BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony

It was with great excitement that I travelled to Rwanda to attend the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony. This event is strictly by invitation only so the Muzungu was honoured to be invited by the Rwanda Development Board, thanks to my friends at The Gorilla Organization (TGO), a British charity whose dedicated international team pull out all the stops to protect the Mountain Gorillas in their native forest habitats straddling the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

As we drove uphill towards the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony website, the roads were lined with children and young people all walking in the same direction, eager to see the pop stars descending on Kinigi for the ‘Festival of the Gorillas.’

Kwita Izina 2013 gorillas Rwanda gorilla naming ceremony

A magical place indeed. The volcanic peaks of the Virungas, approaching the site of Kwita Izina, Festival of the Gorillas

We sat in the ubiquitous white plastic seats and waited for the show to begin. Every few minutes there was an excited cry from the crowd as another celebrity joined the throng. All we could see was a sea of black heads, just visible above the safety barrier. The kids were gathered for the pop stars of course – there was a huge cheer as popular singer Rastaman arrived – we only hoped they would leave the gorilla naming ceremony as conservationists too.

Kwita Izina 2013 Rwandese children

Kwita Izina is hugely popular with local children gorillas Rwanda

One thing is for sure, one way or another, the majority of these young people will benefit from the gorilla tourism industry, the flagship product for Rwandese tourism. Five per cent of the revenue from tourism is invested in communities living around Rwanda’s national parks. This investment is helping change behaviours, changing once-poachers into protectors of the gorillas and wildlife and habitats in general.

Kwita Izina 2013 gorillas Rwanda. A magical place indeed. The volcanic peaks of the Virungas, approaching the site of Kwita Izina, Festival of the Gorillas

Children flocked to take part in the Festival of the Gorillas

The Rwandese Prime Minister welcomed “ambassadors, friends of Rwanda and distinguished guests – and not forgetting the very important residents of Musanze” to Kwita Izina 2013.

Half of Kigali, representatives from Nairobi, Kampala and 61 journalists from across the world made their way to this small town in the Land of a Thousand Hills for the ninth annual conservation celebration. Not a bad show for a small country the size of Wales.

Kwita Izina 2013 gorillas Rwanda. A magical place indeed. The volcanic peaks of the Virungas, approaching the site of Kwita Izina, Festival of the Gorillas

A smiling Rwanda Development Board ranger welcomed us to Kwita Izina 2013

The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is a very inclusive affair. Over 30 countries were represented at Kwita Izina in 2013. As each country’s name was read out, its representatives stood up to the applause of the audience: the muzungu was delighted to stand up and represent Uganda, from whence I’d travelled on another legendary bus journey.

Kwita Izina 2013 gorillas Rwanda. A magical place indeed. The volcanic peaks of the Virungas, approaching the site of Kwita Izina, Festival of the Gorillas

Traditional dancing from Rwanda’s National Ballet was a delight. Kwita Izina 2013

 

Traditional dancing from Rwanda’s National Ballet was a delight. Reggae artists Dr Claude and King James went down like a house on fire! I was happy to get on my feet and dance by then. Goodness knows the foothills of the volcanoes are a lot cooler than Kampala. The Muzungu should have worn socks!

 

Jillian threw a frisbee into the crowd of Kwita Izina festival goers. gorilla naming ceremony

Jillian threw a Gorilla Organization frisbee into the expectant crowd of festival goers. Did she get it back…?

The lady MC reminded us that “while we are here to celebrate Rwanda’s gorillas, you can see how much more Rwanda has to offer.” Well organised, professional and a fun day out, I was very impressed by the whole setup and the global ambition of this event.

Audience participation is a key feature of Kwita Izina. Amongst the international celebrities invited to name the gorillas were the American actor Isaiah Washington; the Japanese Ambassador to Rwanda; actors from Nigeria and the Netherlands; the economist Jeffrey Sachs and Secretary General of the UN World Tourism Organization, Dr. Taleb Rifai. You can watch the highlights of the 2013 Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony here.

