What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a lot of time (and money) applying for separate visas for the three countries: Kenya + Rwanda + Uganda. Most tourist visas are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.
1. Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
2. How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala, for example).
3. How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
4. Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, (former) Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new visa.
5. Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. The official line is that you cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa (although Rwanda states that you “may in exceptional circumstances.”To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below.
6. Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”
7. How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2024: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. For Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visas. For Rwanda, apply online in advance or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. Make sure you get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa online. Alternatively, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip.
NOTE: October 2024. I have spent some time understanding Kenya’s eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation). Kenya claims it is now “visa free” yet most passport holders have to instead apply – and pay for – the eTA. Confused? Yes I was! Here’s Diary of a Muzungu’s advice on how to apply for Kenya’s eTA, along with some useful extra links below:
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa and Interstate Pass applications. (The Interstate Pass is available to East African residents).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, you can get your East Africa Tourist Visa on arrival. Read my blog post Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals, which I update regularly.
However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer. Use Irembo, the Rwandan government’s online visa application system. Click here to apply and look for ‘visa application.’ Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.”
For more guidance on the East Africa Tourist Visa in Rwanda, see Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa on the goevernment website.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the official Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to apply for your East Africa Tourist Visa. My blog Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more. I update these visa posts regularly.
You can also request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: immigration request a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration; they will always have the last word. If you do not have a detailed itinerary or evidence of where you will be staying, upload a letter explaining your plans, or immigration may deny you an EATV.
8. What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop!
NOTE: October 2024. I am reviewing the guidance for Kenya: scroll down for link to apply online for Interstate Pass.
Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.
In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.
March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.
9. Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
The East Africa Tourist Visa is only valid in Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda but we hope one day more countries will join the EATV party.
The East African Community has eight member states. In alphabetical order, these are:
- Democratic Republic of the CONGO
- Republic of BURUNDI
- Republic of KENYA
- Republic of RWANDA
- Federal Republic of SOMALIA
- Republic of SOUTH SUDAN
- Republic of UGANDA
- United Republic of TANZANIA
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.
Notes from friends and travelers regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who often make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
- If in doubt, it’s always best to apply online in advice and/or contact the muzungu. Don’t get stranded!
Any feedback or questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident and I regularly travel to Kenya and Rwanda. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues and visitors, supported by the advice of an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya (or wider East Africa) I’m your woman! What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
Is travel to Kenya “visa free”? Get your eTA!
Kenya recently announced it is “visa free” to enter the country yet most passport holders have to instead apply – and pay $34 for – the eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation).
As my travel journalist friend Harriet Owalla writes “We should have just gone the Rwanda way, where no African country will need a visa to enter the country. You just get in and your passport is stamped, provided you state the reason for visit and you stay within the 90 days limit.”
Anyway, I admit I was confused to start with! But here’s what you need to know:
Kenya’s official eTA website has tons of useful information including a long list of frequently asked questions, some of which I list further down this page.
Click here to apply for your eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation) for travel to Kenya.
How long does it take to get approval of eTA?
Applications are usually processed within 3 days, but may take longer in some cases. It’s recommended you apply 2 weeks before you travel (although you can apply up to 3 months before). Apply as soon as you have booked your accommodation and transport.
I have a valid East Africa Tourist Visa. Can I travel to Kenya using this?
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel. eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa and Interstate Pass applications. (The Interstate Pass is available to East African residents).
For more info about the East Africa tourist Visa, visit my East Africa Tourist Visa blog post, which I update regularly.
Some of the frequently asked questions about Kenya’s eTA (which has replaced the tourist visa):
- What is the Kenya Electronic Travel Authorisation (eTA)?
- How long is the eTA valid for?
- Does the eTA allow for multiple entries to Kenya?
- I will not be staying in a hotel during my trip, how do I complete my eTA?
- What if I am refused the eTA?
- I am a resident of an EAC country, am I exempt from the eTA?
- There are other websites offering faster processing, shall I use it?
- Do you have an urgent application process?
- Can I apply for my eTA using my national ID card?
- Who must obtain the eTA?
- Do children or infants also require an eTA?
- I’m at the airport, can you approve my application urgently?
- My name is incorrect on my eTA, how can I change it?
- I can’t find my home address when filling in the application, how can I proceed?
- What information is required to apply for an eTA?
- How can I contact someone about my application?
- My eTA has been approved but my details are incorrect, how can I change it?
- Do I have to apply for an eTA if I am a foreign citizen but my spouse is Kenyan?
- How do I apply for the eTA?
- I have a valid eTA but I need to change the dates of my trip, how can I do that?
- Can I travel to other countries with my Kenyan eTA?
- How do I check the status of my eTA application?
- How much does the eTA cost?
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya:
- Email etakenya@immigration.go.ke or call on +254 202 222 022. For urgent queries, there’s a live chat function on the eTA website.
- For other immigration questions, visit Kenya’s Department of immigration website
I regularly update key travel pages about tourist visas and travel health and am always happy to answer traveler questions, particularly if you think something has changed. I love hearing from you!
Trunk call: Jim Nyamu walks across East Africa to protect elephants
Have you heard about Jim Justus Nyamu’s cross-continental walks? Read about Ivory Belongs to Elephants’ East-Central Africa campaign walk
An amazing feat! 🐘 (Or should I say feet?) 👣
Jim campaigns tirelessly to protect elephants. He’s walked 1000s of miles / km and this is his 16th Campaign Walk for Elephants. His aim: to encourage African nations to work closely to protect this species that knows no borders.
Jim Justus Nyamu, *OGW, is the Founder and Executive Director of the Elephant Neighbors Center, a non-profit whose mission is “to protect the African Elephant and secure landscapes for elephants outside protected areas.” The brand Ivory Belongs to Elephants™ focuses on raising awareness locally, nationally, and internationally of the plight of African Elephants, primarily through their advocacy walks.
The East-Central Africa walk started in Nairobi, Kenya, on July 29th and passed through Nakuru, Mau Forest, Tinderet, Kakamega and Malaba (Mount Elgon). In Uganda, Jim walked through Mabira Forest, Kampala, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mbarara, Lake Mburo and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; now in Rwanda, Jim will visit Kigali, and Akagera National Park; and onto Goma, Virunga National Park, Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. This four-month walk will cover approximately 3,200 km. The walks offer solutions to mitigating human-wildlife conflict and highlight the direct importance of wildlife to affected communities.
