The year of saying YES
Revenge travel: with the freedom to travel again, in 2022 I said yes to every travel opportunity that came my way!
Before 2023 swallows me in a frenzy of work, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the 365 days in which I continued to piece my life back together as the world reopened for tourism. Just as we were getting up to speed post-pandemic (with summer bookings almost as busy as 2019) Uganda tourism was dealt a blow by the recurrence of Ebola. Would you believe it, we groaned collectively. Tour operators had only just resumed “real work” after two years of farming goats and washing cars; but anyway THANKFULLY the Ebola outbreak has officially been declared over, so let me say no more.
If 2020 was a write-off, and we “woke up” mid-2021, I’ll sum up 2022 as the year I said a resounding yes to everything. (And if 2021 was the year of the big resignation, surely 2022 must have been the year of the big burnout!) In 2022, I was so busy looking for new opportunities and answering travel queries that there was little time for creative writing on my beloved blog. Don’t worry dear reader – or listener? – in 2023, I promise to inspire you once more! This year’s project is a podcast, launching soon… but first…
Fodor’s Travel’s Complete Guide to the African Safari
One of 2022’s highlights was updating the Uganda and Rwanda chapters of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Fodor’s have been writing guidebooks for over 80 years.
If you’re researching a destination listed in this blog post, know that I have visited them personally in 2022. This means that you can read about them in the Fodor’s Guide or send me an enquiry. This post is a compilation of 2022’s social media updates. Stand-out moments – which made the long drives, Bwindi’s terrible roads, and the endless proof-reading of the guidebook worth it! – include:
UGANDA travel highlights
- Listening to hyenas howling as I stretched out in bed at the glorious Ishasha Wilderness Camp, southern Queen Elizabeth National Park.
- Adding five ‘lifers’ to my bird list in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park during my stay at Mount Gahinga Lodge.
- Celebrating the tenth anniversary of Rwakobo Rock Lodge in Lake Mburo.
- Ferry rides and kayaking in search of otters on the very cool Banda Island, Kalangala (Ssese Islands).
- Dinner at the Bungee Bar overlooking the River Nile at Jinja.
- The Uganda Railway Museum at Jinja railway station.
- Driving across the Nile’s ferocious white waters at Karuma Falls en route to Pakwach and West Nile.
- Being one of the judges of the Miss Rwenzori Tourism Final in Kasese.
- Flying over Lake Victoria and Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes with Aerolink.
- Driving every rocky road around Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from Nkuringo to Rushaga, Ruhija and Buhoma.
- Visiting every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park.
- Buying straw hats in Mbarara!
- Taking a tour of Emburura Farm Lodge.
What an amazing welcome we had from the Batwa community of Mgahinga. Interaction with this ancient forest tribe are always memorable. I asked to have my photo taken with Stephen, one of the elders. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village! What a giggle. I was in Mgahinga near Kisoro to write about Volcanoes Safaris’ Retreat “Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes conservation challenges 2022 to 2050.”
Prince Wasajja of Buganda Kingdom completed the 21km run at the Rwenzori Marathon in western Uganda. Kasese town was painted green and the streets were lined with curious bystanders who couldn’t believe their town had become the talk of the country for a weekend. For many Kampala friends, this was their first visit. That shows you the power of sporting events in putting a destination on the map. 2023 is set to be even bigger for Kasese!
Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog
I was curious to see the new tarmac road that bisects Murchison Falls National Park (still under construction in some areas). I hate that Uganda is drilling for oil in a Protected Area but the drive to the Top of the Falls is certainly easier than before. We all gasped when we were hit by spray from the river! (Thankfully the cameras and phones survived). We passed through Murchison on our way back from Arua in West Nile.
Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron is one of my favourite stories from Murchison.
There is so much to write about West Nile:
- firstly the BIG smiles
- diverse cultures of tribes that are local to the region
- a list of invitations to numerous waterfalls
- mountain hikes
- hot springs
- Emin Pasha’s Fort
- Congolese music
- smoked Angala fish
- Amin’s Trail
- Colourful kitenge material sold by South Sudanese ladies at the Friday market
The people of Arua loved my 10 little-known things to do in Arua written after an earlier visit.
What are we without culture?
