Rwenzori Mountains National Park
Rwenzori Mountains National Park – a snowball fight on the Equator?
The Rwenzoris lie on Uganda’s western border and are shared with the DRC. In 150 AD the philosopher Ptolemy named the ‘Mountains of the Moon’ as the Source of the Nile
Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. According to the Uganda Wildlife Authority, “Rwenzori Mountains National Park comprises the main part of the Rwenzori mountain chain, which includes Africa’s third highest peak [Margherita Peak] at 5,109 metres above sea level. The combination of spectacular snow-capped peaks, glaciers, V-shaped valleys, fast flowing rivers with magnificent waterfalls, clear blue lakes and unique flora contributes to the area’s exceptional natural beauty. The Rwenzori mountains support the richest montane flora in Africa, encompassing the charismatic giant lobelias, groundsels, and giant heathers which have been called “Africa’s botanical big game”.
In AD150, the geographer Ptolemy from Alexandria labelled Mt. Rwenzori “the Mountains of the Moon.” Explorers spent centuries trying to verify the Source of the Nile. (The Rwenzoris are one of the Nile’s many sources). If you are interested in geography and history, I highly recommend reading Andrew Roberts’ 2021 rewrite of his Uganda’s Rift Valley (review to be published on Diary of a Muzungu soon). One of his many sources is the book Rwenzori Mountains National Park, published in 1998 by Makerere University.
In 1888, the explorer Henry Stanley called the Rwenzori by its local name ‘Ruwenzori’, meaning ‘rainmaker’ or ‘cloud king.’ For centuries, local people were terrified of the cloud king and wouldn’t venture up into the interior of the mountain range. The appeal of jobs as tourism porters (and the ready cash that brings) has changed that, superficially at least.
Sunny weather can’t be guaranteed! To hike the summits, it’s recommended you climb during the dry seasons. It rains frequently in the Rwenzoris
On a clear day, the Rwenzori Mountains – the fabled ‘Mountains of the Moon’ – provide a jaw-dropping backdrop to the hills of Fort Portal. Often the Rwenzoris are simply an area we pass through on our journey between Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls but if you want tranquility, clean air and peace, this is the place to visit. Paddling in the cool, clear waters of the Rwenzori’s streams and rivers is magical. The mountain has over fifty lakes!
Three-horned Chameleon, Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzoris
There are dozens of walks you can do in the foothills of the Rwenzori’s without attempting to scramble to one of the peaks. Half or full day walks, camping, birdwatching, a community coffee tour, hot springs, mountain biking and treks to see waterfalls (and to find the chameleons!) are just a few activities you can do.
Rwenzori (or Ruwenzori) Turaco, as pictured in the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography. Click on the image to visit his Facebook page
I was invited to climb Margherita Peak with the same friends I climbed Mount Elgon with. A good level of fitness is required to climb Margherita Peak (and my knee injury prevented me going in the end). It’s very cold up in the mountains at night; during rainy season the boggy terrain can be hard going and exhausting. Global warming has substantially melted the glaciers, opening up crevasses, making the last day’s ascent a technical climb requiring the right equipment.
Boardwalk at Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzori Mountains
At Ruboni Community Camp, the accommodation is basic but the food is good. We were entranced by the early morning mist rising above the lower peaks of the Rwenzori’s. It looked as if the mountain was actually creating the clouds – is that possible?
Murchison Falls National Park
Visit the spectacular Murchison Falls! Take the boat ride to the Bottom of the Falls. Experience the thundering water under your feet at the Top of the Falls!
That’s my dad! The Devil’s Cauldron. Top of Murchison Falls
Murchison Falls National Park is named after the spectacular waterfalls, the undoubted geographical highlight of the area. It was during his 1860-70’s expeditions that the explorer Sir Samuel Baker named the Falls after Sir Roderick Murchison, the President of The Royal Geographical Society. During Idi Amin’s time, the Falls were known by their local name: Kabalega Falls, after the notorious warlord king of Bunyoro Kingdom.
Sir Winston Churchill described the plains around Murchison Falls as “Kew Gardens and the [London] zoo on an unlimited scale.”
Before I go any further, I must alert you to the heinous idea of building a dam at Murchison Falls. Read my blog “There is no Murchison Falls National Park without Murchison Falls.” The debate rages on.
On an early morning game drive in Murchison, you’re likely to see elephants, Cape buffalo, Rothschild’s giraffes, lion, Uganda kob, warthog and more. My friend saw a porcupine on safari in Murchison! An armed Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger escorts visitors on game drives.
Murchison Falls National Park has over 400 bird species. I love the big Abyssinian Ground Hornbill! I spotted these as we drove along the south bank of the Nile
The boat trip to the Bottom of the Falls is second to none. It’s an absolute must-do! You will see huge Nile crocodiles, hippos and 100s of birds, including brightly-coloured Beeeaters, Spoonbills and – if you’re lucky – you can even see the prehistoric-looking Shoebill, which is a cross between the dodo and a dinosaur! The boat takes you to the base of the Falls where you can stop for some great photo opportunities.
