Oranges and Ebola – a night crossing at the Uganda Rwanda border
Oranges and Ebola – a night crossing at the Uganda Rwanda border
Tonight we’re listening to rumba. It’s a pleasant change from the constant hawking and violent spitting of last week’s driver. Packing my earplugs in the hold – far away from me – was a very bad idea.
Kampala traffic is intense. It takes us half an hour to exit Namirembe Road where we alight, and two hours before we are on the main road out of the city. The driver is clearly stressed and puts his foot down at every opportunity, beeping loudly for other vehicles to get out of his way.
The VIP night bus looks brand-new. The seats are very comfy and the seatbelt works. Regular readers may recall my frequent cross-border trips. “No hurry in Africa” is a favourite.
On the small TV monitor next to the driver, Bukedde bursts into life. My heart sinks. This popular show is the bane of my life (and I don’t even have a telly). In each episode, a foreign film plays, with subtitles displayed underneath. Over this is a commentary in Luganda. Ugandans LOVE this show and, at a certain time of day, far and wide across the country, Bukedde blasts out from shopfronts, bars – and buses. It’s always played very loud. It does my head in so it’s the last thing I want to hear when I plan to sleep for a few hours en route to Kigali. Today’s Bukedde is a Chinese movie, played on a Chinese screen in a Chinese bus!
With the continued punishing sounds of spitting emanating from the driver’s mouth, I’m amazed that he is allowing the passengers to break for five minutes.
“Short call,” he growls, as we pull into a petrol station near Mbarara.
The muzungu is first to jump off the bus and head for the women’s toilets. As I exit the toilets, I hear the word muzungu and murmurs in Luganda. My crime? I can only guess that in my rush to have a short call, I have forgotten to pick up a jerry can and sluice the toilet behind me, not that there is any trace that I have even been in there. Still, I allow the ladies their moment of disapproval. (The funny thing is, wouldn’t you take the time to explain the error if it really mattered?)
Back on the bus, tiredness gets the better of me. I wake up at the border.
Crossing between Uganda and Rwanda is a lot easier now we have a computerised immigration system. Gone are the days when groups of men would clutch handfuls of biros to sell to help us fill out immigration forms. On a good day, it now only takes ten minutes to exit one country and ten minutes to enter another.
No man’s land – the border crossing at Katuna (Uganda) and Gatuna (Rwanda)
Regardless of how quickly I disembark at the border crossings, I always find myself at the end of the line. I put that down to my misplaced British sense of fairness (as a nation, we are obsessed with queuing) that allows people to push past me. There’s little point in complaining.
The woman at Uganda immigration gives me a dirty look and throws my passport back at me with contempt. Why? I’ll never know.
I walk through the mist that rises from the river; the natural feature makes the perfect border delineation but No Man’s land is a desolate place at four in the morning. I feel safe however. I’ve walked across here many times.
Six men approach me, wanting to exchange currency. They’re harmless, but annoying nonetheless. They see white skin and swarm. I dodge them as best I can but one of them is insistent (or bored). He thinks it’s funny to jump out at me.
“Fuck off!” I shout (for only the third time in Uganda). He doesn’t care. In fact, he laughs. I’m usually nice – but I have my limits.
A few paces further through the gloom, I pass the barrier that marks Rwanda. Without warning, out of the surrounding darkness a skinny man shines a torch straight into my eyes. “Ebola” he says. (Is that supposed to reassure me?)
Thermoflash Ebola testing Rwanda Uganda border
A few paces further on, the Rwandan immigration officials sit laughing in their office. It cheers me up, a lovely antidote to the negative attitude I’ve received in Uganda a few minutes before.
Customs order our bus to be emptied and searched. I smell fresh oranges.
I recall my first road trip to Rwanda a few years ago and how the bus was emptied out for a search. Are they looking for bombs or weapons? I had asked myself. I was gobsmacked when border staff wanted to confiscate a cavera carrier bag! I know the routine now (and you can expect the same routine when you enter Tanzania after June 1 2019).
Hauling a sack of (green) oranges is a two-man job. One of the sacks splits and oranges roll in every direction. Immigration formalities behind us, the passengers stand around watching. There is nothing for us to do but talk football, of course
The bus conductor comes over to say hello and asks where I’m from. As soon as I say I’m British, he excitedly chats Premier League. “We Africans love England because you have given a chance for Africans to play.” “As for the World Cup…” he hesitates, looks me directly in the eye and says “… you let us down.”
Each passenger gets on the bus clasping an orange.
This week’s travel travel tip (courtesy of my friend Julia): if you can’t afford the airfare and have to take the bus, splash out and purchase two seats next to each other! You’ll be surprised what a difference it makes.
This is about a journey I took in September 2018. Ebola checks continue at East African borders. At the point of writing, Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya are Ebola-free. For the latest information on Ebola, I follow World Health Organization (WHO) Uganda on Twitter.
Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!”
Kwita Izina – Rwanda’s gorilla naming ceremony
Gorilla tracking is said to be a “once in a lifetime” experience yet I love this primate encounter more each time 💗
Last week’s mountain gorilla tracking was even more exhilarating than the last time – but I’ll leave that story for another day. For now, imagine the calm here in Volcanoes National Park as a ranger guide watches a Blackback* male mountain gorilla …
*A Blackback will one day mature to be a Silverback gorilla.
I have huge respect for the rangers, guides and researchers on the ground who protect these beguiling creatures (and the porters clad in overalls and gum boots who effortlessly help us track).
What is Kwita Izina?
During the first week of September every year, celebrities from around the world touch down in Kinigi, Volcanoes National Park, to name the baby gorillas born in the last year in Rwanda. There is nothing like this anywhere else.
From early morning, thousands of young Rwandese throng to the event site. They wait excitedly for their favourite musicians to perform for them live, free of charge. It’s said 60,000 people attended Kwita Izina 2018!
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an opportunity to publicly thank the conservationists closest to protecting these great apes. It’s also a global showcase for the country’s tourism industry. Gorilla namers include Rwandan and international conservationists, sports personalities, renown philanthropists and diplomats. Read my blog from a previous Kwita Izina, in which I explain the derivation of the term and the history of its creation.
According to East African tourism expert Carmen Nibigira, this year’s event was “the best event ever!”
Why is Kwita Izina such an important event for Rwanda and Africa?
Thanks to conservation initiatives like Kwita Izina, the Mountain Gorilla population in the Virunga Massif has increased from 480 in 2010 to to 604 in 2016 (results of last census). The Virunga Massif covers Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda, and the Mikeno Sector of Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). In 1981, Mountain Gorilla numbers had dropped to just 242 individuals, according to the Rwanda Development Board. (Results of the latest gorilla census are expected to show a further increase in gorilla numbers. However the species is still classed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List).
