Travel options for seeing the mountain gorillas

Can I fly to see the Mountain Gorillas? How long is the journey by road from Kampala or Kigali to the gorillas’ habitat?

The main roads leading to Uganda and Rwandas’ gorilla tracking areas are generally good but travel is much slower than on European or American roads, for example. Secondary roads are often slow and bumpy, especially approaching Uganda’s gorilla parks. Be prepared for long car journeys often taking most of the day. Four-wheel drive vehicles are required for certain routes in the rainy season. I’ve travelled to these areas by every possible means – private car, coach, public transport, boda boda and plane. However you travel, enjoy the journey! The scenery is fabulous.

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking

Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas – is 8+ hours’ drive from Kampala or Entebbe. If you’ve never visited this part of the world at all, the drive is a fantastic opportunity to view African life in the trading centres you pass through. En route through the gloriously green Pearl of Africa you will cross the Equator (and the obligatory stop for photos!)

If you have time to spare, you can easily make a detour for a safari in Lake Mburo National Park or Queen Elizabeth National Park.

If you prefer to fly, buy a round trip air ticket from Entebbe to the Bwindi area (at a cost of $350 – $450). This one and a half hour flight in a small aircraft is out of this world! You pass over the islands on Lake Victoria, swampy marshlands, trading centres and the mist covered valleys of south-western Uganda. Seeing the cloud covered peaks of the volcanoes approaching the distance is an unforgettable sight. The transfer from the airstrips of Kisoro or Kihihi is approximately 30 minutes to one hour, depending where you are tracking the gorillas.

If you’re pushed for time, or you don’t fancy a long road drive, a flight to Kigali and a short drive is the easiest option. The drive to Ruhengeri (Virunga) Volcanoes National Park, home of Rwanda’s gorillas, takes just two hours from Rwanda’s capital city Kigali on very good roads. En route you will quickly understand why it is called ‘the Land of 1000 Hills’!

It is also possible to fly to Kigali then drive across the border to see Uganda’s gorillas. Both options take considerably less time than driving from Kampala.


For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Welcome to Uganda

If you’re new to Uganda, here’s some basic information on what the country has to offer tourists.

Kampala is the capital of Uganda and known historically as the ‘city of seven hills.’ Click on the link to read an intro to this great and crazy city! I love Kampala!

If you’re looking for just one guidebook about travel in Uganda, buy the Bradt Uganda Guide. The latest edition was published in 2019. Guess who features as a contributor? 😉 Read more about the Bradt Uganda Guide here or listen to my podcast interview with author Philip Briggs here. Edition 10 of the Bradt Uganda Guide will be published late 2024.

lion cub. Bradt Uganda edition 9 cover image
A lion cub features on the cover of edition 9 of the Bradt Uganda Guidebook

Safari or bust!

Most tourists land in Entebbe and head straight to track the gorillas or go on safari. Learn more about Uganda’s National Parks. While each National Park boasts hundreds of species, their ‘go to’ highlights include:

  • Bwindi Impenetrable National Park (mountain gorillas)
  • Kibale Forest National Park (chimps, monkeys, birds and butterflies) 
  • Kidepo Valley National Park (the only park for ostrich and cheetah)
  • Lake Mburo National Park (zebras and giraffes)
  • Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (mountain gorillas and volcanoes)
  • Mount Elgon National Park (for funky vegetation, lakes, waterfalls and caves)
  • Murchison Falls National Park (for safari game drives, Uganda’s biggest crocodiles, and boat rides on the Nile)
  • Queen Elizabeth National Park (for safari game drives, birdwatching, a ‘water safari’ boat ride and chimpanzees in Kyambura Gorge)
  • Rwenzori Mountains National Park (glaciers, chameleons and awesome ‘Big Botanical Game’ montane plants)
  • Semliki National Park (hot springs and a forest home to Central African bird species you won’t find anywhere else in Uganda).

In addition to the National Parks, the Uganda Wildlife Authority manages twelve Wildlife Reserves and fourteen wildlife sanctuaries. The National Forest Authority manages the Central Forest Reserves, the most popular ones being: Budongo, Kalinzu, Mabira, Mpanga and Echuya.

