Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022]
Where are you celebrating Christmas Day? And which is Kampala’s best hotel for New Year?
DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.
Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.
Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel
Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel
Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel
Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala
Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.
Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022
Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala
The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.
Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala
Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala
Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!
Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala
Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.
Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you 😉
Go Wild in UG! The Muzungu chats with Wanderlust readers
Wanderlust Travel Magazine: live webinar answering FAQs about Uganda safaris, gorilla vs. chimp tracking, where to see the Shoebill in Uganda, self-drive vs. guided tours…
I had to pinch myself when travel expert Mr Philip Briggs asked whether I’d have time to talk live to readers of the famous Wanderlust Travel Magazine. Well, YES! There’s nothing I like better than waxing lyrical about my favourite subject: travel to Uganda!
Wanderlust Travel Magazine “More than 300 of you tuned into our Uganda event to hear Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu, speak live from this incredible country alongside other expert speakers and the Uganda Tourism Board. We learned all about Uganda’s incredible wildlife and fascinating culture.
Featured image of leopard in tree. PHOTO by Peter Hogel. Courtesy MJ Safaris Uganda.
Scroll down to watch the – very lively! – recording “to explore the unspoiled and wildlife-filled landscapes of Uganda. During this virtual evening of travel, we will be meeting the experts who will bring to life the huge biodiversity, local culture and space for adventure in this incredible part of the world.”
Where was Charlotte talking from?
“I was talking live from Kyaninga Lodge a high-end lodge near Fort Portal and Kibale Forest in western Uganda (a good base for chimp tracking).”
Can you drive yourself around Uganda or is it easier to hire a driver?
“Self-drive holidays in Uganda are possible but not recommended if you haven’t done an African road trip before. We always recommend having a driver guide. They know every road – and pothole! They will tell you what time you need to leave your lodge for your next activity, maintain your vehicle and generally be a really good addition to your experience of Uganda. Ideally hire a trained guide with expertise in your particular interest e.g. safari, birding, culture, etc. If you do choose to self-drive, don’t drive at night. Very few roads are lit so driving can be dangerous. I frequently take bus trips between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. Buses are incredibly cheap but they don’t have the best safety reputation. (Some of them have seatbelts but few ever work). Large buses ply city routes. Between towns, you will need to catch a matatu minivan taxi, which are very cramped.”
Can you self-drive in Uganda’s National Parks?
“Yes it’s possible to drive yourself in Uganda’s National Parks but you must stick to the marked tracks. Failure to do so may result in a cash fine or even eviction from the park. If you travel independently, you will need to have a Uganda Wildlife Authority armed ranger escort, at your (small) cost. Choose the right one, and you will have an expert guide to your Uganda safari. Although the idea of doing your own game drive sounds exciting, local people know exactly where the different wildlife hunts and sleeps. (It’s amazing what you may drive past while looking in the other direction!)”
What budget do you recommend per day, excluding air fares, for a Ugandan safari?
“Options can vary wildly according to the standard of accommodation and the number of people in your group. You generally pay a little more for lodges and hotels inside a National Park. Uganda has a range of accommodation from homestays and campsites to mid-range hotels and luxury lodges with spas and butler service. Daily rate would usually include: 4×4 vehicle (often a minibus van) with English-speaking driver and fuel; accommodation and meals; some activities such as game drives and nature walks (the more expensive gorilla / chimp tracking permits are usually charged extra).
Generally speaking, allow a budget of $200 or more / day to cover all of the above. If opting to stay in high-end lodges, daily rates would start at $450 per person. [Prices estimated April 2022]. For best value, travel in a group of four or more.” Looking for a tour operator? Check out my Travel Directory.
How accessible and reliable is medical care for tourists in Uganda?
“The first thing to remember is to buy travel insurance before you travel to Uganda. It’s easy to access basic medical advice and clinics in Uganda but if you take regular medication, do bring a good supply with you. It can be difficult to access certain medicines outside Kampala, however, you will easily find malaria testing and treatment facilities, for example. Malaria prevention is always better than cure. Minimise health risks by taking antimalarials, sleeping under a mosquito net and alerting your guide or tour company if you are feeling unwell. Drink filtered or bottled water (few tourists complain of stomach upsets in Uganda).
For more serious health issues, you would need to get to a town or even Kampala. Medivac evacuation (by helicopter for example) is available but very expensive. Compared to many countries, Uganda has not been badly hit by COVID-19. Read Uganda travel advice I ignored – my advice on various health and safety issues based on my 10+ years living in Uganda.”
How does chimpanzee tracking differ from mountain gorilla tracking?
They’re big and they’re hairy – but other than that these two great apes are radically different. Mountain gorillas are huge but gentle vegetarians. Chimpanzees are nutters!
Mountain gorillas spend most of their day on the ground, sleeping and farting. Chimpanzees can cover a big range up in the trees. (Yes, ok, they also fart a lot!)
Gorilla tracking is amazing because of the rainforest territory and the climb through the mist to find them. Chimp tracking is hilarious – they are so like us. (Or are we like them?)
I love both primate tracking experiences. I can’t say one is better than the other but price is definitely a consideration. In 2022 in Uganda, it costs $700 for a gorilla tracking permit. By comparison, a chimp tracking permit is between $50 to $200, depending which National Park or Forest Reserve you track in. Read the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s conservation fees for tariff for 2022- 2024.
Where is the best place to see giraffe and elephants in Uganda?
“The best place to see (Rothschild’s) giraffe would definitely be Murchison Falls National Park. Smaller populations have been reintroduced to Lake Mburo and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve; you can also see giraffes (and cheetah and a lot more) in Kidepo, in Uganda’s remote north east. Elephant can be easily seen in the popular Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks.”
How easy is it to see the Shoebill bird in Uganda?
“I once saw three Shoebills on the Delta boat ride in Murchison Falls National Park. Their size makes them easy to spot but they are shy and very few in number. Make sure you have an expert guide. If you absolutely have to see the Shoebill – and time or budget are an issue – why not pass by Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe? In addition to the Shoebill, you can see indigenous species such as elephant, lion, white rhino, chimpanzee and serval cats. Another location that is an easy drive from Entebbe is Mabamba Bay. Although the Shoebill can be viewed in other parts of Uganda, the places listed here are Uganda’s most popular Shoebill viewing destinations.”
What is the one experience or one place in Uganda that people should experience?
“Murchison Falls National Park in northern Uganda is the country’s most popular National Park (yet for all that, there are few tourists compared to many of Africa’s tourist areas). The park is named after the dramatic falls where the River Nile narrows from 1/2 a kilometre wide to just seven metres wide and plunges 43 metres. It’s a fantastic sight, seen from below via boat or from above: at the Top of the Falls, you can feel the power of the water in the rocks beneath your feet. I write about it in Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron, Murchison Falls. Murchison is an excellent safari destination, whether for game drives, safari boat rides, birdwatching or chimp tracking in Budongo. The Shoebill is one of Murchison’s 400+ bird species.”
Watch the full recording of the Wanderlust reader event: go wild in Uganda
What did Wanderlust readers have to say about the Go Wild in Uganda webinar event?