Each gorilla was named, in English and in Kinyarwanda, to claps and murmurs of approval from the audience. The first baby gorilla to be named was Icyamamare Maktub or ‘Rising Star.’ I liked the name Isimbi ‘Shining Pearl’ said to “represent the shining light of Africa: Rwanda. We look forward to shining the light on tourism in Rwanda.”

Emmanuel The Gorilla Organization Kwita Izina. gorilla naming ceremony

Emmanuel, looking very cool in his traditional costume, was honoured to name a gorilla at Kwita Izina 2009

 

The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an opportunity to publicly thank the conservationists closest to protecting these great apes.

In 2009, The Gorilla Organization’s Rwanda Programme Manager Emmanuel was invited to name one of the gorillas.

Jillian The Gorilla Organization Kwita Izina. gorilla naming ceremony

The Gorilla Organization’s Jillian Miller at Kwita Izina 2009 – looking very glam in her Kwita Izina attire

 

In 2009, the UN Year of the Gorilla, The Gorilla Organization’s Executive Director Jillian Miller and Ian Redmond O.B.E. (Ambassador for Year of the Gorilla and now Chairman of TGO) were invited to take part in the gorilla naming ceremony. Jillian’s gorilla was named ‘Everlasting’. Ian’s gorilla was named Umuganda meaning ‘working together.’ You can watch Ian Redmond’s UN Year of the Gorilla speech at Kwita Izina here.

Putting on the traditional costume and being part of the show sounded great fun!

 

Ian Redmond O.B.E. Chairman of The Gorilla Organization at Kwita Izina 2013. gorilla naming ceremony

Ian Redmond O.B.E. Chairman of The Gorilla Organization at Kwita Izina 2013 with Allison Hanes of Art of Conservation

 

Audience participation is not just reserved for the celebrities: everyone was handed a sheet showing photos of the new baby gorillas, so we could write down the new names as they were read out.

 

Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda list of baby gorillas. gorilla naming ceremony

The printed photos and list of new baby gorillas make the event fun and educational. Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda. (Can you read the Muzungu’s handwriting?)

 

“It’s a bit like playing bingo!” Jillian joked.

bingo

The Kinyrwanda gorilla name ‘Ubukerarugendo’ translates as ‘the early travellers – who woke up early to take a trip.’ “You could say this is the first word for tourism and represents the importance of tourism in Rwanda” said the Secretary General of the UN World Tourism Organization.

What is Kwita Izina?

The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an idea based on the Rwandese tradition of inviting the community to name a newborn child. In Rwanda, it is customary to delay naming a child until some of its characteristics are known. (If you look through some of the names of the 161 gorillas named since Kwita Izina started, many give an insight into the individual gorillas’ temperament and family history). The community join together and party to celebrate this new life.

Dian Fossey painting with gorilla Rwanda

The Gorilla Organization was previously known as the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. This painting of Dian hangs in the TGO office in Musanze, Rwanda.

After the gorilla naming ceremony, at Hotel Muhabura (‘the guide’ in English) in Musanze – made famous by the late Dian Fossey – we had a chance to meet Rosette Rugamba, the creator of this must-attend conservation and tourism event.

Rosette Rugamba and Jillian Miller Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda. gorilla naming ceremony

Rosette Rugamba, the creator of Kwita Izina, with Jillian Miller of The Gorilla Organization, Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda

I asked Rosette her view on the international success of Kwita Izina?

“When we started this event we had a big vision: to make sure that gorillas continue to be recognised but also to help, in a big way, to change the image of Rwanda. As much as we are honoured to be the custodians of these wonderful creatures, these animals belong to the whole world. That is such a huge responsibility.

So we created a public event. The world needs to watch over us to make sure that we’re making this happen and to celebrate the birth of the gorillas. We continue to be held accountable and the international community realises they have a role in the success of gorilla conservation too.