Now in its 14th year, Kwita Izina has gone from being a one day gorilla naming event to a whole week of conservation and tourism related events. Tourism can be a powerful tool for lifting people out of poverty and Rwanda is pushing it at every level. One of the week’s events is the two-day Conversation on Conservation (CoC) forum in Kigali which takes a strategic look at conservation in the country.
What were the highlights of Kwita Izina 2018?
My 11 hour bus journey from Kampala to Kigali was worth every minute. Here are a few of the amazing people I met in Rwanda.
Prosper was very helpful when I was researching and writing the ecotourism guide“Walking with the Gorillas” published by Horizon Guides.
Did you know … trackers are now given beautiful presentation boxes of tea or coffee – Rwandese of course! (These replace the certificates we used to be given). Gorilla tracking in Rwanda now costs a whopping $1500 per permit as Rwanda pitches the country as a high-end tourism destination.
Susan and I watched three lions in Akagera National Park, ate Sambaza fish on Lake Kivu, survived the jaw-dropping canopy walkway in Nyungwe Forest, and enjoyed a thrilling gorilla tracking experience with the Titus gorilla family.
Anyone can get a flavour of Kwita Izina by visiting Vecotourism.org – one click and you are virtually there!
Here’s a full list of 2018’s gorilla namers. Information courtesy of RDB.
- – His Highness Sheikh Dr. Abdulaziz Ali Bin Rashid Al Nuami, the ‘Green Sheikh’, has dedicated his life to traveling and environmental stewardship.
- – Dr. Noeline Raondry Rakotoarisa is the Program Chief of Capacity Building and Partnerships Section for UNESCO/MAB (Man and Biosphere).
- – Madame Graca Machel is the former First Lady of South Africa and Mozambique. She is an international advocate for women’s and children’s rights.
- – Aliaume Damala Badara Akon Thiam is an American singer, songwriter, businessman, record producer and actor of Senegalese descent.
- – Samba Bathily is a Malian philanthropist, He is CEO of Solektra International and co-founder of Akon Lighting Africa with Akon and Thione Niang.
- – Alexandra Virina Scott is a retired English footballer who played as a right-back for Arsenal Women. She made 140 appearances for the English national team and represented Great Britain at the 2012 London Olympics.
– Laureano Bisan Etamé-Mayer, commonly known as Lauren, is a retired Cameroonian footballer, who played for the Cameroonian national team and Arsenal FC.
I always come away from Kwita Izina inspired. Rwanda tourism knows no bounds.
A big shout-out to every one at Rwanda Development Board for attending to every little detail of our superb tour of what some call the ‘Singapore of Africa.’
A special thank you to everyone at Serena Hotels who hosted us at the Kigali Serena Hotel and Lake Kivu Serena. The fabulous facilities were a real treat.
#VisitRwanda
Have you tracked the mountain gorillas? Have you attended Kwita Izina? What were your impressions?
Scrabble and a roaring fire: recipe for a cosy weekend at The Peak Spot Lodge, Rwanda
A weekend by an open fireplace at The Peak Spot Lodge “Jewel of the Virunga” a few minutes’ drive from the start of Rwanda’s Mountain Gorilla tracking
TIP: get up early to view the morning mist swirling around the volcanoes in the distance!
I recently spent two nights at The Peak Spot Lodge near Kinigi while researching an ecotourism guide to gorilla tracking. The Peak Spot is a cosy independently-owned lodge ideally located for travellers going gorilla tracking in Rwanda. It’s also a lovely place to just chill out.
This lodge is slightly off the beaten track, but absolutely worth it! You will not hear a vehicle the whole time you’re there.
The last few kilometres to The Peak Spot Lodge are on dirt roads, where progress is slow enough to smile and wave back at the villagers shouting “hello friend”
An invigorating start to the day: sunshine, fresh air and the smell of Eucalyptus
Every morning I travelled by moto (boda boda) motorbike taxi from The Peak Spot to the start of the gorilla tracking at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters in Kinigi. Here I mingled with tourists, watched the excellent Intore traditional dancers and interviewed some of the rangers who monitor, track, protect – and love – Rwanda’s mountain gorillas.
The drive by motorbike from The Peak Spot to Kinigi took 25 exhilarating minutes door-to-door. I was filming much of the way, enjoying incredible scenery and views of traditional village life. Most of the drive is on an excellent tarmac road that winds along to Kinigi itself.
It can be rather chilly in the mountains (especially for those of us who are used to the year-round warmth of Kampala!) but the lodge staff lit an open fire for us every time we sat down to eat or drink. The all-rounder staff member Alexis always knew when to put another log on the fire or come and refill our drinks. (It’s hard work playing Scrabble and listening to rock music you know!) He was also there to fill up our hot water bottles and tuck them under the bed covers for us. (Each bedroom also has a heater and a hot shower of course).
The lure of an open fire
“I hate Scrabble” I moaned until my competitive streak kicked in! A whole weekend marathon of Scrabble followed
Dinner was a simple but filling three-course meal of soup, main course and dessert. The Peak Spot has a well-stocked bar. We felt right at home when we noticed the bar stocked our favourite tipples (Uganda Waragi and Bond 7 respectively) but don’t forget to try a local beer too! Mutzig goes down a treat.
A close encounter with a member of Rwanda’s Susa family. Click on the image to link through to my “Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla tracking”
Everyone who goes gorilla tracking in Rwanda goes home with a certificate. Bragging rights, yay! My hour with the Susa gorilla family was action-packed
Between daydreams of gorillas and chatting around the fireplace at The Peak Spot, we ran out of time to taste banana wine or go on the community walk to the neighbouring village. I did enjoy walking around the lodge gardens however. The recycled Heineken beer bottle borders to the paths gave an unusual touch to the garden’s design.
How to travel to The Peak Spot from Kigali
I’ve been lucky enough to stay in a wide variety of lodges across East Africa. “Planes, trains and automobiles,” I’ve done the lot. On this occasion, we travelled by public transport between Kampala and Kinigi, and it could not have been easier.
Leaving The Peak Spot, we rode motos directly to Musanze (for 2,000 Rwandese francs) to catch a coaster to Kigali (for 1,750 Rwandese francs). From Nyabugogo bus park in central Kigali, we jumped on the Jaguar overnight coach back to the Pearl of Africa.
The Peak Spot “Jewel of the Virunga” is a great base for gorilla tracking, hiking and more
The Peak Spot opened two years ago and currently has one family cottage and three rooms, from $75/night. Two more cottages are being built. This rate includes breakfast lunch and dinner and a sauna. Tents are also available for $20 per person per night (to sleep two or four people).
The lodge has Wi-Fi and a small shop that sells some very cool T-shirts. The lodge even has a sauna! (I will have to come back to try that out). There are also plans to hire a masseur.
Thanks very much to Habib, Alexis, Benon (and all the behind-the-scenes staff that I did not meet). They gave lots of useful advice on the costs of public transport, the weather, what to wear, where to change money, called motos every time we needed one, and more. If you’re looking for an authentic Rwandese experience, at an affordable rate, look no further.