Thanks all. Now looking at a trip.
Thanks very much. It’s been a great evening. Great words from great people. Thanks very much to Charlotte and your friends, good job.
Thank you for a wonderful evening. It reminds us of the great time we had in Uganda (and that was without seeing the gorillas as we felt we weren’t fit enough for the trek). It also made us want to go again.
Thank you for a fascinating insight into Uganda. I really enjoyed the event and would love to visit there!
Advice to would-be Ugandan travel writers – a competition!
Uganda’s Travel Writing Competition 2022 [now closed]
Writing has opened many doors for me.
Get writing between now and the end of July and you have a chance to win one of these prizes:
- 1 million Uganda shillings (always good)
- An all-expenses-paid trip to “somewhere in Uganda” (nice!)
- Mentoring (arguably the best prize of all, if you’re serious about a writing career)
The second annual Travel Writing Competition is the initiative of Irene Allen Namisango and the team at Uganda Uncovered. The muzungu will be one of the judges, alongside Julius Luwemba (journalist, writer and photographer) and Dr Jim Ayorekire (Senior Lecturer and Researcher, Makerere University).
Here are some of the things I have learned about being a travel writer.
How did I start writing Diary of a Muzungu? And why?
I started Diary of Muzungu in 2008 as I was preparing to quit my 9-to-5 job in London. This blog records the life-changing experience of saying goodbye to the corporate life to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Back then, Diary of a Muzungu was simply a personal diary (adjusting to power cuts, Luganda lessons and shopping in Namuwongo market!)
The discipline of daily writing allowed me to reflect on my radically new life. (You don’t have to publish everything of course.) Journaling – or old-fashioned scribbling in a diary – can be therapeutic as well as a chance to develop your own style. Why do I blog? 10 surprisingly for lessons from a self-confessed blogoholic. I look back on my early blogs and can see that regular blogging has improved my writing. My sentences are better structured. I have found my voice.
Writing was already a big part of my life before Uganda. I wrote proposals and reports for a living; the content could be dull, but it was excellent training. (When I felt creative, I would write for the staff newsletter). Fast forward and – hello world – I am a judge in a travel writing competition, a trainer and mentor.
Tips for being a successful travel writer
You have to put in the hours, consistently. Here is a behind-the-scenes view of a typical work trip Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
If you want to be a good travel writer, the writing is far more important than the travelling. Travel can be costly – and you are unlikely to get any trips funded until you have a strong portfolio – so don’t ignore what’s on your doorstep. Here are my top tips for Ugandans who want to travel.
What are the job opportunities for travel writers in Uganda?
As tourism develops in Uganda, companies are looking for talented writers to help them with their marketing. We need new ideas and perspectives but most of all, we need original, quality work. I get fed up with seeing my content posted on other people’s sites (without so much as a courtesy tag). Come on Uganda – try harder!
Unfortunately, Uganda’s copy and paste culture undermines quality output. It also weakens the destination brand if we’re all just rehashing the same content. When I say that we need original content, I mean that each story should be written from scratch. In addition, we need to look for new topics and alternative ways to structure our communications. Don’t just copy somebody else’s ideas. Do not start with “I got up in the morning and I had breakfast.” It’s boring. Find your voice. You might not get it right first time. Practice. Read.
A note for tourism businesses looking for travel content
Employers need to understand that quality writing is a resource-intensive task. It takes time to research a subject, check the facts, write the narrative, edit, review, edit again and proofread. A decent blog post or magazine article involves many revisions. (At some point, I will put an article to one side so that I can go back to it later with fresh eyes). Your travel content could be someone’s first impression of Uganda. It must read well and all the facts must be verified.
What is the theme of this year’s Travel Writing competition?
“My 100% recommendable destination in Uganda.”
Articles should be 800-1000 words about the writer’s recommended destination. According to Irene, the aim of the story is “to keep a reader engrossed and desire to visit that particular place.” Stories should be “anecdotes from personal travel experiences from road trips to camping experiences, weekend getaways to long safaris.”
At the June 21 launch at the Uganda Museum, Basil Ajer, the Director of Tourism at the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, urged “Please contestants make use of this [writing] opportunity… write and make the readers accept that Uganda is the Pearl of Africa.”
Daniel Irunga pledged total support of the initiative on behalf of the Uganda Tourism Board.
Richard Kawere, head of the Uganda Tourism Association, the industry’s apex body also endorsed the event. He has been very supportive of the initiative from its inception. “Content writing is one of the biggest gaps in the tourism industry in Uganda.”
Eric Ntalo, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre Public Relations Manager, said “It is important for Ugandans to be involved in promoting conservation and tourism. It is one sustainable way to benefit from all the endowments the country has.”
How to enter the Travel Writing Competition 2022
- The competition is open to Ugandans of 18–35 years.
- The closing date is 11:59 PM July 31, 2022.
- Submit your story as a PDF – with pictures.
- There are no fees to enter the competition.
- Articles should be between 800–1000 words.
- The organisers state that “Winners will be invited to take part in a 3-month training with the Uncovered Youth Writers Hub to further hone their writing skills. These trainings will be facilitated by award-winning travel writers and authors. Winning articles will be featured on our websites and social media platforms. In addition to the prizes, free trips and visibility, shortlisted travel writers stand a chance at employment and travel writing gigs with reputable travel agencies on the hunt for writers.”
One final word of writing advice from Diary of Muzungu
Start writing now. Don’t wait until the last minute. Start jotting some ideas down.
Multi-millionaire author Stephen King advises Write with the door closed, rewrite with the door open (meaning don’t worry about your ugly grammar or what anyone else thinks. Just dump those ideas on the page then come back to them later).
Good luck everyone! I look forward to reading your entries – and featuring a few of the winning travel stories on Diary of a Muzungu 🙂
The world’s BIGGEST rolex wins Guinness World Record!
“I made the world’s biggest rolex” – Raymond Kahuma is putting Uganda on the world map (in his words).
News does not get any more exciting than this!
Drumroll…
The biggest – world record-breaking – congratulations to Raymond Kahuma who has landed a Guinness World Record for Uganda by making the world’s biggest rolex! According to his certificate, the mammoth snack weighed in at a phenomenal 204.6 kg (or 451 pounds!)
Just how many eggs do you think were needed to make it?!
While others may strive to win medals at the Olympics or reward themselves with endless university degrees, Raymond has done something far more worthy: he has (in his words) “helped put Uganda on the world map” and boy is he entertaining us too!
Explore Uganda through your tastebuds!
For the uninitiated, a rolex is an omelette rolled in a chapati. (Rolled eggs, get it?) It’s a staple of students and party animals countrywide. (You can’t beat eating a fresh rolex at three in the morning on the way home from a nightclub, which we are now able to do again in Uganda after almost two years of bar closures!)
According to the rules set by Guinness World Records, the rolex would need to weigh at least 200 kg. With a single rolex weighing 100g, that equated to 200 rolex! However, that would be too easy: the final item had to be a scaled-up version of the actual food. (Until this record from Uganda, the world’s biggest rolex measured three metres in diameter and weighed 149 kg).
