Huge boost for Kenya tourism as UK relaxes travel restrictions
Kenya moves from red list to amber list
Finally! Kenya 🇰🇪 is off the UK’s red list! This will take effect at 4am, Wednesday 22 September 2021.
For the last few months, tens of thousands of British people have been denied the chance to travel to Kenya, one of their favourite holiday destinations. Equally, red list restrictions have been disastrous for Kenyans wanting to visit friends and relatives in the UK, and those who study or work in the UK.
While we appreciate the need to protect ourselves and others from COVID-19, the British “traffic light system” has created untold frustrations for travellers. Travel restrictions continue to cause massive financial losses for developing countries whose economies are reliant on tourism.
At the time of writing, leisure travel to red list countries is banned by the UK government and remains in place for Uganda, Rwanda, South Africa and many other countries. (Ironically, the UK has some of the world’s highest COVID infection rates). November 2021: travel is a continuous state of flux. If you have any East Africa travel-related questions you are always welcome to message me directly.
Are you traveling to Kenya?
According to the Magical Kenya website, all passengers travelling to Kenya from the UK must have a negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate conducted within 96 hours before travel. (Children under the age of five are exempt).
In addition, all passengers are required to self-isolate for seven days upon arrival (except if you are coming from the exempted countries) and must take a PCR test four days after arrival. [September 18th: will visitors to Kenya still need to self-isolate after 22nd September? I am looking for official guidance on that and shall update this blog once I find it].
All travellers need to complete a COVID-19 Travellers Health Surveillance Form before travelling. You’re advised to download the QR code which you will need to show to Port Health officials on arrival.
Are you travelling to the UK from Kenya?
According to the East African (September 17th 2021) “Travellers from Kenya will be exempted from compulsory hotel quarantine, although they may be required to isolate for 10 days and take tests.”
Read more about the red and amber list travel restrictions on the British government’s website.
I know from first-hand experience how creative we have to be if we want to avoid quarantine! In July 2021, I travelled from ‘red list Uganda’ via Spain in order to get into the UK without quarantining.
I regularly visit Kenya so I’m absolutely thrilled that red list restrictions are being removed. We now need Uganda, Rwanda, and South Africa to be removed from the UK’s red list!
Are you planning a trip to Kenya? Safari or coast – what is your favourite destination?
How to enter Red List UK via Spain
Do you want to travel to the UK from Uganda, Kenya or Rwanda in 2021? Here’s how I did it!
These East African countries – and many more around the world – are currently classified as Red List meaning that if you travel directly to England from a Red List country, you will need to spend a mandatory 10 days in government quarantine. This will cost you a formidable £1,750. Few of us have that money, hence a longer route to the UK through a third country is one option. Here is my story:
Disclaimer: don’t rely on everything I write here; circumstances are constantly changing and you need to check everything. I have a British passport. If you’re a different nationality, other rules may apply! For example, “if you have been in a country or territory on the red list in the last 10 days you will only be allowed to enter the UK if you are a British or Irish National, or you have residence rights in the UK.” (Oh yes, and England has slightly different rules from Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland!) At a certain point all this research gave me quite a headache but, now that I have settled with family in the UK for a few weeks, I can tell you that the whole circuitous adventure has been worth it! If you have any questions, please Contact the Muzungu. Better still, post your comments below so fellow travellers can see my responses as well. Scroll down for links to other COVID-19-related travel stories from Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda.
What are the UK’s rules for arrivals?
Travellers are assessed based on where they have been in the 10 days before you arrive in the UK. I quickly worked out that I had to travel via a Green or Amber List country. These rules apply if you are not fully vaccinated under the UK vaccination programme.
Before travel to England from an Amber List country, you must:
- take a COVID-19 test – children aged 10 and under do not need to take this test
- book and pay for day 2 and day 8 COVID-19 tests – to be taken after arrival in England
- complete a passenger locator form
Why travel now when it’s so complicated?
My dad celebrates his 80th birthday in August. I had set my heart on being with my family come hell or high water. However, “if conditions change in a country or territory, it can be moved from the amber list to the red list.” This can happen without warning, so I kept my travel plans secret in case I got marrooned somewhere!
Where I went wrong
I had taken a gamble on travelling from Uganda to Kenya, thinking that I would spend two weeks in Amber List Uganda before travelling to the UK. I miscalculated. UK put Uganda on the Red List before I had made my UK travel plan. I wanted to cry. It’s at that point that I realised how much I needed to see my family – birthday or no birthday. I had to work out how to travel from a Red List country to England / the UK.
Still, my decade plus as a travel blogger has taught me how the story only starts to get interesting when things go wrong!
Thankfully I have time. Most of my work is remote (I have been working from home longer than anyone I know) so self-isolation is a doddle. This meant I could travel via a Green or Amber List country and kill a few days there and thus legally enter UK ten days later.
Do vaccinations make travel easier?
I was one of the first people in Uganda to have my AstraZeneca shots. I had my first on March 19th, and my second ten weeks later. I have been desperate to relaunch my digital nomad lifestyle.
However, having being ‘double vaxxed’ is just a small part of the puzzle since we now find out we don’t have the right kind of vaccinations. Even for countries who do accept Covishield (AstraZeneca manufactured in India), we may not have the right accompanying paperwork (yet) but I was not prepared to give up.
At the beginning of July, I Googled “European countries that accept Covishield” and read that the European Union does not yet recognise Covishield. However, a number of European countries have announced that they will accept people who have two Covishield vaccinations. “Some European countries to allow travellers from India inoculated with Covishield”
That said, it is not simple to find confirmation of information around accepted vaccines. It took me three days of Google research, visiting airline and government websites, expat Facebook groups and WhatsApp conversations with friends in various countries to to find information that gave me the confidence to travel.
The EU Vaccine Passport and the NHS Covid Pass (UK) are just two of the number of ways that will help vaccinated people to travel. However, as a British expat who has been vaccinated in Uganda, I can’t subscribe to either scheme. (Will I be able to in the future? Who knows…)
Why travel to Spain from Uganda?
Scroll down to read why I spent two weeks in Vilanova i la Geltru in Catalunya, Spain and why I could not enter France, Portugal or Malta.
Why you can’t travel to Malta from Uganda
Although Malta does accept Covishield vaccinations, they do not currently accept Uganda’s proof of vaccinations. I was at the point of booking a fortnight’s AirBnB in Malta when I discovered that they would not let me enter the country(!) I could not find the clarification I needed on government websites so I emailed Visit Malta directly, attaching a copy of my handwritten vaccination certificate. They emailed to confirm it was not acceptable.
Why you can’t travel to France from Uganda
France is not open to tourists. You can only visit for exceptional reasons and I could not justify a visit, even though I have family there (cousins are not counted as close relatives). Damn, I could almost smell the lavender fields!
However, there was a possibility that I could travel to Spain and cross to France by road / train. I had heard other Brits successfully doing this. The airports are checking all travellers very carefully but land borders are not monitored as closely. I wasn’t sure I wanted to take any risks however.
Another issue I had was Brexit, godammit. My cousin alerted me to the need to fill in some additional paperwork. That sent me over the edge! La belle France – you were not meant to be…
Why you can’t travel to Portugal from Uganda
Portugal was high on the list of countries I wanted to visit but expat friends who live there say that only returning residents are allowed to enter the country. This was a big disappointment since I wanted to reconnect with an old friend there.
Why you can’t travel to Belgium from Uganda
Once I decided to fly with Brussels Airlines, it occurred to me that I could simply end the first part of my journey in Belgium and spend a fortnight there. However, travel from Uganda is currently only open to Belgian or EU residents (not Brits post-Brexit); thus I did not qualify. However, I was allowed to transit (stay in Brussels Airport between flights) as Uganda was not qualified as ‘very high risk.’
Why I travelled to Spain
I had read that Spain accepts Covishield. However, concerned by Malta’s rejection, I wanted to be 100% sure that Spain would let me enter the country before I booked my flight. I emailed the Spanish government cau-sp@spth.gob.es a copy of my handwritten vaccination card and they confirmed Covishield (AZ made in India) would be acceptable. Phew!
Flight booking
Brussels Airlines emerged as the cheapest option between Entebbe to Barcelona via Brussels with a choice of flight times.
For my COVID PCR test, I used Sameday Laboratories test provider in Entebbe. They were professional and quick. Prices vary according to the turnaround times. They can come to you or you can visit their small office at Imperial Mall.
Once I had my negative PCR test certificate, I was ready to complete the Spanish Passenger Locator Form. This was easy to fill in and I received my digital confirmation within seconds.
I had to show my negative PCR certificate at Entebbe and at Barcelona Airports. I carried my handwritten vaccination proof with me but Spanish authorities did not ask for it.
Note: you may also have to fill in the passenger locator form for any country that you transit through. Check before you fly.
What to expect when checking-in at Entebbe Airport
Overall, the check-in experience was okay. The expanded airport is certainly much nicer than it was. I have written separately about the excellent experience at Entebbe International Airport Arrivals.
I struggled to pull my heavy bag up the long slope towards check-in at Entebbe Airport. A helpful man helped me extricate the bag’s wheels from the grid. “I think you need to get a boyfriend,” he said. Rude or funny? I chose to laugh.
At the entrance to the marquee outside Departures, came a polite “Where are you flying to?”
I stood in the first line to have my PCR certificate checked. Sadly, the Port Health employee couldn’t manage a hello; nor did she make eye contact. If you arrive at Entebbe Airport without a printed copy of your negative PCR certificate, you will have to get one printed inside the airport. On the lower ground floor, one of the mobile money vendors will charge you 5,000 shillings per black and white print. I had to do this on a previous flight (it’s a hassle as you will have to go through security with all your luggage and get into a tiny lift).
As we were funnelled into the new terminal building, I accidentally jumped the queue. (How embarrassing, I should have realised the small groups of people were social distancing!) A super friendly Ugandan man greeted us with smiles and amusing conversation as we queued to have our bags scanned.