On my last trip we saw an amazing THREE Shoebills on the River Nile delta cruise with Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga
View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda
The hour’s hike from the edge of the River Nile up to the top of Murchison Falls is highly recommended. En route you will see a second set of waterfalls – Uhuru Falls. The striking view of both waterfalls is not visible from the top of Murchison Falls, nor from the boat. This hike can be done in either direction. There is a steep climb for a few minutes, but the Uganda Wildlife Authority has invested in steps and handrails, so I highly recommend the hike. UWA charge a small fee to do the walk to the bottom of the Falls.
There is an inevitability about the constant flow of the River Nile that I find quite overwhelming. I find myself imagining the distance this water has travelled…. click on the image to read my blog all about Murchison Falls
The experience at the Top of the Falls is staggering. Here the Nile, the longest river in the world, is forced through a narrow gap in the rock (only 7 metres wide), before ferociously plunging down 43 metres. You can feel the force of the water beneath the rocks underfoot. You’ll need to SHOUT to make your voice heard above the tons of water thundering beneath you!
Sport fishing for giant Nile Perch is a popular activity in Murchison Falls National Park. Guided walking safaris are also available too.
Budongo Forest Reserve, to the south of the main Park, is an excellent ecotourism site for trekking chimpanzees. Budongo Forest is home to some 600-700 chimpanzees (Pan troglodytes schweinfurthii). The Budongo Forest Conservation Field Station studies and works to conserve the local chimpanzee populations.
The majority of Murchison Falls National Park’s game viewing is on the northern bank of the Nile, where there are a number of hotels and lodges. There’s also a range of accommodation just outside the Park, on the southern bank of the Nile. The advantage of staying outside the Park is that you do not pay Uganda Wildlife Authority’s entry fees until you enter the Park. (The downside is that you have to then wait for the ferry before you start your game drive). The ferry takes just a few minutes to cross the Nile. (A bridge is under construction in 2020).
Mount Elgon National Park
Mount Elgon National Park – need some head space? Go climb Wagagai!
Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda. PHOTO Nicola Swann
Mount Elgon National Park straddles Uganda’s eastern border with Kenya. One Mount Elgon National Park is in Uganda; Kenya has a (separately managed) Mount Elgon National Park on the eastern side of the same caldera.
Kevin – one of our UWA guides – made tea for the porters as we took shelter in a cave on day one of climbing Mount Elgon
Our (obligatory) Uganda Wildlife Authority Ranger guides were fantastic. The porters said very few words to their bazungu clients. God they were tough: they carried our packs all day long, some of them walked barefoot, and huddled around the campfire, sleeping together in a big heap every night.
At 4,321 metres, Mount Elgon is the fourth highest mountain in East Africa. It is the eighth highest peak in Africa. It is the second largest volcanic base in the world. Elgon offers great hiking and trekking, huge caves to explore and a diversity of funky montane flora.
Local boys collecting firewood on Mount Elgon. They raced up and down the hillside as we walked – and slid – tentatively downwards. PHOTO Nicola Swann
Climbing Mount Elgon is one of my favourite Uganda travel experiences. The sore knee and blisters are long forgotten, and I’m ready to scale the summit again. You’re unlikely to see much wildlife while you’re climbing Mt. Elgon, but there is abundant birdlife. In 2013, the Uganda Wildlife Authority team won the annual Big Birding Day event by notching up a record sighting of 400 species in one 24 hour period.
Hiking Mount Elgon is worth it for the scenery alone. We passed through seven different types of vegetation, many I’d never seen before.
The largest tribe around Mount Elgon are the Bagisu
Generally, people overnight at Sipi Falls before climbing Mount Elgon. Indeed, the magnificent 100 metre high Sipi Falls are an adventure in themselves. There are three waterfalls in all. Here you can go mountain biking, hiking, abseiling, rock-climbing and fly fishing.
Need some headspace? Go climb Wagagai! Mount Elgon
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Queen Elizabeth National Park – more bird species than any other African national park!
Uganda Conservation Foundation’s map of Uganda, created to celebrate their tenth anniversary. 10% of sales of these maps is donated to UCF
Queen Elizabeth is the park that the Muzungu knows best, thanks to my volunteering with the Uganda Conservation Foundation.
African Fish Eagles on the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park
Queen Elizabeth National Park has the highest recorded number of birds of any of Uganda’s national parks: a whopping 666 species. That is the highest for any national park in Africa!
A very serious muzungu taking notes on my first field trip with UCF and UWA Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area
Queen Elizabeth is an excellent place to see hippos, elephants and lions. You’ll have to look very carefully to spot the leopard!
Leopard camouflaged in Euphorbia ‘candelabra’ cactus, Queen Elizabeth National Park
One of my favourite activities is the boat cruise along the Kazinga Channel. Read Bird watching on the Kazinga Channel – a 21st century Safari! Look out for the big Nile crocodiles basking in the sun at the water’s edge!
You can also trek chimpanzees in Kyambura Gorge on the edge of the escarpment, at Kichwamba, just outside the National Park.
The southern sector of Queen Elizabeth is known as Ishasha, most famous for its tree-climbing lions. Ishasha’s wide plains give you a wilderness experience. Many people experience Ishasha while driving en route from game drives in Mweya and central Queen Elizabeth down to see the gorillas in Bwindi.
