Entebbe International Airport, Uganda: travel in ‘the new normal’
“Traveling in the age of the pandemic is not for the faint at heart” writes Prof Wolfgang Thome of ATCNews.org Wolfgang flew with Brussels Airlines from Entebbe International Airport, Uganda. He shares his experience of COVID-19 (Coronavirus) testing, airport check-in, what to pack, new protocols for travelers and airport operating procedures.
“The trials and tribulations of travel in the age of #COVID19- Part 1”
Posted 24th October 2020. Republished with the permission of the author.
Wolfgang writes:
We all look back at the days when one could book a ticket, at the airline, with a travel agent or do it online, pay and proceed to Entebbe, go through the – albeit dreaded – security checkpoints, check in, pass immigration and wait for the flight to be called for boarding.
No longer …
When Uganda’s main international aviation gateway finally opened on the 01st of October, months after our neighbours for that matter, had new protocols and operating procedure been introduced, adding more logistical requirements on wannabe travelers intent to leave the country by air.
First, and key to travel, is the required COVID19 negative test, which must be carried out within 72 hours before departure and notable does the clock begin to tick when the test is conducted, NOT when the results are released. It has been established that travelers have been barred from entering the airport after falling foul of these time limits.
While a range of facilities in Kampala, Entebbe and of late also Mbarara are able to take the test swabs, do most then send the vials to an official laboratory where the actual test is carried out.
Cost, as reported on ATCNews before, varies, as does the time frame within which the results are transmitted – which can take anywhere between 6 to 10 hours to two days. The need for speed does influence the cost of course and the faster the results are needed the more a traveler has to pay.
That hurdle taken, flight booking made, paid for and e-ticket issued, can packing then commence. Most airlines restrict the amount of cabin baggage to reduce the time needed to stow it away and reduce potential contact points for passengers and crew and travelers should more strictly observe these rules today than was the case in the past. It has been mentioned that both checked bags and cabin bags would be sanitized – at least the handles – but no evidence was seen to that effect when checking in at Entebbe.
I had opted to use the NAS – formerly ENHAS – Pearl Assist service, available for departing and arriving passengers, to ease the process of navigating through the various security and health check points before reaching the check in counters, but the service extends beyond that through immigration, into the lounge and then to the point of boarding.
First was my test result checked and the bar code scanned – from my phone, no hard copies are required – before I could proceed to the terminal entrance. There, as before, are passports looked at as are tickets following which entrance into the departure terminal is granted.
The immediate entrance security check is then conducted as was the case before, of all bags as well as the personal scan and when passed can one then proceed to the airline’s check in counter.
There again, are passport, ticket and yellow fever certificate checked before one is actually able to proceed to the counter itself. Plexiglass shields keep the distance between airline and handling agency staff and passenger.
The Brussels Airlines staff, as usual, were at their friendliest best, not having seen me for nearly 9 months since my last flight with them, and with my seat prebooked were the bags swiftly labelled and tagged before beginning their own journey on the baggage band into the loading area at ground level.
Next came immigration, the desks equally upgraded with added safety measures in the form of plexiglass shields. The staff were wearing masks and gloves while handling the passport and after I had scanned my finger prints I used my own sanitizer to clean my hands.
Next then came another new feature which needs to be mentioned.
In the past were boarding security checks carried out at every gate – there are four in use right now at Entebbe International Airport – but now a single departure area entrance point check has been installed, just behind the main duty free shops.
A second such checkpoint has been installed just at the door of the Government VIP Lounge, covering all entrances to the main departure area and ensuring that access to the boarding gate is now less congested, improving the traffic flow considerably.
This single access checkpoint is something ATCNews has repeatedly suggested in the past, as this feature had been introduced at other regional and international airports, but it took the pandemic to finally get this done, and well done for that matter. Better late than never …
Man wearing PPE. Entebbe Airport, Uganda 2020 PHOTO ATCNews.org
My next step of the journey was the use of the Premium Lounge in Entebbe, where again added safety measures had been put into place, including spaced seating. My Pearl Assist service member Robert delivered me to the lounge and escorted me later to the gate for boarding. His shift leaders Carol, who after introducing herself then handed over to Christine, both kept checking on progress, so no passenger booking this service will feel left alone at any stage from arrival at the airport to the point of boarding their aircraft.
Service at the lounge remains friendly but self service is no longer possible as all snacks and drinks MUST be served by staff, who are properly attired with gloves, masks and head shields. Guests can only touch their food and drinks once delivered to their tables, again in line with global health and safety protocols.
The final stage before departure was boarding and as the incoming aircraft from Kigali had landed 25 minutes early was boarding equally called early.
The Pearl Assist service was again at hand, ensured the use of priority boarding and then bid me farewell as Brussels Airlines staff took over. After a final check on my boarding pass and passport was I guided to the aircraft, an Airbus A330-300, for my nonstop flight to Brussels.As always when I travel directly to Europe I use Brussels Airlines for my flight which I already reviewed on TripAdvisor though part 2 of this narrative too will reflect on my experience.
Details of this part of my journey, covering the ‘New Normal’ inflight service, my arrival experience in Brussels and my subsequent onward journey to Germany, will be covered in part 2 of this narrative.
In closing, compliments to the Uganda Civil Aviation Authority for putting effective measures into place to make the flow from arrival to boarding somewhat more efficient compared to the past.
When it rains challenges remain of course to reach the departure level from the parking / drop off area but construction of the new terminal is advancing and that eternal problem – to remain relatively dry when it pours – will then hopefully be a thing of the past.
Staff, from aviation security to health personnel, were markedly more courteous and friendly, perhaps reminded by the 7 months grounding that it is travelers which keep them employed and who deserve a friendly disposition at all times and at all locations.
You can read the original article here on ATCNews.org
Wolfgang is a prolific writer and blogger at ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News. He is an aviation expert and has worked at a strategic level in tourism across East Africa for over four decades. He posts daily #COVID19 updates at 6 am and 6 pm. Read The future of travel in East Africa – Diary of a Muzungu’s interview with Prof Thome.
Related blogs you may find useful:
When can I travel to Uganda? post-lockdown FAQs based on Qs and As with travelers. September 2020
Now is the time to take precautions! US Embassy Kampala August 2020
Coronavirus survival tips: how to work from home based on a decade working from home in Uganda. March 2020
Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda comprehensive health advice. Published March 2020 and updated regularly.
Are you traveling to Uganda? Have you passed through Entebbe Airport during the pandemic? Please share your experiences – or any questions – here. We’d love to read them 🙂
Uniquely Semliki
Semliki Safari Lodge, Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve, western Uganda
Where in Uganda can you enjoy a night game drive, engage with experts who are actively conserving a Protected Area and share stories over Masterchef–calibre dinners at the Captain’s Table?
The luxurious Semliki Safari Lodge sits in the middle of Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, a Protected Area that will soon be upgraded to a National Park. “Uganda’s oldest upmarket tented camp” is equidistant from Lake Albert and the excellent new road from Fort Portal to Bundibugyo that winds its way through jaw-dropping Rift Valley panoramas.
This was my third – and arguably my most interesting – visit to this luxury lodge. My mission? To count birds on behalf of NatureUganda… (while being spoiled rotten!)
Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve’s birdlife is fantastic and easily seen. The wildlife reserve may not have the animal numbers of well-established National Parks but forest elephants and a multitude of primates made for three memorable game drives. One morning I even heard the unmistakable sound of a chimpanzee in the forest below my tent.
If you want to reconnect with nature – in luxury and style – I highly recommend a few days at Semliki Safari Lodge.
“I heard a leopard last night” Lodge Manager Tony announced when we checked in – but would we see one?
Scroll down to read the Muzungu’s account of our night game drive and learn about all the diverse activities you can do in and around the lodge.
Scat, cats and bats! A night game drive in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve
We were thrilled when the team suggested we jump in the lodge’s safari vehicle for a night game drive. As we dimmed our torches, fireflies blinked in the darkness and we bumped along the marram track towards the airstrip.