There was always a concern that tourism might have a bad effect on conservation but it’s proven that responsible tourism can actually contribute to conservation.

Nine years after the creation of Kwita Izina, I think we have come a long way in achieving our objectives. The government is still committed, and has been right from the start.

This is the format of an event that brings in everybody. When we held the first Kwita Izina, 94 nationalities had come to trek the gorillas in Rwanda. Now, I think you could say the whole world has been: someone from every country has trekked the gorillas in Rwanda. Gorillas are symbolic creatures and Rwanda is just lucky.

“I look forward to next year” said Rosette, “10 years of Kwita Izina – a decade!”

 

Kwita Izina 2013 painting of gorillas Rwanda. gorilla naming ceremony

This painting of a gorilla family hangs in The Gorilla Organization office in Musanze, Rwanda. The TGO Resource Centre is open to the public

 

For a premium, visitors to Musanze’s Hotel Muhabura can now stay in cottage number 12, where Dian Fossey regularly stayed on her visits down from the mountains. Dian Fossey’s cottage has been maintained to ‘honour a life dedicated to gorilla conservation.’

If you’d like to learn more about the work of The Gorilla Organization, click here.

 

Would you like to attend Kwita Izina? Would you like to trek the Mountain Gorillas?

If you’re travelling to Rwanda at the time of Kwita Izina, you are invited to attend the event. Invitations need to be issued in advance and the date does change from year to year so you are advised to check the Kwita Izina section of the Rwanda Development Board website or contact me directly. This would be the perfect time for you to trek the mountain gorillas yourself! Contact the Muzungu for more information on buying gorilla trekking permits in Rwanda or trekking the Mountain Gorillas in Uganda.

50 reasons why I love Uganda

As one of the shiny new fighter jets flies over my house, no doubt practising for this Tuesday’s independence day fly-past, I’m mulling over the week-end papers, full of stories about Uganda@50 and what the last 50 years of independence have meant to Uganda. Is the country better or worse off as an independent nation? What does the future hold? Will the celebrations be hijacked by anti-government protesters? Will there be tears before bedtime?

I’m no expert on Ugandan politics (although the muzungu is very proud of her politics degree from SOAS) – so let’s leave the analysis to the pundits and have some fun.

So, to celebrate the 50th anniversary of independence, I thought I’d share with you my top 50 reasons why I Love Uganda.

I Love Uganda logo
I Love Uganda! ’tis true

1. Airtime. Everywhere you go, every shop, bar or street corner can sell you mobile phone credit, for as little as 200 Uganda shillings (a few cents or pennies).

2. Boda boda. There are 100,000 of these motorbike taxis in Kampala. Huge fun but use with extreme caution. Don’t expect them to hang around if you have an accident. Read How to ride a boda boda. 

Boda bodas Uganda
Boda bodas Uganda

3. Birds, birds birds. I LOVE BIRDS! And Uganda has over 1000 species: pretty, beautiful, stunning, huge, noisy, elegant, comical, graceful, they’re all here.

Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill. Kibale Forest edge
Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill. Kibale Forest edge. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin

4. Bus Journeys. Hmmm am I crazy? Frankly, any bus journey could be your last but one of my favourite memories is taking a bus from Kasese down to Butogota. 10,000 shillings for a free Safari as we drove down through Maramagambo Forest sighting elephants. Ahh.

5. Cappuccino. I love Ugandan coffee, just don’t serve me Star coffee powder!

6. Chimps at Ngamba Island. I fell in love with the hilarious chimps.

Ngamba Island Uganda chimp fingerface PHOTO www.chrisaustria.com
Ngamba Island Uganda chimp fingerface PHOTO www.chrisaustria.com

7. Dancing. Africans invented dance! Try keeping me off the dancefloor.

8. Dogs – ‘the boys’ Baldrick and Percy. These recycled street dogs light up my day. Always happy to see me, following me around until I give them what they want – food and a chance to escape the compound and chase a goat.