Mungu and I spent an enthralling hour with Tutu, Director of the Madi Lugbara Community Museum in Arua, West Nile, northwestern Uganda. I loved the museum’s simplicity. Moreover, the items displayed aren’t dusty items that sit forgotten on a shelf. “Go to the villages in West Nile” says John “and you will see all these items in daily use.”
Protecting traditional culture starts by listening to our elders’ stories, learning the lessons captured by song, engaging with passionate people like Tutu. He brought everything in the museum to life with his insightful, frequently funny, stories. The Madi Lugbara Community Museum is in Arua town. It’s one of many community museums across Uganda. They are mostly run by volunteers and all need our support.
One of the great things about writing a blog is meeting all kinds of interesting people [do say hi!] While I was checking out hotels and restaurants in Kampala for Fodor’s Travel, tour guide Joan came to say hello. She’s a ‘Top Fan’ of my Facebook page so it was wonderful to meet in person. The staff at the 5- star Kampala Serena Hotel are always smart, courteous and friendly. It’s a real privilege to stay there.
On a half-day “boda boda tour” of 7 crater lakes, we stopped at a tea plantation on the edge of Kibale Forest. I was over the moon when one of the tea-pickers handed me the “jerrycan shears” and gave me a chance to pick my own tea! Tea + Ugandan jerrycan invention = pure joy for a Brit like me (a big tea drinker).
Cool way to spend the weekend alert! If you’re looking for a bit of an adventure without traveling far from Kampala, I recommend this half day tour: I jumped in a wooden boat at Ggaba for a 20km bike ride along the marram dirt roads of Mukono. I came back feeling super relaxed… (and dusty and sweaty!) If you have your own bike, you can join Sunday bike rides around Kampala at zero cost. Contact the Muzungu for more info.
RWANDA travel highlights
Stand-out moments included:
- Being back in Rwanda after three long years!
- Eating sambaza fish while listening to Congolese music in Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – a few snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
- Chatting conservation with Rwanda Development Board at Gishwati Mukura National Park, Rwanda’s newest protected area.
- Sipping tea and nibbling homemade biscuits on the terrace at Virunga Lodge, overlooking the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo.
- Gawping in awe at the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, close to the start of the gorilla tracking.
- Having The Best Massage Of My Life at the five-star Maisha Spa at Kigali Serena Hotel.
- Drinking tea on the balcony of Virunga Lodge overlooking Lake Burera.
- Reconnecting with Greg Bakunzi of Red Rocks. Their cool campsite in Musanze is a centre for adventure, art and cultural learning. The community benefit directly from t heourists.
- Hearing stories about Dian Fossey from Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel, where Fossey used to stay.
In May 2022, I saw for myself how easy it is to enter Rwanda at the snazzy new Gatuna “one stop shop” border post.
After years of cross-border bus trips, it was interesting to cross the border in a tourist vehicle. First my guide Rashid had to buy COMESA insurance; at the border he had to ‘clear’ the vehicle with the Uganda Revenue Authority and Immigration. Here we were both issued with an Interstate Pass (part of the East Africa Tourist Visa which all EAC citizens and residents are eligible for). Lastly, our bags were scanned and searched – don’t accidentally carry a cavera (plastic bag) into Rwanda!
In Kigali, Rwanda, we caught up with Dr Andrew G. Seguya who heads the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration (and was the longest serving ED at Uganda Wildlife Authority). GVTC is best known for protecting the mountain gorillas that range between Rwanda, Uganda and the DR Congo. Have you heard of the pledge to protect gorillas? Gorilla tracking tourists are encouraged to commit to protecting the gorillas from human diseases by signing the www.gorillafriendly.org pledge.
Have you visited Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu?
This chilled-out small town borders the DRC town of Goma and is great for a long weekend. The buffet breakfast at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel is to die for! Their new gym opened in time for CHOGM in 2022 and the hotel has added mountain bike hire and birdwatching to their list of activities.
Have you heard of Gishwati-Mukura National Park?
Rwanda’s conservation and tourism visions are bold and inspiring. The new national park, created in 2016, is in fact two (severely degraded) forest fragments. An ambitious plan is in place to develop tourism activities (hiking, birdwatching, chimpanzee tracking and cultural experiences). A tree planting programme is visibly helping prevent soil erosion, protect rivers, improve biodiversity and – crucially – provide firewood for local communities. I’ve been following Gishwati-Mukura’s evolution closely since writing a blog for Albertine Rift Conservation Society in 2019.
Fancy sleeping in Dian Fossey’s room?
Gaudence’s family knew pioneer gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey well and shared some interesting stories about Fossey’s stays there. Did you know you can stay in the very room where Fossey slept? (For a premium price). You can guess where the muzungu wanted to sleep! (Unfortunately I arrived when the room was being renovated).
KENYA travel highlights
Nairobi’s matatus are legendary! Each one is a work of art.
Work it baby (More reasons to celebrate 2022)
Thank you to everyone who voted for me in the Top 100 Women in Travel and Tourism in Africa. I felt honoured to be nominated and bowled over to come at no. 2 in the online vote!
Training assignments led me across East Africa: digital marketing training in Jinja, Kampala, Fort Portal and West Nile; a community-based tourism webinar from Sunbird Hill for the East Africa Tourism Platform. Other work highlights included being speaking live to readers of the U.K.’s Wanderlust Magazine; a digital marketing presentation at Uganda’s inaugural Adventure Tourism Expo; On Uganda podcast interview; judging Uganda’s annual Travel Writing Competition. The year ended on a high with an invitation to Nairobi to co-lead a day discussing responsible tourism (one of my favourite subjects) with Kenyan content creators, Ecotourism Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board. (Thank you Barbara!)
Did 2022’s travels make up for lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest?
That time was enchanting in many ways and I remain grateful every day (as my #LockdownDiaries attest) but I took the isolation hard. I confess: 2022’s carbon footprint was off the scale and this year I am committed to offsetting my travels. I’m also committed to launching a podcast, a project inspired by being locked down with nature. More on that very soon!
Lastly, you’re always welcome to contact me for travel recommendations or check out my Travel Directory.
One to watch: Gishwati – Mukura, Rwanda’s newest national park
Gishwati – Mukura, Rwanda’s fourth national park is the closest to Kigali
On a drive from Lake Kivu towards Musanze, my eyes were drawn to the green cultivated hillsides behind the thin row of houses that line the main road. “This is Gishwati,” said Maurice. “One day it will be a National Park.”
I thought no more of his comment until a year later when I found myself sitting next to Dr Sam Kanyimibwa of the Albertine Rift Conservation Society, the organisation that facilitated the management plan for the new Gishwati – Mukura National Park.
This blog is based on information shared by ARCOS and the Rwanda Environment Management Authority. It’s a little geekier than my normal conservation and adventure stories but what a brilliant and ambitious project! You have to hand it to the Rwandans: they have vision.
Gishwati and Mukura Forests are two remnant forests which were designated as reserves in the 1950s. Although not physically joined, the government of Rwanda decided to establish a new national park that will – in time – link the two forest fragments of Gishwati and Mukura to create Gishwati – Mukura National Park.
Created in 2015, Gishwati – Mukura – Rwanda’s fourth national park – is now the closest National Park to Kigali. “This location is very special. It’s surrounded by tea plantations and pastoralism. It is a very beautiful mountain ecosystem,” Dr Kanyimibwa explained.
Gishwati-Mukura National Park is home to many species that are listed by IUCN as threatened or endangered. Among these is the Eastern Chimpanzee.
“Joining the two forest fragments of Gishwati and Mukura is positive. However, there is the challenge of species isolation,” explains Dr Kanyimibwa. The creation of Gishwati-Mukura National Park GMNP in Western Rwanda is “very interesting in terms of conservation,” he added.
In 2019, Rwanda Development Board (RDB) signed a 25-year concession agreement with Imizi Ecotourism Development to develop and operate “an exclusive chimpanzee and primate trekking experience under the Wilderness Safaris brand” one element in a multi-phased conservation and tourism management programme for the newly formed Gishwati – Mukura National Park.
Where is Gishwati-Mukura National Park?
Gishwati-Mukura National Park lies in North-West Rwanda (1° 49´ S, 29° 22´ E) and is part of the Albertine Rift and Congo-Nile Divide. The park is composed of montane rainforest fragments that are rich in biodiversity. GMNP’s tropical climate has an average temperature ranging between 20° and 24° C, the mean annual rainfall is between 1,500-1,600 mm and the elevation ranges from 2,000 to 3,000m above sea level.