Kahuma’s first attempt at making a record-breaking rolex cost him $3000 and took a team of 15 people four weeks – to ultimately fail. On that first attempt, the chapati got burned before they had a chance to make the full rolex. Kahuma explains how he had given up on college and how making this humongous Rolex “had become my life’s work. Giving up was not an option.”
Watch Raymond Kahuma’s record-breaking feat “I made the world’s biggest rolex” made in Kampala.
The video is HILARIOUS (just forgive the occasional swearword…) Honestly, the world’s biggest rolex video is the best thing I have watched in a long time. I felt a little emotional by the end of it!
“Uganda’s Guinness World Record for the world’s biggest rolex is a testament to perseverance and dedication.”
Raymond Kahuma
Ingredients for a world record-breaking 200kg+ Ugandan rolex!
- 72 kg flour
- 90 kg vegetables
- 1200 eggs
- 40 kg water
- 40 kg cooking oil
- 14 hours and 36 seconds
- Four attempts
- 60 participants
Originally the go-to food for students, posh versions of Rolex now include chicken, bacon, cheese and a variety of ingredients. At Bujagali in Jinja, you can even order a sweet rolex filled with chocolate and fruit! Back on the streets – arguably still the best place to order your chapati – a rolex stall is one of the quickest and easiest way to set up a new business. You have to hand it to Ugandans for their entrepreneurial spirit!
The humble rolex is a staple on Diary of a Muzungu’s menu. 😋 It even has its own blog “The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness!”
Do you love eating rolex? Restaurant variety or roadside stall which is your favourite?
Uganda travel advice I ignored
Hunting for practical Uganda travel advice? Do as I say (not as I do)
We all make mistakes, here are some of mine. This is a list of some of the advice I was given – and ignored. No doubt this list will grow as quickly as the list of good travel advice does!
Note to mum: you don’t need to read this. Switch off the computer and go and make yourself a nice cup of tea…
“DON’T swim in Lake Victoria or you’ll catch Bilharzia” they warned
There are hundreds of lakes scattered across Uganda. The good news is you can swim in most of them.
Adventurous or reckless – who’s to judge? – I’ve swum in Lake Victoria and the Nile many times.
If you’re planning to go white water rafting, kayaking or canoeing in Jinja, don’t worry, the river is mostly fast flowing so there’s little chance that you will catch Bilharzia (although it’s not impossible). Bilharzia can be horrible.
Read the Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on How to avoid Bilharzia.
“DON’T swim in the River Nile” I was told
Where not to swim in the River Nile advises you on how to avoid other dangers … some of them four-legged!
“DON’T forget to take your anti-Malarials” said all my well-meaning friends
Malaria can be fatal. However, very few Ugandans or expats take anti-Malarials. Read some of the precautions we take in How to Avoid Malaria.
When I was a Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer, I was given a whole list of vaccinations (15 injections in total!) and a free supply of anti-Malarials, in the belief it was cheaper to medicate me than to repatriate me.
“DON’T use a boda boda!” Said oh so many people
Riding a boda boda (motorbike taxi) is all part of the Ugandan experience, but play it safe and minimise the risks. Here’s the Muzungu’s guide on How to ride a boda boda.
“DON’T forget your sunscreen,” said my aunt
What I have lost in expat friends leaving Uganda, I have gained in bucket loads of sunscreen.
When volunteer friends have left Uganda, they’ve left me an assortment of half bottles of cosmetics. I have the full range of sunscreen, factors 5 through to 50, total block, waterproof, for kids – the lot.
But I like having a few freckles and I don’t hang around outside in the heat of the day.
I only seem to remember sunscreen when I’m going on Safari! But maybe I should rethink that…
“DON’T date a Ugandan!” One of my girlfriends told me
Ugandan men are handsome and can be very charming. They know how to tell women what we want to hear.
I’ve had more marriage proposals in Uganda than in my whole life!
But ladies, proceed with caution. Here are my tips on How to date a Ugandan.
So what are your do’s and don’ts for living and travelling in Uganda?
Do share them here. I’d love to read from you!
A world class welcome at Entebbe Airport
Is it safe to travel to Uganda during COVID-19? Standard Operating Procedures at Entebbe International Airport
Yesterday I flew into Entebbe Airport from Moi International Airport (Mombasa), Kenya with Uganda Airlines. Uganda has pulled out all the stops to make a great first impression of the country. I was very impressed with the efficiency of the whole process!
This is a summary of my experience at around 11pm Sunday 4th July 2021. For the latest COVID-related travel updates from Entebbe Airport, read my Latest news for travellers to Uganda. I am endeavouring to update this blog regularly but it’s difficult to keep track of accurate info. If in doubt, you can always message me directly.
When you arrive at Entebbe Airport, you will be asked to show your passport, Yellow Fever certificate and negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate (an antigen test is not enough). Your temperature is taken automatically by a contactless Ipad-type screen. There were two lines of people for this and we moved very quickly. There were approximately 50 passengers in the arrivals hall when my Uganda Airlines flight from Mombasa landed. It took me around 15 minutes from entering the airport terminal building to exiting immigration. That is record timing!
My bags were already on the carousel by this time so I picked them immediately and then passed everything through the baggage scanner. Before exiting the airport building, three staff members asked where I had flown from and checked my passport. There were large graphics detailing the category one (highest risk) and category two (medium risk) countries and the restrictions that apply to each. Airport staff asked where I had traveled from (at the time of writing, Kenya is classed as a category two country) and whether I had been vaccinated. I showed proof of my two AstraZenecca (Covishield) vaccinations and they gave me a tiny slip of paper that I then handed to another two staff just outside the building. This slip of paper said I was ‘cleared to exit’, meaning I did not need any further PCR tests.
Do you need a PCR test to enter Uganda?
Another traveler arrived from Kenya with me. He said he had not been vaccinated and was told to go and have another PCR test. This he will have to pay $65 for. Entebbe Airport arrange the (complimentary) transport to the test site (a hotel in Entebbe). Travelers say the test process usually takes two to four hours before you can continue with your journey. You can wait for your results at the hotel (there is Wi-Fi, refreshments and charging points) or go and rest at one of the ‘designated hotels.’
NOTE: it has been proposed that everyone arriving at Entebbe Airport will need to a) have a negative PCR certificate plus B) have a PCR test on arrival, regardless of your vaccination status and where you are traveling from. You will need to check my Latest COVID-related news for Uganda blog to see whether that is going ahead or not.
The rules at Entebbe International Airport are clear and EVERY passenger and staff member followed the protocols (COVID-19 SOPs) throughout. Forget excuses, masks hanging off ears etc, everyone was doing the right thing.
600,000 Ugandans rely directly or indirectly on tourism so we’ve been absolutely devastated by the pandemic. Even this seasoned traveller was dreading flying with all the extra tests, masks and more so it was a huge relief to pass through Entebbe Airport so quickly.
Clearly the world is starved of positive news. Kudos to all the teams at Entebbe who are working to help #restarttourism
As you know, things change daily with travel restrictions and openings everywhere. If you need travel advice you are welcome to contact me directly.