Queen Elizabeth has a fantastic panoramic viewing point – and café – on the Equator, managed by Conservation Through Public Health. The Queen’s Pavillion and Information Centre is also the site of a Uganda Wildlife Authority office. Do drop by if you’re passing!
In and outside the park are a number of crater lakes. Katwe’s crater lakes are famous for seasonal migrations of flamingos.
Harvesting salt from beneath the water of Lake Katwe – not a pleasant job to be knee-deep in salty water all day!
On the edge of Queen Elizabeth National Park are some fantastic community tourism projects. The best established ones have been developed with the support of Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust, UCOTA and Ishasha Community Uplift Group.
There’s a lot more to Uganda than wildlife, and visiting a community tourism project is a quick and easy way to contribute to local communities. Get out of your comfort zone and meet the rural Ugandans!
Did you know… you can see the Rwenzori Mountains and the Blue Mountains of the Congo from Queen Elizabeth National Park?
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park – a gem in an unspoiled corner of Uganda
Approaching Mgahinga and the Virunga volcanoes from Kisoro. From left are: Mount Muhuvura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabinyo
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is Uganda’s smallest National Park, measuring 33.7 km². In a beautiful country of great geographical diversity, this is nonetheless one of the most scenic, unspoiled spots. No-one can fail to be taken in by the majesty of the Virunga volcanoes.
Just over half of the world’s estimated 1000 mountain gorillas are located in Uganda’s far south-west corner (2019 figures). The majority of these are in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to the north of Mgahinga. The first mountain gorilla was sighted by Captain Oscar von Beringe in 1902 in what is now known as Mgahinga Gorilla National Park.
Since Mgahinga borders Rwanda and the DR Congo, the “gorillas without borders” wander freely between the three countries. One particularly engaging habituated gorilla family is resident in Mgahinga. TIP: if you want a more personal encounter with the gorillas, go to Mgahinga. You are unlikely to have many other trackers in your party.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is part of the much larger transboundary Virunga Conservation Area and borders national parks in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The park contains the northern slopes of three volcanoes: Mount Sabinyo (3,634m), Mount Gahinga (3,474m) and Mount Muhuvura (4,127m). Mgahinga is one of the best places in Uganda for hiking and walking.
Three Golden Monkeys in the bamboo forest of Mgahinga Uganda
The volcanoes’ slopes are home to around 75 mammal species, including buffalo, forest elephants and leopard. (The muzungu even saw a wild tortoise on one trip to Mgahinga!) It is one of the few locations in Uganda where you can trek to see the charming Golden Monkeys. It’s a lovely (and underrated) wildlife experience. Birdwatching, especially in Sabinyo Gorge, is highly recommended.
The Batwa Experience – developed and run by Volcanoes Safaris Trust at Mount Gahinga Lodge – gives an insight into traditional forest life
Mgahinga is home to the Batwa Heritage Trail and a number of other small but excellent community tourism initiatives. Mount Gahinga Lodge is the muzungu’s highly recommended base for all activities in Mgahinga. It is out of this world!
The hilly, often wet, marram road leading to Mgahinga can be tricky, but the ride is well worth it.
Did you know… ? A gahinga is a piece of molten lava that has hardened. Gahinga are scattered for many miles and are evidence of volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago. Clearing fields of gahinga is a laborious process; the resulting pile of rocks is fashioned into walls and buildings.
Lake Mburo National Park
Lake Mburo National Park – now home to Rothschild’s Giraffes too!
Lake Mburo National Park is the closest National Park to Kampala and thus a popular weekend break. Lake Mburo is also en route to Bwindi and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks so is a common stopover for people wishing to break up the rather long road journey to see the gorillas.
Lake Mburo is one of the few national parks in Uganda where you can track on foot, with an armed guide. It’s also possible to have a walking safari outside the Park, for a fraction of the price, if you are staying at Rwakobo Rock Lodge, for example. I just loved walking through the zebra!
Lake Mburo is unique in being the only National Park in Uganda where you can enjoy a horseback safari. The Uganda Wildlife Authority allows night games drives in Lake Mburo. UWA runs a boat cruise on the lake for those in search of water birds and hippo!
Dung beetles win the prize for best teamwork! Lake Mburo National Park
Look out for the dung beetles too! These groovy insects crack me up. For the best view, get down on your hands and knees and watch them roll the ball of dung towards you!
Did you know… local legend states that if you see an aardvark, you will live to be 100 years old!
Semliki National Park
Semliki National Park – “half as many species of bird as the entire Congo”
Semliki (or Semuliki) is most popular for its Central African character, its outstanding birdlife and the famous Sempaya Hot Springs.
Semuliki National Park is arguably more Central African than East African, evidenced by the presence of palm trees, bird and animal species that are found nowhere else in Uganda, and Batwa ‘Pygmies’ who once originated from Ituri Forest, one of Africa’s most ancient forests.
The Semliki Valley lies in the Albertine Rift Valley, north-west of the Rwenzori Mountains. The Semliki River carries rainwater from the Rwenzoris to Lake Albert and the River Nile and forms a natural border with the Congo. This park is sometimes referred to as Bwamba Forest.
