Once upon a time, the train ran all the way from Kampala through Nairobi on to Mombasa.
Nairobi was very different in those days. Even before the train reached Nairobi airport, you were in the bush. There were first-class compartments and a first-class dining car.
Back in the day, the train drivers were all Sikhs.
Mike from Kampala (It all sounded pretty fabulous!)
What are your train travel tips? And what are your memories of the Lunatic Express during its heyday?
If you’ve enjoyed this article, please share it! And if you enjoy my East African travel stories, sign up to the Muzungu’s occasional newsletter
Why Kenya’s ivory burning makes sense #worthmorealive
The ivory burning in Nairobi National Park, Kenya and what it means.
This weekend sees a historic conservation event: the burning of the biggest ever number of elephant tusks and rhino horn.
This week Uganda stands shoulder to shoulder with our conservation and tourism friends and colleagues across Africa who are meeting in Kenya to address the ivory poaching crisis.
Conservation and tourism are inextricably linked. Protecting elephant, rhino, gorillas and other animals means we are protecting jobs; we are providing a sustainable income, and access to education, to remote communities. Poaching for ivory or bushmeat may provide a few shillings or dollars to poachers cum subsistence farmers but the long-term benefits of ecotourism – through the long-term protection and survival of key species – are simply worth far more.
This is why we say elephants, rhinos – and even gorillas, chimpanzees and other animals – are worth more alive.
The drivers for poaching, the international networks that fund wildlife crime are the same, regardless of the country or the animal at risk. That is why we must work together, across borders.
“Why it makes sense to burn #elephant and #rhino #ivory stockpiles”
On 30 April Kenyan President Uhuru Kenyatta will set fire to over 105 tonnes of ivory in Nairobi National Park. This is the biggest ever burning of ivory.
“By burning almost its entire ivory stockpile, Kenya is sending out the message that it will never benefit from illegal ivory captured from poachers or seized in transit. However, as the day of the burn approaches, commentators and experts have been lining up to condemn it. Some of the objections put forward are based on wrong assumptions; some deserve serious consideration.”
Kenyan conservationist Dr Paula Kahumbu is the CEO of Wildlife Direct. She writes in the UK’s The Guardian newspaper about the four reasons “Why it makes sense to burn #elephant and #rhino #ivory stockpiles.” Please read and share her article.
The story of a tusk – 28KG / VOI RIVER / 30/5/14 gives a very moving account of one of the elephants whose tusks ended up among the 10,000 being burned this Saturday.
For more updates on the #GiantsSummit and the historic ivory burning, follow the Kenya Wildlife Service and the Uganda Conservation Foundation on Facebook.
#worthmorealive #Tweets4Elephants are two trending hashtags to follow on Twitter.
Where to travel in Uganda & East Africa in 2016 – the Muzungu’s plans
Where to travel in Uganda & East Africa in 2016
Happy New Year, dear Diary reader!
As we wave goodbye to 2015, I’d like to say a big THANK YOU / WEBALE / ASANTE SANA to everyone who’s read, talked about or voted Diary of a Muzungu ‘Best Tourism Digital Media’ 2015 in Uganda’s inaugural Tourism Excellence Awards.
‘Best Tourism Digital Media’ in Uganda’s inaugural Tourism Excellence Awards.
Here are a few popular stories of 2015, in case you missed them:
On the right track: the Muzungu’s first Ugandan train ride – Rift Valley Railways relaunches Kampala passenger train service after 20 year break. People loved this story.
The drama of dating in Uganda | Expat section of the Daily Telegraph – this one went viral…YIKES!
Karibu! – welcome to East Africa Pope Francis! I’m a bit loved-up if I’m honest! 😉
Karibu! – and welcome to East Africa! – Pope Francis
Do stick around Dear Reader, here’s what’s planned for 2016:
More adventures…
More fun days out…
More culture and conservation experiences from across Uganda and East Africa.
Is there anything cuter than a baby elephant?
In Nairobi, I’ll tell you the story of the adorable baby elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. I left streaked in mud, as one nuzzled upto me and flapped his big elephant ear against my arm…
Elephant orphan at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, Nairobi
Aren’t chimps amazing?
I’m very excited at my upcoming return to Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary on Lake Victoria. PANT HOOTS!
PANT HOOTS! Say the chimps at feeding time, Ngamba Island Chimp Sanctuary
Have you heard of the Marine Big Five? What are they? And where can you see them?
Come dolphin watching and snorkelling with the Muzungu in Watamu on Kenya’s Indian Ocean coast. Incredible!
Dolphin watching and snorkelling in the Coral Gardens in Watamu on Kenya’s Indian Ocean coast with the Watamu Marine Asociation
What colour is a giraffe’s tongue?
Feeding a Rothschild’s Giraffe at the Giraffe Center Nairobi
You may be surprised! In 2016, I’ll be telling you how we fed the Rothschild’s giraffes at Nairobi’s Giraffe Center.