The Ssese Islands on Lake Victoria is an archipelago of 84 islands, many with beautiful white sandy beaches. Only half of the islands are inhabited. Some measure just a few thousand square metres. The largest Ssese Island is Buggala (at 40 kilometres in length), a popular tourist destination.

Other popular Ssese Islands include: Banda Island and Bulago Island. Ngamba Island is one of our best-known islands for it is home to the chimpanzees and sanctuary of the same name. Ngamba Island is a 45 minute boat ride across the Equator from Entebbe.

Where NOT to swim in the River Nile

Where NOT to swim in the River Nile

If you’re planning to go swimming in Uganda or white water rafting, kayaking or canoeing, don’t worry, the River Nile near Jinja is mostly fast flowing so there’s little chance that you will catch Bilharzia, although it’s not impossible.

The Bilharzia (snail) larvae breed in the shallow waters of the reed beds. Just to be on the safe side, if you plan on swimming in Uganda, first read my page on How to avoid Bilharzia.

Muzungu swimmming in the River Nile, Jinja, Uganda

Swimming in Uganda. Oh, the life of a volunteer TRA LA! Taking a dip below The Haven, River Nile, Jinja.

 

I’ve been Grade 5 White Water rafting three times in Uganda. Adrenalin rushes aside, I found that gently floating along next to our raft between the rapids is one of the best things I have ever done. I felt completely safe.

The dams at Owen Falls and Bujagali are very effective barriers to the rare crocodiles that you find on the Jinja shores of Lake Victoria. Any renegade crocs are quickly picked up by the Uganda Wildlife Authority so there’s nothing to worry about if you’re messing around on the river.

There are hippos and a few crocodiles on Lake Victoria itself (above the Owen Falls dam), so I’d give the midnight swims a miss until you’ve checked with local people whether any have been seen in the vicinity!

Swimming in Uganda – or in the River Nile at Murchison Falls National Park to be precise – is an altogether different matter: do not under any circumstance consider dipping even a toe in the river. As well as having very strong currents, here the River Nile is a fantastic mass of man-eating crocs and hippo!

Swimming in Uganda. Hippo chasing at man at Paraa, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

Did you know….? The hippo is Africa’s most dangerous mammal. Hippo chasing man at Paraa, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

 

Some of the wildlife highlights of the River Nile in Murchison Falls are the pods of Hippo, and the huge Nile Crocodiles – you have been warned!

Do you enjoy swimming in Uganda? Have you swum in the River Nile?

Do you have any other Uganda travel tips or expat travel advice you’d like to share?

Please leave a comment here or check out the Diary of a Muzungu Guest Post page for more information, I’d love to hear from you!

Uganda’s National Parks – An Introduction

Uganda’s National Parks

Elephants Maramagambo Forest Queen Elizabeth National Park

Still my favourite elephant photo – taken as we drove along the Ishasha Road through Maramagambo Forest in Queen Elizabeth National Park

Within living memory, elephants wandered across three quarters of Uganda. These days the larger mammals are mostly confined within Uganda’s protected areas: the National Parks and Forest Reserves managed by the Uganda Wildlife Authority and the Forest Reserves, managed by the National Forestry Authority.

You’ve heard of the Big Five, but how about the Big Seven?

In Uganda we can go TWO better! On safari in Uganda, not only can you see the Big Five (elephant, buffalo, rhino, lion and leopard)  you can trek the mountain gorillas and track the chimps. Uganda is the only country where you can see all these animals.
 
Uganda may not have the large numbers of wildlife that you can see in Kenya and Tanzania, however, patient game tracking can be rewarding. All the major wildlife attractions can be seen easily and you often feel you have the National Park to yourself. You’re certainly very unlikely to meet a traffic jam in Uganda’s bush!

Identifying a Sunbird. Sunbird Hill Uganda

Identifying a Sunbird – not always easy, even with the bird guide! Photo taken at Sunbird Hill, edge of Kibale Forest

Uganda has arguably Africa’s greatest variety of birdlife with over 1,030 species recorded. Uganda’s Birding Big Five are: Shoebill, Secretary Bird, Green Breasted Pitta, African Green Broad-bill and Pel’s Fishing Owl.