July 28, 2021: I have passed through Entebbe International Airport a number of times in the past two months. You can read about the check-in / Departures experience here.
Grateful every day #LockdownDiaries
A year locked down with nature: Kibale Forest birds – and the occasional rat!
As we approach the one-year anniversary of Uganda’s lockdown, I take a moment to record the everyday sights and sounds of life in my wooden house on the edge of Kibale National Park. It’s easy to forget how different my life is to most people’s. Will I ever live in a modern apartment block again, I wonder?
One of my favourite forest noises is the lead-coloured flycatcher, whose two-tone call is my morning alarm. I don’t want to miss a note of the dawn chorus; in fact, it’s the first thing I miss when I travel. The rich birdsong is the most heartrendingly beautiful start to my day. Nowhere in Uganda can match Kibale Forest for birdsong!
There is little to keep us awake at night, bar the sounds of the forest. Being close to the Rwenzori Mountains, we are also treated to the occasional SHUDDER of an earth tremor. Believe me dear reader, the earth really does move in these parts!
Other night-time noises from the edge of Kibale Forest include Wood Owls, Verreau’s Eagle Owls and Black-shouldered Nightjars. The bark of the bushbuck, the YAHOO of baboons and the eerie calls of the Black and White Colobus Monkeys punctuate the night. This morning we were woken by chimpanzees (jealously guarding a fruiting fig tree); frogs can make a racket too! Sometimes we hear elephants, or at least we are alerted to their presence: the sound of ululating children and the loud banging of jerry cans is the usual signal that we have elephant visitors. They are mostly silent but for the rhythmic swish… swish… swish… as they push through three-metre high grass. When the elephants get too close to our neighbours’ crops, rangers sound warning shots into the air. (Once the elephants were so close to my house, I swear I felt the ground tremble). Once in a while, we hear the splintering of wood as elephants fell trees.
Occasionally, we hear the noise of a container lorry moving over the speed humps that stud the road that runs through Kibale Forest. (Thankfully, we don’t hear them often).
My mornings start with a pot of tea on my balcony (after a quick glance at the floor to see which moths the bat has been eating from its roost high in my thatch!)
Early morning sounds vary according to the season. There are birds galore! The high-pitched twittering of Sunbirds, the squawking of Great Blue Turacos and the whistle of African Grey Parrots are joined by gregarious Black and White Casqued Hornbills that bang their cumbersome-looking beaks against tree trunks as they wipe them clean. Kibale Forest’s birds enthrall me! Primates are infrequent visitors to the family compound but Red-tailed Monkeys are known to raid the fig tree just before dawn (before the dogs wake up!)
Geckos are welcome housemates (they love eating mosquitoes!) They nest in the thatch and I often find their perfectly round white eggs on my wooden floor. Occasionally the eggs splatter to reveal their runny yellow yolk.
A rustle in the thatch generally denotes a gecko so it’s a sound I usually ignore, until recently when something bigger than a gecko moved noisily above my head. The small hole at the apex of the thatch lets in a few inches of light; next to it was the squirming black body of a medium-sized snake, coiled along the rafters! I imagine it had been sunbathing on my roof. (The grass is ordered and we’ll be sealing that hole in the thatch very soon Ma!)
While it’s still cool, I explore the forest edge. “You do know elephants blocked our way last night, don’t you?” Julia tells me. “Well, I do now!”
My morning walk-cum-runs along the edge of Kibale National Park have kept me sane this past year. My series of #LockdownDiaries are inspired by the healing effects of nature. Every day is different, should you choose to notice it: I have learned that rare L’Hoest’s Monkeys do visit the forest edge occasionally; I know that ‘cuckoos follow the caterpillars’ meaning hear a cuckoo and you will notice the caterpillars; it also means peak butterfly season is approaching.
A few days ago I had to do a quick U-turn when I saw three chimpanzees along the path ahead of me. During lockdown, the paths became so overgrown and unused that I would run through ten spiders’ webs every morning. (I could dedicate a whole blog to the various spiders that I share my house with! But would it be as scary as this story about night-time invaders?)
I often return home with wet trainers: the morning dew and wading through the flooded ‘elephant potholes’ trail (churned up by seismic elephant footprints) destroyed half my footwear during lockdown.
Sometimes I disturb monkeys on my morning walks. Tut tut tut they warn me, as I march on, undeterred by them (or the tenacious safari ants that can grab on and bite me, even when I’m moving). Occasionally, I hear the startled run of a bushbuck. It’s rare to see this large antelope but we sometimes hear him. What a loud ugly bark he has!
Back in my house, it’s time for a cold shower. Water is pumped up from the local stream by the solar pump (assuming we have a few hours of sunhine).
Over at the pit latrine – refurbished with a shiny mabati tin roof after the thatch rotted and slowly slid off – live a pair of Blue-headed Agama Lizards. A quivering tail pokes out from underneath the mirror on the outside wall. The mirror wobbles as the lizards hear me approach. “I have seen you!” I snigger.
The back of the latrine door bears the muddy nest of a hornet. I used to be terrified of wasps but I’ve learnt they leave us alone; just allow them their flight path while they’re building their nest (and stuffing it full of live caterpillars for their larvae to feed on) and you will be perfect housemates. Wasps build their nests inside furniture (and occasionally on clothes). Paper wasps are very good parents; they will spend almost every living moment sitting on their nest and will not disturb us humans. We live in harmony.
My day proceeds with a few hours at my desk overlooking the forest. Trees in the family compound grow so quickly that we only have a small window through to the forest at the moment.
The ‘bombs’ from the tall Cordia tree near my house make us jump out of our skins! The small hard fruits smash onto the tin roof of the store cupboard (the family’s temporary kitchen during lockdown). The ‘bombing’ can make for fraught nerves…
On Sunday mornings, we hear drumming from the local church, a few hundred metres from us. It’s low-key and we like it (which is just as well since the same rhythm may rumble for two hours or more!)
Lunch in the village is a simple affair. Most days we eat ‘staff lunch’ of posho and beans. I love katogo of matooke and groundnuts too (now you may understand why I have started running again!)
Mid-afternoon, the house skink runs up and down the wooden posts holding the thatch above the balcony. We regularly eyeball each other. (I hope that damned cat doesn’t get him).
I collect insects – inside my mosquito net. Today I have found a long-horned beetle. Last week there was a praying mantis inside my net. One time I was lying in bed and a rat ran over my foot. Note to self: tuck the net in a bit better!
We do our best to rat-proof, mouse-proof and insect-proof our belongings. If we are not careful, stuff gets munched. Food scraps must quickly go in bins with lids; dry goods must be in sealed plastic containers. Soap and computer cables are other favourite foods of rodents. Clothes must be shaken before wearing: one day Julia’s mum put on a jumper. A skink jumped out of it, then another, then another!
My open-air shower doubles as a washing-up station. Showering, birdwatching and doing the dishes – this is multitasking ‘forest-style’.
