I recently flew to the coast – with a few hours stopover in Nairobi. Here are the muzungu’s 17 recommendations on how to fly, where to stay, what to eat, and more!
Our journey to the coast started with an early morning flight from Entebbe to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, Nairobi.
We passed a day sightseeing in Nairobi, Kenya before catching the short flight to Mombasa.
Breakfast time found us on the outdoor terrace of the Marketplace restaurant of Four Points by Sheraton, a high-class hotel in a unique location.
Whether you are a safari goer or a plane spotter, you’ll love staying at Four Points JKIA. (Rooms are soundproofed so you aren’t disturbed by the planes). I could imagine staying here for business meetings between flights. The hotel caters for tourists, walk-in guests and corporates.
It was fun to fit in a game drive before our early evening flight to Mombasa. Nairobi is the only East African city where you can go on a game drive. Here’s my story about my first safari in Nairobi National Park.
Woo hoo! THE COAST is calling me! We took the evening flight from JKIA to Mombasa’s Moi International Airport.
As we entered the gates of Voyager Beach Resort, Nyali Beach, north coast Mombasa, the ascari raised his trumpet to sound a fanfare to welcome us on board. The resort’s fun nautical style is apparent throughout: rooms are known as cabins, floors are decks and the staff dress in naval uniforms. The theme continues as the Voyager ‘docks in a new port’ every day, meaning the resort takes on the menus – and more – of the new destination. One day the Voyager docked in Mexico; another day we docked in Mombasa for Swahili breakfast and dinner. Local fabrics adorn the dining room to complete the look.
Voyager Beach Resort is the ideal location for all-inclusive family holidays on the coast. (It’s the kind of place I LOVED as a kid!) Think kids’ activities, yoga classes, live music, theme nights, family shows, activities for teenagers, watersports centre, gym, three swimming pools, tennis courts and four bars. One night we watched the brilliant Mombasa Roots play live as the ‘Animation Team’ (resort staff dressed in yellow T-shirts with a big letter A on them) got guests moving and a grooving on the dancefloor – (there was some classic Dad Dancing on display too!) Voyager is a mixed crowd of Kenyans and other Africans, Europeans and a few Americans. There’s a super relaxed vibe.
What a way to start our day… gazing at the gorgeous colours of the temple’s painted walls and doors put me in a fantastic mood. Take a closer look and many of the images are rather scary: dire predictions about how thieves, drinkers and meat eaters will be ravaged in hell. (These graphic warnings did not put us off enjoying everything that Mombasa had to offer us however!)
This temple is a cracker. There’s no charge to enter (and if you arrive before 10.30 am they will open the inner sanctum for you). If you admire temples, there is another one further along Haile Selassie Avenue.
Pembe za ndovu is the Swahili name for Mombasa’s famous elephant tusks that form a M shape across Moi Avenue. Selfies here are the classic “look at me, I’m in Mombasa” shot.
According to my driver, Mombasa’s tusks (thin sheets of metal) were erected in 1956 by a European. He got the date right. The European was Princess Margaret of Great Britain who visited that year. Does the M stand for Margaret or for Mombasa?
Be mindful of the traffic while posing for your selfie – Moi Avenue is a busy road.
Mama Ngina Drive is famous for the freshly fried kachri ya muhogo cassava crisps and chilli washed down by madafu coconut water – the perfect combo!
You can pick up tourist souvenirs and trinkets on Mama Ngina Drive. (I doubt you should buy the seashells and many countries won’t allow you to take them through customs). This makes thought-provoking reading: You might want to think twice before buying a seashell souvenir.
I’d avoid the rather dilapidated toilets in the Mama Ngina heritage building if you can. (The blue and white building looks like a lighthouse). The place is clean enough for the cheap entry price but toilet doors don’t seem to lock.
From Mama Ngina Drive, you can watch the non-stop flow of human traffic embarking and disembarking the Likoni Ferry that connects north and south coast Mombasa. As we watched the tens of thousands of people pass by, you might imagine they are running to catch an Underground train in London or the Metro in Paris.
The July weather had us running down the slope in the rain to catch the ferry from Mama Ngina Drive across to Likoni. Pedestrians travel for free; cars, tuk tuks, and heavy lorries pay a small fee. Men on bicycles ship jerry cans; women carry bundles of produce for the market; small trucks are loaded with goats.
As soon as the Likoni Ferry fills up, it sets off for the other side of the creek. The journey lasts just a few minutes but gave us a chance to look upstream to the Port of Mombasa and downstream to the Indian Ocean. The Likoni Ferry may not be on every tourist’s itinerary but it does give you an insight into the everyday lives of the people of Mombasa.
Despite numerous trips to – or should I say through – Mombasa, this was my first time to visit Fort Jesus. Entry fees to Fort Jesus are 400 KES (local price) or 1200 KES (muzungu price!) plus guide fee, which is negotiable.
Our guide Dunga recounted the history of Fort Jesus. In 1498, Vasco de Gama – with a Christian cross emblazoned on his sail – first passed the Kenyan coast en route to India. In 1593, the Portuguese invaded and built Fort Jesus as a military garrison.
Beyond the heavy cannons, the Fort Jesus’ small museum records the history of conquests and sieges by the Portuguese, Arabs, Omanis and British. On display are pottery, old stamp collections and beautiful artefacts from Persia, Oman and China. The Omani Museum showcases modern displays in an ancient building. I wish I’d paid more attention. (Next time I’ll leave my camera behind and just take my notebook…)
The areas open to the public are small enough to make Fort Jesus an easy trip of half a day or less. Visit early morning when it is not too hot. Afterwards, drink some fresh tamarind juice under one of the ancient trees on the main road.
Mombasa is a melting pot of African, Arab and European influences. Nowhere is this more evident than in Fort Jesus.
The Old Town of Mombasa is an interesting mix of narrow streets and Swahili architecture. Hire a local guide to scratch below the surface of this UNESCO-listed city. I adored the antiques and knick-knacks in the Gallery Shop, one of many curio shops. I could have spent all afternoon browsing!
Forodhani’s quiet location is five minutes’ walk from Fort Jesus, next to the Old Port, with a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean and English Point, a small promontory of land on the north coast opposite Fort Jesus.
Beyond its setting, the restaurant is nothing special to look at, some plastic tables and chairs, no table decoration. Since I was in a Muslim city, I decided to try a mutton biryani; it came in a spicy tomato sauce with plenty of meat. I also ate a delicious lamb kofta sausage. According to my Kenyan travel companions, the standards were not as good as before. Service was average and staff attention was minimal but lunch was pretty affordable (and the restaurant worth visiting simply for the view and the cool breeze!)
Across the water is English Point Marina, a state of the art luxury development that looks across to Fort Jesus.
Our sunset cruise along the inland waterways of Mtwapa Creek left from the jetty at La Marina, where our enthusiastic hostess Alice took our dinner orders and organised my preferred tipple of Kenya Cane rum for our cruise boat’s bar. The leisurely cruise was a calming tonic after our day exploring the city of Mombasa. Our small group had the whole creek to ourselves that night. Oh the starlit sky!
The candlelit, open air palm tree terrace at La Marina Restaurant is a romantic setting on the edge of the creek. (I feel relaxed just remembering that night). Dinner was exquisite: calamari in a creamy sauce for me, followed by grilled suli suli Kingfish. Other seafood options were octopus, sushi, baked oysters, king prawns and grilled lobster. I’ve always loved seafood (even more now that I live in land-locked Uganda and visits to the coast are such a treat!)
La Marina Restaurant is a short drive north from Nyali. Call +254 (0)723 223737 for bookings. For the full romance, watch the sun going down aboard a traditional Arab dhow.
During Mombasa’s hot months, there’s no place I’d rather be than here underneath the trees. What a gift Haller Park is!
Haller Park deserves several entries in this list of things to do in Mombasa as there are so many activities you can take part in, from physical exercise to animal feeding to educational tours.
Be there at 11 o’clock or 3 o’clock to take part in the giraffe feeding. Crocodiles also get a little snack every day at 4.40 pm. (They have their main feed of 10 kg of meat just once a month).
There were shrieks from our group as we passed through the reptile enclosure. Many of the snakes had been rescued from local homes. I don’t mind snakes but felt rather nervous when the Puff Adder eyeballed me. That snake has a mean reputation!
During the 1950s, the Haller Park site was a Bamburi Cement quarry. Thanks to the vision of a certain Dr Haller, the barren quarry site was reclaimed for the environment: it is now a popular location for biking and running the nature trails, and school trips, thanks to Lafarge Eco Systems (a subsidiary of Bamburi Cement).
Haller Park opened to the public in 1984. The transformation from barren site to lush woodland is phenomenal and gives me hope for the future.
Unfortunately we didn’t get a chance to meet Owen the hippo and Mzee, his giant tortoise buddy! When Owen was stranded after a tsunami, he was rescued by Kenyan villagers. To everyone’s amazement, the orphan hippo and Mzee, a 130-yr-old tortoise, became inseparable. Photos of their friendship made them worldwide celebrities. Their friendship has even spawned a Broadway musical!
I never knew starfish came in so many colours! Orange, red, blue, brown and grey were clearly visible as our boat motored along the coast. But note: don’t pick up the starfish. Pulling them out of the water can kill them, even if they are put back! And boat operators turn a blind eye to this…
The highlight of our afternoon was anchoring in shallow water and walking to an exposed sandy ledge of the reef to explore the crevices of the rock pools for sea urchins, starfish and shellfish.
Kenya Wildlife Service manages the country’s protected areas. In addition to the cost of the boat ride, you’ll need to pay the Mombasa Marine National Park entry fee if you want to snorkel.
Snorkeling, scuba-diving lessons, big-game fishing, windsurfing and canoeing and dhow safaris can all be arranged from Voyager Resort.