It’s possible to spot over 450 species of birds in Uganda in a two or three week trip, if you’re well prepared with a professional bird guide. Even if you don’t see yourself as a birder, I defy you not to fall in love with birds after visiting the Pearl of Africa!

Uganda’s National Parks

The majority of Uganda’s tourists will visit one or several of Uganda’s ten national parks. The parks are managed by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA). Learn more about each one by clicking on the links below:
Uganda’s National Parks are open to the public every day of the year. They’re not the only place where you can enjoy wildlife and birds in Uganda but they have the best facilities and guides. They have the widest range of lodges, camps and other accommodation. Wildlife has the best protection in the National Parks and by visiting them, you are supporting conservation in Uganda.
Click here to download the Uganda Wildlife Authority UWA Tariff price list 2020-2022  which contains all National Park entry fees; hiking; gorilla, chimpanzee and golden monkey tracking permits; birdwatching, boat cruises; nature walks and more.

Rwenzori Mountains National Park

Rwenzori Mountains National Park – a snowball fight on the Equator?

How to hike the Rwenzori Mountains. trekking ruwenzori, Uganda

The Rwenzoris lie on Uganda’s western border and are shared with the DRC. In 150 AD the philosopher Ptolemy named the ‘Mountains of the Moon’ as the Source of the Nile

Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. According to the Uganda Wildlife Authority, “Rwenzori Mountains National Park comprises the main part of the Rwenzori mountain chain, which includes Africa’s third highest peak [Margherita Peak] at 5,109 metres above sea level. The combination of spectacular snow-capped peaks, glaciers, V-shaped valleys, fast flowing rivers with magnificent waterfalls, clear blue lakes and unique flora contributes to the area’s exceptional natural beauty. The Rwenzori mountains support the richest montane flora in Africa, encompassing the charismatic giant lobelias, groundsels, and giant heathers which have been called “Africa’s botanical big game”. 

In AD150, the geographer Ptolemy from Alexandria labelled Mt. Rwenzori “the Mountains of the Moon.” Explorers spent centuries trying to verify the Source of the Nile. (The Rwenzoris are one of the Nile’s many sources). If you are interested in geography and history, I highly recommend reading Andrew Roberts’ 2021 rewrite of his Uganda’s Rift Valley (review to be published on Diary of a Muzungu soon). One of his many sources is the book Rwenzori Mountains National Park, published in 1998 by Makerere University.

In 1888, the explorer Henry Stanley called the Rwenzori by its local name ‘Ruwenzori’, meaning ‘rainmaker’ or ‘cloud king.’ For centuries, local people were terrified of the cloud king and wouldn’t venture up into the interior of the mountain range. The appeal of jobs as tourism porters (and the ready cash that brings) has changed that, superficially at least.

Rwenzoris boardwalk view

Sunny weather can’t be guaranteed! To hike the summits, it’s recommended you climb during the dry seasons. It rains frequently in the Rwenzoris

On a clear day, the Rwenzori Mountains – the fabled ‘Mountains of the Moon’ – provide a jaw-dropping backdrop to the hills of Fort Portal. Often the Rwenzoris are simply an area we pass through on our journey between Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls but if you want tranquility, clean air and peace, this is the place to visit. Paddling in the cool, clear waters of the Rwenzori’s streams and rivers is magical. The mountain has over fifty lakes!

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Three-horned Chameleon, Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzoris

There are dozens of walks you can do in the foothills of the Rwenzori’s without attempting to scramble to one of the peaks. Half or full day walks, camping, birdwatching, a community coffee tour, hot springs, mountain biking and treks to see waterfalls (and to find the chameleons!) are just a few activities you can do.