My life here as blogger in residence at Sunbird Hill is ‘a happy accident’. I moved here – temporarily – three years ago. It’s been an incredible place to spend lockdown and I am grateful everyday.
It doesn’t mean I don’t miss Kampala (but let me not start on the list of places and people that I miss!)
We toast goodbye to the working day with the occasional sundowner. Uganda Waragi – with freshly roasted ground nuts – is the tipple of choice. It’s usually dark by 7 o’clock and we retire early. I surround myself with books and immerse myself in podcasts. I sleep early, eagerly anticipating the next dawn chorus!
If you enjoy the Muzungu’s dispatches from the forest, read my #LockdownDiaries series and A forest wakes up.
A forest wakes up
Birdwatching my way through lockdown in Kibale Forest
Lockdown has found me on the edge of Kibale Forest in western Uganda where I live in a thatched wooden house on stilts a few hundred metres from the elephant trench that marks the boundary of the National Park.
Dawn chorus on the edge of Kibale National Park is so hypnotic that I’m regularly awake by 6.21 every morning, eager not to miss the Lead-coloured Flycatcher’s soothing two-note call, my usual morning alarm.
By contrast, the past few awakenings have been rather jarring. They may be grand birds on the wing but, when they are calling from your roof, Hornbills are not always so welcome!
I spend the first hour of every day birdwatching and drinking tea on the balcony at the front of my house. Here on the Equator, it gets light around 7 o’clock throughout the year.
The black-and-white Casqued Hornbills are bouncing around the fig tree before dawn. One hop, two hop, a Hornbill with a black head and matching casque hops up and down the tree boosted by a big flap of its wings. The branch sags low under its weight. The bird picks a small green fig the size of a Malteser with its cumbersome-looking beak. It throws back its almighty casqued head to swallow it. (It looks like a lot of effort for a tiny fruit). These sometimes-clumsy birds are dainty eaters. Who would have guessed?
A pair of Hornbills are joined by a third. As I watch, bird number one feeds the third one. Could this giant be their baby? They wipe their beaks left and right against the lichen-covered trunk. A bird bangs its hollow casque on a branch; the unusual noise fills the air.
There’s a flash of blue! The first of the Great Blue Turacos glides in.
Another Hornbill glides down onto a branch on the edge of Kibale Forest 500 metres from where I’m sitting. I trace its distinct silhouette against the dark green background.
It seems impossible that my movement might scare these noisy birds, but they panic easily. Seven Hornbills fly noisily into the forest. Smaller birds scatter in their wake.
The light is too poor for the camera so I just sit and watch. A pair of Ross’s Turacos hop and creep up the tree trunks. I contrast the dainty hops of the Ross’s with the clumsy antics of the Great Blue Turacos bouncing and crashing through the branches.
The sound of heavy wing beats signals the arrival of another Hornbill; a second loud wing beat follows close behind. They settle in the fig tree. Single caws suggest happiness and contentment.
Small birds swoop in twos and threes. They are non-descript in the early morning light. As the minutes pass, their blue sheen confirms they are purple-headed starlings.
Violet-backed Starlings now number more than 20. In bright sunshine, the plumage of these same birds appears bright pink. I love the seasonal twittering of flocks of starlings.
The caws have subdued. Six Hornbills sit silently except for the occasional beat of a wing as they move through the branches, scouring the tree for figs. The slender branches of this inconspicuous tree are stronger than they look.
From the village a few kilometres away, I hear the repetitive cawing and screeching of more Hornbills. As I watch the tree over the days and weeks that the figs are ripe, I notice a pattern: the Hornbills call loudly from the village before one, two, three birds fly towards the forest. They pause here at Sunbird Hill for a few minutes before resuming their flight to the forest where they pass the day. Wave after wave of twos and threes pass overhead every morning and evening.
By contrast, Great Blue Turacos can – believe it not – be far quieter.
I recall a morning when I heard leaves dropping from the canopy of another fig tree by my house. I looked up, amazed to see 12 GBTs gobbling figs. When the fruits are ripe, turacos glide in stealthily; the only thing you might hear is the whirr of wings, not a single call. While they feed, the only sounds are leaves and figs dropping to the ground. Disturb them and the mass evacuation will be panicked and noisy! Their feeding habits are in marked contrast to their otherwise gregarious behaviour.
I once spotted both Meyer’s and African Grey Parrots feeding in this same tree. “It’s very rare to see these two parrot species together” said our friend Ronald, a ranger and tourism warden with the Uganda Wildlife Authority.
A Hornbill heaves into flight. It flies head-first in my direction, veering to the right as it passes within ten feet of me.
One, two, four Hornbills depart for the warmth of the sunlit trees on the forest edge. There is a moment of quiet.
With little noise and no drama, the Great Blue Turaco population of the fig tree now numbers eight or more. The diversity of large fruit-eating birds is a sign of the forest’s abundance.
A flash of grey feathers catches my eye as I am sitting at the laptop. Seconds later, this striking Lizard Buzzard (plus wriggling lunch) lands in the tree a few metres from my desk. The remains of a long tail suggest it was eating a snake. (It was intriguing to note the reptile’s tail was still flexing, five minutes into the lunch session!)
Mid-afternoon the birdsong is almost deafening. (Who can work with so much distraction?) I am drawn onto the balcony to just sit amid the music. Two species of starlings entertain me. The African Blue Flycatcher and Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher weave colourful patterns in the lower branches of the fig trees. After a short absence, the Black-and-white (Vanga) Shrike flycatchers are back. A flash of red signals the head feathers of a Yellow-spotted Barbet. Hairy-breasted and Double-toothed Barbets are occasional afternoon visitors. Last year, this same fig tree was full of Barbets for several weeks; this year Hornbills, Turacos and Starlings steal the show.
As dusk approaches, a primate face peers through the bright green foliage of a medium-sized tree. It’s a dark-haired monkey with a white snub nose and white cheeks. It leans forward to grab young shoots and reclines to reveal a white belly. It’s one of many monkey visitors to the ripe fig tree. Each species has their timeslot; the Red-tailed Nkima Monkey appears after birds have had their fill.
I wrote this episode of my #LockdownDiaries for Alan Davies and Ruth Davies who are best known for identifying a record-breaking 4,341 bird species on their gruelling one-year world tour. You can read the original story on their website: A View From Uganda – A Forest Wakes Up – Kibale National Park. Alan and Ruth are regular birdwatching visitors to Uganda and we hope to see them here at Sunbird Hill one day!
Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo goes virtual! Register now
Uganda Tourism Board launches POATE 2021- Uganda’s first ever virtual tourism expo
Article republished with kind permission of author Kojo Bentum Williams of Voyages Afriq. March 11th 2021.
Register for the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo 2021 and download the event app
The Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) has launched the 6th Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE 2021), which for the first time-ever, will be held virtually.
The 3-day event is scheduled to take place on 27th – 29th April 2021 under the theme “Restarting Tourism for Regional Economic Development.”
Speaking at the launch event on March 10th, CEO of UTB, Lilly Ajarova said, “Well aware that different players in the sector were affected variously, the key focus of POATE 2021 will be on four major sub-topics: Recovery, Rebuilding, Reconnecting and Rebooting the sector.”