Our first sighting was a pretty little Genet Cat, similar in size to a domestic cat with a bushy tail. Once I was familiar with their eye colour and size, it was easy to pick out more Genets in the woodland either side of the track.
A few minutes from the lodge, we pulled up next to a big puddle. We were amazed when Tony jumped out and plucked a terrapin from the muddy water! He explained how Side-headed Terrapins are common in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve but only appear when the rain fills up the ruts and gullies. “Our guides drive around the puddles to protect the terrapins, rather than through them.” He added.
On the airstrip, a small flat area of cut grass, we cruised slowly up and down looking for nightjars, shy nocturnal birds that are sometimes seen ‘dust bathing’ on the ground. They are masters of camouflage. It’s only when you (almost) run over them that you notice them fly off in alarm.
According to Stevenson and Fanshawe’s Birds of East Africa “Nightjars are a notoriously difficult group to identify: not only do the species look alike, several have different colour morphs.” Don’t ask this casual birder to tell the two species apart, but our guides did. There were two new ticks for the muzungu that night: a Square-tailed Nightjar and a Slender-tailed Nightjar. Temporarily dazzled by our torches, the nightjars sat silent and immobile giving us the chance to admire their delicate plumage.
A Water Thick-knee pretended not to see us. This mainly nocturnal bird “freezes or squats if disturbed,” the book tells us. How true! “They are easily identified by their well-camouflaged brown plumage, large yellow eyes and long thickly jointed yellowish legs.”
Our nocturnal adventure continued with more interesting creatures: a leopard had visited the airstrip not long before us.
As we swept our torches along the ground, we picked out the small dark shapes of animal droppings. On closer inspection, the leopard scat (poo) was crawling with 40 dung beetles. Tony’s eyes lit up with excitement “I’ve never seen so many!” He said. “It’s the remains of a leopard’s kill.”
As we leaned in for a closer look, we recognised fluffy grey baboon fur among the dung beetles, moths and leopard scat. The beetles had clearly been industrious in the preceding 24-hours: little remained of the baboon prey.
Back in the vehicle, we spotted the ears of a young Kob poking through the long grass at the verge of the airstrip.
“Don’t disturb it.” Tony explained how we must not draw attention to this lone calf. It would make easy pickings for a leopard.
As we drove back to the lodge – and around the puddles – a Yellow-winged Bat swept through the night air. The beam of the headlights picked out a Defassa Waterbuck in the sanctuary of the lodge grounds. We may not have seen the leopard, but it was clearly around.
Wining, dining and sleeping – Semliki Safari Lodge’s creature comforts
Even with the reduced number of staff (due to the pandemic) the lodge did a tremendous job of looking after us. Every mouthful of food was delicious. Each ingredient is carefully considered, from the home-made chili to the exquisite pumpkin soup and pretty creations of delicate salad leaves. Breakfast is a gourmet affair of poached eggs with bacon and rocket, cereals and tropical fruit served with home-made bread, chunky marmalade and excellent coffee.
Every night, guests are invited to dine by candlelight with the lodge managers at the Captain’s Table, a rare treat at a Ugandan lodge. Tony and Noline are seasoned Safari experts. (I would revisit Semliki Safari Lodge any time for these shared dining experiences alone!)
The huge dining table – fashioned from one gigantic slab of wood – is perfect for social distancing. Semliki’s main living area of chunky sofas, tribal art and wall murals by the artist Taga is rather grand.
All rooms are fitted to a high standard. The hardwood floor of the luxury tents felt wonderful underfoot and there is generous amounts of hot water for the showers and luxurious outdoor bathtubs. Persian carpets and antique furniture recall a classic African safari. Kikois and slippers are provided, as well as mosquito repellent and a lockable cupboard. Every suite has a daybed on its private deck. (As I write this, I feel the urge to return!)
On a tour of the lodge grounds, lodge manager Tony explained how the units have been re-modelled to maximise the forest views. The new layout almost doubles the floor size of each luxury setup. Where possible, every item has been recycled, including “Amin’s steel,” reclaimed from the ruins of the original Uganda Hotel that once sat on this site. New materials include Elgon olive wood and thatch provided by the nearby Ntoroko Grass Growers’ Association.
Here in the bush, the Uganda Safari Company has invested heavily in solar power, a water borehole, a vegetable garden and more. They supply the water to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and UPDF (army) camps, a key contribution to managing the security of the Wildlife Reserve and its wildlife. Working together, the three organisations have cut the tracks and created a pond for animals to drink from during the dry season, amongst other initiatives. I admire The Uganda Safari Company’s vision – and determination – to protect this little pocket of nature.
What was Diary of a Muzungu doing at Semliki Safari Lodge?
Twice a year the team from Sunbird Hill carry out bird population monitoring on behalf of NatureUganda. Our patch is the Kibale Conservation Area which comprises Kibale National Park, Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Lake Saka / Lake Bikere, Toro Botanical Gardens, Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve.
Why should you go on safari at Semliki Safari Lodge?
Whether you drive – or fly in – to Semliki, I highly recommend game drives with the lodge’s knowledgeable site guides Julius and David. They know the Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve inside out and are full of interesting anecdotes. They are expert drivers too.
What are the rates to stay at Semliki Safari Lodge?
Semliki Safari Lodge have some superb rates for residents. Take advantage of them while you can. The lodge has two packages to choose from: Full Board includes all meals and the Game Package includes meals, certain non-premium drinks and two game drives a day. If you make an enquiry, please say Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉
Recommended activities from Semliki Safari Lodge
- A night game drive to the airstrip.
- Safari game drive on one of the numerous tracks in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve.
- A dip in the lodge swimming pool.
- Sundowners around the lodge campfire at the lodge or at the Semliki Bush Bar on an evening game drive.
- Luxurious bush breakfasts, picnics and private dinners in stunning locations.
- Primate walk in Mugiri Forest below the lodge. Chimp sightings are not guaranteed but you have a good chance of seeing Olive Baboons, Vervet, Red-tailed and Black and White Colobus Monkeys. Bookings can be made at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office next to the lodge entrance.
- Lake Albert and tours to see the Shoebill are 30 minutes’ drive away and can be arranged by the lodge.
- Semliki is “a Mecca for birders” with over 425 species recorded. My birding highlights included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Crested Francolin, Crowned Hornbill, Palm Nut Vulture, Flappet Lark, White-browed Coucal, Grey Kestrel, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Striped Kingfisher, Helmeted Guineafowl, African Paradise Flycatcher, Black-billed Barbet, Northern Black Flycatcher, Oxpecker, Ruppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Long-crested Eagle, Black Coucal, Grey-backed Fiscal, Rattling Cisticcola, Blue-naped Mousebird, Ring-necked Dove, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Ross’s Turaco, Pygmy Kingfisher, Piapiac, Bateleur, African White-backed Vulture, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, Blue-spotted Wood-dove, Little Bee eater, White-banded Snake Eagle, Fork-tailed Drongo, Black-billed Wood-dove, Lanner Falcon, Spotted Morning Thrush – and two species of Nightjar.
- Look for butterflies. The Sunbird Hill team identified over 50 species including: Blue Sailor, Sulphur Orange Tip, Pea Blue, Red Tip, African Queen, Pearl Charaxes, Citrus Swallowtail, Blue Demon Charaxes, Scarlet Tip and Guineafowl Butterfly.
- Birding in Semliki National Park (SNP) or Ntandi along the main road just outside SNP, just over an hour’s drive from the lodge.
- The hot springs at Sempaya, Semliki National Park.
- Do a day – or longer – hike in the Rwenzori foothills. There are a number of tour operators and community organisations that organise hikes. Send me a message if you would like a recommendation.
- Andrew Roberts, co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide, recommends the (very steep) walk from Ntandi to Karagutu.
- Bundibugyo is the Rwenzori region’s closest town to the DRC (just 10km). There is not a lot to do in Bundibugyo but I find it rather charming. It’s a scenic drive, particularly during the rainy seasons. Look out for cocoa plantations along the route.