This most iconic of African species is being pushed towards extinction – slaughtered by poachers to supply a worldwide ivory trade worth up to US$20 billion a year. Despite a ban in many countries, the killing is only getting worse. There are now estimated to be only 350,000 elephants left in Africa, with approximately 20,000 being killed every year. African elephants will be extinct in our lifetime if this rate of loss continues.
Ivory belongs to elephants press release
Elephants are crucial in:
- dispersing seeds +
- keeping the habitat open for grazing animals +
- fighting climate change by contributing to natural carbon capture +
- attracting millions of tourists who make substantial contributions to sub-Saharan Africa’s economies +
- so much more!
Jim and his team have been walking to raise awareness since 2013. By the end of the current campaign, they will have walked almost 20,000 km across Africa, the United States, and the UK, connecting with over 16,000 schools, and holding over 900 community meetings along the the campaign walks.
Jim also walks in the US and Europe to raise awareness in international communities that are still trading in ivory. For example, despite the 2018 announcement of the UK government’s plans to ban sale and export of most ivory items, the trade in ivory and live elephants is still legal in several countries.
If you see Jim, why not join the walk for an hour or even a day? 👣
Better still, you can support the team on the ground by making a donation. (I know how grim it is to try and sleep in a soggy tent!)
You can send directly to Jim Justus Nyamu via Momo +256 784755115 or Mpesa +254 713353060 or donate on the Ivory belongs to elephants gofundme page. Find out more on the Ivory belongs to elephants on Facebook.
(*OGW is the Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya is an award presented to individuals in recognition of an outstanding service rendered to the country).
How to make international calls from Uganda [UPDATED]
In this blog post I share my personal tips on Ugandan mobile phone and internet providers, where to find free WiFi, SIM card registration and how to send money using mobile phone apps.
Making an international phone call from Uganda can be pretty straightforward. It can also be a right pain in the kabina (bottom).
When I first arrived in Uganda as a volunteer, I very rarely called home. For some reason outbound phone calls from the UK to Uganda were easier. Skype video calls just didn’t work.
Making a Skype call from Uganda circa 2009
A Skype conversation would go something like this:
Caller: Hi
The muzungu: Hi
Caller: How are you?
The muzungu: I’m fine. How are you?
Caller: I’m sorry, what are you saying? You’re breaking up a bit. Can you say that again?
The muzungu: I can hear you. I’m fine, how are you?
Caller: I can’t really hear you, there’s a bit of an echo on the line, I don’t think I can cope with this.
The muzungu: [Sigh…]
I think to myself: “This conversation is starting the same as the last one, and the one before that. Can we move on and have an actual conversation?”
… Call drops off…
The average conversation lasted for four minutes. I would redial and we would have a two-minute chat. The whole conversation proceeded in two-minute chunks, before one or both of us just gave up.
How to make international calls from Uganda using your mobile phone
Calling directly from your mobile phone in Uganda is far cheaper than it used to be. In fact, sometimes it is cheaper to call than to send a SMS. Mobile phone companies offer call bundles; pre-paid international call bundles are very affordable and can be loaded directly from your Ugandan-registered SIM card. Skype too is better, thanks to improved internet speeds; just don’t expect the video to always work. WhatsApp has transformed connectivity and Ugandans have embraced using Zoom, Google Meet and other communication apps. Rainy weather can affect the quality of the internet (the call quality can also be affected by someone cutting through the internet cable under the sea!)
The best-known providers are Airtel and MTN, and many of us have two phones or dual SIM phones. Other providers include Lyca Mobile, Tangerine, Zuku and Roke Telecom. Note that Africell, Smile, Vodafone and Zain no longer exist and the future of government-owned UTL is unclear (January 2023). It’s very rare to have a home landline phone in Uganda. Airtime can be purchased in tiny amounts and just about anywhere.
How do you pay using your phone if you don’t have a Ugandan bank account?
Mobile money ‘M sente’ has revolutionised airtime and bill payments. Kenya Safaricom led the world in developing M-Pesa, the first solution for sending money and airtime and paying bills via your mobile phone. I rely on mobile money apps to pay my bills. They are robust, reliable, secure and widely accepted. Buy a local SIM card and you can load local currency to buy goods and services and send money to friends, family and colleagues. The two most common providers are MTN and Airtel.
My relationship with MTN
I once spent an afternoon hidden in an airtime vendor’s shack in downtown Kampala, sheltering from an immense thunderstorm. As rain battered the roof, I had an illuminating conversation “Grasshoppers – nsenene: do you eat them or smoke them?”
And then of course there’s “MTN Sunday.” What is that all about? Without fail, every Sunday for several years, I lose contact with everyone. Texts disappear or arrive a day and half later, thus “would you like to meet for Sunday lunch?” has to be organised a day or two in advance. If Sunday is maintenance day, why have I never received a SMS telling me so? (I first wrote this post in 2013 – it was still true in 2018 – and at the end of 2023, I still had issues with my MTN line on Sundays!)
So how does the muzungu call abroad now?
Video Skyping works like a dream now with 4G. My sister prefers FaceTime and mum calls via WhatsApp. I can’t believe how easy it is to call internationally from Kampala now!
How can you access internet on your phone in Uganda?
Ugandan SIM cards can be bought very cheaply everywhere, whether at the exit of Entebbe Airport or at vendor kiosks everywhere. Show your passport to register the SIM card. You can also buy a portable wireless MiFi (some tour operators provide these for guests who want internet accesss while on safari).
You’ll find free WiFi at Entebbe Airport and in most hotels, cafes and restaurants in Kampala and in major towns and popular tourist destinations.
Do you have any tips on how to call internationally from Uganda?
… And if you have other travel tips or advice for expats in Uganda, please comment here or contact the Muzungu. I love hearing from you!
A luxury escape to Mombasa
Serena Beach Resort & Spa
🌊🌊🌊 You can fly direct from Entebbe to Mombasa with Uganda Airlines and pamper yourself at the luxurious Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Mombasa, Kenya.
The ocean 🌊🌊 🌊🌊 was the no. 1 thing I missed during lockdown – and the Mombasa Serena Resort was the first place I stayed after two years locked down in Uganda. Below is my TripAdvisor review from July 2021.
Mombasa Serena Resort is everything I wanted it to be: a wide expanse of white sand, friendly courteous staff, some unusual activities and fantastic food (of course).
The Zanzibar Suite was amazing! I loved the bold colourful interior, the day bed and the hot walk-in shower. The spa is simply beautiful. The outdoor yoga area is surrounded by soothing running water.
One of the highlights of our four night stay was dinner by the beach at the Jahazi (Seafood) Grill. NOT TO BE MISSED! The atmosphere was chilled and the food was sensational. I lost count of the number of courses we ate!