Next stop: shrink wrapping of my huge canvas bag where they advised me to save money and put 1kg stuff into my hand luggage. A courteous young Indian man plastic wrapped my bag and then escorted me plus bag to the Brussels Airlines counter. (Perhaps I don’t need a boyfriend after all?)
Despite my best efforts to have everything in place, I still forgot to do the Passenger Locator Form for my five hours transit in Brussels. Thankfully, Brussels Airlines staff at Entebbe Airport were helpful and very patient with this stressed-out muzungu. There was no public Wi-Fi at Entebbe Airport but luckily I had some data on my phone so I could fill in the Passenger Locator Form while in the check-in queue. The confirmation with QR code came through from Belgium instantly.
At passport control, the immigration officers scowled. There were no niceties here. Security continued with yet another scanning of (hand) luggage. I had wanted to use mobile money before my flight but I could not find anywhere to do that (you need to go back down into Arrivals).
The restrictions of Uganda’s 42 day lockdown meant that I didn’t get a chance to shop for gifts. Could I try my luck at Entebbe Airport? I couldn’t bear to part with five US dollars for a tiny hand-carved gorilla (especially knowing how few shillings locals on the edge of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park will make from the sale).
My flight with Brussels Airlines
Before take-off, staff walked up and down the aisles sanitising (how effective that is, I don’t know?) The safety video was rather fun. I did giggle at the advice not to bring your own drinks on board.
Passengers were given blankets, but no pillows or eye masks. Earphones came wrapped in paper (a good environmental solution). Food and drink (just one) were served quickly and I enjoyed: surprisingly good fish, fresh bread with real butter, a tasty sweet tart and good coffee. (The breakfast was rather poor however; no fruit and just a lot of stodgy pastry and biscuits).
Thankfully there were few announcements and I should have slept through the whole Brussels Airlines flight but woke a hundred times. (For over a year, I slept in the same bed – perhaps I need time to readjust to my digital nomad lifestyle!? Light from my neighbour’s entertainment screen kept flashing at me. I resisted the urge to lie across empty seats after the cabin attendant told the passenger next to me to return to his allocated seat.
Touchdown in Europe
Brussels Airport is one of Europe’s biggest hubs. The efficiency of the security scanning was like something out of a sci-fi film with vigilant staff constantly talking to passengers to make sure the whole system kept moving. It took seconds to login to the airport’s free Wi-Fi, meaning I could access my Passenger Locator Form and show it to immigration. I passed into the waiting area within a few minutes.
On my flight from Brussels to Barcelona, I was allocated a seat next to the emergency exit, a spot that is frequently given to passengers who are travelling on their own. The words “you need a boyfriend” rang in my ears!
How travel has changed
- Research thoroughly. Double-check your travel information from every angle. Things can change daily and without warning. Don’t rely on what I have written here, please.
- Pay a little extra for your flight so you can rebook if needed (e.g. if you get a positive COVID-19 test, or the country you are passing through or visiting goes into lockdown).
- Everything takes longer than before. I recommend 3 hours at the airport, 4 if you can for: the extra document checks, social distancing and the fact it is harder to communicate with masks on.
- You need to wear your mask properly all the time. (It’s amazing how people will stick to the rules when they really want something! It’s quite eye-opening).
- You are not allowed to change seats when you are on the plane. This is for contact tracing e.g. if someone on the flight develops COVID-19, the airline may contact you.
- Airports and restaurants have plenty of hand sanitiser but I didn’t see many people using it. Remain vigilant. Remember all the negative tests you need to continue traveling 😉
- Huge respect to the front-line staff who are having to wear their masks day in day out. I found it stressful in Spain where I was relying on lip reading and non-verbal communication to speak my schoolgirl Spanish!
What are the best tips for preparing to travel during the pandemic?
It’s important to do your paperwork in a specific order, for example:
- Flight booking. I booked my flight from Barcelona to London Gatwick with Vueling. A one-way flight cost €100, including large checked-in bag and hand luggage. I went for the ticket option that allowed one free rescheduling.
- COVID-19 test. 72 hours before leaving Spain, I had my COVID-19 test. I was charged €70. I received my test results in Spanish and English by SMS and email within 24 hours.
- Book and pay for day 2 and day 8 COVID-19 tests. (I really hated doing this!) The UK government has a list of 300+ suppliers, but you have to decide which one is the best for you. The information is clear and has website links and phone numbers. It also gives you an outline of prices. However, you need to decide whether you want to do the test at home, go to a clinic and have someone do the test for you, for example. I paid £108 for the two home test kits. They are very easy-to-use and come with full instructions. If you want “day 5 early release” this is when you have to book it.
- Complete the UK Passenger Locator Form online. You will need to provide the reference number confirming you have purchased your COVID-19 tests.
- Check-in online. Before I was allowed to check-in, I had to upload a copy of my negative PCR certificate and my UK Passenger Locator Form to the airline website. I then had to wait two hours before getting email approval to do the actual check-in. Vueling sent me a QR code boarding pass (which I did not need to print).
- Printing. I printed my negative PCR certificate, my passenger locator form and my boarding pass (just to cover all bases). I also had screenshots on my fully charged phone. I’m glad I did all of this because it gave me more confidence.
- Check-in at the airport. At Barcelona Airport, I waved the QR Code for my boarding pass at the staff to enter the building. I then joined a very long queue for the physical check-in. At the counter, I had to show print-outs of my negative PCR Certificate and UK Passenger Locator Form. I then proceeded straight to passport control and a final scanning of my hand luggage before the ten-minute walk to the departure gate. I didn’t have time to shop or buy a coffee; there are definitely more hoops to jump through when you fly nowadays.
When I touched down at London Gatwick, I sailed through the formalities. What a relief to be asked to remove my mask and exchange smiles with a friendly immigration officer! By the time I touched down in the UK, it was 14 days since I had left a red list country. I did everything by the book, as my passport and various certificates showed.
And finally…
I am now ‘free’ to self-isolate for 10 days. The UK’s government Contact and Trace team has called me every day, checking that I am staying at the address I wrote on my Passenger Locator Form. They also remind me of my responsibilities to test and to protect myself and others.
Is it worth travelling with all this extra hassle?
Absolutely! Travel is not only about reunions with long-lost family and friends, it’s about reconnecting with everyday life: watching families playing together on the beach, seeing teenagers kiss…
Before I sign off…
If you have any questions, you’re welcome to Contact the Muzungu. If you post your comments below, other travellers can see my responses as well.
A world class welcome at Entebbe Airport
Is it safe to travel to Uganda during COVID-19? Standard Operating Procedures at Entebbe International Airport
Yesterday I flew into Entebbe Airport from Moi International Airport (Mombasa), Kenya with Uganda Airlines. Uganda has pulled out all the stops to make a great first impression of the country. I was very impressed with the efficiency of the whole process!
This is a summary of my experience at around 11pm Sunday 4th July 2021. For the latest COVID-related travel updates from Entebbe Airport, read my Latest news for travellers to Uganda. I am endeavouring to update this blog regularly but it’s difficult to keep track of accurate info. If in doubt, you can always message me directly.
When you arrive at Entebbe Airport, you will be asked to show your passport, Yellow Fever certificate and negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate (an antigen test is not enough). Your temperature is taken automatically by a contactless Ipad-type screen. There were two lines of people for this and we moved very quickly. There were approximately 50 passengers in the arrivals hall when my Uganda Airlines flight from Mombasa landed. It took me around 15 minutes from entering the airport terminal building to exiting immigration. That is record timing!
My bags were already on the carousel by this time so I picked them immediately and then passed everything through the baggage scanner. Before exiting the airport building, three staff members asked where I had flown from and checked my passport. There were large graphics detailing the category one (highest risk) and category two (medium risk) countries and the restrictions that apply to each. Airport staff asked where I had traveled from (at the time of writing, Kenya is classed as a category two country) and whether I had been vaccinated. I showed proof of my two AstraZenecca (Covishield) vaccinations and they gave me a tiny slip of paper that I then handed to another two staff just outside the building. This slip of paper said I was ‘cleared to exit’, meaning I did not need any further PCR tests.
Do you need a PCR test to enter Uganda?
Another traveler arrived from Kenya with me. He said he had not been vaccinated and was told to go and have another PCR test. This he will have to pay $65 for. Entebbe Airport arrange the (complimentary) transport to the test site (a hotel in Entebbe). Travelers say the test process usually takes two to four hours before you can continue with your journey. You can wait for your results at the hotel (there is Wi-Fi, refreshments and charging points) or go and rest at one of the ‘designated hotels.’
NOTE: it has been proposed that everyone arriving at Entebbe Airport will need to a) have a negative PCR certificate plus B) have a PCR test on arrival, regardless of your vaccination status and where you are traveling from. You will need to check my Latest COVID-related news for Uganda blog to see whether that is going ahead or not.
The rules at Entebbe International Airport are clear and EVERY passenger and staff member followed the protocols (COVID-19 SOPs) throughout. Forget excuses, masks hanging off ears etc, everyone was doing the right thing.
600,000 Ugandans rely directly or indirectly on tourism so we’ve been absolutely devastated by the pandemic. Even this seasoned traveller was dreading flying with all the extra tests, masks and more so it was a huge relief to pass through Entebbe Airport so quickly.
Clearly the world is starved of positive news. Kudos to all the teams at Entebbe who are working to help #restarttourism
As you know, things change daily with travel restrictions and openings everywhere. If you need travel advice you are welcome to contact me directly.
July 28, 2021: I have passed through Entebbe International Airport a number of times in the past two months. You can read about the check-in / Departures experience here.
Diary of a Muzungu’s tips for staying sane during lockdown!
Entebbe Airport open for international tourism but Uganda under lockdown for 42 days
Click here to read President’s Museveni’s address on COVID-19 pandemic in Uganda, June 17th 2021.
Scroll down to read Diary of a Muzungu’s to do list – and keep sane – for the next 42 days in #Uganda!
Uganda is in total lockdown (to reduce spread of COVID-19) except for emergency vehicles, tourist vehicles and cargo (deliveries).