- Enjoy the Rift Valley scenery. As you drive from Fort Portal, skirting the Rwenzori foothills to the left, there are a number of roadside stops where you can take photographs. To your right is the Kijura Escarpment, the “eastern wall of the Rift Valley” according to Andrew Roberts’ excellent maps of Uganda.
If you love birds, a tranquil pace, seriously great food and stimulating company, you will love Semliki Safari Lodge. It’s perfect for seasoned safari-goers who want to reconnect with nature.
Would you like to visit Semliki? Which activities would you try?
Read more about Semliki Safari Lodge in my Travel Directory and, if you make an enquiry, please mention the Muzungu sent you 😉
Will you support the campaign to save Bugoma Forest?
Bugoma Forest: A garden of Eden under threat.
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, I’m passionate about the environment. It’s devastating to hear how advanced the plans are to destroy yet more indigenous forest. The campaign to #SaveBugomaForest is gathering momentum – but do we have time? I’m delighted to see the New Vision Group promoting the cause to save Bugoma Forest. Thank you to New Vision Group for allowing me to republish this article by Gerald Tenywa, first published by them on 30th September 2020.
Scroll down to watch a short video clip from Malcolm Webb of Al Jazeera entitled Uganda: Bugoma forest reserve facing destruction.
Vision Group begins a campaign to save Bugoma Forest.
ENVIRONMENT | #SAVEBUGOMAFOREST
A chunk of Bugoma Forest Reserve is being cleared for sugarcane growing. There is no doubt this will bring jobs and some social services closer to the people. But the encroachment could start and soon the whole forest will be gone. Dire climate change consequences will follow. Today, Vision Group begins a campaign to save Bugoma Forest.
The birds chirp in the trees. Not far away, black and white colobus monkeys shy away as a tiny path into the wildlife sanctuary unveils what part of the 41,000ha Bugoma Forest Reserve offers. The birds and monkeys are part of Bugoma Central Forest. It is their natural home. But they are threatened with eviction as part of the forest is being cleared for sugarcane growing.
The National Environment Management Authority (NEMA), gave a go-ahead to the sugar project, an indication that it sees no negative impact on the environment when the forest is replaced by sugarcane. Yet, once it is cleared the birds and chimpanzees will not have a home.
Already, they have been under threat from farmland and logging activities. A Vision Group team is in the forest, accompanied by Nazario Asiimwe, a tour guide. Chimpanzees cry out, jumping from one tree to another.
Asiimwe explains the loud cries as grumbling because the chimps are not comfortable with the intrusion into their homeland. “This is one of the better days when you do not have to labour to see some of Bugoma’s best kept secrets,” Asiimwe says.
He explains that on some days you have to walk for hours before you can spot a chimpanzee or colobus monkey.
Costantino Tessarin, an investor in tourism accommodation, says Bugoma is endowed with chimpanzees. He points out that some of them are undergoing habituation.
Habituation is a process through which primates such as chimpanzees get used to human presence without losing their wild character. The habituation of the chimps in Bugoma started last year and they could be open to tourism in the coming year.
Already, primate tourism in Bugoma is generating a lot of interest. This is because an endemic species of monkeys known as the Ugandan mangabey has become an eye-catcher for tourists. “Ugandan mangabeys are the flagbearers of Bugoma,” Tessarin says, adding that animals are also being re-introduced in the nearby Kabwoya Wildlife Reserve.
Tessarin says to track the Ugandan mangabey, tourists have to part with $40 (sh150,000). This is higher than the nature walk which goes for $25 (sh100,000). Tracking chimps could go for as a high as $200 (sh740,000).
In other parks with chimps, Ugandans part with sh150,000 to track them. Resident non-nationals (expatriates) pay $150 (sh553,000) and foreign tourists $200 (740,000). Tourism is the highest foreign exchange earner in Uganda.
In 2017, Uganda earned $1.4b from the sector. This was expected to double to $2.7b (sh9.8 trillion) by 2020. Tourism earnings are about 10% of Uganda’s Gross Domestic Product, according to the Uganda Tourism Board.
Given that Hoima is located only 200 km from Kampala, Bugoma and Kabwoya could become the tourism destination nearest to Kampala. Mbarara where Lake Mburo National Park is found and Mbale that is blessed with Mt. Elgon National Park are located 240km from the capital city. Murchison Falls National Park is 203 km away.
BIG TOURISM POTENTIAL
Tessarin says the tourism potential of Bugoma and Kabwoya wildlife reserve is immense, but is barely being scratched.
He says Bugoma promises to become a stopover for tourists heading to the northern tourist circuit (Murchison Falls National Park) and the southern tourist circuit (Queen Elizabeth National Park, Kibale National Park and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park).
The prospects of Bugoma and Kabwoya as a stopover have increased with the construction of the road linking the Kampala-Gulu highway to Fort Portal through Kigumba, Masindi, Hoima and Kyenjojo.
In addition to the Kigumba-Kyenjojo road, Bunyoro has been networked with the construction of the oil roads. The connectivity will increase further with the construction of Hoima International Airport.
The discovery of oil is also bringing many people, including workers and expatriates, to Hoima and Buliisa. This could become part of the market Bugoma and Kabwoya should be looking up to. “Bugoma could be the new tourism hub,” Tessarin says.
In 2018, the hotel hosted 196 tourists. The number increased to 276 last year. This year, the numbers were projected to increase to 350400 before COVID-19 spoilt Bugoma’s party.
Another accommodation facility was supposed to be set up at Lwera. However, the investment in a second lodge is being discouraged by the encroachment on Bugoma by the expansive sugarcane plantation.
SUGARCANE IN BUGOMA
Hoima Sugar Limited, a private company, is moving into the heart of Bugoma, clearing part of the ancient forest for growing of sugarcane. The sugar company leased the land from Gafabusa Iguru, the king of Bunyoro.
This was three days after the Bunyoro king acquired a land title for the land, which also houses a cultural site for the kings of Bunyoro. This land was carved out of Bugoma after the king of Bunyoro claimed ownership of the land adding that not far from Bugoma are Kabwoya and Lake Albert.
At Bugoma, Tessarin is turning his dreams into reality. He has built Jungle Lodge at the fringes of Bugoma Forest.
As Hoima Sugar clears 5,779.7ha, part of Bugoma near Nsozi in Kyangwali sub-county, MZ Agencies is also clearing a swathe of forest sitting on 2,000ha from Kisaru. The two investments are eating into the heart of Bugoma towards Kaseeta.
Mustafa Zaidi, a tycoon in Hoima city, owns MZ Agencies. This will not only destroy the beauty of Bugoma, but also pose a risk to the chimps that are categorised as endangered species. Muhangaizima, where the companies are operating, is where most of the 600 chimps housed by the forest stay.
“The chimps are going to lose their habitat,” says Bashir Hangi, the public relations manager of Uganda Wildlife Authority. “Do you know what this means? Human-wildlife conflicts are going to escalate. The chimps are going to get into contact with the human population and grab their children as well as destroy crops.”
Link to original article on New Vision.
SAVE BUGOMA FOREST CAMPAIGN supporters include the Uganda Tourism Association, Association of Uganda Tour Operators, Association of Uganda Tour Guides, Association of Uganda Travel Agents, Uganda Jungle Lodges Ltd, Rosaline Place LTD, Destination Jungle Ltd, NGO Uganda Coalition, Association for the Conservation of Bugoma Forest, Association of Scouts of Uganda, Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust, Joint Energy and Environment Projects (JEEP), Tree Talk Plus, Care International, ACODE, Youth Leading Environment Change (YLEC), Bugoma Chimpanzee Project, Eco-trust, NAPE.
Please share the links and let’s #SaveBugomaForest.
Got anything to add? Please share it here.
We Asked for Fascinating Stories of Lockdown Abroad. And Wow, Did We Get Them
Fodor’s Travel writers around the world share what life is like under lockdown. (Scroll down to read how lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest looks – one year down the line.)
Fodor’s Travel asks What are expats around the world doing during Coronavirus?
“With guidebooks that cover every continent except Antarctica, Fodor’s has a network of writers that extends across the globe. Some of our writers cover the places in which they grew up, while others are constantly on the move. Here, we’ve asked some of our expat writers what it’s like to be a travel writer who can’t return to their home country.”