The Swahili-themed architecture made for interesting walks around the resort’s compound. On day one, I took the complimentary architectural and cultural tour, led by a member of staff decked in cultural attire. I’m glad I did this at the start of my trip because it meant that the design themes of the resort resonated more with me. (I have written about a similar, superb tour at the Nairobi Serena Hotel).
Some wildlife highlights at Mombasa Serena Resort were watching newly-hatched Green Turtles rush down to the ocean! What an unexpected joy. I also toured the small Butterfly Garden, a lovely experience run by a gentlemen who is clearly passionate about these beautiful creatures. All these activities are complimentary for resort guests.
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Mombasa Serena Resort & Spa, Kenya. TripAdvisor review, July 2021.
Soak up the rays at “the ultimate tropical paradise” on Mombasa’s white sand beach
“Nestled along a pristine, white ribbon of Indian Ocean shoreline on the north coast of Mombasa, Kenya, the 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa is a true tropical sanctuary. Privacy and tranquillity are ensured with all accommodation arrayed in intimate, single-storey buildings framed by Swahili architecture and landscaped paths, lush lawns, coconut palms and gardens to create the feel of a traditional Lamu village.”
Fly into Moi International Airport, Kenya, and you can be met by a resort representative for the hour and a half drive to Shanzu Beach. The resort overlooks a beautiful stretch of white-sand beach adjacent to Mombasa Marine National Park in the Indian Ocean.
Serena Beach Resort & Spa Mombasa is perfect for families, couples, honeymooners and those looking for an adventure. The resort has received the TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice 2022 and is ranked in the top 10% of properties on TripAdvisor.
Serena Beach Resort & Spa Uganda Airlines package excludes:
- Visa entry charges to Kenya (where applicable)
- Personal items such as drinks, laundry, phone calls, tips to hotel staff, personal travel insurance.
All 74 guest rooms and suites suites at Serena Beach Resort & Spa have private balconies or terraces with ocean views or facing the courtyard gardens. Interiors feature Maasai-inspired hand-painted wall decor, supremely comfortable beds and modern comforts (minibar, complimentary WiFi, flat-screen cable and satellite TV).
Facilities at Serena Beach Resort & Spa
- Beach front and extensive gardens
- Gorgeous swimming pool with swim-up bar
- Maisha Mind, Body & Spirit Spa for jacuzzi, massage and beauty treatments
- Fitness centre (gym)
- Air-conditioned squash courts
- Airport transfers with ‘meet and greet’ services in Mombasa
- Superb food at the Jahazi Seafood Grill
- Complementary activities including: architectural, cultural and conservation tour of the resort;
- Butterfly Centre; Turtle Watch Programme; ‘Walk-in’ chessboard (with human size chess pieces!)
- Evening entertainment
- Recreational activities include kitesurfing, wind-surfing, beach volleyball and eco trails, glass-bottomed boat trips, wide variety of water sports, PADI dive school (additional charges may apply)
- Ice cream parlour
- Wedding planning service
- Dedicated world-class event and conference centre
- Travel desk and taxi and limousine service
- Hair salon
- Gift shop
Local landmark attractions in and around Mombasa include
- Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve
- Haller Park / Nature Trail in Mombasa
- Historic Mombasa
- Nyali Golf and Country Club
- Shimba Hills National Reserve
- Tsavo East National Park
- Vipingo Ridge Golf
- Wasini Island
Planning a holiday on the Kenyan coast? You can contact the 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Mombasa.
Kenya reservations.mombasa@serenahotels.com +254 732 125 000 / +254 727 424 201/2/3
Making an enquiry? Do say Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉
Huge boost for Kenya tourism as UK relaxes travel restrictions
Kenya moves from red list to amber list
Finally! Kenya 🇰🇪 is off the UK’s red list! This will take effect at 4am, Wednesday 22 September 2021.
For the last few months, tens of thousands of British people have been denied the chance to travel to Kenya, one of their favourite holiday destinations. Equally, red list restrictions have been disastrous for Kenyans wanting to visit friends and relatives in the UK, and those who study or work in the UK.
While we appreciate the need to protect ourselves and others from COVID-19, the British “traffic light system” has created untold frustrations for travellers. Travel restrictions continue to cause massive financial losses for developing countries whose economies are reliant on tourism.
At the time of writing, leisure travel to red list countries is banned by the UK government and remains in place for Uganda, Rwanda, South Africa and many other countries. (Ironically, the UK has some of the world’s highest COVID infection rates). November 2021: travel is a continuous state of flux. If you have any East Africa travel-related questions you are always welcome to message me directly.
Are you traveling to Kenya?
According to the Magical Kenya website, all passengers travelling to Kenya from the UK must have a negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate conducted within 96 hours before travel. (Children under the age of five are exempt).
In addition, all passengers are required to self-isolate for seven days upon arrival (except if you are coming from the exempted countries) and must take a PCR test four days after arrival. [September 18th: will visitors to Kenya still need to self-isolate after 22nd September? I am looking for official guidance on that and shall update this blog once I find it].
All travellers need to complete a COVID-19 Travellers Health Surveillance Form before travelling. You’re advised to download the QR code which you will need to show to Port Health officials on arrival.
Are you travelling to the UK from Kenya?
According to the East African (September 17th 2021) “Travellers from Kenya will be exempted from compulsory hotel quarantine, although they may be required to isolate for 10 days and take tests.”
Read more about the red and amber list travel restrictions on the British government’s website.
I know from first-hand experience how creative we have to be if we want to avoid quarantine! In July 2021, I travelled from ‘red list Uganda’ via Spain in order to get into the UK without quarantining.
I regularly visit Kenya so I’m absolutely thrilled that red list restrictions are being removed. We now need Uganda, Rwanda, and South Africa to be removed from the UK’s red list!
Are you planning a trip to Kenya? Safari or coast – what is your favourite destination?
Nairobi in lockdown – but Kenya still open for international tourists
Kenya’s President announced #lockdown to reduce spread of Coronavirus in the five counties of Nairobi, Kajiado, Machakos, Kiambu and Nakuru – that has now passed. Pole sana to my friends in and around #Nairobi as President Uhuru Kenyatta announced another #lockdown Friday 26th March 2021.
UPDATE: Saturday, 1 May 2021. NAIROBI – Kenyan President Uhuru Kenyatta has lifted the COVID-19 lockdown; curfew hours in the Zoned Area are revised to 10 pm to 4 am and restaurants can reopen. Across Kenya, bars can operate until 7 pm; education institutions and sporting activities can resume; nevertheless, Kenyans are encouraged to work from home.