You can contact The Peak Spot via their web site or call +250 788441652. Please say the muzungu sent you 😉
Are you interested in tracking the gorillas in Rwanda? Then get in touch with the muzungu for more travel ideas and gorilla tracking tips.
Travel options for seeing the mountain gorillas
Can I fly to see the Mountain Gorillas? How long is the journey by road from Kampala or Kigali to the gorillas’ habitat?
The main roads leading to Uganda and Rwandas’ gorilla tracking areas are generally good but travel is much slower than on European or American roads, for example. Secondary roads are often slow and bumpy, especially approaching Uganda’s gorilla parks. Be prepared for long car journeys often taking most of the day. Four-wheel drive vehicles are required for certain routes in the rainy season. I’ve travelled to these areas by every possible means – private car, coach, public transport, boda boda and plane. However you travel, enjoy the journey! The scenery is fabulous.
Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas – is 8+ hours’ drive from Kampala or Entebbe. If you’ve never visited this part of the world at all, the drive is a fantastic opportunity to view African life in the trading centres you pass through. En route through the gloriously green Pearl of Africa you will cross the Equator (and the obligatory stop for photos!)
If you have time to spare, you can easily make a detour for a safari in Lake Mburo National Park or Queen Elizabeth National Park.
If you prefer to fly, buy a round trip air ticket from Entebbe to the Bwindi area (at a cost of $350 – $450). This one and a half hour flight in a small aircraft is out of this world! You pass over the islands on Lake Victoria, swampy marshlands, trading centres and the mist covered valleys of south-western Uganda. Seeing the cloud covered peaks of the volcanoes approaching the distance is an unforgettable sight. The transfer from the airstrips of Kisoro or Kihihi is approximately 30 minutes to one hour, depending where you are tracking the gorillas.
If you’re pushed for time, or you don’t fancy a long road drive, a flight to Kigali and a short drive is the easiest option. The drive to Ruhengeri (Virunga) Volcanoes National Park, home of Rwanda’s gorillas, takes just two hours from Rwanda’s capital city Kigali on very good roads. En route you will quickly understand why it is called ‘the Land of 1000 Hills’!
It is also possible to fly to Kigali then drive across the border to see Uganda’s gorillas. Both options take considerably less time than driving from Kampala.
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Rwanda
The Muzungu’s top reasons to #VisitRwanda
1 – Go mountain gorilla trekking in the Virunga mountains, northern Rwanda. I have written extensively about gorilla tracking in Rwanda. Click on the links for more information or refer to my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking.
2 – Learn about gorilla conservation. Visit the grave of famous primatologist Dian Fossey and her favourite gorilla, Digit
3 – Rwanda is an eco-tourist’s dream: 670 bird species, 400 butterfly species, primates galore!
4 – Golden monkey trekking is highly recommended!
5 – Enjoy safari game drives in Akagera National Park, bordering Uganda, a ‘small but perfectly formed’ savannah safari destination where animal numbers are on the increase. Read Rhinos to Rwanda: the largest ever transport of rhinos from Europe to Africa begins today.
6 – Take advantage of free WiFi across Kigali! Oh yes! You can even check your email or WhatsApp when you’re on the city’s buses.
7 – Learn about the genocide of 1994. Visit the Gisozi Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali. Incredibly moving and a must-visit experience.
8 – Lie on the tropical beach at Lake Kivu. Rwanda has a number of crystal clear lakes. The sandy beaches and tropical weather of Lake Kivu, shared with neighbouring Democratic Republic of the Congo, make the lake a popular weekend and holiday spot. Gisenyi and Kibuye are two popular resort towns.
9 – Go chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe Forest. Birding in Nyungwe Forest is popular and the forest is home to big groups of Black and White Colobus monkeys. I travelled to Nyungwe Forest with my good friend primatologist chimpanzee expert Julia. Julia Lloyd features in the World Atlas of Great Apes and Their Conservation (and is best known for her work in habituating the chimpanzees of Kibale Forest in Uganda).
10 – Hike the magical volcanoes of the Virunga
11 – Watch fabulous traditional Intore dancing. The traditional culture of Rwanda is evidenced everywhere: the Intore dancers are captivating!
12 – Rwanda is a small, accessible country with good roads
12 – English is the (new) lingua franca and French is spoken by many in the capital and in hotels and tourist destinations
13 – The East Africa Tourist Visa makes travel to Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya more affordable.
The small landlocked country of Rwanda is known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills,” something which you will very quickly appreciate on a road trip. I still have the feeling of being thrown from left to right, right to left, for hours on end, when we drove up and down the hills, round one bend, then back around another, as we travelled from Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, down to Bujumbura, the capital of Burundi. (Historically connected, the two countries share very similar geography).
Rwanda is flourishing, and tourists love to visit this safe and popular little country that has invested heavily in tourism and infrastructure over the last two decades.
Many visitors are lured to Rwanda by the famous and critically endangered Mountain Gorillas, who make their home in the staggeringly beautiful Virunga volcanic chain.
It is even possible to fly into Rwanda for just 24 hours to see the gorillas, but I wouldn’t recommend that, there’s a lot more to Rwanda than the mountain gorillas.
Did you know…? The East Africa Tourist Visa makes it easier and cheaper to combine a trip to Rwanda with a visit to Uganda and Kenya.
Are you planning a Rwanda tour? Check out my Travel Directory or read reviews of 100s of Rwanda tour operators on SafariBookings.com
The Kigali Marriott Hotel: American luxury with Rwandese class
The Kigali Marriott Hotel: American luxury with Rwandese class
Driving up to the rather smart Kigali Marriott, you might think this is just another American hotel. However, enter the building and you will be appreciate the local touches to every aspect of the hotel. The Kigali Marriott’s decor displays the very best of Rwanda’s high quality crafts industry. The interiors are thoughtfully done and ooze Rwandese character. This extends to the staff who are smartly dressed in tailored uniforms with a touch of kitenge fabric. Every interaction I had with staff was characterised by friendliness and politeness, in an understated Rwandese fashion. I felt very welcome.
Time was against me on my recent visit so I didn’t have long enough to swim in the pool, have a massage in the Saray Spa or enjoy the huge gym but there’s certainly plenty to do if you’re planning to spend a weekend in Kigali. Actually, why not start your weekend on a Thursday? Thursdays are Ladies Night at Iriba Bar, the trendy cocktail bar on the ground floor. Cocktails and house wine are half price for ladies on Thursdays. There is live music, and free entry to all. The Iriba Bar also has Happy Hour(s) from Monday to Friday from 5.30-7.30 where it’s 2 for 1 on regional bottled beers and house wine.