Diary of a Muzungu’s tips for staying sane during lockdown
- go for a walk / run or bike ride EVERY DAY. Get fit, and get those endorphins pumping around your body. You’ll thank me 😎
- gaze out of the window, often
- daydream about future travels
- drink water!
- look after yourselves
- watch the birds
- tend your garden, nurture some houseplants, buy some flowers
- check on your friends and family regularly, especially those who might be alone…
- focus on what you CAN do, not what you can’t
- read
- listen to audio books. Audible is amazing!
- don’t touch your eyes / mouth / nose unless you have washed your hands first
- cook yourself something special
- dance, baby!
- ask friends to recommend some new music
- don’t overdo the booze or weed
- keep a regular sleep routine
- focus on the positive – it’s there!
- wash your hands for 30 seconds with lots of soap
- change your mask daily. buy masks you can wash and iron. these disposable ones are an environmental nightmare.
- don’t buy stuff you don’t need. minimise spending.
- wake up early for the dawn chorus – it will lift your soul!
- rinse and repeat all of the above, daily
- spread the love
I have written extensively about #COVID-19 in Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. For Uganda-specific health advice read Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda. I’ve tried my best to keep information current but you’re always welcome to contact the muzungu directly for the latest advice.
See you on the other side! #StaySafeUG
Who were the Polish women who built a church in Uganda?
Discovering the unusual history behind the Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya near Masindi, western Uganda
Uganda consistently ranks highly as a country that cares for and welcomes refugees. This is not a new phenomenon, as a story from the 1940s reveals.
Visitors to Masindi are frequently amazed to learn that the area was once home to a community of Poles who built a church that remains popular with the community to this day. 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi, adjacent to Nyabyeya Forestry College, is Uganda’s only Polish church. If this is unusual, consider also the fact that it was built by refugees, mostly women, who fled Europe during the Second World War. The Polish Church at Nyabyeya is an anomaly, both architecturally and culturally but this unusual story has many positive elements, of sanctuary and childhood rediscovered.
Read their story and scroll down to view my photos of the church as it is today.
Why did Polish refugees come to Uganda?
In the early 1940s, more than 2,000 Polish women, children and elderly men arrived in western Uganda. They were some of over 18,000 Poles in 22 settlements in British colonies across Africa.
This group of Poles had been held in Siberian prisoner of war camps until 1941 when an amnesty allowed them to be freed. Polish men of fighting age joined General Anders’ army. With war raging across Europe, those who couldn’t join the army were offered shelter in one of Britain’s overseas territories. Over 110,000 people – the army and civilians – made their way from the Steppes of Russia to Iraq, Iran, Palestine and India. The Poles destined for Uganda were carried by boat to Mombasa and by rail across Kenya. Polish refugees arrived in Namasagali Port on the River Nile and were ferried onto Lake Kyoga by East African Harbors and Railways water transport up to Masindi Port. From here they boarded vehicles to their new homes (or settlements) near Masindi.
It’s hard to imagine what trials this community went through on their months and years of travel.
The book “From the Steppes to the Savannah” by Barbara Porajska recounts the story of their journey, mostly on foot, from the Russian Steppes and across the Indian Ocean to Mombasa and on to Masindi.
Who built the Polish Church near Masindi?
The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya was built almost entirely by the women who had left their husbands and other male relatives in Europe, fighting in World War Two.
The church was built between 1943-1945, at the foot of Mount Wanda. Above the church entrance is the Polish coat of arms with the inscription Poloniae semper Fidelis. On the exterior is another inscription (in Polish, English, Latin and Kinyoro) saying: “This church is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, Queen of the Polish Crown, built by Polish exiles while wandering to the free Fatherland.” The (original) pews are hard carved, as is the towering figure of Jesus, carved from a single tree trunk. Above the altar hangs the icon of Our Lady of Częstochowa. On the church walls are the Stations of the Way of the Cross, with inscriptions in Polish. The church floor is made of hand-made hexagonal bricks. To visit the church, you will need to book in advance as the church receives few visitors and is often locked. (Scroll down for more details).
What was life like in the Polish settlements near Masindi?
“For children, Africa was a paradise” compared to the hell of Siberia from where they had come. According to the Association of Saint Michael the Archangel:
“The Poles travelled by ship from India to the port of Mombasa in Kenya. Later, they travelled inland to Lake Albert in Uganda, where “a piece of jungle was grubbed up for them, and clay houses covered with ivory grass were gradually built. The floor in the houses was made of clay, instead of windows – wooden shutters, and the light was an oil lamp. The furniture of the houses was also primitive – a bunk with a mosquito net, a table and two benches. Each house was divided into three rooms, for each family there was one room. They cooked in a wood-burning kitchen that was outside the house. There was also an ‘outhouse’ next to it.
The villages were built in the shape of a cross or in the shape of the letter H. In the middle was a well, and four sandy roads spread to the four sides of the world. There was a tap at the mouth of each one, from where people got water. They had lunch every day. Although the rations were not large, no-one was hungry. There were gardens around the houses; there was a lot of fruit around, and despite the ban, they hunted in the jungle for wild pigs from which they made sausages. Resourceful housewives supposedly even made ‘sauerkraut’ by shredding immature pineapples.” (Translation from the Polish by Google Translate).
“In Polish settlements, there were common, secondary, vocational and musical schools, and despite the problems with textbooks, some even seemed to graduate there. Because there were no teachers, the older high school graduates began to teach in public schools after completing the pedagogical course. The estate also had a hospital, two shops, a common room and a library, a bakery, a sewing room, a brickyard, a joiner’s workshop and a shoemaker. There was also a scout team, a theatre group, orchestra and choir. After suffering in Siberia, the Poles wanted the next place of exile to resemble a lost homeland. A part of the village was also an orphanage for children whose loved ones were tortured in Russia, did not manage to cope with the hardships of the road or enlisted in the army.”
Stanisław Lula, who arrived in Uganda when he was 16 years old, recalls: “Masindi estate is a large village built especially for the reception of Polish refugees … It was established in 1942 and consisted of 8 villages connected with each other. Our village was called ‘Monkey Grove’, because it bordered with bush, where there were a lot of different monkeys.”
The traditional king Omukama Sir Tito Gafabua Winyi IV of Bunyoro paid occasional visits to the camp.
The Polish Church served Poles living here until the closing of the camp in 1948. Many died of tropical diseases. Of the survivors, few made it to Poland. The Polish Church’s cemetery has 51 graves, 44 of which are Polish. An inscription – also in Polish – reads ‘Pray for the Poles who died 1939 – 1947.’
In 2010 the cemetery was renovated by students from the Pedagogical University of Kraków in Poland.
What happened to the Polish community in Uganda and the church after World War II?
World War II ended in 1945. In 1948, the British started to close down the camps. Of 18,000 Poles who reached East Africa from Siberia, only 3,000 returned to Poland. The others left for other countries.
The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya remains a lively church. As the Forestry College 1 km away many of the Poles’ original houses still stand. Everyone is welcome to the Sunday services.
Visitors who are interested in learning about the Polish community’s impact may enjoy hearing that tin containers in local shops were referred to as Polands. If you wanted a portion of beans from the shop, you would ask for a ‘Poland of beans’ (rather than a cup of beans). These were named after the tins that the Polish had, presumably from the days of war rationing. I was interested to learn what this Polish community had left behind in terms of influence? These were not European colonisers. (How did they get on with local people?)
There was a second Polish settlement in Uganda, at Koja in eastern Uganda. This camp was bigger but razed to the ground after the Poles left. Masindi is therefore the main base in Uganda for Poles wishing to retrace their ancestors.
Why visit the Polish Church?
- Discover WWII history and its impact on East Africa
- A destination for Poles wishing to learn about their ancestors
- An active connection with Poland
- A place to admire Polish Catholic art and iconography
- An active church
How to find Masindi’s Polish Church
The church is 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi and just five minutes from the Royal Mile, Budongo Forest. It’s not signposted and the route takes you along winding dusty tracks (but you may just find it using Google Maps). My visit was organised by Sallie and Robert from New Court View Hotel in Masindi, where I stayed for five nights. They will make sure someone is there to open the church and give you a tour.
If you visit the Polish Church, do read the visitors’ book. Many comments are from descendants of the Poles who once lived here.
Further reading
- How East Africa became home for Polish exiles
- “Africa was the closest to Poland.” The rescued exiles from Siberia were sent to the Black Continent
- Photographs courtesy of Kresy-Siberia Foundation and blog post about Polish refugees in Uganda.
Do you enjoy East African history? Then you’ll love my story about the Uganda Railway and our epic train journey between Nairobi and Mombasa on the Lunatic Express. If you enjoy architecture, read History in your hand – a guide to exploring Kampala, Jinja, Entebbe and Fort Portal using maps and a mobile app.
Pant hoots and knuckle spins – Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest
The muzungu’s experience tracking chimpanzees in Uganda’s Kibale Forest and some tips for would-be trackers!
Chimps are the drama queens par excellence.
Most of my chimp encounters have been here at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest, where we frequently hear their pant hoots and the deep sound of buttress drumming that echoes through the forest. Chimps use this noise to communicate when they find food; it may also indicate the group is about to move. It doesn’t matter how often we hear the chimpanzees, it’s always exciting. We look at each other and ask “what are the chimps up to now?!”
I’ve been wanting to track the chimps for years. My primatologist friend Julia Lloyd led the team that habituated chimpanzees that tourists visit in Kibale Forest. How could I track without her?
However, after a year living tantalisingly close to the forest action, I couldn’t wait any longer: one birthday Cath, a one-time VSO volunteer like me, booked to see the chimps.
I’ve heard stories of multiple groups of tourists converging on the same group of chimpanzees. That’s not what I wanted. I wondered what my experience would be like?
NOTE: I went chimp tracking in Kibale Forest before the pandemic. Scroll down to the comments to read the Standard Operating Procedures that you will be expected to follow if you track chimpanzees or gorillas from now on.
Pant hoots and knuckle spins
“Welcome to Kibale National Park, a tropical rainforest, known as the primate capital of the world because of its high number of chimpanzees. Our afternoon of chimp tracking may take one or three hours.”