Next stop Tapas Cielo lounge bar for a Johnnie Walker /DJ night. Eddy Kenzo and Sauti Sol videos made a perfect night of it at Anuba Lounge.
I wish I’d stayed longer in Nyali. I get the feeling that Mombasans are very like Ugandans – they’re easy going and love to party!
We were so caught up in sightseeing in Mombasa, I’m not sure I did the Voyager’s facilities justice. It’s the perfect base for family holidays, with an extensive programme of activities, sports, entertainment, shows and tours for all ages. However, research for this blog forced me to sample the bars – at least!
My favourite was the Lookout Bar (above the beach) and the small Harbour Bar near the restaurant. Go find Raymond – he’s an award-winning cocktail maker!
Voyager caters to many tastes: European, Indian, African and more. While most meals are served buffet-style in the main restaurant, Voyager’s Minestrone Restaurant has an Italian à la carte menu (included in the all-inclusive price).
The Smugglers’ Cove restaurant is hidden in a coral cave! The food was superb (discounted for Voyager residents).
The balcony of my deluxe room looked onto gardens of palm trees, just 50 metres from the beach. It was perfect. The room had aircon, TV (did I even switch it on?), fridge, a good size safe, a powerful shower and plenty of complimentary toiletries. Voyager has 234 cabins, of various styles, each with its own balcony.
Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Clare Park, a British tourist who visited Uganda with her family recently. She writes “We are all keen nature and animal lovers and have been to Africa several times before, but never Uganda. We all had a truly, truly wonderful time! Every part of our Uganda holiday was so special. We relive it often through the photos and videos and will absolutely return.”
Clare writes:
I have always wanted to see chimps in their natural environment. I studied clinical language sciences at uni. This included linguistics and the study of chimp versus human communication. It was fascinating. I love all animals, but particularly primates, and would one day like to work with them – ideally studying their non-verbal language.
We recently had the privilege of spending two weeks with my cousin’s cousin Malcolm Wilson who lived in Uganda for 17 years and now lives in South Africa. Malcolm visits Uganda regularly to guide bird (and bird ringing) trips. Kibale Forest was on the circuit he had planned for us to share the wonders of this beautiful country. We stayed with a friend of his who has studied chimps for many years: Julia has a beautiful home overlooking Kibale Forest. It’s a very special place to stay.
The Park family used Sunbird Hill as their base while they were chimp tracking in Kibale Forest. Clare is seated top left. Expert ornithologist and bird ringer / birder Malcolm is seated bottom left.
We were all overwhelmed when we arrived at the stunning location. Sunbird Hill – where Julia has built her family home – is now offering B and B. We were greeted so warmly and, as the sun was setting, were offered gin and tonic – but no ordinary gin – Uganda Waragi gin in a sachet! Even better, there was ice and lemon to accompany the gin – things which we hadn’t been able to get since arriving in Uganda and staying at various other lodges. It was a perfect drink in a perfect location to start our chimp trekking experience.
A pair of Chimpanzee feet, high in the canopy of a fig tree. This photo was taken from Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
The following day my husband Mike, daughters Amy (22) and Bea (17) and son Ed (19) set off to do our much longed-for chimp trekking. Our driver took us to the Uganda Wildlife Authority office 3 km from Sunbird Hill to register for our chimp trekking before setting off. Here we were assigned a ranger who had years of experience with the chimpanzees. The rangers know this chimp community of Kibale Forest intimately, having studied them closely and worked to habituate some of the chimpanzees. Habituation means that when tourists enter Kibale Forest, chimps see them as neutral and continue about their daily lives as if no-one is watching.
After a briefing from our guide about “the do’s and don’ts of chimp trekking” we soon entered Kibale Forest’s tall tree canopy and rich vegetation. Ahead, rangers communicate the location of where the chimps are to be found. We soon located an adolescent female chimp of around 13 years old. She was feeding from a tree when we first saw her, eating some berries. We stood and looked up at her high on a branch enjoying her feast. She seemed unperturbed by us looking on. She then climbed down the tree and set off on the ground at quite a pace. Our ranger indicated for us to follow her, keeping a distance behind her of approximately eight metres. She would occasionally stop, have a look around, perhaps feed on something and then set off again. We had the privilege of her allowing us to follow her on the ground for about forty minutes. At one point she stopped and tore a piece of bark from a tree and started to lick it for fluid and scratch it to remove the bugs. She then put it on her shoulders to carry and set off again. The bark fell off after a few paces.
When you see a chimpanzee with a pink and swollen rear, it indicates she is in season
We were later informed by Julia, the resident chimp expert at Sunbird Hill, that this was a very unusual thing to observe. In her years of studying chimps, Julia had never seen a chimp attempt to carry anything on their shoulders. She was quite excited by what we had seen. We even had video footage to show her.
The female teenage chimp then climbed high into a tree and started feeding on fruits again. We were joined by several other groups of trekkers at this point and it did not seem right to stay any longer, so we headed back to base.
Even though it is usual to see large groups of chimps when trekking in Kibale Forest, the intimacy of being able to follow one chimp at proximity and to observe her going about her daily routine was very special. We learnt a lot about how she moved, fed, climbed, rested, broke wood and carried it. It was interesting to observe her character and note that she wasn’t seeking the company of other chimps. Julia commented that it is quite rare to see a chimp of this age on her own for such a lengthy period of time – and that she let us follow her. We all concluded that perhaps this female chimp had just needed some ‘time out’ on her own!
[A very short clip!]
My family were all very humbled by the time we spent observing her and we took many photos and videos. Nothing quite captures the specialness of seeing a chimpanzee in their natural environment.
The following day I decided I would return and do another trek: I needed another ‘ fix’ of chimps. One morning wasn’t enough for me, given my fascination with them.
After another early morning briefing, I was assigned a group with five other trekkers. Our ranger Moses was informed early on that there was a community of chimps nearby. We set off at a pace.
We approached a slight clearing in which sat several magnificent tall trees with their branches sprawling out horizontally, forming a ‘climbing frame’ for the chimps. Here the screeching of these fascinating creatures started and just didn’t stop. Chimps charged through the undergrowth, banging their feet on tree stumps to create a sound like a drum. Their mouths were open wide, baring their teeth as their vocal sounds rose in a crescendo. There were chimps everywhere – high in the canopy, on the ground, still, active, noisy, quiet – so many, I lost count. Old, young, big, small, feeding, playing, grooming, fighting. The behaviours I observed in that hour of observation are almost indescribable. Every few seconds there was a new noise to turn to, a rustle in the vegetation high or low, the sounds of animals swinging between trees and often dropping from height in pursuit of another chimp, either in play or threat. I took so many photos trying to capture the chaos of what I was witnessing; recordings of their non-verbal behaviour and audio recordings of their vocal communication.
Three chimpanzees grooming. Kibale Forest, western Uganda
We happened across three mature male chimps, sitting one behind each other on a broken branch on the ground. They all sat facing in one direction, the front one turning to the one behind sporadically to groom him. We were less than a few metres away. It was mesmerising watching them.
Two chimpanzees grooming. Kibale Forest, western Uganda
Two younger male chimps sat on the ground, taking it in turns to groom each other, working methodically from the head to the back to the legs. There seemed to be an unspoken rule of how long they groomed before turning around and letting the other groom in return. The non-verbal communication was fascinating to observe.
Another chimp lay on his back on some leaves to rest just in front of us. He rolled onto his side after a big yawn and lay there as if to say, ‘now that is more comfortable.’ It seemed so human.
After the hour of observation (which passed in a flash) we headed back to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s chimp trekking base office at Kanyanchu. Our whole group were somewhat overwhelmed and therefore quiet. Words couldn’t express what we had shared. I had several moments during the hour when my emotions got the better of me; I just welled up with joy at what we were experiencing. It was all just too much, in the most beautiful of ways.
As we headed back to base we had to cross the road which has recently been upgraded and tarmacked for improved access to the tourist area of Kibale Forest. Whilst it was probably needed at a practical level, there were grave concerns around how the increased volume and speed of traffic would impact the safety of the chimp communities. As we reached the tarmac we observed a community of chimps crossing the road – oblivious to the danger of the traffic. Fortunately, the rangers were there to intervene and stop the buses, coaches and other vehicles hurtling around the blind corner just as the entire community crossed: young and old, a baby on a mum’s back. We all held our breath as we watched them safely reach the other side of the road where the forest continued. It was a poignant end to an overwhelming experience and one couldn’t help wondering if modernising the road so traffic could pass through at greater speeds was in fact a big mistake. Time will tell – but there seemed to be much concern, understandably from the rangers.
Once back at UWA’s chimp trekking office, I said farewell to my group members and UWA guide Moses. He had observed how emotional I had been several times and realised just how very special our trek had been. The rangers said I would always be welcome there if I ever wanted to pursue my dream of watching and analysing non-verbal chimp communication, a life-long dream.
One day I will be back in Kibale Forest.
There was the option to do a further day in which you join a habituation group and go out with the rangers and researchers to continue the habituation of other chimp communities. Sadly, my family and I had to head off the next day.
Back at Sunbird Hill, my family were keen to hear how I had got on. At first, I felt reluctant to share just how different that morning’s chimp trekking had been compared to the day before. However, hand on heart, I can’t say one experience was better than the other. They were both totally unique. Observing the female chimp had been so intimate as we got to learn her movements and expressions. The second morning was such a contrast – I lost count of the number of chimps we saw – the noise, the chaos, the movements, the high energy of these fabulous creatures as they went about their everyday socialising. However, I was completely mentally exhausted after the second morning and, once I got back to our treehouse-style hut at Sunbird Hill, I found myself crying uncontrollably at the sheer wonder of what I had seen in the last 24 hours. It was everything – and way more than I could ever have imagined. It is quite impossible to translate the joy and happiness I experienced watching these highly intelligent and fascinating creatures. They are so close to us humans it is quite remarkable – and a little bit ‘Planet of the Apes’!