Kibale Forest, western Uganda
March 25th 2020: “Lockdown is imminent in Uganda. The airport and borders are closed, and all schoolchildren were sent home two weeks ago. Bars, restaurants, markets, churches, and mosques are closed until further notice (and ban-breakers are being arrested). However, few people are taking social distancing seriously and with crowded public transport and densely populated slums, we are bracing ourselves for the worst. Until a couple of weeks ago, most Ugandans thought coronavirus was a disease that only affected China until we had our first confirmed case last week—a 36-year-old Ugandan man who had traveled to Dubai.
I live off-grid on the edge of Kibale National Park; I am in an enviable position. However, we are scared too. If one of us is ill, clinics are a long drive away and poorly-equipped when we get there. Although we are in such a lucky position, deep in the village and with a good supply of food, we have lost all our business. The capital Kampala is six hours away and my travel via public transport is no longer an option.
My income is from tourism. Most of my clients are tour operators and lodges who have had virtually all their trips and bookings canceled. We have no accommodation bookings. I’ve been alarmed at the lack of information online in Uganda about coronavirus, so I have published a blog about coronavirus that collates the best (verified) information. I’m updating it on a regular basis in my attempt to bridge the information gap here. It’s given me purpose too. Overall, I’m doing okay emotionally, but my biggest worry is my 70+-year old parents in the UK; I have not seen them for over a year.
We are prepared for full-on lockdown here in Kibale Forest. I now exercise every day and try to sleep well (and act silly as often as I can manage!) We start home-schooling my nine-year-old nephew this week — there are challenges in every direction we look!”
—Charlotte Beauvoisin’s profile on Fodor’s.com
You can read the full article, with contributions from 20 travel writers from across the world, on Fodor’s Travel.
“When she’s not traveling around East Africa, you’ll find Charlotte Beauvoisin watching chimpanzees and birds from the balcony of her wooden cottage on the edge of Kibale National Park, Uganda. She’s lived in Uganda since 2009 and has updated the Uganda section of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.“
The Muzungu adds: I joke to Julia that we have ‘won the Lockdown Lottery.’ Every morning I walk the forest-edge trails of Sunbird Hill. It is quite something to have this all to ourselves and I treasure every moment: birding, butterfly-watching, and occasionally chimp watching too! There is so much to see, hear and learn about Kibale Forest, nature is throwing stories at me ‘thick and fast.’ Lockdown has given me the time to learn more bird calls, identify butterflies and Coleoptera (beetles), watch primates and teach my 9 year old nephew Dillon how to take photos. I know the trails like the back of my hand now…
I left the comforts of Kampala for a temporary sojourn on the edge of Kibale National Park. Two years later and I’m still based here! Since I’m frequently on the road – anywhere between Watamu on the Kenyan coast and Musanze in the northern province of Rwanda, lockdown in Kibale Forest – with no tourists – is in fact quite a treat, an opportunity to immerse myself in a beautiful corner of East Africa…
March 2021: Grateful everyday recalls a year of #LockdownDiaries – locked down with nature.
So how has lockdown been for you? Have you learned anything new? I hope you are managing to get outside too 🤗
My house is alive!
What is disturbing me? That simple answer eludes me tonight…
My house is alive!
(You know when there’s something in your house don’t you?)
I sense something… and wake in the dead of the night.
I’m accustomed to echos from the forest: the buttress drumming of chimpanzees, cicadas, the ‘yawning’ sound of black and white Colobus, the insistent call of the Red-chested Cuckoo, the occasional trumpeting of an elephant… but tonight’s noise is subtle. And it’s all around me.
I switch on the light, hoping I will hear the frightened scuttling noise of a mouse or rat. Nothing.
Faint sounds suggest the ‘pitter patter’ of rain but that’s not it. There is definitely something moving in my house…
I hear a rustling sound high in the thatch above my head.
I thump the mattress with my foot to try and disturb ‘it.’
Nothing.
My wooden house has big gaps between the floorboards. Every forest sound – and some of its creatures – permeate it. I bathe in the soothing sounds of the wild. I feel secure under my net.
And then THUD.
A big thud usually means a gecko – or occasionally a snake! – has fallen out of the thatch. I don’t see anything.
I fall out of bed but nothing moves in the alarm I’m trying to create.
I can’t be bothered to find my glasses but notice a wasp flying around my light (unusually active at this hour). On the floor is a moth, struggling to fly. I think nothing of it.
I put in my ear plugs and turn on my side for a minute… let me sleep…
Minutes pass but it’s no good, my senses are bristling now.
This time I get up properly. On with the glasses and – with just one eye open, fearing what I may see – I switch on the main light.
SIAFU!
Read: Ants With Attitude
Ahead of me, past the end of my bed, are a thousand black dots. A thousand moving black dots that are eating everything in their path.
Everything falls into place – the minuscule noises, the panicking insects, the sense that I am not alone…
When the siafu move in, EVERYTHING moves out. Moths, geckos and spiders scarper before the invasion of the ravenous, relentless army.
I don’t hesitate. I too scarper to the kitchen where I tear off my pyjamas as I feel the ants bite.
By 7.30 am – just two hours later – there is barely any evidence of the tiny reasons for abandoning my bed. (Have I imagined the invasion?)
All is quiet again.
All is still.
The only trace of the siafus’ passage is a fine dust debris…
In the morning I found this fragment of discarded snakeskin on my floor. My ‘siafu cleaning team’ had made a thorough job of cleaning the inside of my thatched roof!
Read more about my life on the edge of Kibale Forest.
Coronavirus survival tips: how to work from home
The muzungu’s kick-ass tips for working at home during the Coronavirus lockdown in Uganda
As many Ugandans wake up to the new reality of Coronavirus (read my extensive guide with practical tips here) and the need to work from home, I thought I’d share my personal tips for managing a virtual office.
I’ve been working home since 2009 when I arrived in Uganda as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. The organisation budget was tight: I slept in one bedroom and the office was in another bedroom of the shared house. Although it was convenient for me (hooray no sweaty matatu taxi rides to work) I also found it difficult as I had the feeling I was always on duty. Since then, I have spent most of my time as a freelancer, often working from my bedroom. It hasn’t been ideal but I’ve made it work for me.
I have been in lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest since March 23rd. You can read my story here at no. 3 in Fodor’s Travel’s article “We Asked for Fascinating Stories of Lockdown Abroad. And Wow, Did We Get Them.”
Are you working from home for the first time?
There’s a lot to take in right now as you swap the stresses of the daily commute for the challenges of bosses and clients expecting you to meet deadlines in a wholly different environment. Everyone’s adjusting to the Coronavirus outbreak in different ways. I hope you find something of use in this blog. If not, tell me, what have I missed?
Here are my personal do’s and don’ts for working productively from home during the Coronavirus outbreak
- DO keep regular hours. Don’t lie in until 11 am. If you usually commute to work, you will have more time than usual to work. If you normally work from 9 to 5, try keeping those hours. Give yourself a lunch break. Some people find it hard to start work in the morning. I’m the opposite, I find it hard to switch off at night (!)
- DO keep a separate working area. This should be separate from where you eat. If you have to work at the kitchen, try and keep working and eating as separate activities. Meals should be appreciated and enjoyed. Food and drinks near laptops and phones can be a disaster, I know! I once spilled a cup of tea over my laptop keyboard. It can happen to any of us. You’re supposed to be social distancing at home; you don’t want to be running to the computer shop because you had an IT disaster.
- DON’T work in bed. Bed is for resting, sleeping, reading and ‘other stuff.’ Bed is your personal sanctuary where you unwind and relax. If you’re in bed checking your phone, or typing away on your laptop, you are not giving your brain the personal space you need to relax fully. Go easy on yourself. Every evening by 9 pm, sometimes earlier, I switch my phone to airplay mode. Studies show that if you have an electronic device near you, your brain is mentally checking in, even if you are not touching the device. You need your beauty sleep, especially right now.
- DO get organised. Think about aspects of your regular working environment that work well and try to recreate that if you can. Be creative!