Rwenzori Turaco, Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda. Mark Dudley Photography

Rwenzori (or Ruwenzori) Turaco, as pictured in the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography. Click on the image to visit his Facebook page

I was invited to climb Margherita Peak with the same friends I climbed Mount Elgon with. A good level of fitness is required to climb Margherita Peak (and my knee injury prevented me going in the end). It’s very cold up in the mountains at night; during rainy season the boggy terrain can be hard going and exhausting. Global warming has substantially melted the glaciers, opening up crevasses, making the last day’s ascent a technical climb requiring the right equipment.

If you’re interested in climbing the Rwenzori Mountains, read the popular guest post How to climb Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains – trekking Margherita Peak.

Boardwalk. Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Boardwalk at Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzori Mountains

At Ruboni Community Camp, the accommodation is basic but the food is good. We were entranced by the early morning mist rising above the lower peaks of the Rwenzori’s. It looked as if the mountain was actually creating the clouds – is that possible?


Murchison Falls National Park

Visit the spectacular Murchison Falls! Take the boat ride to the Bottom of the Falls. Experience the thundering water under your feet at the Top of the Falls!

Devil's Cauldron. Top of Murchison Falls

That’s my dad! The Devil’s Cauldron. Top of Murchison Falls

Murchison Falls National Park is named after the spectacular waterfalls, the undoubted geographical highlight of the area. It was during his 1860-70’s expeditions that the explorer Sir Samuel Baker named the Falls after Sir Roderick Murchison, the President of The Royal Geographical Society. During Idi Amin’s time, the Falls were known by their local name: Kabalega Falls, after the notorious warlord king of Bunyoro Kingdom.

Sir Winston Churchill described the plains around Murchison Falls as “Kew Gardens and the [London] zoo on an unlimited scale.”

Before I go any further, I must alert you to the heinous idea of building a dam at Murchison Falls. Read my blog “There is no Murchison Falls National Park without Murchison Falls.” The debate rages on.

On an early morning game drive in Murchison, you’re likely to see elephants, Cape buffalo, Rothschild’s giraffes, lion, Uganda kob, warthog and more. My friend saw a porcupine on safari in Murchison! An armed Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger escorts visitors on game drives.

Abyssinian Ground Hornbills Murchison Falls, safari

Murchison Falls National Park has over 400 bird species. I love the big Abyssinian Ground Hornbill! I spotted these as we drove along the south bank of the Nile

The boat trip to the Bottom of the Falls is second to none. It’s an absolute must-do! You will see huge Nile crocodiles, hippos and 100s of birds, including brightly-coloured Beeeaters, Spoonbills and – if you’re lucky – you can even see the prehistoric-looking Shoebill, which is a cross between the dodo and a dinosaur! The boat takes you to the base of the Falls where you can stop for some great photo opportunities.

Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga

On my last trip we saw an amazing THREE Shoebills on the River Nile delta cruise with Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga

View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda

View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda

The hour’s hike from the edge of the River Nile up to the top of Murchison Falls is highly recommended. En route you will see a second set of waterfalls – Uhuru Falls. The striking view of both waterfalls is not visible from the top of Murchison Falls, nor from the boat. This hike can be done in either direction. There is a steep climb for a few minutes, but the Uganda Wildlife Authority has invested in  steps and handrails, so I highly recommend the hike. UWA charge a small fee to do the walk to the bottom of the Falls.

Top of the Falls, Murchison Falls National Park

There is an inevitability about the constant flow of the River Nile that I find quite overwhelming. I find myself imagining the distance this water has travelled…. click on the image to read my blog all about Murchison Falls

The experience at the Top of the Falls is staggering. Here the Nile, the longest river in the world, is forced through a narrow gap in the rock (only 7 metres wide), before ferociously plunging down 43 metres. You can feel the force of the water beneath the rocks underfoot. You’ll need to SHOUT to make your voice heard above the tons of water thundering beneath you!

Sport fishing for giant Nile Perch is a popular activity in Murchison Falls National Park. Guided walking safaris are also available too.

Budongo Forest Reserve, to the south of the main Park, is an excellent ecotourism site for trekking chimpanzees. Budongo Forest is home to some 600-700 chimpanzees (Pan troglodytes schweinfurthii). The Budongo Forest Conservation Field Station studies and works to conserve the local chimpanzee populations.