I think about Kibale Forest often and I know I will go back in some capacity to top up this beautiful lifetime experience.
The muzungu: Thanks Clare for sharing your fantastic experience! We look forward to seeing you again very soon 🙂
After a month of living in the village on posho (maize porridge) and beans, little persuasion was needed to travel a day and a half to taste the creations of sixteen chefs and to enjoy the Kigali Marriott Hotel’s phenomenal breakfast!
How could I resist the lure of food (that I didn’t have to prepare), a stay in a top international hotel, the chance to learn more about hospitality (my first jobs were in hotels) and to network with tourism colleagues and media from across East Africa?
Most importantly though, I was delighted to be invited to support the work of Gorilla Highlands (the brains behind the Silverchef Competition), creating positive stories about this ridiculously beautiful corner of the world.
And so it was that I found myself traveling from my current home near Fort Portal to Kigali: by boda boda, matatu taxi, bus, private hire car, another matatu, bus (Jaguar Executive Coaches, comme d’habitude) and finally a moto (the Rwandese word for motorbike or boda boda) from Nyabugogo bus park in downtown Kigali.
What is the Silverchef Competition?
“In a spirit of friendly co-operation” sixteen chefs representing sixteen establishments from Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo congregated at the Kigali Marriott Hotel for Gorilla Highlands’ Silverchef Competition 2018.
Two shifts of eight chefs took over the four kitchens of the Marriott Hotel to prepare their dishes. Behind the scenes, the judges watched the chefs’ preparations. Each chef had the same ingredients (points were deducted for anyone who did not stick closely to the rules!) Chefs were judged not only for the taste of their food but the chefs’ presentation skills, their creativity and their time management skills.
Talking about the competition, Miha Logar of Gorilla Highlands said “It’s good for chefs to get away from their own environment once in a while. They often lead a demanding lifestyle, far away from their family. We believe that events like this build a chef’s self-confidence. Having the chance to travel is a bit of an adventure, whether visiting a new country or a different part of their own country.”
Not only was 2018 memorable for being Silverchef’s inaugural event in Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo also joined the competition for the very first time. (Guess which lucky travel blogger has an invitation to Goma?)
“It’s been a big decision to work in the DRC and I’d like to thank all the stakeholders in the region who have given their input, suggestions and thoughts on this subject.” Will next year’s Silverchef find us in the DRC? We wait and see.
Previous editions of Silverchef have been held in Uganda: in Kisoro, Kabale and Lake Bunyonyi.
What is travel without good food?
Although at first glance the point of the Silverchef Competition is to win the prized silver chef’s hat, the event is part of a bigger strategic initiative. At the heart of the Gorilla Highlands’ philosophy is the belief that tourism can be a major tool for development. Tourism creates much-needed jobs and opportunities to train. With little local industry or manufacturing, tourism is the best bet for bringing revenue. Financial investment is important, but training, opportunity, innovation and self-confidence are also crucial.
Chefs bring their supporters and managers to Silverchef. Some hotel managers travel to the event looking for new staff. For lodge staff, tour operators and the wider tourism industry, the weekend of the annual Gorilla Highlands Silverchef Competition is a chance to interact, network and learn – about cooking, regional tourism and hospitality, and what tourism in the region needs to develop and flourish.
This year’s Silverchef judges were (from left): last year’s Silverchef winner Allan Mukasa, Sylvia Kalembe of Uganda Tourism Board, Chief Judge Professor Wolfgang Thome, Yves K. Ngenzi of Rwanda Development Board and Andre Ngoja-Ngoja from HORECA the Association for Hoteliers, Restaurants and Cafes in North Lake Kivu, DRC. The incomparable compere was Nash Barrett, Co-Founder SafeMotos.
What is Gorilla Highlands?
Many tourists come to this area of East Africa because of the gorillas, but there is so much more to explore in the region: hiking volcanoes, staying the night in a community homestay, experiencing one of the region’s cultures and eating good food of course!
According to Miha, “in our book, all the competing chefs are winners. They’ve committed to taking part in the competition and we are grateful for that.” That said, here’s the list of Quality Cooking Certificate winners:
The best Rwandan chef also received a prize from Rwanda Development Board: a trip to Volcanoes National Park to track the gorillas! The winning chef from Uganda won a trip to track the gorillas in Uganda, courtesy of the Uganda Tourism Board and Uganda Wildlife Authority.
Visit the Gorilla Highlands web site to learn more about travel in southwestern Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo.
A weekend by an open fireplace at The Peak Spot Lodge “Jewel of the Virunga” a few minutes’ drive from the start of Rwanda’s Mountain Gorilla tracking
TIP: get up early to view the morning mist swirling around the volcanoes in the distance!
I recently spent two nights at The Peak Spot Lodge near Kinigi while researching an ecotourism guide to gorilla tracking. The Peak Spot is a cosy independently-owned lodge ideally located for travellers going gorilla tracking in Rwanda. It’s also a lovely place to just chill out.
This lodge is slightly off the beaten track, but absolutely worth it! You will not hear a vehicle the whole time you’re there.
The last few kilometres to The Peak Spot Lodge are on dirt roads, where progress is slow enough to smile and wave back at the villagers shouting “hello friend”
An invigorating start to the day: sunshine, fresh air and the smell of Eucalyptus
Every morning I travelled by moto (boda boda) motorbike taxi from The Peak Spot to the start of the gorilla tracking at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters in Kinigi. Here I mingled with tourists, watched the excellent Intore traditional dancers and interviewed some of the rangers who monitor, track, protect – and love – Rwanda’s mountain gorillas.
The drive by motorbike from The Peak Spot to Kinigi took 25 exhilarating minutes door-to-door. I was filming much of the way, enjoying incredible scenery and views of traditional village life. Most of the drive is on an excellent tarmac road that winds along to Kinigi itself.
It can be rather chilly in the mountains (especially for those of us who are used to the year-round warmth of Kampala!) but the lodge staff lit an open fire for us every time we sat down to eat or drink. The all-rounder staff member Alexis always knew when to put another log on the fire or come and refill our drinks. (It’s hard work playing Scrabble and listening to rock music you know!) He was also there to fill up our hot water bottles and tuck them under the bed covers for us. (Each bedroom also has a heater and a hot shower of course).
The lure of an open fire
“I hate Scrabble” I moaned until my competitive streak kicked in! A whole weekend marathon of Scrabble followed
Dinner was a simple but filling three-course meal of soup, main course and dessert. The Peak Spot has a well-stocked bar. We felt right at home when we noticed the bar stocked our favourite tipples (Uganda Waragi and Bond 7 respectively) but don’t forget to try a local beer too! Mutzig goes down a treat.
A close encounter with a member of Rwanda’s Susa family. Click on the image to link through to my “Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla tracking”
Everyone who goes gorilla tracking in Rwanda goes home with a certificate. Bragging rights, yay! My hour with the Susa gorilla family was action-packed
Between daydreams of gorillas and chatting around the fireplace at The Peak Spot, we ran out of time to taste banana wine or go on the community walk to the neighbouring village. I did enjoy walking around the lodge gardens however. The recycled Heineken beer bottle borders to the paths gave an unusual touch to the garden’s design.
I’ve been lucky enough to stay in a wide variety of lodges across East Africa. “Planes, trains and automobiles,” I’ve done the lot. On this occasion, we travelled by public transport between Kampala and Kinigi, and it could not have been easier.
Leaving The Peak Spot, we rode motos directly to Musanze (for 2,000 Rwandese francs) to catch a coaster to Kigali (for 1,750 Rwandese francs). From Nyabugogo bus park in central Kigali, we jumped on the Jaguar overnight coach back to the Pearl of Africa.
The Peak Spot “Jewel of the Virunga” is a great base for gorilla tracking, hiking and more
The Peak Spot opened two years ago and currently has one family cottage and three rooms, from $75/night. Two more cottages are being built. This rate includes breakfast lunch and dinner and a sauna. Tents are also available for $20 per person per night (to sleep two or four people).
The lodge has Wi-Fi and a small shop that sells some very cool T-shirts. The lodge even has a sauna! (I will have to come back to try that out). There are also plans to hire a masseur.
Thanks very much to Habib, Alexis, Benon (and all the behind-the-scenes staff that I did not meet). They gave lots of useful advice on the costs of public transport, the weather, what to wear, where to change money, called motos every time we needed one, and more. If you’re looking for an authentic Rwandese experience, at an affordable rate, look no further.
You can contact The Peak Spot via their web site or call +250 788441652. Please say the muzungu sent you 😉
The chimpanzees of Kibale Forest have been screeching loudly for the past two weeks. I’ve stayed here at Sunbird Hill many times, but never have I heard them so close or so often.
On the drive back from Fort Portal yesterday, Julia stopped the car along the track to her land to enquire what John (in his bright yellow National Resistance Movement T-shirt) was working on. “I’m looking at the chimpanzees,” he said. And there they were, half a dozen of them, high in a medium size fig tree on the boundary of Kibale Forest.
A chimpanzee sits high in a tree in Kibale Forest bordering Sunbird Hill
Chimpanzee climbing down a fig tree, on the edge of Kibale Forest at Sunbird Hill
Today we venture to the forest edge, tracing the sound of the primates. “One of the females may be in oestrus,” says primatologist Julia, trying to explain the exuberant din.
On our walk, we come across a pile of fresh dung – full of industrious dung beetles. Where did the dung come from? We do not find any footprints – either elephant or buffalo – only a broken Albizzia branch. Elephants are known to love Albizzia trees; Julia has seen the elephants in the very same spot before.
We last saw elephants just five minutes’ drive from here. Julia filmed some Forest Elephants crossing the Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road that passes through Kibale Forest. You can see a short clip on the Sunbird Hill Facebook page below.