Photo of Nairobi – pre-lockdown – photo courtesy of @Kasyokall and @Kenyapics.
Nairobi has been experiencing a third wave of COVID-19 infections and Kenya is reporting the highest rates of Coronavirus infections since the pandemic began one year ago. Kenya’s rate of COVID-19 positives jumped from 2% to 22% between January and March 2021; Nairobi accounts for nearly 60% of those cases. (Note: Coronavirus infections are predicted to spike again in Uganda as a result of rainy season weather).
However, it’s not all gloom and doom. Jomo Kenyatta (Nairobi) and Moi International (Mombasa) Airports are still open for visitors coming on safari and beach holidays in Mombasa, Diani, Watamu and beyond.
Some key points about #NairobiLockdown for anyone who is in Nairobi (or “the five counties”) or who is planning to travel to Kenya:
- No movement by road, rail and air in and out of the counties of Nairobi, Kajiado, Machakos, Kiambu and Nakuru until further notice. (Anyone got a camel I can borrow?) 🐪 🤭
- You can move freely within the five counties but you can’t leave or enter the ‘One Zoned Area.’
- International arrivals into Nairobi are still permitted, as long as travellers have a negative COVID-19 test that is no more than 96 hours old.
- For my Ugandan readers: my understanding is you can still fly from Entebbe International Airport to Nairobi or from Entebbe to the Coast but internal flights (e.g. between Nairobi and the coast will cease on Monday 29th March 2021).
- International buses are affected too (and had only just restarted)… 😥
- The only bus service that Mash are currently operating is the Kitui to Mombasa route.
- No in-person meetings of any kind in the five counties until further notice. This includes sports matches, church services and political meetings.
- Bars are suspended and restaurants can only provide takeaway services and are banned from selling alcohol. Schools and universities are closed (except for those taking exams).
- Everyone has to work from home until further notice, except for those whose services can’t be provided remotely.
- Weddings may have no more than 30 people attending; no more than 50 people are allowed at a funeral.
- Curfew will start at 8 pm and end at 4 am in the five counties. (Elsewhere, Kenya’s nationwide curfew will continue from 10 pm to 4 am for a further 60 days effective from 12 March 2021).
- According to the UK’s Daily Telegraph, the British High Commission in Nairobi has indicated that Kenya is likely to be added to the UK government’s red list. “If you have been in or through any of the countries on the red list in the previous 10 days, you will be refused entry to the UK.” If indeed Kenya is added to the UK’s red list, British tourists will still be allowed to travel to Kenya but they will have to quarantine for ten days when they return home to the UK. That is likely to discourage many. However, since the UK government has banned all international travel until the end of June (at least), you might speculate that this is a ‘storm in a teacup’! By the time Brits are free to travel, Nairobi will have reemerged from lockdown (we hope). I believe it would be extremely unfair – and massively damaging for the Kenyan economy – to add Kenya to the UK’s red list. The biggest number of visitors to Kenya do not even visit Nairobi; they go on safari and they travel to the coast.
- UPDATE April 2 2021 Covid-19: Kenya added to UK’s ‘red list’ travel ban *scroll down to the comments for latest info on what that means*
- The UK has expressed concern that the free movement of people between Tanzania and Kenya during the pandemic has brought COVID-19 variants into Kenya. In April 2020, the late President Magufuli of Tanzania declared the country to be free of COVID-19. He claimed that God had protected Tanzania from the pandemic and ordered reopening of the country’s borders. Despite some border controls (people traveling from Tanzania into Kenya must have a negative Covid-19 certificate), there are many unofficial border crossings. Tanzania has not published statistics on Coronavirus since May 2020 (yet a friend recently attended a festival of 1000+ people in Zanzibar recently!) Keeping the Tanzania border open means that Kenyans who travel to the UK are forced to spend 10 days in government-sanctioned quarantine hotels.
- UPDATE end March 2021 President Suluhu says Tanzania to re-evaluate position on Covid-19 “We cannot isolate ourselves as if we are an Island but also, we cannot accept everything brought to us. We cannot continue just reading about Covid-19 worldwide, yet Tanzania is all blank [sic]. It is incomprehensible,” she said. “Tanzania needs to have its own understanding of where we stand on the issue of Covid-19.”
The new Nairobi lockdown is not good news. I only hope it stems the high rate of COVID-19 infections in and around Nairobi.
I can’t wait to revisit Nairobi. In fact, I’m planning to fly to Nairobi soon (and had my first COVID-19 jab in Kampala last week). Read my blog about the Nairobi Serena Hotel’s ‘architectural, cultural and conservation tour,’ a fascinating voyage of discovery across the continent – all from the hotel.
Thinking of all my friends in Kenya 🤗🇰🇪😷
Are you in Nairobi? Or are you planning to travel to Kenya soon? Travel arrangements change constantly during COVID-19 so I will be updating this page frequently. You are welcome to post a question here in the comments or contact me directly. (Comments are better as your questions may help a wider audience).
The future of travel in East Africa: Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome
Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome: travel post covid-19 in Uganda and East Africa
With over 40 years’ experience working in tourism and aviation in Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, Professor Wolfgang Thome is uniquely placed to share his insights on the future of travel post covid-19 in East Africa and across the continent. If you want to know what is happening in tourism circles in Nairobi, Cape Town, the Seychelles or Lagos, Wolfgang is your man! (The above photo was taken at Kilimanjaro Airport in 2017. Pictured with us are fellow travel writers Solomon Oleny and Edgar Batte).
Travel has been impacted more than any other aspect of our lives. For some of us, that affects everything: our business, our lifestyle, our ability to spend time with close family. As we try and assess what the new normal looks like, I decided to ask Wolfgang his views. He is both a frequent traveller and in daily contact with airlines, hotels and tourism boards across Africa.
Overall, Uganda seems to be doing well with our approach to managing coronavirus. Do you think this will encourage tourists to travel to Uganda post covid-19?
Initially did Uganda indeed do very well based on the experience with past Ebola and Marburg outbreaks. Numbers kept stable but those responsible took their eyes off the ball with regard to truck drivers entering from Tanzania, Kenya and South Sudan. It took too long for them to take public input seriously and get off their high horses and institute checks before trucks were allowed to enter Uganda. What is needed is to restore public trust and confidence. ‘Beautifying’ numbers is a transparent ploy to make the country look better … yet, numbers are going up again, literally every day. We therefore have some way to go to demonstrate to potential visitors from overseas – when they are allowed to come in again without mandatory quarantine – that Uganda is safe and ready to host them.