Baldrick USPCA dog show Kampala Diary of a Muzungu
Baldrick Superdog came First in the Dog with the Waggiest Tail competition at the USPCA dog show

9. Driving in Kampala. Yes the traffic is a nightmare, yes the potholes wreck your car, but there’s something quite liberating about driving through this city at times. Careering over the wrong side of the road to dodge potholes can be fun, let’s be honest!

Idi Amin's car Lubiri Palace Kampala
Diary of a Muzungu with Idi Amin’s car Lubiri Palace Kampala

10. Dung Beetles rock!

Dung beetles

11. Elephants brought me to Uganda. (Yeah I know, most people would just get on a plane!)

Bull elephant along the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park - why I love Uganda
Bull elephant feeding along the Kazinga Channel. Can you spot the hippo hiding in front of him?

12. Food menus. Guaranteed entertainment. A menu is simply a guide to what may possibly be available at one given point in time. It does not reflect what is actually in the kitchen.

13. Fruit and vegetables. Huge, fresh, tasty and cheap.

14. Gorillas. I enjoyed the trek through the rainforest as much as meeting Bwindi’s Gentle Giants.

15. Grasshoppers taste greasy and smoky (best dry fried in chilli I’m told).

The muzungu's first taste of grasshoppers - why I love Uganda
The muzungu’s first taste of grasshoppers

16. Greetings! I love the time and care Ugandans take to greet each other properly.

17. The Grey Crowned Crane – previously known as the Crested Crane – is Uganda’s iconic national symbol. The Crested Crane may well be extinct in Uganda within just 20 years, if degradation of the wetlands is not stopped. NatureUganda is leading the campaign to Save the Crane.

Grey Crowned Crane. PHOTO Andy Gooch
The Grey Crowned Crane – commonly known as theCrested Crane – is Uganda’s national bird. PHOTO Andy Gooch

18. Jane Bussman is a British comedy writer campaigning to have Joseph Kony, leader of the LRA, caught. She’s on the ball and she’s hilarious.

19. Jinja, Source of the Nile, interesting colonial architecture, a market that is less congested than Kampala’s – and location for some memorable weekends at Nile River Camp.

20. Kampala Hash House Harriers have taken me to every bar, club – and slum! – across Kampala. The ‘drinking club with a running problem’ meets every Monday night.

21. Kibale Forest is where my friend Julia calls home, ideally at the top of a tree!

22. Lake Victoria. The world’s second largest freshwater lake – and the largest on the African continent – is where we taught our dogs to swim. Even as my feet crunched onto the tiny snails on the lake bed, I seem to have so far avoided Bilharzia! Can dogs catch it too?

A fisherman passes the beach at Munyonyo, Lake Victoria - why I love Uganda
A fisherman passes the beach at Munyonyo, Lake Victoria

23. Lions. Breathtaking – and a lot bigger in real life!

24. Mongooses experience in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

25. Mount Elgon. An unexpected wilderness experience, we climbed through seven habitats in four days and passed only two other groups of people. Would I do it again? Yes. Would I climb Margherita in the Rwenzori’s? One day maybe, but not without getting a LOT fitter first …

26. Muchomo roasted meat. No ‘gizzards’ (entrails) for me. I’m an occasional “chicken on a stick” woman.

27. Mighty Murchison Falls. Isn’t it annoying when you’ve heard the hype about a place then feel disappointed when you get there? GUARANTEE: I promise you won’t be disappointed when you reach the top of the Falls! Read Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron, Murchison Falls.

Top of Murchison Falls. Above the Devil's Cauldron. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Top of Murchison Falls – above the Devil’s Cauldron. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga

28. Music booming out from the church on Sunday morning can drive you to distraction. I love Ugandan music – but I have no idea what I’m singing along to! 😂

29. Namuwongo. Once maligned as a no-go area of Kampala (I found out after living there for a year), I love Namuwongo. Squashed between the industrial area and smarter Muyenga, it’s where I first fell in love with Uganda.