Sempaya Hot Springs is where local people used to cook their food. The ‘male’ spring measures 12 metres across. The ‘female’ spring boils at over 100°C and spurts bubbling water two metres into the air. It’s reported that the cloud of steam can be seen from as far as 2 km away! Read my steamy adventure at Sempaya Springs.
According to “Important Bird Areas in Africa and associated islands – Uganda” by Achilles Byaruhanga, Pantaleon Kasoma and Derek Pomeroy:
“Semuliki National Park is contiguous with the Democratic Republic of the Congo’s Virunga National Park. Much of the park is covered by forest. Although about 30% of the original forest cover was cleared during the 1970s and early 1980s, the encroachers were evicted and the forest is now slowly regenerating. Semliki’s conservation issues remain numerous: conflict over land-use, agricultural encroachment, poaching and illegal removal of forest products are compounded by high population density.”
The forest has “strong affinities with the Congo-Basin forests.” Semliki Forest contains half as many species of bird as the entire Congo. Seventy species are only known within Uganda from Semliki Forest, including 31 of “the Guinea–Congo Forests biome.” Semliki Forest is outstandingly rich in wildlife and includes 51 species of forest Swallowtail and Charaxes butterflies.
Birds that keen twitchers and ornithologists may see in Semliki and nowhere else in Uganda, include:
Bate’s Nightjar, Black Dwarf Hornbill, Black-casqued Hornbill, Black-collared Lovebird, Black-throated Coucal, Black-winged Oriole, Capuchin Babbler, Congo Serpent Eagle, Crested and Blue-billed Malimbes, Fiery-breasted Bush-shrike, Grey-throated Rail, Icterine Greenbul, Lemon-bellied Crombec, Long-tailed Hawk, Lyre-tailed Honeyguide, Nkulengu Rail, Northern Bearded Scrub Robin, Orange-tufted Sunbird, Pale-fronted Negrofinch, Piping Hornbill, Red-billed Helmet Shrike, Red-billed Hornbill, Red-chested Owlet, Red-rumped Tinkerbird, Rufous-sided Broadbill, Spot-breasted Ibis, Swamp Palm Bulbul, Wattled Hornbill, Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, White-bellied Kingfisher, White-crested Hornbill, White-thighed Hornbill, White-throated Blue Swallow, Yellow-throated Cuckoo, Yellow-throated Nicator, Zenker’s Honeyguide.
For safari game drives, venture to Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve in search of buffalo, forest and savannah elephants, crocodile, warthog, waterbuck and Uganda kob. Pygmy hippo, elusive leopard and shy bushbabies can be seen occasionally.
Batwa dancers perform traditional cultural dance performances for visitors. Batwa cultural interactions can be arranged with the Uganda Wildlife Authority and are highly recommended.
Kidepo Valley National Park
Kidepo Valley National Park – “One of the top 10 parks in Africa”
Set in the remotest northeast corner of Uganda lies Kidepo Valley National Park, said by the few people who have visited to be their “favourite park in Uganda.”
The remote Kidepo Valley is arid savannah and boasts a long list of 77 mammals, according to the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Generally, the best time to see game is when the animals migrate south to access the water in the valley during the long dry season from December to late March. (Climate change means it is harder to predict the rains so it is worth checking the weather projections first).
Kidepo Valley National Park boasts over 475 species of birds and has been named one of the top 10 parks in Africa for its spectacular landscapes and large herds of Buffalo. CNN calls Kidepo “possibly the most picturesque in Africa.” CNN wrote “Why this hidden gem in Uganda is a top destination for 2016.”
Local communities around Kidepo include the Karamojong people, famous for keeping cattle and surviving on their milk and blood. The Karamojong are similar to the Maasai tribe. The Ik are hunter-gatherers.
The easiest way to travel to Kidepo is to fly. For many years, flying was virtually the only safe way to get to Kidepo. Nowadays, road travel from the capital of Kampala is easier and safer and averages 10 hours. If time is on your side, split the journey over two days; you may well need to allow longer during the rainy seasons too. Most of the road journey is fine in a 4×4 vehicle, but the roads on the last couple of hours drive can be tricky during the rains.
Tourism in Kidepo (and Karamoja) is developing slowly with new lodges, campsites and mobile camps coming online in 2022.
Did you know … Kidepo is the only park in Uganda where you will see certain animal species…? These include cheetah, ostrich and the Secretary Bird.
The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness!
How the humble ‘rolex’ celebrates Uganda’s uniqueness!
How do you sum up Uganda, the Pearl of Africa to would-be visitors? And what makes Uganda unique?
I received an interesting email recently: “I have been following your adventures and love what you do. Uganda is a country with incredible soul and you manage to capture it in the most beautiful and charming ways. We are currently working on a campaign that aims to inspire unity amongst Africans and promote Africa as the ultimate travel destination.”
I was therefore asked to “shoot a short video of yourself explaining what makes Uganda such a wonderful country.”
If you’ve read my “50 reasons why I love Uganda” you’ll know that creating a one-minute video to encapsulate all of that would be impossible! I wrote 50 reasons to honour 50 years of Uganda’s independence – that list gets longer day by day.