What opportunities do you see for the Ugandan / East African tourism and travel industry post covid-19?
The main opportunity right now I see is in domestic tourism. Kenya has reached a domestic tourism percentage of over 55 percent (domestic tourists as a percentage of overall visitors). We in Uganda need to move towards such goals too. That said, discounting factors in Kenya for domestic tourists can reach 65 per cent off published rates and in some cases even more … so Uganda’s hotel and lodge operators need to take a leaf from that rebating level if domestic tourism is to truly take off. The present US Dollar rates quoted for hotels and lodges also need to go out of the window for Ugandans who want to pay in their own currency. Achieving this is possible but requires a major shift in mindset.
Read #MohammedHersi’s take on the future of the tourism industry – Post #COVID19 on Wolfgang’s website. Hersi is Chairman of the Kenya Tourism Federation.
Wolfgang, you are a speaker at a number of tourism events and exhibitions across Africa, notably AfriaDev in South Africa and Nigeria Travel Week. In your view, what is the future for big trade events like Magical Kenya and Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
I do regularly speak at major aviation and tourism events and trade shows across Africa. Unfortunately as of now, some eight such engagements have been postponed and cancelled this year. I do not see any major tourism event taking place this year and our hope is now based on 2021 and no secondary or tertiary Coronavirus infection waves.
When it comes to regional events does the Karibu – KiliFair excel as the largest such fair in Eastern Africa. The more local events like the Magical Kenya Travel Expo in Nairobi, the Swahili International Tourism Exhibition in Dar es Salaam or the Pearl of Africa Travel Expo in Kampala are focusing mainly on promoting their respective countries, which is of course why they were established. The big African tourism trade shows like the Africa Travel Week, which includes World Travel Market Africa, IBTM and ILTM, Indaba in Durban or We Are Africa in contrast promote many African safari and beach destinations and are therefore bringing larger numbers of exhibitors and trade visitors together from around the world.
What is the future for aviation travel post covid-19 in Uganda, East Africa and the African continent?
Brussels Airlines will resume European flights as of 15th of June 2020 and should be back in Entebbe, in combination with Kigali, from probably mid-July although no details are available, even for me, at this moment on how many flights they will launch with. The route to Bujumbura in Burundi is due to follow by mid-August. Kenya Airways intends to relaunch flights as of 8th of June and Safarilink and Jambojet, as soon as the Kenyan government lifts the movement restrictions in and out of Nairobi County, Mombasa County, Kwale County (Ukunda) and Kilifi County (Malindi). Please read my blog ATC News where I publish all the latest information about resumption of flights in East Africa and beyond.
At what point do you think we should reopen primate tourism and should there be limits?
While we wait for any scientific evidence on the possible virus transmission from humans to primates, is it better to err on the side of caution and not open tracking for gorillas, chimpanzees, golden monkeys and other primate species. As and when primate tourism reopens, will visitors obviously have to wear masks and may even need to be tested before being allowed to track. The timeframe for reopening depends on the advice of veterinarians and scientists and we ought to listen to their advice.
Will you be travelling this year? If so, where?
As I mentioned before, eight of my speaking engagements and attendances were cancelled while I cancelled two planned trips to Kenya between late February 2020 and now for obvious reasons: borders are still closed, air transport is not yet available and while the virus keeps spreading, in any country I may want to visit like Germany, Belgium, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana, I will not endanger myself nor my grandkids when I come home. This means that for all intent and purpose, regional and international travel for me will start again next year though I intend to use the time gained to step up travel across Uganda.
Tell us about a typical day in lockdown for you Prof.
A typical day includes my regular writing of articles and news items for ATCNews.org, the preparation of the daily #COVID19 updates at 6 am and 6 pm and, while the lockdown lasted, also a regular dose of humour under the headings #CoronaHumour #CoronaMemes.
During the day I spend as much time as I can find with my grandchildren. I take regular walks through the garden with my grandson in tow to show him birds, butterflies, insects, flowers and orchids and then devote time to cooking meals. If I cannot have a served Egg Benedict once in a while I just have to prepare them myself. What I have refrained from doing is participating in the tsunami wave of webinars and video conferences of which, when available, I read the summaries only to realise I did not miss a lot.
I hardly miss my once a week or once a fortnight trips into the city (apart from those Eggs Benedict at Kampala Serena Hotel and Mestil Hotel). I do check in regularly with key contacts via email or WhatsApp and so overall there was hardly any change in my day’s pattern compared to pre-lockdown days.
How will you proceed when the lockdown has been lifted?
Now that the lockdown has been lifted in a qualified way with the use of private vehicles possible again, I will nevertheless exercise utmost caution and restraint. My visits to the city will be far and few between while infection numbers in Uganda are still on the rise. I urge your readers to exercise similar caution and take extra care in their movements and interaction with others. Stay safe!
I hope to spend more time travelling around Uganda in the coming months. Note for example that Rainforest Lodge Mabira set to reopen on Monday 1st June 2020.
Who is Professor Wolfgang Thome?
Wolfgang is a prolific writer and blogger at ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News. He is an aviation expert and has worked at a strategic level in tourism across East Africa for over four decades.
As lockdown eases, I will relaunch my popular ‘Introduction to Digital Marketing for Tourism’ workshops where we discuss: how hotel staff can encourage guests to write positive TripAdvisor reviews and check in on Facebook; tips for using Instagram and Facebook Business Pages; video marketing, Instastories, YouTube, Facebook Stories and WhatsApp status updates; email marketing and how to work with bloggers.
How we travel post covid-19 remains unclear but travel we will – in time. A big thank you to Wolfgang for keeping us up to date on the future of travel in East Africa. Remember to check out his blog ATCNews.org and follow him on Twitter and Facebook.
10 fascinating facts about flamingos, Lake Elmenteita, Kenya
10 fascinating facts (I bet you didn’t know) about flamingos!
Flamingo-watching, horse riding among zebras, a game drive in search of elands, giraffes and Secretary Birds – what more can a girl ask for? Sigh… read about my three action-packed days at the luxurious Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp, Soysambu Conservancy in Kenya’s Rift Valley.
For many years I’ve had a postcard decorated with bright pink birds next to my desk. Seeing flamingos in their natural environment has been high on my African travel bucket list for longer than I remember. Although flamingos are occasional visitors to Uganda, their numbers are low and their arrival unpredictable. I was therefore thrilled to have the opportunity to visit Kenya’s Lake Elmenteita, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Important Bird Area, famous for its flamingo and pelican populations.
Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp has a superb range of activities for the active (and the not so active!) Horse riding, game drives, archery, a lakeshore breakfast, birdwatching and the Serena’s wonderful Maisha Spa are just a few highlights. Would the muzungu be able to fit them all in my three-day stay? (If you know me, you know I want to try everything!)
Scroll down for 10 Fascinating Facts about Flamingos.
As soon as I stepped out of the vehicle, my eyes were drawn to Lake Elementeita and the hill known as the Sleeping Warrior (AKA Lord Delamere’s Nose). Between us lay a chink of shining water. Were the flamingos there?
Checking into my luxury tent cum cottage would have to wait while I peered at the lake – and there it was! – a fine line of pink and the most extraordinary noise. (I was to become familiar with the funny noises that feeding flamingos make!)
Flamingos are so unusual that my mind raced with questions about their pink appearance, their unusual beak and their quirky dance! If you’re curious like I am, you might enjoy the tips I collected about these fabulous and unique birds.
10 Fascinating Flamingo Facts
Who can fail to identify a flamingo? These leggy tropical wading birds have long curvy necks. Most noticeably of all, they are pink!
Flamingos are water birds that live in and around lakes and lagoons. In East Africa, these waters are usually saline or alkaline.
Did you know… ? The pinkest flamingos have the highest status as their bright colour shows that the bird is good at finding food and thus strong.
Fun Flamingo Fact #1
Why are flamingos pink?
Flamingos embody the phrase “you are what you eat” and consume a diet of small fish, shrimps and crustaceans that live on lake algae. The pink comes from beta-carotene in the crustaceans.
Did you know… ? Flamingos that live in zoos will turn white if their diet is not supplemented with live shrimp or food containing carotenoid pigments.
The number of pink birds is increasing – this is a new thing according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. Other birds such as Yellow-billed Stork can be affected and you may see a pink tinge to their wings.
Flamingos are pink on the inside, too. Flamingo skin is pink; so is flamingo blood!
Fun Flamingo Fact #2
There are six species of flamingo. Two are native to East Africa.
The Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus) is the most widespread flamingo species. Greater Flamingos are bigger and have a defined S body shape.
The Lesser Flamingo (Phoenicopterus minor) is the most numerous species of flamingo. Lesser Flamingos are smaller but pinker!
Did you know… ? Both flamingo species can be seen at Lake Elmenteita.
Fun Flamingo Fact #3
Did you know… ? Flamingos feed upside down while dancing? They hold their breath while feeding too!
Their feet disturb the lakebed and release algae. With their head upside-down, they suck the muddy water and filter the lake’s nutrient through their specially designed beak.
Fun Flamingo Fact #4
Groups of flamingos are known as colonies and may number several hundred birds. In East Africa, more than one million flamingos have been known to flock together.
Did you know… ? As breeding time approaches, a high-status flamingo will influence the rest of the flock to breed by changing its feathers to a deeper shade of pink, kick-starting the breeding rituals. Isn’t that amazing?
Fun Flamingo Fact #5
Did you know… ? A colony of flamingos all mate at the same time so chicks all hatch at the same time.
Flamingos are monogamous and produce one egg each year. The pair build a nest of mud and sticks and take turns to sit on the egg while it incubates. When a flamingo chick hatches, after a month, both parents take turns to feed it. Their straight beaks start to curve as they grow. Flamingo chicks are born white or grey and take up to 3 years to reach their mature pink colour
Flamingos breed on Lake Natron in Tanzania but spend most of their year on lakes in Kenya.
Fun Flamingo Fact #6
Did you know… ? You can see flamingos (those that are not breeding) throughout the year at Lake Elmentaita.
The breeding flamingos – and young – return to Lake Elmenteita from May onwards. During June 2018, there were more flamingos here than ever: almost the whole lake was covered, according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp.
From late December to January flamingos fly to their breeding ground on Lake Natron in Tanzania. A number always remain at lake Elmentaita – with the large pelican population – throughout the year.
Fun Flamingo Fact #7
Did you know… ? Although flamingo numbers are fairly stable, Lesser Flamingos are considered near threatened because their numbers are small or decreasing, according to the IUCN (International Union for the Conservation of Nature).
Fun Flamingo Fact #8
Flamingos live between 20 and 30 years, some longer. They have one of the longest lifespans in the bird world.
Did you know… ? Fossil remains show close relatives of the flamingo existed around 30 million years ago. This makes them one of the older bird species
Fun Flamingo Fact #9
Do you know why flamingos stand on one leg when they want to rest? It’s been suggested that having one leg out of the water preserves body heat.
A flamingo knee bends backwards (and is covered in feathers). The “knee” that we see is actually an ankle joint.
Fun Flamingo Fact #10
The word ‘flamingo’ comes from the Spanish word ‘flamenco’ meaning fire, which refers to the bright colour of their feathers (naturally!)
The spacious tented accommodation at the 4-star Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is a clever combination of fixed walls and canvas that rolls up to reveal mosquito-netted windows. Each cottage has a private view of the lake.
Rooms are furnished with colonial-style furniture: a wooden floor, a large desk complete with cubbyholes for letters, a desk lamp, a hefty wooden chest with brass fittings, a day bed, a dressing table, and overhead a chandelier (of course) and framed prints of some of East Africa’s most exotic birds such as the flamboyant Northern Carmine Bee eater, and Lilac-breasted Roller.
I had two delicious nights sleep on a ridiculously comfortable mattress. I was in seventh heaven when I found hot water bottles warming my bed! Mosquito nets drape around the four-poster bed and fall to the floor. My bathroom had ‘double vanities’ (twin basins); it had two of everything in fact – even a double ‘his and her’ shower! Toiletries are provided in large wall dispensers. (Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is Gold Eco-rated after all!) Each cottage is well connected with power sockets, a phone and plenty of hot water.
About Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp
- The 25 luxury tented accommodation can sleep up to 50 people.
- The Flamingo Suite is the closest accommodation to the lake and perfect for honeymooning couples.
- Complimentary activities include cooking with the chef, watercolour painting, a botanical tour, archery, Swahili lessons and yoga
- Other (charged) activities include night game drives, massages and bush dinner.
- The swimming pool is gorgeous!
- There is a small ‘conference tent’ that can be set up for up to 35 people
For more information…
- Why not combine a stay at Lake Elmentaita with a few days at the Nairobi Serena Hotel? Read my blog ‘How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel.’
- Rates are usually based on full board and include Soysambu Conservancy fee and numerous (but not all) activities; mineral water or soft drinks with meals. Family offer: children under five years sharing rooms with parents stay free.