On Sundays, spend the day by the swimming pool and enjoy a leisurely brunch for 25,000 RWF (with unlimited soft drinks) or 32,000 RWF (add regional beers and house wine) or 38,000 RWF (add Champagne to all of the above!) By the way, it’s great to see that the Marriott Hotel employs a lifeguard.
A note about exchange rates: 25,000 RWF is just under 30 USD. 1,000 RWF is approx 1 USD (Jan 2020).
Breakfast at the Kigali Marriott Hotel
Eleven types of pastry, three types of doughnut, fresh waffles, an ‘omelette station’ offering 20+ ingredients, dried figs and mangoes, yoghurts, fresh fruits galore, bread pudding with chocolate sauce, meringues in four pastel colours, what an incredible breakfast display! I hardly knew where to start! African food – added to the menu by Executive Chef Eduardo Frausto Cornish – included gatogo (or ‘katogo’ in Uganda), kahunga (ugali) and Uganda’s famous rollex (“rolled eggs”) of an omelette served in a chapati. Throughout the hotel, Rwandese-produced coffee is served and promoted, thanks to the Question Coffee community development initiative. Scroll down to see a few of my photos.
The Kigali Marriott’s award-winning chef!
Since my visit to the hotel, I had an opportunity to meet Chef Eduardo, at the annual Silver Chef competition, which this year was held at Birdnest Bunyonyi Resort, Lake Bunyonyi in Uganda. He and his team had travelled from Kigali to support their competition candidate Chef Innocent Rutayisire.
Here the Marriott’s Chef Innocent was awarded second prize in a stiff competition between professional chefs working in the Gorilla Highlands region of Rwanda and southwestern Uganda.
Was this the comfiest bed ever?
My air-conditioned room had all the features you’d expect of a 5 star hotel: fabulously hot shower, deliciously inviting bathtub, in-room safe, ironing board, bathrobes, expensive toiletries, mini handtowels and possibly the comfiest bed I’ve ever slept in. (I was quite relieved that the many power points were of the three-pin variety as the muzungu had forgotten her adapter, as usual!)
Downstairs, the hotel has a state of the art fitness centre (gym), swimming pool, sauna and steam room. The Saray Spa has an extensive range of massages, body wraps, facials, waxing and scrubs. (There are singles and couples massage rooms, showers and lockers – every need is catered for). The Kigali Marriott has a range of flexible membership options, according to whether you are just visiting or are a Kigali resident wanting an occasional swim or regular gym membership.
The area around the pool has a welcoming, informal atmosphere and will soon offer barbeque options at the Sarabi Grill. The new Cucina Restaurant is finally open and serves top-class Italian food.
Perfectly set up – for business, leisure and tourism
The Kigali Marriott is the perfect hotel for visiting diplomats and VIPs, with close proximity to the Swiss and Russian embassies (and situated right next door to the Kigali Serena Hotel). The air-conditioned Executive Lounge (only accessible to guests staying on the Club Floor and above) is a good location for coffee meetings and catching up on some work. Breakfast and lunch can be served here and complimentary hot drinks and snacks are available 24 hours. The Executive Lounge has two private meeting rooms. Security levels are high. Only hotel residents can access the lifts, for example.
The hotel’s numerous boardrooms and function rooms are ideal for conferences, workshops, weddings, parties, cocktails, receptions and more. The Kilimanjaro Ballroom can be partitioned into smaller sections or opened onto the terrace for attractive breakout areas. It really is a splendid set-up.
Opened in October 2016, the Kigali Marriott is one hotel where I could gladly return and spend more time, but my next adventure beckoned. Next stop: Kinigi, home to Rwanda’s mountain gorillas!
DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. Thank you to the Kigali Marriott for hosting me. For more information on sponsored posts, please read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions.
Have you visited the Kigali Marriott? As you can see, even one night’s bed and breakfast is a real treat!
Why do I Blog? 10 Surprising Life Lessons from a Self-Confessed Blogaholic
Why do I blog? 10 Surprising Life Lessons from a Self-Confessed Blogaholic
Diary of a Muzungu. Ggaba landing site. PHOTO Isabel Romano, Diario de Abordo
1. Blogging is my friend.
2. Blogging is my creative outlet.
3. Blogging is my personal space when things in my life don’t work out the way I want them to.
Perception versus reality
4. Blogging = time out…
Blogging is my arena in which to:
5. … make mistakes
6. … win new clients
7. … make new friends
8. … learn new skills
9. … tell the world WHAT AN AMAZING PLACE UGANDA IS.
We all have to start somewhere…
I was a blogger before blogging was invented.
At boarding school, I wrote long letters home. When I was a teenager, I kept a secret diary (well, I thought I did, until – horror of horrors – my mum revealed some years later that she had read it!)
When I traveled, I wrote long letters home. When my relationship was going nowhere, I kept a secret diary.
When I gave up my old life in London to leave for Uganda, I started writing my blog – even before I’d started packing my suitcase.
A few of my many Uganda diaries. Diary of a Muzungu
A blog – an online Diary – of a Muzungu was the natural progression.
[I’m embarrassed at its ordinariness now but this was my first ever blog post, in 2008. And my mum was the first to comment – don’t mums rock?]
Stop making excuses Just-Do-It
10. A blogger has no time to be bored – the next story beckons. There are always ideas to research, to mull over, to discuss with friends.
11. “Are you writing about this in your Diary?” – has been an invitation to:
– go gorilla trekking in Rwanda
– meet the Omukama [traditional tribal King] at his Palace in Bunyoro, western Uganda
– attend the VIP launch of the inaugural Kampala Art Biennale
– meet my totem – the Red Tailed Monkey – in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
– experience Uganda’s solar eclipse! …
and so many other life-affirming East African experiences.
Some people spend a lifetime searching – but I Have Found My Niche and it is here in Uganda.
The five year evolution of my blog – from crappy updates on Blogger to self-hosted WordPress Wow!ness – reflects the development of my own aspirations and my professionalism as a blogger.
Diary of a Muzungu charts my progress. It shows me that if you really want something…
12. … JUST DO IT.
NEVER NEVER NEVER Give Up, said Winston Churchill. By Jove, he was spot on.
You don’t even need to put on those fake trainers 😉
Just Do It trainer heels
Do you write a blog?
What does blogging mean to you? I’d love to read your experiences!
Messing about on the River Nile. A week-end at The Haven, Jinja
A week-end at The Haven, Jinja – accommodation on the Nile
A cursory look at The Haven’s visitor’s book tells it all: full of compliments from first time, second time – even ninth time! – visitors. Just outside Jinja, The Haven’s accommodation and camping facilities are particularly popular with campers who just happen to be driving from Cape Town back to Europe via Jinja and Uganda
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Panorama of the Nile below The Haven at Jinja
I can’t believe it’s been four years since I last visited The Haven. My family had such a fantastic time last time that I was bit worried: Would this visit live up to the memories of the first time? Would the spectacular rapids beneath the Lodge still be visible or had they been submerged following the creation of the new dam?