Before we embark on our forest adventure, our ranger guide Benson explains how we will be tracking the Kanyantale chimpanzee community who move through the forest in groups. “They are communities rather than tight-knit families like gorillas.” Ntale is the local Rutoro word for lion (not on Kibale’s species list, you may be relieved to hear!)
I’m super excited when I realise that there will be only two of us (plus Benson) for our afternoon tracking. We’ve lucked out!
As we enter Kibale Forest, we see evidence of elephants: broken trees lie across our path. Benson points to muddy streaks on tree trunks, where elephants have been rubbing their hulks to clean themselves – and marking their territory at the same time.
It’s a warm humid day. Our noses detect a fruity smell and Benson points out a chimp’s (night) nest above us. At our feet are half-eaten figs. Among the decaying leaves, roots and tree trunks lie cross farum, big fruits beloved by chimps (and inedible to us).
It’s thrilling to be in the middle of the forest (rather than at its edge). I feel my lungs expand to take in every atom of forest air. It smells so good.
We walk uphill and down. Are the chimps watching us, high in the trees?
Fifteen minutes pass.
Benson tries to contact another ranger but his radio is off. We continue wandering through the forest, but there is no sign of the chimpanzees. They seem to have disappeared.
Are we going to see the chimpanzees? Perhaps today is not our day. I let the disappointment wash over me. I know I’ll have other chances and being in the forest is a delight all of its own, but what of Cath? For her sake, I hope today is our day.
We can’t see the chimps, nor can we hear them. Can Benson?
“Hello. Hello Musa? Hello?” Benson is on the phone. He sounds worried.
“I don’t know where he left the chimpanzees. I am tracking and I have failed.”
I stifle a giggle.
“They are almost at the boundary with Julia’s,” he tells us. “They are moving toward the community” (outside the National Park).
We walk off track, pushing through low-hanging branches and creepers. Our destination is a towering fig tree on the park boundary.
“They are starting to move seriously” and so are we! We are almost running now.
“Look at the knuckle print; it’s fresh!” And there in the soft mud is the perfect outline of a primate’s knuckle. This is what I have come to see.
“Do you hear them?” Benson quizzes us. “Let’s move now, quickly!”
“We are really tracking!” I say out loud.
We hear a noise and pause, assuming it will be chimpanzees. We listen more carefully and recognise it as the Western Nicator, a bird we know from Sunbird Hill on the other side of the elephant trench.
“It’s a big one. I can see it!”
Benson cranks up the excitement levels. “See – more knuckle prints!” We follow, alert. “We should see the chimpanzees any time.”
The knuckle prints stop.
“Look,” he says as he points to a knuckle spin on the muddy trail. “This is where he has turned around.”
We can clearly see where the animal has spun around. We retrace our steps.
“Chimpanzees don’t like wet ground or water.” (Luckily the muzungu has her gum boots on!)
We hear the screams of chimpanzees in the distance. We leave the track and walk across a small wooden plank into the sunlight.
I stumble. In our rush to see the chimpanzees, I fall down a hole that is hidden by leaves and vegetation.
“They are on the ground ahead!” says our guide.
The deep thud of buttress drumming resonates through the trees.
Ahead of me, Cath turns on her heels, wide-eyed and yells at me “THIS IS AMAZING!”
I’m breathless. I expect trees and I expect distance but somehow I have not factored in hills. We are climbing now. There is no path; in our haste, we trip over tree roots and branches. Benson is slightly anxious. He wants us to push on.
I glimpse black fur and a pink bottom. The chimpanzees are on the ground now, pacing steadily forward. We are moving through their territory now.
Piercing screams fill the air.
“WE ARE GOING TO MISS THEM!” Shouts our guide.
With my heart pounding, I pause to catch my breath. We are racing to cross the track before the chimpanzees disappear. I see one chimp ahead of us. We are very close to the park boundary and Julia’s land now.
To our left there is loud screaming. What a din!
Ahead of us two chimps walk on the ground.
“They are inviting the others for supper,” says our guide, now confident.
He points to the female chimpanzee in oestrus (ready to mate). She has a swollen and painful-looking pink bum.
“She is so attractive to males,” Benson adds. Well, clearly! Nine or ten noisy male chimps compete raucously for the three females who are in oestrus.
We crane our necks and look up through the canopy of the tall Ficus mucuso fig tree. Leaves and figs fall around us. Something lands in my eye. The air buzzes with fruit flies.
“See the baby?” We watch a mother chimp with a baby on her back.
Of the 120 chimpanzees in Kibale’s Kanyantale community, we see around 15 individuals.
[I tell you what, it’s difficult to photograph a moving black shadow when you’re straining to look upwards while kneeling in the undergrowth and being rained on by figs!]
“Look one of the chimpanzees is making a nest,” Benson says and points upwards. “Come quickly – before they climb.” (It’s easier to see and photograph the primates on the ground and lower branches). It’s about four in the afternoon.
I don’t seem to be able to walk fast enough right now! Gumboots are no match for the slippery forest floor.
“Tintina is looking for food, he is shy.”
Tintina is one of Kibale’s oldest chimpanzees. He’s 44 years old and “very musticular.” (This Uglish pronunciation always tickles me). He is calm “not like those other guys.” The forest is quiet now and we pause for a few minutes to absorb the moment.
Mzee Tabu! I congratulate myself on recognising Tabu, a well-known elder of the community.
Seconds later, the silence is broken. Screams come from every direction, above us and around us.
We crunch forest debris underfoot as we pick up the pace and stride onwards.
It’s now 4.30.
“But it’s time to go back now,” Benson tells us. “It’s
going to get dark and this is the time for elephants.” Kibale Forest clearly
still has more mysteries for us.
The muzungu’s chimp tracking tips
Chimpanzee tracking is a popular tourist activity, particularly here in Kibale where it’s the main draw for many visitors to Uganda. There’s no guarantee that you’ll see the chimpanzees yet there’s a 90% likelihood you will.
If you’re chimp tracking in Kibale Forest, you can track first thing in the morning or at 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Morning tracking can be easier because the rangers will know where the chimps have slept. Others recommend tracking in the afternoon as chimps are more likely to be down on the ground (so you are not going to strain your neck for an hour!) We tracked on a Saturday afternoon at the end of September.
What should I wear to track chimps?
- The ideal footwear is ankle-high walking boots. There are plenty of holes, hidden tree trunks and tripping hazards galore. Protect those ankles. Trainers don’t give much grip. Gum boots protect your legs from nettles, thorns and ants (but I always feel dehydrated after wearing them for a few hours). Locals will say they like gum boots as they feel protected from snakes! (You are very unlikely to come across a snake when you are chimp tracking).
- Tuck your socks in. This keeps various creatures out!
- Carry a rain jacket. It can start raining anytime in the Kibale Forest. Clue: tropical rainforest!
- Take – and remember to drink – plenty of water.
What else do we know about the chimpanzees of Kibale National Park?
Kibale is home to 1,450 chimpanzees, according to the last census.
Research and tourism concentrates on 500 chimpanzees living in five communities. Three of them are the research communities of Kanyawara, Ngogo and Sebitoli. Two of the chimpanzee communities are open for tourism. Kanyanchu is the base for tracking the Kanyantale group. Barega is where tourists can participate in chimp habituation.
Chimp tracking rules
- Always pay heed to the Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers’ advice.
- Keep a distance of ten metres at all times “but we have those stubborn ones that may come closer” says the ranger. (NOTE: because of high risks of primates catching COVID-19, the 10-metre rule is standard for both chimp and gorilla tracking now)
- Remember we share virtually the same genes. This makes chimpanzees (and mountain gorillas) highly susceptible to our everyday diseases, including Coronavirus.
- You should not enter any of Uganda’s great ape forests if you’re splattering and coughing. Be responsible and don’t track if you have a cold. (If you are ill, permits can be refunded, at the discretion of the authorities).
- If you want to make use of ‘the bush toilet’, go off trail. The guide will tell you what to do and (take your TP back home with you).
- Be as quiet as possible. Do not mimic the vocalisations of chimpanzees. (You don’t want to be responsible for what might happen next!)
- Don’t use flash photography
- You will have maximum one hour with the chimps. Get out from behind the camera 😊
A few facts about chimpanzees
- Every night chimpanzees make a new nest “to confuse predators such as crowned eagles, leopards and snakes.”
- The average lifespan of a wild chimpanzee is 55 years. They can live up to 65 years in captivity.
- A chimpanzee’s diet is fairly diverse (rather like we humans). 40% of their diet is figs, of which there are 13 different types in the forest. 30% of their diet is fresh meat, 10% is wasps, bees and honey. 10% is dead wood and soil which they consume for the minerals. Dr. Jane Goodall – famous for her ground-breaking study of the chimpanzees of Gombe in Tanzania – was the first person to observe chimps eating other animals. She observed them hunt and eat small mammals such as monkeys and watched them use sticks to extract termites.
- A female chimp will be in oestrus (ready to conceive) for 29 to 32 days every four years.
How much does it cost to track the chimpanzees in Kibale?
The cost to track chimpanzees in Kibale in 2022 is $200 per person. For this, you get to spend maximum one hour with the chimpanzees. You have to be 12 years or older to track chimpanzees in Kibale Forest (or anywhere else in Uganda). This age limit has been reduced from 15 years.
How to book chimp tracking permits
You can book chimp tracking permits through Uganda Wildlife Authority, National Forestry Authority (Kalinzu, Bugoma, Budongo) or through a tour operator. Some hotels and lodges can also arrange your chimp tracking tours. Visit my Travel Directory to find a tour operator or hotel.
Nairobi in lockdown – but Kenya still open for international tourists
Kenya’s President announced #lockdown to reduce spread of Coronavirus in the five counties of Nairobi, Kajiado, Machakos, Kiambu and Nakuru – that has now passed. Pole sana to my friends in and around #Nairobi as President Uhuru Kenyatta announced another #lockdown Friday 26th March 2021.