Travel tips and Directions to Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp
- The journey by road from Nairobi takes 2 1/2 hours. Distance from Nairobi 135 km; Nakuru 30 km; Nakuru National Park (Nderit gate) 27 km.
- Fly by private plane or charter to nearby airstrip.
- Land a helicopter at the camp’s helipad.
- The final approach to the Conservancy is on a good new road. Within five minutes we were in dusty bush and almost immediately saw bushbuck, warthog and impala.
- The Soysambu Conservancy was created in 2007 and is known as a ‘dual land use’ conservancy of wildlife with livestock. The Conservancy’s 48,000 acres (190 square km) protects 12,000 wild animals (including Rothschild’s giraffe, zebra, eland, buffalo, leopard and lion), 7,000 cattle and 4,000 goats and sheep. The conservancy is clean, quiet and isolated from modern life. (I found comfort in not seeing any human activity on the lake).
- Visitors to the Conservancy can only gain entry by booking in advance. This policy is because the Conservancy’s infrastructure can only support a limited number of vehicles. This limited access gives pre-booked visitors an exclusive experience. Book through the Conservancy’s tourism partners (such as Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp) or camp.
- Soysambu is very accessible and you don’t need a four-wheel-drive. If you buy a map of the conservancy then you don’t need to hire a guide.
- For additional wildlife excitement, Nakuru National Park is a stone’s throw away and home to a few species you can’t see at the Conservancy, including white rhino, black rhino, striped hyena and elephant.
- By comparison, conservancy fees are very affordable (and included in the rates for staying at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp).
Read full details about Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp’s facilities in my Travel Directory.
Have you visited Lake Elmenteita? How much do you LOVE flamingos?
How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel
The Nairobi Serena Hotels’s Architectural, Cultural and Conservation tour takes you on a fascinating voyage of discovery across the continent – and is highly recommended!
On my last trip to Nairobi, I stayed at the fabulous – gorgeously renovated – Nairobi Serena Hotel. Over breakfast (an event in itself!) I planned a day’s sightseeing.
I was disappointed to see the rain falling and reluctantly shelved my plan to take a short walk through Uhuru Gardens to the Murumbi Gallery at Point Zero. The Murumbi Gallery started as the private collection of Joseph and Sheila Murumbi who travelled the continent to curate a mind-boggling collection of artefacts that present African culture through hundreds of years of craftsmanship. The scope and beauty of the Murumbi Gallery’s collection is breath-taking. I have to visit every time I’m in Nairobi.
When I learned that the Nairobi Serena Hotel has their very own Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour, you can imagine my delight! In fact, this unique hotel tour is led by the highly professional concierge Felix Tiony who was trained at the very same Murumbi Gallery. There was no need to brave the rain: I could have my cultural experience (with a personal guide) within the comfort of the hotel.
Felix, a Concierge Clefs d’Or, explained how Alan Donovan, chairman of Murumbi Gallery and mastermind of the phenomenal Heritage House, had been curating interiors at Serena Hotels for over 40 years! My affection for Nairobi Serena grew deeper by the moment.
Click on the images in the gallery to read about some of the items on display.
Fragrant flowers are always a central part of the Serena Hotels’ decor. Here in Nairobi, next to the huge floral displays are intriguing historical artefacts, statues and carvings.
I believe the Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour is only supposed to take one hour but I was so full of questions that I’m sure I must have taken up three hours of Felix’s time!
This tour is complimentary for hotel guests and Felix has a wealth of interesting details about the artefacts on display. He also revealed the Pan-African theme throughout every space in the hotel. As he described the motifs and their origins, I perceived the same shapes in the flooring, in etchings on glass windows, on furniture. It was thoroughly engaging.
Established in 1976, the Nairobi Serena is certainly not just another Nairobi city hotel. I had a great feeling for its sense of history and its Pan-African theme.
The hotel’s architecture reflects a fusion of cultural influences from West Africa, Morocco, North Africa and Islam. Click on the images below to see the Bambara Lounge, named after the Bambara community of Mali and designed around a West African theme. The gorgeous hand-carved camphor wood panels depict African legends and superstition. The backdrop to the Mandhari Fine Dining Restaurant is a 60-foot Kisii soapstone mural of the Ngong Hills by Jony Waite. I loved the colourful lanterns, tapestry screens and Moroccan-inspired brass decorations of the Cafe Maghreb restaurant, also pictured below. The Ethiopian-themed Aksum Bar is named after the Northern Ethiopian town. The Kingdom of Aksum reigned at the heart of ancient Ethiopia until the 13th century. The Aksum Bar’s unique style is fittingly fun for a sports bar!
My guide Felix pointed out the motif of ‘an abstracted lizard,’ that originates from the Senofu people of Cote D’Ivoire where it can be seen carved on doors and is believed to be a sign of wealth and status. This is just one of many interesting symbols that run throughout the design of the hotel. (By the way, descriptions of various artefacts here are taken from the exquisite book My journey through African heritage by Alan Donovan, which is available in the Nairobi Serena gift shop).
The Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour is also available at the Serena Beach Resort & Spa in Mombasa and Kampala Serena Hotel and is complimentary to all in-house guests.
If you’d like to experience the Nairobi Serena Hotels’s tour for yourself, call +254 (0)202 842333 / (0)732 123333. Read more about the fabulous Nairobi Serena Hotel’s 5 star facilities in my Travel Directory. It’s gorgeous beyond words!
Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger
S is for … swimming, for Swahili Beach, for sisters… ❤️
With eight swimming pools cascading down to the Indian Ocean, Swahili Beach Resort in Diani is high on my list of places for ‘a proper holiday.’
As fun as my trips are – you hate me, I would! – the schedule is often gruelling. On a week-long trip, there are frequently two 5 a.m. starts.
Work starts before take-off. I note the airline experience, changes at the airport, how we are processed and more.
As soon as I arrive at a hotel, I start taking photos, checking in on social media, talking to staff, meeting the manager. How we’re welcomed is important.
I have a formula now: take photos of my hotel room before I dump all my belongings and mess the place up! (You’ll never get the room to look the way the maid / room attendant does, so don’t even try). Next I put my valuables in the safe before I get distracted by the hectic schedule. (On this trip to the Kenyan coast, I even LEFT something in the safe… a whole new thing to worry about on my next trips!)
At breakfast time, I’m that weirdo that has to photograph everything. Don’t worry if you’re in the photo. It’s the food I’m focusing on: I’ll crop you out. (Nothing personal).
As the day progresses, I juggle camera, phone, battery pack, rechargers, notebook and occasional, sometimes audible, screams of I LOVE MY LIFE as we head to the next destination.