I was touring Uganda at the time, researching the country’s best lodges for Fodor’s “Complete Guide to the African Safari” guidebook. As the video deadline approached, I was in Buhoma, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
I happened to be travelling with former Urban TV producer Arthur Katabalwa – and what followed was an impromptu piece to camera during a rolex-making demo!
(Fast forward the video to 1 minute 30 seconds to meet bloggers from Uganda!)
The rolex “rolled eggs” (omelette) wrapped in a chapati is becoming infamous now. This simple street food sums up some quintessential Ugandaness:
- Rolex is Uglish (a unique take on the English language which frequently has us all rolling around the floor in stitches!)
- Entrepreneurship: setting up a roadside rolex stall is a popular small business in Uganda.
- The rolex stall is where we stand around chatting as we wait to be served. It’s where we may start our day.
- It’s where many people end a late night – grabbing a cheap bite to eat after a night on the town. If you’re lucky, your boda boda guy will drive right up to the rolex guy’s stall and you won’t even need to get off your boda!
I was honoured to appear alongside well-known Ugandan bloggers Rosebell Kagumire, Ernest Bazanye and Sophie from a Kitchen in Uganda in this video. Incidentally, it was Sophie who helped the rolex go global when it featured on CNN in the article “Delicious African foods you should try.”
Trevor Noah gets his rolex fix (allegedly!) in Wandegeya, Kampala
Do you love reading about African food? Read “Virtually edible – a food tour of Uganda.
Bumming around in Nyabugogo bus park
Waiting for the bus to depart: Nyabugogo bus park, Kigali
I can’t believe my luck. My allocated seat – number 11 – happens to be the window seat near the front of the bus. I couldn’t have chosen a better position. (Luckily it’s not so near the front that I can see danger looming! Jaguar Executive Coaches block off the driver’s cabin from the rest of the passengers, which suits me just fine). I always travel between Rwanda and Uganda’s capital cities with Jaguar, as regular blog readers may recall.
Just don’t sit on the back seat – you will feel every hump and bump! On the bus from Kampala to Kigali
From my window seat, I kill time watching a man cleaning and repairing shoes. The shoeshine man has set up his makeshift shop in one of the bright yellow bus shelters. On a blue painted wooden bench sit eight pairs of clean shoes, their wet tongues hanging out to dry.
A man wearing dark green overalls stops at the shoeshine man’s bus shelter to remove one of his baseball boots. (What is the fashion with cutting the huge hole in the backside of your overalls? Is it general wear and tear? Is it for quick access at the local latrine? I don’t mean to stare at the guy’s bum, but… my eyes are drawn to it by the gaping hole!)
The shoeshine man retrieves a pair of blue flip-flops for the customer. The new arrival removes his threadbare “peephole” socks (to match his “peephole” overalls) and wipes the dirt from between his toes. He folds his socks away into a small ball. He puts the ball of socks in his pocket and leaves his boots with the shoeshine man before he walks off in the temporary footwear.
In the meantime, a smart-looking gentleman removes one of his black office shoes. The shoeshine man picks out a pair of black sandals from his canvas sack and hands them to the new customer. The man who arrived wearing black office shoes rolls up the bottom of his trousers, puts on the black flip-flops and disappears into the Nyabugogo bus park crowd.
His customers temporarily gone – replaced by their shoes – the shoeshine man gets to work, scrubbing another pair of black leather shoes. He scrubs them with a green plastic brush, as he bends over a red plastic basin of water. He looks around for something, and pulls an old T-shirt from his white canvas sack. He dries the shoe thoroughly with the T-shirt.
A tall man in a white baseball cap sits on the yellow plastic bench of the bus shelter, grabs a brush and starts to brush his black boots. No money exchanges hands.
Customer number four is given bright pink plastic sandals to wear. They look rather like a lady’s house slippers to me. The man sits gazing into the distance, chewing on a toothpick. Another guy in long green overalls comes to stand under the bus shelter. He looks over at the Muzungu in the bus and flashes me a big grin. I’m trying not to stare – but he has this huge gaping hole in the back of his overalls too – and he’s rather handsome… from the front and from the back too!
A boy selling newspapers stops in front of the bus shelter. He grabs a brush, gives his shoes a quick scuff and moves on through the crowd.
As people come and go, one thing is constant: the shoeshine man works and works, hardly passing the time of day to chat or to look up from his work. The ‘man in pink sandals’ walks off contentedly – transformed into ‘the man in brown polished brogues’.
A young man walks by, with an empty milk churn hanging off one arm. A paper tissue drops out of his pocket onto the ground. A minute later, a woman in a headscarf and red batik wrap approaches, equipped with a traditional broom and a red plastic shopping bag containing a battered old cardboard box and miscellaneous rubbish. She leans down to pick up an empty crisp packet and the tissue. The shoeshine man hands her some of his rubbish. They do not acknowledge each other. I sense the rhythm of a regular routine. It’s a relaxing way to wile away a few minutes before the bus pulls out of Nyabugogo bus park for Kampala.
Carrying a heavy load – these guys are strong! Selling biscuits, sodas and water to the bus driver in Musanze bus park
Read How to eat like a Rwandan (10 snacks I bet you’ve never tried) inspired by traveling through Musanze bus park.