CEO of UTB, Lilly Ajarova photographed with Hon. Godfrey Ssuubi Kiwanda, Uganda’s State Minister for Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities
“In light of the current climate in which there are multiple travel restrictions, especially in some of our key markets, as well as the need to ensure safety for all participants, POATE 2021 will exclusively be virtual.
“We have built a specialised virtual meeting platform that shall facilitate one-on-one meetings, virtual speed networking sessions as well as live conference sessions for domestic, regional and international tourism players.”
Participants for POATE 2021, according to the CEO, will be vetted through a set of criteria that has been developed by the national organising committee to ensure they are of the right calibre to showcase Destination Uganda’s offering.
“In line with UTB’s recovery marketing strategy, hosted buyers and exhibitors will be sourced from the existing core and emerging source markets within the East African Region (Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda), rest of Africa (Egypt, Nigeria, South Africa) and the international markets (North America, UK and Ireland, Germany speaking countries, Japan, Gulf states and China and the new markets of France, Belgium and Netherlands.”
“Participating hosted buyers will be sourced through the newly procured Market Destination Representative firms (MDRs) following a ratio of 80:20, in favour of core markets,” she revealed.
Ms. Lilly added that they hope to build on the successes of POATE 2020 where Uganda registered a 138% growth in exhibitors (from 63 exhibitors in 2018 to 150 exhibitors in 2020) and leveraging the power of the internet. This year we expect to attract more than 200 exhibitors.
POATE is a tourism exposition organised annually by the Uganda Tourism Board (UTB). It brings together all of Uganda’s tourism stakeholders for the greater purpose of individually showcasing their potential to the world on one hand, and jointly, to raise the profile of Uganda as a competitive and attractive destination for domestic, regional and international tourists.
The Muzungu adds: since the advent of the pandemic, Uganda has had a number of initiatives to promote domestic tourism. Read all about Lilly Ajarova’s climb of Margherita Peak in the Rwenzoris.
Do you want to register for the 2021 Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
Click here to register for POATE2021. It’s free.
After you have completed Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo registration, you will be sent a link to download the event app (which is called Whova). Install the app, click on find my event and type Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (or POATE). The app is an excellent resource and easy-to-use – but you won’t be able to use it until you have registered. Once you have access to the app, you can build your profile and start connecting with people. Look for attendees (bottom of the screen) and connect with me Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu. See you online!
Are you ready for the virtual Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
“I have liked you”
Gonja and roasted goat: bus travel from Kampala to Fort Portal
The bus from Kampala to Fort Portal leaves at 7 o’clock in the morning and I am told to be there an hour beforehand. I catch a boda boda across the city as the early morning traffic gathers. It’s refreshing to be driving through the cool early morning air with my bag packed for five days on the edge of Kibale Forest – away from the laptop.
Our boda heads downtown – avoiding a certain saloooon – where we are surrounded by thousands of people all jostling to get to work, to sell their wares, gearing up for the day ahead.
As we turn a corner, a tall man in bright green overalls shouts “Link? Link?”
I wasn’t sure where to find the Link bus park but there’s no mistaking the man in green who runs up the street to a yard filled with buses of the same bright green. The word LINK is written in large yellow letters.
I don’t have change (balance) so the man in green offers to take my money and buy a ticket for me and come back with the change for my boda boda. No thank you. He seems legitimate enough but I’m wary. (Once-upon-a-boyfriend-ago, a similar move in Cairo by a very helpful stranger separated us from all our money – on the first day of our holiday). Alert for similar tricks, I walk to a shop opposite the Link bus station, buy two bottles of water and have the change I need to pay for my boda boda and my bus ticket without using an intermediary.
On board I squash myself in near the back of the bus. I choose to sit near a lady and her baby. She beams at me as I sit down.
“But I need some water,” she says very loudly (to me?)
I’m not sure what I’m supposed to make of this so I choose to ignore her.
Before the bus departs for Fort Portal, a man walks up and down the aisle selling cakes. A small round cake is 500 Uganda shillings; a big square slab of cake is 1000 shillings. I opt for the smaller cake to accompany my breakfast apple.
The bus leaves on time.
I check WhatsApp while we are still in town. The guy next to me seems very interested in everything on my phone screen. “Ooo Facebook!” He exclaims. I try and ignore him and shield my screen from his interested eyes. His gaze keeps coming back to my phone. I glare at him. Out of the corner of my eye I see his ‘Nokia’ phone. I guess he is envious of my Smartphone. I feel bad for thinking mean thoughts.
We are seated one row in front of the back row. In my rush to get a seat I have (again) forgotten how I will regret sitting over the back wheel of the bus.
As the bus hits the open road to Fort Portal, phone networks go off and everyone settles down for a snooze. There’s a blast of cold wet air. Every time we slide the window shut, the juddering and shaking of the vehicle reopens it. The lady pulls the blanket over her child’s head. I try and keep myself warm by putting my bag on my lap.
The lady is trying to keep the window closed to keep her baby warm. The man sitting between us has fallen asleep. “Typical husband,” I think. “He’s asleep while she’s worrying about the baby.” I’m worried the baby is as cold as I am, so I fold a small piece of paper and pass it to her, thinking she may be able to use it to wedge the window shut. “Do you want me to put it out of the window?” She motions.
No!
I doze and am woken by the ringing of a phone. This lady does love to chat. I hear her cough and I get up to retrieve the second bottle of water from my bag. If she’s breast-feeding, she must need water.
We are halfway to Mubende before I buy my ticket. The ticket seller slowly works down the aisle, writing out each ticket by hand. The guy next to me peers into the pocket of my bag. I try and retrieve my money without showing him exactly how much I am carrying. He’s craning his neck to have a good look. The guy selling tickets doesn’t have enough change so he writes 5,000 UGX and his signature on the back of the ticket to denote that he has to pay me my balance.
At Mubende, plastic bowls full of roasted gonja and cardboard boxes of water and sodas are pushed up to the bus window. Someone waves roasted meat at us through the gap. I opt for a chapati. “Roasted or dry?” The young man asks me helpfully. I understand enough of the lady’s Luganda to know that she is complaining about the prices. She sends the young man to the shop with her order for orange squash and goat.
“I have liked you,” she said. “You can give me your number so I can call you.”
She tells me that she is going to Kasese (the stop after Fort Portal) to visit her parents for a few days and that she will go back to Kampala to see her husband.
“I thought this one was your husband?” I ask.
“No. This one I just met him on the bus.”
The young man jumps back on the bus brandishing wooden skewers of glistening roasted goat. He offers me one. It’s kind of him but I’m not in the mood for roasted goat. (I also recall the advice not to accept food or drink offered by strangers on public transport). This pair seem kind enough though.
He removes the flimsy bag (polythene paper in Uglish) from around the meat and screws into a small ball. He passes it to the woman who knows exactly what he wants her to do with it: she forces it out of the window.
He sits next to me, tearing at the meat with his teeth. His teeth hit a bone which he spits at his feet. A small heap of goat bones accumulate on the floor between us. The smell of roasted meat fills the air.