30. Owino market has everything you could ever want to buy, but it’s hard work.

31. Power cuts can drive you crazy. But the romance of candlelight has its moments!

white water rafting River Nile Jinja

32. River Nile. “Bring it on!” I screamed on my first Grade 5 white water rafting expedition. Second time around, I invited a friend to take my place; third time rafting, and I bailed out as the biggest rapids approached! Feeling nervous, learning to trust your guide, screaming with laughter as you successfully (or not!) negotiate the rapids, you’ll certainly never forget a day on the Nile.

33. Rolex or ‘rolled eggs’ – an omelette rolled up in a chapati – is my favourite street food. Bigger than a snack, although no self respecting Ugandan could possibly call a rolex a meal (since that should be served on a plate at a table). Rolex taste best at midnight in Kabalagala on the way home from a bar 😄

TrevorNoahVisitsUganda Wandegeya rolex
#TrevorNoahVisitsUganda or did he?
Trveor Noah gets his rolex fix (allegedly) in Wandegeya, Kampala

Read The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness. 

34. Safari. Every Safari is different. To say that you have “done X Park” when you visited for a day or two just doesn’t make sense. I can’t get enough game drives!

Rothschild's Giraffe, Murchison Falls National Park
Nubian (formerly) Rothschild’s Giraffe, Murchison Falls National Park

35. Sense of humour. Ugandans can charm the pants off you. Difficult situations tend to be dealt with humour (so refreshing after living in London where people quickly resort to shouting and swearing).

36. Simpson. My ‘Ugandan brother‘ has been with me through thick and thin (in fact he became very thin when he was a student, going without food so he could afford the fare to university). He’s my hero! I have a front seat at his graduation. I’m so proud of him.

37. Smoking. Oh yes. Cigarettes are cheap and we spend most of our time outside. No stuffy rules to worry us!

38. Snakes. Would I like to find one in my shower? No, but they do fascinate me.

39. Sunrise and Sunset. A reason to get up early – and later, a reason to have a drink in your hand 🍹

Sunset-over-the-Delta.-Nile-Safari-Lodge-Murchison-Falls-Uganda

40. Tilapia. Best eaten whole, with your hands, on the lake edge at Ggaba.

41. Totems. Having the Ugandan name ‘Nagawa’ – thanks to my friend Rashid – has been a huge icebreaker. It’s given me hours of fun. This name makes me a member of the Nkima red tailed monkey clan. What an honour.

42. Uganda Conservation Foundation. Anti-poaching and human wildlife conflict – a.k.a. anything to do with elephants – is the mission of UCF, whom I volunteered with for nearly three years.

43. Uganda Museum. Dusty and under resourced, the Museum is still a gem. I’ve fallen for its charms.

display of spears at the Uganda Museum
The Uganda Museum contains historical and cultural artefacts – and even the country’s first printing press!

44. Uganda souvenir photo map. This fun project keeps my creative heart thumping.

Uganda photo map COPYRIGHT Andrew Roberts Charlotte Beauvoisin
Map of Uganda courtesy of Andrew Roberts – I personalise these maps with your favourite photos to make “your own map of Uganda” – here’s just one of the many I have made

45. Uganda Waragi is a triple distilled ‘war gin.’ Handbag size bottles available ladies 😉

46. Uglish. Otherwise known as Ugandan English, this language gives us – expats and Ugandans alike – endless laughs. I tried to keep a straight face when Janero told me he had “pregnanted his girlfriend.” To read more funny examples, check out the superb Uglish Facebook page

47. UWEC Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (once Entebbe Zoo) has a cafe overlooking the beach. It’s quite a view! You can see virtually all of Uganda’s big mammals and reptiles at UWEC.