The majority of Murchison Falls National Park’s game viewing is on the northern bank of the Nile, where there are a number of hotels and lodges. There’s also a range of accommodation just outside the Park, on the southern bank of the Nile. The advantage of staying outside the Park is that you do not pay Uganda Wildlife Authority’s entry fees until you enter the Park. (The downside is that you have to then wait for the ferry before you start your game drive). The ferry takes just a few minutes to cross the Nile. (A bridge is under construction in 2020).


Mount Elgon National Park

Mount Elgon National Park – need some head space? Go climb Wagagai!

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Mount Elgon National Park straddles Uganda’s eastern border with Kenya. One Mount Elgon National Park is in Uganda; Kenya has a (separately managed) Mount Elgon National Park on the eastern side of the same caldera.

On our five-day hike to the summit of Wagagai, we only encountered two other groups of hikers. Climbing Mount Elgon’s Wagagai Peak felt like a real wilderness experience to us.
Often hot during the day, it could be very cold at night, especially after the rains. We trekked in May and we camped (well, everyone camps!)

porters Mount Elgon cave

Kevin – one of our UWA guides – made tea for the porters as we took shelter in a cave on day one of climbing Mount Elgon

Our (obligatory) Uganda Wildlife Authority Ranger guides were fantastic. The porters said very few words to their bazungu clients. God they were tough: they carried our packs all day long, some of them walked barefoot, and huddled around the campfire, sleeping together in a big heap every night.

At 4,321 metres, Mount Elgon is the fourth highest mountain in East Africa. It is the eighth highest peak in Africa. It is the second largest volcanic base in the world. Elgon offers great hiking and trekking, huge caves to explore and a diversity of funky montane flora.

boys collecting firewood on Mount Elgon

Local boys collecting firewood on Mount Elgon. They raced up and down the hillside as we walked – and slid – tentatively downwards. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Climbing Mount Elgon is one of my favourite Uganda travel experiences. The sore knee and blisters are long forgotten, and I’m ready to scale the summit again. You’re unlikely to see much wildlife while you’re climbing Mt. Elgon, but there is abundant birdlife. In 2013, the Uganda Wildlife Authority team won the annual Big Birding Day event by notching up a record sighting of 400 species in one 24 hour period.

Hiking Mount Elgon is worth it for the scenery alone. We passed through seven different types of vegetation, many I’d never seen before.

Bagisu children Mount Elgon

The largest tribe around Mount Elgon are the Bagisu

Generally, people overnight at Sipi Falls before climbing Mount Elgon. Indeed, the magnificent 100 metre high Sipi Falls are an adventure in themselves. There are three waterfalls in all. Here you can go mountain biking, hiking, abseiling, rock-climbing and fly fishing.

Need some headspace? Go climb Wagagai! Mount Elgon


Queen Elizabeth National Park

Queen Elizabeth National Park – more bird species than any other African national park!

Queen Elizabeth National Park straddles the Equator and is dominated by lakes and waterways. Set on the floor of the Rift Valley, the park is surrounded on distant sides by mountains and volcanic peaks. Queen Elizabeth boasts stunning scenery and incredible biodiversity. No wonder it is Uganda’s most popular National Park. Safari game drives, tree-climbing lions, herds of elephants, packs of hyena, chimpanzees, curious warthogs, giant forest hog, lions, leopard, buffalo and big pods of hippos are just some of the animal attractions. Banded Mongoose, Olive Baboons, Black and White Colobus monkeys, waterbuck, bushbuck and Uganda Kob are a few of the commonly seen mammals.
And remember – every safari is different! You never know what you will see.

Uganda Conservation Foundation's map of Uganda

Uganda Conservation Foundation’s map of Uganda, created to celebrate their tenth anniversary. 10% of sales of these maps is donated to UCF

Queen Elizabeth is the park that the Muzungu knows best, thanks to my volunteering with the Uganda Conservation Foundation.

Queen Elizabeth is a popular park in its own right. It often features on longer itineraries too, that include gorilla trekking in Bwindi or Mgahinga (to the south), a Safari in Murchison Falls (to the north) or chimp tracking in Kibale Forest.