Early morning fishing on the River Nile. View of the rapids from my room at The Haven
Like melted chocolate, the River Nile flows over the rocks below The Haven at Jinja. A short walk down to the rapids before breakfast is a MUST. It’s the best time of day.
I chatter, chatter as I flow to join the brimming river, for men may come and men may go, but I go on forever.- From The Brook, 1887 Lord Tennyson.
“You can really see how the village has developed!” Exclaimed Ma as Rashid drove us through the bush for the last couple of kilometres drive to The Haven. No doubt it is a combination of tourism and the Bujagali Falls dam that have increased local incomes, resulting in more brick houses and more tin roofs. Nonetheless, the route was as picturesque as ever.
I had forgotten about the legendary Haven breakfasts. When the staff say you are going to be served Continental Breakfast, they don’t just mean coffee and a bread roll. The staff ply you with an extensive menu that consists of: warm, freshly baked slabs of bread; home made fruit juice; a mixed platter of fruit; wafer thin pancakes with honey, chocolate spread and sumptuous mango compote; a mixed platter of cheese and thinly sliced cured meats (clue: the owner is German); and on top of all that lot is the cooked breakfast. These are not options, I hasten to add – this is the regular standard breakfast for everyone!
Just one element of the huge breakfast at The Haven Lodge Jinja Uganda
Blimey.
How I didn’t sink to the bottom of the swimming pool after that lot, I don’t know!
Did I say we ate well at The Haven? Sunday lunch starter was a yummy light salad of warm cashew nuts, black olives, tomato, onion and a vinaigrette dressing. We loved the lunch and evening menu options, always a choice of three main courses. I found the fish and the vegetable kebabs delicious; the caramelised banana pudding with ice cream was to die for. Red meat was on the menu too (but not for this Muzungu).
With these gargantuan tasty meals, you might have thought we would have (should have?) tried all those adventure activities we’d discussed … but the pool beckoned, as did the sun loungers and the hammocks, strategically slung so we could doze above the rapids while watching the Grade 5 white water rafters do all the work.
God my life sucks…
River Nile dining room view at The Haven Lodge Jinja
The outdoor seating at The Haven is designed to maximise the incredible view of the River Nile
Lime trees, bananas and colourful Bougainvillea decorate the grounds of the Haven. Fragrant wafts of Jasmine reached our dining table, adding to the magic of the setting.
The Haven is a wonderful place to take in riverside life: tiny fish are visible in the shallows of the Nile, multicoloured dragonflies and butterflies flourish by the river.
“SothisisaRiver”
“THE River,” corrected the Rat.
“And you really live by the river? What a jolly life!”
“By it and with it and on it and in it,” said the Rat. “It’s brother and sister to me, and aunts, and company, and food and drink, and (naturally) washing. It’s my world, and I don’t want any other. What it hasn’t got is not worth having, and what it doesn’t know is not worth knowing. Lord! The times we’ve had together…”
– From The Wind in the Willows, Kenneth Grahame
Ma has taken multitasking to a whole new level: birdwatching, filming and drinking Waragi and tonic! All done simultaneously while perched on our little boat.
Late afternoon is perfect time of day to take The Haven’s boat cruise. The lodge now has two electric boats, perfect for birders like us who love to get as close as we can to the birdlife
Our sunset cruise on the Nile below The Haven was a very laid-back, private affair in the hands of the very capable ‘Captain’ Charles, one of The Haven’s staff. A tray laden with Uganda Waragi, tonic water and a bucket of ice are the natural accompaniment to any boat cruise…. (surely everyone knows that?)
As we set off, a Ross’s Turaco flew across the river, black and red wings flapping above our heads.
Along the river shore, we spotted: a vibrant Jacana hopping delicately across the vegetation, our first Dwarf Bittern, the outline of a statuesque Purple Heron at the top of a tree, a Common Sandpiper, bright white Little Egrets and majestic African Fish Eagles.
Jacana bird on River Nile Jinja
The African Fish Eagle is such a HANDSOME bird!
“If the Eagles can’t find fish, they might come into the village and carry off a 3 kg duck!” Charles told us. That would be quite a sight.
Little Egret. Birdwatching from a boat on the River Nile
Charles moved the boat closer to one of the islands, so we could watch the Black Headed Weavers crafting their intricate nests. The Weavers trailed pieces of grass – the effect was as if they had long, thin, tails. Amidst the Weavers’ busy chatter, two Grey Herons made a 360° loop of the island before landing in one of the trees.
According to the book, “the Striped Kingfisher is a small and rather drab kingfisher” – but I spotted him and no-one else did – so to me he was GORGEOUS!
Charles explained how the River Nile separated the two historical kingdoms of Buganda and Basoga. It was interesting to hear the local names for some of the popular river birds. The Malachite Kingfisher is known as the rainbow bird (so much easier to remember in any language!) The African Darter is known as the snake bird, because of its looooooong neck.
Upstream we passed a huge Hammerkop nest at the top of a large tree. More of a house than a nest, did you know this Ugandan bird’s nest is the biggest of any in the world? (Don’t stand beneath one though: you never know what rodent or snake might fall out of it!)
A flock of Sacred Ibis flying to the roost on the River Nile
The birding highlight for me was looking up to see a flock of 14 Sacred Ibis fly in formation overhead. The actual highlight was being with my family, who’d flown all the way from the UK to see me.
As our little boat pootled upstream towards the dam, we noticed the Cormorants and Sacred Ibis flying downstream and away from us to their roost in the trees and bushes on the rapids below The Haven. Charles explained that there they feel safe from predators.
Dawn mist rises over the River Nile rapids, The Haven Lodge Jinja. You can just make out the roosting birds on the rocks and bushes separating the rapids
A tall and solitary mvule tree made me wonder what this landscape would have looked like 20, 50 or even 100 years ago. Was it once part of Mabira Forest?
Long-tailed cormorants Jinja
A few hundred metres from The Haven is the roar of white water over smooth granite boulders. Long Tailed and Great Cormorants dry their outstretched wings on the ammonia-stained branches of the low bushy trees on the rocks between the rapids.
Red-tailed monkey – my totem – eyeballing us at The Haven in Jinja
Rivers know this: there is no hurry. We shall get there some day. – A. A. Milne, Pooh’s Little Instruction Book
Vervet monkey along the River Nile
By contrast…
White water rafting Bujagali Falls – back in the days before Bujagali Dam flooded the upper section. (You now raft below the dam)
The Haven is a great base for river adventures – especially if you just want to watch them whil enjoying a beer!
Watch the white water rafters and kayakers on the river below The Haven
Unless you knew the river before, you probably wouldn’t detect the impact of the dam. Only the occasional eddies and swirls of water gave a clue to the rocks that lay beneath us. Charles revved up the engine slightly as we reverse boated what were once scary grade 5 rapids.