Hard-boiled eggs, roasted ground nuts (and akabanga chilli oil of course!) on sale in Musanze bus park
Those are some nice-looking rolex! A food vendor jumped on the bus to sell us breakfast
If you enjoy the muzungu’s occasional cross-border bus journeys, read:
‘No hurry in Africa’ – bus from Kampala to Kigali
This guy should have been on the stage: the traveling salesman who literally travels as he travels, walking up and down the aisle of the bus from Kampala to Kigali, working the crowd, proffering samples and chucking out sweets to an enrapt audience of hecklers. How I wished I understood Luganda at that moment!
MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi
Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat. “You snooze, you lose!” As she likes to tell me…
The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya’
We drove from the coach park straight into heavy evening traffic – and the side of a car. After ten minutes of arguing and arm waving, the consensus was that the car was the one-size-fits-all Ugandan term: “stubborn.”
NEXT UP: Bayimba! “An unparalleled feast of music, dance, theatre, film & visual arts”
Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 10th Anniversary: exploring Uganda’s Art Wealth
Diary of a Muzungu is delighted to be one of the media sponsors of the 2017 Bayimba International Festival of the Arts! Scroll down this page to read the week-end’s PACKED programme of events and keep checking Bayimba’s Facebook page and Twitter for more news and updates. Follow the hashtags #Bayimba2017 and #BAYIMBAat10
The 22-24 September 2017 will be a ten-year celebration of Uganda’s multidisciplinary Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. Every third week of September, Kampala comes alive as a vibrant and eventful city when an unparalleled feast of music, dance, theatre, film and visual arts from renowned and upcoming artists are brought to the Uganda National Cultural Centre / Uganda National Theatre.
Celebrating ten years of Bayimba International Festival of the Arts
Looking at today’s arts entertainment scope, Kampala alone boasts of a variety of festivals, it’s a different scenario looking back 9 years later. The birth of Bayimba Festival changed event organizing in Uganda, during an era with few platforms to showcase artistic works. The festival’s 1st edition echoed possibilities and creative empowerment that opened every artist’s way of thinking about creating and not job seeking. At the same time as the country’s live music scene was kicking in, the platform offered live performance workshops to artists, mentored them to apply for other festivals across the globe. Bayimba’s international status caters for diverse audiences and its unique programming consists of exhibitions, contemporary fashion, dance and multiple arts. Slowly, artists adopted a system of organizing their own events to try similar ideas, to grow their own networks and develop business relations in order to sustain themselves.
In the present day, Bayimba continues to serve as an important benchmark for the consumption of the country’s finest arts through its signature initiative “The Bayimba International Festival of the Arts,” an annual three day arts fete that happens every September.
Fast forward to 2017 and this year marks the festival’s 10th anniversary. A glance of what’s on offer has an array of diverse arts, ranging from performance arts set to thrill crowds on the two stages, where the list of performers include: Uganda’s self-styled Ghetto President “Bobi Wine” who makes a second appearance since 2015. Mariam Ndagire will open day one’s recitals for female dancehall outfit Cindy to close. Other performers are: self-claimed King of Mwooyo Maurice Kirya, Percussion Discussion Africa, 90’s gospel group Limit X, Lily Kadima and Coopy bly. Dr. Jose Chameleone is set to headline day two.
Some of the regional and international acts set to join this edition’s main stage are: Kenya’s Nyaititi maestro Makadem, Tanzania’s Jaggwa Music, South Africa’s Dr Bone (returning for a second do after an interrupted piece last year), in addition to South African afro soul Diva Berita, Ugandan-born Danish belle Feridah Rose, a recent winner of The Uganda Music Awards, Best Dispora Act and finally Ethiopia’s former Coke Studio representative Betty G.
The Upper Garden arena of the National Theatre will host Stage 2. The line-up of acts here consist of genres whose collection varies from Hip hop, Reggae, Ragga, Mataali, musical conversations and DJ collaborations. Some of the acts include Zimbabwe’s Hope Masike, here to fuse her soulful ballads with Ugandan percussionist Haka Mukiga. The legendary hip hop duo and brothers Sylvester and Abramz, will incorporate female DJ outfits under the flagship of Femme Electronic, Rwanda’s Components RW, Netherland’s Bilvar Mvulu, Umoja Boys and Kenya’s Mwanase Ahmed together with Bayimba-run initiative Youth and Hip hop workshop beneficiaries Jo’Ge Flame, Kristien Carol & Shirley May and a whole lot more.
Besides the stage presentations, Ekyalo Bayimba will now return as Ekyalo Kasaayi, an artist’s dialogue space whose curation will be led by Liz Kaggwa and Drum Circle (popularly known for their Ngoma Jam sessions).
The auditorium activity slots encompass genres like Kadongo Kamu in the lead of heavy weights Abdu Mulasi, Chance Nalubega, Fred Sebatta and dramatical recitals by Omugave Ndugwa’s Balck Pearl and a lone man comedy show Mukalazi Edwin titled “HipHop Comedy,” and poetry to be presented by Kitara Nation poets, whose anthology recitals will cast college students.