These are just a few of the places we’ll be discovering together in 2016…
DID YOU KNOW…? Daily updates, Uganda travel advice and random funky photos come thick and fast on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page or follow me @CharlieBeau on Twitter.
2016’s going to be a busy year for Diary of a Muzungu – do come along for the ride!
Karibu! – welcome to East Africa – Pope Francis
Karibu! – and welcome to East Africa! – Pope Francis
The Pope has landed in East Africa!
UPDATE: this blog was written when the Pope touched down in East Africa – scroll down to the bottom to see how close we got to him…
Today Pope Francis is in Kenya, and tomorrow Friday 27th November, Uganda will welcome Pope Francis, here to celebrate 50 years of the canonization of the Uganda Martyrs, a group of young Catholic, Protestant and – now it is believed – Muslim men who were killed in 1886.
Pope in Uganda. A few facts that make Pope Francis a man worth listening to:
- Pope Francis is the first Pope to be born outside Europe since Pope Gregory, a Syrian, who was appointed in 731.
- He is a man of simple tastes who shuns limousines for regular saloon cars
- When asked about the status of gay people in the clergy, his response has been a tolerant “If someone is gay and he searches for the Lord and he has his good will, who am I to judge?”
- Apparently Pope Francis doesn’t like going to the historical papal home of Rome as it represents “the heart of everything he believed the Church should not be: luxury, ostentation, hypocrisy, bureaucracy.”
I look forward to hearing what Pope Francis has to say to Ugandans.
This lapsed Catholic never quite made it to First Communion but I have huge respect for a man who seems so dignified, pragmatic and approachable. Not only does he tolerate simplicity, he seeks it out. I wish those vulgar and ostentatious American preachers that are broadcast on Ugandan TV every Sunday could have one tenth of Pope Francis’ humility.
On his two day stay in Uganda, his programme will include a two-hour mass at Namugongo, scene of the killing of the Martyrs.
Here is a copy of the full programme for the Pope in Uganda visit and the official press release about the Pope’s Uganda visit.
On June 3 1886, the day many Christians were burnt to death at Namuwongo, Father Simeon Lourdel, Missionary of Africa wrote this letter . “Some twenty of our best and most influential young men who are learning the Catechism have just been either burnt at the stake or slaughtered and their bodies cut into pieces on the grounds that they deserve death for following the religion of our Lord Jesus Christ. Others have been odiously mutilated or savagely beaten with sticks. A certain number of them are still in prison and are everyday subjected to refined tortures by cruel executioners who have a gift for inventing new torments.”
Opinions vary as to exactly why these young men were ordered to be killed. It seems their crime was having the strength to stand up for themselves, bolstered by their new-found religious beliefs. Christianity represented a threat to the prevailing system: it forbade polygamist marriage, it promoted better treatment of women and slaves. Christian worship forbade the veneration of the lubaale (spirits of the ancestors). All of these factors and more were perceived as an affront to the authority of the Kabaka (King of Buganda Kingdom) and the ruling class. Furthermore, some believed the Christian missionaries were the forerunners of people intent upon ‘eating their country.’
The fact is, these young men (some just teenagers) endured horrific torture, dismemberment, flogging and unspeakable brutality before finally being burnt alive.
If the story of the Uganda Martyrs interests you, read my blog ‘All roads to Namugongo,’ about the inaugural Uganda Martyrs Walk. In this blog, you can also read more from the brilliant and captivating book about the White Fathers (missionaries from France). Told in a series of letters, it brings to life – in the most terrifying way – the build-up to the Martyrs’ persecution and demise.
If you’d would like to see a copy of the Uganda Martyrs DVD documentary that I helped put together for the Uganda Tourism Board, please contact the Muzungu.
The 22 Ugandans who were burnt to death at Namugongo were canonised by Pope Paul VI on October 18, 1964. It is now believed that the total number killed may have been much higher, in fact: 97 Muslim, 24 Catholic and 25 Anglican Martyrs.
Although the Pope does not arrive in Uganda until tomorrow, the souvenir DVD of his visit is already out! “Big ups” to the entrepreneurs of Luwum Street in downtown Kampala! (With thanks to ‘eyes peeled’ journalist Timothy Bukumunhe for this one).
Did you know…? Pope Francis is the third Pope to visit Uganda
According to the web site of Uganda Martyrs Shrine, Namugongo “Pope Paul VI visited Uganda on 31st July, 1969, the very first Papal visit to the African Continent as a whole” and “His Holiness Pope John Paul II visited Uganda in 1993.” Below are some wonderful black and white photos of the first Papal visit to Africa in 1969, courtesy of the Uganda High Commission in Malaysia.