I saw a Forest Elephant last week too – from the back of a matatu taxi; the Ugandan passengers (particularly the toddler in front of me) were in awe!
Back at Sunbird Hill, we inspect the freshly-cut trails on our walk back towards the Birders’ Lounge. Flowers, flowers, everywhere: we’ve loved the Aloe flower; the Kagelia’s dark red flowers are striking, even beneath the dark canopy. The vantage point from Julia’s towering treehouse office reveals bright red Jatropha flowers that are not visible from the ground. From here, we have watched the Black-crowned Waxbills weave a dainty nest in the mango tree. The entrance is a narrow tunnel, below the nest itself.
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher incubating eggs on its nest at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest
I’ve never seen so many nesting birds as we see now. The Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher has flown the nest, as has the African Blue Flycatcher. One morning after a heavy storm, Dillon noticed an Olive-bellied Sunbird chick and its nest on the ground. Julia scooped them up (away from the jaws of three dogs and a cat!) and moved them into a safer position. The chick survived. After a week, it was gone… we hope it survived.
It’s quarter to seven in the evening. In the distance I hear the Yellow-spotted Barbet (making a whirring noise, like a woodpecker). Closer by is Easter. We enjoyed his brother Christmas.
I wouldn’t annoy Easter the turkey!
The remaining turkey has had a reprieve. The family has become used to his comical gobbling noises. Easter has been renamed Easter 2019! No-one is in a rush to lose his friendly tones (although 7-year-old Dillon is petrified of this massive bird with an even bigger attitude!)
Today we have had a reprieve from the season’s thunderstorms and drizzle.
April sunset from Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
After Saturday morning’s heavy rain, we had a fiercely hot few hours of sunshine. Stepping onto the veranda at dusk was like walking into a filmset: my friends sat bathed in orange and pink light, in front of a ravishing backdrop of cotton wool cloud sky and the dark outline of the forest. The magical ambience was enhanced by the flickering of a thousand wings, a flight (can I call them that?) of enswa (white ants). They did not fly but floated, rising upwards from the long green grass (which clearly hid a termite mound!) I opened my eyes wide to take in every second of it.
The romance of the moment was short-lived as we batted away insect after insect, picked enswa from inside our clothes, our drinks and everywhere else!
Thankfully the enswa invasion was short-lived. The next day, the veranda – and even my mattress – was a sea of wings. The ants themselves had vanished.
Nights on the forest edge can be very dark. Last night Venus shone brightly above Kibale Forest.
Look who made it to the finishing point! Kabaka’s Birthday Run 2015
It seems every week there is a ‘marathon’, but the Kabaka’s Birthday Run is a run with a difference. Not only does the run celebrate the birthday of Kabaka Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II, it takes runners (and walkers!) down historical routes of the city. We start at the Lubiri Palace, run the Royal Mile down Kabaka Anjagala and on towards Bulange. The circuit winds up back at the Lubiri.
The fifth edition of the Kabaka’s Birthday Run is scheduled to take place on Sunday, April 8th and will be flagged off by Kabaka Mutebi II.
Kabaka Ronald Muwenda Mutebi II. Official photo Buganda Kingdom
You can register for 5 km, 10 km and 25 km. Kids can run 5 km (only).
10k UGX.
Bulange, Mengo. CBS offices, Mengo. Muganzilwaa, Katwe.
Airtel shops: Shoprite Ben Kiwanuka. The Plaza (opposite KCB Kampala Road). New taxi park. Senana Supermarket opposite Watoto Church along Buganda Road.
You can also register on Airtel mobile money by calling *185# Choose option 5 (payments) and then option 5 (Kabaka Run) and proceed with payment.
25 km runners leave at 7 am, 10 km runners at 7.10 am and 5 km runners at 7.20 am.
Kabaka’s Birthday Run, Kampala. Route map 2018
Every year, the Kabaka fundraises for a good cause. This year contributions will go to fight Sickle Cell, a condition I’ve come to learn a little more about recently following the death of Joel B. Ntwatwa AKA @Nevender, a brilliant writer and poet and a leading member of Uganda’s blogging community. We learned he had endured an unbelievable amount of pain throughout his lifetime. My friend, a medical doctor, tells me sickle cell disease is one of the most painful conditions to live with. Read a poem Joel wrote about a sickle cell crisis.
Joel Benjamin Nevender. Photo Writivism Literary Initiative
They’ll carry me. Poem by Nevender Joel B. Ntwatwa, who passed away early 2018. Joel lived with sickle cell #RIPNevender
Proceeds from the 2017 Kabaka’s Birthday Run were used to purchase more than 60,000 sickle cell testing kits. These have been handed over to the Uganda National Health Laboratory Services to enable free testing for over 120,000 people.
“In line with the three-year theme announced last year, proceeds from this run will also be directed towards fighting the sickle cell disease in Uganda – to educate Ugandans about sickle cells, enable proper treatment of patients and fund research.”
Read a 2017 blog by Joel On Social Media, Sickle Cell and Running in Buganda.
#RIPNevender. Members of the Ugandan blogging community at Joel’s burial, wearing T-shirts featuring his distinctive logo
Uber Uganda will be the official transport to the Kabaka’s Run and have contributed 5 million Uganda shillings towards this year’s cause, the fight against sickle cell anaemia.
Aaron Tindie, country manager for Uber Uganda, hands a cheque to the Katikkiro of Buganda, Peter Mayiga
The Katikkiro (or Prime Minister) of Buganda Kingdom, Peter Mayiga, is a runner too.
For many years, Kampala Hash House Harriers have been celebrating the Kabaka’s birthday with a run from Bulange. Last year I had the honour of meeting the Katikkiro Peter Mayiga as he flagged off our run
Get there early as there will be big crowds coming from all directions. Sections of the Lubiri are open for you to park your car, but learn from my experience and leave the car at home. (You may have to wait an hour to get a parking spot. After the run, you may find your car blocked; then you’ll have to wait in line again to exit onto the main road again).
Leave the car at home. Take an Uber, ideally with friends. Make sure your phone is charged so you can call an Uber when you want to come home too.
First-time riders can apply the promotional code KABAKAWANGE for a fare discount of up to 10k UGX.
Open the Uber app
Go to the Menu (three horizontal bars in top left corner)
Select payment
Add promo/gift code KABAKAWANGE
You don’t have to run, you can even walk the route while you take in a bit of history – and support a good cause in the process.
Regular blog readers will know that “bampita Nagawa, ndi Muganda.” (My Ugandan name is Nagawa and I’m from the same tribe as the Kabaka). Here’s a story about me and my totem, the Red-tailed Monkey.
Now get those running shoes on!
A previous visit to the Lubiri. Royal weddings bring out some colourful characters!
After a few days visiting community tourism projects in Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Julia and I drive north through the crater lakes of Fort Portal and to the edge of Kibale Forest. We swap notes about places we want to visit. We’re usually rushing to one destination, or rushing back to Kampala, but in an ideal world, we’d travel at a more leisurely pace.
Camera required! Admire the eight volcanic Virunga peaks reflected in the lake’s surface as you are paddled across the lake. Combine this with a trip to Kisoro, a hike with the Gorilla Highlands project and a stay at Chameleon Hill.
Strictly speaking, tea is an invasive species and the plantations were created at the expense of ancient woodlands, yet the bright green young tips of tea leaves remain alluring to this Brit (a committed tea-drinker!)
Mabira Forest Canopy Super Skyway is over 200 metres of canopy zip-lines through the tops of 40 metre high trees and across the River Musamya.
Go for the day or stay at Griffin Falls Eco Campsite, Mabira. Here you can see Red Tailed Monkeys and shy Grey Cheeked Mangabeys (if you’re lucky). You can also walk or hire mountain bikes to go on the trails through the Forest. Tell Hussein the muzungu sent you 🙂
Viewing Uganda’s solar eclipse in Pokwero / Pakwach took my breath away. It was spell-binding.
Imagine if you had experienced an eclipse without expecting it? The story of Uganda’s 15th century eclipse at Biharwe changed the boundaries of traditional kingdoms.
Stretch your legs on the long drive west: take twenty minutes to climb Biharwe Hill and admire the monument (sited directly opposite Igongo).
TIP: if you’re stopping for lunch, eat the buffet. If you order from the menu, you may have a very LONG wait … we did.
If you’re a coffee drinker like me, you’ll LOVE Gorilla Conservation Coffee and their brilliant cafe in Entebbe! Do visit the cafe if you’re driving to Entebbe Airport.
Pictured on my T-shirt is Kanyonyi (RIP), the legendary silverback gorilla from the Mubare family. The coffee blend is named after him. Keep his memory alive by visiting the Gorilla Conservation Cafe or buying coffee at numerous outlets across Uganda or online. Gorilla Conservation Coffee is a social enterprise that buys the coffee of farmers – who live adjacent to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – at a premium price. Helping farmers protects the forests and thus the mountain gorillas. Profits from the sale of Gorilla Conservation Coffee support the ground-breaking work of Conservation Through Public Health.
*Gorilla Conservation Cafe has a new location* on Plot 13 Portal Road, Entebbe. Call +256 752 330139. Here you can order a fresh coffee or buy coffee beans to drink at home (a great gift too!)
The crater lakes of Fort Portal are gorgeous.
In this same region are Amabere Ga Nyina Mwiru Caves. (Caves always sound exciting to me!)
Amabere Ga Nyina Mwiru means “the breasts of Nyina Mwiru.” The ‘breasts’ are in fact stalactites made of calcium carbonate. The white-coloured water that drips off thus called “breast milk” by the local Toro people.
Local folklore has a rather gory interpretation of the cave’s name. Enough said on that point (or two points, should I say) …
Thanks to Bosco and Keseloni for making sure I saw my first Narina Trogon on my last stay at the splendid Ishasha Wilderness Camp. What a fabulous bird!
(Do you love birds like I do? Read some of my birding stories here).