- DO tell your family and friends when you are working. Make it clear that between certain times e.g. 9 to 5 o’clock, you have work commitments. They can support you by respecting this – giving you a call at an agreed time when you’re done. (This gives you something to look forward to as well).
- DO think about which Internet provider is giving you the best service. Now is the time to shop around. I hot spot between two internet providers.
- DO be considerate. If you are covering your own data bill, you might want to work into the night but think about the knock-on effect of that. It may mean you’re useless in the morning when colleagues need to speak to you. Think about how your working antisocial hours can impact your family and the people you live with. Is it fair to them if you are cranky all the time? We’re all going to need a bit more patience than normal so cut yourself – and everyone around you – a bit of slack. Try and create routines that suit everyone in your living space.
- DO be economical. Think carefully about your Internet use. If you work from home, make sure you have enough data to meet your deadlines. Don’t watch Netflix all night then tell the boss you are out of data. Be sensible. Don’t take your job for granted. Many have already lost theirs.
- DO keep in contact with colleagues on a regular basis. Office life is a lot more than deadlines. Even if you can’t stand your colleagues (!) you will be used to interacting with them and their everyday chitchat. Find a way to keep that going if you can. Zoom meetings, WhatsApp groups, Facebook groups, Skype conference calls, Google Hangouts, there are dozens of different ways of creating a virtual chatroom. Most of them are free.
- DO embrace technology. Make use of online project collaboration tools. These can be as simple as Google Docs and Google Sheets, or try Dropbox. Rather than emailing attachments to each other, set up online sharing / collaboration systems, where you can see people’s comments and edits ‘in real time’ (without worrying that there are three different versions of the one document in circulation). These kinds of tools can make you a lot more productive. When you go back to the office, you may wonder how you never used them before! I work with many people who I never meet in person. We collaborate well with a combination of Dropbox, Google Docs, WhatsApp and CoSchedule (blog and social media promotion software). I can be a total geek you know!
- DO check that your laptop and phone software are up-to-date. Check your antivirus software. (Aren’t there enough viruses doing the rounds?) You don’t want a software meltdown when you’re hiding at home far away from the IT department. That said, Teamviewer is a great free piece of software that allows remote access. My IT guy in Kampala can remotely access my laptop when I need him to check something out for me, even if I’m travelling.
- DO think about how you keep track of your time. Your boss or client may require you to prove how much time you have worked on different projects. I use some software called Toggl.com.
- DO keep physically active. This is easier said than done so that’s why a routine is important. If you can, go for a (fast) walk or run first thing in the morning. This sets up your metabolism for the day and will clear your head. Get the blood pumping, increase your heartbeat, don’t hang around chatting to people, just wave at them and go on your way. (Remember social distancing, even while you’re exercising). If you can’t get out of the house, how about doing some squats? Get on YouTube and take part in a fitness class. Call up a friend and ask them to do a YouTube exercise class with you while you’re on the phone together. Having a walk late afternoon is a good way to mark the end of your working day too.
- In South Africa, recreational running and walking outside your house / garden was banned during lockdown. Read how Bradt Travel Guide writer Philip Briggs has been managing his fitness by running a loop around his cabbages!
- DO work standing up if you can. Studies show that it is better for you than sitting hunched over a laptop.
If you are making phone calls, stand up, take a walk around where you live, look out of the window, look up at the sky, look at the birds. Your voice projects better when you are standing up and you will feel more comfortable as well. - DON’T have work meetings at home. You’re in isolation, right?
- DO drink plenty of water.
- DON’T sit at your desk snacking all day. It’s easy to put on weight when you’re working from home. Not only are you sitting at your desk or table all day, but you are not walking around the office, or walking to the taxi stage like you do most days. Sometimes we snack when we are bored.
At the start of the day, imagine you are getting ready to travel to work and plan your snacks. Prepare something and have it ready for when you want a break. Low-fat items like apples and chopped carrots are good for you. Boiled eggs and (plain) yoghurt are filling. Go easy on the ground nuts, chapatis and rolex! If you like bananas, don’t eat more than one. They’re pure starch and if you sit on your kabina (backside) all day, that thing will grow! - DO cut back on your sugar intake and soda drinking.
- DON’T hit the bottle too often, tempting as it might be. You’ll put on weight if you drink too much alcohol and may get mood swings too. If you smoke weed, don’t go overboard. Normal everyday life will be back with us soon enough…
- DON’T sit around all day in your night clothes. (It will feel rather weird if your boss rings and you are half dressed). If you are dressed in your work clothes, it will help you focus on the tasks ahead.
- DO enjoy time off. Just because your laptop is there, don’t become a work bore (like me!) Weekends are for relaxing, even when you’re working from home. Get away from the screen. If you are on the laptop all day, and then watching TV or playing computer games (more screens), your brain may fry, my dear! Read a book or newspaper, play cards, cook, sew, do a spot of gardening, plant tomatoes on your balcony, listen to music and podcasts, sing, play music… even washing clothes or polishing your shoes can be therapeutic. Pray, meditate, do some yoga … stroke the cat.
- DO take a digital detox. Take time out from watching Coronavirus news and following social media. It may clear your mind and destress you. The world will keep turning!
If you find it hard to ignore social media, turn off all the notifications. - DON’T suffer unnecessarily, DO reach out for support.
- DON’T leave the house during lockdown unless absolutely necessary. If you have to go out, social distance two metres from others. Wash your hands with plenty of soap for at least 20 seconds. Use hand sanitiser containing 60% or more alcohol (if there’s no soap). When you get home, jump straight in the shower. Read more practical tips here on my extensive Coronavirus blog which I update on a weekly basis.
When I’m not working from home, I train businesses in digital marketing and travel across East Africa (usually by public transport). I feel like my wings are clipped right now but let’s remember this enforced ‘time out’ is for our greater good.
#StaySafeStayHome #StaySafeUG #StaySafe
Ugandan friends, what are your tips for working from home during Coronavirus?
Do you have tips to share or is working from home a new experience for you? I’d love to know your thoughts here or send me a personal message.
Bradt Uganda – the definitive guidebook. Edition 9 out now!
Interview with author and travel writer Philip Briggs
It’s funny to think that twelve years ago I knew very little about Uganda. My teenage dream was to live in sub-Saharan Africa and finally I was here, working as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. The first book I bought was the *Bradt Guidebook, the go-to travel planning resource for Uganda. Imagine how delighted I was – a decade later – to finally meet author Philip Briggs on a fact-finding trip to Uganda and how excited I am to be a (minor) contributor to the new edition.
As you might guess, I had been wanting to meet Philip for a long time. I had lots of questions I wanted to ask him! He is author of dozens of guidebooks to a long list of countries. When I grow up, I want to be like Phil.
You’ve been writing the Uganda guidebook for almost 30 years. Where did you travel on your first visit here?
“I first visited Uganda in 1988 on the recommendation of another backpacker I met in Kenya. I travelled to Ruhija (Bwindi Impenetrable Forest) on the back of a tractor to track mountain gorillas. Back then it only cost US$1 but the gorillas weren’t really habituated, and I didn’t see them, just heard them voicing their disapproval from the depths of a facing slope. Since then I have had several more successful tracking excursions, in Rwanda and the Congo as well as in Uganda!
I returned to Uganda in 1992 to research the first edition of the Bradt Guide. A highlight of that trip was a 30 km bike ride from Bulisa to Murchison Falls. There was no lodge there then, I stayed in a Uganda Wildlife Authority / UPDF camp, which is now the site of Red Chilli. I also did the boat ride to the Bottom of Murchison Falls.”
What do you think of tourism in Uganda now?
“Tourism has come a long way since the late 80s and early 90s, when there were a handful of ‘proper’ hotels, and facilities catering to budget travellers were pretty limited. Now there are often dozens of good hotels and lodges in places that then had nothing – for instance Lake Bunyonyi, Murchison Falls, Bwindi, Bujagali.
I didn’t visit Uganda between 2005 and 2015 (a period during which the book was updated by Andrew Roberts) and I saw massive changes – almost all for the better – in Uganda’s tourism industry when finally I did return in 2015.