UPDATE: Saturday, 1 May 2021. NAIROBI – Kenyan President Uhuru Kenyatta has lifted the COVID-19 lockdown; curfew hours in the Zoned Area are revised to 10 pm to 4 am and restaurants can reopen. Across Kenya, bars can operate until 7 pm; education institutions and sporting activities can resume; nevertheless, Kenyans are encouraged to work from home.
Photo of Nairobi – pre-lockdown – photo courtesy of @Kasyokall and @Kenyapics.
Nairobi has been experiencing a third wave of COVID-19 infections and Kenya is reporting the highest rates of Coronavirus infections since the pandemic began one year ago. Kenya’s rate of COVID-19 positives jumped from 2% to 22% between January and March 2021; Nairobi accounts for nearly 60% of those cases. (Note: Coronavirus infections are predicted to spike again in Uganda as a result of rainy season weather).
However, it’s not all gloom and doom. Jomo Kenyatta (Nairobi) and Moi International (Mombasa) Airports are still open for visitors coming on safari and beach holidays in Mombasa, Diani, Watamu and beyond.
Some key points about #NairobiLockdown for anyone who is in Nairobi (or “the five counties”) or who is planning to travel to Kenya:
- No movement by road, rail and air in and out of the counties of Nairobi, Kajiado, Machakos, Kiambu and Nakuru until further notice. (Anyone got a camel I can borrow?) 🐪 🤭
- You can move freely within the five counties but you can’t leave or enter the ‘One Zoned Area.’
- International arrivals into Nairobi are still permitted, as long as travellers have a negative COVID-19 test that is no more than 96 hours old.
- For my Ugandan readers: my understanding is you can still fly from Entebbe International Airport to Nairobi or from Entebbe to the Coast but internal flights (e.g. between Nairobi and the coast will cease on Monday 29th March 2021).
- International buses are affected too (and had only just restarted)… 😥
- The only bus service that Mash are currently operating is the Kitui to Mombasa route.
- No in-person meetings of any kind in the five counties until further notice. This includes sports matches, church services and political meetings.
- Bars are suspended and restaurants can only provide takeaway services and are banned from selling alcohol. Schools and universities are closed (except for those taking exams).
- Everyone has to work from home until further notice, except for those whose services can’t be provided remotely.
- Weddings may have no more than 30 people attending; no more than 50 people are allowed at a funeral.
- Curfew will start at 8 pm and end at 4 am in the five counties. (Elsewhere, Kenya’s nationwide curfew will continue from 10 pm to 4 am for a further 60 days effective from 12 March 2021).
- According to the UK’s Daily Telegraph, the British High Commission in Nairobi has indicated that Kenya is likely to be added to the UK government’s red list. “If you have been in or through any of the countries on the red list in the previous 10 days, you will be refused entry to the UK.” If indeed Kenya is added to the UK’s red list, British tourists will still be allowed to travel to Kenya but they will have to quarantine for ten days when they return home to the UK. That is likely to discourage many. However, since the UK government has banned all international travel until the end of June (at least), you might speculate that this is a ‘storm in a teacup’! By the time Brits are free to travel, Nairobi will have reemerged from lockdown (we hope). I believe it would be extremely unfair – and massively damaging for the Kenyan economy – to add Kenya to the UK’s red list. The biggest number of visitors to Kenya do not even visit Nairobi; they go on safari and they travel to the coast.
- UPDATE April 2 2021 Covid-19: Kenya added to UK’s ‘red list’ travel ban *scroll down to the comments for latest info on what that means*
- The UK has expressed concern that the free movement of people between Tanzania and Kenya during the pandemic has brought COVID-19 variants into Kenya. In April 2020, the late President Magufuli of Tanzania declared the country to be free of COVID-19. He claimed that God had protected Tanzania from the pandemic and ordered reopening of the country’s borders. Despite some border controls (people traveling from Tanzania into Kenya must have a negative Covid-19 certificate), there are many unofficial border crossings. Tanzania has not published statistics on Coronavirus since May 2020 (yet a friend recently attended a festival of 1000+ people in Zanzibar recently!) Keeping the Tanzania border open means that Kenyans who travel to the UK are forced to spend 10 days in government-sanctioned quarantine hotels.
- UPDATE end March 2021 President Suluhu says Tanzania to re-evaluate position on Covid-19 “We cannot isolate ourselves as if we are an Island but also, we cannot accept everything brought to us. We cannot continue just reading about Covid-19 worldwide, yet Tanzania is all blank [sic]. It is incomprehensible,” she said. “Tanzania needs to have its own understanding of where we stand on the issue of Covid-19.”
The new Nairobi lockdown is not good news. I only hope it stems the high rate of COVID-19 infections in and around Nairobi.
I can’t wait to revisit Nairobi. In fact, I’m planning to fly to Nairobi soon (and had my first COVID-19 jab in Kampala last week). Read my blog about the Nairobi Serena Hotel’s ‘architectural, cultural and conservation tour,’ a fascinating voyage of discovery across the continent – all from the hotel.
Thinking of all my friends in Kenya 🤗🇰🇪😷
Are you in Nairobi? Or are you planning to travel to Kenya soon? Travel arrangements change constantly during COVID-19 so I will be updating this page frequently. You are welcome to post a question here in the comments or contact me directly. (Comments are better as your questions may help a wider audience).
Grateful every day #LockdownDiaries
A year locked down with nature: Kibale Forest birds – and the occasional rat!
As we approach the one-year anniversary of Uganda’s lockdown, I take a moment to record the everyday sights and sounds of life in my wooden house on the edge of Kibale National Park. It’s easy to forget how different my life is to most people’s. Will I ever live in a modern apartment block again, I wonder?
One of my favourite forest noises is the lead-coloured flycatcher, whose two-tone call is my morning alarm. I don’t want to miss a note of the dawn chorus; in fact, it’s the first thing I miss when I travel. The rich birdsong is the most heartrendingly beautiful start to my day. Nowhere in Uganda can match Kibale Forest for birdsong!
There is little to keep us awake at night, bar the sounds of the forest. Being close to the Rwenzori Mountains, we are also treated to the occasional SHUDDER of an earth tremor. Believe me dear reader, the earth really does move in these parts!
Other night-time noises from the edge of Kibale Forest include Wood Owls, Verreau’s Eagle Owls and Black-shouldered Nightjars. The bark of the bushbuck, the YAHOO of baboons and the eerie calls of the Black and White Colobus Monkeys punctuate the night. This morning we were woken by chimpanzees (jealously guarding a fruiting fig tree); frogs can make a racket too! Sometimes we hear elephants, or at least we are alerted to their presence: the sound of ululating children and the loud banging of jerry cans is the usual signal that we have elephant visitors. They are mostly silent but for the rhythmic swish… swish… swish… as they push through three-metre high grass. When the elephants get too close to our neighbours’ crops, rangers sound warning shots into the air. (Once the elephants were so close to my house, I swear I felt the ground tremble). Once in a while, we hear the splintering of wood as elephants fell trees.
Occasionally, we hear the noise of a container lorry moving over the speed humps that stud the road that runs through Kibale Forest. (Thankfully, we don’t hear them often).
My mornings start with a pot of tea on my balcony (after a quick glance at the floor to see which moths the bat has been eating from its roost high in my thatch!)
Early morning sounds vary according to the season. There are birds galore! The high-pitched twittering of Sunbirds, the squawking of Great Blue Turacos and the whistle of African Grey Parrots are joined by gregarious Black and White Casqued Hornbills that bang their cumbersome-looking beaks against tree trunks as they wipe them clean. Kibale Forest’s birds enthrall me! Primates are infrequent visitors to the family compound but Red-tailed Monkeys are known to raid the fig tree just before dawn (before the dogs wake up!)
Geckos are welcome housemates (they love eating mosquitoes!) They nest in the thatch and I often find their perfectly round white eggs on my wooden floor. Occasionally the eggs splatter to reveal their runny yellow yolk.
A rustle in the thatch generally denotes a gecko so it’s a sound I usually ignore, until recently when something bigger than a gecko moved noisily above my head. The small hole at the apex of the thatch lets in a few inches of light; next to it was the squirming black body of a medium-sized snake, coiled along the rafters! I imagine it had been sunbathing on my roof. (The grass is ordered and we’ll be sealing that hole in the thatch very soon Ma!)
While it’s still cool, I explore the forest edge. “You do know elephants blocked our way last night, don’t you?” Julia tells me. “Well, I do now!”
My morning walk-cum-runs along the edge of Kibale National Park have kept me sane this past year. My series of #LockdownDiaries are inspired by the healing effects of nature. Every day is different, should you choose to notice it: I have learned that rare L’Hoest’s Monkeys do visit the forest edge occasionally; I know that ‘cuckoos follow the caterpillars’ meaning hear a cuckoo and you will notice the caterpillars; it also means peak butterfly season is approaching.
A few days ago I had to do a quick U-turn when I saw three chimpanzees along the path ahead of me. During lockdown, the paths became so overgrown and unused that I would run through ten spiders’ webs every morning. (I could dedicate a whole blog to the various spiders that I share my house with! But would it be as scary as this story about night-time invaders?)
I often return home with wet trainers: the morning dew and wading through the flooded ‘elephant potholes’ trail (churned up by seismic elephant footprints) destroyed half my footwear during lockdown.
Sometimes I disturb monkeys on my morning walks. Tut tut tut they warn me, as I march on, undeterred by them (or the tenacious safari ants that can grab on and bite me, even when I’m moving). Occasionally, I hear the startled run of a bushbuck. It’s rare to see this large antelope but we sometimes hear him. What a loud ugly bark he has!
Back in my house, it’s time for a cold shower. Water is pumped up from the local stream by the solar pump (assuming we have a few hours of sunhine).
Over at the pit latrine – refurbished with a shiny mabati tin roof after the thatch rotted and slowly slid off – live a pair of Blue-headed Agama Lizards. A quivering tail pokes out from underneath the mirror on the outside wall. The mirror wobbles as the lizards hear me approach. “I have seen you!” I snigger.