The chat chat chat starts again. I like this couple. She and her baby remind me of my niece and her baby. She is loud but friendly. He reminds me of someone from the village. He appears uneducated but innocent.
More passengers squeeze onto the bus. A lady passenger places her big bag on the aisle and sits on it and we’re off again. I am still standing up when the driver slams on the brakes. The guy next to me grimaces; I hang onto the side of the seat. There’s never a dull moment on the bus to Fort Portal.
On the other side of the aisle is a Muslim lady wearing a bright yellow headscarf and pink lipstick. She wears a bold kitenge print dress and an eyeful of cleavage.
I pull out a large tourist map of Kampala, fully expecting the young man to ogle at it and start asking questions. I’m rather pleased with my new map: KCCA have launched a tourism map of the city and I’m interested to see which places feature on it.
Nothing! The young man doesn’t even glimpse over. I read the map, unfold it, turn it over, fold again. I’m amazed – the guy doesn’t register interest even once! Is tourism just ‘a white people thing’ I ask myself?
I ask myself: I wonder if he can read? Or perhaps it’s only money and phones that make him tick?
The ticket inspector returns to check our tickets and I politely remind “sebo (sir)” whether he has my balance yet. He doesn’t seem to hear me.
“*Gwe!” Yells the young man, trying to back me up.
*It’s a little rude considering “Gwe” is old enough to be the young boy’s father!
Road travel from Kampala to Fort Portal via Mubende – tips for travelers
- There’s a universal price of 300 ugx for a short call whether at Kampala Link bus station, en route at Mubende or at the bus station in Fort Portal.
- For the best HOT gonja and chicken, buy directly from the women who are grilling (on the way back from the toilet!)
- If you take the afternoon bus from Fort Portal, you may be lucky enough to see the sun set over Lake Wamala. What a wonderful, unexpected sight that was.
- Link have made a lot of investment over the past few years: new buses, redesigned depots and generally helpful staff. The CCTV security system at the Kampala depot is another positive development too.
- Buying bus tickets is a lot easier and more secure since Link introduced a new digital ticketing solution with the KaCyber app. It’s great because it promotes social distancing (avoid the scrum at the booking office!) Book your ticket in advance and pay using mobile money or PayPal. The KaCyber Go App is free to download but not available on all Link bus routes yet. The app is particularly useful now since it is a ‘contactless’ solution (no need to touch money or paper tickets so no need to sanitise your hands!)
- I wrote this story before COVID-19 disorganised us.
- Diary of a Muzungu readers know I regularly take the bus from Kampala to Fort Portal and in October 2020 I took my first bus journey of the pandemic. All travellers have to wear facemasks and everyone’s hands are sprayed with disinfectant. I sat between one empty seat and the aisle. For social distancing purposes, the pattern of vacant seats was repeated throughout the bus.
Do you travel by bus? What are your travel tips? If you enjoy my bus journey stories, I have plenty more 😎
The euphoric Rwenzoris!
What heights will you reach in 2021? Last year Lilly Ajarova pushed herself to summit Margherita, the Rwenzoris’ highest peak. She shares her inspiring story here.
Reaching the peak Margherita gives you a feel of being on top of the world, everything feels below you, it’s euphoric.
Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board
In December 2020, a team of climbers embarked on an ascent of Margherita Peak, the highest point in the Rwenzori Mountains at 5,109 metres (16,762 ft). The group took a nine-day fact-finding hike to Margherita Peak with Rwenzori Trekking Services in partnership with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Uganda. You can read more about the Take on the Pearl domestic tourism campaign in Uganda in new drive to market Mt Rwenzori by Titus Kakembo. Oh how I wish I had been with them!
Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.
Lilly Ajarova
Below, Lilly shares her personal account of climbing the Rwenzoris.
When 2020 started, we all had plans, but then the unexpected happened and for most, those plans were no more.
But in all this I had one plan that I didn’t give up on: I hoped and believed I would achieve it.
My plan was to hike Mount Rwenzori in 2020. It’s not easy to explain why this was important for me but most importantly it was about pushing myself to the limits, challenging myself to do something that I would look back and say “this was worth it.”
We kept planning for the hike and postponing it until we finally settled on a date. In December, I and a group of passionate hikers started the journey.
It wasn’t easy but there was a determination by everyone that kept us going. Each time I looked at the faces of other hikers, beyond the sweat I could see a story, a story so personal that I believe each will tell theirs. We were all out there – each with a story on why they were doing this, but we all had one goal: to reach the highest peak of the Rwenzoris – Margherita!
I have challenged myself to many things over the years but this one meant a lot more. We were in the Rwenzori mountains at a time when the tourism industry has been hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. In a way we were doing this hike to bring back hope to the tourism sector, to inspire others to also take upon such challenges.
There is this unexplainable feeling you get when you reach the highest peak: it’s a moment of triumph, just that this is a different kind of triumph.
You look back at the number of days it has taken you to get here, you remember the emotional and physical strain. You’re tired but not tired. For a moment you stay silent and let it all sink in because you still can’t believe that you managed to do this. Even with all the fatigue you still gather the strength to smile for a photo moment because some memories can’t just be described by words. And then silently you just say “I did it, we did it.”
I say “We did it” because no-one can claim this achievement alone; it’s a team effort. A lot of people sacrificed and put their time in to make sure this was a success, and I am so grateful to all that made this possible.
As we come close to what has been a year full of challenges and uncertainties, my hope is that as long as we wake up each day – alive – let’s challenge ourselves to do something great. It doesn’t have to be hiking Rwenzori but let it be something that puts your spirit and determination to the test.
Let it be something that when you look back, the feeling is satisfying for you.
That’s the experience hiking Rwenzori has given me. I now – more than ever – understand what one can achieve with courage and determination.
I wish that as we start 2021, we all have something we shall challenge ourselves to. I hope that we don’t stop dreaming and having big goals. Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.
The day I came back from the hike, one of my sons asked me “So, what next now that you have reached the highest peak of Rwenzori?”
I really didn’t have an answer, but I believe that as long as we are still alive there are other highest peaks in life that we should always challenge ourselves to reach.
Wishing you all a Happy New Year and may 2021 be the year which you climb to as many highest peaks in life as possible.
Lilly Ajarova, Uganda Tourism Board #VisitUganda #TakeOnThePearl #TulambuleUganda
About the Rwenzori Mountains
The 996 km2 Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, a Ramsar site (for its “wetlands of international importance”) and an Important Bird Area. And you haven’t visited yet?
Uganda’s RMNP is located in the 120km-long and 65km-wide Rwenzori mountain range that forms the border boundary of western Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is the highest mountain range in Africa. Margherita on Mount Stanley in the Rwenzoris is Africa’s third highest peak, after the volcanic peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m).
More than 70 mammal and 217 bird species have been recorded in the Rwenzoris. The best place to see these is in the montane forests at lower altitudes. Famous stand-out species you might see are the vibrant Rwenzori Turaco and an assortment of colourful chameleons.