If only Ma realised – she certainly wouldn’t have crossed this stretch of white water five years ago!
Muzungu taking in the Sunrise over the River Nile. Ahhhhh…. The Haven Lodge, Jinja accommodation
Early morning, overlooking the rapids:
Between me and the white water is a single African Open Billed Stork perching atop a big bush, its beak glistening. These storks often look bedraggled and unkempt to me but this morning it shines. I wish I had my camera! I’m glad I didn’t have my camera… what an image: the gleam of shiny black feathers, early morning mist and the white water backdrop.
African Open billed Stork. COPYRIGHT 2011-2014 MARIE-FRANCE GRENOUILLET
About the accommodation at The Haven, Jinja
We’d loved the banda on our first visit, but on this occasion we stayed in the self-contained thatched family bungalow at the back of the compound. Although the front of the building doesn’t look onto the river itself, climb to the upper floor and the veranda looks out at right angles onto the Nile. The bedroom veranda was a great spot for evening sundowners.
Cottage overlooking the Nile at The Haven. PHOTO Keren Riley
Inside the honeymoon cottage – spacious, airy and with the constant sound of the River Nile to soothe you to sleep!
Oh what a lovely way to wake up – drinking tea while watching the river flow by…
Spot the African Fish Eagle! Mural in the honeymoon cottage
Being at the (less disturbed) back of the compound meant we had the best birdlife. We could twitch right from our beds! We never did work out quite what the bird was that sounded like a creaking wheelbarrow… The tiny bright blue and orange Malachite Kingfishers were easy enough to spot, however.
Isn’t this Malachite kingfisher gorgeous? This pretty bird measures just 12 cm long
The bungalows are spacious and can sleep four adults and two children. The double master bedroom has an ensuite bathroom. Also on the top floor, leading off the master bedroom, is the children’s bunkbed room. The decor here is functional; the honeymoon bungalows are far more decorative.
The facilities at The Haven are better than ever: a big private area for camping with hot showers and outdoor barbecue, mountain bikes for hire, a sandpit, trampoline, swing (and more) for the children, badminton, table tennis, satellite TV and free Wi-Fi in both the main dining area and cottages.
“We don’t stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing.”
George Bernard Shaw
Sundays can be busy. The swimming pool is for residents only, which some lunchtime visitors may find disappointing. The pool isn’t that big though, so this decision probably makes sense; The Haven can be busy at weekends.
Swimming pool The Haven Lodge Jinja River Nile
The Haven is now the base for Kayak the Nile. Many of Jinja’s adrenaline activities can be booked and organised through reception at the Haven. Special thanks to Abraham, who dashed off to the pharmacist for me when I suspected I had malaria!
If you’re looking for lodge accommodation near Jinja, you can tell I (and my family!) heartily recommend The Haven. The staff make you feel right at home, you will eat like a king and even the camping is an upmarket experience. Check out The Haven’s website or email thehavenuganda@yahoo.com or call +256 (0)702905959 / +256 (0)78 2905959.
Please tell them the Muzungu sent you 🙂
DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. I was delighted to be given a discounted room rate in return for this blog post. For more information, read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions.
Virunga Lodge: a 360-degree view of Rwanda’s volcanoes and lakes
A luxury gorilla safari with Volcanoes Safaris
Misty volcanic peaks and lakes dotted with small islands are the backdrop to the sensational Virunga Lodge, our base for a luxury gorilla safari, a 45 minute drive from Kinigi, the starting point for Rwanda’s gorilla trekking.
The volcano and lake geography combined to give us constantly changing weather. I was quite absorbed by it. At one point, a thick white fog completely obscured the volcanoes and Lakes Ruhondo and Bulera (Burera). The mist unveiled the volcanoes, one peak at a time. Every few minutes, I looked up to see the view evolve as the day progressed. Later, bright sunshine showed the detail of the villages far below us.
The main living and dining area of Virunga Lodge is perched on the top of a hill, 2300 metres above sea level. (Adjacent is a large football field cum helicopter pad cum stage for traditional Rwandese dancing by the charming and engaging Intore dancers).
I loved the African inspired décor: tribal art from the Congo, Rwandese wall hangings, black and white photographs and the library of conservation and travel related books. Snug in the huge living room, amongst the stacks of funky cushions, with an open fire burning in the late afternoon, the Muzungu planned her next East African adventure.
I loved the colour combination of Virunga Lodge’s interiors, intimate at night when candlelit. We all loved the food: the salmon mousse went down particularly well. The soups were heavenly and perfect for the chilly nights on the hill.
It hardly needs saying but: our Rwanda luxury gorilla safari trekking was an incredible experience – and without doubt lived up to the hype.
Becca Hensley wrote a wonderful account of our trek to see Rwanda’s mountain gorillas. Suffice to say, two weeks later, back in the city, and I’m still dreaming about our magical gorilla trekking encounter in the bamboo forest.
The music and good humour of the Intore Troupe’s traditional dancing were infectious. They weren’t taking no for an answer when they pulled us up onto our feet to dance with them!
The backdrop to their grassy stage were the peaks of Mounts Muhavura, Gahinga, Sabyinyo, Karisimbi and Visoke.
About Virunga Lodge
The twin Bulera banda’s wide veranda opens on to views high above Lake Bulera and its islands. The bandas are very spacious and well-equipped with a personal safe, a torch and solar lamp – even your own umbrella (indispensable in this part of the world!)
The sensors for the bathroom lights confused me to start with (as I was poised to insert a contact lens and the bathroom suddenly went black!) but I admired the considerable eco-efforts, here and throughout Volcanoes Safaris’ lodges.
Two of the bandas are now deluxe standard, with huge living space, and open fireplaces in the bedroom, private sitting room and outside on the veranda, perfect for honeymooners!
Upon arrival at Virunga Lodge, we were greeted with fresh sweet tree tomato juice and friendly staff who seemed only too happy to carry our big bags up to our banda rooms for us. The living and dining area is at the top of the hill, thus there is a short (but quite steep) walk from your banda.
Virunga Lodge provides free Wi-Fi, but the lodge’s remote location means it may not be as good a connection as you’re used to back home. The Muzungu’s advice? Leave the laptop at home, catch up on some reading, make some new friends and take the 360 degree views.
Activities from Virunga Lodge
The below are all included in the price of an overnight stay at Virunga Lodge:
- Traditional dance performance by the Intore Dance Troupe
- One complimentary massage
- Birding / birdwatching in and around the lodge’s terraced gardens or further afield, with a bird guide.
- A visit to the lodge’s Virunga Vocational Centre to learn about the community’s beekeeping and basket-weaving projects.
- Learn about the life of Dian Fossey in Virunga Lodge’s Dian Fossey map room, a space that is perfect for small conferences and special occasions.