The back of the latrine door bears the muddy nest of a hornet. I used to be terrified of wasps but I’ve learnt they leave us alone; just allow them their flight path while they’re building their nest (and stuffing it full of live caterpillars for their larvae to feed on) and you will be perfect housemates. Wasps build their nests inside furniture (and occasionally on clothes). Paper wasps are very good parents; they will spend almost every living moment sitting on their nest and will not disturb us humans. We live in harmony.
My day proceeds with a few hours at my desk overlooking the forest. Trees in the family compound grow so quickly that we only have a small window through to the forest at the moment.
The ‘bombs’ from the tall Cordia tree near my house make us jump out of our skins! The small hard fruits smash onto the tin roof of the store cupboard (the family’s temporary kitchen during lockdown). The ‘bombing’ can make for fraught nerves…
On Sunday mornings, we hear drumming from the local church, a few hundred metres from us. It’s low-key and we like it (which is just as well since the same rhythm may rumble for two hours or more!)
Lunch in the village is a simple affair. Most days we eat ‘staff lunch’ of posho and beans. I love katogo of matooke and groundnuts too (now you may understand why I have started running again!)
Mid-afternoon, the house skink runs up and down the wooden posts holding the thatch above the balcony. We regularly eyeball each other. (I hope that damned cat doesn’t get him).
I collect insects – inside my mosquito net. Today I have found a long-horned beetle. Last week there was a praying mantis inside my net. One time I was lying in bed and a rat ran over my foot. Note to self: tuck the net in a bit better!
We do our best to rat-proof, mouse-proof and insect-proof our belongings. If we are not careful, stuff gets munched. Food scraps must quickly go in bins with lids; dry goods must be in sealed plastic containers. Soap and computer cables are other favourite foods of rodents. Clothes must be shaken before wearing: one day Julia’s mum put on a jumper. A skink jumped out of it, then another, then another!
My open-air shower doubles as a washing-up station. Showering, birdwatching and doing the dishes – this is multitasking ‘forest-style’.
My life here as blogger in residence at Sunbird Hill is ‘a happy accident’. I moved here – temporarily – three years ago. It’s been an incredible place to spend lockdown and I am grateful everyday.
It doesn’t mean I don’t miss Kampala (but let me not start on the list of places and people that I miss!)
We toast goodbye to the working day with the occasional sundowner. Uganda Waragi – with freshly roasted ground nuts – is the tipple of choice. It’s usually dark by 7 o’clock and we retire early. I surround myself with books and immerse myself in podcasts. I sleep early, eagerly anticipating the next dawn chorus!
If you enjoy the Muzungu’s dispatches from the forest, read my #LockdownDiaries series and A forest wakes up.
A forest wakes up
Birdwatching my way through lockdown in Kibale Forest
Lockdown has found me on the edge of Kibale Forest in western Uganda where I live in a thatched wooden house on stilts a few hundred metres from the elephant trench that marks the boundary of the National Park.
Dawn chorus on the edge of Kibale National Park is so hypnotic that I’m regularly awake by 6.21 every morning, eager not to miss the Lead-coloured Flycatcher’s soothing two-note call, my usual morning alarm.
By contrast, the past few awakenings have been rather jarring. They may be grand birds on the wing but, when they are calling from your roof, Hornbills are not always so welcome!
I spend the first hour of every day birdwatching and drinking tea on the balcony at the front of my house. Here on the Equator, it gets light around 7 o’clock throughout the year.
The black-and-white Casqued Hornbills are bouncing around the fig tree before dawn. One hop, two hop, a Hornbill with a black head and matching casque hops up and down the tree boosted by a big flap of its wings. The branch sags low under its weight. The bird picks a small green fig the size of a Malteser with its cumbersome-looking beak. It throws back its almighty casqued head to swallow it. (It looks like a lot of effort for a tiny fruit). These sometimes-clumsy birds are dainty eaters. Who would have guessed?
A pair of Hornbills are joined by a third. As I watch, bird number one feeds the third one. Could this giant be their baby? They wipe their beaks left and right against the lichen-covered trunk. A bird bangs its hollow casque on a branch; the unusual noise fills the air.
There’s a flash of blue! The first of the Great Blue Turacos glides in.
Another Hornbill glides down onto a branch on the edge of Kibale Forest 500 metres from where I’m sitting. I trace its distinct silhouette against the dark green background.
It seems impossible that my movement might scare these noisy birds, but they panic easily. Seven Hornbills fly noisily into the forest. Smaller birds scatter in their wake.
The light is too poor for the camera so I just sit and watch. A pair of Ross’s Turacos hop and creep up the tree trunks. I contrast the dainty hops of the Ross’s with the clumsy antics of the Great Blue Turacos bouncing and crashing through the branches.
The sound of heavy wing beats signals the arrival of another Hornbill; a second loud wing beat follows close behind. They settle in the fig tree. Single caws suggest happiness and contentment.
Small birds swoop in twos and threes. They are non-descript in the early morning light. As the minutes pass, their blue sheen confirms they are purple-headed starlings.
Violet-backed Starlings now number more than 20. In bright sunshine, the plumage of these same birds appears bright pink. I love the seasonal twittering of flocks of starlings.
The caws have subdued. Six Hornbills sit silently except for the occasional beat of a wing as they move through the branches, scouring the tree for figs. The slender branches of this inconspicuous tree are stronger than they look.
From the village a few kilometres away, I hear the repetitive cawing and screeching of more Hornbills. As I watch the tree over the days and weeks that the figs are ripe, I notice a pattern: the Hornbills call loudly from the village before one, two, three birds fly towards the forest. They pause here at Sunbird Hill for a few minutes before resuming their flight to the forest where they pass the day. Wave after wave of twos and threes pass overhead every morning and evening.
By contrast, Great Blue Turacos can – believe it not – be far quieter.
I recall a morning when I heard leaves dropping from the canopy of another fig tree by my house. I looked up, amazed to see 12 GBTs gobbling figs. When the fruits are ripe, turacos glide in stealthily; the only thing you might hear is the whirr of wings, not a single call. While they feed, the only sounds are leaves and figs dropping to the ground. Disturb them and the mass evacuation will be panicked and noisy! Their feeding habits are in marked contrast to their otherwise gregarious behaviour.
I once spotted both Meyer’s and African Grey Parrots feeding in this same tree. “It’s very rare to see these two parrot species together” said our friend Ronald, a ranger and tourism warden with the Uganda Wildlife Authority.
A Hornbill heaves into flight. It flies head-first in my direction, veering to the right as it passes within ten feet of me.
One, two, four Hornbills depart for the warmth of the sunlit trees on the forest edge. There is a moment of quiet.
With little noise and no drama, the Great Blue Turaco population of the fig tree now numbers eight or more. The diversity of large fruit-eating birds is a sign of the forest’s abundance.
A flash of grey feathers catches my eye as I am sitting at the laptop. Seconds later, this striking Lizard Buzzard (plus wriggling lunch) lands in the tree a few metres from my desk. The remains of a long tail suggest it was eating a snake. (It was intriguing to note the reptile’s tail was still flexing, five minutes into the lunch session!)
Mid-afternoon the birdsong is almost deafening. (Who can work with so much distraction?) I am drawn onto the balcony to just sit amid the music. Two species of starlings entertain me. The African Blue Flycatcher and Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher weave colourful patterns in the lower branches of the fig trees. After a short absence, the Black-and-white (Vanga) Shrike flycatchers are back. A flash of red signals the head feathers of a Yellow-spotted Barbet. Hairy-breasted and Double-toothed Barbets are occasional afternoon visitors. Last year, this same fig tree was full of Barbets for several weeks; this year Hornbills, Turacos and Starlings steal the show.
As dusk approaches, a primate face peers through the bright green foliage of a medium-sized tree. It’s a dark-haired monkey with a white snub nose and white cheeks. It leans forward to grab young shoots and reclines to reveal a white belly. It’s one of many monkey visitors to the ripe fig tree. Each species has their timeslot; the Red-tailed Nkima Monkey appears after birds have had their fill.
I wrote this episode of my #LockdownDiaries for Alan Davies and Ruth Davies who are best known for identifying a record-breaking 4,341 bird species on their gruelling one-year world tour. You can read the original story on their website: A View From Uganda – A Forest Wakes Up – Kibale National Park. Alan and Ruth are regular birdwatching visitors to Uganda and we hope to see them here at Sunbird Hill one day!
Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo goes virtual! Register now
Uganda Tourism Board launches POATE 2021- Uganda’s first ever virtual tourism expo
Article republished with kind permission of author Kojo Bentum Williams of Voyages Afriq. March 11th 2021.
Register for the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo 2021 and download the event app
The Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) has launched the 6th Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE 2021), which for the first time-ever, will be held virtually.
The 3-day event is scheduled to take place on 27th – 29th April 2021 under the theme “Restarting Tourism for Regional Economic Development.”
Speaking at the launch event on March 10th, CEO of UTB, Lilly Ajarova said, “Well aware that different players in the sector were affected variously, the key focus of POATE 2021 will be on four major sub-topics: Recovery, Rebuilding, Reconnecting and Rebooting the sector.”
CEO of UTB, Lilly Ajarova photographed with Hon. Godfrey Ssuubi Kiwanda, Uganda’s State Minister for Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities
“In light of the current climate in which there are multiple travel restrictions, especially in some of our key markets, as well as the need to ensure safety for all participants, POATE 2021 will exclusively be virtual.
“We have built a specialised virtual meeting platform that shall facilitate one-on-one meetings, virtual speed networking sessions as well as live conference sessions for domestic, regional and international tourism players.”
Participants for POATE 2021, according to the CEO, will be vetted through a set of criteria that has been developed by the national organising committee to ensure they are of the right calibre to showcase Destination Uganda’s offering.
“In line with UTB’s recovery marketing strategy, hosted buyers and exhibitors will be sourced from the existing core and emerging source markets within the East African Region (Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda), rest of Africa (Egypt, Nigeria, South Africa) and the international markets (North America, UK and Ireland, Germany speaking countries, Japan, Gulf states and China and the new markets of France, Belgium and Netherlands.”
