If you’re planning to move to the Pearl of Africa, you’re bound to fall in love with Ugandans’ infectious enthusiasm for life. In an InterNations survey of expats living in 191 countries, Uganda received the highest marks for friendliness.
Ugandans welcome people of all nationalities; it is an intrinsic part of their culture. The ability to speak English widely offers visitors a huge advantage but it’s the wonderful welcomes and smiles that make this place accessible. One of my first bits of advice from a fellow Brit was: “You’ll get used to Ugandans staring at you. Don’t be intimidated. Just smile and they will return the most dazzling smile.”
It’s true.
Ugandans love talking about Premier league football, politics and how much they drank the night before. Ugandans love to party. Conversely, Ugandans are also avid church (or mosque) goers and very ‘God-fearing.’
Read my most popular blog 50 reasons why I love Uganda.
Introducing Kampala, the capital of Uganda
Set on the edge of Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater lake, Kampala is named after the Impala, who were once abundant on the city’s historic Seven Hills. These days the city covers more than twenty hills and, to see an Impala, you now have to travel to Lake Mburo National Park, three hours to the west.
Kampala nightlife is legendary across the region and the city is a great place to work, network and socialise. The expat community is welcoming and diverse. There is a great range of clubs, activities and restaurants.
Kampala is a great base for weekends away on safari, white water rafting or just chilling at a lodge with a wonderful view. Heavy traffic, sometimes potholed roads and bad drivers are some of the downsides to life in Kampala. When it’s hot, tempers fray!
“Muzungu how are you?” Life as an expat in Uganda
Expats can’t escape being called “Muzungu,” meaning lost or confused (from the Swahili). Apparently this is how the first white people looked when we first arrived in East Africa. Read the full definition here What is a Muzungu?
“Bazungu” (plural) and white people generally are made to feel welcome, thanks to the good work of the European doctors, teachers and missionaries of the nineteenth century. In Uganda, knowing a white person is perceived to be a good thing, as we arrive with the possible offers of jobs, sponsorship and connections. Expats do get regular requests for work, school fees, the ubiquitous ‘sponsorship’ and occasionally cash. Ugandans are very polite so will ask nicely. It’s okay to say no.
My blog Are muzungus all rich? is one of my most popular reads.
Expat conversations often revolve around complaints about the potholed roads, the naughty traffic policemen, and being overcharged for things on the street. It’s unavoidable: as a Muzungu, you are perceived to have money, even when you feel you are penniless.
What language do you speak in Uganda?
Uganda is home to 56 ethnic groups and their languages. Luganda is the language of the Ganda people of Buganda, mostly resident in Greater Kampala. This is the language you will hear spoken most often in Kampala. The lingua franca of Uganda is English. (Phew – I’m in luck!)
More important than the language you speak is the manner in which you greet people. Greetings are hugely important in building relationships, as is the time to acknowledge people, particularly those of status. Take the time to say “How are you?” even if you are in a hurry.
It is quite common to start a meeting with a prayer (so have a couple of lines ready!) Equally, it is common for expat visitors to be asked to make an impromptu speech at a meeting. You may be invited to a number of weddings as the guest of honour!
What’s the weather like in Uganda?
Uganda’s position on the Equator means we benefit from an unbelievably beautiful climate; most days are sunny with blue skies. Even when it does rain, the sun quickly dries up the puddles.
Southern Uganda, and borders of Lake Victoria, are generally wetter, with rains generally spread throughout the year. Here most rain falls from March to June and during the shorter rainy seasons of November and December. The effects of climate change mean seasons have become blurred but you can normally look out of the window and decide whether you need to take an umbrella to work that day. Sunshine is never very far away. Think UK – but the opposite!
The country comes to a halt when it rains, and everybody hides inside. After the rain stops, expect mega-traffic jams. Kampala is a busy and often chaotic city especially if you’re rushing to a meeting and get stuck in traffic for an hour. Have a good car radio, always have airtime on your phone and have a newspaper to hand so you don’t feel you’re wasting those precious minutes. Even better, get someone else to drive or work from home. It’s a good idea to live near where you work or agree to work from home sometimes.
Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a tongue-in-cheek blog by a fellow expat.
Uber launched in Kampala to the ire of the overpriced taxi drivers and the boda boda (motorbike) drivers. I had always found “private hire” taxis in Kampala too expensive but Uber, Bolt, newcomer Lolo and SafeCar charge a third of what traditional taxi drivers charge. Uber Uganda also has bodas on their app but SafeBoda is by far the best option in 2022. Since the pandemic, many of the drivers on the ride hailing apps are overcharging. In my experience, SafeBoda is the most transparent (and cheapest) way to travel across town. However, a car ride is always going to be the safest transport option.
Read How to ride a boda boda before you jump on that motorbike!
Healthcare in Uganda. Beware the Travellers’ Health Book! Tropical disease diary
The provision of healthcare can be hit and miss. Local clinics and pharmacies can offer you the best advice on tropical medicine, but beware out of date drugs.
Regular health check-ups are advised, particularly for bilharzia (which you may catch in Lake Victoria or the River Nile). Beware of malaria (we don’t all have the same symptoms). Expats usually buy private health insurance which is not particularly expensive.
Read my Uganda travel advice I ignored including How to avoid Malaria and How to avoid Bilharzia.
What’s on in Kampala?
Kampala is developing quickly and there’s always plenty (too much!) to do. Many expats rely on word of mouth recommendations from friends and colleagues. Online information is slowly improving, particularly through Facebook and WhatsApp groups. I promote festivals and other events on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page. X (Twitter) is a good place to find out what’s on too. Follow me @CharlieBeau.
There are many ways to meet fellow expats in Kampala. You will quickly find familiar faces. Generally, expats and Ugandans mix easily, but sometimes you just need to talk someone from back home who ‘gets you’ without having to navigate the cultural differences. Kampala has the friendliness of the village, but village life can be a bit oppressive sometimes. Wherever you go, you will bump into people you know – even upcountry!
The overwhelming majority of visitors to Uganda love the place. Many of us extend our contracts; some of us decide to settle here. Mixed race relationships are common and I share some of my experiences here in How to date a Ugandan.
Enjoy the best nightlife in East Africa!
Kampala is a party city. Every bar plays loud music and it’s quite common to dance all night at your local bar. There are no particular bar opening hours; many are open all day and all night – you can always find a drink in Kampala.
Very few Ugandans smoke, and culturally, it is frowned upon. That said, few people would complain if you light up. Although it is illegal to smoke in many places, it is rarely enforced. Virtually all clubs and restaurants are outside, or at least have an outdoor section, so you can usually smoke where you like. Cigarettes are very cheap so expat smokers are very happy here!
Most people will tell you they find Kampala a safe city, however, don’t leave your phone on the table while you’re chatting in a café and be careful of your possessions when you are in busy bars (as in most cities).
Technology in Uganda. Staying in touch with the things and people you care about
Access to the Internet is improving all the time in Uganda so Skyping, WhatsApping and Zooming with friends and family back home is a doddle.
These days, your boda boda driver and your house girl have a mobile phone. They may even have a phone that looks better than yours. (Beware cheap Chinese or Indian phones in Uganda. Many are fake so do shop around carefully).
Free WiFi is common these days but you can’t beat the convenience of your own personal – and fast – connection. MiFis are small pocket-sized devices that let you connect up to ten devices simultaneously.
Not so long ago, banking and payments involved a lot of physical effort. We paid for everything with cash, waited in line at the bank to withdraw money using a chequebook and drove distances to pay bills. On my first trip to a Kampala bank, I watched a customer stuff wads of banknotes into his socks before he left the building! Now, you can pay for almost anything via your phone, by linking your online bank account to one of Uganda’s mobile money systems. It’s so easy! Although European banks have had online banking for a long time, few are linked with mobile phone technology yet. Come to East Africa to see how it works!