48. Vultures may be ugly but our health depends on them. Fascinating!

49. Weather. Even when it rains, the sun comes out a few minutes later.

50. Writing Diary of a Muzungu has kept me distracted (when Ugandan TV couldn’t) and kept me sane (kind of!) when life hasn’t gone to plan. Thank you so much to everyone who reads this. You make the late nights and the missed week-ends all worthwhile.

50 reasons why I love Uganda – and I could have found more! So  tell me what would be in your top 50 things you love about Uganda?

– I know my Ugandan friends will scream MATOKE! (steamed green banana – compulsory eating for many!)

Do you want to go gorilla trekking in Rwanda?

“Welcome to your home for the next few days” said Eunice, as we sat down for afternoon tea and gorilla trekking travel advice at the outdoor reception of Le Bambou Gorilla Resort, Kinigi in Rwanda.

After 12 hours on the bus, 10 hours from Kampala to Kigali and another 2 hours onto Kinigi, we were delighted to be able to stretch our legs. (I think next time I’ll fly!)

A troupe of dancers from the local village welcomed us with singing and dancing and we watched as passers-by gathered in a neighbouring field to enjoy the singing. What a beautiful way to start our stay. The music stayed with me as we were shown to our private cabin, set among pretty flower gardens. Made of solid volcanic rock, the cabins give you a feeling of total seclusion from the outside world. It felt like home right away, even more so when at dusk a man appeared at our door, his arms laden with firewood, to light a fire for us. It was cold up in the mountains. (Staying on the edge of Volcanoes National Park should have been a clue to the weather, I guess!)

rwanda gorilla trekking travel advice
The late afternoon sun cast long shadows across the tarmac road as we approached Le Bambou Gorilla Village from Musanze (Ruhengeri), Rwanda. We fell in love with the grey outline of the volcanic peaks of Volcanoes National Park

What’s on the breakfast menu?

We ate well at Le Bambou Gorilla! Breakfast comprised freshly fried samosas, delicious omelettes and the tastiest yellow yolked eggs, the best passionfruit juice we’d ever tasted, local honey (crystallised in the cool mountain air), tea or coffee (Rwandese of course!) and more fabulous fresh fruit. There was, of course, the ubiquitous Blueband margarine! – the favourite spread on many an East African breakfast table.

How much is gorilla trekking in Rwanda?

Many people only know Kinigi or Musanze for gorilla trekking, but there’s a variety of ways to spend your time. Enjoying the peace and the wonderful views should not be underestimated!

Here are the current prices to track gorillas in Rwanda. We didn’t trek the gorillas that week-end – although I have since. Trekking the gorillas in Rwanda is quite a different experience to Diary of a Muzungu’s gorilla trekking in Uganda – but both were superb!

If you need advice on buying Rwanda gorilla permits, please contact the Muzungu.

What tourist activities are there in Kinigi area of Rwanda?

The local area, formerly known as Ruhengeri, is best known for being the Rwandan access point to see the Mountain Gorillas and so, on our first morning, we hitched a lift down to the entrance to Volcanoes National Park, just for a nose. Here you can visit the site of Kwita Izina the annual Gorilla Naming Ceremony, see beautiful bamboo huts, read more about the life of the Mountain Gorilla and visit a good quality craft shop, whose profits all benefit the local community. I came back to Kampala laden with baskets and woven pots!

rwanda gorilla trekking travel advice
Spot the difference? Muzungu hanging out with relatives – mural at Le Bambou Gorilla
  • The Kinigi park entrance is also departure point for walking and hiking tours of the imposing Sabyinyo volcanic peak
  • ‘Birding’ – or birdwatching
  • The grave of world-famous primatologist Dian Fossey is within walking distance.
  • Gisenyi, on the shore of Lake Kivu, is two hour’s drive away and transport can be arranged through Le Bambou. Lake Kivu is the largest of Rwanda’s lakes and offers a wide range of beach and water sports.