The reconstruction and development of Namugongo Martyrs Shrine and Basilica runs into billions of Uganda shillings. These improvements are well overdue, not only for the visit of the Pope, but for the estimated one million worshippers who visit Namugongo to commemorate the Martyrs every June. The Uganda Tourism Board is now actively promoting religious tourism. The reconstruction of the pavilion; the excavation of the pond (from which believers have been taking ‘holy water’ – and a few germs, surely!); landscaping and construction of several dozen toilets, are a good investment for future visitors. Couples will even be able to get married in the new and improved setting.
The Anglican Uganda Martyrs Shrine at Namugongo has also been rebuilt. This is the shrine that features the model of the Martyrs being burned alive.
Munyonyo, on the edge of Lake Victoria, is said to be where the terrible events all started. After many months (years?) of antagonism, history says that the final death knell for the Martyrs was when Kabaka Mwanga lost his favourite gun in the lake after an unsuccessful hippo hunting trip. When he returned to court, furious, no-one was there to greet him. Rather, they were elsewhere, praying to their new God. This was the final affront to the Kabaka’s patience – or so the story goes… A new Martyrs Shrine at Munyonyo has just been completed, ahead of Pope Francis’ visit.
We have yet to understand what Pope Francis’ legacy will be to Uganda and East Africa. Beyond the feelgood factor, tomorrow’s day off school, the souvenirs and the new tourism infrastructure, how will Uganda be perceived externally after his visit? How will the countries’ different religions interact with each other? How will the poor of this country be motivated or consoled? The Muzungu awaits with interest…
So did the Muzungu get to see Pope Francis?
Not one to miss an opportunity, I can share the scintillating news that I saw the Pope’s arm waving at us as his motorcade zipped past us.
Somehow my friend Hope missed seeing him first time he drive past (where were you looking girl!) so we decided to hang about for an hour – buying papal souvenirs – waiting for him to drive back the other way.
I’d never thought myself the kind of girl to have a picture of any religious leader on my wall, but I like this guy Pope Francis.
How do you think Pope Francis’ visit will affect Ugandans and all East Africans? What are your thoughts about his trip?
Do you stop the car in Nairobi?
“Stop the car,” says Jane. “Take me back to the airport.”
It’s 11 pm. After an uneventful flight – save for the mother who let her (very obviously distressed) 4 year old son bawl for 20 minutes, we land in Nairobi.
We’re last on the plane. (Are there many international airports where the flight attendant approaches you in duty-free to remind you the plane is about to leave?)
We banter with the guys at immigration at Jomo Kenyatta Airport. Despite being EAC residents – and regular visitors to Kenya – they still want to charge Jane the standard $50 tourist visa fee. (Where’s EAC integration when you need it?) The Guy with the Attitude tells her to show him where her visa is (isn’t it HIS job to decipher all those pages of stamps and dodgy handwriting?) “Na na na na” she says as she flashes the page in his face. Too late. He has started writing her name on the visa stamp.
Next in line, mine therefore reads her name crossed out then mine.
A note to Immigration: I’m trying to adhere to the rules but … despite my best and honest efforts, last time I entered Kenya as Nagawa (my Ugandan name) and I left as a US citizen.
It’s only when we get in the taxi that Jane – two hours sans fags – notices the large sign in front of her saying:
NO SMOKING
“Stop the car,” says Jane. “Take me back to the airport. I want another car.”
“What?” asks the driver, confused.
“It is against company policy to smoke in our taxis.” He carries on driving.
“It is against the law to smoke in a taxi in Kenya.” He’s biding his time…
A fast one-way road stretches out in front of us (how will he turn round?) Uganda’s potholed roads force us to drive slowly; smooth, fast roads always scare me when I first leave Uganda
Jane picks up the phone and calls his boss. I squirm in the back of the car.
Jane’s voice rises. “You lied to me!” she tells him,” it is NOT company policy that passengers can’t smoke in cars and it is NOT illegal to smoke in a taxi in Kenya.” Even I’m feeling like a fag by now!
Her accusations are met with silence from the driver.
Karibu – welcome to Kenya … ! This conversation just would not happen in Uganda. Few people smoke / few people care if you smoke and disagreements are met with grace and humour (and a good measure of bullshit) but there’s rarely anger.
Tight rows of reflector posts guide us towards the well-lit UN HQ, soldiers patrolling its perimeter. And then, amidst all this security, a young man launches himself into the middle of the road ahead of us, grinning and waving his arms at us to slow down.
Our driver slows down. “Just keep on driving,” shouts Jane.
Why, after speeding all the way from the airport, does he choose to slow down at the chance of trouble? (Nairobi’s reputation for car jackings precedes it).
“Drive the fucker over!”
I didn’t come to Nairobi to kill someone; but suddenly, all the rules have changed. It feels so different to Uganda.
The driver puts his foot down and we continue into the night.
I first visited Nairobi en route to South Africa – A quick glimpse of Nairobi nightlife
To save money, I slept in the airport. Check out this funky web site – Sleeping in Airports! and my review of Nairobi airport.
An alternative way to travel from Uganda, is by bus – Kampala to Nairobi – 14 hours of speed bumps