I use mobile money to buy internet data and pay bills. Most of us regularly send or receive cash using these systems. (In Kenya, the M-Pesa system is used in almost every shop and bar).
As for computers, Computer Facilities in Kamwokya have saved my bacon more than once! Two laptop hard drives have died on me but it’s very reassuring to know that they can (almost always) recover the data. Computer Facilities develop bespoke network infrastructure solutions for large companies. Their client list is a ‘who’s who’ of the corporate world in UG and across East Africa.
What about old-fashioned snail mail? Does Kampala have a Post Office?
International delivery companies exist but there is also a Post Office on Kampala Road. I learned that a trip to the Post Office is a good indicator of how you’re getting to grips with life in Uganda.
Back in my VSO volunteer days, I was a regular visitor to the Post Office. Read “The cheque’s in the post ….” apparently.
Last but not least, expats share their advice and experiences in Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]
Please am in Ghana and how do I get your visa, or I can pick it up at the airport like Kenya.
You can apply online in advance or you can buy on arrival at Entebbe airport. Standard fee is $50 for upto 90 days.
Read my Uganda visa blog here
I’m not familiar with requirements for all nationalities so I would check Uganda immigration web site for the case of Ghana.
Enjoy the Pearl of Africa!
This is great and exactly the type of info i want to put together for my blog on kenya…
Hi Nadine, thanks and asante sana 🙂
Appreciate the opportunity to establish ongoing friendship. In the very near future will be in Kampala. Currently work aboard ship, as merchants seaman. In San Diego, California. What state are you from.? Establish a friendship MY fiancee EVA,
Hi Eva and Darryl – wow – Kampala will be a bit of a change from life on the ocean. I guess we have Lake Victoria though 😉
I’m from the UK originally. Used to be a VSO volunteer (a bit like Peace Corps).
Hi Muzungu,
I am a Ugandan national and have lived outside Uganda for a long time. I visit my home country regularly but I have to apply for Visas online for my wife and children because they are not Ugandan yet. I have enjoyed reading your blog and could not stop laughing at some humorous description of my countrymen’s actions.
Weebale nnyo nnyabo!
Hi Sam
There is so much humour in Uganda, one of the many reasons I love living here! It’s so refreshing how Ugandans are good at laughing at themselves and deciding to laugh at sometimes awful situations rather than punching someone (I think I lived in London for far too long!) The average Londoner would not cope with Kampala traffic without regular incidences of road rage, for example. Read my blog Driving in Kampala, written by a fellow British expat. You could see how much the place got to him!
Thanks for dropping by my blog.
Good luck with the visas. More and more people are now getting them on arrival at Entebbe airport by the way.
My partner holds a British passport but was born in Uganda prior to 1962 ( this date seems important) she was married to a Ugandan national who is deceased now she has lived and worked in the UK for 30 years now I hold a British passport never been to Uganda she wants to go back home to Uganda and wants me to go with her now what are the rules for citizenship for her and me as her spouse we plan to marry before we go if that helps she has close family in Uganda mostly Kamplala. I did speak to the Ugandan High Commission in London but although they tried to be helpful I was more confused ever web site I vist does not give enough details about emigrating to Uganda for British Nationals ? An help appreciated .
Hello David, I’m not in a position to advise you on the intricacies of immigration law but I have sent you an email with contacts of a tried and trusted immigration adviser.
In my experience, there is no website that answers all immigration questions. Your best bet is to try and connect with expats who are resident in Uganda and hear first-hand from them. Facebook is generally the best place to do this before you arrive in country. Best of luck with all your plans and preparations!
Been reading everything I can find about living in Uganda my partner was born in Uganda but has British Nationality as do I we plan to move to Uganda later this year all being well. We are going to marry before we come to Uganda her name is Lucy Namuleme what does that mean in English I can’t find it anywhere on line ?