  • Boys in Musanze market. rwanda gorilla trekking travel advice
    Boys in Musanze market, Rwanda, are more reserved than Ugandan kids – but still always happy to have their photo taken!
    • To really get a feel for a place, a visit to the local market is an absolute must. As our hosts toured Musanze market doing their weekly shop, we caused quite a stir by trying the Yellow Passionfruit and the Tree Tomatoes (a cross between Passion fruit and Pomegranate) and sharing our fresh popcorn with the local kids.
    • Cultural village and village walk.
    • Musanze Caves, on the outskirts of Musanze town (not far from Kinigi) are a relatively new attraction, now open to tourists. Guided tours are available.

    Any Rwanda travel tips to share?

    • The Rwandese speak Kinyarwanda, a Bantu language similar to those of Western Uganda and Burundi. Although English is now the official ‘lingua franca’ language, many people still only speak French – or speak neither English nor French! Travel with a phrase book or a local guide if you can.
    • Beware the Akabanga chilli oil! The small plastic bottle – on every dining table – of what looks like eyedrops is in fact a noxious equivalent of West Indian scotch bonnet sauce. Seek directions before use!
    • Tourist visas: British passport holders (like me) have to purchase an entry visa. Boo. Luckily, Rwandese entry visas can be purchased on arrival. You can also buy them online before traveling.

    Travel tips: how do you travel from Uganda to Kinigi, Rwanda?

    • Public transport is available virtually all the way to the lodge. (We traveled from Kampala, through Kigali). It’s easy, safe and cheap.
    • Although many people would prefer to drive or fly, if you’re on a budget – or simply want to have a more African experience – a selection of bus services run several times a day between Kampala to Kigali. Smaller buses then go north to Musanze, from where you can take a car or ‘moto’ motorbike taxi onto Le Bambou.
    • We chose to travel from Kampala with Jaguar Executive Coaches, recommended to us by Ugandans who have made the trip many times. The buses were clean, on time, comfortable (enough) and we and our luggage all arrived intact, both legs of the trip.

    Le Bambou Gorilla Village, Kinigi, Rwanda is a small independent lodge owned by Jacky Gatera and Emmanuel Mujawayzu.

    DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. I was lucky enough to be given a free night’s stay in return for this blog post. For more information, read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions. This is an edited version of a lodge review I wrote for The Eye Magazine Rwanda.

    Have you been gorilla trekking in Rwanda? What are your Rwanda travel tips?

    Hanging with a baby gorilla!

    Have you ever wanted to go gorilla trekking in Uganda?

    Despite working in conservation in Uganda for nearly three years, tracking the gorillas was never top of my wildlife wish list, until now. I still can’t get enough of safari game drives in Queen Elizabeth and birdwatching all corners of Uganda – but I have to say: today’s trek to see the gorillas was very special.

    Here are the Muzungu’s reasons why gorilla trekking in Uganda should be on everyone’s travel bucket list!

    A gorilla peeks at us through the thick leaves of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Gorilla trekking Uganda

    A gorilla peeks at us through the thick leaves of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Gorilla trekking Uganda

    Bwindi is heavenly. The air is pure. The height and age of the majestic trees are awe-inspiring. Before I came to Uganda, the revered mahogany was just something my great aunt’s table was made of (!) and now there they were growing ahead of me in the forest: century-old mahogany trees.

    After an early start, and a briefing by our Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) guide David, we trekked uphill through a small tea plantation and a field of bananas.

    Briefing Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger Mountain gorilla trekking Bwindi Uganda

    Briefing from Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger before our Mountain gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda. Here we were shown photos to introduce us to the gorilla family members we were hoping to encounter

    “But the other hills we can climb them seated” advised David, as we slid down a muddy hillside to the edge of the forest.