Uganda tourism hasn’t changed a lot since the last edition of the Bradt Guidebook (published in 2016). Tourism seem to have stabilised and got better overall.
On my most recent visit (2019), I was very impressed with the standard of guiding by Uganda Wildlife Authority. All the guides we had on our most recent trip come across as being very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the park where they work, and its wildlife.”
What happens if you visit a lodge or hotel that’s in the guide and the standards have dropped?
“When I first started writing the Bradt Uganda Guidebook 30 years ago, there were just a few hotels and lodges, so I included them all, even those that warranted quite negative write-ups. These days there are far too many for us to include them all, so accommodation listings are more selective, and I tend to just remove anywhere that I can’t write about in a positive way.”
What is the value of buying a guidebook in these days of social media?
“Online information for countries like Uganda still tends to be quite scattered and patchy. Guidebooks tend to be more comprehensive and coherent resources, with a lot of background and contextual information set against practical information, accommodation and restaurant listings and cross-referenced maps. The Bradt Guide in particular has pretty much all the information you would need to plan a trip to Uganda in one place, logically organised by somebody who knows the country well into cohesive and well-structured regional chapters over almost 600 pages. You simply won’t find that kind of thing in the internet.
That is not to knock social media and other online resources; they most certainly have their place. For me, though, I would still always prefer to use a good guidebook as my initial and primary planning resource and switch over to social media and other online resource for supplementary information.
I also find that people who rely on word-of-mouth channels often end up visiting the same few well-publicised places and doing the same few activities. A guidebook generally offers a greater diversity of off-the-beaten-track options.”
For people who already have a copy of the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, why should they buy the latest edition?
“The most substantial change to the new edition is the expanded coverage of Karamoja and the north-east of Uganda. However, it’s also lots and lots of small details: removing places that have closed and the inclusion of many new places that opened since the eighth edition was researched. (For example in the vicinity of Kibale Forest, we’ve included at least six new lodges, hotels and restaurants, and Sunbird Hill). Prices and contact details for more established lodges are also fully updated. Essentially with edition nine, the Uganda Bradt Guidebook is a whole lot more up-to-date!
Bradt co-author Andrew Roberts was responsible for updating the Kampala section of the guidebook, which has been reorganised to promote more activities and days out.”
What is your least favourite activity when you are researching a destination?
“Checking hotels and lodges. There seem to be more places that need checking with every new edition, and it isn’t something that personally interests me, but it needs to be done!”
Is travel still fun when you’re a travel writer?
“Generally, yes. If I’m walking around a town in the sunshine, it’s certainly more fun than sitting behind a desk. If you’re tracking chimps, it’s great fun of course but if you’re looking at hotels it’s …” Philip pulls a face… (so I think we can guess the answer to that one!)
Diary of a Muzungu writes: Thanks Philip for your insights! It’s amazing to read how much Uganda has changed in the last 30 years.
What’s new for edition 9?
I was delighted to make a few recommendations for the latest edition of Bradt Uganda. They included:
Entanda Cultural Adventure in Mityana
“Head to the award-winning Entanda Cultural Adventure in Mityana to experience a few hours of traditional Ugandan life: expect a joyous welcome of dancing and drumming, bountiful organic fruits, a local lunch and a chance to try traditional hunting and listen to the traditional wisdom (and bedroom secrets!) of the ‘senga,’ all part of your initiation into Buganda culture.” Read the full listing in Bradt Uganda edition 9. Entanda also has a listing in my Travel Directory.
In the Shadow of Chimpanzees, Kibale Forest edge
“Brainchild of primatologist Julia Lloyd, Sunbird Hill is a private birding site that coordinates the NatureUganda Bird Population Monitoring Programme for the Kibale area and is affiliated to registered community / conservation charity In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. More than 240 bird species have been recorded, including 13 of 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda, and the keenly sought green-breasted pitta.” Read the full listing in Bradt Uganda edition 9. In the Shadow of Chimpanzees also features in my Travel Directory.
The Bradt Uganda Guidebook is quite a tome (at 600+ pages, paperback or digital), but there is no other guidebook like it. It works very well read in conjunction with Diary of a Muzungu 😊”arguably Uganda’s two best travel resources,” according to Mr Briggs.
Bradt Uganda also has an update site where travellers can share their experiences. Philip refers to these updates when he and Andrew Roberts are updating the guidebook, every three years. (Some lodges find it useful to add information there too although there’s no guarantee of inclusion in the subsequent guidebook).
Who is Philip Briggs?
Philip Briggs has been exploring the highways, byways and backwaters of Africa since 1986, when he spent several months backpacking on a shoestring from Nairobi to Cape Town. In 1991, he wrote the Bradt guide to South Africa, the first such guidebook to be published internationally after the release of Nelson Mandela. Over the rest of the 1990s, Philip wrote a series of pioneering Bradt travel guides to destinations that were then – and in some cases still are – otherwise practically uncharted by the travel publishing industry. These included the first dedicated guidebooks to Tanzania, Uganda, Ethiopia, Malawi, Mozambique, Ghana and Rwanda, new additions of which been published regularly ever since. More recently, he has authored Bradt guides to Somaliland, Suriname, Sri Lanka and The Gambia, all published by Bradt. He spends at least four months on the road every year, usually accompanied by his wife, the travel photographer Ariadne Van Zandbergen, and spends the rest of his time battering away at a keyboard in the sleepy coastal village of wilderness in South Africa’s Western Cape.
How do I buy a copy of this fantabulous what to the what guidebook?
Click here to visit the Bradt Guides website. The guidebook is also available at Aristoc in Kampala and all good bookshops.
Are you a Bradt Guidebook fan? Which places in Uganda have you discovered as a result of reading the book? I’d love to know 🙂
How to be a Mukiga woman – meet Agartha!
Pause for a quick stopover between Bwindi and Ishasha in Queen Elizabeth and taste rural Ugandan life with the indefatigable Agartha!
Agartha’s Taste of Uganda Tour is fun, educational and perfect for the inquisitive visitor who wonders how a rural Ugandan lady lives. Spend half an hour or more with Agartha and see how locally grown millet is transformed into porridge and bread.
Grind it, sip it, get involved!
I’m a big fan of community tourism and this one’s a winner -an award-winner in fact. As well as being an authentic cultural experience, Agartha boasts arguably the funkiest toilet between Bwindi and Queen Elizabeth National Park! It’s a long drive between the two parks and a quick stopover at Agartha’s is a perfect place for stretching the legs and drinking some refreshing bushera millet porridge. Agartha’s hut is a cool place to sit and sample local life.
A typical day on Agartha’s Taste of Uganda Tour
Visitors are welcomed to Agartha’s homestead where you will be invited to sit in her beautiful grass-thatched hut. Here she takes great pride in sharing how the women of her tribe, the Bakiga, prepare their favourite food. Hear how the ingredients are grown and harvested and witness how to shift, grind, cook – and most importantly – keep the food warm for their husbands and children.
The approach is always dusty. It’s a typical village setting – of bicycles, jerry cans, young children and the occasional boda boda. There are few cars here.
Agartha demonstrates how local women treat dry millet, one of the community’s staple foods. She spreads the freshly picked millet in a large flat basket in front of us and works the seeds with her feet, separating them from the stalk. (Agartha has some good dance moves!)
The next part of the process is called winnowing and involves using a wide woven basket to gently throw the grains into the air to let the dry husks blow away. Agartha may invite you to have a go! Next, we are invited to pound the millet with a dry stone to dehusk it. Not as easy as it looks!
The hard work of grinding out of the way, Agartha mixes the millet flour with hot water to make a porridge. (Most Ugandans will add lots of sugar to the mixture as well). Now for the best part: we sip porridge from traditional gourds and munch on freshly roasted soybeans and groundnuts.
Agartha explains that the Bakiga wife must keep the porridge warm for when the husband gets home from the bar(!) Millet porridge is also the first meal a woman receives after giving birth. Millet is high in iron, which helps with the lactation process.