Hello! I am an Austrian Volunteer in Uganda and I would like getting to know other Europeans my Age (I am 22 :)) Do you know where I can make some Connections?
Hi Lisa, welcome to UG!
I’d suggest joining Internations. They have a monthly social meet up. Look for expats in Kampala and expats in Uganda groups on Facebook. Join Mountain Club of Uganda, or other sports clubs. Read The Eye Magazine and Expats in Uganda Magazine for other ideas. Goethe Institute / Alliance Francaise have a big calendar of events too. Films, art, dance and more.
hello,am a student of architecture in my final year at Makerere University. am designing kampala heritage centre and city museum for my final year thesis.your perception about the city is enlightening.
I wish to get in touch with you
Hi Daniel, thanks for dropping by. You can message me here.
Hello muzungu.
I am a Belgian who is in love with an Ugandan lady. We already have a beautiful baby together. Now I wanna buy a piece of land for her to build a house on. I want to get in touch with a good and reliable lawyer. Can you recommand me someone?
Kind regards,
Chris
Salut Christophe, yes I can recommend a lawyer. Let me email you tomorrow.
Been on a remote island on Lake Victoria – apologies for slow reply.
thank you for all of the information. we are arriving in October to consider a project for Don Bosco Children.
Please reply to my email address so that we can stay in contact.
Thank you
Ed and Tanja
Glad to hear the info has been useful 🙂
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Thanks for the info, it is beautiful to know and understand. I have a male friend who wishes to settle in Uganda in 2020, which has found me on your page to understand what to expect in that country.
He mentioned of starting life in Kampala. I am hoping to share as much on it as l could find. You have proven to be a good starting point.
Should you have extra information that you think can be of help, please drop some.
Thanks
Thanks
Glad to read you are finding the information useful. I’ve lived in Uganda for 10 years so I could write a book about life here! Perhaps one day I will… in the meantime if you have any specific questions, please ask away.
Hello, I’m south African, already lived in 15 different countries as expat all over the world..just got a contract to go to work in Kampala.
is it easy to find a good gym to workout? what about classic “healthy” diet, like chicken breast, eggs, oats which is the base of my daily?
Dear Dr
Kampala has lots of gyms, from cheap tiny local ones to state of the art fitness centres in international hotels. You can sign up for a year, or pay as you go. Plenty of options and lots of fitness classes too.
Do you run? Then join Kampala Hash House Harriers who meet at 6 pm at a different location every Monday. Kampala life is great. We have a number of marathons, squash courts, ultimate frisbee, lots of swimming pools (mostly at hotels). There are cycling groups, mountain climbing groups and more.
You can get almost anything in KLA. Chicken, eggs you can get everywhere. Tilapia and Nile Perch are our main fish. Oats are a bit of a special item still but bigger supermarkets sell them.
Ugandan fruits and vegetables are fabulous. Huge, cheap, plentiful. If you’re very health conscious you might find local food limiting – tons of starch and few veg served. Cook at home or go for international type restaurants.
I’m sure you’ll love Uganda!
“made to feel welcome, thanks to the good work of the European doctors, teachers and missionaries of the nineteenth century”
Wow, if that is how you summarize colonialism, you really need to open your perspectives. The #1 reason, ppl give bazungu lot of attention that you later observed was because you are perceived as wealthy in a 3rd world nation.
Im afraid your entire view of Africa may be tainted by your rose-colored glasses. I’d urge you to read on the effects of this colonialism and other isms bazungu are responsible like ethnic and cultural genocide to force Christianity and language into these former beautiful civilizations. Also highly recommend to google WSIC (White savior industrial complex) and how it shapes your thinking. Your blogs betray your thinking btw with strong focus on euro based quotes /sources in reference to a land that is better known by its indigenous peoples. Putting emphasis for example on a papal visit as if that REALLY matters to the the millions who are economically suffering, unless of course to further confuse them as to the reason of their station.