Dinner may be preceded by a tour of the kitchen, a chance to meet the chef, or a discussion about tourism and room bookings …
Every trip is a chance to learn more about a destination, a tourism activity. I pack in as much as I can. (I extended a recent Kenya trip no less than four times!)
I continue taking photos, some with my camera, and some with my phone. (Can you imagine the gazillion images there are to process when I get home!) I retrace my steps and take new pictures of the same places, early morning and evening time. A place looks different after you’ve lived there for a day or two.
If there’s a bath, I’ll always have one, even if it’s just the briefest ‘jump in and out’ before the next activity calls; it’s part of the routine. (A bath is a luxury – I live on the edge of Kibale Forest where we bathe in a bucket!)
I try on the bathrobe, I have a drink on the veranda.
If there’s local food, I’ll always try it. I take part in all the activities thrown at us. Showing off is all part of the game.
And at a certain point, there’s an unexpected gap in the programme and I breathe. I take in the moment.
I think about my family, my closest friends, the people I want to share these moments with, and that’s when I really smile, remembering happy times, planning future special moments together.
Swahili Beach Resort in Diani is high on my list of places for ‘a proper holiday.’ This trip was just a ‘recce’ (a research trip). I spent a few minutes in one of the resort’s eight (yes 8!) swimming pools thinking how much my sister Sarah would love being here too – one day, I hope sis! These smiles are for you ❤️❤️❤️
The central feature of Swahili Beach Resort is the series of eight swimming pools. When seen from above, they appear to be one long passage of water that cascades downhill to the ocean. Every pool has its steps, making each one appear like a private pool. Over 3,000,000 litres of water pass through the swimming pools every day.
It’s incredible to think that this five-star luxury hotel was created out of a big lump of coral rock.
Jeff Mukolwe, General Manager of Swahili Beach Resort explained: “Kenya Wildlife Service gave us permission to excavate the dead coral and allowed us to build a low wall to help reduce erosion of the current beach. In time, coral will grow on the wall.” This is possibly Diani’s biggest land reclamation project.
Swahili Beach Resort is a dream wedding destination, whether for small ceremonies for 20 or a 4-day Indian wedding for 250 people! On the weekends preceding my stay, Swahili Beach hosted wedding guests from Kenya, Ethiopia, Canada, the UK and Australia. “The clifftop area has been a very special place for a number of different couples who got married here.” Find me a husband, I say 😉
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Welcoming the whales in Watamu – a first for Kenya!
Whale watching in Watamu, part of Kenya’s Twin Migration!
The Great Migration of a million plus wildebeest across the plains of Kenya – and Tanzania – combined with the annual migration of whales along Kenya’s coast make a compelling case for visiting East Africa at this time of year.
Did you know…? Between July and September, humpback whales pass close to the shores of the Kenyan coast. Why? They gather in the warm Kenyan waters to calve and mate. If you’re into wildlife – like I am – whale watching is another not-to-be-missed ecotourism experience!
Below are extracts from an article in Kenya’s The Nation entitled Travelling to Watch Whales in Kenyan Coast.
Armed with a pair of binoculars and a good viewing spot, Charlotte Beauvoisin, a British travel blogger who lives in Uganda sat at the shore watching the whales from land.
“I got a sneak peek from behind the scenes with the Watamu Marine Association land research team,” she says.
Charlotte Beauvoisin, The Nation – Business daily, 9 August 2019
I’m a huge fan of the conservation work and ecotourism activities developed by the Watamu Marine Association. On a previous visit I was lucky enough to accompany WMA’s dolphin monitoring team onto the ocean. For over an hour, we watched a pod of 20 dolphins on this same stretch of coast. As soon as the WMA team mentioned that they now organise whale watching tours, I just had to see them!
“If a whale watching boat does not see the animals, a guide or researcher will communicate with the land base which increases the chance of visitors to see whales. When I was with the land team, it was early in the season so we couldn’t see the mother whale and calves that come as close as 500 metres from the shore. However, as I was watching there was a call from one of the boats, Alley Cat, to tell me that I was looking at a whale just slightly outside out of range. In the next few hours, seven whales were seen from the boats in the ocean,” Charlotte says.
She has always been fascinated by whales; their size, grace and eerie, unusual songs. “I’m terrified of deep water so I have immense respect for how whales live and the many thousands of miles they swim every year as they migrate.”
Last week I travelled to Watamu to meet Jane Spilsbury and Steve Trott of the Watamu Marine Association. They work closely with Hemingways Watamu, Kenya’s first hotel to offer whale watching excursions.
The whale migration through Kenyan waters normally starts at the beginning of July and ends in September (although sightings have been made as late as November in some years). “It is expected that the whales will start to increase in numbers as the migration peaks in August,” says Jane. In October, the whales make their 5,000 km return journey to Antartica, their main feeding area. During the peak month of August, humpbacks – said to be “among the most acrobatic of whales” – can even be seen from shoreside bars and hotels such as Hemingways and Ocean Sports Bar. The whale watching tours follow WMA’s responsible whale watching guidelines.
How much does it cost to go whale watching in Watamu?
Whale watching costs between $450 and $100 for a morning or afternoon boat trip that lasts about 4 hours. There’s a good chance of seeing other marine mammals such as sea turtles and dolphins on a whale watching trip.
Would you believe it – these are the teeth of a Sperm Whale!
In 2018, the 17 metre long body of a Sperm Whale (Physeter macrocephalus) was washed up at Kwale, on the Kenyan coast. My friends at Watamu Marine Association were quick to visit the scene. Watch the story of the beached Sperm Whale unfold. It’s quite something. (One quick thinking local was there to take and print selfies for the crowd who gathered at the scene!)
The Sperm Whale is 1 of 24 marine mammal species identified by the Watamu Marine Association along this stretch of coastline.
Once upon a time, Sperm Whale teeth were much in demand by seamen who used the teeth to carve intricate images. This artwork was known as scrimshaw. The image was scratched onto the surface of a Sperm Whale tooth using a knife or needle. Scrimshaw art was popular with 19th century whalers.
If you love the sea, there are so many thrilling ways to experience nature in Watamu: snorkeling, whale watching, dolphin monitoring, turtle conservation. (Whatever next – sharks?)
For more information, visit Watamu Marine Association’s web site. To book a whale watching trip between July and September, contact +254 (0) 724170154 / (0)731697356 or fishing.centre@hemingways.co / michael.mwangombe@watamumarine.co.ke
Here is my favourite blog from the coast, all about Kenya’s dazzling marine life: where to snorkel in Watamu.