Chatting with Agartha and sampling millet porridge gives you an interesting insight into the everyday life of a Bakiga woman. Three children walk past the open door as we chat. The young girl carries a woven shopping basket. The boy carries a hoe. He is only nine or ten years old. The youngest boy, who can be no more than five, tries to balance a machete on his head. Ducks waddle past the front door.
Agartha and her family live on the edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park, near the Ishasha Sector. The talented Agartha is a craftswoman, tailor and an organic subsistence farmer. She is also the Chairperson of the local community group.
How long does Agartha’s Taste of Uganda Tour take?
You can take part in Agartha’s Taste of Uganda tour any time of the day (strictly by prior arrangement). The tour lasts 30 to 45 minutes and is adjusted according to the time you have available. (Do tell Agartha how long you would like the tour to take when you arrive).
Agartha’s Taste of Uganda Tour is on the main road between UWA Ishasha park gate and Kihihi.
Can I just rock up at Agartha’s when I’m driving through Ishasha?
No please don’t. Agartha is a working farmer so you need to book at least two days in advance (even if you just want to make use of the toilet!) Reservations can be made by phone or email or via your tour operator.
Go to Agartha’s Taste of Uganda Tour in my Travel Directory for booking information and answers to these questions: How much does the tour cost? Where does the money for the tour go? What do other visitors say about Agartha’s Tour? How can I book? How do I get to Agartha’s?
Have you visited Agartha’s? Tell me what your experience was like. I think it’s a brilliant project!
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Lunch arrived – squawking – on a boda boda
Being hungry in Kasese can be a bit of a challenge.
Part I
Ordering dinner after 9 pm upcountry usually means little in the way of choice. Ordering from the girl who only occasionally keeps an eye on the guests sitting in the cool area outside the front of the hotel means your choice will be further limited by her English.
We were advised to move upstairs to order. Here we were offered menus. My friend’s face beamed as he looked at the variety of choices before us.
“You’ve lived here long enough to know that you can’t go by what the menu says,” I hinted.
It’s a tough life being a chicken in Uganda.
“What do you have please?” He enquired.
“Beef, chicken or liver” came the (standard?) reply.
I settled for a tomato salad – it was that or nothing for the mostly-vegetarian-Muzungu – which comprised one thinly sliced tomato with an equal amount of thickly sliced onion.
After I’d finished, and A had hassled the waitress for his food, a plate of lukewarm pasta – forgotten in the kitchen – eventually arrived. “Where’s the beef I ordered to go with it?” A asked.
“There is none,” came the reply.
Did I say it was a tough life being a chicken in Uganda?
Part II
I need more than a tomato salad to sustain me.
As we sat around in the heat the next day, deciding where to head to next, we ordered some Crest (tonic) and opened our bottle of Uganda Waragi.
After a few minutes drinking, a hotel employee approached our table and whispered in A’s ear.
“It’s a Muslim place,” A said, “he just told me!” It was a bit late by then – we hid the bottle under the table and pretended we were just enjoying our soda.
We looked around us. They weren’t apparently so Muslim that they were offended by the half-naked women starring at the soft-porn-that-passes-for-hip-hop-videos that all eyes were glued to on the TV screen.
I took the plunge and ordered chicken curry. Ten minutes later, a boda boda pulled up outside the hotel with a live chicken hanging upside down between the handlebars.
Call that a coincidence?
You have been warned!
Have you got any funny meal time stories to share? If you’re new to Uganda, you might enjoy some other tips for living here. Read Uganda for beginners.
“I was thinking of getting myself a Muzungu,” he said
The good Samaritan? (Or was he out shopping for a white one?)
They must have watered down my petrol or something. I know the car needs a service but it’s almost impossible to get the car going. I rest my full body weight on the accelerator but nothing happens, nothing happens and suddenly we lurch forward, almost into the back of someone parked in front of me.
The engine is cold and I have to limp out of the car park straight into Kampala’s rush-hour traffic. Drivers impatiently push past me. I’m getting a bit stressed as I pull out onto the roundabout, looking at the rev counter and BANG!
The front right corner of the car is leaning down at an angle and the front wheel is in a hole in the road. The girl driving the car next door to me smiles and says “sorry!”
How the hell am I going to get out of this with no power?
Quick as you like, a Ugandan guy in an office shirt comes over to me. “We need stones in that hole to get you out of it.” He leans into the flowerbed, picks up a couple of rocks. How convenient!
Seconds later, three rough-looking street guys run over to me from different directions. I hear the word ssente (money).
rush hour boda boda Jinja Road Kampala. Diary of a Muzungu
They grab hold of the corner of the car and start rocking it as I put the car in low gear and try to go forward. (Hang on, I better not run the good Samaritans over). I shift into reverse and after the second push, we are out.
Expectant faces lean into the car.
“I’m going to Nakawa, can you drop me there?” Asks the first guy.
Sure, if I’m going to thank anyone, it’s the guy who was first on the scene.
I’m causing a jam and the last thing I want to do is get my purse out in the middle of the traffic jam. I’m totally skint anyway. If I can thank this guy by giving him a lift home, that’s good enough for me.
We drive off with the three street guys shouting after us.
“I thought I’d better let them think I know you so that they leave you alone. These guys can disturb you.” He says. I don’t usually let strange men in my car but, in broad daylight, it seems like a sensible enough option.
As we drive, in the opposite direction to my home, he tells me about himself and his aspirations. Needless to say, there are a couple of predictable topics.
“I’ve just come from the village. There’s a man I know who has lots of children and can’t pay school fees. He was telling me that he’s heard of some organisations that pay school fees and was asking if I could find out. Do you know of any?”
“No, I don’t,” I say, “but if he has so many children, tell your friend to use a condom next time.”
“Yes, he does but sometimes that stuff gets through and sometimes a condom breaks.”
“What, 20 times? He must be very unlucky!” I say.
He laughs. I only know of organizations that help children with HIV and AIDS. Anyway, I don’t feel like getting involved today. “I was thinking of getting myself a Muzungu,” he says.“I think one day I might go to the UK. Do you think I can find a girl there?”
“I’m sure you can find any type of girl, you just have to look when you get there. They’re very different from Ugandan girls though. You better be prepared to do half the cooking, half the cleaning, and half the childcare if you have a British girlfriend.” The young man goes silent. I don’t have the heart to tell him that he probably wouldn’t get into the UK anyway these days.
“Actually when I saw your car stuck, I saw my opportunity.”
It’s funny how even the guy who saves me from the ones who are trying to take advantage of me is also trying to take advantage. I don’t mind, he’s helped me and seems like a sweet guy but the favours and requests do feel a bit relentless at times. At least he hasn’t asked for my phone number.
“… But how do we keep in touch?” He asks as I drop him at his destination.
If you enjoyed this story, I know you’ll love Downtown Dreadlocks, the muzungu’s blind date.
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How to be a tourist – tips for Ugandans who want to travel
How to be a tourist in Uganda: my top 4 tips for young Ugandans who want to travel
I recently received a message from a young Ugandan who wrote “I love touring. What can I do to start touring one of these days?”
Although there are tour companies that develop group packages specifically for Ugandans [read: domestic tourists] here are a few of my ideas to get you started.
Tip no. 1. Add an extra day to an existing trip
You don’t need a lot of money or time to become a tourist in Uganda. For example, if you go on a work trip upcountry, think about extending for one or two days so that after you’ve done your work, you can explore the area.
- Try local foods
- Ask about local customs
- Enjoy the scenery
- Learn a few words in a new language
These experiences will give you a different perspective on what you know about your own country. I’m sure you will be amazed at what you learn. I have lived in Uganda for ten years [read: permanent tourist in Uganda!] and honestly feel I have only scratched the surface of this country in terms of travel experiences and culture.
Tip no. 2. Add an interesting stopover on a family visit
Can you include a bit of exploration on a family trip? If you’re going upcountry to visit relatives, look out for places to stop along the way.
Some of my favourite places to stop include the Equator Monuments (near Masaka or Kasese), the Nakayima Tree in Mubende, Biharwe Eclipse Monument near Mbarara, the Entanda project near Mityana. Read about some of these places here in my “25 little-known places to visit” and be a tourist in Uganda like me 😉.