African Fish Eagles Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

African Fish Eagles on the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

Queen Elizabeth National Park has the highest recorded number of birds of any of Uganda’s national parks: a whopping 666 species. That is the highest for any national park in Africa!

taking notes UCF UWA Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area

A very serious muzungu taking notes on my first field trip with UCF and UWA Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area

Queen Elizabeth is an excellent place to see hippos, elephants and lions. You’ll have to look very carefully to spot the leopard!

leopard in cactus Queen Elizabeth

Leopard camouflaged in Euphorbia ‘candelabra’ cactus, Queen Elizabeth National Park

One of my favourite activities is the boat cruise along the Kazinga Channel. Read Bird watching on the Kazinga Channel – a 21st century Safari! Look out for the big Nile crocodiles basking in the sun at the water’s edge!

You can also trek chimpanzees in Kyambura Gorge on the edge of the escarpment, at Kichwamba, just outside the National Park.

The southern sector of Queen Elizabeth is known as Ishasha, most famous for its tree-climbing lions. Ishasha’s wide plains give you a wilderness experience. Many people experience Ishasha while driving en route from game drives in Mweya and central Queen Elizabeth down to see the gorillas in Bwindi.

Queen Elizabeth has a fantastic panoramic viewing point – and café – on the Equator, managed by Conservation Through Public Health. The Queen’s Pavillion and Information Centre is also the site of a Uganda Wildlife Authority office. Do drop by if you’re passing!

In and outside the park are a number of crater lakes. Katwe’s crater lakes are famous for seasonal migrations of flamingos.

Harvesting salt in Lake Katwe

Harvesting salt from beneath the water of Lake Katwe – not a pleasant job to be knee-deep in salty water all day!

On the edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park are some fantastic community tourism projects. The best established ones have been developed with the support of Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust, UCOTA and Ishasha Community Uplift Group.

Cultural activities include village walks, traditional dancing and traditional musical instruments, basket weaving, beekeeping and candle-making, hands-on demonstrations of how to produce local food, farm visits and medicinal uses of herbs.

There’s a lot more to Uganda than wildlife, and visiting a community tourism project is a quick and easy way to contribute to local communities. Get out of your comfort zone and meet the rural Ugandans!

Did you know… you can see the Rwenzori Mountains and the Blue Mountains of the Congo from Queen Elizabeth National Park?


Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park – a gem in an unspoiled corner of Uganda

Approach Mgahinga Virunga volcanoes from Kisoro

Approaching Mgahinga and the Virunga volcanoes from Kisoro. From left are: Mount Muhuvura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabinyo

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is Uganda’s smallest National Park, measuring 33.7 km². In a beautiful country of great geographical diversity, this is nonetheless one of the most scenic, unspoiled spots. No-one can fail to be taken in by the majesty of the Virunga volcanoes.

Just over half of the world’s estimated 1000 mountain gorillas are located in Uganda’s far south-west corner (2019 figures). The majority of these are in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to the north of Mgahinga. The first mountain gorilla was sighted by Captain Oscar von Beringe in 1902 in what is now known as Mgahinga Gorilla National Park.

Since Mgahinga borders Rwanda and the DR Congo, the “gorillas without borders” wander freely between the three countries. One particularly engaging habituated gorilla family is resident in Mgahinga. TIP: if you want a more personal encounter with the gorillas, go to Mgahinga. You are unlikely to have many other trackers in your party.

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is part of the much larger transboundary Virunga Conservation Area and borders national parks in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The park contains the northern slopes of three volcanoes: Mount Sabinyo (3,634m), Mount Gahinga (3,474m) and Mount Muhuvura (4,127m). Mgahinga is one of the best places in Uganda for hiking and walking.

Golden Monkeys Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Uganda

Three Golden Monkeys in the bamboo forest of Mgahinga Uganda

The volcanoes’ slopes are home to around 75 mammal species, including buffalo, forest elephants and leopard. (The muzungu even saw a wild tortoise on one trip to Mgahinga!) It is one of the few locations in Uganda where you can trek to see the charming Golden Monkeys. It’s a lovely (and underrated) wildlife experience. Birdwatching, especially in Sabinyo Gorge, is highly recommended.