You don’t need to track the Mountain Gorillas to love Bwindi’s forest and birdlife. The first time I saw Bwindi’s rainforest, I thought I was going to cry; the place is pure magic. Did you know… Bwindi was voted no. 1 in Travel African magazine’s list of top 10 birdwatching sites?
The plan: overnight at Buhoma Lodge – or the recently refurbished Bwindi Lodge for a real treat – then take the day-long hike across Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to Nkuringo to the south.
In 2013, Robert Brierley hosted us at Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge from where we walked the 17 km Ivy River trail. The lodge is set high on Nteko Ridge between the Virunga volcanoes and the breath-takingly beautiful Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
The Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary tour is entertaining and educational for the whole family. Relaxing, bird watching, crossing the Equator by boat and looking out for the 50,000 fruit bats that fly overhead every evening are other unforgettable Ngamba experiences. All trips must be booked in advance. A stay at Ngamba’s luxury tented camp is highly recommended too.
Unlike the day tour – in which you are separated from the chimpanzees by a high platform and an electric fence – you can have a far more intimate experience with the chimpanzees, if you sign up for the volunteering programme. This takes the Ngamba experience to a whole new level.
Whether it’s cleaning the cages where the chimps come to sleep at night, preparing food, collecting behavioural data, assisting in medical procedures, typing up ‘chimp diaries’, selling merchandise in the Ngamba Island shop or helping maintain the island’s facilities, volunteers on week (or longer programmes) are active members of Ngamba’s dedicated family. You have to meet the Ngamba Island team to appreciate how dedicated they are to each individual chimp…!
Fancy a night in the wild but without the travel to the National Parks? Stay in the bandas at UWEC, the Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (once known as Entebbe Zoo). You will think you are in the bush – and may wake up to the sounds of chimpanzees, monkeys – or even a lion!
You can take part in some very cool, interactive experiences at UWEC, such as feeding the animals and walking with Hamukungu Charles, the young elephant (a lot bigger than he was in this photo of six years ago!) UWEC’s Behind-the-Scenes experiences need to be booked in advance. UWEC is open daily 8.30 am – 6.30 pm. Call +256 (0)414 320520 for more information.
Horseback safaris along the northern bank of the River Nile outside Jinja can be for a few hours or even a few days – it’s up to you. Nile Horseback Safaris’ professionally-run riding stables also offer riding classes. Horse riding – and a few refresher lessons! – are high on the muzungu’s travel bucket list this year!
The Throne Room is located in the Omukama – Traditional King’s – (very modern) Palace in Hoima. Here we were told about the “empire of traders, hunters and metalworkers, built and lost on ivory.” The cultural history was illuminating. The experience taught me that I have barely scratched the surface of the country’s history and culture. There’s so much more to touring Uganda than wildlife and adventure. I was honoured to be given the pet name Akiki at our audience with the Omukama, the traditional king of Bunyoro kingdom.
All credit to the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) guides who have plenty of interesting facts about these gorgeous creatures and their stunning bamboo habitat. Just like Uganda’s chimps and mountain gorillas, UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the golden monkeys, so you are (almost) guaranteed to see them.
I stayed at Mount Gahinga Lodge: a hidden gem in a divine part of the country, a few kilometres from the Rwandese border and just five minutes’ walk from the park. Did you know you can also track the gorillas in Mgahinga? Read my multi-page Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking for everything gorilla!
I am fascinated by traditional beliefs and customs. The Nakayima – or ‘witch’ – Tree at Mubende is estimated to be 650 years old and is named after a princess who is believed to have cured smallpox. The tree has 18 “rooms” – these being spacious gaps between the tree’s buttress roots. Read about travel writer Edgar Batte’s visit to the Nakayima Tree.
Every year one million pilgrims congregate in Namugongo, east of Kampala to commemorate the several dozen Uganda Martyrs who were executed between 31 January 1885 and 27 January 1887. Pilgrims travel from across Uganda and East Africa for this event.
The Martyrs Walk across Kampala – launched in 2014 – retraces the last few hours and days of the Martyrs’ fateful journey as they were forced to walk towards their death. Embarking on the Martyrs’ Walk will give you a greater understanding of their contribution to history. The story of St Balikuddembe (namesake of Owino market) will stay in my mind forever. I revisited the Uganda Martyrs’ history when Pope Francis visited Uganda.
In Pakwach I drove past piles of bright yellow smoked Angara fish – without buying any – en route to the best viewing point of Uganda’s solar eclipse, a day I can never forget.
I loved West Nile. Read “10 little-known things to do in Arua, West Nile” to see a few of the new foodstuffs I found there.
This year, the Muzungu has been invited to climb Mount Wati (“what to the what?”)
According to some, Goli in West Nile is the location for the world’s smallest church – although my attempts to verify this have been hit and miss. I need to visit in person. It’s surely Uganda’s smallest church since it’s certainly standing room only. (What a great venue to book if you want to reduce the cost of your wedding!)
Read Solomon Oleny’s story about his visit to the church.
The award-winning Entanda Traditional Hunting and Cultural Experience is a community experience like no other. We jumped off the bus in the countryside near Mityana to be greeted by loud ululating, drumming and singing. We danced as one before being invited to eat the freshest fruits straight from the gardens. Oh my, we ATE! Next, the men in our group were invited to take in part traditional hunting as we ladies were taught how to prepare a luwombo lunch and invited ‘to the bush’ (and what happens in the Bush stays in the Bush!) Oh the stories! This is authentic community tourism at its best.
To visit the Entanda Traditional Hunting and Cultural Experience (AKA “Kojja and Senga’s retreat”) call +256(0) 772 340576 or visit the Entanda Facebook page. Entanda is near Mityana, 60 km along the Kampala to Fort Portal Road. Go visit!
Down at the shorefront restaurants of KLS, there are no frills, just fried whole Tilapia, Nile Perch and reasonably priced drinks beers, sodas and Uganda Waragi gin. KLS is a relaxing spot for watching the sun go down over Lake Victoria. You can also buy fresh fish – gutted and descaled – to cook at home.
It was from here, in the 1870s, that Kabaka Mutesa embarked on hippo hunting expeditions to Lake Bulingugwe and beyond. The hippos are gone, and so is the Kabaka’s fleet of canoes, but Mulungu is still known as the Royal Port.
Read my blog “Eating fish” – where to eat fish on Lake Victoria for the full lowdown on Kabaka’s Landing Site and other places you can eat fish by the lake.
Located along the new Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road, the Bee Hive Bar & Bistro opened mid-2017. The reasonably priced menu at this great little restaurant and bar has local favourites like goat stew and rolex. Beers are just 3,500 Uganda shillings (one US dollar). This is a great stopover after tracking the chimpanzees in Kibale Forest and is located directly opposite the KAFRED project at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary. The Bee Hive also has a pool table and satellite TV (although the muzungu is happiest on the top deck gazing across Bigodi Swamp looking for primates and birds!) Click on the link above to read more about this must-visit stopover. The Bee Hive is also on Facebook. (P.S. You’ll find clean toilets here!)
Kabalega is said to be ‘the last great king of one of the greatest kingdoms in the Great Lakes region.’ His kingdom stretched well beyond the modern day borders of Uganda. The Mparo Tombs monument outside Hoima marks the spot where in 1877 Kabalega granted an audience to Emin Pasha. Read my blog On my knees again: an audience with the King of Bunyoro.
TIP: visit the Mparo Tombs in May and you can stuff your pockets full of the sweet mangoes falling from the huge trees!
Last year I fell in love with the Rwenzoris. Read my #RwenzoriDiary series.
You don’t have to be mega fit and commit to climbing Margherita, Uganda’s highest peak – there are many peaks to choose from and many shorter routes in the foothills. It is here on the lower slopes that you find the most interesting vegetation, birds and animals. Did you know the three-horned chameleon can easily be seen in the Rwenzoris? This mountain range covers over 120 km² and has an amazing 50 lakes and several waterfalls. Keep reading for more stories from the Rwenzoris.
Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine, named in honour of 18 of Uganda’s 38 sunbird species recorded here (so far). If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from Kibale Forest. It’s magical!
If that’s not heaven enough for an amateur birder and conservationist like me, Sunbird Hill Research and Monitoring Site has an extensive reference library and a resident expert primatologist, Julia Lloyd. Read all about the Treehouse, the Birders’ Lounge and the Village Bird Clubs on my blog Love birds, butterflies and chimps? Then don’t miss Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest.
Karamoja (in northeast Uganda) is now firmly on Uganda’s tourist map thanks in part to the great work done by the team at Discover Karamoja. (Crucially for tourists, the UK Government’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) has finally cleared Karamoja as safe to travel to).
Theo Vos writes “Karamoja suffers from a negative image due to decades of isolation and insecurity. However, after peace has returned (2011), the perception of the region by fellow Ugandans and the international community hasn’t changed. The Discover Karamoja project aims to address this through positive imagery and gorgeous photography.”
Karamoja culture is like nowhere else in the #PearlofAfrica. Look at the colour! The landscapes! I’ll be visiting Karamoja very soon.
The region is also home to Kidepo Valley National Park, named one of Africa’s top 10 parks for its ‘spectacular landscapes and large herds of buffalo.’
I hope you’ve enjoyed some of our travel ideas.
The Bee Hive is conveniently located directly opposite the Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary, along the excellent Fort Portal to Kamwenge Road. You can’t fail to miss the big brown and honey-coloured striped building!
Just five minutes’ drive from Kanyanchu (the meeting point for tracking chimps in Kibale National Park), The Bee Hive is a great stopover for coffee, tea or cold drinks after tracking the chimpanzees. The reasonably priced restaurant menu includes local favourites like pumpkin soup, goat stew and rolex (omelette in a chapati in case you haven’t tried one yet) as well as international dishes, beers, wine and spirits. On a previous visit, I really enjoyed tucking into the spaghetti bolognese (goat of course!)