Rwenzori mammals include the eastern chimpanzee, l’Hoest’s monkey, blue monkey, golden cat, African forest elephant, (the disturbingly loud nocturnal) southern tree hyrax, yellow-backed duiker and the endangered black-fronted duiker. Did you know that 19 of the Rwenzori’s bird species are Albertine Rift endemics (meaning they are only found in this corner the world)?
Have you seen Africa’s botanical big game?
Beyond the boggy moorlands, hikers cross valleys and waterfalls, rivers and lakes as they pass through evergreen forest, bamboo forest, colourful heather, and Afro-alpine zones. It is this unusual diversity of vegetation – much of it unique to the Rwenzoris – that makes the environment so memorable. The giant lobelia and groundsels at higher elevations have earned it the name “Africa’s botanical big game.” For most hikers, the fabulous scenery of the foothills is more than enough to stretch the limbs and inspire the soul. Hiking to one of the peaks is only for the fit and the well-prepared but determination is rewarded with spectacular views from seasonally snow-capped peaks and glaciers.
Lilly adds “Mt. Rwenzori is the third highest mountain in Africa, it is a mountain like no other. It presents a combination of a stimulating terrain, the rarest of vegetations, sights and sounds of magnificent waterfalls and the bluest of lakes, all climaxing in breath-taking glaciers and snow-capped peaks. Rwenzori Mountains National Park presents tourists with a more fulfilling and yet, crowd-free hiking experience that you will not find on many mountains across the world.”
Have you visited the Rwenzoris? Or do you plan to hike Margherita or Weissmann’s Peak?
Feel free to ask me questions here or visit my Travel Directory for recommended tour operators who can organise your hike. Oh yes, and take me with you 😉
Uganda slashes permit & park fees for all visitors
Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) announces long list of exciting discounts across the country!
If you’ve ever wanted to track the mountain gorillas, go on safari in Uganda’s National Parks and Wildlife Reserves, track chimpanzees or go birdwatching in Uganda’s Protected Areas, now is the time! Make the most of reduced fees until 30th June 2021. (In March 2021, UWA extended the discounts to the new June date).
It’s with great excitement that we can share a long list of discounts and incentives for visiting Uganda’s key wildlife attractions. Whether you are a Ugandan, an expat or planning to fly into Entebbe International Airport, travel between now and the end of June 2021. These substantial discounts make this gorgeous country even more attractive! (Pair these with discounts announced in July 2020 and you will be spoiled for choice!)
Reduction on mountain gorilla and chimpanzee tracking permit fees in Uganda for all visitors
Essentially, everyone is entitled to discounts, whether Ugandans, international tourists, expatriates living in Uganda or East African residents. Check out the tables I’ve created below.
NOTE: Uganda Wildlife Authority announced some discounts in July 2020 as well. I have tried to list them all in this blog as well (but the combinations and options do get a little confusing!)
Discounted prices for gorilla tracking and chimp tracking in Uganda from 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021
| GORILLA tracking permits – Uganda | *Now* | Was… | Saving |
|---|---|---|---|
| East African Community citizen (Ugandan, Rwandan, Kenyan, Tanzanian, South Sudanese) | UGX 150,000 | UGX 250,000 | UGX 100,000 |
| Foreign resident (expat) | USD 300 | USD 600 | USD 300 |
| Foreign non-resident (international tourist) | USD 400 | USD 700 | USD 300 |
Has this got you excited about tracking the mountain gorillas? Read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas.
| CHIMPANZEE tracking permits – Uganda | *Now* | Was… | Saving you |
|---|---|---|---|
| East African Community citizen | UGX 100,000 | UGX 150,000 | UGX 50,000 |
| Foreign resident (expat) | USD 100 | USD 150 | USD 50 |
| Foreign non-resident (international tourist) | USD 150 | USD 200 | USD 50 |
Chimpanzee tracking is a rather different experience – livelier, more energetic – and frequently very noisy! Read a wonderful account of chimp tracking here. I love on the edge of Kibale Forest so I have tons of stories and tips to share as well 😉
50% discount off park entrance fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021
UWA’s discounts apply to most National Parks and some Wildlife Reserves. The ones in the 50% promotion are: Lake Mburo, Queen Elizabeth, Kidepo Valley, Murchison Falls and Semliki National Parks; Toro-Semuliki, Katonga, Pian Upe and Kabwoya Wildlife Reserves.
There are three pricing categories: A, B and C. A is the most expensive (with the best facilities and most visited).
Here is the full – and pre-discounted – Uganda Wildlife Authority tariff of July 2020 to June 2022.
Pay for two days park entry and get one day free! Until June 2021
Note that UWA has another offer running currently too: pay for two days park entry and get one day free. This applies to all National Parks and Wildlife Reserves. The ‘3 for 2’ offer lasts until the end of June 2021.
It’s interesting to note that Uganda Wildlife Authority is promoting Wildlife Reserves. Plans are underway to upgrade Toro-Semliki, Katonga and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserves to National Park status in the very near future.
Visiting a National Park? Check out Diary of a Muzungu’ guide to Uganda’s National Parks.
50% discount off birding fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021
Yes! Did you know Uganda has over 1,000 bird species? (Contrast that with the U.K.’s 600 or so species and you get an idea of how special Uganda is. The countries are a similar size). Birding (or birdwatching) is one of the muzungu’s favourite activities.
50% discount off nature walk fees 1st December 2020 to end of March 2021
This applies to nature walks in Murchison Falls, Kidepo Valley, Queen Elizabeth, Lake Mburo National Parks and Kapkwai Exploration Centre in Mount Elgon National Park.
East Africans now pay 10,000 ugx.
Expats (foreign residents) and international tourists (foreign non-residents) now pay $15 (normally $30).
Do you want to climb Mount Elgon?
This is a really fantastic hike! Between now and the end of June 2022, groups of twenty people can get a 20% discount on the usual fees.
Read all about my four-day trip to Wagagai Peak in a “A girl called Kevin – climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda.”
How to track the gorillas and chimps – safely – during COVID
My plea: travel safely, wear a mask, wash your hands and sanitise frequently. If you’re planning to see the primates, follow the instructions to the letter. Mountain gorillas and chimpanzees are at high risk of catching COVID-19 from us and extra precautions have been put in place to ensure the safety of our closest relatives. Remember we are approximately 98% the same DNA and a chimp or gorilla can catch a human cold. Do not do anything that might compromise their health.
Uganda Wildlife Authority’s list of incentives will come as a big blow to neighbouring Rwanda who had dropped their gorilla tracking permits from a high $1500 down to $500, undercutting the stated prices in Uganda. However, everyone in Uganda is delighted that we can start marketing again! This is a great boost for the Ugandan tourism industry.
Visit the Uganda Wildlife Authority website for confirmation of the tourism incentive promotions.
Do you have any questions? If you’re ready to plan a trip, visit my Travel Directory. I work with a number of tour operators who can book gorilla and chimp permits, arrange your accommodation and guide you on safari.
Want a tried and tested recommendation? Feel free to drop a comment below or contact me directly.
Now let’s go enjoy Uganda’s wild areas!
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