Additional activities from Virunga Lodge
Rwanda has 10 gorilla families that have been habituated for tourists to visit: Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Umubano, Susa, Kwitonda, Karisimbi, Agashya, Bwenge, Ugyenda and Hirwa. Generally it takes between one hour and half a day to trek a gorilla family in Rwanda, but it may take up to 7 hours to visit the Susa family. Trekking the gorillas in Rwanda is usually a little easier than gorilla trekking in Bwindi (Uganda), as the forest is less dense. It is a 45 minute drive from Virunga Lodge to the starting point of the gorilla trekking in Kinigi.
- Hike a volcano:
- Karisimbi Volcano is the highest mountain in the Virunga chain at 4507 metres. Its (frequently) snow-capped peak gives it the alternative name of the “white shell” volcano. Warning: this two day walk (camp overnight) can be tough, wet and cold! The Karisimbi Volcano hike needs to be booked in advance.
- The Visoke Volcano has the iconic cone shape. In its crater lies a deep lake (3,700m). While the hike up isn’t too demanding, nevertheless the altitude can affect climbers because of the sharp ascent. The walk takes about 5-8 hours. (If you are travelling with Volcanoes Safaris, this activity is included in the cost of your safari).
- Famous primatologist Dian Fossey studied Mountain Gorillas in the foothills of Rwanda’s volcanoes. From Virunga Lodge, you can visit Dian Fossey’s grave, the graves of 30 Mountain Gorillas, and hear more about her ground-breaking work and legacy.
- December 26, 2015 marked the 30th anniversary of Dian Fossey’s death. Who murdered her is still not known, but it’s certain that her passion for protecting the mountain gorillas made her many enemies.
- In this short video clip, Praveen Moman, owner of Virunga Lodge, discusses Dian Fossey’s legacy and the importance that ethically managed ecotourism plays in the protection of the gorillas.
- Trek to see the endangered but beguiling Golden Monkeys.
- A stay at Virunga Lodge is highly recommended if you are invited to attend Kwita Izina, the annual gorilla naming ceremony.
- Lodge prices for foreign non-residents are all inclusive (three superb meals plus afternoon tea and snacks, all alcoholic drinks and a variety of community-based activities). Occasionally, there are special offers for local residents.
If you want to stay in a real ecolodge, then you will love Virunga Lodge.
Ecotourism is a word that’s often used but very few lodges live up to the title. Investments such as solar energy, rainwater harvesting, and low flushing eco-toilets are just some of the lodge’s environmentally friendly features. Active development of community projects (at this and other Volcanoes Safaris lodges) are key to the company’s vision.
The Virunga Community Projects support activities that enhance the livelihood of local communities and in turn support the survival of the great apes. “We believe (carefully controlled) ecotourism is essential to the survival of the great apes and that local people need to earn a livelihood if they are to appreciate the importance of protecting our closest primate relatives and their habitats.”
If you’ve travelled halfway round the world for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter with the gorillas, I would highly recommend staying at Virunga Lodge. We flew from Entebbe, Uganda to Kisoro with Aerolink and then drove across the border. You may come for the gorillas, but you will stay for the views – and the food! And the friendliest staff! – it all adds up to an unforgettable experience.
This blog is based on my personal experience. Thank you to Volcanoes Safaris for inviting me on this journalist’s trip and thank you to luxury travel writers Becca Hensley and Margie Goldsmith for all their tips and great stories!
Do you want to go gorilla trekking in Rwanda?
“Welcome to your home for the next few days” said Eunice, as we sat down for afternoon tea and gorilla trekking travel advice at the outdoor reception of Le Bambou Gorilla Resort, Kinigi in Rwanda.
After 12 hours on the bus, 10 hours from Kampala to Kigali and another 2 hours onto Kinigi, we were delighted to be able to stretch our legs. (I think next time I’ll fly!)
A troupe of dancers from the local village welcomed us with singing and dancing and we watched as passers-by gathered in a neighbouring field to enjoy the singing. What a beautiful way to start our stay. The music stayed with me as we were shown to our private cabin, set among pretty flower gardens. Made of solid volcanic rock, the cabins give you a feeling of total seclusion from the outside world. It felt like home right away, even more so when at dusk a man appeared at our door, his arms laden with firewood, to light a fire for us. It was cold up in the mountains. (Staying on the edge of Volcanoes National Park should have been a clue to the weather, I guess!)
What’s on the breakfast menu?
We ate well at Le Bambou Gorilla! Breakfast comprised freshly fried samosas, delicious omelettes and the tastiest yellow yolked eggs, the best passionfruit juice we’d ever tasted, local honey (crystallised in the cool mountain air), tea or coffee (Rwandese of course!) and more fabulous fresh fruit. There was, of course, the ubiquitous Blueband margarine! – the favourite spread on many an East African breakfast table.
How much is gorilla trekking in Rwanda?
Many people only know Kinigi or Musanze for gorilla trekking, but there’s a variety of ways to spend your time. Enjoying the peace and the wonderful views should not be underestimated!
Here are the current prices to track gorillas in Rwanda. We didn’t trek the gorillas that week-end – although I have since. Trekking the gorillas in Rwanda is quite a different experience to Diary of a Muzungu’s gorilla trekking in Uganda – but both were superb!
If you need advice on buying Rwanda gorilla permits, please contact the Muzungu.
What tourist activities are there in Kinigi area of Rwanda?
The local area, formerly known as Ruhengeri, is best known for being the Rwandan access point to see the Mountain Gorillas and so, on our first morning, we hitched a lift down to the entrance to Volcanoes National Park, just for a nose. Here you can visit the site of Kwita Izina the annual Gorilla Naming Ceremony, see beautiful bamboo huts, read more about the life of the Mountain Gorilla and visit a good quality craft shop, whose profits all benefit the local community. I came back to Kampala laden with baskets and woven pots!
- To really get a feel for a place, a visit to the local market is an absolute must. As our hosts toured Musanze market doing their weekly shop, we caused quite a stir by trying the Yellow Passionfruit and the Tree Tomatoes (a cross between Passion fruit and Pomegranate) and sharing our fresh popcorn with the local kids.
- Cultural village and village walk.
- Musanze Caves, on the outskirts of Musanze town (not far from Kinigi) are a relatively new attraction, now open to tourists. Guided tours are available.
Any Rwanda travel tips to share?
- The Rwandese speak Kinyarwanda, a Bantu language similar to those of Western Uganda and Burundi. Although English is now the official ‘lingua franca’ language, many people still only speak French – or speak neither English nor French! Travel with a phrase book or a local guide if you can.
- Beware the Akabanga chilli oil! The small plastic bottle – on every dining table – of what looks like eyedrops is in fact a noxious equivalent of West Indian scotch bonnet sauce. Seek directions before use!