If you’re a sports fan, The Bee Hive has a pool table with regular pool competitions. You can also watch sports and international news on their 50″ screen and satellite TV. (The Bee Hive is the only venue in the area with a back-up generator back-up – so you won’t miss any of the TV action).
The Bee Hive is recommended in the Bradt Uganda Guide edition 9, the current edition (2021). “Set in a conspicuous orange and brown two-storey building opposite the Bigodi Swamp Walk office, this pub-like venue has a pool table, a TV for watching Premier League and other major football matches and a first floor veranda offering views to the Rwenzori in clear weather. A tempting menu of stews, curries and grills is supplemented by cheaper burritos, breakfast (including Rolexes), fresh coffee and desserts. Mains in the US 4-5 dollar range.”
As the name hints, The Bee Hive also sells honey that is harvested from beehives positioned on the boundary of Kibale National Park to deter elephants crossing to villagers’ land. You can even take part in the unique “Bees and Elephants Tour” which I describe here in my Travel Directory.
I love these kinds of projects, as regular blog readers will remember from my days as a volunteer in elephant and community conservation. (Honey is such a great present to buy for folks back home).
Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks, I recommend The Bee Hive for good wholesome food, cold drinks (make mine a beer), coffees (Gorilla Conservation Coffee, of course!) ice-cream and a fab view of the countryside. Outside tourist lodges, The Bee Hive is the only restaurant and bar in the area that caters for both local and international tastes.
TIP: If you’re travelling in a group, or want to hold a private meeting call Erias the Manager on +256 (0)785 948488 to reserve your tables.
The Bee Hive is midway between Fort Portal and Kamwenge, about 4 km south of Kanyanchu Tourist Centre. To be honest, you can’t miss it! It’s 38 km from Fort Portal and 3.5 km from Sunbird Hill.
For latest updates from the Bee Hive, like the Facebook page.
Ah, the romance of train journeys!
My love affair with trains started as a child when my Mum and I would take an occasional train journey to London. As the train pulled into the stately St Pancras station, passengers would pull down windows to open the heavy doors and jump from the still-moving train onto the platform. I can still feel the reverberations of those doors slamming shut behind them. I can smell the diesel. I can hear the whistle as the train gets ready to depart.
European culture resonates with train imagery: grand architecture, long cross-country journeys, meetings with strangers. The 1945 film Brief Encounter is centred around a railway station and is regarded – in Britain at least – as one of the best romantic films of all time. It’s a personal favourite, for its unspoken desires, and the dramatic tension between the two lead actors. The station’s night time setting heightens the drama of this clandestine affair.
My love for the railways was rekindled in East Africa when my friend Amy and I took the Rift Valley Railways commuter train across Kampala.
However, the romance was to be short-lived: the first stop was the abattoir. The Rift Valley Railways train service stopped, started, stopped and in 2024 has resumed once more!
Nonetheless, the short 20 minute journey fired my imagination and had me researching the Uganda Railway and its history. This led to a far bigger adventure: traveling from Nairobi to Mombasa on the infamous Lunatic Express – a journey many had warned me against taking. It took us an incredible 23 hours… in a heatwave no less.
Just last week, we finally got our act together to board the new Standard Gauge Railway train, but a few questions remained:
The SGR train is deemed to be a great success since its inaugural trip in May 2017. At 5,000 Kenya shillings (KES), even first class tickets represent good value for money (and are usually cheaper than flying). We opt for second class tickets, which are cheaper than bus tickets, at just 1500 KES each. (Prices updated June 2024). We take the bus from Nairobi to Mombasa and the SGR train for the return leg of the trip.
As befits railway infrastructure grands projets, Mombasa Standard Gauge Railway station is an impressive structure. The building has been designed well to accommodate the flow of passengers. It is light and spacious.
There is high security at Mombasa SGR station. It starts with the (very inconvenient) stop before the bridge above the station. Julia persuades the police to let our tuk tuk full of baggage drive across the bridge and down the ramp, but not all train passengers are as fortunate. Many have to walk. (2018).
In a temporary-looking structure in front of the station, we dutifully place our bags in front of the sniffer dogs. I know I’m going to be asked to delete the photo, but I still risk taking one!
Next our bags are scanned and our bodies frisked. We go through this process a second time as we enter the main building. Julia is quizzed about her penknife and a glass bottle. At the entry to the main building are two security information boards but, by the time you’ve reached the SGR station, it’s too late to act on much of the information displayed. (An advisory email or SMS would be useful).
We eye up the futuristic-looking glass elevator.
“Are you first-class people?” Asks the security operative. “Yes! Of course we are.” (It’s a shame we only have second-class tickets though!) The elevator goes to the first class VIP waiting area only, on the floor above ours. We take the escalator, giggling.
Security is tight. Staff don’t like us taking photos and I am told off, more than once!
In the ticketing area, a large board shows the availability of trains for the coming eight days. It appears that first-class tickets are sold out quickly: all first-class tickets have been sold out for three days, and very nearly sold out for another three days. Afternoon trains are the most popular.
“Please go to the counter for real-time updates” says the sign but why not use the public address system to make life easier? It doesn’t make sense to ask several hundred people to queue at the counter for updates.
There are several toilets in the building, although not enough. Our floor has a disabled toilet, and three other stalls. We find them to be clean. Ladies, there is even toilet paper!
In 2024, there is a vending machine for drinks, crisps and sweets on the ground floor and a cafe upstairs (in stark contrast to 2018 when we were gobsmacked that there was nowhere to buy anything to eat or drink at Mombasa SGR station, not even water. Neither did we see a drinking water fountain. In 2018 I wrote: what happens if you are taken ill? It would take you between 15 and 30 minutes to exit the station, walk up the long ramp, cross the bridge, buy water, come back the same way – and then pass back through three lots of security. If you’re ill, disabled or with children, you’re going to struggle. Plan ahead.
The station has hundreds of seats, but more are needed. Is there Wi-Fi? (There still wasn’t any on the train in June 2024). You can’t smoke in the station.
There is a prerecorded announcement to advise when it is time to board the train. The lady has a Chinese accent. We leave exactly on time: 3.00 in the afternoon. Staff are smartly dressed in uniform and stand on the platform, making sure we board on time. They watch the train pull away from the platform.
The train feels fresh and cool as we enter. It’s very clean. First impressions are good.
There is a small table between each set of seats. I feel like we’re travelling in a caravan.
Curtains allow you to block out the afternoon sun. Next to the window seat is a small hook for a coat or handbag.
Although we have three seats – 98, 99 and 100 – only two of the seats are next to each other. The seat numbering system is confusing.
A man and a woman push a snack trolley down the aisle. I fancy something to eat. Tea is 100 Kenya shillings, Tusker is 250 bob and a beef or chicken sandwich is 350. Sandwiches are fresh and tasty (although I’m not a big fan of sweet white bread). (2018 prices).
For the first hour of our journey, the train is quiet. After a while everyone starts chatting. That’s the upside of there being no WiFi.
To kill time, Julia and I tuck into some baobab fruit. Our tongues turn bright red with the food colouring. The baobab fruits looks as inviting as a fresh raspberry but are moss-covered stones that require several minutes hard sucking to release the sweetness.
Ten minutes after Voi station, Dianah calls out “Charlotte, you have missed elephants!” I’m sitting on the wrong side of the train to watch Tsavo’s wildlife. Our seats look onto the ‘transport corridor’ – the old railway line and the road, and that’s fine for now: I’m focused on comparing road and rail (the elephants can wait!)
There are regular messages to throw litter in the bin. The toilets are clean throughout the journey. Three quarters of an hour before Nairobi, a member of staff picks up the remaining rubbish. They even mop the floor!
We arrive at Nairobi SGR station five hours later, at exactly the time expected.
Nairobi SGR station is a state-of-the-art piece of infrastructure. It’s easy to navigate and well lit. We cross over the railway line to take the 50 bob shuttle train to Nairobi’s original railway station. SGR staff tell us it will take 20 minutes. It takes us 50 minutes. From the station, we take an Uber. It’s been a long day for us: we left Watamu in a tuk tuk at 7.30 am. Next we boarded a matatu from Malindi to Mombasa before taking another tuk tuk from the centre of Mombasa to the SGR station.
The SGR train journey time is five hours.
The train is safe – no dodgy overtaking of container lorries.
The journey is smooth – no potholes. (No sports bra needed! Unlike traveling in a bumpy tuk tuk!)
The train is more spacious. Tall friends may prefer first-class for its legroom but second-class is fine as you can easily stand up and stretch your legs by walking between the carriages.
Travelling by train is more secure than the bus. There are numerous security checks before you get on the train – cameras in the station? The train doesn’t have seat belts (neither does it have to overtake into oncoming traffic).
The train has toilets.
The train has air-conditioning. It is dust-free travel – even in the dry season.
You can drink alcohol on the train, but you can’t carry your own drinks. Bags are searched at stations and alcohol is confiscated. You can buy alcohol and other drinks and snacks on the train. If you’re in first class, you have access to a dining car. (2024)
It’s easier to watch birds and wildlife from the train!
Each train carriage has a dedicated member of staff. Our lady was very friendly.
The train is cheaper than the bus, if you buy a second class ticket. Ticket prices: 1500 Kenya shillings ($) standard class. First class tickets are 5,000 KES ($) each. (Updated 2024). (Discounts available for children). However, the train journey price works out substantially higher than the ticket cost alone since you have to factor in travel to and from the SGR stations (in remote locations outside the city centres).
Some of us enjoy slow travel. The bus journey time is eight hours.
If you take the bus, you can get from the centre of Nairobi to the centre of Mombasa without having to change vehicle. If you have lots of bags, are travelling with children, or have mobility issues, you might prefer to simply take the bus.