Gishwati-Mukura National Park lies in North-West Rwanda (1° 49´ S, 29° 22´ E) and is part of the Albertine Rift and Congo-Nile Divide. The park is composed of montane rainforest fragments that are rich in biodiversity. GMNP’s tropical climate has an average temperature ranging between 20° and 24° C, the mean annual rainfall is between 1,500-1,600 mm and the elevation ranges from 2,000 to 3,000m above sea level.
History of Gishwati and Mukura Forests
More than hundred years ago, the forests of Mukura and Gishwati covered approximately 253,000 hectares and were Rwanda’s largest indigenous forests.
These forests cover just 3,558 hectares now (1,570 ha on Gishwati and 1,988 ha for Mukura), due to encroachment, large-scale cattle ranching, cattle grazing, resettlement of refugees after the genocide, illegal mining and plantations of non-native trees. If deforestation were to continue at the same pace, these forests would no longer exist by 2020. Subsistence activities such as mining, logging, collection of firewood, charcoal-making and sand quarrying further degrade the environment.
History shows that Mukura Forest, Gishwati Forest and Nyungwe Forest once formed a continuous forest. (The extension of forest into Burundi is known as Kibira Forest).
The creation of a corridor between Gishwati and Nyungwe through Mukura Forest aims to restore the ecological connectivity of these forests.
How is the new Gishwati – Mukura National Park being created?
Although there is more than 20 km of community land between the two forest fragments, conservationists are pinning their hopes on using a river – or more precisely, the land either side of it – to reconnect these two forests. The law states that people must respect 10 metres of land either side of the river – this gives conservationists an entry point. The Rwanda Environment Management Authority is now working to restore the highly degraded Gishwati-Mukura landscape through the “Landscape Approach to Forest Restoration and Conservation (LAFREC)” project.
The plan to connect the patches of forest by an ecological corridor is complicated by a complex mosaic of different land uses between the two forests.
However, the hills and valleys and GMNP are dominated by crops, pasture and non-native trees (mainly eucalyptus and pine).
The main human activity in the mountains around Gishwati-Mukura National Park is small-scale farming of maize, beans, Irish potatoes, bananas, tea and coffee. Some land is also used for pasture for livestock (cows, goats, sheep, and pigs) and forestry.
Biological highlights of Gishwati and Mukura
Although Gishwati-Mukura National Park has suffered a serious loss of biodiversity as a result of deforestation – fauna alone has declined by a mind-boggling 99% – nevertheless, GMNP still hosts significant biodiversity, including:
- 200 species of trees and shrubs including numerous hardwood trees and bamboo.
Many species that are listed by IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) as threatened or endangered, including:
- Eastern chimpanzee. Gishwati-Mukura National Park and Nyungwe National Park (NNP) are the only remaining habitats for Eastern chimpanzees (Pan troglodytes schweinfurthii) in Rwanda.
- Golden monkey (Cercopithecus mitis kandti).
- Mountain monkey or L’Hoest’s Monkey (Cercopithecus l’hoesti).
- More than 200 species of birds, including Albertine Rift endemics Ruwenzori / Rwenzori Turaco (Gallirex johnstoni) and Grauer’s swamp-warbler (Bradypterus graueri).
- Amphibians such as brown forest frogs and multiple species of toads.
- Reptiles that include the Great Lakes Bush Viper and multiple species of chameleons.
- Satinsyi River is home to a highly endangered species of fish (Haplochromis erythromaculatus).
The ecological importance of Gishwati – Mukura National Park
The role played by these forests is vital to the local, regional and national economy.
GMNP channels run-off into the headwaters of Africa’s two largest hydrological systems: the Nile and Congo rivers. Gishwati and Mukura forests – with their many streams and riverbeds – regulate river flow and ensure that water is available throughout the year. The forests absorb and slowly release rainwater, preventing loss of topsoil, (preventing sometimes disastrous landslides). As such, Mukura-Gishwati Forest landscape is crucial for farming and primary industries such as tea and coffee.
The forests are home to birds, bats and insects that pollinate crops and aid in the natural control of insect pests. With massive deforestation, these benefits are not just lost locally but impact is felt miles downstream. Gisenyi town and surrounding areas depend on the Sebeya River for water and electricity. Bralirwa (Rwanda’s main brewery) depends on Sebeya for beer production.
In the future, the riverbank protection and forest plantation initiatives along Sebeya and Satinsyi rivers are expected to restore part of the ecological connectivity of the two forests.
What next for GMNP?