By including a short stopover on a trip you are already planning you save on fuel plus you get to break up what might be a tedious journey.
Tip no. 3. Use public transport
If you don’t have access to a car, that doesn’t need to hold you back from being a tourist in Uganda.
I have travelled by public transport (bus, matatu, tuk tuk and train) across East Africa: from Kampala to Nairobi, from Malindi and Watamu to Mombasa, from Kampala to Kigali, and as far west as Nyungwe Forest on Rwanda’s border with Burundi.
I’ve had very few hassles on public transport and simply LOVE staring out of the window as the countryside passes by!
Tip no. 4. Explore what’s on your doorstep
Having said all this, you don’t need to travel out of Kampala to be a tourist in Uganda.
Have you visited any of these?
- The Bahai’ Temple
- Ghadaffi Mosque in Old Kampala
- Afriart Gallery and Afriart on Seventh
- The Lubiri Palace in Mengo
- Martyrs Shrine at Namugongo
- Kabaka’s Landing Site in Mulungu by Munyonyo
Did you know these ‘everyday’ places are popular with tourists? Places that you drive past every day and take for granted are full of historic and cultural interest. When you visit one of them, it will give you further ideas about other places you can visit. Read my blog History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe with three new maps and a mobile app (all free by the way!)
What’s stopping you from being a tourist? (And don’t just say ‘money’)
I want to travel the length and breadth of Africa, so guess what I did? I found a job as a volunteer here in Uganda. I then used this as a base to travel around East Africa. I knew I would never earn the money to see all these places independently, so that’s why I created this blog, bartering my way around the region by exchanging stories for a place to stay.
If you really want to travel, you will find a way. Like anything in life, it’s about having the right attitude.
What is tourism really? What is the difference between international and domestic tourism in Uganda?
Tourism is about many things.
For international visitors to Uganda, most of them want to see the country’s incredible wildlife. That may not be your thing. You may prefer hiking a volcano or birdwatching or learning about the cultures of different tribes. You may just want to shake your kabina at a music festival! Ugandan tourists often prefer traveling in big groups.
Maybe you like swimming or boat rides. Do you want to learn to sail on Lake Victoria? Learn to ride a horse? Ride a CAMEL?
The possibilities are ENDLESS – you just need a bit of imagination.
I was tickled pink when fellow blogger Tumuhimbise Moses sent me a link to his latest blog “Breaking resolutions with a 10km walk.” Thanks for the mentions Moses – keep up the excellent writing!
If you like my travel suggestions sign up to my newsletter.
How do I travel? Read some of Diary of a Muzungu’s bus and train adventures across Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda!
By bus from Kampala to Nairobi
By tuk tuk, bus and SGR train between Malindi, Watamu, Mombasa and Nairobi
Billing and cooing around Lake Saka, Fort Portal
Pelicans and Great-crested Grebes – monitoring birds at Lake Saka on behalf of NatureUganda
Billing and cooing around Lake Saka – or “more birdwatching with Rog!”
The sight of four Sacred Ibis flying overhead is “a good sign” according to Roger, as we drive down the dusty back roads of Fort Portal towards Lake Saka. “I’m surprised to see them here,” he says. A minute later two Grey Crowned Cranes follow their route. The road to Mountains of the Moon University is so dusty a boda boda drive towards us with a face mask on.
Roger is anxious about what birdlife we’ll see or more correctly what we won’t see at Lake Saka. When he lived in Fort Portal he walked around this lake four times a week. He is concerned at what damage may been done in the year since his visit. Roger is prepared to be disappointed.
We park at the university and within minutes Roger’s face lights up as he hears the sound of a Red-winged Francolin. “I didn’t think they’d still be here!” He says. “There were three pairs here before. It’s the only place I’ve seen them in Uganda.”
At an elevation of 1,576 metres, we are around 400 metre higher than our forest edge home and this is reflected in the different bird species.
Our group of guides and casual birders sets to work following the transects designated for the NatureUganda bird population monitoring. “There’s no time for birdwatching, we have to focus on the transects,” orders Roger. “We can dilly dally later, on our walk back.”
Julia takes notes and Dillon (aged 8 1/2) watches the clock for us.
I spy a Red-eyed Dove on the overhead wire.
“Palm nut Vulture!” Calls Ambrose.
“A Windchat – a migrant.”
A Pink-backed Pelican sits on the surface of the lake. “This is fabulous!” Exclaims Rog.
“African Fish Eagle in the distance” calls Ambrose.
Roger points out the African Stonechat. What a pretty pair of birds they are. The female is quite different to the male and has a reddish pink breast.
Sightings come quickly. There’s no time to watch the birds, only to record them and march on. A small flock of Black and White Manikins sit on bleached ears of maize.
“Chubb’s Cisticola” someone shouts – and a pause to check its ID in Fanshawe’s “Birds of East Africa.”
The striking Baglefecht’s Weaver poses in Erthrynia.
“Ants!” Shouts Dianah. We step over a trail of red (biting) ants across our path.
We walk down a quiet marram path that slopes gently downhill. We’ve been walking for twenty minutes and only passed two of three other people. There are no cars, no boda bodas. All we can hear are the sounds of nature.
In the distance are the misty foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. A speck of white passes high in the sky, lit by the sun. “Little Egret,” calls Roger.
A Cinnamon-chested Bee eater perches on a branch above our heads.
“Ah BEAUTIFUL… !” Everyone coos at the same time.
“Charlotte – take a photo!”
“There’s no time for birdwatching” Julia shouts sarcastically, mimicking Roger, pushing us on.
There is the sound of running water and the air cools as we cross a small stream. Above it is a large messy Hammerkop nest in the crook of a tree. A man washes his boda boda in the flowing water.
“Isn’t there a law against that?” Muses Roger loudly as we file past the naughty boda driver.
We climb a long slope that opens high above the lake. “African Open-billed Stork!” Ambrose shouts. (I love those prehistoric-looking birds).
A lone cow bellows loudly.
We see another six African Open-billed Storks, then three more. Close by, eleven Bronze Manikins fly through the tall grass. In this lovely unspoiled piece of countryside there are few houses.
“We haven’t found a Grebe yet,” Roger. Despite some good bird sightings, his anxiety persists.
As we wander along the path, the team calls out bird names:
Two Northern Black Flycatchers… Short-winged Cisticola… Yellow-throated Longclaw… Eight Pink-backed Pelicans. “This is brilliant, there only used to be one!” Cries Rog.
I get a close-up shot of a Lavaillant’s Cuckoo in an avocado tree next to the path.
We hear the plaintive sound of cranes in the distance over the lake. A Variable Sunbird perches on the tip of a matooke leaf. “Pretty!” Says Dianah.
Eastern Grey Plantain eater… two Palm Swifts in flight…
“New section guys!” Shouts Julia every few minutes, as she records all the data.
Roger points to a ridge of the Rwenzori Mountains. “I’ve seen Angola Colobus up there,” he says.
I point to a Little Brown Bird. I know what it isn’t but I don’t know what it is. I have a feeling we haven’t counted it yet. “It’s a Tawny-flanked Prinia,” he corrects me, “a type of warbler.”
On Lake Kigere, we see four Yellow-billed ducks and – finally – two Great-crested Grebes!
This is the first in a series of blogs about the NatureUganda bird population monitoring of Kibale Conservation Area, which is carried out twice-yearly by a team from Sunbird Hill. The Kibale Conservation Area comprises Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Kibale National Park (Sebitoli, Ngogo Road Kanyanchu, Mainara, Kanyawara), Lake Saka and Lake Bikere and Toro Botanical Gardens in Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve.
Our friend Roger Skeen takes centre stage in many of my birding blogs. Here are a few favourites:
A birding safari here in my backyard. Traversing the swamp from Kampala en route to Port Bell
Operation Shoebill – Uganda’s Big Birding Day Mabamba Bay
A disgusting day out – counting vultures in Kampala’s abattoirs
Where shall we go birding next?