Fashion is a signature activity of the festival and three of Uganda’s celebrated personalities will produce this aspect: Ras Kasozi of SEED FASHION a Skilled Expressive Entrepreneurial Designers show project designed by US Mission Kampala in collaboration with Kas Wear under the mentorship of Ras Kasozi; Gloria Wavamunho, curator of the Kampala Fashion Week and Buyi pheel of Kkoolo designs an entrepreneurial initiative of traditional art.
Over the past editions of Bayimba, Silent disco has proved to be one of the highlight activities, and will again appear on this edition’s menu, in the usual space – the Dance floor. In 2017, there will be film screenings, presented in partnership with the Swedish Embassy. Bikes and Cars is a documentary by Frederik Gertten. The Embassy will also feature a photography exhibition set against the climate change backdrop titled “Facing the Climate” and another exhibition by Switzerland’s reknown photographer Geoff Walker titled “Nodding Disease,” an awareness call about the epidemic and how it’s affecting northern Uganda.
To further celebrate the festival’s multidisciplinary status, a couple of visual artists have been commissioned to present and curate festival spaces. Stacey Gillian, whose sculptural work focuses on misconceptions of gender equality in Uganda, will unveil a 3D art installation. Xenson Znja a multidisciplinary artist and fashion designer will present the main stage backdrop for the second time since 2009, while Fitsjerald Art Studio will present the stage two backdrops.
The festival’s ever-growing participation and appreciation by the general public ranks it among Africa’s top festivals. Bayimba is not only a celebration of music but also a celebration of Ugandan contemporary life, placing Kampala as one of the top East African tourism hubs.
The festival still struggles to rely on local sponsors, but luckily the emergence of many emerging festivals celebrates Bayimba’s vision. Bayimba, has proved to stand the test of time by attracting more and more sponsors over the last five years, contrary to what it was back in 2008 during its inception.
The Bayimba International Festival of the Arts is undoubtedly Uganda’s number one multidisciplinary festival!
Here is the programme for the 2017 Bayimba International Festival of the Arts September 22nd – 24th! FEEL FREE TO SHARE IT 🙂
Friday 22nd // Stage One
19:00 Mariam Ndagire & Band (UG)
20:00 Berita (SA)
21:00 Dr. Bone (SA)
22:00 Jagwa Music (TZ)
23:00 Cindy Sanyu (UG)
Saturday 23rd // Stage One
19:00 Percussion Discussion (UG)
20:00 Lily Kadima (UG)
21:00 Feridah Rose (UG/DE)
22:00 Maurice Kirya (UG)
23:00 Jose Chameleon (UG)
Sunday 24th // Stage One
19:00 Coopy Bly (UG)
20:00 Limit X (UG)
21:00 Betty G (ETH)
22:00 Makadem (KE)
23:00 Bobi Wine (UG)
Friday 22nd // Stage Two
18:30 Mutundwe Matali Group (UG)
20:00 Jacinta (UG)
21:00 Haka Mukiga and Hope Masike (UG/ZIM)
22:00 Umoja Boys (NL) & Mwanase Ahmed (KE)
Saturday 23rd // Stage Two
15:00 Tujaali Performers (UG)
17:00 – 19:00 The Project INYE (GER/COLUMBIA/SA)
19:00 Apio Moro (UG)
20:00 – 21:00 Sylvester & Abramz (UG)
21:00 Components RW (RW)
Sunday 24th // Stage Two
14:00 – 16:00 Femme Electronic
18:00 Famous Friends (UG)
19:00 – 20:00 Jo’Ge Flame, Kristien Carol & Shirley May (Youth & Hip Hop) (UG)
21:00 – 22:00 Boliver Mvulu & Band (NLD/DRC)
Friday 22nd // Auditorium
12:00 – 14:30 BIKES VS CARS (Documentary by Frederik Gertten)
15:00 – 16:30 Kitara Nation School’s Project – Poetry (UG)
19:00 – 20:00 The Veiled Truth (UG/RW)
20:30 – 21:30 Abdu Mulasi (UG)
Saturday 23rd // Auditorium
12:00 – 13:00 “Facing the Climate” – Effects of climate change in Uganda
14:00 – 15:00 Kitara Nation – Poetry (UG)
15:00 – 16:00 Musical Stand Up Comedy – Edwin Mukalazi (UG)
18:00 – 19:00 Dance Performance (UG)
20:00 – 21:00 David Walters (FR)
21:30 – 22:30 Chance Nalubega (UG)
Sunday 24th // Auditorium
12:00 – 14:00 Punishment Island – Film
16:00 – 17:00 Black Pearl (UG)
19:00 – 20:00 Street Dance Force & ABC Fleva (UG)
20:30 – 22:00 Fred Ssebatta (UG)
Friday 22nd // Dance Floor
17:00 – 18:00 KKOOLO Fashion (UG)
Saturday 23rd // Dance Floor
17:00 – 18:00 Gloria Wavamunno (UG)
20:00 – 23:00 – Silent Disco/Headphone Disco
Sunday 24th // Dance Floor
17:00 – 18:00 Ras Kasozi & SEED Uganda (UG)
20:00 – 23:00 – Silent Disco/Headphone Disco
Saturday 23rd // Green Room
14:00 – 16:00 Dance Workshop (UG)
Open Space
Art Installation – Matthieu Tercieux (FR) & Eduardo Souillot (FR)
Photography Exhibition
Facing the Climate – Foyer
Nodding Disease –Theatre Noticeboard
Upper Garden
Ekyaalo Kasaayi & Drum circle Uganda
3D Bayimba Art Installation – Stacey Gillian (UG)
Stage One Backdrop – Xenson (UG)
Stage Two Backdrop – Fitsjerald Art Studio (UG)
All day Art and Craft sales/exhibitions.