You only have to buy one ticket for the whole journey, meaning less hassle. If you take the SGR, you have to allow extra time and additional cash for the connections to the stations.
Some buses have air-conditioning – but does it always work? The same applies to the WiFi.
We enjoy our brief lunch stops and the chance to try the local food en route. By contrast, SGR food is boring in its bland international style.
The bus has a few brief comfort break stops – a chance for smokers to step out.
You can choose your seats when you make your booking.
Ticket prices: MASH have seats ranging from 1,000 – 2,500 Kenya shillings ($10 to $25) according to the seat type. (2018)
Journey price = same as the ticket price. No extra costs.
If you’re going straight to the last stop, choose the express train. The express journey time is 4 hours and 43 minutes. This runs in the afternoon, in both directions. The morning inter-county trains stop at Athi River, Emali, Kibwezi, Mtito Andei, Voi, Minsenyi, Mariakani. The inter-county journey time is 5 hours and 58 minutes.
Book early to avoid disappointment. Learn from our mistake! (We spent 25 hours on buses from Kampala to Mombasa – with just a half hour break between journeys – because we tried to book two days before departure when the train was already sold out).
You can book in person at the SGR stations but they are a long way out of town. Pay by cash in Kenya shillings or use MPesa. I have a reliable contact who can make all your train and bus reservations and payments.
Use your phone. Pay by MPesa (you’ll need a Safaricom Kenya SIM card to do this). If you want to book the SGR from outside Kenya, ask a tour operator to book your tickets or contact me.
“It ought to be plain how little you gain
by getting excited and vexed.
You’ll always be late for the previous train,
and always on time for the next.”
― Piet Hein
Click here to see the rates for the SGR train – or Madaraka Express – on the Kenya Railways web site. The web site also details fares between intermediate stations along the route.
If you want to choose your seats (and sit next to a friend or be by the window facing in the right direction), it may be better to book in person at a train station.
To make a booking or enquiry call + 254 (0)709 388888 / 0709907000 / 0728603581/2 or email info@krc.co.ke
Be at the station one hour before departure. There are multiple security checks and print your tickets at the station.
You can book up to 30 days in advance. (2018)
To avoid Mombasa traffic, get on at the Mariakani stop. To do this you will need to get the slow (morning) train.
Three of us paid 700 KES for a tuk tuk from Fort Jesus to the SGR station. We had been quoted 1,500 KES for a car. (2018)
Trains depart from Mombasa twice daily. The morning inter-county train departs at 8.20 AM (arrives Nairobi 2.18 PM) and the afternoon express train leaves at 3.15 PM (and arrives Nairobi 8.14 PM). Tickets are on sale between 5:40 AM and 4 PM. Tickets can be purchased up to ten minutes before departure. (2018 info)
At Mombasa SGR there is a wide range of taxis, buses and matatus heading to Mombasa city and elsewhere. No need to book.
Trains depart from Nairobi twice daily. The morning inter-county train departs at 8.20 AM (arrives Mombasa 2.18 PM) and the afternoon express train leaves at 2.35 PM (and arrives Nairobi 7.18 PM). 2018 info.
To get from central Nairobi to the SGR station, board the commuter train at Nairobi railway station. The fare is 50 bob (KES) between the two stations.
I commend SGR for operating a reliable and affordable service. The infrastructure is excellent and the booking process easy but there needs to be more attention to the overall experience. Efficiency and cleanliness are important but the stations need water fountains, catering outlets and shops. (Not only is this useful for the passenger but it represents additional revenue streams for SGR – surely a no-brainer). SGR need to make Wi-Fi available at stations and on the train.
I had to hotspot from my Ugandan phone to order our cab.
“If I ran the railway”… I’d display information about the SGR project and its construction. Where is the history of the Uganda Railway? Where is the tourist information? Why not play some background music? Part of the travel experience is buying and reading a newspaper, finding something tasty to eat, learning something about the route and the destination, sharing photos and updates with friends online. People don’t only judge things by cost.
The boring issues of cost and logistics to one side, did the muzungu find the experience to be exciting?
Well yes, the novelty of the new experience made it worth the wait.
I can’t say the journey was romantic – unlike the Lunatic Express was. Everything about the SGR is too shiny and corporate.
For romantic interest, next time maybe I’ll just take a good book (or download a copy of Brief Encounter and daydream I’m there, underneath the clock, waiting …)
If you enjoy train travel stories, my Lunatic Express story was an epic adventure.
For more views about the SGR / Madaraka Express, read East Africa tourism expert Prof. Dr. Wolfgang Thome’s blog ATC News.
We can’t wait for the day when we can catch the SGR train from Kampala to the coast for the week-end!
Sunbird Hill is ideally situated for anyone planning to track the chimpanzees or the Green-breasted Pitta in Kibale Forest or for general birdwatching around Kibale Forest. It’s also a wonderful location to relax and enjoy the pure forest air and the natural sounds emanating from the forest. I’ve been visiting this fabulous part of Uganda regularly since 2009. One definite plus about visiting Sunbird Hill is having the chance to meet Julia Lloyd, the resident primatologist. If you love chimpanzees, you’ll be amazed at her stories of her many years living and working deep in Kibale Forest.
National and international experts who visit Sunbird Hill on a regular basis include ornithologists, lepidopterists, herpetologists, botanists, entomologists and primatologists. Bird ringing (or banding) occurs periodically throughout the year. Bird ringing in Kibale Forest is one of my all-time favourite blogs. Contact me if you’d like to learn more about the next ringing trips.
Sunbird Hill Nature Monitoring & Rewilding Site is situated on 40 acres of private land bordering Kibale Forest. It is just off the Fort Portal – Kamwenge Road, 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre (base for chimpanzee tracking in Kibale National Park) and 3.5 km from KAFRED at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary.
Julia writes:
We are a British-Ugandan family passionate about wildlife and conservation. Our compound is a traditional open plan dwelling, with grass thatched houses, a treehouse, a “camp kitchen” and the Birders Lounge. Guests are welcome to stay in one of the three elevated thatched cottages – with expansive views into Kibale Forest – to house visiting biology experts. These are open to the occasional tourist too.
Sunbird Hill is regenerating farmland. This, and its location on the edge of the forest, means the land has numerous microhabitats that give it a high species richness: plants, insects, amphibians, reptiles and mammals and our main passion: birds. Species lists are constantly being updated, and so far we have recorded 16 of the 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda. Our local naturalists, together with ornithologists Roger Skeen and Malcolm Wilson, have recently pushed our bird species list to 295! (A sighting of a lemon dove particularly delighted our Rog).
We know there are many more birds yet to be identified at Sunbird Hill (and we challenge all visitors to add to our bird list!) We know that NatureUganda members will definitely add many more ticks to our list. We are proud winners of the 24 hour Big Birding Day four years in a row (in the category Outside Protected Areas / Private Site).
Calls from wild chimpanzees are regularly heard, especially at night and early in the morning when chimps call out to each other from their night nests (making ‘contact calls’ as they are known in the primatological world). These primates are often seen when the fig tree at the end of our garden is laden with fruit; half of the tree’s canopy is in Kibale Forest National Park. Often elephants can be heard breaking trees during their nightly forages whilst the distinct calls of the Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl and Black-shouldered Nightjar reveal their identity.
The Birders Lounge is a large thatched bird-themed shelter that houses our growing reference library and covers topics including: ornithology, mammalogy, primatology, entomology, herpetology, and botany, as well as ecology, conservation and African travel. Comfortable chairs, desks and work benches are surrounded by Ugandan natural history paraphernalia. The garden around the Birders Lounge is full of native and naturalised flowering plants carefully selected to nurture a diversity of birds and butterflies – perfect for the armchair nature enthusiast (and those of you with heavy photographic equipment!) Our bird baths, bird hide, butterfly mud puddle and pond just keep pushing our species lists up!
Paths wind through the 40 acres of land that borders Kibale Forest taking you through forest edge, woodland, bushland, grassland, farmland, wetland, and riverine habitats. (Pre-booked) visitors are invited to follow the nature trails with one of our expert naturalist site guides.
Sunbird Hill was set up to support the local NGO In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. Our concept is that national and international experts train our Sunbird Hill team. Our team pass this learning onto the youth of our Village Bird Clubs. Wildlife identification and information sharing inspire conservation.
In the Shadow of Chimpanzees has created a number of initiatives on the section of Sunbird Hill land that is dedicated to community use. They include a butterfly house and gardens, medicinal plant garden, bee hives, elephant trench and village football pitch.
On the Sunbird Hill Experience, one of the highly knowledgeable naturalist site guides will point out and provide insightful information on birds, butterflies, moths and plants as well as the occasional primate, reptile and amphibian sighting. What cannot be identified during the walk is photographed and identified at Sunbird Hill’s extensive reference library back at the Birders Lounge.
Guess who are staying overnight at Sunbird Hill Nature Monitoring & Rewilding Site are welcome to join nocturnal nature adventures with the team, as well as a nature walk the following morning before heading back to the Birders Lounge for refreshments, consultation with the reference books and documentation of our findings. As the birds quieten down, the birding morphs into butterflying, an interest that has been growing rapidly among our naturalist site guides.
We live in a truly Ugandan village environment so if you would like to see more of the rural village of Kyabakwerere, a member of our staff will be happy to escort you.
Chimpanzee Tracking (Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park), Swamp Walk in Bigodi (managed by KAFRED, the original and best provider) and Tooro Cultural Museum (Bigodi) are less than 10 minutes drive from Sunbird Hill.
The Treehouse and three elevated cottages are available on a ‘bed only’ basis. There is a well-equipped Camp Kitchen available for your use.
Alternatively, Kiconcos Kitchen can provide simple meals when booked in advance at 30,000 UGX per lunch and 35,000 UGX per dinner per person. A special breakfast can be prepared by our homeschooled teenager Dillon for 25,000 UGX.