    It was a typical misty Bwindi morning – it’s not called Bwindi Impenetrable (Rain)forest for nothing! Treks to find the gorillas vary; occasionally the gorillas are seen in the grounds of the lodges around Bwindi. Sometimes you may have to walk three, four or even five hours before you find them.

    banana plantation. Mountain gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda

    More mist… climbing through the banana plantation. Mountain gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Uganda

    Uganda Wildlife Authority guides Mountain gorilla trekking Bwindi Uganda

    Our Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) guides helped us every step of the way. Here we slid down a steep slope and traversed a small stream

    The hike through the countryside (one and a half hours in our case) was a big part of the thrill for me: would we turn a corner and find the gorillas right in front of us?

    How would the gorillas react when they saw us?

    And finally, in a dense section of the forest, clambering through the bushes, we met up with another group of UWA rangers who would show us where the group of 10 or more gorillas from the Habinyanja family were feeding and sleeping.

    Silverback Mountain gorilla trekking Bwindi Uganda

    Every gorilla trek is different. We saw the Silverback, although all we could see of him was a mere glimpse of silver grey fur through the foliage. This photo shows how difficult it can be to get a good photo in the dark forest…

    None of the gorillas seemed at all perturbed by our presence, as we shuffled quietly from tree to tree, peering through the dark green of the forest to make out gorilla mothers’ suckling gorilla babies and young adults grooming each other, all just a few metres away from us. Even the Silverback gorilla, the often awesome male leader, slept through our entire visit (grunts notwithstanding).

    But it was the smallest, youngest gorilla that stole the show….

    Mountain gorilla trekking Bwindi Uganda

    Can you spot the baby gorilla? … It hadn’t occurred to me that I’d see a Mountain Gorilla in the trees above my head!

    Hanging out with the baby gorilla. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Gorilla trekking Uganda

    Effortlessly. Hanging out with the baby gorilla. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Gorilla trekking Uganda

    There was no chest thumping, we didn’t get charged at and there were no scenes of drama for the humans to witness on this particular morning.

    Carefree.

    Not to be ignored, the youngest gorilla of the group entertained us to an aerial display, dangling by one arm and pirouetting above us, eye-balling us with those beautiful big dark brown eyes.

    He seemed to share our fascination as we watched, transfixed. I’d trek Bwindi all over again, just to relive those few precious moments.

    Baby gorilla Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Gorilla trekking Uganda

    This moment made the whole hike worth it. Hanging out with the baby gorilla. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Gorilla trekking Uganda

    Uganda gorilla trekking certificate

    Diary of a Muzungu’s (first) gorilla trekking certificate, issued by UWA, the Uganda Wildlife Authority

    Next lifetime, I’m coming back as a Mountain Gorilla!

    September 2013: With over 7 million views, this Uganda gorilla trekking video has been an internet sensation: showing one tourist having the type of wildlife experience we all dream of. Such moments are few and far between. They certainly can’t be manufactured, nor can these animals be coerced – and it just shows how gentle and inquisitive gorillas truly are.

    This wasn’t my first time in Bwindi meeting primates. Coming eye to eye with my totem – the Red-tailed Monkey – is a moment Nagawa (the Muzungu) will never forget!

    Nagawa Diary of a Muzungu. enkima clan Taga painting

    Nagawa AKA Diary of a Muzungu. My totem is enkima, the red-tailed monkey. This painting is by Taga. I adore his art!

    South western Uganda has become famous for gorilla trekking, but there are plenty more activities for tourists nowadays, including canoe trekking across Lake Bunyonyi, hiking the volcanoes of Mgahinga, golden monkey trekking, or hiking across Bwindi. The day-long walk from Buhoma through the thick of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest south to Nkuringo is one of my favourite Ugandan expeditions.

    Before you start this adventure, make sure you have comfortable footwear and some high quality insoles for hiking Globo Surf.” I prefer walking boots that support my ankles but many locals love wearing gum boots. They don’t have much grip (but they certainly keep the ants out!)

    Have you been gorilla trekking in Uganda? I’d love to read your experiences!

    If you’re planning a trip to Uganda, feel free to contact the Muzungu or check out Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking.