Entebbe Airport essentials: baggage & tax
What travelers need to know about revised baggage and tax policies at Entebbe Airport.
Planning a trip to Uganda or returning home after some time abroad? Whether you’re a first-time tourist, a returning resident or expat, or basummer visiting family and friends, it’s essential to be aware of the revised baggage clearance procedures at Entebbe International Airport, announced in July 2024. Here’s a rundown of what you need to know to avoid any surprises at the airport. The updated baggage clearance procedures are crucial for all travelers to understand, especially when it comes to bringing gifts or second-hand items.
Looking for the latest travel health advice at Entebbe Airport? Click here.
The Muzungu adds: when expats travel back to their home country, we often bring back little treats that you just can’t get in Uganda! Marmite, crumpets, dark chocolate digestive biscuits, and Coleman’s English mustard are high on my list! You might not be aware, but we’re not supposed to bring in second-hand laptops, for example, that well-meaning relatives would like to donate to a worthy cause. I’ve never had any problems with customs at Entebbe, but I know they keep a watchful eye on Ugandans who return home with bulging suitcases!
All passenger baggage is scanned at Entebbe Airport after passport control. “If scanner images show any items concealed/hidden, the baggage will be subjected to physical examination by a Customs Officer in the presence of the passenger.” Here’s what you need to know:
Key changes to baggage allowances at Uganda’s Entebbe Airport (and their tax implications)
No. 1. Higher allowances – better baggage values for travelers:
- The allowable limit for the value of passenger baggage has been increased from USD 500 to USD 2000.
- Important notes: This allowance is for personal use only and does not apply to gifts, items for sale, or goods you plan to distribute. This allowance applies to passengers who have been outside Uganda for more than 24 hours.
- The exemption does not apply to goods sent by others for delivery to someone else.
No. 2. Declaring to URA? Bring receipts:
Passengers must declare their baggage to URA officers and provide authentic receipts in the names of the traveling passenger, confirming the value of the items.
No. 3. Know before you go: info for traders
- “Dutiable” goods exceeding 50kg in commercial value will be transferred to the cargo terminal for customs clearance. Here, traders will have to use their tax identification numbers.
- Included in this category are phones and phone accessories, shoes, perfumes, vehicle spare parts, and IT equipment.
No. 4. Be aware of prohibited and restricted items
- Prohibited items include used fridges, second-hand computers/laptops, TVs (and even second-hand underwear!). You may ask: why are used laptops prohibited yet Ugandan schools in rural areas can’t afford to buy new ones? According to the URA, “Used computers were prohibited in the Finance Act of 2009. This is largely aimed at protecting the environment. When the government banned used computers, it dropped the import duty to 0% for new laptops.”
- Restricted items require clearance before you enter Uganda. Examples include drones and animal products or items related to wildlife. Penalties for importing or exporting wildlife products (elephant or hippo ivory, teeth, animal skins, pangolin scales, and more) are very high.
No. 5. Booze and smokes: Duty-free allowances explained:
Call this a party? Hmmm. You’re allowed to bring in the following without paying duty:
- Spirits: Up to 1 litre
- Wine: Up to 2 litres
- Perfumes and eau de toilette: Up to 250ml
- Tobacco/cigarettes: Up to 250 grams
No. 6. Kuli kayo! Welcome home: What you can bring tax-free as a returning resident:
- Ugandan residents returning after at least one year abroad can bring personal and household effects without paying taxes, provided the items were used in their previous residence. These individuals will also clear their items through the cargo terminal.
- Prohibited items will be forfeited “after payment of the applicable penalty.”
No. 7. Pay taxes quickly (to avoid the cargo terminal):
- Passengers who arrive with goods they need to pay duty on must pay the relevant taxes within two hours to avoid congestion. Non-compliance will result in the baggage being transferred to the cargo terminal.
This information is based on my summary of an article published by the Uganda Revenue Authority.
I haven’t listed all restricted or prohibited items because I’m not an expert (just a regular traveller who likes sharing a few tips). For more information about customs, read URA Customs FAQs.
I regularly travel through Entebbe Airport. If you have any questions about visas, travel health – or any other aspect of travel to Uganda, you’ll find this page very helpful.
Looking for a tour operator or lodge? Check out my travel directory.
Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED]
This page is updated regularly and supercedes all previously published Uganda health-related travel info. Here I share updates on disease outbreaks and health screening at Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport.
Tropical diseases in Uganda
We praise the Pearl of Africa for her astounding biodiversity (so we shouldn’t be surprised that’s reflected in the bacteria and viruses too!) That said, the country is quick to nip outbreaks in the bud: Ebola, Marburg and Zika are just a few of that have hit the headlines. Thankfully, Uganda has high level support from international medical agencies, such as the US Center for Disease Control, and my advice to travelers is: try not to worry about any of these (very rare) diseases. (I’ve lived in Uganda for 15 years by the way). In my opinion, the Ministry of Health’s X account is the best source for the latest health info.
COVID-19 in Uganda – summary
UPDATE September 2024: I have been through Entebbe Airport this month and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or even “Yellow Fever certificate.” HALLELUJAH.
At the time of writing, a small number of cases of M-pox have been identified in Uganda (and Rwanda and the DRC) but we are not unduly worried. M-Pox is infectious but can easily be treated with antibiotics.
Arrivals at Entebbe Airport
The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:
- Sanitise hands [now optional].
- Have documents checked:
- Yellow Fever certificate [mine wasn’t checked in September 2024].
- Pass through immigration. (If you are a tourist, it’s imperative that you apply for your Uganda tourist visa online in advance. Some airlines will not allow you to board without your visa approval letter. For the latest info, read Uganda tourist visas and East Africa Tourist Visas. I frequently answer visa-related enquiries.
- Collect your checked-in luggage.
- If you need an ATM or Forex (foreign exchange), you can access both by the baggage carousel.
- Pass luggage (including cabin bags) through scanner.
- If you are a tourist, the Uganda Tourism Board has an information desk and seating just past the baggage collection area. UTB staff are on hand to make phone calls and order taxis, for example. This service is available for all tourists, 24 hours a day, even for those who travel independently. This initiative is spearheaded by Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board.
- Entebbe Airport has free WiFi.
- Exit airport.
- Enjoy fabulous Ugandan weather!
Departures from Entebbe Airport
- (Although this advice is historical, I can’t confirm that every destination has removed pandemic restrictions).
- Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
- The muzungu adds: I advise having a screenshot or print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate. Print facilities are available at Entebbe Airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.
Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary
There’s a “neglible” risk of getting Yellow Fever in Uganda, however you will need to show proof of vaccination.
A Yellow Fever vaccination is now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. Got a question? In “Ask the Travel Doc,” Dr Natalie Prevatt answers traveler FAQs about Yellow Fever.
Which diseases should I worry about if I’m travelling to Uganda?
Your biggest health concern should be How to avoid malaria. I’m not medically qualified but I have plenty of personal tips to share, based on my 15 years living in Uganda. You might also enjoy Uganda travel advice I ignored!
Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? The Travel Directory has a list of tour operators who can help you plan a trip. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel questions.
A world class welcome at Entebbe Airport
Is it safe to travel to Uganda during COVID-19? Standard Operating Procedures at Entebbe International Airport
Yesterday I flew into Entebbe Airport from Moi International Airport (Mombasa), Kenya with Uganda Airlines. Uganda has pulled out all the stops to make a great first impression of the country. I was very impressed with the efficiency of the whole process!
This is a summary of my experience at around 11pm Sunday 4th July 2021. For the latest COVID-related travel updates from Entebbe Airport, read my Latest news for travellers to Uganda. I am endeavouring to update this blog regularly but it’s difficult to keep track of accurate info. If in doubt, you can always message me directly.
When you arrive at Entebbe Airport, you will be asked to show your passport, Yellow Fever certificate and negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate (an antigen test is not enough). Your temperature is taken automatically by a contactless Ipad-type screen. There were two lines of people for this and we moved very quickly. There were approximately 50 passengers in the arrivals hall when my Uganda Airlines flight from Mombasa landed. It took me around 15 minutes from entering the airport terminal building to exiting immigration. That is record timing!
My bags were already on the carousel by this time so I picked them immediately and then passed everything through the baggage scanner. Before exiting the airport building, three staff members asked where I had flown from and checked my passport. There were large graphics detailing the category one (highest risk) and category two (medium risk) countries and the restrictions that apply to each. Airport staff asked where I had traveled from (at the time of writing, Kenya is classed as a category two country) and whether I had been vaccinated. I showed proof of my two AstraZenecca (Covishield) vaccinations and they gave me a tiny slip of paper that I then handed to another two staff just outside the building. This slip of paper said I was ‘cleared to exit’, meaning I did not need any further PCR tests.
Do you need a PCR test to enter Uganda?
Another traveler arrived from Kenya with me. He said he had not been vaccinated and was told to go and have another PCR test. This he will have to pay $65 for. Entebbe Airport arrange the (complimentary) transport to the test site (a hotel in Entebbe). Travelers say the test process usually takes two to four hours before you can continue with your journey. You can wait for your results at the hotel (there is Wi-Fi, refreshments and charging points) or go and rest at one of the ‘designated hotels.’
NOTE: it has been proposed that everyone arriving at Entebbe Airport will need to a) have a negative PCR certificate plus B) have a PCR test on arrival, regardless of your vaccination status and where you are traveling from. You will need to check my Latest COVID-related news for Uganda blog to see whether that is going ahead or not.
The rules at Entebbe International Airport are clear and EVERY passenger and staff member followed the protocols (COVID-19 SOPs) throughout. Forget excuses, masks hanging off ears etc, everyone was doing the right thing.
600,000 Ugandans rely directly or indirectly on tourism so we’ve been absolutely devastated by the pandemic. Even this seasoned traveller was dreading flying with all the extra tests, masks and more so it was a huge relief to pass through Entebbe Airport so quickly.
Clearly the world is starved of positive news. Kudos to all the teams at Entebbe who are working to help #restarttourism
As you know, things change daily with travel restrictions and openings everywhere. If you need travel advice you are welcome to contact me directly.
July 28, 2021: I have passed through Entebbe International Airport a number of times in the past two months. You can read about the check-in / Departures experience here.
History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a mobile app
The launch of three free maps, a free mobile app and a book of photography gives unprecedented information about Uganda’s architectural heritage at 60+ sites across Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe.
This is your chance to explore – and help preserve – Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe’s 60+ historical buildings and sites – and it’s nearly all FREE!
One of the (few) things that I miss about Europe is the architecture. The continent’s rich history is preserved and celebrated through houses and office blocks, castles, and palaces. The collective history of these buildings can be traced back centuries.
My early career was spent working with architects in London and my mantra was always to ‘look up’ – to explore what was going on above street level, beyond the modern signage and the shop facades.
Uganda has some interesting old buildings but many are under threat from developers who would rather put up something new than re-purpose an existing structure. Although some buildings may look dilapidated now, there’s no reason why most can’t be given a face lift. In Europe, heritage is a big business.
I was therefore delighted when Verity from CCFU told me all about a brilliant initiative that aims at preserving what remains of Uganda’s unique built heritage. I have visited the Baha’i Temple and Jinja’s old buildings fascinate me; I often wonder at the history of the old buildings along Kampala Road. It’s now easier than ever for you to explore these and many more places yourself. If you work in tourism, how can you include these places on a tour?
Uganda’s Built Heritage – a free mobile phone app
The app features over 60 buildings that represent Uganda’s architectural history, covering the pre-colonial era and post-independence Uganda.
Uganda’s Built Heritage app brings Uganda’s history to life as you walk or drive down the street!
- See photos, descriptions and contact information for historical sites and buildings
- Read overviews of each town and city
- Plan walking or driving routes between historical sites
- Set up alerts to notify you when you pass historical places
- Share your discoveries with friends online
Click here to download Uganda’s Built Heritage app from Play Store (Android) or App Store (iPhone). The app is free
Maps – explore the historical sites of Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe
Three high-quality maps have been produced to help tourists and members of the public understand and appreciate the history around us. The maps detail the historical buildings and sites for each of the three cities with a clear annotated street plan.
- A Map of Kampala’s Historical Buildings and Sites
- A Map of Jinja’s Historical Buildings and Sites
- A Map of Entebbe’s Historical Buildings and Sites
Click on the links above to download PDF versions of each map or visit the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda
“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks – Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe” photographic book
“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks: Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe” presents beautiful pictures that were taken exclusively for this project. The narrative sets the 60+ locations in their historical, social and political contexts and highlights why they still matter today.
This book bears witness to the richness of Uganda’s historical buildings and sites (some hidden, some prominent) surrounding us in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe. From the legacy of pre-colonial kingdoms to the introduction of western education, medicine, and religions, the growth of commerce and industry, through to Uganda’s forging a new independent identity, this book documents the country’s story through those historical buildings and sites that still stand today.
The book is available at Aristoc, Kardamom & Koffee (KAR Drive in Kololo), Entebbe airport departure lounge bookshop and from CCFU’s office on Makerere Hill. The book is priced at 150,000 UGX.
Background to this project
Urbanization, rapid population growth and the drive for modernity have created a constant demand for higher-density development (such as multi-story apartments). These are often on plots which are already occupied by historical buildings and sites. As a result, many heritage sites have already been lost forever. The risk of losing more of the county’s heritage is real and needs to be addressed as a matter of urgency.
Loss of historic sites means a lost connection with a shared past. Without the unique features of the built environment, one Ugandan city risks becoming indistinguishable from any other. Each building has a story to tell about the people who lived or worked there and about the history of Uganda.
This issue is recognized internationally through Sustainable Development Goal 11, reflecting a global realization that many urban cities are expanding fast and risk losing their historical and cultural identity if heritage infrastructure and associated cultural values are not preserved and promoted.
National and local government are strongly encouraged to “identify, list, protect and promote historical properties in their respective cities and to serve as examples of preservation champions to other municipalities.”
On African World Heritage Day 2019, the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) with support from the European Union together with Ugandan partners launched a mobile app, three maps, and a photographic book. The aim of the project? To protect the posterity of historical buildings and sites in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe.
The three products illustrated here are the result of a year-long collaboration to mark the 2018 European Year of Cultural Heritage “which provided an ideal opportunity to share the European experience with like-minded Ugandan institutions.” The Embassy of Ireland is also acknowledged for its role in the early days of this project.
The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) is a national not-for-profit NGO, dedicated to promoting the recognition of culture as vital for human development that responds to Uganda’s national identity and diversity. CCFU was founded in 2006, premised on the conviction that positive aspects of culture can be harnessed to bring about social and economic transformation. For more information visit the CCFU web site email ccfu@crossculturalfoundation.or.ug or call +256 (0)393 294 675 / 7.
If you enjoy history, you might like my pictures of Kampala railway station and Nairobi railway station.
Take time to explore these great resources from CCFU. Our children may thank us one day.
Airport drama # 1- “The plane is closing!”
If I’m honest, I’ve lived on ‘African time’ before I lived in Africa… but even when I make a timely plan, something seems to crop up to delay me.
‘African time’ and international flight departures do not mix. This is just one of the muzungu’s series of airport dramas! This one took place at Entebbe International Airport, Uganda.
This time I thought I was prepared.
I was at the airport on time.
I had looked at the Emirates website but could not work out how much I would be charged for the additional luggage I was taking home for a friend. I had therefore guessed I would just pay an extra $50 per bag (the amount I’ve paid with other airlines). All I saw was a note on their web site saying that because the connecting flight was provided by a third party, I would have to take the bags to the airport and pay the excess baggage fee there.
At Entebbe International Airport, a man called Ken very helpfully shrink-wrapped my four bags into just three. (I thought this would be a good ploy for outwitting the system, and hoped that I would just be charged for three excess bags not four).
I was rather pleased with myself.
At the check-in desk, I somehow lifted the bags onto the weighing scale. They registered a total of 44 kg.
“That will be $960 please Madam.”
“What?!” I blurted out.
$960? She even said it with a straight face.
“You must be joking!” I slammed back at her. “I don’t have that kind of money, so what am I supposed to do?”
She was totally unhelpful.
I tried to bargain with her but she said once it had registered on the system, there was no negotiation. I searched her face for an answer.
“You can just give it away or throw it,” she said.
And then I saw red.
I had been willing to pay one hundred dollars or so for extra baggage but after the way she talked to me, I decided I wasn’t going to give the airline a single extra dollar.
“The plane is closing!” Shouted one of the airport staff. So much for my normal view that ‘Ugandans are so friendly’, these two ladies and a gentlemen were particularly unhelpful.
“I tried to pay for the excess baggage online but there was no information!” I shouted back at them.
I then proceeded to claw apart my beautifully shrink-wrapped bags.
In a panic, I ran over to Ken and begged for his help. He obliged with a razor blade and delicately sliced through our 20 minutes of wrapping. (I just hoped he wasn’t going to slice straight through the canvas material of the bag as well!)
What to take with me? What to leave behind?
I broke out into a sweat as I tried to quickly decide what to leave and what to take with me. My friend had paid for my air ticket; I couldn’t leave his stuff behind. But what was I going to wear for my three weeks away if I just took his stuff?
“I can’t afford to miss another plane. My family will never let me live it down!” I thought to myself.
Knickers and bras flew left and right, much to the hilarity of the staff, as I panicked my way through my bags. (What a great time for them to regain their sense of humour – at the Muzungu’s expense…) Isn’t it funny how I didn’t laugh with them?
My driver wasn’t picking my call; he had gone to attend a burial. There was no way I could speak to him and arrange for him to come back and collect my stuff before I got onto the plane and switched my phone off.
Decisions, decisions…
“Ken,” I asked him, “can I trust you?”
There was nothing else to do but to trust this guy. I certainly wasn’t going to ditch my stuff in the airport for the unhelpful staff to take home.
I handed over a 20,000 Uganda shilling note – and two bags full of my personal belongings and my friend’s expensive whiskey – with phone numbers of a couple of friends who I hoped would follow up for me.
As I rushed towards the plane, Ken came running after me to check I had written the phone numbers down correctly. He seemed honest enough.
… And then I sat on the plane twiddling my thumbs for half an hour! (All the time worrying what I had left behind, and whether I would see any of it ever again)
The long-term effect of the momentary madness at Entebbe was felt throughout my trip: I was to realise 24 hours later that, in the pandemonium, I had left behind my phone recharger and my laptop recharger.
A big thank you to Honest Ken. He helped me in my hour of need and everything was still in my bag when my driver picked it up from Entebbe the next day!
If you enjoyed the image of the Muzungu panicking, write me a comment below. Airport drama # 2 is not far behind!
Have you seen my aerial photos of Lake Victoria and Kisoro? Taken on board domestic flights with Aerolink.
“Eyes turned upward” – aerial photos of South Western Uganda
“When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned upward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.”
Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), painter, artist, engineer & Renaissance genius, Florence, Italy
The Muzungu was looking forward to escaping the sticky city of Kampala for some cool weather and the distant hum of village life. In fact, I was so excited about my imminent departure to Kisoro (and then onto Mgahinga, Virunga and Kigali) that I was ready early: 24 hours early to be precise! Yes, my family may tease me for the missed flights and the missed trains, but not this time. At 5.15 in the morning – indeed! – I stood outside my house, bags packed, waiting for the driver to pick me up…
The Sunday morning flight from Entebbe International airport took off at 7:45 AM.
The check-in process for domestic flights in Uganda is the same as for international flights; however, once you’re through security in the departure lounge, you are up in the air within minutes.
Clean, and with plenty of legroom, there were enough free seats for everyone in our group to have a window seat.
One of the pilots welcomed us on board and told us the emergency procedures. “Behind the seat in front of you, there is a sick bag, in case you need it.” I couldn’t help but notice his tiny, cheeky chuckle.
But we weren’t to need it, the Aerolink flight was smooth as smooth can be.
Our flight took us over Uganda’s former capital of Entebbe. As we flew over the shore of Lake Victoria, we passed over Uganda Wildlife Education Centre UWEC and the departure point for the boat to Ngamba Island, home of the Chimpanzee Sanctuary Wildlife Trust.
The low, early morning sun glimmered on the lake beneath us.
Islands – inhabited and non-inhabited – spread out below us, caught in outline by the rising sun.
Small wooden canoes passed beneath our plane, en route to fish in the depths of the lake.
Flying west, we flew inland over dozens of lakes and waterways, swamps and wetlands. Lake Mburo is a popular weekend destination for Kampala expats, and a convenient stopover en route to gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Mgahinga or gorilla trekking Rwanda, but is in fact just one of many lakes in this part of the world.
Beyond the lakes, the topography changed. I love the way the shadows outline the contours of the land.
I was surprised to see geometric lines – defining land boundaries I assume – not a style I have seen in Uganda. I would love to know why this particular area of land has these straight lines. I wondered if the inhabitants of the area are from outside Uganda?
A newly tarmacked road passes through a trading centre. The road west from Kampala to the Rwandese border has been improved significantly over the past few years – but flying is so much more exciting!
The occasional hill and raised terrain give way to an uninterrupted mountainous area.
The morning sun glints on the tin roofs of houses below us.
There was a sense of anticipation as we approached our destination: Kisoro.
Low cloud or early morning mist?
You have to admire the ingenuity of humans who can live and farm at this altitude. Note how steep many of the terraces are.
On our walking safari in Nkuringo, south side of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, we couldn’t believe how steep the potato fields were. One day we watched a young boy dragging a huge sack of potatoes up quasi-vertical terraced fields. How he managed to stay upright, I don’t know.
The first of the eight volcanoes in the Virunga chain comes into view. Mount Muhuvura is known as ‘the guide’ – this photo clearly shows you why.
Like water lapping at the edge of the lake, mist half covers a village.
Lake Mutanda is an increasingly popular tourist destination in South West Uganda. It’s a great base for hiking volcanoes, walking safaris in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, mountain biking, trekking the mountain gorillas or trekking the Golden Monkeys. Its proximity to Kisoro and the Rwandese border makes it a convenient stopover for anyone trekking the gorillas in Rwanda too.
And she was still asleep! An hour and a half later, this lady passenger was still sleeping as the plane descended to land.
Coming into land at Kisoro airstrip.
A perfect start to a perfect day.
Next stop, Mt. Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga – and breakfast!
Are you looking for domestic flights Uganda?
Aerolink offer daily flights to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Kihihi and Kisoro airstrips), Queen Elizabeth National Park (Kasese, Semliki and Mweya airstrips), Semuliki National Park (Semliki airstrip), Murchison Falls (Bugungu, Pakuba and Chobe airstrips) and Kidepo Valley National Park (Kidepo airstrip).
For more information on domestic flights Uganda, please email info@aerolinkuganda.com or call +256 776882205/2/3. Remember to say the Muzungu sent you 😉
Are muzungus all rich?
“For us we know you are rich”
Being a Muzungu (having a white skin) defines me as rich, or so the rolex man tells me.
Let’s talk English semantics here: when he says he knows I’m rich, he could also mean he believes I am rich.
Are school fees due? I don’t think so. Nonetheless, three incidents in 24 hours this week annoyed me – they’re nothing really, but when they come at you – one after the other – they can get you down.
Part One – the Muzungu and the casino chips
Last Monday night Julia and I went to a local restaurant. It looked like a bit of a dive but we were starving. There were no other customers so we thought we might be lucky and get served quickly.
We went through the normal routine: “We are in a hurry, how long will it be?”
“It will be quick Madam” came the reply, “we have machines.”
Three quarters of an hour later, a bowl of vegetable dall and chips finally emerged (quite what those machines were, we will never know…)
Did she think the Muzungu had ordered Casino chips?
When it came to paying the bill, a sultry girl (invisible until this point), hung around the table demanding attention. She presented us with a handwritten bill for two mango juices, chips and dall.
“8500 shillings for chips!” screamed Julia. “Let me see the menu.”
“You had chicken and chips” the girl said. “No we didn’t,” Julia answered back. The remains of dall – and not chicken – were clearly there on the table in front of her.
There was some reluctant shuffling and the greasy, fingerprint-stained remains of a menu were handed to us.
“We’re not paying this bill – the menu says chips are only 3000 shillings.”
The girl picked the bill up from the table in her left hand – and with her right hand replaced it with another handwritten bill, identical except for the total.
“Why did you write two bills?” I confronted the girl. Her attempts to fleece us were so transparent, it’s laughable.
Part Two – the Muzungu and the gold-plated Rolex
The next morning in Entebbe, I pulled over at the side of the road for a quick breakfast before my meeting.
“How much is your rolex please?”
“Only 2000 shillings.”
“I don’t pay that even in Kampala!” I retorted. (I pay maximum 1500). I was half asleep but the second blatant attempt to rip me off in less than 24 hours really got my goat.
Riled, I asked him “so you think all muzungus are rich?” He laughed “For us we know you are rich.”
Gold plated Rollex – this is what I thought I was being charged for – not an omelette wrapped in a chapati
How can I explain to him that the car he sees me drive was bought with a loan from my dad? Will he appreciate the fact I spent the first 2 1/2 years of my life in Uganda working as a volunteer? Will he respect the fact that I’ve been helping a Ugandan friend through university? What will he think of the fact I employ two people that I can’t really afford to employ simply because I like them and want to support them? These thoughts go through my head time and again – but there’s no point in saying anything, he wants his bit of me just like everyone else does. And really, what’s 500 shillings to me anyway?
[500 shillings is approx 12 British pence or 20 US cents]. What a shame I am paid in shillings though, isn’t it?
Part Three – the Muzungu gets tanked up
I pulled over at the petrol station to buy fuel for the 40 something km drive back to Kampala. The attendant greets me with a fabulous grin “Good morning Madam, how are you?”
Such a lovely greeting is the norm and I reply in kind.
I know the question is coming but I’ll have to disappoint him… “Fill her up Madam?” He beams.
“Just give me 30,000” the muzungu snaps back at him.
Don’t get on the wrong side of Tank Girl Charlie!
Some days Uganda, I am just not in the mood!
I chatted all this over with Simpson and he’s right – Ugandans get treated exactly the same way. People need money.
Just don’t expect me to tip you if you get caught trying to rip me off – and at least the man at the petrol station greeted me with a smile.
So how has your week been? Did you come out on top?
If you like reading Diary of a Muzungu, please comment and share my blog with your friends. If you’re interested in writing a guest post, I would love to hear from you! Read more about writing a guest post here
Be part of something BIG!
The Uganda Kob and the Grey Crested Crane adorn the country’s crest – (which bird will replace it in 20 years time when the bird is extinct?)
“Birding@50” focuses on the plight of Uganda’s national symbol, the Grey Crowned Crane.
While the country has been (for the most part) celebrating 50 years of independence, Uganda’s national symbol is in crisis. The Grey Crowned Crane is under serious threat as her wetlands habitats are polluted, eroded, degraded and built upon. Human development is swallowing up the wetlands.
Left unchallenged, the Crane will not survive, and it is estimated that the Grey Crowned (or ‘Crested’) Crane will be extinct in Uganda within just 20 years.
Ironically, the fact that Cranes are monogamous birds that pair for life is one of the factors pushing them towards extinction. Some people hold the traditional belief that eating or using a Crane product will therefore strengthen their own relationship.
NatureUganda is leading the campaign to save the Crane.
We urge individuals and the authorities to protect the wetlands. We need people to ask themselves “when did you last see a young or adult Crane? Do you see them as often now as you did when you were a child?”
It is no coincidence that as humans encroach upon the wetlands, the number of Cranes has plummeted across the country.
NatureUganda’s Achilles Byaruhanga tells us more about this sensational bird in The Crested Crane: Uganda’s symbol of beauty and serenity
So why am I talking about this?
It’s because this Saturday 20th October will be BIG BIRDING DAY 2012!
BBD is a country-wide “big birding race” between birding groups, led by experienced bird guides, who will aim to record as many bird species as possible in a single 24 hour period.
NatureUganda has 47 teams registered so far, across the country. More teams are registering, making this the biggest BBD ever!
There’s free entry for all participants birding in National Parks, Wildlife Reserves and Forest Reserves – but you need to register with NatureUganda first.
The results of the BBD race will be announced during the Big Birding festival on Saturday 27th October 2012 at Entebbe Botanic Gardens. See poster for more details!
The importance of Birds
Despite the large number of birds in Uganda – almost half the continent’s species – very few Ugandans are aware of the country’s rich diversity. The “Uganda Big Birding Day” helps promote avi-conservation and avi-tourism – bird conservation and tourism or ‘birding.’ Although avi-tourism is developing in Uganda, very few locals take part – yet! More trained bird guides are needed!
If you like birds, you might enjoy some of my other stories about birding in Uganda.
Check out all these lovely FREE events! Big Birding Day Uganda 2012
How to feed a baby elephant
Last week I told you the tragic story about the increase in elephant poaching and how Baby Charles came to UWEC. But despite his sad start in life, he’s a very happy little elephant, bringing heaps of fun to anyone who gets a chance to see him – as we did on our elephant encounter.
As you can imagine, feeding baby elephant Charlie is not cheap. He drinks his way through 15 litres of milk a day, a mixture of human baby formula milk (SMA) and fresh diary UHT milk (less the cream), a diet he will have for the next two years.
Just saying hello! Like any baby, he wants to experience the new world open-mouthed!
A few fun facts about Charles:
• He loves bathing! Every day!
• He loves drinking water: he can drink up to 10 litres when thirsty! A fully grown elephant can drink a staggering 225 litres in one day.
• He likes running around and playing with his keeper Bruce, between feeds and naps
• He sleeps in a house – just like you and me!
Charles is unlikely to live back in the wild now, although relocation to a protected reserve is possible. He’s happy with his human companions and carers and loves running around and playing (he cries loudly if he is left on his own!) He has become ‘habituated’ (used) to human contact which, back in the park, could make him an easy target for poachers. Last year Mweya’s famous elephant Maria was poisoned, showing that animosity towards elephants is commonplace. Maria was a habituated elephant too, see R.I.P. Mary – elephant entertainer extraordinaire
Would you like to meet baby Charles?
You don’t have to be a kid to enjoy meeting Charlie the baby elephant! Photo taken a few months ago.
Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (formerly known as Entebbe Zoo) look set to turn tragedy to success, for this little elephant Charlie is sure to become a great ambassador for his species. Hundreds of primary school children visit UWEC every day. They now have the chance to see an elephant, the closest most Ugandans will ever get to see this magnificent animal.
A personal meeting with Charles is the latest addition to the brilliant ‘Behind the scenes’ tour at UWEC. For $50 per person you will be taken around the whole zoo, accompanied by a very knowledgeable guide, for approximately 2 – 3 hours. Morning visitors have a chance to actually feed the hoofed animals such as giraffe, rhino and waterbuck. Afternoon visitors may see and participate in feeding the Big Cats: Lion, Leopard and Serval cat – up close. If there are specific feedings you wish to see, please check timings when you book.
All it took was a phone call the day before we wanted to visit to see the zoo’s latest – and most famous – resident, Hamukungu Charles. It’s the chance of a lifetime, to come up close and actually touch this magnificent animal. Even in miniature, there’s something very special about elephants. Charles loves company will be very excited to meet you!
Tours are available 7 days a week and there is a 10% discount for group bookings. To visit Charles or donate milk to feed him, contact UWEC on 0414 320 520 or 0414 320 169. UWEC is open every day from 8 am till 6 pm.
Imagine: elephants swimming to an island!
Last week I had an elephant encounter at Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe.
Baby elephant Charles loves to play football! Here he is at five months old
When you first encounter this baby elephant Charlie, thoughts of murder are far from your mind.
Originally from Queen Elizabeth National Park, Charles was brought to UWEC (a.k.a. the zoo) at the tender age of three weeks old, a victim of poachers that tragically saw him orphaned and then abandoned.