“Participating hosted buyers will be sourced through the newly procured Market Destination Representative firms (MDRs) following a ratio of 80:20, in favour of core markets,” she revealed.
Ms. Lilly added that they hope to build on the successes of POATE 2020 where Uganda registered a 138% growth in exhibitors (from 63 exhibitors in 2018 to 150 exhibitors in 2020) and leveraging the power of the internet. This year we expect to attract more than 200 exhibitors.
POATE is a tourism exposition organised annually by the Uganda Tourism Board (UTB). It brings together all of Uganda’s tourism stakeholders for the greater purpose of individually showcasing their potential to the world on one hand, and jointly, to raise the profile of Uganda as a competitive and attractive destination for domestic, regional and international tourists.
The Muzungu adds: since the advent of the pandemic, Uganda has had a number of initiatives to promote domestic tourism. Read all about Lilly Ajarova’s climb of Margherita Peak in the Rwenzoris.
Do you want to register for the 2021 Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
Click here to register for POATE2021. It’s free.
After you have completed Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo registration, you will be sent a link to download the event app (which is called Whova). Install the app, click on find my event and type Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (or POATE). The app is an excellent resource and easy-to-use – but you won’t be able to use it until you have registered. Once you have access to the app, you can build your profile and start connecting with people. Look for attendees (bottom of the screen) and connect with me Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu. See you online!
Are you ready for the virtual Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
“I have liked you”
Gonja and roasted goat: bus travel from Kampala to Fort Portal
The bus from Kampala to Fort Portal leaves at 7 o’clock in the morning and I am told to be there an hour beforehand. I catch a boda boda across the city as the early morning traffic gathers. It’s refreshing to be driving through the cool early morning air with my bag packed for five days on the edge of Kibale Forest – away from the laptop.
Our boda heads downtown – avoiding a certain saloooon – where we are surrounded by thousands of people all jostling to get to work, to sell their wares, gearing up for the day ahead.
As we turn a corner, a tall man in bright green overalls shouts “Link? Link?”
I wasn’t sure where to find the Link bus park but there’s no mistaking the man in green who runs up the street to a yard filled with buses of the same bright green. The word LINK is written in large yellow letters.
I don’t have change (balance) so the man in green offers to take my money and buy a ticket for me and come back with the change for my boda boda. No thank you. He seems legitimate enough but I’m wary. (Once-upon-a-boyfriend-ago, a similar move in Cairo by a very helpful stranger separated us from all our money – on the first day of our holiday). Alert for similar tricks, I walk to a shop opposite the Link bus station, buy two bottles of water and have the change I need to pay for my boda boda and my bus ticket without using an intermediary.
On board I squash myself in near the back of the bus. I choose to sit near a lady and her baby. She beams at me as I sit down.
“But I need some water,” she says very loudly (to me?)
I’m not sure what I’m supposed to make of this so I choose to ignore her.
Before the bus departs for Fort Portal, a man walks up and down the aisle selling cakes. A small round cake is 500 Uganda shillings; a big square slab of cake is 1000 shillings. I opt for the smaller cake to accompany my breakfast apple.
The bus leaves on time.
I check WhatsApp while we are still in town. The guy next to me seems very interested in everything on my phone screen. “Ooo Facebook!” He exclaims. I try and ignore him and shield my screen from his interested eyes. His gaze keeps coming back to my phone. I glare at him. Out of the corner of my eye I see his ‘Nokia’ phone. I guess he is envious of my Smartphone. I feel bad for thinking mean thoughts.
We are seated one row in front of the back row. In my rush to get a seat I have (again) forgotten how I will regret sitting over the back wheel of the bus.
As the bus hits the open road to Fort Portal, phone networks go off and everyone settles down for a snooze. There’s a blast of cold wet air. Every time we slide the window shut, the juddering and shaking of the vehicle reopens it. The lady pulls the blanket over her child’s head. I try and keep myself warm by putting my bag on my lap.
The lady is trying to keep the window closed to keep her baby warm. The man sitting between us has fallen asleep. “Typical husband,” I think. “He’s asleep while she’s worrying about the baby.” I’m worried the baby is as cold as I am, so I fold a small piece of paper and pass it to her, thinking she may be able to use it to wedge the window shut. “Do you want me to put it out of the window?” She motions.
No!
I doze and am woken by the ringing of a phone. This lady does love to chat. I hear her cough and I get up to retrieve the second bottle of water from my bag. If she’s breast-feeding, she must need water.
We are halfway to Mubende before I buy my ticket. The ticket seller slowly works down the aisle, writing out each ticket by hand. The guy next to me peers into the pocket of my bag. I try and retrieve my money without showing him exactly how much I am carrying. He’s craning his neck to have a good look. The guy selling tickets doesn’t have enough change so he writes 5,000 UGX and his signature on the back of the ticket to denote that he has to pay me my balance.
At Mubende, plastic bowls full of roasted gonja and cardboard boxes of water and sodas are pushed up to the bus window. Someone waves roasted meat at us through the gap. I opt for a chapati. “Roasted or dry?” The young man asks me helpfully. I understand enough of the lady’s Luganda to know that she is complaining about the prices. She sends the young man to the shop with her order for orange squash and goat.
“I have liked you,” she said. “You can give me your number so I can call you.”
She tells me that she is going to Kasese (the stop after Fort Portal) to visit her parents for a few days and that she will go back to Kampala to see her husband.
“I thought this one was your husband?” I ask.
“No. This one I just met him on the bus.”
The young man jumps back on the bus brandishing wooden skewers of glistening roasted goat. He offers me one. It’s kind of him but I’m not in the mood for roasted goat. (I also recall the advice not to accept food or drink offered by strangers on public transport). This pair seem kind enough though.
He removes the flimsy bag (polythene paper in Uglish) from around the meat and screws into a small ball. He passes it to the woman who knows exactly what he wants her to do with it: she forces it out of the window.
He sits next to me, tearing at the meat with his teeth. His teeth hit a bone which he spits at his feet. A small heap of goat bones accumulate on the floor between us. The smell of roasted meat fills the air.
The chat chat chat starts again. I like this couple. She and her baby remind me of my niece and her baby. She is loud but friendly. He reminds me of someone from the village. He appears uneducated but innocent.
More passengers squeeze onto the bus. A lady passenger places her big bag on the aisle and sits on it and we’re off again. I am still standing up when the driver slams on the brakes. The guy next to me grimaces; I hang onto the side of the seat. There’s never a dull moment on the bus to Fort Portal.
On the other side of the aisle is a Muslim lady wearing a bright yellow headscarf and pink lipstick. She wears a bold kitenge print dress and an eyeful of cleavage.
I pull out a large tourist map of Kampala, fully expecting the young man to ogle at it and start asking questions. I’m rather pleased with my new map: KCCA have launched a tourism map of the city and I’m interested to see which places feature on it.
Nothing! The young man doesn’t even glimpse over. I read the map, unfold it, turn it over, fold again. I’m amazed – the guy doesn’t register interest even once! Is tourism just ‘a white people thing’ I ask myself?
I ask myself: I wonder if he can read? Or perhaps it’s only money and phones that make him tick?
The ticket inspector returns to check our tickets and I politely remind “sebo (sir)” whether he has my balance yet. He doesn’t seem to hear me.
“*Gwe!” Yells the young man, trying to back me up.
*It’s a little rude considering “Gwe” is old enough to be the young boy’s father!
Road travel from Kampala to Fort Portal via Mubende – tips for travelers
- There’s a universal price of 300 ugx for a short call whether at Kampala Link bus station, en route at Mubende or at the bus station in Fort Portal.
- For the best HOT gonja and chicken, buy directly from the women who are grilling (on the way back from the toilet!)
- If you take the afternoon bus from Fort Portal, you may be lucky enough to see the sun set over Lake Wamala. What a wonderful, unexpected sight that was.
- Link have made a lot of investment over the past few years: new buses, redesigned depots and generally helpful staff. The CCTV security system at the Kampala depot is another positive development too.
- Buying bus tickets is a lot easier and more secure since Link introduced a new digital ticketing solution with the KaCyber app. It’s great because it promotes social distancing (avoid the scrum at the booking office!) Book your ticket in advance and pay using mobile money or PayPal. The KaCyber Go App is free to download but not available on all Link bus routes yet. The app is particularly useful now since it is a ‘contactless’ solution (no need to touch money or paper tickets so no need to sanitise your hands!)
- I wrote this story before COVID-19 disorganised us.
- Diary of a Muzungu readers know I regularly take the bus from Kampala to Fort Portal and in October 2020 I took my first bus journey of the pandemic. All travellers have to wear facemasks and everyone’s hands are sprayed with disinfectant. I sat between one empty seat and the aisle. For social distancing purposes, the pattern of vacant seats was repeated throughout the bus.
Do you travel by bus? What are your travel tips? If you enjoy my bus journey stories, I have plenty more 😎
Travel to Rwanda during COVID-19: step by step guide
How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the COVID-19 pandemic
This article is for everyone who is planning to travel to Rwanda in 2021, whether ‘arriving, transferring, transiting or departing.’ I am updating this post regularly with traveller feedback, answers to Frequently Asked Questions about COVID-19 (Coronavirus), information from tour operators and guides in Rwanda and the Rwanda Development Board. Travel restrictions and protocols are subject to constant change so please post any questions in the comments or message the Muzungu directly for the latest Rwanda travel advice.
Rwanda recorded its first confirmed case of COVID-19 on March 14, 2020. The City of Kigali was in lockdown in 2021 but has reopened with numerous Standard Operating Procedures in place. Scroll down to the comments for links to latest lockdown news for Rwanda
Planning a trip to Uganda? For travel advice on similar topics, read Entebbe International Airport Uganda: travel in the new normal. Planning a trip to Kenya? Read Kenya still open to international tourists.
Kigali International Airport, Rwanda’s main airport, is open
With the world set to continue life in the ‘new normal,’ the Rwandan capital’s airport at Kanombe is operating again. Once you arrive at Kigali International Airport, you’ll go through a new set of procedures as you enter ‘the land of a thousand hills.’ I have tried to list the new requirements in chronological order.