The Batwa Experience Mgahinga

The Batwa Experience – developed and run by Volcanoes Safaris Trust at Mount Gahinga Lodge – gives an insight into traditional forest life

Mgahinga is home to the Batwa Heritage Trail and a number of other small but excellent community tourism initiatives. Mount Gahinga Lodge is the muzungu’s highly recommended base for all activities in Mgahinga. It is out of this world!

The hilly, often wet, marram road leading to Mgahinga can be tricky, but the ride is well worth it.

Did you know… ? A gahinga is a piece of molten lava that has hardened. Gahinga are scattered for many miles and are evidence of volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago. Clearing fields of gahinga is a laborious process; the resulting pile of rocks is fashioned into walls and buildings.


Lake Mburo National Park

Lake Mburo National Park – now home to Rothschild’s Giraffes too!

Lake Mburo National Park is the closest National Park to Kampala and thus a popular weekend break. Lake Mburo is also en route to Bwindi and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks so is a common stopover for people wishing to break up the rather long road journey to see the gorillas.

Lake Mburo is one of the few national parks in Uganda where you can track on foot, with an armed guide. It’s also possible to have a walking safari outside the Park, for a fraction of the price, if you are staying at Rwakobo Rock Lodge, for example. I just loved walking through the zebra!

Lake Mburo is unique in being the only National Park in Uganda where you can enjoy a horseback safari. The Uganda Wildlife Authority allows night games drives in Lake Mburo. UWA runs a boat cruise on the lake for those in search of water birds and hippo!

Keep your eyes peeled before you enter the Park. You can often see zebra amongst the trees along the roadside as you approach the area. Zebra abound at Lake Mburo, as do the famous impala, hippo, buffalo and (elusive) eland (and even domestic cattle and goats in some areas of the Park). In 2015, Uganda Wildlife Authority translocated a number of Rothschild’s giraffes to Lake Mburo from Kidepo.
Lake Mburo has an impressive bird list. On a visit there with Nature Uganda, I scored new ticks for my bird list that included: Yellow Rumped Tinker bird, Grey-backed Cameroptera, Striped Kingfisher, Fork-tailed Drongo and a Bare-faced Go Away Bird.

Dung beetles, Lake Mburo National Park

Dung beetles win the prize for best teamwork! Lake Mburo National Park

Look out for the dung beetles too! These groovy insects crack me up. For the best view, get down on your hands and knees and watch them roll the ball of dung towards you!

Did you know… local legend states that if you see an aardvark, you will live to be 100 years old!


Semliki National Park

Semliki National Park – “half as many species of bird as the entire Congo”

Boardwalk swamp Sempaya Hot Springs, Semliki
Boardwalk across the swamp at Sempaya Hot Springs, Semliki National Park

Semliki (or Semuliki) is most popular for its Central African character, its outstanding birdlife and the famous Sempaya Hot Springs.

Semuliki National Park is arguably more Central African than East African, evidenced by the presence of palm trees, bird and animal species that are found nowhere else in Uganda, and Batwa ‘Pygmies’ who once originated from Ituri Forest, one of Africa’s most ancient forests.

The Semliki Valley lies in the Albertine Rift Valley, north-west of the Rwenzori Mountains. The Semliki River carries rainwater from the Rwenzoris to Lake Albert and the River Nile and forms a natural border with the Congo. This park is sometimes referred to as Bwamba Forest.

Sempaya Hot Spings, Semliki National Park
Sempaya Hot Spings, Semliki National Park
Sempaya Hot Spings, Semliki National Park


Sempaya Hot Springs is where local people used to cook their food. The ‘male’ spring measures 12 metres across. The ‘female’ spring boils at over 100°C and spurts bubbling water two metres into the air. It’s reported that the cloud of steam can be seen from as far as 2 km away! Read my steamy adventure at Sempaya Springs.