- Tourist visas: British passport holders (like me) have to purchase an entry visa. Boo. Luckily, Rwandese entry visas can be purchased on arrival. You can also buy them online before traveling.
Travel tips: how do you travel from Uganda to Kinigi, Rwanda?
- Public transport is available virtually all the way to the lodge. (We traveled from Kampala, through Kigali). It’s easy, safe and cheap.
- Although many people would prefer to drive or fly, if you’re on a budget – or simply want to have a more African experience – a selection of bus services run several times a day between Kampala to Kigali. Smaller buses then go north to Musanze, from where you can take a car or ‘moto’ motorbike taxi onto Le Bambou.
- We chose to travel from Kampala with Jaguar Executive Coaches, recommended to us by Ugandans who have made the trip many times. The buses were clean, on time, comfortable (enough) and we and our luggage all arrived intact, both legs of the trip.
Le Bambou Gorilla Village, Kinigi, Rwanda is a small independent lodge owned by Jacky Gatera and Emmanuel Mujawayzu.
DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. I was lucky enough to be given a free night’s stay in return for this blog post. For more information, read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions. This is an edited version of a lodge review I wrote for The Eye Magazine Rwanda.
Have you been gorilla trekking in Rwanda? What are your Rwanda travel tips?
The Muzungu’s travel highlights of 2011 – Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda, Ethiopia, South Africa, Turkey!
Travel highlights – from across Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda, South Africa, Ethiopia and Turkey
If 2011 was busy, 2012 looks set to be busier still! Here are a few of 2011’s highlights for Diary of a Muzungu, Uganda travel blog …
Nairobi to Lake Naivasha Relay – local Maasai watched bemused as 100 Hashers ran through Hell’s Gate National Park
Travel to Kenya
The annual Naivasha Relay (84 km from Nairobi to Lake Naivasha) is one of the highlights of Nairobi Hash House Harriers’ calendar.
40 Ugandan Hashers travelled from Kampala to Kenya for the week-end party (I mean run!) I ran my share of tghe relay- 3 km to be exact – ‘good enough’ as we say in UG.
The weekend started with a 12 hour bus journey: The real ‘boda boda’ experience – travelling sidesaddle into Kenya.
Travel across Rwanda
A full day’s travelling by bus across Uganda, through Kigali, and onto the fabulous Volcanoes National Park (Parc Nationale des Virungas) to stay at Le Bambou Gorilla Village in Kinigi.
The muzungu travelled with her personal physician
Rwanda’s reputation precedes it in many positive ways nowadays.
The smooth tarmac in Kigali made a pleasant change from Uganda’s potholes; the legal obligation to wear a helmet on a boda boda (motorbike taxi) in Kigali came as a bit of a shock after Kampala’s very relaxed attitude to road safety!
A flight to South Africa via Nairobi
TIP: next time you fly, look at the map before you select your seat – choose a window seat, check which side of the plane to sit and have your camera ready. Some of my most memorable travel moments of 2011 have been from on high (and I haven’t even joined the Mile High Club yet!)
- Mount Kilimanjaro through the clouds;
- Traversing the seemingly endless azure blue of Lake Malawi;
- Skirting around the edges of Tanzania’s Ngorongoro Crater;
- Seeing volcanoes emerge over the horizon as we approached Nairobi;
- The shot of Kilimanjaro – en route to Johannesburg – is a favourite. Sigh …
Daybreak at 30,000 feet – Mt. Kilimanjaro in the distance
Johannesburg, South Africa
U2′s ‘Beautiful Day’ will forever remind me of a great ten days in Johannesburg, with a great friend and her beautiful daughter, and something deeper – retracing my political and musical roots:
South Africa – Under a blood red sky with U2
Thank you Holly! For the trip, for the friendship and for being a part of my journey as a Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer.
Ethiopia
Hashing – the ‘drinking club with a running problem’ – led me on a very merry dance (hic!) around Ethiopia for two truly memorable weeks. I can’t stop reliving and writing about Ethiopia, here’s one of my posts:
Africa Hash, Ethiopia – Feeling IRIE in Addis Ababa
Traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremony overlooking Tissisat Falls
A stopover in Istanbul, Turkey
On a trip back home to the UK, I stopped over in Istanbul for a day. Istanbul looks like my kind of place.
A day in … Istanbul got me thinking about how much I’d like to be travelling and writing about travel full-time.
Travel across Uganda
This year, I was excited to take part in the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s new tourism experience: Walking with Mongooses, a really fun and informative day out in Queen Elizabeth National Park. You may have watched the BBC’s ‘Banded Brothers’ TV series, all about these fascinating fellas.
Muzungu with Mongooses at Mweya, Queen Elizabeth National Park
This year has been a year for:
WRITING – articles for The Eye Magazine Rwanda, Uganda’s Business Today magazine and writing and producing Uganda Matters, the annual newsletter for the Uganda Conservation Foundation.
Diary of a Muzungu has been featuring on Lonely Planet since 2009 (PHEW! no wonder I’m knackered!)
Diary of a Muzungu was a Lonely Planet Featured Blogger from 2009 to 2012
CONNECTING – with published authors, Lonely Planet bloggers and the global travel blogosphere. Thanks in particular to Todd Wassel at Todd’s Wanderings, for the beautiful and fantabulous Around the World with 40 Lonely Planet bloggers ebook; Mazarine Treyz of Wildwoman Fundraising for her boundless creativity and energy; Wandering Trader Marcello Arrambide who dropped by Kampala and shared some awesome tips on travel blogging. Writing and blogging can be an introspective way to spend your spare time – but you guys keep me motivated. Thank you so much!
CHANGING CAREERS – I’ve always said that in Uganda, “business is social and social is business” and I like it that way…
After two and a half years as a VSO volunteer for the Uganda Conservation Foundation, it was time to move on and employ a local man to take over my role. I’m so proud to have been part of UCF (work trips to the Bush – safari yeah!)
A big achievement. Launch of the Pan African Conservation Education training manual, Ggaba PTC, Kampala with the Uganda Conservation Foundation team and Voluntary Service Overseas,
Despite the global recession, UCF’s donors continue to support our work with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. The Uganda Wildlife Authority is so pleased with UCF’s work in Queen Elizabeth National Park that UCF is now working with them to tackle poaching and human wildlife conflict in Murchison Falls National Park. (Damn, that’s one trip I missed out on!) As you can see, I still talk about UCF in the present tense and I’ll continue to do as much as I can to promote this fantastic charity.
Life as a VSO volunteer in Uganda has certainly had its ups and downs. It’s been a truly incredible three years so far. I love life in Uganda – but it does sometimes get the better of me:
Shotgun wedding – a surreal and intense day
Here’s a bit more about life as a volunteer in Uganda –
Still counting myself lucky! 2 years on …
So why am I still in Uganda? Here’s one reason – one of my favourite blogs from last year:
Early morning sights and sounds
Happy New Year everyone!