The elevated cottages are based on two adults sharing. Add $20 per extra person (each elevated cottage has one double and two single beds). (The construction of the cottage makes it unsuitable for little children).
The Treehouse – everyone’s childhood dream! – is cosy and self-contained with one double bed and is based on 2 people sharing.
Rates include accommodation, access to the Birders Lounge for armchair birding, use of the reference library and bird hide and a walk with our expert naturalist site guides.
The Sunbird Hill Experience fees include tea and coffee and nibbles at the Birders Lounge. Cold beers, sodas, local gin tots and snacks are available at extra cost.
Please note: access to the nature trails is strictly only available to visitors who are accompanied by our site guides and who have booked and paid in advance. Be aware that you are not allowed to enter Kibale National Park from Sunbird Hill.
Discounts are available to members of NatureUganda, NatureKenya, East African Natural History Society, Explorers’ Club, Lepidoptera Club of Africa & African Bird Club. (Proof of membership required). “We want you naturalists here!” Says Julia.
Sunbird Hill is 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park and is 3.5 km from Bigodi off the Fort Portal-Kamwenge Road.
Keep up to date with Sunbird Hill via their Facebook page or WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 to make an enquiry. Booking in advance is essential.
Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine. If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Sunbird Hill isn’t run as a lodge so isn’t for your mainstream tourist. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from the forest. It’s magical! In fact, it is the biggest inspiration behind the East Africa Travel Podcast. (And if you’re serious about birding then you can’t miss a trip to this lovely corner of western Uganda).
My hands were full. With one hand I pulled my suitcase on wheels; in the other I was carrying – and trying to quickly drink – a hot cup of coffee before boarding my early morning flight to Istanbul.
A member of Turkish Airlines staff smiled at me and grabbed hold of my trolley to help me walk down to the plane. She introduced herself as Kesvar. “You’re the nicest person I’ve met all day,” I said, relieved to be past Heathrow’s hard-nosed, sarcastic security personnel.
“I believe in karma,” she said. “I always help pregnant ladies and old people.” (Which category did she think I fell into – I had to wonder!)
A special thank you to the lovely Kesvar, a member of the Turkish Airlines ground crew at Heathrow Airport
My new friend Kesvar and I chatted all the way down to the plane. We talked about Istanbul, my next stop. “You must go and eat fish and bread next to the Bosphorus,” she insisted. We talked about fabulous Turkish food. We agreed how easy it is to get into Istanbul city centre from the airport. It’s cheap too! Istanbul has made sure that a short stopover in the megapolis is as easy as possible. Talking to Kesvar was like being welcomed to Istanbul and I hadn’t even left London!
Marvel at Istanbul’s incredible architecture on a boat ride along the Bosphorus. The journey takes you through hundreds of years of history
By the time my little suitcase and I boarded the plane, I was one of the last. Everywhere I looked, the overhead lockers appeared full. There was no room in the locker above my seat so I wandered up and down the aisle looking for a little space. There was none in economy.
I managed to get the attention of one of the airhostesses who invited me to follow her into business class. We giggled as we shuffled the other bags around so we could wedge my lucky little suitcase into a corner of one of the business class lockers. It was quite a workout!
Finally in my seat, I settled down to watch the quirkiest airline safety video. I’ve watched these videos so times that I tend to switch off when they start. The Turkish Airlines video grabbed my attention though. Even though it was played in Turkish to start with (then later in English), I couldn’t help but be drawn in by the clever graphics. Meet internet sensation Zack King!
This is Zack King. The off-the-wall style of the Turkish Airways in-flight safety video was great viewing – I loved watching it (twice!)
It’s a brilliantly done piece with animation and subtitles throughout. My sister Sarah is deaf. I know how left out she feels when other airlines don’t provide subtitles on in-flight entertainment. The Turkish Airlines safety video even has an interpretive signer. Sarah would love it!
I always enjoy Turkish Airlines’ meals and they were as good as ever: a tasty salad, a pasta dish and chocolate dessert.
Suleymaniye Mosque. Diary of a Muzungu visits Istanbul on a stopover between London and Entebbe
Breathtaking! An interior view of Hagia Sophia / Aya Sofya is a highlight of an Istanbul city tour
Although I had planned three days in Istanbul, unfortunately commitments in Entebbe meant I could not delay as planned. Nonetheless, my short stopover at Ataturk Airport in Istanbul allowed me time to sample some delicious honey-flavoured baklava and a cold Efes beer and stock up on boxes of Turkish Delight for friends in Kampala. Two hours free Wi-Fi gave me plenty of time for me to catch up with everyone.
Drink a Turkish Efes beer in Istanbul! Or better still, take a few days and explore the city, en route between London and Entebbe
There is so much more to see in Istanbul! Read my blogs about this superb and accessible city.
Crossing continents – the Muzungu’s Istanbul city tour and A day in … Istanbul.
Breathtaking! An aerial view of Istanbul at night
“Omukazi twala, leeta embwa…” — “Take my wife, give me a dog…” goes my clan motto.
See, I belong to the Kkobe Clan of Buganda Kingdom and here, every clan is named after a totem: literally something to which a clan ought to accord maximum respect; something the clan is never supposed to eat, if edible to others — or risk a hefty punishment by an unforgiving oracle. My clan has a rather unusual totem, Ekkobe, which is not an animal like most other totems in the kingdom — it is from a plant… a potato-like tuber… it is food. So we normally introduce ourselves as Abazira Mmere (those to whom food is a taboo) — mysterious! Isn’t it?
My great grandfather was a Mwami Wa Kabaka (King’s Minister), one of the few landlords in the present-day Kyaddondo East (forget these ones of today who don’t even own a mile of land). He was blessed to marry a daughter to Ham Mukasa, one of the survivors of the Uganda Martyr Killings. For that reason, I treasure my name. For it is an indelible mark of my heritage. Like a heartbeat it sounds — Mutumba… Mutumba….
I guess you’re now wondering why I’m feeding you with all this history mumbo-jumbo. I just intend to state that my clan motto is indeed one of the kingdom’s most famous.
I am not one of the many that perceive this motto as chauvinistic and patriarchal; I rather think our Mubala shows love for the dog, but not disdain for the woman. You wonder who thinks otherwise? Well, our neighbours of Lugave Clan have a mubala (clan motto) that goes,
“Bw’ompa akawala ako, ng’ebbanja liwedde…” — “If you give me that little girl, I will forget all you owe me…”
So it is obvious that those folks would look at our motto as misogynistic; which to me, is not true.
Don’t get me wrong: I don’t say this because of the immense support I have for my heritage — I in fact have been hating most of it since I was born. I never believed that the seedling my grandma planted for me to wash my face on, every morning, was the reason why I got back my appetite — though truly I started eating well again, after a few mornings of my ordered irrigations. I never believed that the big python whose big tree-house people visited from far and beyond, had any supernatural powers. I never believed that the trances that I underwent were the famous Eyaabwe, which the Ganda say are ancestral spirits, which disturb children who don’t go back to the village; to Kulima Ebiijja (cleaning the burial grounds) of the long-gone Jajjas (ancestors). I never took seriously anyone who spoke in tongues and rolled on the ground at family reunions, claiming to be possessed and/or passing on our ancestors’ message to us. I never believed that the failure to wipe my body with herbs after cleaning our ancestral burial grounds was the reason why I got demented and vomited vehemently — without a single infection — only to feel better after being forced to gulp on a concoction of bitter herb juice. The exorcism, to me, was just luck and not magic.
Amidst all this disbelief, only one thing could sway my guarded heart — a dog. For as far as my memory serves me, I grew up with a dog by my side, her name: Police. Whether I was out to hunt squirrels, trapping guinea fowls, or swimming in clay-mine ponds, Police was always by my side, sharing the depths of the water with me when she could — like a Guardian Angel.
“Shaw…”, I would tell her; pointing at anything that I wanted her to chase after. Not only enemies though, sometimes she would be chasing the ball in our thrilling soccer game of two.
Police died a very early death, in my opinion by then. And if I were to say she didn’t leave a hole in my heart, I would be lying. None of her offspring understood me half the way she did, and neither did their own. They died off one by one till her entire lineage was done.
The Indians fancy the theory of reincarnation: I somehow started believing it too when I got myself a beautiful pup from my neighbour’s litter. Cobra was white like cassava milk; the only things on her body that weren’t white were her dilated pink pupils. For some weird reason, I could see Police whenever I looked in Cobra’s eyes — reincarnation? She was the closest among all dogs to being like my Police. But at about 20 years in dog age – 17 months of age in reality – Cobra meddled in classified business! She trespassed into a shrine of a renowned Native Doctor during a ritual. The Witch and her congregation praised Jajja Nalumoso for appearing to them physically in form of a white creature — a known habit of the Spirit of Nalumoso. Since then, my dog has not come back home. She carelessly bypasses me when she’s out on a walk – to God-knows-where – with the Witch’s son. She doesn’t even remember her name, Cobra; Nalumoso is all she hears. I can’t believe she forgot about her baby boy, Doddie — he misses Mom so dearly. His black fur and golden brown patches, get more melancholic every new dawn. His eyes… well… mine get teary whenever I look in his. He keeps his tired gaze, everyday, fixed on the path his mother took before she failed to return.
I don’t care much about anything else. I just wish the Witch knew at least my clan’s mubala; so she could take anything and leave my dog with me.
The Muzungu: thanks Bash for a cultural tour of Buganda! The totem system fascinates me: “Bampita Nagawa” – “they call me Nagawa” and my totem is Enkima, the red-tailed monkey.
If you’ve been reading Diary of a Muzungu since the early days (2009) you will remember how I was lucky enough to have my first dog when I came to Uganda. He was my best buddy (and the inspiration for my logo). Tragically, he had an accident. But look at him, isn’t he a carbon copy of Bash’s mutt?