It seems you are a well intentioned person but I must point out that just like the road to hell is lined with the best intentions, you should be careful of falling in that trap of inadvertently contributing to the very thing you are trying to alleviate. I get your main audience is fellow expats and bazungus but understand that your comments come off to Africans as borderline clueless or just plain intentionally ignorant and insensitive to past histories.
What a silly comment. Is that how I summarise colonialism? Of course it’s not.
It’s been on my heart to leave the US and spend a couple of years elsewhere in the world. I currently serve as a Social Worker here, what’s a good site to seek employment there before packing up and moving across the ocean? Thank you sir posting this!
Hi Junie, I don’t have a job search site that comes to mind. They’re a fairly new thing in Uganda and not very well developed. There are a very high number of job-seekers and few jobs and word on the street is that jobs advertised do not exist or have already been filled…
As an expat, I would recommend professional volunteering with Voluntary Service Overseas, for example. That’s how I came to Uganda. You could also try researching via Internations or join an expat group on Facebook. Another means is to research NGOs and see one you might want to approach directly.
Uganda is a wonderful country is very many ways but the country certainly needs more social workers.
Best of luck!
Charlotte
It took me several days to read each and every one of your writings, I love your style, the enthusiasm you put in and the delicacy with which you treat the inhabitants of Uganda. In November 2020 I have to go to Kasese because I have a proposal for a relationship with the house and everything. Everything seems fine and my intuition gives me the ok. I wish it was in Kampala but hey, it came out in Kasese. You know Of course I am full of fears but well I will get a visa for 90 days and then I will see how I solve the extension Do you know if internal flights from Entebbe to Kasese are very expensive? thank you and I follow you read
Hello Mario Cesar, thanks for dropping by. I’m thrilled that you have read so much of my little blog. Hope you are finding it useful.
Do make sure that you explicitly ask for 90 days when you get your visa stamp otherwise you may just be given 30 days. In theory you can be in the country for a maximum of six months but immigration don’t normally give more than a two-month extension after the first 90 days.
As for internal flights, they are very expensive unfortunately. The last time I checked flights from Entebbe to Kasese were charter only.
It would be cheaper for you to hire a car with driver. If you need any recommendations, just drop me an email. Alternatively, check out some of the tour operators in my Travel DirectoryTravel Directory.
Uganda is a wonderful country. Enjoy!
Something wonderful happens when someone very busy like you answers a question from the other side of the planet, I live in Argentina so imagine. It is beautiful and makes you feel very important to yourself. Thank you for taking the time to answer me and, as the last line of Casablanca, I hope this is the beginning of a long friendship. I will accept your two proposals, send you an email for recommendations, and look at your Travel Directory.
Hola Mario y gracias!
Thanks for your feedback. Glad to be of help. I have just sent you an email in reply to your question about flights to Kasese.
By large, this is a better description of Uganda.
As a Ugandan, there are values that i really treasure in the write-up like multi-ethnic community but all people loving!Oh Ugandans are hospitable!
notwithstanding development challenges, this would be a country to live in.
The best climate, best people(HOSPITABLE), with agriculture potentials, only a few developments in infrastructure and medical care lacking, to make the country the icon of Africa and the fulcrum of trading.
Uganda is a great country with enormous potential. Infrastructure improvements desperately needed. We have made some progress but there’s still a long way to go on that front. (I used to work in infrastructure in London so I do see big gaps here).
I had an interesting conversation recently with a Ugandan. He said “why do people like you [bazungu] move to a country like Uganda with all its potholes and corruption?” My answer was that
but that there are so many other positives, that we are ready to put up with a few downsides.
Thank you for dropping by 🙂
How does a muzungu pay for things with their phone if they’re only going to be in Uganda for a month or so and do not have an African bank account? Is there a way to do this?
Buy a local SIM card: MTN and/or Airtel are best. Read more here on “How to make international calls from Uganda, how to get online and how to send money [UPDATED]”