With so many changes, it is good to know that visa on arrival remains available for all visitors to Rwanda.
How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the pandemic
- Do you need a negative COVID-19 test to fly to Rwanda?
- What are the SOPs (protocols) at Kigali International Airport?
- Is it true that I need a second COVID-19 test on arrival in Rwanda?
- Can I get visa on arrival in Rwanda?
- What if I am unable to get a test before I fly?
FAQs about quarantine in Rwanda
- Will I need to quarantine when I arrive in Kigali?
- How can I reach my quarantine hotel if I land during curfew?
- Can friends or family pick people from Kigali Airport?
- How do I book one of Rwanda’s official quarantine hotels?
- How long is the quarantine period in Rwanda?
- What are the protocols for passengers transiting Rwanda in 2021?
FAQs about COVID-19 tests in Rwanda
- How much does a COVID-19 test cost in Rwanda?
- Which COVID-19 test is required by the Rwandan government?
- Which COVID-19 test is required to track the gorillas in Rwanda?
- Who pays for my treatment if I test positive for COVID-19 in Rwanda?
PRE-DEPARTURE
Have a COVID-19 test. The only accepted test is a SARS-CoV 2 Real Time Polymerase Chain Reaction (RT-PCR) performed within 72 hours of departure time. (NOTE April 2021: not 120 hours as it was initially).
Click here to complete the Passenger Locator Form before boarding the plane to Rwanda. Include passport details and full travel info (including hotel bookings) and upload the COVID-19 test certificate The only exemptions are: travellers under 16 years old who are traveling with a parent or guardian, provided that their details are included on the parent or guardian’s form; they arrive and leave together; and stay at the same address in Rwanda. The information on the form will be used if you (or someone you’ve been in contact with while traveling to Rwanda) develops symptoms of coronavirus (COVID-19). The form must be submitted before departure. Look out for the email confirmation which will give your Unique Health Code (UHC) that you’ll be asked to show upon arrival in Rwanda.
Book one of Rwanda’s designated quarantine hotels. This list is dated December 2020.
ARRIVAL AT KIGALI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
All COVID-19 standard operating procedures (SOPs) are strictly observed at Kigali International Airport; screening procedures include body temperature check.
Inbound travellers (arriving or transiting) in Kigali Airport are required to present a certificate of a negative COVID-19 test. All arrivals must check in at one of the designated ‘quarantine hotels’ where you will be tested again, at your own expense. The RT-PCR COVID-19 test currently costs $50 USD (47,200 RWF) in Rwanda and payment can be made on the test appointment website. Test results will be sent by SMS or email. The turnaround time for results is 24 hours from the time a sample is collected.
The Government of Rwanda has negotiated special rates at a long list of designated hotels in in Kigali and Rusizi in different price categories for the 24-hour waiting period. The special hotel rate includes airport pick-up and is full board (three meals).
The hotel quarantine period is 24 hours while you wait for your test results. The test result is valid for five days (120 hours).
If a traveller tests positive for COVID-19 while in Rwanda, they will be isolated in a government-run treatment centre or a hotel at your own cost. You will not be permitted to leave Rwanda until you receive a negative PCR test result, which could take several weeks from the first detection of your infection. This applies even if asymptomatic.
FAQs about transit through Kigali, Rwanda
- I am passing through Kigali in transit. Do I need a COVID-19 test?
- There is no facility for me to get a COVID-19 test before I fly to Rwanda. What can I do?
Yes. Like other passengers, transit travellers will be screened upon arrival in Rwanda. However, beyond that it’s not clear – protocol for further tests depend on whether you are leaving the airport and for how long.
Visitors who are not able to test in their country of origin have the option of being tested twice in Rwanda. The first test will be done upon arrival at Kigali International Airport and the second test will be taken 48 hours post-arrival. Visitors will wait for their results at designated hotels and will only be allowed to visit tourist sites after two consecutive negative tests.
FAQs about flying out of Kigali
- Do you need a negative PCR test to fly from Rwanda?
- How many hours do you need to arrive at the airport before your flight?
- Where can you get COVID-19 tests done in Kigali?
- What if my flight from Kigali takes off during curfew?
The Government of Rwanda has a zero-tolerance policy for exporting positive cases of COVID-19.
Travellers departing from Rwanda must also have a negative RT-PCR COVID-19 test within 120 hours (and not less than 48 hours) before departure.
These tests are available at Rwandan Biomedical Centre (RBC) located in Kigali city centre. Rwandan Biomedical Centre has recently opened a testing facility in Musanze, the perfect location for gorilla tracking tourists who need to get the PCR test before heading to the airport. Booking and payment can be made on the test scheduling website. PCR test results are normally sent by SMS within 48 hours and available on RBC’s COVID-19 Test Results Portal. You will need to print out this travel certificate and have it ready to show at the entry to Kigali Airport.
The virus prevention measures and additional health screenings at the airport mean you’ll need to allow extra time. Four hours is recommended.
Government regulations during COVID-19 that tourists need to know
- Do you have to wear a mask in public in Rwanda?
- Is public transport working in Rwanda during the pandemic?
- Can I take a moto (motorbike ride) in Kigali?
- What are the curfew hours in Rwanda?
- How can I find a reputable tour company in Rwanda?
Face masks must be worn at all times in public. Major public facilities have temperature checks in place and most government buildings ask you to provide locator (contact tracing) information before they’ll let you in.
Rwanda COVID-19 update March 2021:
- The Kigali lockdown has been lifted. Private vehicles and taxis are allowed to take tourists across the country, to have COVID-19 test appointments or to go to Kigali airport to exit the country. If you’re looking for a reputable tour company in Rwanda, visit my Travel Directory.
- A curfew is in force from between 9 pm and 4 am.
- Ministry of Health directives include “mandatory wearing of masks by patrons before and after consumption of food, as well as physical distance of two metres between tables at all establishments.”
- Tourists should use cashless transactions such as bank transfer, mobile money, and debit / credit cards. Mobile money can be accessed using a local Sim card. It’s easy to set up, is widely accepted and has lower transaction these than any other method.
- All tourist vehicles and boats should have an unoccupied seat between each passenger.
- Meetings and events should have maximum 30% occupancy per room / space. COVID-19 tests are mandatory for meetings of more than 20 people.
- Restaurants are now allowed to operate with a maximum 30 per cent of their occupancy.
Are private cars allowed to cross the Rwanda border?
At present am I able to cross into Uganda from Rwanda at a land border in south east Uganda? I would be going to Kisoro. I would be travelling as an individual visitor, not with a tour group. Can I walk across a border into Uganda from Rwanda to get to Kisoro?
Enquiry from a traveler.
Rwanda’s major land borders with Burundi, Tanzania and Uganda still remain closed except for returning Rwandan citizens or residents. The exception to this rule are cargo trucks, whose drivers must undergo quarantine before heading into Rwanda.
The Muzungu adds: I do know of individuals (with work permits and/or residency) who have crossed the land borders in 2021. Tourist vans are not crossing; however I have a verbatim report of this being possible if your tour company gets special permission, in advance, from Kigali. However, the process is bureaucratic and not recommended, according to a source in tourism.
Are you gorilla trekking in Rwanda?
- What are the SOPs for tracking gorillas and chimps?
- Does Rwanda have promotional prices to track gorillas in 2021?
- What do domestic tourists need to know about tourism in Rwanda?
- Do I need a COVID-19 test if I’m going on safari in Akagera National Park?
- Are Rwanda’s National Parks open?
If you’re planning to visit Rwanda’s National Parks or track the gorillas, you will need to show your negative test certificate before you are allowed to enter. The only accepted test for Volcanoes, Nyungwe and Gishwati-Mukura National Parks is RT-PCR. A negative Rapid Antigen Test RDT is acceptable for Akagera National Park. All other tourism destinations and hotels will accept either a RDT or RT – PCR test.
** I am publishing a separate blog about gorilla tracking in Rwanda during the pandemic. If you have scrolled this far and don’t see it, please contact me. New rules apply for tracking gorillas and other primates.
Have you heard of Red Rocks? Make time for authentic cultural tourism.
After the gorilla tracking experience – or as an engaging day trip from Kigali – taste authentic cultural tourism at Red Rocks Cultural Centre and Campsite in Musanze, just a few kilometres away from the gorillas. The Northern Province is best known for the gorillas but also a hub for community tourism.
Explore and discover a wide range of cultural activities: be entertained by a traditional local dancer, watch how local banana beer is made, participate in cooking Rwandese cuisine or simply enjoy storytelling by the bonfire with locals. Learn about the history of Rwanda while tasting freshly-roasted corn (maize) or potatoes.
Red Rocks also offers lessons in basket-weaving: women artisans show you how to make the traditional Agaseke basket. Visit the Red Rocks Initiatives art gallery in Kinigi, create art to take home as a souvenir and witness how arts contribute to conservation of the gorillas, and the wider environment. Visitors can buy quality basketry, craft and art souvenirs directly from the artisans at very affordable prices. This support is particularly valued now.
Red Rocks Cultural Centre was established by Greg Bakunzi to support sustainable community development. He is optimistic that local tourism will remain resilient during travel’s trying times of COVID-19. “We have been encouraging Rwandans to become domestic travellers and bridge the gap caused by the big drop in international arrivals. These local visitors have given our host families and communities confidence that gradually we shall resume full-scale tourism, despite the long haul this global pandemic has created.”
I’ve visited Red Rocks a number of times and love the buzz at their community centre.
Further reading about COVID-19 in Rwanda, government advice about travelling during the pandemic and emergency contact information.
- Info note for Passengers arriving or departing from Rwanda, Rwanda Biomedical Centre, Government of Rwanda
- A list of Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Rwanda
- COVID-19 pandemic – Rwanda stats.
- COVID-19 Information, U.S. Embassy in Rwanda
- Kigali International Airport official site
- Coronavirus. Hospital emergency contacts, Rwanda Biomedical Centre Emergency toll free number in Rwanda: 114.
- RBC Medical Team on duty at Kigali Airport 24/7: +250 781 415724 / covid@rbc.gov.rw