The establishment of Gishwati – Mukura National Park will boost conservation of the forests’ rich biodiversity and help restore habitats and offer better protection of threatened species.
Officials are pushing for the park to be recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Biosphere Reserve. For local people, the new Gishwati – Mukura National Park brings the promise of jobs in the hotels and restaurants that will be established near the park and as guides and souvenir sellers. (Tourism globally employs 1 in 11 people).
Gishwati – Mukura National Park is Rwanda’s fourth national park. The others are Volcanoes National Park, Akagera National Park and Nyungwe National Park.
But can tourists visit now?
According to the Rwandan government’s tourism site, “activities in the park are due to begin in 2019 and include a guided nature hike, guided chimp and monkey tracking, bird watching and a visit to the waterfalls.
Community-based activities include a farm stay, a live cultural dance, making handicrafts, beekeeping, a tea plantation tour and the chance to learn from traditional healers, who use natural plants to support modern medicine and synthesised drugs.”
I’ve attended the highly professional Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony a number of times and was in Rwanda recently when black rhinos were being shipped to the country. Imagine this country’s tourism in a decade or more. It’s really quite something. It looks like exciting times are ahead for this new national park and tourism in general across Rwanda.
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Rwanda
The Muzungu’s top reasons to #VisitRwanda
1 – Go mountain gorilla trekking in the Virunga mountains, northern Rwanda. I have written extensively about gorilla tracking in Rwanda. Click on the links for more information or refer to my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking.
2 – Learn about gorilla conservation. Visit the grave of famous primatologist Dian Fossey and her favourite gorilla, Digit
3 – Rwanda is an eco-tourist’s dream: 670 bird species, 400 butterfly species, primates galore!
4 – Golden monkey trekking is highly recommended!
5 – Enjoy safari game drives in Akagera National Park, bordering Uganda, a ‘small but perfectly formed’ savannah safari destination where animal numbers are on the increase. Read Rhinos to Rwanda: the largest ever transport of rhinos from Europe to Africa begins today.
6 – Take advantage of free WiFi across Kigali! Oh yes! You can even check your email or WhatsApp when you’re on the city’s buses.
7 – Learn about the genocide of 1994. Visit the Gisozi Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali. Incredibly moving and a must-visit experience.
8 – Lie on the tropical beach at Lake Kivu. Rwanda has a number of crystal clear lakes. The sandy beaches and tropical weather of Lake Kivu, shared with neighbouring Democratic Republic of the Congo, make the lake a popular weekend and holiday spot. Gisenyi and Kibuye are two popular resort towns.
9 – Go chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe Forest. Birding in Nyungwe Forest is popular and the forest is home to big groups of Black and White Colobus monkeys. I travelled to Nyungwe Forest with my good friend primatologist chimpanzee expert Julia. Julia Lloyd features in the World Atlas of Great Apes and Their Conservation (and is best known for her work in habituating the chimpanzees of Kibale Forest in Uganda).
10 – Hike the magical volcanoes of the Virunga
11 – Watch fabulous traditional Intore dancing. The traditional culture of Rwanda is evidenced everywhere: the Intore dancers are captivating!
12 – Rwanda is a small, accessible country with good roads
12 – English is the (new) lingua franca and French is spoken by many in the capital and in hotels and tourist destinations
13 – The East Africa Tourist Visa makes travel to Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya more affordable.
The small landlocked country of Rwanda is known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills,” something which you will very quickly appreciate on a road trip. I still have the feeling of being thrown from left to right, right to left, for hours on end, when we drove up and down the hills, round one bend, then back around another, as we travelled from Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, down to Bujumbura, the capital of Burundi. (Historically connected, the two countries share very similar geography).
Rwanda is flourishing, and tourists love to visit this safe and popular little country that has invested heavily in tourism and infrastructure over the last two decades.
Many visitors are lured to Rwanda by the famous and critically endangered Mountain Gorillas, who make their home in the staggeringly beautiful Virunga volcanic chain.
It is even possible to fly into Rwanda for just 24 hours to see the gorillas, but I wouldn’t recommend that, there’s a lot more to Rwanda than the mountain gorillas.
Did you know…? The East Africa Tourist Visa makes it easier and cheaper to combine a trip to Rwanda with a visit to Uganda and Kenya.
Are you planning a Rwanda tour? Check out my Travel Directory or read reviews of 100s of Rwanda tour operators on SafariBookings.com