According to “Important Bird Areas in Africa and associated islands – Uganda” by Achilles Byaruhanga, Pantaleon Kasoma and Derek Pomeroy:

“Semuliki National Park is contiguous with the Democratic Republic of the Congo’s Virunga National Park. Much of the park is covered by forest. Although about 30% of the original forest cover was cleared during the 1970s and early 1980s, the encroachers were evicted and the forest is now slowly regenerating. Semliki’s conservation issues remain numerous: conflict over land-use, agricultural encroachment, poaching and illegal removal of forest products are compounded by high population density.”

The forest has “strong affinities with the Congo-Basin forests.” Semliki Forest contains half as many species of bird as the entire Congo. Seventy species are only known within Uganda from Semliki Forest, including 31 of “the Guinea–Congo Forests biome.” Semliki Forest is outstandingly rich in wildlife and includes 51 species of forest Swallowtail and Charaxes butterflies.

Birds that keen twitchers and ornithologists may see in Semliki and nowhere else in Uganda, include:

Bate’s Nightjar, Black Dwarf Hornbill, Black-casqued Hornbill, Black-collared Lovebird, Black-throated Coucal, Black-winged Oriole, Capuchin Babbler, Congo Serpent Eagle, Crested and Blue-billed Malimbes, Fiery-breasted Bush-shrike, Grey-throated Rail, Icterine Greenbul, Lemon-bellied Crombec, Long-tailed Hawk, Lyre-tailed Honeyguide, Nkulengu Rail, Northern Bearded Scrub Robin, Orange-tufted Sunbird, Pale-fronted Negrofinch, Piping Hornbill, Red-billed Helmet Shrike, Red-billed Hornbill, Red-chested Owlet, Red-rumped Tinkerbird, Rufous-sided Broadbill, Spot-breasted Ibis, Swamp Palm Bulbul, Wattled Hornbill, Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, White-bellied Kingfisher, White-crested Hornbill, White-thighed Hornbill, White-throated Blue Swallow, Yellow-throated Cuckoo, Yellow-throated Nicator, Zenker’s Honeyguide.

For safari game drives, venture to Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve in search of buffalo, forest and savannah elephants, crocodile, warthog, waterbuck and Uganda kob. Pygmy hippo, elusive leopard and shy bushbabies can be seen occasionally.

Batwa dancers perform traditional cultural dance performances for visitors. Batwa cultural interactions can be arranged with the Uganda Wildlife Authority and are highly recommended.

 

 

Kidepo Valley National Park

Kidepo Valley National Park – “One of the top 10 parks in Africa”

Set in the remotest northeast corner of Uganda lies Kidepo Valley National Park, said by the few people who have visited to be their “favourite park in Uganda.” 

The remote Kidepo Valley is arid savannah and boasts a long list of 77 mammals, according to the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Generally, the best time to see game is when the animals migrate south to access the water in the valley during the long dry season from December to late March. (Climate change means it is harder to predict the rains so it is worth checking the weather projections first).

Kidepo Valley National Park boasts over 475 species of birds and has been named one of the top 10 parks in Africa for its spectacular landscapes and large herds of Buffalo. CNN calls Kidepo “possibly the most picturesque in Africa.” CNN wrote “Why this hidden gem in Uganda is a top destination for 2016.”

Local communities around Kidepo include the Karamojong people, famous for keeping cattle and surviving on their milk and blood. The Karamojong are similar to the Maasai tribe. The Ik are hunter-gatherers.

The easiest way to travel to Kidepo is to fly. For many years, flying was virtually the only safe way to get to Kidepo. Nowadays, road travel from the capital of Kampala is easier and safer and averages 10 hours. If time is on your side, split the journey over two days; you may well need to allow longer during the rainy seasons too. Most of the road journey is fine in a 4×4 vehicle, but the roads on the last couple of hours drive can be tricky during the rains.

Tourism in Kidepo (and Karamoja) is developing slowly with new lodges, campsites and mobile camps coming online in 2022.

 
 
 

Did you know … Kidepo is the only park in Uganda where you will see certain animal species…? These include cheetah, ostrich and the Secretary Bird.