Remember to keep checking Bayimba’s Facebook page and Twitter for more news and updates. Follow the hashtags #Bayimba2017 and #BAYIMBAat10
“Vintage is elegance” – classic cars & fashion at the Kampala Sheraton
In case you missed it! Highlights from the 2017 CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show
Do you love the cars of a bygone era? East Africa has a surprisingly diverse auto collection to show you!
The gardens of the Kampala Sheraton were the perfect location for the recent CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show, now in its sixth year. This fixture is growing year on year, with 76 entries in 2017, thanks to the support of the Sheraton, CBA Bank Africa and a team who travel from Nairobi every year to help with the judging. To qualify to enter, competing cars must be dated 1992, or before. I’m no car expert, but I loved this event!
This year I had a chance to meet Bob Dewar, the Director of the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, which is held in Nairobi and is now in its 47th year. (I confess I felt a twinge of homesickness when I heard his English accent fill the Sheraton Gardens and couldn’t wait to go over and say hello to him!) Bob has been key to the success of this event, also known as a Concours d’Elegance (concours means competition). He is in Kampala every year to support the Ugandan team and build the crowd’s interest in the cars on display.
Later in the afternoon, there was a “Vintage is Elegance” themed retro fashion show in the Sheraton Gardens, followed by a live performance by legendary reggae artist Maddox Ssematimba.
Who were the winners of this year’s CBA Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show?
Ronald Walusimbi’s 1967 Toyota Corona beat Patrick Mweheire’s 1965 Mercedes Benz by just two points. Walusimbi won the 2500 cc touring car class in 2016 with a 1974 Mercedes Benz. He was also the highest placed competitor from Uganda.
This year’s Uganda winner is one of eight Ugandans who will be contesting the Africa Concours d’Elegance at the Nairobi Racecourse in September for the classiest event on the Kenya motor sport calendar.
An event with Kenyan connections and Buganda heritage
A team of nine Kenyan Concours enthusiasts participated in the Uganda event. Stephen Warui, who is a regular competitor in the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, was placed sixth overall in his 1959 Volkswagen Beetle. He also won his class.
There’s a strong connection between the Buganda Kingdom and classic cars. The first car in Uganda was a 1906 Albion 16HP engine car, given to Ssekabaka Daudi Chwa (1897-1939) by Sir Hesketh Bell. Kabaka Daudi Chwa owned a fleet of Buicks. Later, Sir Edward Walugembe Mutesa II (1939-1966) owned a number of Rolls Royce cars. One of these is on display at the Uganda Museum.
Next (pit)stop Nairobi!
Leslie Carvell, the overall winner of last year’s Kampala event, is a member of the Uganda contingent who will be taking their cars to the Nairobi Racecourse. She will spend two days driving her 1970 Volkswagen Beetle from Jinja to Nairobi.
The Uganda team will have an impressive collection of crowd-pulling cars. This includes the 1983 Nissan 240RS of Bob Roberts and Katende Mukiibi’s 1971 Ford Escort. Another ‘star car’ is the 1957 Mercedes Benz 190SL roadster of Laban Mawanda which will be a strong contender for a prize in the sports car class.
Twelve members of the Uganda Bikers Association (UBA) will be riding their motorcycles from Kampala to Nairobi to have their machines judged by Concours officials.
Where did the Concours d’Elegance idea start?
For the past 47 years, Kenya’s annual Concours has been organised by the Alfa Romeo Owners Club. The event’s aim is to recognise and reward the owners of well-kept cars and motorcycles, ranging from SUV’s and pick-ups to motorcycles.
To ensure high standards of judging, car entries are limited to seventy and motorcycles limited to forty. Just a few places remain on this year’s entry list. Regulations and entry forms are available from the Bob Dewar Publicity office in Kijabe Street, Nairobi. Alternatively, email / call info@bobpr.com +254 (0)20 3316160 / (0)2229793 / (0)733 732032.
A vintage and classic tour of East Africa – and beyond!
The influx of entries from outside Kenya confirms the status of the Concours as a pan-African event.
Three members of the Vintage Motorcycle Club of South Africa – with bikes of course! – are flying to Nairobi from Johannesburg to compete. There is now a classic car club in Dar es Salaam and several members are keenly interested in driving in a convoy to Nairobi to take part in the Concours.
I’m rather spoiled. I have grown up around classic cars, thanks to my dad. Indeed, my first car was a Morris Minor. (I think the idea was that if I had an old motor, I wouldn’t be able to drive too fast!) I had such fun in that car, it oozed character.
If you’re a ‘petrol head’ – or just appreciate a bit of motoring history – put these two East African motoring events in your calendar!