Fishermen of Hamukungu fishing village found baby Charles abandoned on the shores of an island on Lake George, trying to swim. Since there were no other elephants nearby, and the baby was about to drown, the rescuers loaded Charles into their wooden dugout canoe and paddled him back to Hamukungu.
Can you imagine – seeing a baby elephant being paddled across the lake!
The fishermen were compensated for their quick-thinking by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and fisherman Charles was delighted for the elephant to be named after him!
Two days after the dramatic marine rescue, the carcass of an adult male elephant with six bullet wounds to the head and thoracic regions (indicative of poachers) was found submerged, next to the same island. It’s suspected that ivory poachers may have scared the elephant family away, leaving behind the newborn baby.
On arrival at UWEC a week later, baby Charles was weak, exhausted, and extremely thirsty. He was believed to be about a week old, as the umbilical cord was still attached. He did not know how to suckle; neither did he know the taste of milk.
Bull elephant feeding along the Kazinga Channel. Can you spot the hippo?
Organisations like the Uganda Conservation Foundation are working hard with UWA to stop poaching, remind local people of the penalties for poaching and the benefits of community conservation. UCF is building the capacity of UWA to work on the waterways of Queen Elizabeth by providing boats, professional marine ranger training and ranger accommodation posts. Uganda’s National Parks were once teeming with wildlife but the politically unstable years of the 1970s and 80s killed off all the rhino and Queen Elizabeth’s elephant population dropped by approximately 80%. The population has been slowly recovering but tragically, the international trade in ivory is undergoing an unprecedented increase. At least 13 Ugandan elephants were killed for ivory in 2011 and they desperately need more protection.
To visit Charles or donate milk to feed him, contact UWEC on 0414 320 520 or 0414 320 169. UWEC is open every day from 8 am till 6 pm. You can also find UWEC on Facebook.
An elephant encounter!
We were all excited at the thought of seeing – and touching – a baby elephant. As we arrived, this jolly little creature, with his long, thick eyelashes came trotting along behind his keeper and soul mate Bruce, his carer at Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe.
These two are inseparable! Charlie the elephant and Bruce his keeper
These two have become inseparable. They even sleep together (in a house of course!)
I’d made the mistake of wearing open toed sandals for the day, so I was a bit wary of getting too close to him. In his enthusiasm to sniff everyone with his curly trunk, he trod on the toes of one of the teenage girls in our group – luckily she had trainers on. He may be a baby but he already weighs 153kg!
A right couple of Charlies - Charlie the Muzungu meets Charlie the elephant
You can almost cuddle Charles, he’s so small. He’s a cute little thing – for now! A mere 100 to 120 kg when born, an elephant will weigh an incredible 2,000 to 3,000 kg when fully grown.
I worked in conservation in Uganda for 2 ½ years, written elephant reports, elephant stories and an elephant obituary but this was my first time to come up close with the famous Loxodonta Africana.
To visit Charles or donate milk to feed him, contact UWEC on 0414 320 520 or 0414 320 169. UWEC is open every day from 8 am till 6 pm.
Charles was not born in captivity. Next, read the tragic story behind this elephant-sized bundle of fun… Imagine: elephants swimming to an island!
Party with your closest relative!
PHOTO: Chimps grooming each other at Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary on Lake Victoria, Uganda.
Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary the flagship project of the Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust (CSWCT) is fundraising to refurbish the sanctuary enclosure / electric fencing system for the sanctuary. The electric fence – erected about 10 years ago – today helps staff, visitors, students, local communities and tourists view the Chimpanzees with minimal or no contact.
The forested island of 100 acres is located 23 km offshore from Entebbe and provides a safe haven where orphaned chimpanzees are free to roam. It offers a unique opportunity for close viewing of chimpanzees in their natural environment. Supplementary feeding brings the chimpanzees within metres of the raised walkway, specially designed for easy viewing. It’s a fantastic vantage point for photos and to appreciate the chimps now resident on this small island.
If you live in Uganda – or are visiting – Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary is a must-do experience and a great day out (you can even stay overnight on Ngamba Island!) I’ve visited numerous times and can’t wait to go again! It’s fun, educational and directly supports the chimpanzees. CSWT’s CEO Lilly Ajarova has been a volunteer Director of UCF (the Uganda Conservation Foundation) for many years and it’s always an honour to support such a committed lady, a fellow marketer and conservationist. She’s been a inspiration to me.
UPDATE: This event was a great success!
To find out about upcoming kids events, fundraisers and more at Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, email reservations@ngambaisland.org or call +256 414 320662 / +256 758 221880.
The photo was taken at the cafe in the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (UWEC), formerly known as Entebbe Zoo. It’s two minutes walk from where the boat to Ngamba is moored and morringlovely place to chill out.
Have you visited Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary? What was your favourite part of the experience?
